It’s easy to hear about wildfires on the news and freak out. While wildfires are a real danger and should be taken seriously, with a bit of planning, you can avoid hiking near dangerous wildfires and smoke.

Thankfully, I’ve never encountered a wildfire on a hike. But recently, I talked to a fellow hiker who had to evacuate from the Skyline Trail during the 2024 Jasper National Park wildfires. Between my research and her boots-on-the-ground experience, I’ve put together lots of resources for hiking in wildfire season. This post includes:

• Tips on where to check wildfire and smoke conditions before you go
• How to make a safe hiking plan including trail choice and emergency preparedness
• What to do if there is a wildfire nearby – tips for how to escape and how to shelter in place
• How to prevent wildfires – Most of this is common sense, but I bet you could still learn some things.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Check Conditions Before You Go

Check conditions before you go so you know what to expect. The sources you check will depend on where you plan to hike, but in general, they fall into a few categories. I’ve got details on each below.

State and Provincial Wildfire Agencies

Look up the local state or provincial wildfire service to see if there are any fires in the area you plan to hike. Most agencies have an official website that lists wildfires, often with a map, fire bans and other resources to help you decide if it’s safe to go on your trip. Many also have official social media accounts on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter (now X) to announce breaking news.

I like to look at these official map sources to figure out how big the fires are, and what trails or roads they have burnt or threaten to burn. Looking at where the fire actually is helps me plan.

Some official maps don’t have enough detail for hikers, so I often use Gaia GPS. It has two helpful layers you can add. The “Wildfires (Current)” layer pulls data from official government sources and the “Wildfires (Satellite Detection)” shows a matrix of dots over an area where satellites have detected heat.

This lets me overlay the fire maps on top of the trails and roads in the area I plan to hike. I’ve also heard that CalTopo has a good “Fire Activity Layer”.

State and Provincial Wildfire Agencies I use often:

• British Columbia Wildfire Service, especially their Wildfire Situation Map.
• Alberta Wildfire Status website and Wildfire Status Dashboard
• InciWeb Wildfire Map shows the status of major wildfires across the U.S.

Park and Trail Websites

If there are trail closures or alerts, you’ll find them on official park and trail websites. Sometimes they are on the home page, but in other cases, you’ll need to look for current conditions pages or things marked “advisories” or “important bulletins”. You can also check their official social media pages.

If you don’t see the info you need on a park website, you can try calling them. This works best with National Parks and National Forests – provincial and state parks often do not have the resources to have phone lines. If you call, try to ask for the backcountry ranger office. People answering general info lines usually are unfamiliar with backcountry trails and are not helpful.

Don’t rely on All Trails, Google Maps, or other apps. However, the info in these places is often crowd-sourced and might not be officially verified. So a trail that is listed as open on All Trails or Google Maps might actually have a fire nearby.

Park and Trail Websites I use often:

Government Transportation or Highway Websites

In wildfire season, roads are often closed in dangerous areas. Check your travel route to the trailhead to make sure it is open. If your trip is multi-day, be careful if the road is open now but if a fire is close – the road might close while you are backpacking, trapping you.

Transportation websites I use often:

• Drive BC
• 511 Alberta
• Washington State DOT

Weather Forecasts

There might not be a fire near where you are hiking, but the upcoming weather could change wildfire conditions. Check the weather forecast to see if thunderstorms are on the horizon. I also check to see if the forecast calls for hot, dry weather with high winds since that’s a situation where fires could spread quickly.

My guide to weather apps for hiking has details on where to find the best weather forecasts.

Air Quality Reports and Smoke Forecasts

Even if there isn’t a fire nearby, hiking in smoke is really bad for your health. It’s also really unpleasant. In recent years huge fires in northern Canada have blown smoke as far away as the Eastern United States, so wildfire smoke can affect hikers anywhere.

I use FireSmoke to check the smoke forecast. It uses computer models to predict the ways that fire growth and winds will push smoke around. In my experience, it is usually pretty accurate.

It’s also important to check air quality reports. Many states, including Washington, have an air quality map, sometimes with a smoke forecast. There is also a national U.S. air quality report. Canada has a local air quality index, but it only covers major cities and towns.

I also like PurpleAir’s Real-time Map. It uses citizen science air quality monitoring stations so it has data from smaller towns. (We have a Purple Air reporting station at our house.)

Make a Safe Hiking Plan

After you’ve checked to see where the fires are and what the smoke is doing, it’s time to make a plan for your hike.

Choose Your Trail Carefully

Checking conditions to see if fires are nearby is just one way to stay safe while hiking in wildfire season. Look at the trail you plan to hike. Does it head into forest fire danger terrain like thick dry brush or ridge tops? (More on danger zones in the Shelter In Place section below.) Is it a dead-end with no escape routes if a fire crosses the trail?

In the months/weeks/days leading up to your trip it’s also important to have a flexible mindset and a backup plan. If fire and smoke conditions aren’t right when it’s time to leave for your hike, switch to your backup plan or postpone your trip.

After you’ve chosen your trail, make sure you familiarize yourself with other trails in the area in case you need to hike out another way. Also look for places where you would be safe in case of wildfire such as lakes, meadows, or marshy areas. (More on these in Shelter in Place below.)

Bring a paper map or extra batteries for your GPS so that you can navigate on the fly in an emergency.

Inform Your Emergency Contact

Make sure you have an emergency contact who knows your trip plan including what trail you plan to hike and when you expect to be back. That way if you don’t return as scheduled, they can call Search and Rescue to look for you.

Your emergency contact should also be proactive about finding out fire info for you. If you have to contact them during an emergency, they can tell you which directions are safe(r) to hike to get away from a fire.

Register Your Hike

In some areas, wilderness permits or backpacking reservations are required. In other areas, there are optional trailhead registries. They often have a spot where you can fill out emergency contact information. Make sure your emergency contact person knows where you are going and has your trip plan.

In the devastating 2024 fires in Jasper National Park, rangers called the emergency contacts of backpackers to see if they had evacuated on their own and to get a handle on how many people still needed help in the backcountry.

Write Down Key Phone Numbers

Some parks have an emergency phone number you can call if you need help or info. Having this number could be crucial in an emergency. If the park doesn’t have an emergency number, having the phone number for the park info centre or backcountry ranger office is also great.

When I talked talked to Carol May, a hiker who evacuated from the Skyline Trail during the 2024 Jasper National Park fires, she said when they got to the trailhead and had cell service, they didn’t know which way was safe to drive. She says she wished the park had a dedicated emergency phone number to call like others she had visited. Instead, they flagged down a passing ranger on the road who gave them info.

Pack the 10 Essentials

You already bring the 10 essentials on every hike, right? Right?? These are key items you should pack for every trip in case you get lost or have an emergency situation. Your version of the 10 essentials doesn’t have to be heavy, bulky, or expensive – mine isn’t.

My guide to the 10 essentials explains each of the 10 items, plus one more I always carry. I also have specific gear recommendations.

Carry a Satellite Messenger

There is often no cell service on hiking trails. A satellite messenger could be the difference between life and death. I carry a Garmin inReach Mini 2 so I can check in with my emergency contact each night to let them know I am safe. They can also message me if there is any new fire info I need to know.

In the past, I’ve turned my inReach off each night to save battery. Now I’ve realized that I might want to leave my inReach off overnight in case I need to receive an emergency message. (But I’ll reduce the tracking frequency and turn off Bluetooth temporarily to save battery.)

Newer iPhones (iPhone 14 or later) have texting via satellite. I’ve tried it in the backcountry and it seems to work pretty well. However, my iPhone battery drains quickly and the inReach lasts for days, so I’m going to continue to bring my inReach on long trips.

During the Jasper wildfires, park rangers contacted hikers’ emergency contacts. Those people then messaged the hikers on satellite messengers. The hikers who received messages were crucial to spreading the word in campgrounds and on trails that they needed to evacuate.

Carry a Battery Charger

In an emergency you are going to want a fully charged phone so you can call for help. Even if you don’t have cell service on the trail, once you get back to the trailhead, you are going to need a phone to figure out which way to drive. It’s also good to have a way to charge your satellite messenger and headlamp.

Carol told me she was glad her phone was charged because during her evacuation, they stopped at a cafe near the trailhead at 4:30 am. It was closed, but they were able to access the wifi from outside to look up info on the fires online and decide whether it was safe to keep driving to continue their evacuation.

Bring a Reliable Headlamp

I often pack an ultralight headlamp on backpacking trips because I typically only need it to light the way to the outhouse in the middle of the night. I’m not worried about how long the battery will last or how charged it is.

