Atlantic Canada Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/atlantic-canada/ Sharing advice, info and inspiration about my happy place: the Great Outdoors. Mon, 08 Dec 2025 20:50:59 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3 https://happiestoutdoors.ca/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/cropped-favicon@3x-32x32.png Atlantic Canada Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/atlantic-canada/ 32 32 Things to Do in Corner Brook, Newfoundland https://dawnoutdoors.com/corner-brook-newfoundland/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/corner-brook-newfoundland/#respond Wed, 29 Oct 2025 00:17:49 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=23688 With a population of about 30,000, Corner Brook is the largest city in Western Newfoundland and the second largest city in the province. It’s an important regional centre, but before I visited, I didn’t really think of it as a tourist destination. To the people of Corner Brook… I apologize. I was wrong. In a …

The post Things to Do in Corner Brook, Newfoundland appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

]]>
With a population of about 30,000, Corner Brook is the largest city in Western Newfoundland and the second largest city in the province. It’s an important regional centre, but before I visited, I didn’t really think of it as a tourist destination.

To the people of Corner Brook… I apologize. I was wrong. In a lot of ways, Corner Brook reminded me of some of my favourite outdoorsy towns in BC like Revelstoke or Port McNeill. It’s a young town with a resource focus, but the reason locals love it so much because of the incredible access to nature just outside of town.

I’ve been to Corner Brook twice, and the first time I visited, I was constantly surprised at how beautiful it was. The Bay of Islands region in particular was stunning. On both trips I did lots of hiking (of course) but I also ate great food.

Since I haven’t seen everything the town has to offer, I also had my husband and some travel friends help me put together this guide to things to do in Corner Brook. It includes:

Planning a trip to Newfoundland? I’ve got a big list of the best things to do Newfoundland plus lots of travel tips for the province.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Thanks so much to Go Western Newfoundland for hosting my friends and I during my two trip to Corner Brooks. All opinions are my own and my husband’s experiences were not hosted. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Map of Corner Brook

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of Corner Brook for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post.

Map of things to do in Corner Brook
I made this custom map of things to do in Corner Brook for you. You can zoom in and explore in Google Maps.

Best Things to Do in Corner Brook

Corner Brook Stream Trail

On my first, I caught up with an old friend from university who has lived in Corner Brook for the last 15 years. She suggested we get coffee and go for a walk. I expected an urban stroll but instead, she led me through the Corner Brook Stream Trails around Glynmill Pond.

The easy forested paths lead around the pond and nearby stream. With its central location, it was really cool to experience nature in the middle of a city.

My second visit to Corner Brook was in the fall. I went on a hike with Robbie, one of the owners of Gros Morne Adventures, who is a lifelong Corner Brooker. He took us on a longer hike along the Corner Brook Stream Trail to see the fall colours.

We started near Crockers Road, then hiked down to a viewpoint above the gorge. From there, we continued downstream to Margaret Bowater Park and Glynmill Pond on the Pipeline Trail. The entire hike is about 6 km long and has incredible views. And if you visit in late September or early October, the autumn colours are spectacular.

The Corner Brook Stream Trail next to Glynmill Pond
The Corner Brook Stream Trail next to Glynmill Pond
Looking down into the gorge along the Corner Brook Stream Trail
Looking down into the gorge on the upper part of the Corner Brook Stream Trail

Railway Society of Newfoundland Museum

On my first trip, my husband Greg spent some time in Corner Brook while I was off hiking. He discovered the Railway Society of Newfoundland Museum. It’s a collection of old locomotives and train cars. For a few dollars, you can go inside and look at the historic artifacts.

The railway played an important part in settling the province’s interior and my husband said it was pretty interesting. However, he might be a bit biased because he had just finished cycling most of the way across the province on the Newfoundland T’Railway, a trail that follows the path of the former railway.

A snowplow engine at the Railway Society of Newfoundland in Corner Brook.
There is so much snow in Newfoundland that the train engines were shaped like snow plows. Photo: Greg Smolyn

Captain Cook Historic Site

The best view in Corner brook is Captain Cook Historic Site at the top of Crow Hill. From the viewing platform, you can gaze down on Corner Brook and across to the Bay of Islands and the Blomidon Mountains.

There are also lots of info boards and a statue of Captain James Cook. Cook spent five years mapping the western coast of Newfoundland and nearby Labrador.

The view is great year-round, but I really enjoyed the fall colours on my most recent visit.

Looking down to Corner Brook from the Captain Cook Viewpoint
Captain Cook Historic Site in June. Photo: Greg Smolyn
View of Corner Brook from Captain Cook Historic Site in Fall
Captain Cook Historic Site in early October

Marble Zip Tours

Marble Mountain Resort is just 10 minutes east of Corner Brook. In the winter, it’s the largest ski resort in Atlantic Canada. But it’s worth visiting year-round to ride their ziplines. Marble Zip Tours has a huge zipline course with nine lines that zigzag across a gorge above and below Steady Brook Falls.

Honestly, these were some of the best ziplines I have done. They were fast, and scary (in a good way) since many of the lines are really far off the ground. The last few lines are also really long.

The fall colours here in early October were also insane. The whole Humber Valley has some of the best fall colours in Newfoundland.

If ziplining isn’t for you, it’s still possible to see some of this scenery. You can hike to Steady Brook Falls, which has viewing platforms. It’s an easy 1 km hike with about 100 m of elevation gain.

Fall colours at Marble Zip Tours in Corner Brook
Gorgeous fall colours at the zip lines

Man in the Mountain

Across the Humber Valley from Marble Mountain, you’ll find the Man in the Mountain. From the bottom, you can gaze up and spot the face in the rocks.

But if you follow the Humber Valley Trail to the top you’ll get an incredible view. It is one of Newfoundland’s best hikes. I hiked it with Glen from Everoutdoor and he explained that the trail is also part of the Trans Canada Trail and the International Appalachian Trail.

The trail is steep, but there are a few viewpoints on the way up. The best views are from Arne’s Lookout at the top. It looks down to the Humber Valley and Corner Brook, and had an incredible display of fall colours in early October.

View of Humber Valley with fall colours from the Man in the Mountain Trail near Corner Brook
The fall colours in the Humber Valley were spectacular

ATVing

I was surprised to see ATVs rolling right through downtown Corner Brook past my hotel. Locals explained that the city is very ATV-friendly and there are several designated ATV routes through the heart of the city that connect with trails.

On my second visit to Corner Brook I went out on an ATV tour with Melissa and Craig from Rugged Edge. We drove past Corner Brook City Hall and the Corner Brook sign, then out of the city to some nearby trails. I even got to drive for a short stretch!

A woman poses with an ATV in front of Corner Brook City Hall
We drove the side-by-side right up to Corner Brook City Hall!

Bay of Islands

Until my most recent visit to Newfoundland, I hadn’t heard of the Bay of Islands. It’s a long inlet with Corner Brook at its head. And it lives up to its name – there are a sprinkling of islands at its mouth.

The region used to be dotted with isolated, water-access-only fishing villages. Today, roads connect villages in the southern and eastern parts of the bay and the villages on the islands are abandoned.

It’s a strikingly beautiful place. The green flanks of the Long Range Mountains, Lewis Hills, Blomidon Mountains, and Blow Me Down Mountains rise up out of the ocean and the rugged coastline is riddled with caves and rocky clefts.

The entire region is part of the aspiring Cabox UNESCO Global Geopark. Named for the highest peak on the island of Newfoundland, the proposed geopark will recognize and protect the exceptional geology of the area. This region is sometimes called the Galapagos of plate tectonics since the rocks here confirmed the theory of plate tectonics in the 1960s and 70s.

It’s worth driving Highway 450 from Corner Brook to Lark Harbour just to admire the views. You can also continue a few minutes further to the end of the pavement at the adorable tiny fishing village of Little Port. The trip takes about an hour. Be sure to stop at Lark Harbour Tilt for coffee and snacks.

Small handmade wooden fishing boats sit on the dock at Little Port, Newfoundland
These traditional wooden fishing boats are handmade locally. It’s worth the detour to Frenchman’s Cove Little Port to see them.

The Saltbox

The Saltbox is a must-stop on any trip to the Bay of Islands. It’s a little restaurant with a great patio right on the bay in Benoit’s Cove. I had incredibly fresh mussels here as part of a boil-up dinner.

