The Juan de Fuca Trail covers 47 challenging kilometres along the coast of southwestern Vancouver Island. I’ve hiked the trail twice, so I put together a Juan de Fuca Trail itinerary to help you get prepared for your trip.

I also have several Juan de Fuca itinerary options for trips between 3 and 7 days and options for doing just part of the trail. (The JDF is also featured in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.)

Use this Juan de Fuca itinerary and section-by-section overview to plan your trip. It includes:

• details on what each section is like including distances, difficulty, hiking time, and must-sees
• info on each campsite
• sample itinerary for a standard 4-day trip plus six more itinerary options

WANT MORE JUAN DE FUCA TRAIL INFO? Check out these posts:

• Juan de Fuca Trail Basics
• Juan de Fuca Trail Packing List: Everything You Need to Bring
• Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Key Distances on the Juan de Fuca Trail

China Beach Trailhead to Mystic Beach

The China Beach Trailhead is actually located at the China Beach Day Use Area, which is few minutes up the road from the China Beach Campground at Juan de Fuca Provincial Park.

There are two parking lots here – the upper parking lot on the right is where you’ll find the Juan de Fuca Trailhead. The lower parking lot on the left has the trail to China Beach. There’s an outhouse here if you need one.

The first part of the Juan de Fuca Trail rambles through a fairly level section of forest. About 1km from the trailhead, cross the suspension bridge over Pete Wolf Creek. This is the first of several suspension bridges on the trail.

Shortly after the bridge, the trail curves left and starts heading downhill. You’ll start to hear and smell the ocean as you work your way down sets of stairs towards Mystic Beach.

Mystic Beach Camp

Mystic Beach is one of the smaller beaches on the Juan de Fuca Trail at just 350m long. The highlight here is the beautiful white sand and the waterfall that tumbles over the cliffs at the east end. Try to time your visit for low tide so you can go right up to the waterfall or explore a rock arch at the west end of the beach.

The trail hits the beach roughly in the center. Find the continuation of the Juan de Fuca Trail at the west end of the beach along with a creek to get drinking water.

The toilets and bear cache are located up a steep side trail just east of the route from the trailhead.

This beach doesn’t have that many campsite options. There are a few tent sites tucked into the forest behind the beach and flat clearings on the gravel as well as a few sandy spots near the path to the trailhead that may be underwater at higher tides.

Mystic Beach to Bear Beach

Leaving Mystic Beach, the trail climbs up onto a bluff and rambles along the top. There are some peek-a-boo views through this section. Around KM3, the trail heads uphill to a bridge over Pat Phillip Creek, then back downhill again.

The trail sticks fairly close to the edge of the bluff and travels through some beautiful forest. However, you can’t see the ocean. There are fresh clear-cuts just uphill and in a few places, they are visible from the trail.

The trail climbs back uphill again to cross Bent Creek around 5km. You descend briefly before ascending again to cross Fatt Creek around 6km. Watch for a brief viewpoint between the two.

The trail descends steeply to the east end of Bear Beach around the 8km marker on a rough and muddy trail beside a waterfall.

BC Parks is doing trail maintenance in this area to stabilize the slope. When I hiked it, there was a temporary ladder bolted to the cliff (pictured below), but as of spring 2024 there are permanent ladders here.

Bear Beach is one of the longest beaches on the Juan de Fuca Trail at over 2km long. It is fairly rocky so take your time as you navigate the slippery terrain. It’s very easy to twist an ankle.

There are three camping areas along the beach. (See the Bear Beach Camp section below for details.) Bear Beach East Camp at Rosemund Creek is just a few minutes from the spot where the trail meets the beach.

Just past the creek, you’ll encounter your first tidal obstacle of the trail. At tides above 3m, the ocean laps up against the cliffs for half a kilometre. There is no alternate route, so you’ll have to wait at high tide. This section has lots of large slippery rocks, so take your time.

Reach Clinch Creek and Bear Beach Centre camp at the other end of the cliffs about 9.6 km from the trailhead. Clinch Creek is named after the shipwreck of the D.L. Clinch, which ran aground here in 1860. At low tide, you can see pieces of the schooner.

If you need to get off the trail in an emergency, an unmarked trail heads up the hill from the east side of Clinch Creek. It’s a 1.5 km hike with 120m of elevation gain on this trail and then an old logging road to Highway 14.

Past here, continue along the rocky beach around the corner to reach Ledingham Creek and Bear Beach West Camp at Rock on a Pillar 10.5 km from the start.

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Bear Beach Camp

There are three campsites spread out along Bear Beach.

Bear Beach East Camp is located at Rosemund Creek at 8.6 km. Find the toilet and bear cache just west of the creek. There are a few forest campsites on the way to the toilet and limited spots above the high tide line for tents.

Bear Beach Centre Camp is at 9.6 km on either side of Clinch Creek. I think this is the nicest campsite on the Juan de Fuca Trail. The outhouse and bear cache are located west of the creek, along with a few forest campsites. But the best sites are right next to Clinch Creek.

Bear Beach West Camp is at the far end of the beach next to Ledingham Creek, 10.5km from the trailhead. This camp is also known as Rock on a Pillar after the rock formation just offshore. It has a toilet and bear cache just back from the beach. There are only a few campsites here including a few hacked out of the salal and a couple of marginal sites on a flat gravel shelf on the beach.

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• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
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• Points of cultural and natural history

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Bear Beach to Chin Beach

Although this section doesn’t have any beach walking, it does have some of the most beautiful old-growth forests of Western red cedar, Sitka spruce, and Western hemlock on the entire trail.

BC Parks rates this section as the most challenging part of the Juan de Fuca. However, I can’t say I agree. Yes, it does have a lot of steep hills and a few scrambly sections. And of course tons of mud. But I think some of the sections further west are equally challenging.

BC Parks’ ratings were developed when the trail was newly built and since the trail has eroded badly in some areas, that has changed the difficulty rating.

The route to Chin beach starts with a steep climb out of the Ledingham Creek valley. The next few kilometres have several sharp ups and downs. As you reach KM 13, the trail runs next to an old logging road for a few minutes through a brief flat section.

Descend gradually to Newmarch Creek at KM 14, then climb back up onto the bluff. The rest of the hike to Chin Beach is along the top of the bluff, although you will gain and lose the same 50m over and over again.

Use caution at the crossing of an unnamed creek at KM 16.5. A muddy fixed rope can help you descend the steep and slippery bank.

Cross Lines Creek on a tall bridge just before KM 19. The trail meanders along the top of the bluff in an old-growth forest for another kilometre.

Reach the Chin Beach East Bluff Camp on the bluff above the beach at 20.5km. This is the former location of the Chin Beach emergency shelter. It was removed in 2022 and in early 2023 a few tent pads and a bear cache were installed.

This campsite is a good place to stay if you get caught by the tide or if you want to avoid the crowds at Chin Beach. However, it doesn’t have a water source so you will need to plan ahead and haul in water. There are a few smalls creek a few minutes east along the trail.

Descend the steep trail to the east end of Chin Beach. The reef shelf at 20.6km is impassable at high tides above 2.75 m, so you may have to wait. Find Chin Beach campsite near KM 21 at the centre of the beach on either side of a creek.

An emergency exit trail leaves from behind the campsite. It’s a 1.5km walk with 210 m of elevation gain to Highway 14.

Chin Beach Camp

Chin Beach has limited camping space. Plan to arrive at this campsite early to get a spot.