But Carol recommends bringing a fully charged headlamp with a long battery life. She was glad her headlamp was charged when she had to evacuate at 2 am. She said charged headlamps were “absolutely critical if evacuating in the middle of the night. We needed them for hours.” She told me that other hikers they met were having trouble with theirs and she was lucky that hers was charged.

In a wildfire evacuation, you may have to hike in the dark for hours, so a fully charged headlamp with a long battery life could be crucial.

Pack a Mask

An N95 mask weighs a few grams and could make a huge difference if you end up hiking in thick smoke. Thanks to the pandemic, they are easy to source at pharmacies or online. In a pinch, putting a bandana or buff over your nose and mouth can also help.

What To Do If There is a Wildfire Nearby

If you’ve done your research before a hike, you shouldn’t be hiking anywhere near an active fire. However, fires can start quickly, so a new fire could pop up while you are on the trail.

Wildfires Spread Quickly

Wildfires can spread incredibly quickly. According to sources, fires often spread at up to 10 km/6 miles per hour. They can move even faster if they are going uphill or if there are strong winds. You can’t outrun most wildfires.

As well, large fires make their own weather with high winds that spread the fire faster. Fires can also cause pyro-cumulonibmus clouds, which create thunderstorms, and therefore more fires from lightning strikes. For an informative (but terrifying) read, I recommend the book Fire Weather by John Vaillant about the devastating wildfires in 2016 in Fort McMurray, Alberta.

That means that if you spot a fire, you need to get away from it fast!

Which Way to Run?

Try to figure out where the wildfire is, then get away from it. That will be easy if there is smoke (or flames) in the distance. But if you find yourself surrounded by smoke, it’s a bit trickier – try to see if you can see which way the smoke is flowing.

Since fires travel uphill faster than downhill, avoid the tops of ridges and peaks. If there is smoke in the distance, assess which way the wind is blowing. If it is blowing towards you, the fire will be coming towards you too. Travel over recently burned land if you can. Just watch for falling trees and hot ash, which can melt your shoes.

Use your GPS and paper maps to assess the trails near you and decide which ones will take you to safety away from the fire.

Take enough supplies with you to stay safe. If it seems like speed is essential, you might want to ditch some gear so you can travel faster. Be sure to take the 10 essentials including food, water, water filtration, first aid supplies, a jacket, your phone, your satellite messenger, and and some form of shelter.

During Carol’s evacuation she says she wasn’t sure whether to leave her pack. “We took a few minutes to filter water and get snacks ready because we really didn’t know what the next hours or days would bring,” she said. She hiked the 12 km trail out to the parking lot in about 2 hours, but says some inexperienced hikers took substantially longer. Having the snacks and water definitely helped.

Get Help

If you have a cell service or are carrying a satellite messenger, use it. You can message your emergency contact if the fire looks like it is far away and have them look up info about the fire to help you decide how to proceed.

If the fire hasn’t been reported yet, report it by calling 911. You will need info about where you are and where you think the fire is. If possible, give the names of trails and geographic landmarks nearby. GPS coordinates are ideal.

If the fire is close, skip right to pressing the SOS button or calling 911 for help. You can also try signalling to passing planes and helicopters – they will be looking for hikers in the backcountry. This is also a good technique if you have been in contact with Search and Rescue and they are looking for you.

Direct a signal mirror or flashing headlamp at the aircraft. Move to an open area and use bright colours (especially red and orange) to attract attention. You can spread out your tent fly, tarp, or several bright jackets to attract attention.

I hate to say this because I hope it’s obvious, but don’t start a signal fire to help rescuers find you. You might just start another wildfire by accident.

Work Together With Other Hikers

Group up with other hikers to share information and supplies. During the 2024 Jasper National Park wildfires, hikers with satellite messengers alerted other hikers that the fire was getting closer (even though in some campgrounds it wasn’t smokey yet) and told them they had to evacuate even though it was 2 a.m.

If possible, try to keep track of how many hikers are with you and their names. You can give this info to park rangers after you evacuate. That park staff will know which hikers evacuated and which ones they still need to locate.

Shelter in Place

If the fire is close, you will need to shelter in place. In general, get low to the ground to avoid the smoke. You can dig a hole in the dirt for your face. Hide behind something big (like a rock) that won’t catch fire.

Here are some tips on good places to shelter versus bad places to shelter.

Good Places to Shelter:

• Places with less vegetation like rock fields, swampy areas, and meadows – but avoid these areas if they are next to a place with dense vegetation
• Flat areas
• Lakes – you can get into the water and hide behind rocks or islands. Murky water is better than clear water because it is better at blocking radiant heat.

Bad Places to Shelter:

• Thick forests
• Steep areas (because fire travels uphill)
• Chutes, ravines, and saddles (low spots on a ridge) – these are natural travel paths for fire
• Ridge tops (because fire travels uphill and you won’t have an escape route)

How to Prevent Wildfires

Unfortunately, humans cause many wildfires – in BC about 40% of wildfires are human caused. Most of the time, people don’t mean to start a fire. With a bit of knowledge and preparation, you can avoid being part of this statistic.

Skip the Campfire

With frequent fire bans, I rarely have a campfire anymore. I know many people feel like they have to have a campfire when camping to have the full experience, but if you skip it, you might find that you’re not missing out on much.

On hot summer days, campfires aren’t needed for warmth. Compared to a camp stove, campfires are unreliable for cooking (everything comes out charred or raw when I try it!). The smoke gets into everything – your clothing, hair, and eyes – and the stink lingers. And spending tons of time chopping firewood and tending the fire takes away from time you could be hiking, swimming, or relaxing.

Instead of campfire, I like to bring a simple battery powered lantern to gather around. Card games or portable board games can be fun too. And you can make s’mores in a skillet on your campstove.

If you must have a campfire-like experience, invest in a propane fire pit. They allowed during fire bans in most jurisdictions are are much easier to use and safer than a campfire.

Check for Fire Bans

Before you have a campfire, check to see if it is allowed. Many provinces and states have websites that show where campfires are allowed and not allowed. However, you should also check park and local municipality websites since some areas have stricter regulations about fires than the province or state. For example, Garibaldi Provincial Park, near where I live, bans fires year round since the park has a sensitive alpine ecosystem.

State and Provincial Fire Ban resources I use often:

• BC Fire Prohibitions and Restrictions
• Albert Fire Bans
• Washington Burn Restrictions

Have a Safe Campfire

If you do have a campfire, check the weather first. Avoid having a campfire on windy days when embers can blow into grass, trees, or buildings and ignite them.

Keep your campfire small. Small campfires are less likely to get out of control.

Use a metal fire ring to keep your fire contained. If you build your fire on bare ground, you can ignite underground root systems, which can spread the fire to the surrounding trees and bushes. Underground fires can smoulder for days or weeks, emerging into flames much later.

Only build a campfire if there is a reliable water source nearby. If your fire gets out of control, you will need a lot of water to put it out. The water in your water bottle won’t be enough. You’ll need running water or a nearby lake or stream to put it out.

Make sure your fire is out. Many people let their fire burn out and think that is good enough. It isn’t. Coals and embers can ignite hours later. When you’re done with your fire, douse it with water, then stir. Keep dousing and stirring until the coals are cool to the touch.

Be Careful When Smoking

Cigarette butts and other smoking materials can cause wildfires, especially in dry and windy conditions. We recently had a fire about 1.5 km from my house in Squamish. The local rumour is that is was started by mountain bikers smoking weed on a dry grassy section of trail.

Dispose of cigarette butts and joint roaches safely. My friend used to smoke and had a fireproof ashtray pouch to pack out cigarette butts. You can also use an Altoids tin or similar.

Drive Cars and ATVs With Care

Hot mufflers and sparks from vehicles can ignite dry grass and other flammable natural materials. Ensure your vehicle is properly maintained to avoid throwing sparks from dragging parts or chains, which can throw sparks. And avoid driving in tall grass, which can catch fire when it touches a hot muffler or exhaust pipe.

Final Thoughts

While it can be devastating to have a trip you’ve planned for a long time get cancelled due to wildfires or smoke, the forest will grow back and you can hike it another time. Don’t risk your life (or your lungs) and the lives of first responders by hiking near wildfires.

READ NEXT:

• The Best Weather Apps for Hiking
• Tips for Hiking in Hot Weather
• How to Find Trail Conditions
• The 10 Essentials: Things You Should Bring on Every Hike
• 16 Things to do Before a Hike

The post Tips for Safe Hiking in Wildfire Season appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I wish I had one easy answer for you. Wouldn’t it be great to say, “Oh, you just check this magic website called…”. I’m sorry, it doesn’t exist. Instead, you have to check in a bunch of places.

I’ve got tips for where to find trail conditions for hikes all over Canada and the United States. I’ve also got some general tips on how to prepare for a hike.