But there is another reason to visit – The Saltbox acts as a visitor info centre for the Cabox Geopark and the entire Bay of Islands region. The walls of the building are covered, inside and out, with maps, diagrams and photos about the local area.

I studied physical geography and geology as part of my undergraduate degree, so I loved looking at all the maps. In particular, the map showing how the Appalachian mountains of the eastern USA continue up into Newfoundland was particularly interesting.

Picnic tables on the waterfront patio at the Saltbox in Benoit's Cove, Newfoundland
Picnic tables on the waterfront patio at The Saltbox
A map showing the geology of Newfoundland on the wall at The Saltbox in Benoit's Cove
A map showing the geology of Newfoundland on the wall at The Saltbox

Kayaking in the Bay of Islands

Before the roads were built, everyone travelled through the Bay of Islands by boat. Everoutdoor Adventures offers kayak rentals and tours out of their headquarters at The Saltbox in Benoit’s Cove.

On both of my trips to Corner Brook, I was too busy hiking, so I didn’t get to go out on the water. But I was travelling with my friend Mary Anne from the Let’s Take This Outside podcast on my first visit, and she opted to go on a kayaking tour.

She had a great time on her tour and said it “felt like a peaceful little escape… We kayaked along the southern shore up St. John’s Beach, soaking in the quiet nature. My guide Rob from Everoutdoor Adventures was incredibly knowledgeable on the history and wildlife.”

While I didn’t get to do a tour with Rob, I did chat with him that evening over dinner. Rob is one of the main drivers behind the Cabox Aspiring Geopark. His passion for his home ecosystem in Bay of Islands is contagious.

A woman turns to look at the camera from the front seat of a double kayak. In the background you can see the ocean and an island in the Bay of Islands near Corner Brook, Newfoundland
Kayaking in the Bay of Islands. Photo: Mary Anne Ivison

Cape Blow Me Down

On my fall trip to Corner Brook I hiked Cape Blow Me Down, and it cemented my love for the Bay of Islands area. It’s a steep trail that works its way up to the highest point on the peaks ringing the south side of the bay.

There are great views of the bay and coastline from multiple points on the ascent, but the views from the top are the best.

Be warned, the hike does live up to its name: It can be crazy windy on top. I had to brace myself against the wind to stay standing up! As a local told us later, it’s so windy it could blow the milk out of your tea!

Hikers on the Cape Blow Me Down trail
The incredible view from the Cape Blow Me Down trail

Bottle Cove and the South Head Lighthouse Trail

If you are looking for a spectacular hike, check out the Bottle Cove and South Head Lighthouse Trails near Lark Harbour in the Bay of Islands. Both are on my list of the best hikes in Newfoundland.

If you just want a short walk, wander through the trails at Bottle Cove. The paths lead down to the beach and through the forest to a viewpoint on a windy headland.

But I recommend continuing through the forest and up the hills on the South Head Lighthouse Trail. At the top, there are incredible views of the islands at the mouth of Bay of Islands.

Volunteers from Outer Bay of Islands Enhancement Committee have built and maintained several trails in the area including the Bottle Cove and South Head Lighthouse Trails. I met two volunteers fixing a small bridge on my hike. Please consider making a donation if you hike here.

A hiker stands on a bluff in Bottle Cove
Admiring the views at Bottle Cove.
The view of the ocean from the South Head Lighthouse Trail near Corner Brook, Newfoundland
Looking towards the mouth of Bay of Islands from the South Head Lighthouse Trail

Stephenville and the Port au Port Peninsula

If you’re looking for a good day trip from Corner Brook, I recommend heading south to Stephenville and the Port au Port Peninsula. It’s an interesting (and gorgeous) area with a unique mix of French and Indigenous heritage along with more recent history as a WWII-era American military base.

In my opinion, the main reason to go the Port au Port area is for the scenery. The narrow and rocky isthmus connects the peninsula to the mainland and the roads follow the coastline.

One of the prettiest hikes I did in this area leaves right from the end of the isthmus. The flat and easy Danny’s Walking Trail at The Gravels follows the rocky coastline in and out of coves for a few kilometres.

Another spot I loved was Boutte du Cap Park at the end of the Port au Port Peninsula. It has towering sea cliffs and incredible views.

Other highlights in this area include Our Lady of Mercy Church, Newfoundland’s largest wooden structure, Secret Cove Brewing, and the Fossilized Tree Trail in Stephenville.

It takes about 1 hour to drive from Corner Brook to Stephenville and another hour to get from there to the end of the Port au Port Peninsula. Plan to spend a full day on this road trip.

Danny's Walking Trail on the Port au Port Peninsula
Danny’s Walking Trail on the Port au Port Peninsula
Boutte du Cap on the Port au Port Peninsula
The cliffs at Boutte du Cap on the Port au Port Peninsula

Deer Lake

If you fly to Western Newfoundland, you’ll land at Deer Lake Regional Airport. The nearby town of Deer Lake is pretty small – it has about 5000 residents.

The town is named for the lake upon which it sits, which means it has a pretty good sandy beach. And while the water isn’t tropical, it’s much warmer than the Atlantic Ocean!

If it isn’t beach weather, there are a few other options for things to do in Deer Lake. I spent a pleasant hour walking along the flat and easy Humber River Trail near the airport.

If you want to stay indoors, the Newfoundland Insectarium lets you get up close to butterflies and lots of other insects.

The sandy beach in Deer Lake.
The sandy beach in Deer Lake. Photo: Greg Smolyn.
Fall colours along the Humber River Trail in Deer Lake
Fall colours along the Humber River Trail in Deer Lake
A butterfly at the Newfoundland Insectarium
A butterfly at the Newfoundland Insectarium

Gros Morne National Park

The southern entrance to Gros Morne National Park is about 1 hour north of Corner Brook so I recommend visiting the park too. It’s huge with lots of hikes, historical sites, and viewpoints. For all of my recommendations, check out my guide to Gros Morne National Park.

Two hikers sit on red chairs on the Green Gardens Trail in Gros Morne National Park, one of the best hikes in Newfoundland
Green Gardens Trail, Gros Morne National Park. It’s one of my picks for the best hikes in Newfoundland.

Where to Eat in Corner Brook

Brewed Awakening: My friend took me to Brewed Awakening to pick up coffee and a snack to enjoy on our walk along the Corner Brook Stream Trails. She said it’s one of the best places to get coffee in town. She was right – my latte was great.

Hew and Draw Restaurant/Boomstick Brewing Co.: The Hew and Draw Restaurant and Boomstick Brewing share space at the Hew & Draw Hotel. It has a hip big-city vibe and a menu to match. I stayed at this hotel on both trips so I can vouch for their excellent breakfast. Their dinner menu is also great – try the lobster roll.

The sleek taproom at Boomstick Brewing
The sleek taproom at Boomstick Brewing.

Park West: One of the most upscale restaurants in Corner Brook, but still unpretentious. Look for lots of locally-sourced ingredients. I had an incredible tuna tartare made with tuna that one of the restaurant owners caught!

Newfound Sushi: I didn’t expect to find high-end and innovative sushi in Corner Brook, but Newfound Sushi does it. Their menu calls out which items include locally caught fish. I had an incredible omakase sushi patter that featured smoked arctic char, local tuna, and Atlantic salmon. Their signature rolls are also great.

The Saltbox: Eat next to the water at The Saltbox in beautiful Benoit’s Cove in Bay of Islands. I had an incredible seafood boil-up here including mussels and moose tacos.

Moose tacos at The Saltbox in Benoit's Cove
Moose tacos at The Saltbox in Benoit’s Cove

Harbour Grounds: This cute coffee shop has an incredible view of Corner Brook Harbour and serves up great panini sandwiches.

Sugar and Dice: On my first trip, My husband spent an afternoon working remotely at Sugar and Dice and said it had a great vibe. They serve breakfast, lunch, coffee, and treats. And they have a huge selection of board games you can play while you eat.

The bakery case at Sugar and Dice in Corner Brook
The bakery case at Sugar and Dice in Corner Brook. Photo: Greg Smolyn.