There is space for about 10 tents in clearings in the forest behind the beach on either side of the creek, but many of the sites are very close together. There are also several marginal sites on the gravel bench above the high tide line.

The toilets and bear cache are located just west of the creek.

There is also an overflow area on Chin Beach East Bluff at the site of the former emergency shelter, described in the section above this one.

Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach

This is one of the most challenging sections of the Juan de Fuca Trail. It has by far the biggest climb on the trail and some tricky terrain around Sombrio Point. However, it also has some beautiful ocean views and you get to cross the dramatic Loss Creek Suspension Bridge. And it has less mud than other sections.

From Chin Beach camp, walk a few hundred meters along the rocky beach and look for the buoy in the trees pointing the way to the inland trail at 21.3 km. It’s a tough scramble up a rock. At high tides, you may have to time your ascent to avoid getting your boots wet.

At tides below 1m, you can continue along the beach past here for another 0.5km, but most hikers will need to take the forest route. The two routes converge at 22.1 km.

Climb a steep hill, then head down the other side for another section of rambling trail along the top of the bluff. Reach the Loss Creek Suspension Bridge at 23.8km. This is the most dramatic bridge on the trail since it is the longest and highest. Be sure to pause in the middle to admire the view of the sea stacks at the mouth of the creek.

On the other side of the creek, the big climb begins. Follow the trail as it switchbacks up the steep slope, gaining nearly 150m. The trail joins an old road just before KM 25. It’s easy walking along here until you leave the road near KM 26. Begin a steep descent along a narrow ridge with some large old-growth trees.

Pause at Sombrio Point at 26.5km and enjoy the spectacular views. You can see Sombrio Beach ahead of you to the west.

The remaining trail to Sombrio Beach is tough and technical. Follow the trail around the point and along the top of the cliff. In some places, a wire railing protects you from the steep drop. Be careful on a scramble across wet rocks.

Watch for a pretty waterfall tumbling over the cliff. Cross the bridge above the waterfall, then begin the descent to Sombrio Beach.

Immediately after you emerge on the beach, follow a faint side trail beside a stream for a few minutes. It leads to a unique waterfall deep in a mossy canyon. You may have to wade in the creek to get a closer look but it’s worth it. Please respect this beautiful place and do not add any graffiti.

On the other side of the creek, pass the campsites at Sombrio Beach Camp Far East at KM 27 and then Sombrio Beach East Camp at 27.6 km. Reach the Sombrio Beach East tidal obstacle near KM 28 which is impassable at tides above 3m. There is no alternative route, so if you arrive at high tide you’ll have to wait it out.

Past the tidal obstacle, arrive at Sombrio Beach West Camp and the side trail to the Sombrio Beach Trailhead at KM 29. You will likely encounter lots of surfers and day-trippers here enjoying the beach. Follow the trail past an outhouse towards the parking lot.

This area is known as Qwa:qlis and was the site of a Pacheedaht village. The area was also home to a thriving community of hippies and surfers who had squatters shacks here until the 1990s.

If you need to exit the trail here, the Sombrio Beach Road is 2km long and gains 120m on its way back to Highway 14.

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Sombrio Beach Camp

The campsites at Sombrio are the most popular ones on the trail. Since it’s only a 10-minute walk from the Sombrio Beach parking lot, many camp here who aren’t doing the entire Juan de Fuca Trail. It’s also one of the best surfing spots on southern Vancouver Island.

If you want a more secluded experience stay at East Camp or Far East Camp. Most surfers and casual campers don’t bother to hike that far. We camped at Sombrio East in 2009 and it was much quieter than the partying occuring at Sombrio West.

The campsites are arranged into four main areas, but you may be able to find campsites elsewhere along the beach.

Sombrio Beach Far East Camp is located about 27km from the trailhead at the eastern end of the beach, just west of the spot where the trail leaves the beach and the hidden waterfall. There is good camping on the soft sand above the high tide line. An outhouse and bear cache are located in the brush behind the beach.

Sombrio Beach East Camp is a few hundred meters further along at 27.6km. There is lots of space for tents above the high tide line. A signed trail leads to an outhouse and food cache behind the beach.

Sombrio West Camp is the main campsite on Sombrio Beach at KM 29. This area is the most popular with casual weekend campers and surfers who don’t want to carry their gear far from the car. There are tent spots in cleared areas on the top of the bank as well as a few sites on the sand. But be careful of the high tide here! There are two outhouses and two food caches nearby on the trail to the parking lot.

Sombrio Far West Camp is the only camping area on the west side of the Sombrio River at 29.2km. It has five wooden tent platforms in the forest where the trail from the suspension bridge meets the beach. There are also a few marginal sites on the beach above the high tide line. The outhouse and bear cache are located inland along the trail to the bridge.

Sombrio Beach to Little Kuitshe Creek

The Juan de Fuca Trail between Sombrio Beach and Little Kuitshe Creek travels through a dense second-growth forest that can feel quite dark. You can often hear the ocean, but you won’t see it very much.

At the junction with the trail to the Sombrio Beach parking lot, go left towards the Sombrio River Suspension Bridge. In Spanish, Sombrio means shady. The early Spanish explorers named the river in the late 1700s. The beach and nearby Sombrio Point take their name from the river.

Cross the bridge at KM 29.2, then follow the trail on the west side back to the beach. The trail has been rerouted around a washout and is a bit rough.

Emerge on the beach at Sombrio Far West Camp at 29.3 km. Past here, the beach is very rocky, so watch your step, especially if it is wet. Encounter the Sombrio West tidal obstacle at 29.6km. At tides below 2.6m, you can stay on the beach around this cliff, but at high tides, you’ll have to wait.

Continue along the rocky beach. At KM 30.2, reach the Sombrio West-West tidal obstacle at a point. There is a 500m-long bypass trail around it through the forest if the tide is higher than 3m. You have arrived at the end of Sombrio Beach.

The trail climbs up to about 25m above sea level and stays near that elevation all the way to Kuitshe Creek. This section of the trail is in second-growth forest and salal tunnels that can be very muddy.

At KM32 cross the suspension bridge over Minute Creek, the final suspension bridge of the trail. Look up stream for a peek-a-boo view of a waterfall.

At 32.5km the trail runs closer to the edge of the cliff and you can look down into a surge channel. When big waves wash in, spray thunders out the top of the chasm.

Reach Little Kuitshe Creek Camp at KM33.

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Little Kuitshe Creek Camp

This campsite is set in a dark and scrubby patch of second-growth forest on a bluff above the ocean. You can’t see the ocean from camp, but you can follow a very steep trail to a rock outcropping above the water. Honestly, I found this campsite a little depressing, but the ocean access saved it.

The toilet and bear cache are on a spur trail uphill from the main trail and most of the campsites are on a spur trail downhill.

The campground has 7 or 8 flat spots for tents but many of them are poorly drained, so be careful in wet weather. There are also several other marginal sites where you can camp in a pinch.

To collect drinking water, continue on the main trail for a minute as it heads downhill to Little Kuitshe Creek.

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• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
• Advice for extending your trip
• Points of cultural and natural history

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Little Kuitshe Creek to Payzant Creek

BC Parks rates the section between Little Kuitshe Creek and Payzant Creek as moderate, but I think it is challenging. It features lots of eroding trail, mud holes, exposed tree roots, broken boardwalk, and wooden stairs that are dangerously falling apart. That makes travel through here quite slow.