In this post you’ll find:

• How to find trail conditions: eight places to check
• Why is checking trail conditions important? What will happen if you don’t?
• What should you do if you can’t find up-to-date trail conditions? Should you hike anyway?

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

How to Find Trail Conditions

Check Park Websites

Many, national, state, provincial and regional park websites have a trail conditions section written by a park ranger. Some parks may update their conditions less frequently than others, but it’s often worth looking anyway.

Look up which park the trail you plan to hike is in, then head to the park website. Finding the trail conditions section can be tricky on some parks’ websites. Look for a pinned advisory at the top of the page or click through to the “hiking” or “planning your trip” sections.

If you can’t find the info you want on their website, some parks (especially National Parks) have visitor centers or ranger stations you can call or visit before your hike.

Read Trail Reviews on AllTrails

By far the most popular hiking app in North America is AllTrails. Lots of people use it to find nearby hikes, but you can also use it to leave reviews for hikes. If you scroll through the recent comments, you can often find valuable trail conditions info.

However, keep in mind that, unlike park ranger-generated trail conditions reports, regular people with a variety of hiking experience levels write AllTrails reviews. That means that you should take these reviews with a grain of salt. Some reviews might overstate the hazards while others might downplay them.

Check Instagram

You might be using Instagram to find hiking inspo. But I also find Instagram really helpful for checking trail conditions since it is so visual. Use the in-app search function to find the area you want to hike and be sure to check both the location tag and hashtag feeds. Choose “more recent” rather than “most popular”.

Be sure to check the date the photo was posted AND the caption to make sure you are looking at a current photo, not a throwback shot. And keep in mind that most people post photos of the beautiful parts of the hike, not the hard stuff or the ugly stuff, so you likely aren’t getting the full picture.

The Instagram community is quite friendly so if you see a recent photo from an area you want to hike, go ahead and ask for more info about trail conditions in a comment. You might get the best info that way, and make a new online friend.

Scroll Through Facebook Groups and Subreddits

These days there is a regional Facebook group or Subreddit for hiking pretty much everywhere. To find a local one in your area, search “[name of your city/region] hiking” on Facebook or Reddit. (On Facebook you will also want to filter by groups.)

Backcountry skiing or mountaineering groups can be helpful too since they often share the same approach trails as hikers. Some bucket list trails or national parks also have their own Facebook groups or sub-Reddits.

Before you add a post to the group asking for trail conditions, scroll through the most recent posts or use the search bar to see if someone else has already added info about the trail you are looking for.

Just like with Instagram or All Trails, keep in mind that the responses you get about trail conditions will come from people with various levels of experience and risk tolerance.

Check Web Cams

Webcams can be really helpful to judge current snow conditions, especially in the spring and fall when snow cover can be hard to predict. Very few trails have live webcams, but you can often find webcams close to trails. The most useful webcams are ones at roughly the same elevation as the trail you plan to hike.

Ski area and highway webcams can be a great resource. Google ski areas near where you want to hike or visit state or provincial highways websites to find them.

Look at Recent Aerial Photos on Copernicus Browser

One of my favourite ways to check snow cover is to check Copernicus Browser. It provides up-to-date satellite images from around the world. (FYI: This site used to be known as Sentinel Hub Playground.)

But keep in mind that when the snow is melting, the forests can often look green in the photos but there is snow hiding under the branches! Be sure to look for clearings, roads, and lakes to see if there is snow there.

The interface for Copernicus Browser is not intuitive. But if all you want to do is navigate to a named place and look at a recent satellite photo, it’s pretty easy to use.

You can scroll around to find the location you want or use the search bar to find named locations. You can also use the calendar to see when the most recent satellite photo was taken. Or you can adjust the date to find satellite photos from dates in the past. The calendar also shows which dates have photos with clear skies and which ones are obscured by clouds.

Look Up Smoke and Fire Info on FireSmoke

Unfortunately, in many places, summer is forest fire season for hikers. Even if no fires are burning near your hiking destination, winds can push smoke for hundreds of kilometres, making for an unpleasant hike or dangerous air quality.

I like to check the smoke forecast map on FireSmoke before my trip so I know what to expect. It uses an easy-to-understand animation that overlays the boundaries of nearby fires on a map along with a projection of where the smoke will blow. Colours show you how “bad” the air quality will be. You can also toggle between an hourly forecast, daily average, and daily maximum.

I’ve got a whole guide to safe hiking in wildfire season with more tips.

Check the Avalanche Forecast

Snow + slopes = avalanches. Hikers and snowshoers need to know the avalanche forecast to stay safe. In the United States, use Avalanche.org. In Canada, check the forecast on Avalanche.ca.

Posted forecasts will give you an idea of the snow conditions as well as what types of terrain are the most susceptible to avalanches.

There are no avalanche forecasts in the spring and early summer, but there can still be lots of snow in the mountains. You need to know how to recognize and avoid avalanche terrain when you hike. That means avoiding travelling on or below steep, snow-covered slopes. I like to use the slope angle overlay on Gaia GPS to help identify slopes that could slide.

Why is Checking Trail Conditions Important?

There’s nothing worse than getting halfway up a mountain to be stopped by snow. Or getting eaten alive by bugs because you didn’t bring bug spray and a long-sleeved shirt.

If you research the trail conditions ahead of time you have a higher chance of having fun since you’ll be able to pick an appropriate destination for your abilities, the weather and the current trail conditions. You’ll also bring the right gear and give yourself enough time to complete your hike.

More importantly, you’ll have a much higher chance of staying safe and avoiding getting lost. The first principle of Leave No Trace is to plan ahead and prepare, and checking trail conditions is an important part of that. Search and Rescue gets called out nearly every weekend for someone who didn’t check trail conditions. Don’t let it be you.

What Should You Do if You Can’t Find Up-to-Date Trail Conditions?

If you can’t find up-to-date trail conditions you have two choices: 1) Pick a different hike, or 2) Go anyway but bring lots of extra gear. Consider bringing gear for safe snow travel, such as an ice axe, trekking poles, microspikes, or snowshoes. Bring extra clothing for cold and wet conditions. Pack extra food and water in case it takes longer than you think.

Once you are on the trail (or even on the access road to the trail), be prepared to turn around if you face conditions that you aren’t prepared for. Flooded trails, slippery snow, washed-out bridges, blowdown trees obscuring the path and undrivable access roads are all good reasons to consider turning around.

It’s also a good idea to have a backup hike in the same area so you can do another nearby hike if the one you picked doesn’t work out.

Final Thoughts

I’ve definitely had some mishaps when I failed to check trail conditions. I remember one early summer hike when I didn’t check trail conditions and ended up post-holing into knee-deep snow for hours…. while wearing shorts. My shins got so cut up and my feet were soaked. Lesson learned: check the trail conditions!

What’s your favourite place to find good info on trail conditions? Tell me in the comments.

READ NEXT:

• 16 Things to Do Before a Hike
• The 10 Essentials: Things You Should Bring on Every Hike
• How to Leave No Trace (And Why it’s Important!)
• The Best Weather Apps for Hiking
• Tips for Safe Hiking in Wildfire Season

The post How to Find Trail Conditions appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I’ve been hiking and backpacking for two decades (I even wrote a hiking guidebook) and have tried a lot of different technical outdoor clothing, including lots of Merino wool. I also spent seven years working at the head office of a large Canadian outdoor brand. While I was there, I worked closely with the design and fabric teams and wrote staff training material. So I have a pretty good grasp on outdoor fabric technologies.

In this article, I’ll break down the pros and cons of Merino wool so you can decide if it’s worth it for you. This Merino wool guide includes:

• Is Merino wool worth it? My quick answer
• What is Merino wool? How is it different than regular wool
• Merino wool pros and cons plus some neutral factors where wool is equivalent to other fabrics
• Which Merino wool clothing is worth it? Should you buy Merino socks, shirts, base layers, and more.
• Merino wool tips: My advice for buying merino, taking care of it, and repairing it
• Comparing Merino wool to other fabrics: How does it stack up to polyester, regular wool, alpaca, and more
• Merino wool FAQ: Answers to common questions like is Merino good for summer and does it shrink

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Is Merino Wool Worth it?

My short answer: Most of the time, no.

The longer answer: Merino wool is a fabulous high-performance fabric. But it’s not magic. In many ways, Merino wool is comparable to high-tech polyester fabrics. The only place where Merino clearly outperforms is its ability to resist odors.

Some people really love the feel and performance of Merino. And if that’s you, and you find the expense and lack of durability of Merino don’t deter you, that’s great. If you love, Merino, keep on loving it.