Where to Stay in Corner Brook

Hew and Draw Hotel: I’ve stayed here twice now, and it’s by far the coolest hotel I’ve stayed at anywhere in Newfoundland. It has a modern feel with high ceilings and lots of thoughtful touches like original art and wallpaper from local artists. Hikers will appreciate the free guest laundry station and the hot tubs. I also love that a big restaurant breakfast is included. Check rates.

A hotel room at the Hew and Draw Hotel in Corner Brook
My room at the Hew and Draw Hotel

Glynmill Inn: I walked past the Glynmill Inn on my stroll along the Corner Brook Stream Trails and it looked really cute. The historic Tudor-style building is a designed provincial heritage structure. Check rates.

Corner Brook Basics

How to Get There

Passengers board a plane via a ramp at the Deer Lake Airport
The Deer Lake Airport is small, so you’ll have to go outside to board your plane.

Getting to Corner Brook is fairly easy. It’s a quick 40-minute drive from nearby Deer Lake, which has a regional airport. You can fly directly to Deer Lake from Montreal, Halifax, Toronto, and other Canadian cities. You can also fly to Deer Lake from St. John’s, which is what I did.

It’s also possible to get to Corner Brook by road. You can drive there from St. John’s in about 7 hours. But of course, I recommend turning it into a Newfoundland road trip and stopping at lots of cute towns like Trinity, Bonavista, Twillingate, and Fogo Island.

There is also a bus service from St. John’s that stops in Deer Lake and Corner Brook.

If you’re coming from Nova Scotia, you can take the Marine Atlantic ferry to Port aux Basques. The sailing takes about 7 hours. It’s 2.5 drive from Port aux Basques to Corner Brook. On my first trip to Newfoundland, I took the overnight ferry since I was living in Halifax at the time and had my car with me.

Getting Around

While there are a few things to see in the centre of Corner Brook, you’ll want a car to explore the surrounding area. Deer Lake Airport is the easiest place to rent a car. I use DiscoverCars since it lets me compare prices between car rental companies.

However, it is possible to get around Corner Brook on public transit or taxis. If you want to go hiking outside the city, I recommend booking a tour with Everoutdoor Adventures – they can get you to the trailhead.

How Long to Spend

I recommend spending at least one night in Corner Brook. That will give you enough time to see the main sights. But if you love the outdoors, you’ll want two or three days.

Best Time to Go

I’ve heard that Corner Brook is gorgeous year-round. The winter photos look gorgeous and locals raved to me about skiing and snowshoeing. But most visitors will have the best experience between late May and early-October. That’s when the weather is the nicest and when most tourist businesses are open.

If you want a different experience than most visitors get, consider visiting in fall. It’s perfect hiking weather and you’ll get most of the hikes and attractions to yourself. My guide to fall in Western Newfoundland has all the details.

Weather

A group of hikers bundled up against the wind on a sunny day at Bottle Cove
Even on sunny days, the wind can be cold. We had to bundle up in jackets during our hike in Bottle Cove.

Like the rest of Newfoundland, the western part of the province is never that warm. However, in June, July, and August the average high temperature in Corner Brook is 22°C – a bit higher than other parts of Newfoundland!

The Blow Me Down Mountains are just outside of Corner Brook, which should give you a hint that it’s often windy here. As well, rain storms are common in every month. Bring warm clothing and a rain jacket, just in case.

Final Thoughts

I’ve been to Newfoundland three times now and I feel kind of stupid to have skipped Corner Brook on my first visit. I really fell in love with the Bay of Islands and would love to go back there to do even more hiking. Even though it’s a long, off-trail trek, I want to summit The Cabox – the highest mountain on the island.

I know I haven’t seen everything in the Corner Brook area… yet. If you’ve been, give me some more suggestions for things to do in the comments. Because I’m sure I’ll be back.

READ NEXT:

The post Things to Do in Corner Brook, Newfoundland appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

]]>
https://dawnoutdoors.com/corner-brook-newfoundland/feed/ 0
Things to do on Fogo Island, Newfoundland https://dawnoutdoors.com/fogo-island-newfoundland/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/fogo-island-newfoundland/#respond Fri, 06 Sep 2024 21:30:16 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=22834 Fogo Island is a bit mysterious. It’s a small island off the coast of Newfoundland with a stunning windswept landscape and a tight-knit community. I dreamed of visiting for nearly two decades, and recently, I made it happen. There are so many cool things to do on Fogo Island! If you’ve never heard of Fogo, …

The post Things to do on Fogo Island, Newfoundland appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

]]>
Fogo Island is a bit mysterious. It’s a small island off the coast of Newfoundland with a stunning windswept landscape and a tight-knit community. I dreamed of visiting for nearly two decades, and recently, I made it happen. There are so many cool things to do on Fogo Island!

If you’ve never heard of Fogo, read on. This place is so beautiful and unique. But if you’ve heard of it, it’s likely for one of two reasons. Firstly, it’s featured prominently in the chorus of the Newfoundland folk song “I’se the By'”. (The lyric is “Fogo, Twillingate, Moreton’s Harbour, All around the circle.” I couldn’t stop singing it when I was there.

The other reason is that a social enterprise organization built a new luxury hotel called the Fogo Island Inn. It’s been in the news for attracting celebrity guests like David Letterman, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau.

If you’ve read any recent press about Fogo, they make it sound like the hotel is the main attraction and you must be rich to visit. As a regular person, I wasn’t sure about visiting Fogo. Would there be anything for me to do?

After visiting I can tell you that anyone can visit Fogo and have a great time, even those on a regular person budget! There are lots of guest houses and restaurants catering to independent travellers. And most of the things to do on Fogo Island (like hiking and the museums) are free or cheap!

I’ve put together a complete guide to things to do on Fogo Island, Newfoundland. It includes:

Planning a trip to Newfoundland? I’ve got a big list of the best things to do Newfoundland plus lots of travel tips for the province.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Fogo Island Basics

How to Get to Fogo Island

Fogo Island is located off the north coast of central Newfoundland. Depending on your budget and timeline, there are several ways to get there.

I took the slowest and cheapest route – driving and the ferry. The ferry terminal in Farewell is one hour from Gander, 3.5 hours from Deer Lake, and 4.5 hours from St. John’s, all of which have airports if you’re flying into Newfoundland. If you’re already in Newfoundland on a road trip like I was, the ferry terminal is 1 hour from Twillingate, which is worth visiting before or after Fogo.

You cannot reserve the ferry so it’s best to show up early. Check the ferry schedule for the latest times. On busy summer days, there can be multiple sailing waits. There are two ferries from Farewell to Fogo Island. The direct ferry takes 45 minutes. There is also a ferry that stops on the sleepy Change Islands which takes 1 hour and 15 minutes.

The view from the Fogo Island Ferry. You can see the Farewell Ferry terminal and the other ferry vessel.
The view from the ferry. You can see the Farewell Ferry terminal on mainland Newfoundland on the left. On the right is the another ferry vessel.
A ferry pulls in to the Stag Harbour Ferry Terminal on Fogo Island.
View from the ferry as it arrives at Stag Harbour on Fogo Island. The line-up of cars up the hill on the left is waiting to get on the ferry.

Once on the ferry you must leave your car and go upstairs to the lounge. On a nice day, you can enjoy the view from the outer decks. But if the weather isn’t great, bring a book.

If you’re looking for a fast and expensive way to get to Fogo Island, you can book a charter plane or helicopter from Gander or St. John’s. If you’re staying at the Fogo Island Inn their staff can help you arrange flights.

Getting Around on Fogo Island

Fogo Island isn’t big. But it’s not tiny either. The island has nine villages and is about 25 km long by 14 km wide (16 x 8.7 mi) so you will need a car to get around. If you drove all the roads on the island it would take you about 90 minutes.

Cell Service on Fogo Island

Cell service is pretty spotty on Fogo Island. You won’t get 5G anywhere on the island. There is LTE in most of the towns, but many areas have little to no service. I recommend downloading offline maps before you go. If the visitor centre near the ferry terminal is open, they also have paper maps.

Money and Banking on Fogo

Fogo Island is isolated and doesn’t have a bank. All the businesses we encountered take credit and debit cards. We also saw a few businesses with signs saying that they don’t take cash since they have to go off-island to deposit it and it’s too time-consuming and expensive. Expect to pay with cards on Fogo.