This section features lots of short, steep hills, but you never get much higher than 50m above sea level.

Leaving Little Kuitshe Creek, you’ll encounter several sections of broken stairs and boardwalk. But after a few minutes, you’ll also get to walk through a section of old-growth forest, spared from logging many years ago.

Around KM36 the trail gets less rough as you travel on an old logging road that climbs gently. Arrive at the Parkinson Creek Trailhead at KM37, which has an outhouse. If you want to exit the trail here, the Parkinson Creek Road is 3km long and gains 190m on its way to Highway 14.

There is no designated campsite here. To continue along the Juan de Fuca Trail, walk through the parking lot and pick up the trail on the other side. Follow the trail along old logging roads, watching for the sign indicating that the trail leaves the road and heads into a tight second-growth forest.

Near KM38, the trail emerges at the shoreline. This section features a rocky reef shelf. At low tide, it can be a fun place to explore and look for tide pools.

You can walk on the reef shelf between KM38 and KM39 at low tides. Watch for marker buoys in the trees to indicate when you must leave the beach and head back into the forest.

After the reef section, head back into the forest. Decaying boardwalks and wooden stairs in this area help you across some of the mud but may also slow you down as you try to navigate the tricky terrain.

Cross a creek with a small waterfall and arrive at Payzant Creek Camp at KM40.

Payzant Creek Camp

Payzant Creek Camp is set in a lush old-growth forest and does not have beach access. I stayed here on my 2009 hike and enjoyed the giant trees, but missed having an ocean view.

It has 12 prepared tent pads spread out across two spur trails downhill from the main trail. There are also a few overflow spots, but be careful as some collect water in wet weather.

The outhouse is right next to the main trail and the food cache is a short distance away on a signed spur trail uphill. Collect drinking water from Payzant Creek just east of camp.

Payzant Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead

Continue along the trail past Payzant Creek as it descends to cross Yauh Creek on a log bridge. On the other side, watch for a spur trail heading left towards the beach at Providence Cove at KM41. Camping is not allowed on the beach here, but it makes a great place for a break.

About 41.5km from the trailhead the path emerges from the forest on a rocky reef shelf. Follow the trail along the rocks for a few minutes, then watch for a marker buoy to show you the way back to the main trail.

The trail sticks close to the ocean for the next kilometre with lots of opportunities for views. You may be tempted to walk along the rocky reef shelf, but it is very scrambly, especially if you are carrying a heavy pack.

Follow the trail as it turns inland and climbs a small hill to a bridge over Soule Creek at 43.1km. You immediately head back towards the ocean with a few short sections of decaying boardwalk to make walking a bit faster. There are some big old-growth trees in this section.

Around KM44 there is a great view of the ocean from the bluff. About 0.5km later the trail runs behind the beach. You can stay on the muddy forest trail or walk along the shoreline and explore the rock formations and tide pools.

Reach Botanical Beach at KM45. The tide pools in this area are world-famous. Try to time your visit for tides below 1m to get the full experience. The Pacheedaht call this beach łi:xwa:p and they had a village with six big-houses here.

At KM 46 leave the beach on a set of stairs and arrive at an outhouse and junction. The trail to the parking lot and trailhead heads straight uphill on an old road. The rough trail to Botany Bay and more tidal pools heads left.

Follow the main trail up the hill for 1km, gaining 75m. Arrive at the Botanical Beach Trailhead at KM47, having completed the entire Juan de Fuca Trail. There are outhouses in the parking lot near the Botany Bay trailhead.

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Juan de Fuca Trail Itineraries

Standard 4-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

I think this standard 4-day itinerary is the best one for most people. It spreads out the effort fairly evenly across the days.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Little Kuitshe Creek: 12 km (4-6 hours)

Day 4 – Little Kuitshe Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 14 km (4.5-7 hours)

Relaxed 5-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

If you want to take it a little slower, this 5-day itinerary is a good choice. This is the itinerary I used when I hiked the trail for the first time in 2009.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach: 8 km (3-4 hours)

Day 4 – Sombrio Beach to Payzant Creek: 11 km (3.5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Payzant Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 7 km (2-3 hours)

Super Relaxed 6-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

Beginner hikers, families, and those that just want to take their time and chill out will like this super-relaxed 6-day itinerary. You can also make it even more relaxed by adding a 7th day and camping at Mystic Beach on the first (or last) night.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach: 8 km (3-4 hours)

Day 4 – Sombrio Beach to Little Kuitshe Creek: 4 km (1-2 hours)

Day 5 – Little Kuitshe Creek to Payzant Creek: 7 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 6 – Payzant Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 7 km (2-3 hours)

Fast 3-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

If you want to blitz through the Juan de Fuca Trail, I recommend either of these two speedy 3-day itineraries. Option A avoids the boring forest campsites but has a punishing middle day. Option B has a brutal first day.

Option A:

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Sombrio Beach: 19.4 km (7-10 hours)

Day 3 – Sombrio Beach to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 18 km (5.5-9 hours)

Option B:

Day 1: China Beach Trailhead to Chin Beach: 21 km (6.5-10.25 hours)

Day 2: Chin Beach to Little Kuitshe Creek: 12 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3: Little Kuitshe Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 14 km (4.5-7 hours)

3-Day Eastern Half of the Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

If you have less time or just want to sample the trail, you may want to consider just hiking the eastern half between China Beach and Sombrio Beach. In my opinion, this is the nicest section of the trail anyway.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach: 8 km (3-4 hours)

Yo-yo 7-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

To avoid having to arrange transportation or to spend more days on the trail, some people opt to hike the trail from one end to the other, then turn around hike back. This is often called a yo-yo hike. Here’s a sample 7-day itinerary for yo-yo-ing the Juan de Fuca Trail.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Payzant Creek: 19 km (6.5-10 hours)

Day 4A – Day hike without gear from Payzant Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead and back to Payzant Creek: 14 km (4-6 hours)

Day 4B – Payzant Creek to Little Kuitshe Creek: 7 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 5 – Little Kuitshe Creek to Chin Beach: 12 km (4-6 hours)

Day 6 – Chin Beach to Bear Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 7 – Bear Beach to China Beach Trailhead: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

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So that’s my section-by-section breakdown of the Juan de Fuca Trail and all the info you need to choose your Juan de Fuca Trail itinerary. For your first time, I recommend the standard 4-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary. If you’re planning your hike and have questions, let me know in the comments. I’d love to help.

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READ NEXT:

• Juan de Fuca Trail Basics
• Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking
• Juan de Fuca Trail Packing List: Everything You Need to Bring
• 20+ Ways to Reduce Your Backpack Weight
• 25 Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia

MORE VANCOUVER ISLAND POSTS:

• The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• 30 Best Backpacking Trips in BC

The post Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary and Section-by-Section Overview appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

The Juan de Fuca Trail is a multi-day hike along the west coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. It is a challenging backpacking trip through the rainforest and across beaches. Along its 47 kilometre length you will experience lots of gorgeous scenery, old-growth trees, sandy beaches, and mud.

I hiked the Juan de Fuca Trail in twice (to research my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island), so I’ve put together a full Juan de Fuca Trail guide for you. It includes:

• how to get to the Juan de Fuca Trail, including driving directions and info for booking the shuttle bus
• how much it costs to hike the Juan de Fuca Trail
• key Juan de Fuca Trail safety information on wildlife, tides, and drinking water
• information on the history and indigenous context of the Juan de Fuca Trail

WANT MORE JUAN DE FUCA TRAIL INFO? Check out these posts:

• Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary and Section-by-Section Overview
• Juan de Fuca Trail Packing List
• Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Juan de Fuca Trail Quick Facts

Location: The southwest coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. The closest towns are Port Renfrew and Sooke.