But I think that a lot of people get sucked in by the premium price and slick marketing of Merino wool. They assume that because it is expensive, it must be the best. I’ve talked to lots of people who bought into the hype, then fell out of love with Merino after using it for a few years, mostly due to its lack of durability and high price.

If you are comparing a cheap big box store base layer to Merino wool, of course, Merino wool is going to be better. But if you compare Merino wool to high-end performance synthetic fabrics from innovative outdoor apparel companies, you’ll find that the synthetics provide equal or better performance at a cheaper price and with better durability.

What is Merino Wool?

Merino wool is the wool from a breed called Merino sheep. Although Merino sheep are originally from Spain, today they are found all over the world (and most famously, in Australia and New Zealand).

Merino wool is much softer and finer than regular wool. That means it is more comfortable to wear since it is less scratchy. The individual fibres of regular wool can be up to 40 microns in diameter. But Merino wool is always less than 24 microns. Premium fine Merino wool can go as low as 15 microns in diameter.

Merino wool is most often used for technical outdoor clothing. However, you can also find it in high-end casual sweaters and blankets.

Merino Wool Pros and Cons

Some people talk about Merino wool as if it is a miracle fabric. And it does indeed have lots of positive characteristics. However, there are also some negatives, which for some people (like me) often outweigh the positives.

Here’s my breakdown of the pros and cons of Merino wool. I’ve also included a few “neutral” factors – these are areas where Merino wool provides better performance than non-technical fabrics like cotton but has equivalent performance to technical fabrics like polyester.

Pro: Anti-Microbial

Merino wool is naturally anti-microbial. That means that it doesn’t get as stinky and odor-causing particles won’t build up in it over time like they can in synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon. (Read my guide to getting the smell out of hiking gear for info on how that happens.)

Since Merino wool is less smelly, it’s a great choice for multi-day backpacking or situations where you can’t or don’t want to wash your gear as often. When I used to commute to work by bike, I wore a Merino wool shirt that I washed once or twice a week instead of every day.

But… Merino wool can still get stinky over time, especially if it is blended with nylon or elastane. It’s not magic. It just takes way longer to develop that signature hiker stank than other fabrics.

Pro: Temperature Regulation and Breathability

Merino wool is naturally thermo-regulating. That means that it can help you feel cool when it’s hot out and provide warmth when it’s cold. This sounds crazy, but there’s actually science behind it.

Wool fibres are crimped, which creates little air pockets. In cold weather, these air pockets trap warm air and hold it close to you. When it’s hot out, wool pulls moisture and heat from your body. As the wool dries and releases the moisture, the crimps trap cold air, keeping you cool.

Many people love Merino wool because they can wear the same Merino wool clothing in both summer and winter. The temperature-regulating properties of Merino wool also mean that you are less likely to need to add and remove layers as the temperature changes on a hike.

However, it is worth mentioning that there are lots of innovative premium synthetic fabrics that can compete with Merino on temperature regulation. But there are also lots of crappy synthetics too.

Pro: Warm for its Weight

The natural air pockets that give Merino wool its temperature-regulating properties also mean that it can provide more warmth for its weight than other fabrics. (Although the construction of some synthetic fabrics can mimic the air pocket structure and perform just as well.)

The excellent warmth-to-weight ratio means that you can choose thinner Merino wool garments than their synthetic counterparts.

Neutral: Next to Skin Comfort

You might hear Merino wool described as being comfortable to wear or soft against your skin. That is certainly true, especially when you compare it to traditional wool.

But it’s not any softer or more comfortable than some other technical fabrics like polyester. (Of course this depends a lot on the specific technical fabric. I find Merino wool much more comfortable than the polyester in my Outdoor Research Echo Sun Hoodie. But I also like the feel of my soft Mountain Hardware Crater Lake Sun Hoodie more than the feel of Merino wool. (I reviewed both of these in my guide to the best sun hoodies for hiking.)

Some people prefer the way Merino feels on their skin, but some still find it a tiny bit itchy.

Neutral: Provides Warmth When Wet

Merino wool still provides insulation even when it is wet. By itself, that sounds like a pro, and Merino wool cheerleaders often list “warmth when wet” as one of Merino wool’s strengths. But it’s only a pro if you compare Merino to cotton, since cotton makes you colder when you are wet. Synthetic fabrics also provide warmth when they are wet, so Merino doesn’t have a leg up over other technical outdoor fabrics.

Neutral: Moisture Wicking

Here is another neutral factor that masquerades as a pro. Yes, Merino wool does a good job of wicking moisture away from your skin thanks to the unique air pocket-forming structure of the wool fibres. But many technical synthetic fabrics are comparable when it comes to wicking, so it’s not a true pro. (However, some synthetics achieve high wicking performance via chemical finishes that wash out over time, so it’s not an easy comparison to make.)

Neutral: Ethical and Sustainability Issues

Merino wool is an animal product, so it is not vegan-friendly.

It is also important to know there have been issues around animal cruelty associated with Merino wool production. Some Merino sheep farmers subject their animals to mulesing, a painful practice that removes strips of skin around the anus. Mulesing protects the sheep from flystrike infections. It is done without anesthetic and is considered inhumane and unethical. Most developed countries no longer permit mulesing.

Before you buy a Merino wool garment, check to see if the manufacturer has a statement about the treatment of the sheep they source their wool from. You can also check to see if there are measures in place to prevent overgrazing and the excessive use of pesticides. There are many reputable and ethical Merino wool brands on the market including Smartwool, Icebreaker, Darn Tough, Ibex, Patagonia, Ridge Merino, and Woolx.

However, it’s worth pointing out that there are ethical issue around polyester too. It’s made from petroleum, which isn’t a renewable resource (unlike wool). And given the current climate crisis, fossil fuel extraction is something we should be moving away from rather than increasing

As well, fleecy fabrics release microplastics, which is a big problem when they are washed as it ends up in our waterways and oceans.

If you are concerned about the sustainability of your clothing, buying used base layers is the best choice.

Con: Doesn’t Dry Quickly

Merino wool is often touted as being great at moisture-wicking since it can absorb more moisture than other fabrics. The “moisture-wicking” part of that sentence is a pro. But the “absorb” part is a con because Merino wool really hangs on to moisture. It can take 40% longer for a Merino wool garment to dry compared to a synthetic one.

I sweat a lot (in all temperatures and during all activities). Merino wool just stays wet way too long for me. It takes forever to dry, and in the meantime, it’s heavy and gross.

Con: Durability

Unfortunately, Merino wool has a poor track record when it comes to durability. The fibres of Merino wool are very fragile. That means they are prone to ripping, tearing, and snagging. Even high-quality Merino wool garments are likely to develop holes.

There are a few things you can do to maximize the life of your Merino wool clothing. Garments that use a blend of Merino wool and synthetic fabrics are much stronger and last longer. I have lots of Merino wool socks from Darn Tough and Smartwool that have lasted years since they use a Merino wool/nylon blend.

You also have to be really careful with your Merino wool. Snags on zippers, watch straps, backpack buckles, jewellery, and belts are common ways to get holes. But friction holes are sometimes unavoidable, especially in the armpits and crotch.

Con: Special Washing Required

Merino wool requires special washing and drying. Like all wool, it shrinks if it is heated too much, which means it needs to be washed in cold water and hung to dry.

Due to its poor durability, it also is best to wash Merino wool clothing on the delicate cycle. I also always wash my Merino wool by itself to protect it. I don’t allow zippers, buttons, Velcro, or buckles in the washing machine with my Merino!

While it isn’t required, it is a good idea to use a wool-specific laundry detergent (like Nikwax Wool Wash). Regular detergent can strip the wool of its natural wicking properties and can contribute to pilling. Avoid enzyme cleaners at all costs as they can actually break down the fibres in Merino wool. (More tips in my guide to washing hiking gear.)

Con: Expensive

If you’ve ever shopped for Merino wool gear, you have probably been shocked by how expensive it is. Close to $100 for a t-shirt?? What?! Yup, Merino wool prices are crazy.

While there are billions of sheep in the world, most are raised for their meat or for regular wool. Merino sheep are a specialized breed and there just aren’t that many of them. It costs a lot more to raise a sheep than it does to harvest a plant or make fabric from petroleum. As well, the fine fibres of Merino wool mean that you need more of them to make fabric.

And while Merino wool is a natural fibre, it still needs to be heavily processed before it is turned into clothing. The fibres are extensively cleaned to remove dirt, impurities, and lanolin (a greasy substance that naturally occurs in sheep’s wool.)

Which Merino Wool Clothing is Worth It?

My answer to whether Merino wool is worth it depends on what kind of clothing you’re talking about. For things like socks, I recommend it 1000%. For shirts, base layers, underwear, and mid-layers, the answer is a bit more nuanced.