How Long to Spend on Fogo Island

If you get the first ferry to the island and the last one off, it’s possible to do Fogo Island as a day trip. But I recommend spending at least one night on Fogo Island. Doing it as a day trip will be quite rushed and since you can’t reserve the ferry, you’ll have to line up quite early to make sure you don’t miss the last boat.

I spent one night on Fogo and honestly, I wished I had spent a second night. It’s such an interesting place with a vibe that is like nowhere else in Newfoundland. Spending an extra day would have allowed us to do some more hiking and also would have made our time on Fogo a bit more chill. And Fogo is definitely a place to slow down and take it all in.

Best Time to Go to Fogo Island

At the Fogo Island Inn they argue that Fogo has seven seasons: winter (December to February), pack ice (March), spring (April to mid-May), trap berth (mid-May to June), summer (July and August), berry (September to mid-October), and late fall (mid-October to November). If you stay at the Inn, they will organize activities for you at any time of the year.

But if you are travelling independently like I was, the best time to visit is July and August. That’s the time of the year with the best weather. It’s also when you will find most businesses and museums open. June and September can also be good, but will have more variable weather. As well, some businesses and museums will be closed.

Check the opening hours of key attractions. Fogo is small and some businesses don’t open until early June or July and shut in early September. As well, some are closed a few days a week even in the height of summer. Some places have opening hours posted online, but for others, you’ll just have to go check in person.

Fogo Island Weather

Summer might have the best weather on Fogo Island, but this isn’t the tropics! You are still on a windy island in the Atlantic Ocean! Bring a rain jacket and a fleece or puffy jacket for warmth, just in case.

In June, July, and August, temperatures are usually between 10 and 20°C (50 to 68°F). Fogo Island is windy and doesn’t have very many trees, so it can feel much colder than the thermometer might indicate.

Long Studio in Joe Batt's Arm on a sunny day.
The weather on Fogo Island is very changeable. One minute it can be bright and sunny (like here at Long Studio on Joe Batt’s Arm)…
Houses in the fog in Deep Bay on Fogo Island
… and the next minute it can be foggy and cold (like here in Deep Bay).

History of Fogo Island

Like the rest of Newfoundland, Fogo Island is the traditional territory of the Beothuk and Mi’kma’ki.

The name of the island means fire in Portuguese and it likely got its name from the cooking fires of Indigenous people that European fishermen spotted from their boats.

The first European settlers on Fogo were mostly from England, although the village of Tilting is the oldest Irish settlement in North America. The settlers were mostly fishermen who needed a place on land to dry their cod.

Over the years mercantile companies in St. John’s monopolized the cod fishery. The people of Fogo Island fought back by forming the Fishermen’s Protective Union in the early 1900s to sell their fish as a cooperative and gain control of their livelihoods.

In the 1950s and 60s, the newly-formed provincial government of Newfoundland started a resettlement scheme to consolidate far-flung water-access-only fishing villages into larger towns with more reliable road transportation and better community services. The Fogo Islanders developed a collaborative community consultation program called the Fogo Process to decide whether to accept resettlement. In the end, the islanders decided to stay.

When the cod moratorium came into effect in 1992, the economy of Fogo Island was devastated. In 2006 Zita Cobb, a tech millionaire who grew up on Fogo, started the Shorefast Foundation. It’s a social enterprise designed to revitalize Fogo Island’s economy through tourism and the arts. The famous Fogo Island Inn is part of Shorefast.

Today Fogo Island has about 2,100 residents. While locals still fish, today the economy revolves more around tourism, much of which comes in the form of wealthy guests staying at the Fogo Island Inn. However, the island’s isolation means that it doesn’t feel touristy or busy.

Fogo Island Map

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of Fogo Island for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post.

Map of Fogo Island. Click here to zoom in.

Best Things To Do on Fogo Island

Take a Tour of Fogo Island Inn

The Fogo Island Inn is a luxury hotel catering to wealthy guests who often fly in from all over the world. They have a three-night minimum stay and in the summer rooms start at about $3000 per night. It’s all-inclusive, so that price includes gourmet meals and activities like yoga, hiking, and boat tours.

If, like me, the Fogo Island Inn is not in your budget, it’s worth visiting on a tour. It’s an iconic building with stunning architecture and so much attention to detail. The only way for non-guests is to call ahead and arrange for a tour. There are usually two tours and day and they are free. There isn’t any info on their website about tours but if you call them, the front desk can help you out.

The exterior of the Fogo Island Inn seen from the driveway
Walking up the driveway to the Fogo Island Inn. Private vehicles aren’t allowed on the property – you can park and walk in or take their shuttle.

We had a great tour with a local woman who grew up on Fogo in the 1960s and told us all about what Fogo was like when it was an isolated fishing community. She also did a great job of showing us all the ways that the hotel is designed to reflect the local Newfoundland and Fogo Island culture, right down to the designs of the wallpaper and the furniture.

The inside of a hotel room at the Fogo Island Inn.
The inside of a hotel room at the Fogo Island Inn. Our guide told us this was the most basic room type.
A white ship-lap hallway at the Fogo Island Inn
The white ship-lap hallways evoke the interiors of old fishermen’s homes. There are lots of small details all over the hotel like the custom wallpaper and the abstract hand-made quilts (both pictured above).

Since the inn relies on such an upscale clientele (and uses that business model to bring maximum economic benefit to the community), I will say that the tour had a bit of a strange vibe. As tour participants, we weren’t allowed into any area where guests were and the whole thing had a weird, “don’t-make-eye-contact-with-the-rich-people” atomosphere. But the inn was beautiful and the tour was free so I’m glad I went.

Learn About Irish History in Tilting

The village of Tilting at the east end of Fogo Island is one of the oldest Irish settlements in Newfoundland, first settled in the 1780s. Today it is a Newfoundland Registered Heritage District and National Historic Site of Canada with lots of historic buildings.

The locals are proud of their history and it seems like every fifth building has a historical plaque out front with info about its history. Several of the buildings, including the Dwyer Premises and Lane House, are museums with exhibits inside. However, they are only open in July and August so I wasn’t able to see them on my June visit.

One of the red buildings at the Dwyer Premises in Tilting on Fogo Island, Newfoundland
One of the buildings at the Dwyer Premises
Houses in the town of Tilting, Newfoundland
Houses around the harbour in Tilting

I’ve also heard great things about Al’s Walking Tours in Tilting. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to take his tour because it conflicted with the time of our Fogo Island Inn tour. Next time!

Find the Artists’ Studios

Fogo Island Arts supports an artists’ residency program on Fogo Island where artists can come to work at one of four custom-built studios. Stumbling across these studios was one of my favourite parts of my visit to Fogo Island. Each one is strangely beautiful and interplays with the landscape.

Long Studio in Joe Batt's Arm, Newfoundland
Long Studio in Joe Batt’s Arm

The only way to access them is to walk the island’s easy hiking trails. Most studios are a 5 to 15-minute walk from a road. The studios are closed to the public unless the artist invites you inside.

They are off-the-grid structures and each one has a unique architectural style, influenced by the local landscape and Newfoundland culture. Each one was designed by Newfoundland-born architect Todd Saunders.

Bridge Studio in Deep Bay, Newfoundland
Bridge Studio in Deep Bay

You can see some of the art produced at the studios if you visit the Fogo Island Gallery at the Fogo Island Inn. It is only accessible as part of a tour of the Inn.

I managed to visit three of the four studios on my visit. The studios are:

  • Bridge Studio in Deep Bay
  • Squish Studio in Tilting
  • Long Studio in Joe Batt’s Arm
  • Tower Studio in Shoal Bay
Tower Studio in Shoal Bay, Newfoundland
Tower Studio in Shoal Bay

Visit the Towns

There are nine distinct towns spread out along the coastline of Fogo Island, each one with its own charm. Some have more to offer tourists than others, but I still recommend visiting as many as you can since they are all quite picturesque. I’ve got details on each one below.

Stag Harbour

Stag Harbour is just a few minutes from the ferry dock. The Fogo Island Visitor Centre is located at the entrance to Stag Harbour, but it was closed on my early June visit. This sleepy community is spread out along the edges of the long harbour. It’s a good spot for photos, but there aren’t any distinct points of interest here.