Distance: Officially 47 kilometres, but probably a little bit more.

Difficulty: Challenging

Time: 3-5 days

Cost: $30 + transportation

Best Time to Go: May to September (but the trail is open year-round and is on my list of the best spring backpacking trips in BC)

Juan de Fuca Trail Description

Officially known as the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, the Juan de Fuca Trail (JDF) is a 47 kilometre long coastal trail that runs along the southwest coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. It is located just south of the West Coast Trail.

It is a rugged backcountry route that travels up and down hills through dense rainforest and along sections of beach. The Juan de Fuca hike has steep terrain and lots of rain, so it can be very muddy with lots of technical and treacherous trail.

READ NEXT: Juan de Fuca Trail Section-by-Section Overview

How Long is the Juan de Fuca Trail?

The official length of the Juan de Fuca Trail is 47 kilometres. That is the distance from the eastern trailhead at China Beach to the western trailhead at Botanical Beach. However, my GPS recorded a total distance of about 50.7km.

As well, the shuttle bus stop in Port Renfrew is 3.2 km away from the Botanical Beach trailhead, so that can add extra distance to your hike.

How Difficult is the Juan de Fuca Trail?

The Juan de Fuca Trail is fairly challenging. Compared to other coastal trails in BC like the West Coast Trail or the North Coast Trail, it has lots of hills, which are a workout. In total, you will climb about 1,400m of elevation gain, even though you are never far from the coast.

There are not as many beach sections as on some other coastal trails. However, the beaches are mostly easy walking.

It also has some sections of very technical terrain with lots of slippery tree roots and mud pits. In many sections, the aging infrastructure has not been repaired, making travel across broken staircases and boardwalks dangerous.

But it also has long sections of well-maintained inland trail that are very easy to walk.

In general, I think the Juan de Fuca Trail is much easier than the North Coast Trail. It about the same difficulty the West Coast Trail. Some hikers find in harder than the WCT due to the elevation gain and the broken infrastructure. I think that the mud bogs and ladders of the WCT make the JDF stack up evenly against it, but of course, everyone has their own opinion.

The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail is known for its muddy sections, but in my experience, it is not as muddy as the West Coast Trail and definitely not as muddy as the North Coast Trail.

Storms change the JDF each year, adding to the difficulty. Check the BC Parks website before you go for the latest conditions and closures.

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Best Time to Hike the Juan de Fuca Trail

The hike is open year-round. However, the best months to hike the Juan de Fuca Trail are May through September since those months are warmer and have less rain.

April and October can also have pockets of good weather, which is why the JDF is one of the best spring backpacking trips in British Columbia. The winter months are often wet, cold, and stormy, but a few people do hike the trail between November and March.

If you plan to use the shuttle bus (see info below), keep in mind that it only runs between May and September.

The trail is very prone to storm damage and in washouts and downed trees are common, especially in the fall, winter, and spring. The trail is often closed for repairs in the spring so you may have to wait until late May for BC Parks crews to reopen it.

If possible, try to avoid hiking the Juan de Fuca Trail on long weekends as it can become very crowded and you will have a hard time finding a place to camp. July and August are by far the busiest months.

How Many Days is the Juan de Fuca Trail?

Most people take between 3 and 5 days to hike the Juan de Fuca Trail. I have hiked twice taking 5 days the first time and 4 the second time. I think that 4 days is the right amount of time for most people.

READ NEXT: Juan de Fuca Trail 4-Day Itinerary and More Itinerary Options

Which Direction to Hike the Juan de Fuca Trail?

The JDF starts and ends at Botanical Beach near Port Renfrew and at China Beach near Sooke. The trail runs roughly from Botanical Beach in the northwest to China Beach in the southeast.

BC Parks refers to the trail as running east to west so that is how I will describe it in this post. However, you may find other info online referring to Botanical Beach in the north and China Beach in the south.

There is no preferred direction to hike the Juan de Fuca Trail, and the hikers I surveyed were split nearly 50/50 on which direction they preferred. Both times I hiked the Juan de Fuca, we started in the west at Botanical Beach.

The hardest part of the trail is in the middle, so unlike the West Coast Trail, there isn’t an “easier” or a “more difficult” trailhead.

Which direction you hike the trail may depend on whether or not you use the Juan de Fuca bus service. I prefer to take the shuttle first, then hike back to my car. The easiest way to do that is to park at the eastern trailhead, get the shuttle in the morning, then hike the Juan de Fuca from west to east.

You can also complete half of the trail by starting at Sombrio Beach, roughly in the middle.

Juan de Fuca Permits

Unlike the West Coast Trail, the Juan de Fuca trail does not have a reservation system. All campsites are first-come, first-served and there is no limit to how many hikers can be on the trail.

However, you must purchase a backcountry camping permit for $10/person/night. You can buy a permit on the BC Parks website up to 2 weeks before your trip. You can also bring cash and pay at the trailhead.

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

How Much Does the Juan de Fuca Trail Cost?

The short answer: The Juan de Fuca Trail costs about $30 per person + transportation

The long answer: It depends. Likely $60-135.

The main factor affecting cost is the number of nights you spend on the trail. Most hikers will spend three nights on the trail at $10 per night, for a total of $30/person.

The other factor is the shuttle bus. If you can arrange your own transportation to and from both trailheads, you won’t have any other expenses. But if you take the shuttle between trailheads or to and from Victoria, you will have extra expenses.

For example, the cheapest option is to drive yourself to one trailhead, then take the shuttle bus to the other. The fare for bus rides between China Beach and Port Renfrew is $30/person.

However, if you want to take the Juan de Fuca bus from Victoria to China Beach, and then from Port Renfrew back to Victoria, the fare is $105/person.

See the shuttle bus section below for more details.

How to Get to the Juan de Fuca Trail

Getting to the JDF and between trailheads is fairly easy. You can drive yourself, take the Juan de Fuca Trail shuttle bus, or hire a taxi. Info on each of those options is below. Many hikers report that hitchhiking is also easy, although it is technically illegal.

If you drive yourself, plan to spend some extra time exploring the area. The route to the trailheads is on the Pacific Marine Circle Route, one of the best road trips on Vancouver Island.

READ NEXT: The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route

Driving Directions to the China Beach Trailhead

From Victoria, take Highway 1 west, then follow Highway 14 west through Sooke. A few minutes after the town of Jordan River, pass the entrance to the China Beach campground. Make your next left into the parking lot, following signs for the China Beach Day Use Area.

Driving Directions to the Sombrio Beach Trailhead

From Victoria, take Highway 1 west, then follow Highway 14 west. A few minutes after you pass the China beach turn off, look for signs for the Sombrio Beach trailhead on your left. This steep gravel road descends to the trailhead over 2km. It can be very rough so go slow.

Note that this road may be closed on long weekends to prevent partying at Sombrio Beach. There is no parking on the highway, but you can get dropped off and walk down the road into the park.

Driving Directions to Parkinson Creek Trailhead

From Victoria, take Highway 1 west, then follow Highway 14 west. A few minutes after you pass the Sombrio Beach turn off, look for signs for the Parkinson Creek trailhead on your left. This gravel road descends to the trailhead over 3km. It is usually in good condition.