Are Merino Wool Socks Worth It?

Yes! I swear by Merino wool hiking socks.

Since socks need to be extra durable, Merino wool socks are usually expertly blended with nylon and elastane. This means that you get the anti-microbial and temperature-regulating properties of Merino. But you also get better durability thanks to the nylon. And you get the wicking power of both Merino and nylon – it dries quicker than Merino alone.

I hike exclusively in Merino wool blend socks. My favourites are the Smartwool Hike Light Cushion Crew Sock and the Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew Lightweight Hiking Sock.

Are Merino Hiking Shirts Worth It?

Yes, but only for some people.

Many hikers love wearing Merino wool hiking shirts. They love the temperature regulation that Merino provides. And the anti-microbial properties of Merino make it ideal for backpacking trips when you don’t want to stink day after day.

However, when you wear a Merino wool hiking shirt, the poor durability of Merino wool becomes pretty apparent. And if you sweat a lot when you hike (like me) then you will find yourself soaking wet a lot of the time because Merino wool shirts absorb more water than synthetics and take longer to dry.

I think Merino wool hiking shirts are great for backpacking and for people who don’t sweat too much. They are also great for people who are careful with their gear.

Smartwool’s standard Merino Short Sleeve Tee is a really popular choice for a Merino hiking shirt. My husband has three of them and loves them. He likes that they don’t stink.

I have an Odlo Kinship Performance Wool long sleeve top that I love for cold weather hiking. It’s a wool/polyester/nylon blend that hits the sweat spot of performance for me. (Read my review in my fave gear of 2023 post.)

Are Merino Base Layers Worth It?

Yes, but only for some people.

The main purpose of a base layer (also known as thermals) is to move moisture away from your skin. Base layers also add warmth through insulation. (However, most of your warmth should come from your mid-layer.)

The thermo-regulation of Merino wool base layers is great for stop-and-start activities like skiing where you generate a lot of heat, but then slow down or stop for long periods and get cold.

Merino’s high warmth-to-weight ratio makes it great for base layers since you can get more warmth with less bulk. I usually sleep in Merino wool base layers when backpacking since they are smaller to pack.

However, for those who sweat a lot, Merino isn’t a good choice for active base layers since they absorb more moisture and take longer to dry.

Durability is also a factor with base layers – the repetitive rubbing of base layers against mid and outer layers in your crotch and armpits leads to pilling and holes far faster with Merino wool than with synthetic fabrics.

Merino wool base layers are great for skiing as long as you don’t run too hot and are ok with the durability issues. They also are great for sleeping in. Otherwise, I think synthetic base layers perform just as well so there isn’t any reason to spend more money on Merino wool.

I love my Smartwool Classic Thermal Base Layer Bottoms for sleeping on backpacking trips since they are lightweight, cozy, and come in fun prints. For snowshoeing, I wear Smartwool Intraknit Thermal Base Layers since they combine Merino and polyester for faster drying times.

Is Merino Wool Underwear Worth It?

Not really.

I’ve heard lots of rave reviews about Merino wool underwear. (And I included a few Merino wool pairs in my guide to the best hiking underwear since some hikers swear by them.) People love it for the same reason they love Merino wool hiking shirts – they are great at temperature regulation and they don’t stink.

But if you sweat a lot, Merino wool underwear is a disaster since it holds moisture, which can lead to uncomfortable chafing. Merino wool undies are also notorious for getting tons of holes. They often lose their shape a lot faster than synthetics too.

Lots of Merino wool underwear is heavily blended with nylon and elastane to increase durability and dry quicker. This is especially true of sports bras, which need to fit tightly. Some underwear and sports bras marketed as Merino wool contain less than 30% Merino wool… but still carry a full Merino wool price tag! Shop carefully.

If you love the feel of Merino wool and think the expense of Merino underwear is worth it, that’s great. But I don’t think Merino wool underwear is a great option for most people – if you are buying a $40 pair of undies, they shouldn’t get holes, bag out, and chafe your butt!

The only merino wool underwear I can recommend are the Branwyn Essential, although I find they are better for cold weather or less sweaty trips. But the highest rated Merino wool underwear are the women’s Icebreaker Merino Siren and Men’s Icebreaker Anatomica. If you want a Merino sports bra, I like the Smartwool Intraknit Strappy Bra – but keep in mind that it is only 28% wool and can definitely can get stinky. (Mine is a bit gross.)

Are Merino Wool Mid-Layers Worth It?

No. Synthetics greatly outperform Merino in this category.

Merino performs best when you wear it next to your skin to wick sweat and absorb heat. Merino wool does work as a mid-layer for insulation, but it doesn’t work any better than fleece, synthetic insulation, or down. And you need a much thicker wool mid-layer to get the equivalent warmth that you’d get with fleece, down, or synthetic insulation.

If you like the feel of wool, a blended wool and polyester fleece is a nice option for a casual mid-layer. But it will be heavier than a pure synthetic, dry slower, and be more expensive.

I have an older Smartwool Smartloft Jacket that I got years ago when I was a Smartwool brand amabassador. It has a Merino wool interior that is cozy, especially when layered over a short sleeved shirt. But I don’t find it as versatile to wear as a fleece.

Are Merino Wool Toques/Beanies Worth It?

Yes, if you don’t have sensitive skin.

I love my Smartwool Merino Beanie (called a toque here in Canada) – I’m wearing it in the photo above. It is really warm for the weight, so it doesn’t take up tons of space in my pack. Since I won’t be sweating much when I wear it, I don’t have to worry about it not drying quickly.

However, if you have sensitive skin, you might find that Merino wool itches your forehead a bit. In that case, a grid fleece hat like the Outdoor Research Trail Mix Beanie is a better option. It has the same warmth-to-weight as Merino wool.

Merino Wool Tips

From what to look for when shopping for Merino to how to wash and repair it, here are my top Merino wool tips:

• Choose the right Merino wool weight for your activity: Merino comes in weights from ultra-fine/ultralight light to heavy-weight. Lighter weights are good for warmer weather and more vigorous activity compared to heavier weights. Some brands list the grams per square metre (gsm) weight of the fabric. Look for around 150gsm for lightweight, year-round layers and 250-300gsm for extra warm winter layers.
• Get a close fit: To benefit from Merino wool’s thermoregulating properties, Merino clothing needs to fit close to the skin. It can’t be too baggy.
• Consider Merino wool blends: Merino wool blended with nylon, polyester and/or elastane is more durable, stretchier, and absorbs a bit less water than pure Merino. Some budget brands mix Merino with nylon to bring prices down. But other performance brands like Smartwool, Icebreaker and Odlo, mix Merino wool with other fabrics in innovative ways that boost function and fit. Pay attention to the percentages. You want at least 50% Merino, or else it’s not worth buying. If you prioritize the benefits of Merino but want more durability, look for 80-90% Merino.
• Buy from a brand that specializes in Merino: For the best performance, buy from a Merino wool brand like Smartwool or Icebreaker or an outdoor brand that makes lots of base layers like Patagonia, Odlo, Helly Hansen, and Arc’teryx. They will have the best fit, seam placement, and fabric blends. You can buy cheap Merino base layers from Costco, etc. but in my experience, they are poor quality and don’t last very long.
• Wash Merino carefully. If you baby your Merino wool, it will last. For the longest lifespan, always wash on delicate with wool-specific detergent (like Nikwax Wool Wash) and hang to dry. The care label might say regular wash and tumble dry is ok, but that’s because they don’t want to scare you off buying Merino. Trust me, stick with the delicate cycle and hang dry no matter what.
• Repair your Merino. Holes are inevitable, but that doesn’t mean you have to throw away your gear. Even if you are a terrible sewer, a few minutes with a needle and thread is all it takes to fix a small hole. For big ones, I sew on patches made from a pair of retired Merino base layer bottoms that was beyond repair.

Comparing Merino Wool to Other Fabrics

Most marketing material touts the performance values of merino wool, but doesn’t tell you how Merino stacks up in comparison to other common outdoor fabrics. I pitted Merino wool and against several other outdoor fabrics commonly used for base layers and hiking shirts.

Merino Wool vs Polyester

Merino wool wins over polyester in a few categories, but definitely not all of them. It’s important to note that there are tons of types of polyester fabric on the market. Higher-end tech fabrics with branded names will out-perform cheap unbranded polyester.

Merino wool is naturally anti-microbial, while polyester is prone to getting stinky. You can buy polyester with anti-odor properties, but it’s either a finish that washes out, or very expensive if it’s embedded in the garment.

For a lot of polyester fabrics, whether it is better than Merino or not, really depends on the type of polyester. In general, Merino is equivalent to or better than some (but not all) polyester fabrics when it comes to breathability, temperature regulation, warmth for weight, next-to-skin comfort, warmth when wet, and moisture-wicking.