Seldom

The towns of Seldom and Little Seldom are located a few coves apart on the southern side of Fogo Island. In the Newfoundland tradition of whimsical town names, Seldom used to be called Seldom-Come-By. There are a few beautiful historic buildings here, including the Fogo Island Marine Interpretation Centre. (More on that in the museums section below.)

The Marine Interpretation Centre in Seldom, Newfoundland.
The Marine Interpretation Centre in Seldom. I laughed at “F.U. Trading”… but it stands for Fishermen’s Union.

Deep Bay

Find Deep Bay on the west side of Fogo Island. The little community hugs the jagged coastline and rocky bluffs tower above. It was foggy when I visited, but that gave the whole area a unique moody vibe. You can follow the Deep Bay Trail, also called the Courting Trail, up to a lookout above the town. You’ll also find an artist’s studio at the end of this trail.

Looking down on the town of Deep Bay on Fogo Island from the Deep Bay Trail
Looking down on Deep Bay from the trail to the viewpoint

Island Harbour

The small community of Island Harbour sits at the end of a dead-end road. It has a good view of the Channel Islands and the ferry traffic. There isn’t much to see here besides picturesque fishing shacks.

Fishermen's homes in Island Harbour on Fogo Island
There’s nothing to see in Island Harbour… but it’s really cute.

Fogo

The town of Fogo straddles a narrow channel between the main part of Fogo Island and Fogo Head. It’s by bar the largest community on the island and is where you’ll find most (but not all) of the shops, restaurants, and other services. It’s worth wandering around to look at churches, museums, and other historic buildings.

St. Andrew's Anglican Church in Fogo, Newfoundland
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church in the heart of the town of Fogo. It dates back to 1915.
A fishing stage in the town of Fogo.
Wander around the town of Fogo and you’ll find the best photo spots.

Be sure to venture over to Back Cove and Brimstone Head for great views. The lookout at the Fogo Battery the start of the Fogo Head Hiking Trail at the end of North Shore Road is also worth a visit. It has a great view of the harbour entrance.

Back cove in the town of Fogo
Looking over to Back Cove from near Brimstone Head.

Shoal Bay

Shoal Bay is situated in the middle of the north shore of Fogo Island. It’s also the location of the only large grocery store, Food Land, on Fogo Island. The large bay has lots of rocky islets near the southern end, which you can see from the Shoal Bay Trail. This boardwalk path meanders through a marshy area and has an artist’s studio at the coastline.

Houses on the rocks in Shoal Bay on Fogo Island
Houses along the water in Shoal Bay

Barr’d Islands

The tiny community of Barr’d Islands seems to blend into the nearby town of Joe Batt’s Arm. However, before the road was built, it would have been quite isolated. Most of the town sits on tiny islands, connected with causeways. It’s the oldest settlement on Fogo and has some beautiful historic buildings.

Joe Batt’s Arm

Joe Batt was a sailor on Captain Cook’s ship. He jumped ship and settled on Fogo Island, giving the bay his name. Today the town is home to the Fogo Island Inn, as well as several museums and art studios. It’s also the starting point for the Joe Batt’s Point Trail which leads to a viewpoint at the Great Auk sculpture and has an artist’s studio part way along.

Houses line the shoreline in Joe Batt's Arm
Houses spread out along both sides of the bay in Joe Batt’s Arm

Tilting

As I said above, Tilting is known for its Irish history. In addition to the historical sites and museums, it also has a few hiking trails and a beautiful beach called Sandy Cove.

Old fishing shacks in Tilting, one of the best things to do on Fogo Island
Tilting is just so scenic!

Hike Up Brimstone Head

This short 1.2 km round-trip hike takes less than an hour but it goes to a spectacular viewpoint on the top of Brimstone Head near the town of Fogo. After doing lots of hikes on Fogo, I thought it had the best effort-to-reward ratio and put it on my list of best hikes in Newfoundland.

The trail follows stairs and boardwalks to the top of a bluff where there is a great view of the ocean and the town of Fogo. You’ll gain 70 m as you climb to the top.

But Brimstone Head has another claim to fame – it is one of the four corners of the Earth according to the Canadian Flat Earth Society. (The society is mostly a joke meant to point out how even in the age of technology, people accept theories without using critical thought.)

A man walks down wooden stairs on the way down from the viewpoint at Brimstone Head on Fogo Island, Newfoundland. The town of Fogo is visible in the distance.
Descending from Brimstone Head. You can see the town of Fogo in the distance.
Panoramic view from the top of Brimstone Head
The panoramic view from the top of Brimstone Head
Sign marking one of the four corners of the flat earth at the top of Brimstone Head on Fogo Island.
Welcome to one of the four corners of the flat earth!

Other Hikes on Fogo Island

Even though I only spent two days on Fogo, I was still able to fit in lots of hikes. For the most point, the trails here are short, easy to moderate, and have great views. You can’t miss the hike up Brimstone Head (above), but I also recommend a few other hikes:

Deep Bay Lookout/Courting Trail

This short trail starts with lots of stairs as it leads up to a viewing platform overlooking the village. Keep going up the stairs and through the heath to a bluff 60 m above sea level. The Bridge Studio sits near a pond near the top. The hike is 1.6 km round-trip.

Panoramic view from the Deep Bay lookout.
The panoramic view from the Deep Bay lookout.

Shoal Bay Trail

The flat Shoal Bay Trail is almost entirely on a narrow boardwalk as it makes its way through a boggy area towards the coast and the Tower Studio. The hike is 1.2 km round-trip.

Boardwalk on the Shoal Bay Trail.
Boardwalk on the Shoal Bay Trail.

Joe Batt’s Point

This trail winds along the east coast of Joe Batt’s Arm out to Joe Batt’s Point. I didn’t have time to hike the whole thing, but I’ve heard there is a huge sculpture of a great auk at the end. Great auks are penguin-like seabirds that were hunted to extinction in 1852. The early part of the trail passes the Long Studio and has a great view of the Fogo Island Inn across the bay. It is a 5 km round-trip hike.

Long Studio on the Joe Batt's Point Trail
Long Studio on the Joe Batt’s Point Trail
Fogo Island Inn seen from the Joe Batt's Point Trail
Looking across to the Fogo Island Inn from the Joe Batt’s Point Trail

More Hikes

I wish I had more time to hike on Fogo. Here are a few hikes that I didn’t get a chance to try:

Fogo Head: A 2.1 km point-to-point head across the top of 103-metre-high Fogo Head. You can also make it into a 3.7 km loop by walking back to the start along North Shore Road. It has great views of the town of Fogo as well as Brimstone Head. There are lots of stairs and steep climbs on this one.

Stairs on the Fogo Head Trail
The start of the Fogo Head Trail. I really wish I had had enough time to hike this one!

Lion’s Den: This 6.3 km loop trail on the east side of Fogo Harbour includes several viewpoints and interpretive signs about former communities. The trail climbs up to the top of a bluff, rambles along the coastline, and travels through marshes on boardwalks.

Turpin’s Trail: There are two parts to this trail – a 9.2 km round-trip eastern section and a 3.1 km round-trip western section. The trail starts in Tilting and leads along the coast past Squish Studio.

Oliver’s Cove: A 4.5 km loop trail in the southern part of Tilting. The trail leads along the coast and to a viewing platform.

Visit the Museums

When I visited Fogo Island in early June, most of the museums were not open for the season or were running on reduced hours, so I wasn’t able to visit any of them. (And if we’re being honest, I was too busy hiking anyway.) Most of these museums are open during the summer but hours can be erratic – just show up and see if they are open.

However, from my research, it looks like there are quite a few museums on the island that could be worth a visit. I’ve already mentioned some of the museums and historical sites in Tilting, but here are a few others:

Fogo Marine Interpretation Centre: This museum in Seldom tells the story of Fogo’s fishing past. It includes exhibits about fishing, the cod liver oil factory, and the unique history of fishing unions on Fogo.

Marconi Wireless Interpretation Centre: Find this museum in the northeastern part of the town of Fogo. It explains the important role of Fogo as a telegraph station.

Old School House Museum: This school house in the town of Fogo dates back to 1888 and has exhibits about Fogo’s history.