Driving Directions to the Botanical Beach Trailhead

From Victoria, take Highway 1 west, then follow Highway 14 west to the end of the highway near the Port Renfrew pub. Turn left onto Cerantes Road and follow it to its end at the Botanical Beach trailhead 3.2 km away.

From Nanaimo, take Highway 1 south, then highway 18 west to Lake Cowichan. In Lake Cowichan, take South Shore Road through town, then turn left on Pacific Marine Road. Follow it for 50 km, then turn left onto Deering Road and take that into Port Renfrew. Turn right on Highway 14 (Parkinson Road) and follow it to the Port Renfrew pub. Turn left onto Cerantes Road and follow it to its end at the Botanical Beach trailhead.

Trailhead Parking

All of the official trailheads have free parking, but unfortunately, break-ins are common. Do not leave anything of value in your vehicle. The parking lots can get very full on long weekends.

Juan de Fuca Trail Bus

The West Coast Trail Express runs a shuttle bus service between Victoria and all trailheads for the Juan de Fuca Trail. (It passes by the Juan de Fuca on the way to the West Coast Trail and serves both trails on each run.) Since it’s so easy to get to the Juan de Fuca Trail, it’s on my list of the best car-free backpacking trips in BC.

It runs once a day in each direction. In the morning it goes from Victoria in the southeast to Bamfield in the northwest, passing the JDF trailheads between 8 and 9am. In the afternoon, it runs from Bamfield back to Victoria, passing the Juan de Fuca trailheads between 5:45 and 6:45pm. See their website for the latest schedule.

You can take the bus round-trip from Victoria to any trailhead, and back again. Or you can drive yourself to one trailhead and catch the Juan de Fuca Trail shuttle bus to another trailhead.

All shuttle bus stops are on the highway. At China Beach, it’s a 200m walk from the trailhead to the highway. Sombrio Beach is a 2km walk from the highway. At Parkinson Creek, it’s a 3km walk. Botanical Beach is a 3.2km walk from the highway.

Taxi to the Juan de Fuca Trail

If the trail bus schedule doesn’t work for you or you want to hike the trail in the winter when the shuttle isn’t running, you can take a taxi to the trailhead with Orange Taxi in Sooke.

Juan de Fuca Trail Maps and Books

For the most part, navigation on the Juan de Fuca Trail is very easy. There are signs at key intersections and numbered kilometre posts along the way to mark your progress.

BC Parks publishes a good Juan de Fuca Trail map that is helpful to have on the trail. It has info on distances between landmarks as well as the locations of sections of beach that are cut off a high tide. Print it out and bring it with you.

The map also assigns a difficulty rating to each section. However, those difficulty ratings were developed when the trail was newly constructed. Over the years erosion and failing infrastructure have changed the character of the trail and I don’t think the difficulty ratings are still accurate. My section-by-section overview has my assessment of current difficulty ratings.

READ NEXT: Juan de Fuca Trail Section-by-Section Overview

On my trip, I also used the Gaia GPS app. It was really helpful for tracking our progress, especially during the long inland sections that seemed to go by really slowly. (Psst! Want to save 20% off a premium Gaia annual membership, which includes the maps I used on my trip? Use this link.)

You can find more information about the Juan de Fuca hike in several books. The most detailed one is Giant Cedars, White Sands by Donald C. Mills. It is out of print and a bit dated, but it’s still a good resource. My book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island also has a Juan de Fuca Trail section.

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• Detailed maps and photos
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• Points of cultural and natural history

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What to Pack for the Juan de Fuca Trail

You will need to be totally self-sufficient on the JDF and carry in everything you will need for your trip. The last places to buy supplies are Sooke near the eastern trailhead and Port Renfrew near the western trailhead.

To avoid carrying a stupidly heavy pack, choose lightweight hiking gear rather than heavy conventional camping gear. The lighter you can get your pack, the happier you will be. In general, aim for a pack weight that is 1/3 to 1/4 of your body weight or less. Read my tips for reducing your pack weight.

The weather on the coast is also often very wet so be sure to pack accordingly.

For lots more information, check out my West Coast Trail packing list, since the gear list is identical to what you’ll need to pack for a Juan de Fuca Trail hike. It’s a complete guide to everything you need to bring including specific gear recommendations from my hikes.

READ NEXT: West Coast Trail Packing List

Camping on the Juan de Fuca Trail

There are six official campgrounds on the Juan de Fuca Trail. They all have:

• pit toilet(s)
• access to fresh drinking water from a nearby creek
• metal food storage locker(s)
• cleared campsites in the forest AND/OR campsites on the beach sand (Be sure to pitch your tent WELL above the high tide line.)

My Section-by-Section Overview has full details on each campground.

All campsites are first-come, first-served. At busy times of the year, some of the campgrounds can get full. As well, some campgrounds have very little food locker space so store your food early or be prepared to hang it.

You are not allowed to camp elsewhere along the trail, but in practice, this would be close to impossible anyway. The forest is thick with few flat clearings. And besides the designated beach campsites, most other beaches are inundated with water at high tide.

READ NEXT: Juan de Fuca Section-by-Section Overview

Drinking-Water Sources on the Juan de Fuca Trail

Unlike some other coastal trails in BC, such as the North Coast Trail, there are plenty of freshwater sources along the Juan de Fuca Trail. But all of the water flows down from the highway and logging operations up-slope, so you should treat all water by purifying, filtering, or boiling it.

You will reach a creek every few kilometres (and in some areas much more often than that). However, some are down in deep gullies and hard to access.

Tides on the Juan de Fuca Trail

You will need to bring a tide table and pay attention to the tides on the Juan de Fuca Trail. Use the Port Renfrew tide table available from Fisheries and Oceans Canada. Make sure you print out the predicted tide height for each hour of the day. It’s much more helpful than just using the daily highs and lows.

There are a few tidal obstacles on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail where the beach is impassable at high tides. The main tidal obstacles are located at Bear Beach, Chin Beach, and Sombrio Beach.

When hiking beach sections, watch for coloured fishing buoys hanging in the trees. They mark the exits from the beach onto the forest trail. For full details, see my section-by-section Juan de Fuca Trail hike overview.

You will also want to refer to tide tables when you camp on the beach to ensure that you pitch your tent well above the high tide line. Look at the line of seaweed on the beach to estimate how high the last tide came up.

Juan de Fuca Trail Weather

Before your trip, check the weather forecasts for Port Renfrew and Jordan River, the two communities closest to the trail.

June, July, August, and September are the warmest months on the Juan de Fuca Trail with lows of 11-13°C and highs of 18-22°C. Winter temperatures between November and April are typically 3-12°C.

July is the driest month, with about 59mm of rain on average. August (85mm) and June (103mm) are also fairly dry. The spring and fall months can also have periods of good weather, but are wetter – May sees about 154mm of rain and September gets 149mm. The winter months are very wet with between 246 and 552mm falling each month between October and April.

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

How to Stay Safe on the Juan de Fuca Trail

The JDF tackles some pretty rugged terrain. And the trail is in a remote area where getting help takes time. Make sure you are physically and mentally prepared. Take a first aid kit.

Consider bringing a satellite messenger or marine radio because there is no cell reception. I brought my Garmin inReach Mini on my 2021 Juan de Fuca hike. Thankfully we didn’t need it, but I did use it on the North Coast Trail to assist a pair of hikers who were unprepared for the difficulty of the terrain.