All polyester will work better than Merino wool when you compare quick drying, durability, price, and washing instructions.

Merino Wool vs. Regular Wool

For hiking and other outdoor sports, Merino wool beats regular wool in pretty much every category except durability and price. It has better temperature regulation, breathability, next-to-skin comfort, and wicking than regular wool. Merino wool and regular wool score about the same when it comes to warmth for weight, warmth when wet, quick drying, and washing instructions.

Merino Wool vs. Polypropylene

Polypropylene is similar to polyester, but a bit less common. It wicks better, dries faster, and costs less than both polyester and Merino wool. It also gets stinky incredibly easily.

Polypropylene was commonly used in base layers in the 1990s but it is less prevalent now. Helly Hansen makes a lot of polypropylene base layers, some of which they blend with Merino wool. Choose polypropylene over wool if wicking and quick drying are your primary concerns and you can live with the stink.

Merino Wool vs. Modal/Tencel/Lyocell/Viscose/Rayon

Modal, Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, and rayon are all semi-synthetic fabrics made from wood pulp. Some are softer and more eco-friendly than others (which makes them cost more.) They don’t provide any warmth. These fabrics don’t wrinkle and feel really soft (even softer than Merino), but they aren’t as good at wicking or quick-drying compared to Merino wool or synthetics. None of these fabrics are very good for outdoor clothing.

Merino Wool vs. Alpaca

Alpaca wool fabric is made from the wool of alpacas, a relative of the llama that lives in the South American mountains. Currently, most alpaca garments on the market are intended more for casual wear than for hiking or other outdoor activities. As well, most alpaca garments are heavily blended with other fabrics like nylon for durability or Tencel for softness.

Alpaca wool is softer than Merino. It is also a bit more durable, but still very fragile compared to synthetics. Alpaca is a bit warmer than Merino since its structure creates larger air pockets. (Alpacas need to stay warm in the chilly Andes Mountains!) Alpaca also retains a bit less water than Merino (but still doesn’t dry as fast as polyester or polypropylene).

The alpaca market is still growing so there will likely be a lot of options available in the next few years. But for now, most alpaca products are not high-tech enough for hikers.

Merino Wool vs. Cashmere

Cashmere is made from the wool of Kashmir goats that live in Afghanistan, China, India, Iran, and Iraq. While cashmere is warmer and softer than Merino, it doesn’t beat Merino in any other category. Cashmere is less durable, harder to wash, and more expensive. As well, cashmere is typically only used in casual wear, not in technical outdoor clothing.

Merino Wool FAQ

Let me answer some of the most common questions about Merino wool:

Is Merino Wool itchy?

No. Most people do not find Merino wool itchy, especially compared to regular wool. However, some people still find Merino wool a tiny bit itchy compared to other fabrics. Merino wool blends are less itchy than pure Merino wool.

Is Merino Wool Soft?

Yes. Merino wool is very soft, especially compared to regular wool. However, it can feel a tiny bit rougher than super soft fabrics like Modal or even some types of polyester.

Is Merino Wool Warm?

Yes. Merino wool provides great warmth for its weight compared to other fabrics. However, it is also naturally temperature regulating, which makes it great in a range of temperatures.

Is Merino Wool Good for Winter?

Yes. Merino wool base layers can provide lots of warmth, especially mid- and heavy-weight Merino (200-300gsm). However, you will still need insulating mid-layers on top of your Merino.

Is Merino Wool Good For Summer?

Yes. Merino wool is great for temperature regulation so lightweight Merino wool pieces (150gsm) work well in the summer. However, keep in mind that Merino wool doesn’t dry as quickly as synthetics, so if you sweat a lot, you might not like Merino wool for summer use.

Is Merino Wool Washable?

Yes. But it has special washing instructions. To make your Merino wool last, it is best to wash it in cold water on the delicate cycle, use wool-specific detergent, and hang it to dry. The care label on some Merino wool clothing says you can wash it on the regular cycle and tumble dry. But I don’t recommend it unless the Merino is blended with another fabric (for example Merino wool blend hiking socks).

Does Merino Wool Shrink?

Yes. Like most wool, if you wash it in hot water or put it in the dryer, it will shrink at least a little bit. But if you wash it in cold water and hang to dry, it won’t shrink.

Is Merino Wool Expensive?

Yes, compared to other fabrics, Merino wool is quite expensive. That is because Merino wool is expensive to produce – raising and shearing sheep is more expensive than growing cotton or processing petroleum.

So that’s my big explanation of why I think Merino wool isn’t always worth it. I’m sure some of you will disagree, and that’s ok. I’ll be the first one to say that Merino wool is an awesome fabric. It’s just not always the best one to choose for every application.

Do you have more Merino wool questions? Ask them in the comments.

READ NEXT:

• How to Get the Smell Out of Hiking Clothes
• Why Do Rain Jackets Wet Out?
• My Favourite Hiking Gear – 2023 Edition
• Best Hiking Underwear For Women and Men
• 20+ Ways to Reduce Your Backpack Weight

The post Is Merino Wool Worth It? Pros and Cons appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I’m definitely not an ultralight hiker (more on what that is below), but I’m a gear geek and have refined my backpacking gear choices over the years to prioritize low weight without sacrificing safety or too much comfort.

This guide to ways to reduce your backpack weight includes:

• Why should you reduce your backpack weight? What are the advantages?
• What is “Ultralight? Should you be an ultralight backpacker? What are the downsides?
• Over 20 ways to reduce your backpack weight including what to look for when shopping for gear and what to leave behind.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Why Should You Reduce Your Backpack Weight?

Maybe you’ve been on a few backpacking trips and you’ve thought: “This weight is manageable. I can hike with this.” And that’s probably true.

The general rule is that your backpack should weigh less than 20 percent of your body weight. But using that rule, if you weigh 200 lbs (91 kg), your pack could weigh up to 40 lbs (18 kg). That’s a lot of weight!

But what if your pack were a bit lighter? How would it feel then? Chances are, it would feel pretty good! Here are my top reasons why you should reduce your backpack weight:

• It’s more comfortable. It’s common to have sore shoulders and hips after backpacking. I bet you don’t feel that way after day hiking since your pack is lighter.
• It’s easier on your body. If you’re recovering from injury, or just dealing with aging, the less weight you carry, the less stress you put on your body. And over time, that can be an important factor in extending your backpacking career.
• You can move faster and cover more ground with a lighter pack. And that really opens up a ton more options for backpacking trips.
• It prevents injury. Carrying a heavy pack puts more strain on your body, especially your ankles and knees. You are also likely to be more tired when your backpack is heavy, and fatigue can lead to tripping and falling.
• It’s easier to balance when a heavy pack isn’t affecting your center of gravity. With a lighter pack, you will find technical terrain or creek crossings easier.
• It’s easier to stay organized. If you have less stuff to misplace, you won’t waste time looking for it.
• It lets you bring luxury items. If you save weight on your gear, you can bring some non-essentials. My husband pushed for us to get an ultralight tent because he loves bringing his chair on trips. With the weight we saved on the tent, he doesn’t mind the weight of the chair.

What is “Ultralight”? Should You Be an Ultralight Backpacker?

If you’ve spent any time researching gear or talking to backpackers, you’ve probably heard the term “ultralight“. But what does it mean?

There is no established definition of ultralight, but in general, it means carrying the lightest (and sometimes least) amount of gear possible.

Some people define ultralight by your base weight, which is the weight of everything in your backpack, minus consumables like food, water, and fuel. A common ultralight base weight is between 10 and 15 pounds (4.5 to 6.8 kg).

Psst! Looking for more outdoor slang definitions? Check out this post: 300+ Hiking Terms Explained: A Hiking Glossary

Ultralight is not just a base weight definition – it’s also a mindset and a subculture. Some backpackers find it fun to obsess over the latest and greatest ultralight gear. They continually tweak their backpack contents to achieve lighter and lighter base weights. And they spend tons of time in ultralight sub-Reddits, forums, and Facebook groups chatting about gear.

A Few Words of Caution About Going Ultralight

But the ultralight mentality also has a few negative aspects.

Firstly, some people get obsessive about being ultralight and take it too far: It’s easy to get caught up in the hype and chase a low base weight number instead of thinking about safety. When deciding what gear to leave behind, make sure you take safety gear, including the ten essentials.

Second, it’s important to remember that backpacking is supposed to be fun. Sometimes people going super ultralight lose sight of that. They drop their pack weight so far that they aren’t comfortable and their trip isn’t fun. Make sure that you bring the right gear to keep you warm, ensure you get a good sleep, and have some tasty food.