Experience Fogo: A museum in the western part of the town of Fogo with collections of old tools and other artifacts that demonstrate traditional life in Fogo.

Brett House Museum: A historical house in Joe Batt’s Arm that preserves a traditional house from the 1870s.

Bleak House Museum: A historical house on North Shore Road in the town of Fogo, Bleak House was the home of the region’s powerful merchants.

Bleak House Museum in Fogo, Newfoundland
Bleak House Museum. It wasn’t open on my visit but you can visit the grounds at any time.

Browse the Galleries

Fogo has a thriving artist community. You can visit several galleries and workshops across the island. Most were not open on my visit and some are open by appointment only. The only one I managed to visit was the Fogo Island Gallery inside the Fogo Island Inn.

Art on display at the Fogo Island Gallery.
The art on display at the Fogo Island Gallery was produced by artists in residence through the Fogo Island Arts program.

Other galleries and artisan workshops include Fogo Island Metalworks and Herring Cove Art Gallery, both in Shoal Bay; Young Studios and Mona’s Quilts in Joe Batts Arm; and Fogo Island Saltfire Pottery in Barr’d Islands.

Where to Eat on Fogo Island

For a small community, Fogo Island has a surprising number of restaurants and cafes. And many of them are really good!

Bangbelly Bistro: Run by ex-chefs from the Fogo Island Inn, this restaurant in the town of Fogo was by far the best restaurant I ate at in Newfoundland. I liked it so much, that I ate there twice. They serve unique, modern takes on traditional Newfoundland food. (The restaurant is named after a classic Newfoundland dessert that includes salt pork. Trust me – it’s delicious despite the inclusion of meat!)

A plate of modern Newfoundland food at Bangbelly in Fogo.
Bangbelly’s modern take on cod with cabbage.

Punch Buggy: Owned by the same people as Bangbelly, this take-out spot in the town of Fogo has great coffee and breakfast sandwiches. They also make pizza.

The exterior of Punch Buggy take-out coffee in Fogo, Newfoundland
They serve so much good food from this tiny take-out window.

Growler’s Ice Cream: This ice cream parlour in Joe Batt’s Arm has a line out of the door on sunny days. It’s run by the Shorefast Foundation.

Rock Bridge Cafe: A cute cafe in Tilting with baked goods, coffee, and soup. They also have lots of historical memorabilia on the walls.

The Storehouse: A restaurant in Joe Batt’s Arm specializing in locally sourced ingredients, run by the Shorefast Foundation. I didn’t have time to eat here, but I’ve heard good things.

Kwang Tung: Proof that hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurants are in every small town in North America, although this is perhaps the most remote example. I didn’t eat here, but I did enjoy the chapter about this restaurant in Chop Suey Nation, Ann Hui’s excellent book about Chinese-Canadian restaurants.

Where to Stay on Fogo Island

From camping to all-inclusive luxury, the accommodation options on Fogo Island run the gamut. The number of lodging options is increasing, but there still aren’t that many choices. Reserve before you come.

Fogo Island Inn: If you want to splurge, this is the place. Impeccable service, incredible architecture, all-inclusive activities – it’s got it all. Check rates.

Old Salt Boxes: There are a few traditional Newfoundland fishermen’s houses that have been converted to vacation rentals. Mary’s Place in Fogo and the Family Cottage in Joe Batt’s Arm are good options. Check rates.

Peg’s Place: This cozy guesthouse in the town of Fogo is a popular choice. Check rates.

Brimstone Head RV Park: Waterfront campground next to Brimstone Head. We stayed here in our tent and loved the views. Check rates.

A tent in in front of the ocean at sunset at Brimstone Head RV Park on Fogo Island.
The sunset view from our campsite was unreal.
Brimstone Head RV Park and the beach in front
Looking down to the Brimstone Head RV Park from the trail to Brimstone Head.

Final Thoughts

Fogo Island is one of my favourite places in Newfoundland and, to be honest, one of the most unique places I have ever visited. I wish I had spent more time there! While it may be a bit of a pain to get to, I think that’s what helps it feel so special.

If you’re planning a trip to Fogo and have questions, let me know in the comments – I’d love to help.

READ NEXT:

The post Things to do on Fogo Island, Newfoundland appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

]]>
https://dawnoutdoors.com/fogo-island-newfoundland/feed/ 0
18 Best Things to Do in St. John’s, Newfoundland https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-in-st-johns-newfoundland/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-in-st-johns-newfoundland/#comments Thu, 11 Jul 2024 20:00:49 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=22988 St. John’s is a lot of things: the oldest city in North America, the capital of Newfoundland, and the easternmost point in Canada. It’s also a vibrant and friendly city that I love so much I’ve visited twice. From seafood to Signal Hill, here are the best things to do in St. John’s, Newfoundland. Even …

The post 18 Best Things to Do in St. John’s, Newfoundland appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

]]>
St. John’s is a lot of things: the oldest city in North America, the capital of Newfoundland, and the easternmost point in Canada. It’s also a vibrant and friendly city that I love so much I’ve visited twice. From seafood to Signal Hill, here are the best things to do in St. John’s, Newfoundland.

Even though a quarter of Newfoundlanders live in St. John’s, it’s not a huge city. It has a population of just 113,000. But thanks to its history as a British colony (it didn’t join Canada until 1949) and its geographic isolation from Canada, Newfoundland has a unique culture that really shines through in St. John’s.

The city has a compact downtown that is easy to explore on foot and feels like history is around every corner – many of the places I recommend in this post are National or Provincial historic sites! Between the historic stone buildings and brightly painted Victorian townhouses, St. John’s is one of the cutest cities I’ve visited.

This guide to things to do in St. John’s, Newfoundland includes:

  • St. John’s Basics: How to get there? How long to spend? Best time to go? What’s the weather like? And lots more.
  • Map of St. John’s that includes all the places I mention in this post.
  • Best things to do in St. John’s: Museums, cute fishing villages, historic sites, viewpoints, hikes, and more.
  • Where to stay in St. John’s: My picks for the best hotels and B&Bs.

Planning a trip to Newfoundland? I’ve got a big list of the best things to do Newfoundland plus lots of travel tips for the province.

Hey there: Thanks so much to Destination St. John’s for hosting a few of my activities during my second trip to St. John’s. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

St. John’s Basics

How to Get to St. John’s

St. John’s is located on the East Coast of Newfoundland. Most visitors fly into St. John’s International Airport, a 15-minute drive from downtown.

You can also get to Newfoundland via Marine Atlantic ferry from Nova Scotia. The ferry terminal is in Argentia, a 1.5-hour drive from St. John’s.

Getting Around in St. John’s

Downtown St. John’s is very compact and walkable, as long as you are okay with hills and stairs. Parking downtown can be hard to find, so it’s best to walk. You can also take a taxi or an Uber.

Depending on your capacity for walking, some of the landmarks close to downtown are also easy to reach on foot. Quidi Vidi, Signal Hill, and the Johnson Geo Centre are 45 minutes to 1 hour walk from downtown. If you’re venturing further out to Cape Spear, Petty Harbour, and Bay Bulls for a whale and puffin tour, you will need a car or to go with a tour.

On my most recent trip, I did a city tour with McCarthy’s Party Tours that included Cape Spear, Petty Harbour, Signal Hill, and Quidi Vidi. The driver shared all kinds of fun facts with us and I think its the best way to see the main sights if you have limited time.

You can also book tours to Bay Bulls for whale and puffin watching that include transportation from St. John’s.

Buildings at Quidi Vidi, Newfoundland
Don’t miss Quidi Vidi. It’s a little bit outside of downtown, but worth visiting.

How Long to Spend in St. John’s

After visiting St. John’s twice, I would recommend you spend at least two or three days in the city. That’s enough time to visit the key sights and museums. If you want to visit some of the attractions outside of the city, such as Cape Spear or whale and puffin tours in Bay Bulls, allow yourself an extra day.

Best Time to Go to St. John’s

Summer in St. John’s is roughly mid-June to early September and is the best time to visit because the weather is the nicest and you’ll be able to see puffins and whales. However, as long as you are prepared for rough weather, you can visit St. John’s at any time of year.

St. John’s Weather

The weather in St. John’s can be all over the place, even in summer. Average summer temperatures are between 10 and 20°C. Temperatures the rest of the year are usually between -9 and 16°C. June, July and August are the driest months.