Leave a trip plan at home with a friend or family member. That way someone knows where you are going and when you expect to be back.

Be prepared to turn back or stop and make camp if the weather gets too bad or you are having difficulty with the hike. If you keep pushing forward, you may just make your situation worse by injuring yourself. Most injuries on the trail happen when the weather is bad or hikers are tired. (Or both!)

Take extra time on stairs, boardwalks, and bridges. Watch your step on any wooden structure – they can be REALLY slippery or have exposed nails. And in many places they are rotting and can collapse.

Use caution at cliff edges. There was a fatality on the clifftops near Bear Beach in 2004.

Be careful crossing streams. Make sure they aren’t flooding and if possible, cross at low tide.

Keep your tide table handy and consult it along with your map whenever you choose a beach route. Only take the official marked beach routes – other routes have dangerous cliffs and surge channels.

Step carefully on beaches. Many have slick sandstone that can be very slippery. Others have lots of round rocks where it is easy to twist your ankle.

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Wildlife on the Juan de Fuca Trail

The Juan de Fuca Trail hike is a remote wilderness area so it’s home to lots of wildlife. You might encounter a black bear, wolf, or cougar. On my trips I saw lots of bear scat and a few bears. I’ve heard reports that in some years there have been habituated bears hanging around some of the campgrounds, but I didn’t experienced that.

To minimize the risk of a negative encounter, hike in groups, make lots of noise, and carry bear spray just in case. At campgrounds, store your food and toiletries in the bear bins and camp well away from your cooking area.

READ NEXT: Bear Safety for Hikers, Campers and Backpackers

Mice can also be a problem at many campgrounds so don’t keep anything in your pack or tent.

There is also lots of marine life just offshore along the JDF. There are lots of curious seals and sea lions surfacing along the beaches and you can even spot whales and porpoises.

My husband uses a compact GoSky Titan monocular that he found on Amazon. It’s pretty light and not too expensive, but it still has 12×50 magnification.

Juan de Fuca Trail Rules

Dogs: BC Parks allows dogs on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail as long as they are on a leash. However, they also caution that the backcountry is not suitable for dogs due to wildlife issues. The trail includes lots of steep and scrambly terrain, so it’s best for experienced dogs with responsible owners only.

Beachcombing: You aren’t allowed to take home anything natural from the trail. That includes shells, rocks, sand, wood, etc. However, you are encouraged to take home anything man-made, such as fishing floats.

Smoking, vaping, and cannabis: Smoking tobacco and cannabis, using e-cigarettes, and vaping are not permitted on the Juan de Fuca Trail or in any BC Park.

Drones: Drones are not allowed on the Juan de Fuca Trail or in any BC Parks without a specific permit, issued only to licenced drone pilots.

Campfires: Campfires are allowed on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail on the beach below the high tide line as long as there is no fire ban for that part of Vancouver Island. Fires are not allowed at any of the forest campsites. (Check the BC Fire Ban website before you go. The JDF is in the Coastal Region.)

Build your campfire below the high tide line. Make a small fire and don’t burn big logs so that there is lots of wood left for everyone. Recently I learned that burning driftwood can create toxic smoke from the salt build-up in the logs. So you may want to skip the campfire entirely.

When you are done, use water to douse your fire to make sure it is completely out. Don’t smother your fire with sand. It can continue to smoulder under the sand and can injure people. During my 2020 trip to Cape Scott, a 12-year-old boy had to be evacuated by helicopter after he burned his foot by stepping in embers from an old campfire!

Juan de Fuca Trail Hiking Tips

Coastal hiking and backpacking are a lot different than hiking in the forest or mountains. Head on over to my coastal hiking tips post. After over 15 coastal hiking trips to beaches in British Columbia and Washington, I’ve got tons of coastal hiking pointers for you… including how to cope with the EPIC MUD!

READ NEXT: Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking

Indigenous Context on the Juan de Fuca Trail

Indigenous people have lived in this area of Vancouver Island along the present-day Juan de Fuca Trail since time immemorial. The area is in the traditional territory of the Pacheedaht people. The word “Pacheedaht” translates to “Children of the Sea Foam”.

Before European colonization, the Pacheedaht had several village sites in the area including Qwa:qłis, a seasonal village at what is today known as Sombrio Beach. The location benefited from a salmon-bearing river with lots of access to ocean fishing and edible plants.

There were also Pacheedaht villages at Botanical Beach (łi:xwa:p) and China Beach (Tł’ehib).

Juan de Fuca Trail History

The Indigenous Pacheedaht people have lived along the coast since time immemorial. Juan de Fuca (born Apostolos Valerianos), a Greek explorer working for the Spanish sailed up the coast from Mexico in 1592 and was likely the first European to visit the area. In 1787 a British expedition officially named the Strait after Juan de Fuca.

European ships frequently wrecked in this area in the late 1800s thanks to the fog and rough conditions. This part of the coast became known as the “Graveyard of the Pacific”.

In 1899 a telegraph line was constructed between Bamfield and Victoria. The West Coast Trail and Juan de Fuca Trail both have their origins as a path to service the line.

By the 1960s a small squatter community of surfers lived in shacks at Sombrio Beach. As the West Coast Trail became more popular in the late 1970s and 80s, local hikers started exploring other areas of the coast. Members of the Victoria Sierra Club lobbied to have the area around the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail protected.

At the time, extensive logging was occurring and the club brought several lawsuits to try to stop it. In the 1990s the provincial government acquired the land. It was formally declared a park in 1995 as part of the legacy around the 1994 Commonwealth Games in Victoria.

While a few repairs have been completed in the intervening years, most of the park’s wooden infrastructure is from the late 1990s and is showing its age.

Where to Stay Near the Juan de Fuca Trail

China Beach Campground: Forested campground in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park a few minutes from the China Beach trailhead with 79 campsites, most of which you can reserve. The campground is open from mid-May to early September. More info

Prestige Oceanfront Resort: Waterfront resort hotel with great views of Sooke Harbour. It’s a 40-minute drive to the China Beach Trailhead. Check prices

Wild Renfrew Seaside Cottages: Gorgeous cabins with porches that are steps from the surf in ‘downtown’ Port Renfrew. I loved my stay here a few years ago. It’s a 5-minute drive to Botanical Beach Trailhead. Check prices

Trailhead Resort: Budget hiker-friendly accommodations near ‘downtown’ Port Renfrew and a 5-minute drive to Botanical Beach Trailhead. Check prices

Pacheedaht Campground: Beautiful campground with beach and ocean sites a few minutes from Port Renfrew and a 15-minute drive from the Botanical Beach Trailhead. More info: (250) 647-0090

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The Juan de Fuca Trail is a great alternative to the West Coast Trail or the North Coast Trail since it is much easier to get to, doesn’t require reservations, and is much less expensive. It also has some of the best old-growth coastal forests you can visit in BC along with beautiful coastal scenery.

This post and its companion, the section-by-section overview of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, should give you all the info you need to have a safe and fun hike. If you have questions about the Juan de Fuca Trail, ask them in the comments. I’d love to help!