The third negative aspect of ultralight backpacking can be a big barrier for many people: Ultralight gear is ridiculously expensive. Much of it is made by small companies using unusual materials, which accounts for the high prices. Since ultralight gear can be a big investment, do a lot of research and read reviews before you buy.

And lastly, ultralight gear is often not very durable. It’s made with very thin and lightweight materials that can easily snag, rip, or crack. You really have to take care of ultralight gear if you want it to last. Frequent patches and repairs are the norm, not the exception.

How to Reduce Your Backpack Weight

I’ve been backpacking for 20 years. In that time I’ve been on dozens of trips and spent hundreds of days carrying a fully loaded backpacking pack. I even wrote two backpacking guidebooks.

On my first backpacking trips I used borrowed gear that didn’t fit me and was really heavy. I brought tons of clothes. I loved the scenery and being outdoors, but the weight of the pack made hiking miserable. Since then I’ve refined my backpacking gear list over and over, trying to save weight while maintaining comfort.

I’m definitely not an ultralight hiker by any definition (my base weight is usually around 18-20 lbs./8.2-9.1 kg), but I do keep ultralight principles in mind when packing.

Here are the top tips for reducing your backpacking pack weight that I’ve picked up over the years:

1. Use a Scale

The first thing you need to do if you are going to reduce your backpack weight is to get a scale and weigh everything. If you don’t know how much something weighs, how are you going to know if you can find a lighter option?

I use a basic digital kitchen scale to figure out how much each piece of gear weighs.

I also keep a digital luggage scale in the car so I can weigh my fully loaded backpack at the trailhead at the beginning and end of my trip. That way I know how much weight I am carrying including food, water, and fuel, as well as how much lighter it was at the end of the trip.

On group trips, we also use the luggage scale to figure out how to split up shared gear so that no one is overloaded.

2. Make a Gear List (or Use an App)

After you get the weights of all your gear, you need some way to organize it. The old-school way was to plug everything into a spreadsheet so you could virtually add and subtract things from your pack to see what impact they had on your overall weight.

But these days there is an easier solution: pack weight web apps like Lighter Pack and Pack Wizard. Both of these apps let you build a personalized gear list including weights of each item. Then you can virtually add them to your pack.

These apps help visualize what your loaded pack will weigh with various gear configurations for different types of trips. They also let you categorize your gear so you can see how much weight you are carrying in each category. I really like the pie charts they produce.

4. Focus on The Big Three

The easiest way to drop weight is to focus on what ultralight hikers commonly call The Big Three: your tent, backpack and sleep system (sleeping bag and pad). These are usually the heaviest items that backpackers carry so if you can drop weight from The Big Three, it can make a huge difference.

Lightweight Tents

If you are looking to drop some weight from your shelter, consider an ultralight tent. True ultralight tents like the Zpacks Duplex weigh about 2 lbs/ 0.9kg or less. To achieve such a low weight they use fragile (and expensive) materials like Dyneema or very thin silicone-treated nylon or polyester. Many are not free-standing so they can be a challenge to pitch, and they often require you to use trekking poles as tent poles.

If you aren’t ready to go full ultralight when buying a new tent, there are some great mainstream lightweight tent options. They are a bit heavier than ultralight tents, but they are more durable, easier to use, and less expensive.

I’ve loved my MSR Hubba Hubba for years, but I’ve also heard great reviews for the Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL and the NEMO Dragonfly OSMO. They all weigh just under 3 pounds but are fully freestanding.

Lightweight Sleep Systems

The sleeping bag and pad you choose will depend a lot upon the temperatures you plan to backpack in.

Many ultralight hikers choose to forgo a sleeping bag entirely and use an ultralight quilt instead. These can be great in milder temperatures, but won’t keep you warm if it’s much below freezing. Pay attention to temperature ratings when shopping.

Whether you are looking for a quilt or sleeping bag, keep a few things in mind while shopping for lightweight versions. In general, down is lighter than synthetic insulation (although there have been some great tech advances in synthetics in the last few years).

Look for down sleeping bags or quilts with high fill-power down and ultralight face fabrics (20-denier or less). I love my Therm-a-rest Ohm 32F/0C. It’s super light and converts to a 2-person quilt. I recently got the MEC Aphelion UL -7C Down sleeping bag. It weights just 700g (25 oz) and is plenty warm.

You can also save a lot of weight on your sleeping pad, but make sure you get one that provides enough insulation (measured as R-value) for the temperatures you will face. Some ultralight hikers prefer cheap and durable closed-cell foam pads like the Therm-a-rest Z-lite (14 oz/410 g).

But many people find those uncomfortable and opt for an inflatable pad with insulation. The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite is the OG lightweight pad in this category, weighing just 13 oz/370 g. Another popular lightweight option is the Sea to Summit Ether Light (16.6 oz/470 g).

Lightweight Backpacks

Your backpack is the last piece of gear you should upgrade. If all of your gear isn’t ultralight yet, it won’t fit into an ultralight backpack and it won’t be comfortable to carry.

In general, most mainstream 60L backpacking packs weigh 3.5 to 4.5 lbs (1.6 to 2 kg). I carry the Gregory Amber 65 (3.55 lbs./1.6 kg) which is on the lighter side of mainstream but certainly not ultralight. (The men’s version is the Gregory Stout.)

Heavier packs like the Osprey Aether 65 (4.92 lbs./2.23 kg) and Ariel 65 (4.85 lbs./2.2 kg) have more comfortable harnesses, thicker and more durable fabric, and more features, like extra pockets. But at nearly 5 pounds, they are twice as heavy as an ultralight pack.

Ultralight packs have less robust harnesses, so they won’t be comfortable with heavy loads. Sometimes they don’t even have an internal frame to distribute the load. They also have few features and internal pockets but often have big and stretchy external pockets. Popular ultralight packs like the Hyperlite Southwest 55 typically weigh around 1 kg (2.2 lbs.)

5. Carry Less Clothing

Clothing is usually the second heaviest category of gear that backpackers carry after The Big Three. It’s important to carry warm and waterproof clothing in case of bad weather. But lots of backpackers carry a lot of extra clothing just in case.

Dial in your clothing system so that you have only what you need. Skip the extras and the just-in-case layers. My goal for a trip is to layer all the clothing I bring so I can withstand the coldest temperature I face.

And don’t worry about needing extra clean clothing. Besides an extra pair or two of socks and underwear, you don’t need clean clothing. Embrace the stink!

6. Choose Lightweight Jackets

Jackets are often the heaviest clothing item that backpackers carry. Depending on the trip, you might be carrying a rain jacket, a fleece jacket, and/or a puffy jacket. The weight of jackets can add up and you often need them to ensure you stay dry and warm.

If you’re shopping for a rain jacket, look for lightweight options. These usually have 2.5-layer construction rather than 2-layer or 3-layer construction since it minimizes bulk. However, 2.5-layer options are generally less breathable and less durable.

If you’re looking for a recognizable technology, Gore-Tex Paclite is very lightweight. I love my Mountain Hardwear Minimizer jacket with Paclite. It weight only 8 oz/225g and has stood up to some intense rainstorms.

For an insulated jacket, opt for down over synthetic to save weight and bulk. Just like with sleeping bags, look for high fill-power and thin face fabrics. I love my Arc’teryx Cerium as it is so toasty warm. I’ve also heard great things about the Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer.

I love wearing fleece and bring one on every backpacking trip. In general, choose a fleece that weighs less than about 10 oz/283 g. You don’t need a heavy-weight fleece. To save weight, look for ones made of grid fabrics or airy knits like Polartec Alpha Direct that trap warm air. That way you can get more warmth for the weight.

7. Skip the Heavy Hiking Boots

Full-height leather hiking boots are really heavy. For example, the full-leather Zamberlan Vioz GTX hiking boots weigh 3 lbs 8 oz (1.59 kg) a pair. For every step you take in those, you’ll be lifting up 3.5 pounds of weight!

In comparison, Altra Lone Peaks, the trail runner of choice for thru-hikers weighs just 10.6 oz (300g). That’s a huge difference.

Of course, there are big trade-offs there. Traditional hiking boots offer more ankle support, foot stability, waterproofness, and durability compared to trail runners. If you aren’t used to hiking in trail runners with a weighted pack, don’t just jump in – you could injure yourself.

The good news is that there is a huge spectrum of footwear in between lightweight trail runners and huge traditional leather hiking boots. I like the Salomon X Ultra Mid Gore-Tex hiking boots. At 1 lb. 14 oz. (850 g) they are a nice compromise on weight while providing some durability and stability.

8. Understand Hiking Weather Forecasts

For me, the key to carrying less clothing (and choosing the right sleep system for each trip) is to pack for the weather forecast. But looking at a city forecast is usually useless since the weather is very different in the mountains.