Although it is often gorgeously sunny here, it also rains frequently, especially in the spring, fall, and winter. Fog and wind are also common, making it feel much cooler than it is. Pack a rain jacket and a warm jacket like a fleece or lightweight puffy jacket, just in case.

Newfoundland Time Zone

You might be surprised to hear that Newfoundland has its own time zone. And you might not believe me if I tell you that is 30 minutes ahead of Atlantic time (1.5 hours ahead of Eastern time), but it’s true!

When time zones were established, Newfoundland was its own Dominion (it hadn’t joined Canada yet), so they got to choose, and that’s what they picked.

St. John’s Map

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of St. John’s for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post.

Best Things To Do in St. John’s

St. John’s is a small city, so it’s easy to see it in a few days. I’ve listed my picks for the best things to do below starting with things in the downtown core and branching out from there. Most things are with walking distance and the farthest attration is a 30 minute drive away.

Admire the Houses on Jelly Bean Row

Jelly Bean Row refers to the brightly coloured Victorian row houses in St. John’s. An urban legend says that the houses were painted rainbow colours to make it easier for fishermen to find them in the fog.

However, that’s not true – before the 1960s and 70s, most houses in St. John’s were painted white because that was the cheapest colour! It seems that the bright colours were part of a downtown revitalization scheme. In any case, they are gorgeous.

There is no specific Jelly Bean Row street – instead, you’ll need to wander around downtown admiring the houses. However, you can find some of the best ones on any of the streets uphill from Duckworth Street. In particular, I recommend checking out Gower Street, Bannerman Street, Colonial Street, Kings Road and Victoria Street.

Colourful buildings on Jellybean Row in St. John's
Colourful Jellybean Row houses

Stroll Down Water Street

Water Street is the heart of St. John’s. Part of the street is a National Historic Site of Canada to recognize the city’s mercantile history in the mid-19th century. Today you can stroll down Water Street and admire the historic buildings alongside modern structures.

Water Street is also the best place to shop for cheesy souvenirs or browse boutiques selling local and artisanal goods. I recommend Newfoundland Weavery for handmade goods, and The Bee’s Knees for sustainable products.

You will also find most of St. John’s restaurants along Water Street. For laid-back vibes, I recommend Yellowbelly Brewery, a microbrewery with good pub food. If you want coffee and a sandwich, Rocket Bakery is excellent. Adelaide Oyster House has a hip atmosphere, fresh oysters, and great fusion small plates. And while I didn’t have time to visit, my friend raved about the foodie-focused fine dining at Terre.

The hip interior of Adelaide's Oyster House in St. John's
The bar at Adelaide’s Oyster House on Water Street

Get Screeched in on George Street

George Street is the center of St. John’s nightlife. It’s tiny, at just two blocks long, but it’s dense – every single business is a bar and as the night wears on, the revelry overflows onto the street.

Getting “screeched in” is a Newfoundland tradition meant to welcome non-Newfoundlanders, known as “Come From Aways” in Newfoundland English. The best place to get screeched in is the bars of George Street. Christian’s Pub is particularly popular.

Screech is the Newfoundland name for high-alcohol spirits, usually dark rum. The “screeching in” process has several steps. Fist, you kiss a codfish (it’s usually frozen), and then take a shot of screech. There’s also a short recitation about loving Newfoundland. In some places, you finish by eating a cube of bologna, nicknamed Newfoundland steak. When you’re finished, you’ll get a souvenir certificate.

It’s a silly tradition and is mostly for tourists, but it’s still lots of fun. I got screeched in on my first trip to Newfoundland and I have to say that kissing the cod isn’t as gross as the Sourtoe Cocktail, which I did in Dawson City Yukon, a few years later.

Walk Along the Harbour

St. John’s is a port city. Most of the island’s goods are shipped through here and it’s also a hub for ships supplying the offshore oil and gas industry. It’s worth a walk along the harbourfront to check out the action. If you’re curious about where the ships are going, you can look them up on Vessel Finder.

Due to security, you can’t get up close to the ships. But you can walk along Harbour Drive and check out the huge ships through the railing. Or head to Harbourside Park on Water Street. It’s the only place you get all the way down to the water and is my favourite place to look out at the harbour. It also has great statues of a Newfoundland dog and a Labrador retriever dog.

A ship moored in St. John's Harbour, as seen from Harbourside Park.
The view from Harbourside Park. On the left is one of the huge tugs that supplies the oil rigs with supplies moored in the harbour.

Admire the Historic Architecture

St. Johns is one of the oldest settler-founded cities in North America. It was seasonally settled in 1497 and formally established in 1583. While most of the city’s buildings aren’t quite that old, there are lots of notable historic structures.

Finished in 1855, Basilica of St. John the Baptist sits on a hill high above the city on Military Road near The Rooms Museum. It is a National Historic Site of Canada and is built in the Romanesque style. It is the second-largest church in Canada.

The Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist is also worth a visit. Located on Gower Street, it dates back to 1850 and has Gothic Revival architecture.

The St. John’s Courthouse on Water Street is also a National Historic Site of Canada. Finished in 1904, the stone building was designed in the Romanesque Revival style

You can also stroll around Government House, which sits in the middle of sprawling grounds and gardens on Military Road. It is the home of the Lieutenant Government of Newfoundland.

Historic Government House in St. John's seen from its expansive grounds
The grounds at Government House are gorgeous.

Visit the Newman Wine Vaults

The Newman Wine Vaults is a provincial historic site that’s worth a visit. The legend is that a Portuguese ship loaded with port ended up overwintering in St. John’s in the late 1600s. The port tasted better after aging in Newfoundland, so Newman and Company of England built stone wine vaults and aged their port in Newfoundland for nearly 300 years.

My husband visited the wine vaults during our last trip to Newfoundland while I was at a conference. He said the guided tour was really interesting and he loved the free sample of port at the end.

Barrels of port in the underground Newman Wine Vaults
Going underground in the Newman Wine Vaults. Photo: Greg Smolyn.

Learn About Newfoundland’s History at the Colonial Building

Dating back to 1850, the Colonial Building housed the colonial government before Newfoundland joined Canada. Today, it is a provincial historic site that you can visit on a guided tour. A recent renovation has restored some of the rooms to their 1880s finishes including some elaborate ceiling frescos.

This is another spot that my husband visited without me while I was at a conference. He came back with all kinds of facts about the history of Newfoundland that I didn’t know. As Canadians, our education about Newfoundland starts in 1949 when it voted to join Canada. But they have a long and interesting history as a British Colony and then as a Dominion that you can learn about here.

The exterior of the Colonial Building in Newfoundland
The exterior of the Colonial Building. Photo: Greg Smolyn.

Enjoy Dinner and a Show at Spirit of Newfoundland

I’m not usually a dinner-and-a-show kind of gal when I’m travelling. But on my most recent visit to St. John’s, I attended a conference where Spirit of Newfoundland provided the entertainment on two of the nights and it was great.

Music is such a huge part of Newfoundland’s culture, and this is a great way to experience it. Spirit of Newfoundland has several different productions, each with a live band, skits, singers, and a three-course dinner. You’ll learn a bit about Newfoundland and laugh a lot.

Wander Through The Rooms Museum

The Rooms is the largest museum and art gallery in Newfoundland. The building is designed to look like a giant version of the fishing shacks that traditionally dotted Newfoundland’s shoreline. These shacks were known as fishing rooms, which explains the museum’s name.

I made time to visit The Rooms on both of my visits to Newfoundland, and I really enjoyed it. The exhibits about Newfoundland’s history are well done. As I mentioned, as a Western Canadian, I don’t know that much about Newfoundland and it was fascinating to discover the way their colonial and fishing history has shaped their culture.

The museum also has several art galleries showcasing the works of Newfoundland artists. I enjoyed these spaces way more than I thought. Altocumulus by Max Streicher was particularly cool – it’s a billowing sculpture of clouds that you can walk under.

One of the best reasons to visit The Rooms is the incredible view from the terraces on the fourth floor. Be sure to visit both the north and south terraces since they have different perspectives on the city.

Air-filled cloud sculptures at The Rooms Museum
I loved the Altocumulus sculptures at The Rooms.
View of the city from the terrace at The Rooms
The view of downtown St. John’s from the north terrace at The Rooms.