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

READ NEXT:

• Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary and Section-by-Section Overview
• Coastal Hike Packing List: Everything You Need to Bring
• 20+ Ways to Reduce Your Backpack Weight
• Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking
• 25 Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia
• How to Go Backpacking in BC Without Reservations
• How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

MORE VANCOUVER ISLAND BACKPACKING TRIPS POSTS:

• Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• Tatchu Trail Guide: Vancouver Island Coastal Backpacking
• Sunshine on the Edge of the World: Nootka Trail Trip Report
• 30 Best Backpacking Trips in BC

The post Juan De Fuca Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I’ve put together a section-by-section overview of the North Coast Trail to give you a taste of the trail and help you get prepped for your trip. It’s got info on distances, difficult, hiking times, and things you won’t want to miss for each section. There are also loads of photos! I also have step-by-step North Coast Trail itineraries for the standard 6-day trip, plus lots more shorter and longer itinerary options.

Use this North Coast Trail itinerary and section-by-section overview to help you plan your trip. It includes:

• details on what each section is like including distances, time to complete, and must-sees
• info on each campsite and trailhead
• itinerary for a standard 6-day trip plus seven more itinerary options

WANT MORE NORTH COAST TRAIL INFO? Check out these posts:

• North Coast Trail Basics
• North Coast Trail Packing List: Everything You Need to Bring
• Cape Scott Trail Guide – add a side trip to your North Coast Trail trip

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Key Distances on the North Coast Trail

A Quick Note: I’ve chosen to layout this guide from east to west because most hikers travel in the trail in that direction. As anyone who has hiked the trail with GPS can tell you, the distances that BC Parks gives for each section can be much longer than hikers will experience. So for each North Coast Trail section below, I’ve given the “official distance”. You may find that you travel much further than the official distance!

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Shushartie Bay Trailhead and Camp

The Shushartie Bay Trailhead is on the west side of Shushartie Bay. The only way to reach the trailhead is by boat. There is no dock. The water taxi operator will nose the boat against a large rock and hikers will clamber directly onto the shore. The rocks are covered in barnacles and slippery seaweed, so it’s an exciting start to the trail. See the North Coast Trail Water Taxi section of my North Coast Trail Guide for details.

The small Shushartie Bay Camp is located two minutes up the trail from the trailhead. It is seldom used but is helpful in an emergency. It has three tent pads, a pit toilet, and a food cache. The campsite is set into a steep slope in dark forest.

There is no official water source here, but I’ve heard that you can get water by heading northwest along the coast at low tide for 15 minutes to the second of two beaches. Since water is so hard to access here, it’s best to arrive on the water taxi with full bottles.

Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek

The first section of trail is entirely inland – you won’t see the ocean again until you emerge at Skinner Creek. Travel through this section can be very slow due to a steep initial ascent and some very technical trail. Give yourself lots of time. While you will be walking through mud bog, there are no good creeks for water until Skinner Creek.

From the trailhead sign, you’ll climb steeply uphill past the Shushartie Bay Camp, using a few fixed rope handlines to help you. The first kilometre is the steepest, which will be further exacerbated by full backpacks.

The grade eases after about one kilometre as you begin a more gentle ascent. You have reached the upland bog portion of the trail with open grassy meadows, stunted trees, and lots of standing, murky water. You can look forward to fast travel on many sections of weathered gray boardwalk.

Unfortunately, travel is much slower where there is no boardwalk as wet ground creates huge mud pits, some of which might just be bottomless. Use trekking poles to probe below the surface to find tree roots, discarded planks, and rocks to stand on. If possible, avoid braiding the trail to prevent further damage to this unique ecosystem.

Reach the trail’s highpoint at a lofty 245 metres about 2.5km from the trailhead. The trail continues to alternate between boardwalks and deep mud as it heads slowly downhill towards the coast. Watch for a sign on your right near the 4 km mark announcing the halfway point. Past here, the trail gets slightly easier, even though the mud is still relentless.

About 8km from the trailhead you’ll walk the last boardwalk and start your descent into coastal forest. As you begin to hear the ocean, head downhill on a staircase to Skinner Creek. Follow the creekbed to the beach, ducking under fallen logs along the way. (Look for flagging to choose the best route.)

Skinner Creek Camp

The Skinner Creek Camp is a welcome sight after the struggle through the inland section. It’s a wide sand and pebble beach with views of Hope Island across Goletas Channel. At night, look for the blinking navigation light on Godkin Point.

There is a small clearing in the forest on the way to the outhouse that will hold one tent. Otherwise, the best camping is on the beach. The sandbars on either side of the creek make great campsites. You can also camp above the high tide line, although there are not as many flat spots.

The food cache and outhouse are located down a short trail on the west side of the creek. Collect drinking water from the creek, but be sure to go upstream to avoid contamination from the many seagulls.

Skinner Creek to Nahwitti River

Leaving Skinner Creek you can walk the first kilometre on the beach if the tide is in your favour. At high tides (over about 2.8 metres) the beach is inaccessible as a tidal obstacle and you’ll have to take a rough forest route that heads uphill behind the outhouse. Apparently, the forest trail passes the remains of an old settler cabin, but I’ve never taken that route so I haven’t visited it.

At the end of Skinner Beach look for fishing buoys marking the steep, rope-assisted climb into the forest. The next section rambles through the forest and incorporates a few sections of old settler’s corduroy road, made from stacking logs parallel to each other. Thanks to the long-ago labours of the settlers, this section isn’t too muddy.

The trail emerges from the forest onto a gravel beach. Walk down the beach for about half a kilometre to reach the Nahwitti River Camp, just east of the river mouth. On my most recent trip, we were treated to the sight of humpback whales and sea otters feeding in the kelp beds just offshore. The river estuary is also a common place to see bears and seabirds.

Nahwitti River Camp

If you caught an early water taxi and are a strong hiker, Nahwitti River Camp is a good option for your first night. It tends to be much quieter than Skinner Creek so you might have it to yourself. There are four tent pads in the forest behind the beach along with an outhouse and food cache. You can also camp on the beach but it may be too sloped to be comfortable.

To find drinking water, follow the trail into the forest for a few minutes to the banks of the Nahwitti River. Try to get water at low tide to avoid saltwater. Do not collect water near the river mouth since it is too salty.

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Backpacking on Vancouver Island

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• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
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Nahwitti River to Cape Sutil

Leaving Nahwitti River Camp, the first kilometre is an easy walk through the forest inland along the east bank of the Nahwitti River. Cross the river using the cable car, the first of two on the route. After the cable car, the trail follows the west bank of the Nahwitti River for a few minutes before climbing back up into the forest. The next few kilometres take you up and over a 120m-high-hill.

About 4km from Nahwitti River Camp you’ll start to hear the ocean again as you descend over 200 wooden stairs at Long Leg Hill and emerge onto pebbly Tripod Beach. The cliffs at the west side of the beach are impassable at tides above about 2.5 metres and there is no inland trail. Be sure to time your hike well or else you could be stuck waiting here for hours. Thankfully when we had to wait for the tides on my most recent trip it was a beautiful sunny day and we had a great time playing cards! (See my North Coast Trail Guide for info on tide tables for the North Coast Trail.)

If you do get stuck on the beach overnight there is room for one or two tents above the high tide mark and a creek in the centre of the beach for drinking water. There is no food cache here so be prepared to hang your food. There is also no outhouse so use Leave No Trace practices if you go to the bathroom.

Once you are past the cliffs, take a minute to ogle at the unique three-legged basalt Tripod rock that gives the beach its name. The remainder of the hike to Cape Sutil is very challenging as you ascend steep headlands with fixed ropes, then plunge back down to pocket beaches before doing it all again. Take your time and be careful on the ropes and muddy slopes. A fall here could mean serious injury.