I use an algorithmic forecast like Spotwx to get weather predictions for the exact elevation where I’ll be camping.

Psst! My guide to the best weather apps for hiking has more weather tips.

9. Carry a Thermometer

A few years ago I started carrying a thermometer on all my backpacking trips. It’s been really helpful to know the exact temperature so I can dial in my clothing and sleep system choices for different temperatures. I make a note of the temperature, what I packed, and if it worked. That way I can adjust for the next trip.

I started out with a cheap zipper-pull thermometer, but last year I upgraded to the digital ThermoDrop. It’s just as tiny and only a few dollars more. But it has the added feature of recording the lowest and highest temperatures since the last time it was turned off. That means I can keep track of the coldest temperature overnight without waking up to check!

Psst! The ThermoDrop made my list of my favourite gear of 2022.

10. Streamline Your Cook System

If all you are doing is boiling water, you don’t need multiple pots. And while Jetboils and other stove systems are super popular for their reliability and speed, they are fairly heavy. (The Jetboil Flash weighs 13.1 oz/371 g.)

Pare your cook system down to a tiny stove and one small pot. I love the MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe (2.9 oz/80 g). If I’m going solo, I use the Vargo Titanium BOT 700 (4.8 oz/138 g).

11. Measure Your Fuel

Many people just throw a full fuel canister in their backpack without bothering to figure out how much fuel they actually need for their trip. But that usually means carrying a bunch of extra fuel.

Instead, figure out how much water you will need to boil during your trip (plus a few extra litres just in case). Then look up your stove’s boil time in the manufacturer’s specs as well as its burn time (how long it can run on a fuel canister of a certain size). Use these numbers to figure out how much fuel to bring.

If you have partially empty canisters at home, you can use your kitchen scale to figure out how much fuel is left in them. Simply weigh the partially empty canister, then compare it to the weight of a full canister (which should be listed on the side of it).

12. Plan Your Food Carefully and Count Calories

It’s easy to pack tons of just-in-case snacks. Or to get tempted to pack treats or luxury meals that are heavy. Be mindful when you plan your backpacking food.

Always choose calorie-dense food – it should provide lots of calories for its weight. My rule is that food should have at least 100 calories per ounce (25 g). And don’t carry liquid in your food – pack dry, dehydrated food that you can add water to at camp.

Once you have chosen your food, remove excess packaging or cut up packaging to save weight and bulk.

You also need to count the calories in your food to make sure that you have enough. And of course to make sure that you aren’t bringing more than you can possibly eat. On a recent five-day trip my husband and I packed in a hurry and didn’t look at our snacks too carefully. We packed out so much extra food – at least three extra days’ worth of snacks! Oops!

Psst! For advice on backpacking menus, check out my post on choosing the best backpacking meals, my guide to making DIY backpacking meals from grocery store ingredients, and my guide to dehydrating backpacking meals.

13. Ditch the Stove

This is a more radical idea (and to be honest, something I’m not willing to do) but some ultralight backpackers hike stoveless. They cold-soak their food or eat foods that don’t require added water.

Going stoveless works best in warm or mild weather. It also requires more creativity and planning if you plan to cold-soak. Many people find hot food to be an important mental pick-me-up, so try out going stoveless on a short trip before you commit to it for a longer hike.

14. Research Water Sources

It can be tempting to load up with lots of water at the start of a hike. But water is heavy. Each litre weighs 35 oz/1 kg! Instead, look at maps and read trail descriptions ahead of time so you can fill up at water sources along the way and carry only as much water as you need.

15. Swap Out the Heavy Water Filter

When I first started backpacking we carried a heavy pump filter. But filter technology has come a long way. Now I carry a lightweight Katadyn BeFree filter that weighs just 2.3 oz (65 g). The Sawyer Squeeze is another popular option at 3 oz/85 g.

If you want to get even lighter, you can use purification drops like Pristine or Aquamira instead. They weigh only 1 oz (28 g) but you do have to wait for the chemical reaction to start and some people say that they add a bit of a chemical taste to water.

16. Leave the Heavy Water Bottles at Home

If you run into me in the city, there is a 100% chance I have my beloved Hydroflask bottle with me. But there is no way I’m taking it on a backpacking trip – it’s waaay too heavy. Metal water bottles and ones made with thick plastic like Nalgenes are heavy.

Ultralight light hikers use Smartwater bottles since they are lightweight, durable, and cheap to replace. Empty soda bottles or Gatorade are also great. I own a bunch of Platypus Platy bottles (1.3 oz./37 g). I like that they roll up so I can stash them away if I’m not using them.

17. Choose Toiletries and First Aid Gear Carefully

While a first aid kit is one of the ten essentials, you can still be mindful about what you put in it. Lots of people buy a pre-made first aid kit, and then just pack it with them without looking at what is inside. Take a good look at your first aid kit and make sure it contains everything you need… and nothing else.

For toiletries, you don’t need much, especially on a short trip. Use travel-sized items or decant things into tiny bottles. (Tip: For short trips, I use these tiny cosmetic sample containers from Amazon to hold liquids.)

Depending on your personal tolerance, you can skip most toiletries. For me, the bare minimum is a toothbrush, toothpaste, and sunscreen. I also usually carry deodorant, a small comb, moisturizer, and a couple of wet wipes.

18. Minimize Electronics

It’s easy to get caught up in the hype for gadgets: phone, camera (with lenses, tripod and other accessories!), GPS unit, eReader, satellite messenger, GPS watch, etc. Try to bring as few as possible to save weight.

Another thing to keep in mind is that all those electronics need batteries. Research settings for all your devices to prolong battery life. Try to bring one small power bank to charge all your electronics rather than stand-alone batteries for each device.

Make sure you understand how much power each of your devices needs to fully recharge and pack an appropriately sized power bank. It’s easy to pack a huge one that you don’t need! Most backpackers shouldn’t need anything larger than 10,000 mAh. In general, solar panels are heavier than small power banks and aren’t worth their weight unless you are on a longer trip in a sunny climate.

I have an Anker power bank, but I’ve great things about the Nitecore ones – they are made with a carbon fibre shell that is designed to be super lightweight.

One of my recent discoveries is this tiny 3-in-1 charging cable. That cable, along with a tiny Garmin smartwatch adapter is all I need to charge. No more mess of cables!

19. Be Mindful of “Luxury” Items

One of the reasons to reduce your backpack weight is so that you can carry extra luxury items without being overloaded. Everyone’s definition of a luxury item is different, but many hikers consider backpacking chairs, bathing suits, a book or eReader, camera gear, a pillow, camp shoes, alcohol, or gourmet food to be luxury items.

Bringing all of these luxury items sounds great, but in reality, you likely won’t use all of them. Do a short trip without your luxury items and see how you feel. Then add back in the one or two items you really missed having.

20. Share Gear With Your Group

If you backpack in a group, have a conversation before the trip about shared gear. You probably don’t need a power bank, first aid kit, stove, water filter, satellite messenger, or tent for each person. You can also eat shared meals to save fuel. Share the weight!

21. Carry Multi-Use Items

A common piece of advice for reducing your backpack weight is to carry multi-use items. Some of the suggestions are no-brainers: Skip the mug or bowl and eat and drink from your cooking pot. Use a stuff sack or puffy jacket as a pillow. Your extra socks can double as mittens or an insulator for your water filter or phone/batteries in cold weather.

Take a good look at your gear – I’m sure some of it can serve more than one purpose!

22. Do a Post-Trip Debrief

As you unpack from a trip, do a debrief. What didn’t use? Why not? What worked well? What didn’t? Can you leave something behind next time? My goal for each trip is to use everything I brought. (Except that I’m always happy if the weather was nice enough that I didn’t have to use my rain gear!)

23. Get Ruthless With Scissors

This last tip is for the truly committed. If you’ve saved weight everywhere else, you can trim down your gear. You aren’t going to get any big weight savings this way, but if you believe that every gram counts, get out the scissors!

Cut the tags off all your gear. Chop the excess length of your pack straps and drawstrings on stuff sacks. Cut the handle off your toothbrush.

Cutting up your gear is a fairly drastic step and one you can’t undo. Remember to “measure twice and cut once” so you don’t end up with gear that doesn’t function anymore! And of course, keep in mind that this voids the warranty on your gear and means you likely can’t resell it if you want to upgrade to something else.

That’s everything you need to know to reduce your backpack weight. Do you have more tips for how to go ultralight backpacking? Drop them in the comments!

READ NEXT:

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• My Favorite Hiking Gear – 2022 Edition
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• Grocery Store Backpacking Meals for Cheap

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