Explore the Battery Neighbourhood

The Battery is one of St. John’s most interesting neighbourhoods. (In Newfoundland English it’s pronounced “batt-ree” not “bat-ter-ee”.) The entire neighbourhood clings to the side of Signal Hill on the side of a cliff.

Historically this area was an important part of the city’s defense. There were gun emplacements here and at one time, a defensive chain stretched 174 meters across the harbour’s mouth.

I loved wandering between the colourful houses, taking photos, and enjoying the view of the harbour below. It’s also the start of the North Head Trail to Signal Hill. (More on that hike below.) Stop at The Battery Cafe for coffee and a muffin. They also have live music a few nights a week.

Colourful houses cling to the side of a cliff in the The Battery neighbourhood in St. John's
The colourful houses lining the cliff in the Battery neighbourhood.

Enjoy the View at Signal Hill

Signal Hill stands out from most places in St. John’s. The 167-meter-tall hill has a commanding view of downtown St. John’s, the harbour, the narrows, and the wild Atlantic Ocean beyond. Historically it was strategically important for the defense of the city.

Most of the hill is a Canadian National Historic Site and there are info boards along the various paths that explain the history of the hill. The stone Cabot Tower on top of the Hill also has some good interpretive displays. Until 1958, the flag poles on the top of the tower were used to communicate with ships offshore by raising and lowering different coded flags.

While the history of Signal Hill is interesting, the reason most people visit is the incredible view. Be sure to walk the paths around the summit and down to the Queen’s Battery – they all have different views.

View of downtown St. John's from Signal Hill
View of downtown from the top of Signal Hill.

Hike the North Head Trail

The North Head Trail takes you up and around Signal Hill. The hike starts right from downtown St. John’s, in the Battery neighbourhood. From there, you hike through the narrows and then start your ascent of Signal Hill on several sets of wooden stairs.

There are lots of incredible viewpoints along the way and even a set of iconic Parks Canada red chairs to take a break at. I loved this trail and it made my list of the best hikes in Newfoundland.

The North Head Trail is actually part of two much longer trail systems. It sits roughly in the middle of the 270-kilometre-long East Coast Trail that follows the East Coast of the Avalon Peninsula. The North Head Trail is also part of the Trans Canada Trail, which meanders 28,000 km across Canada.

Stairs along the North Head Trail at Signal Hill
Stairs along the cliff through the narrows on the North Head Trail

Go Underground at the Johnson Geo Centre

On my first visit to Newfoundland, we visited the Johnson Geo Centre. Most the building is underground, carved into the rocks of Signal Hill. The exhibits explain Newfoundland’s geology (including why it is nicknamed “The Rock”) along with info about the solar system, the formation of the earth, and Newfoundland’s oil and gas industry.

The exterior of the Johnson Geo Centre seen from across a pond.
The exterior of the Johnson Geo Centre. Most of it is underground!

Visit Quidi Vidi Village

Pronounced “kiddy viddy” in Newfoundland English, Quidi Vidi is an old fishing village right next to downtown St. John’s. It’s an easy 45-minute walk along Quidi Vidi Lake to get there. You can also take a taxi or bus route 15 or visit as part of a city tour. There isn’t much parking, so it’s best to go car-free.

Stroll along the water to admire the picturesque old fishing shacks, many of which are now summer cottages. Go for a beer at Quidi Vidi Brewery, a craft brewery inside a former fish plant. Shop at the Quidi Vidi Village Artisan Studios. Or go for a high-end dinner at The Mallard Cottage, a historic home that is now one of Canada’s best restaurants.

Colourful buildings around a small harbour at Quidi Vidi, Newfoundland
Colourful buildings at Quidi Vidi

Stand on the Eastern-Most Point in Canada at Cape Spear

Cape Spear is the easternmost point in Canada and North America (excluding Greenland). It’s a 20-minute drive from downtown St. John’s. There is no public transport so you’ll need to drive yourself or take a tour to get there.

There are several viewpoints where you can look out at the ocean or down the rocky coast. It’s also worth following the footpaths around the site to see the view from different angles.

The lighthouse at Cape Spear is the oldest surviving lighthouse in Canada and is a National Historic Site of Canada. You can take a guided tour to learn about what life for the lighthouse keepers would have been like. As well, it was an important defensive gun battery during World War II and you can still walk through the underground bunkers.

The easternmost point in North America at Cape Spear, Newfoundland

The viewpoint at Cape Spear.

Explore an Old Fishing Village at Petty Harbour

The tiny (and adorable) village of Petty Harbour is just down the road from Cape Spear, so it makes sense to visit both at once. Spend a few minutes wandering along the waterfront where you can watch lobster fishermen unload their catch.

Get a meal at Chafe’s Landing restaurant. It’s one of the best places to eat freshly caught seafood (especially fish and chips or lobster rolls) in the St. John’s area.

The picturesque fishing village of Petty Harbour, Newfoundland
The waterfront at Petty Harbour

Take a Whale and Puffin Tour in Bay Bulls

Bay Bulls is an easy 30-minute drive south of downtown. It’s the closest place to St. John’s to take boat tours in Witless Bay Ecological Reserve where you can spot whales, puffins, and lots of other seabirds.

Boat tours run several times a day between May and September and some include transportation from St. John’s. We did this tour on our first trip to Newfoundland and that’s when I fell in love with puffins. (It was my first time seeing them.)

You will see puffins or other seabirds on all tours. But of course, but whale sightings aren’t guaranteed. The best time to see whales is July and August. And if you visit in the spring and early summer, you might also see icebergs.

Pro tip: If you’re prone to motion sickness, bring some Dramamine (sold under the brand name Gravol in Canada).

Eat Seafood

Newfoundland exists because of the cod fishery. Cod (and to a lesser extent lobster) are king here, and you’ll be missing out if you don’t try some. You can get cod any time of year, but lobster is only in season between April and July.

Many Newfoundlanders don’t really like fish that much, and aren’t into lobster since historically it was a lower-class food. But they do love fish and chips. There is a fierce debate about where to get the best fish and chips in St. John’s. But most people will agree that either the Duke of Duckworth, Ches’ Famous Fish and Chips or Leo’s Restaurant is the best.

If you’re looking for a classic poached lobster dinner, head to the St. John’s Fish Exchange Kitchen and Wet Bar or Saltwater Restaurant, both on Water Street.

It’s a bit out of town, but Chafe’s Landing restaurant is known for their lobster rolls. (That’s a lobster salad sandwich served on a dinner roll.)

You’ll also find great seafood on the menu at pretty much any restaurant in the city. Locally grown mussels and scallops are great, either on their own, in pasta, or in seafood chowder. If you’re feeling a little bit adventurous, try the deep-fried cod tongues. They have a bit of a calamari vibe.

A "Lobsters for sale" sign at the docks in Petty Harbour
If you want the freshest seafood, buy it yourself from fishermen in Petty Harbour. Or eat at nearby Chafe’s Restaurant for the shortest sea-to-plate experience.

Where to Stay in St. John’s

St. John’s has tons of accommodation options from huge international chains to boutique hotels to quaint vacation rentals. Here are a few places I recommend:

Alt Hotel: With modern rooms (many with great views) and a great location on Water Street, Alt Hotel is the coolest hotel in St. John’s. Check rates.

Murray Premises: Set inside a collection of historic mercantile buildings in the heart of downtown, some rooms at the Murray Premises have original details like exposed brick and wooden beams. Check rates.

Jellybean Row Townhouse: Many of the colourful townhouses on Jellybean Row are Airbnb vacation rental apartments with full kitchens and hang-out spaces. Check rates.

Jelly bean row houses in St. John's
Many of the Jellybean Row houses are Airbnbs!

Final Thoughts

If you’re visiting Newfoundland, devote a few days to St. John’s. It’s a small city, but it has so much history. I don’t always love spending time in cities when I travel, but I love this one. (Perhaps it’s because you can hike right from downtown?)

If you’ve got questions about the best things to do in St. John’s ask in the comments. I’d love to help.

READ NEXT:

The post 18 Best Things to Do in St. John’s, Newfoundland appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

]]>
https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-in-st-johns-newfoundland/feed/ 2