At low tides, you may be able to skirt around some of the headlands on the beach, but use caution as many of them have very slippery cobblestones.

After the final headland, you’ll break out onto a beautiful sandy beach. Walk a few hundred meters to the Cape Sutil Camp at the west end of the beach.

Cape Sutil Camp

The campsite at Cape Sutil is located at the west end of the sandy beach, which is great for swimming. Cape Sutil is the northernmost point on Vancouver Island, but unfortunately, you cannot visit it since it is inside the Nahwitti First Nations reserve and off-limits to visitors. Please be respectful of this indigenous site. See the Indigenous context section of my North Coast Trail guide or the excellent book, Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail by Maria I. Bremner for more information. You can follow a short trail over a headland to the next beach where the water taxi lands, but do not proceed further.

There are lots of places to camp along the beach above the high tide line, but the best tent spots are towards the west end of the beach. There is a pit toilet and bear cache a few minutes along the main trail leading west from the beach. There is also another bear cache behind the beach about 1/3 of the way down from the end. It’s marked with a small sign that can be easy to miss.

The water source at this beach is not always obvious. Look for buoys or flagging about halfway down the beach. Follow a short trail into the forest to access a small pool. In early season or after heavy rains, the creek may also flow directly onto the beach.

There is also a BC Parks yurt near the west end of the beach. The yurt used to open to the public in the winter, but that is no longer the case.

Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight)

The route between Cape Sutil and Shuttleworth Bight is mostly on the beach, but there are also lots of short and difficult inland forest sections. The trail leaving Cape Sutil cuts across the neck of the cape for about half a kilometre before emerging on the first of many steep gravel beaches. Follow hanging buoys into the forest at the end of the beach to find the 100-metre-long trail to the next beach.

This cycle repeats a few more times: walk through a pocket cove, then through the forest. Some of the beach sections have inland trail alternatives you can use at high tide, but they tend to be quite overgrown. About 2km from Cape Sutil, make sure you take the last exit from the beach into the forest as the coast past here is impassable. All of the exits from the beach are steep, with ropes to help you up the slope.

Follow the trail up into the forest. You’ll be inland for about 700m as you navigate a steep climb and lots of mud. Next, you’ll pop out into a pocket cove, then head back into the forest for about 200m. After that, you have a kilometre-long stretch of beach. This stretch is like many you will encounter today: steeply pitched with lots of driftwood and seaweed above the storm tide line.

The beach ends with a few meters of forest walking to round a point about 3.5km from Cape Sutil. After that, follow buoys across several rocky headlands and through pocket coves for another few kilometres. The forest trails are often steep and challenging, and the beach walking is not easy, but the scenery is beautiful.

About 5.5km from Cape Sutil, you begin a long beach section. The remainder of your hike to Irony Creek on Shuttleworth Bight is on the beach, except for a few very short forest sections to get around rocky outcroppings. At around 7.5km you will round a point and enter Shuttleworth Bight. The eastern part of the bight has some small sandy coves, but push on to the broader expanse of sand on the east side and the excellent campsite at Irony Creek.

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Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) Camp

The Irony Creek Camp is the most beautiful campsite on the North Coast Trail. It’s set in the middle of sandy Shuttleworth Bight and makes a great place for a rest day if you choose to take one. The campsite is located on the west side of the creek, which provides great (if red-tinged) drinking water.

There are four tent pads, a toilet, and a bear cache in the forest just west of the creek. You’ll have to scramble over a big pile of driftwood to access them. There are also great beach campsites in the sand amongst the driftwood to the west.

Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek

Thankfully, the section from Irony Creek to Laura Creek is mostly on the beach. However, most of the beaches have fairly tricky footing with lots of cobblestones, driftwood, seaweed, and steep angles. For the easiest walking, look for a faint boot-beaten path at the high tide line.

Use caution in this section as it sees a LOT of bear activity. On our most recent hike we spotted 39!!! piles of fresh bear scat on this stretch and saw three bears. All of the other hikers we met had numerous bear encounters here too. (Read my bear safety tips for backpackers.)

Leaving the Irony Creek Camp, you’ll start with about 1.5 kilometres of easy walking across the sand of Shuttleworth Bight. Towards the end of the beach, follow floats to find the forest exit. The trail heads along the east bank of the Stranby River for a few hundred meters to the Stranby River cable car. Unfortunately, the water here is too salty to drink.

Cross the cable car and follow the trail for another 1.5 kilometres of relatively easy walking through the forest. Your path parallels the river but it is rarely visible. The next section connects numerous pocket coves with short overland trails in a two-kilometre-long stretch.

About 7 kilometres from Irony Creek you will round a headland as trail starts to head more southwest. You have arrived at a beautiful sandy beach, nicknamed Wolftrack Beach or Sunny Bay by many hikers. There is a small stream here and the flat sand makes this one of the most popular unofficial campsites on the trail. If you stay here, be sure you know how to construct a bear hang and go to the bathroom the Leave No Trace way.

Past Wolftrack Beach the beach walking gets a bit more tiring as the gravel beaches are often steeply slanted, making hiking uncomfortable. Be sure to pay attention to your feet as blisters are common on this type of terrain. (Read my tips for preventing and treating blisters.) If the tide is low, try walking on the sand or rock shelf near the surf as it is more level.

At the end of the beach, head back into the forest for a short trail section and a few more pocket coves. About 2km past Wolftrack beach, reach Christensen Point, marked with a cluster of hanging fishing floats. From here it’s a straight shot down the beach to Laura Creek. This section is non-technical beach walking along the gravel but can feel very tiring after a long day on the trail.

Laura Creek Camp

You’ll arrive at Laura Creek first, your drinking water source. There are a few small campsites on the beach on the west side of the creek above the high tide line. However, use caution as they are very close to the surf at high tides and can get washed out if the creek floods.

The main campsite with four tent platforms, a bear cache, and toilet is located in the forest about three hundred meters west. One of the tent platforms is located right next to the bear cache and in the middle of the path to the toilet and other sites, so it’s not ideal.

The sites are in dense old-growth forest and are well sheltered from the elements, but the forest can seem dark and oppressive. This is the only site on the trail with limited beach camping so you may want to arrive early to make sure you get a spot.

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• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
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• Points of cultural and natural history

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Laura Creek to Nissen Bight

Today’s hike is mostly inland as it follows old settlers road up and around Nahwitti Cone. Start by walking 1 kilometre along the beach from Laura Creek, before following the buoys into the forest. The trail gains elevation immediately up a well-constructed staircase, then continues more gently uphill through muddy upland bog along the old settler’s trail.

About 2.5km from Laura Creek the trail crosses several branches of Dakota Creek, which is a good place to get drinking water. The main crossing is a massive log bridge, which is a fun photo-op. The next crossing doesn’t have a bridge so you will have to rock-hop across. Follow flagging tape for the best route.

After the creek crossings, the trail heads uphill again to a bit of a plateau around Laughing Loon Lake around 4km from Laura Creek. The lake itself is very marshy so don’t plan to swim or get drinking water here. There are lots of good boardwalks through this section, but some epic mud bogs too.

Leaving the lakeshore, the trail begins a slow descent to the beach. This section is a bit more challenging with lots of mud, puddles, roots, and slippery sections. It can be slow going through here, which is even more frustrating since you are almost at the end! Once you can hear the ocean and are on the stairs, you’ll know you are close.

About 6.5km from Laura Creek, you will finally emerge on the beach at the east end of Nissen Bight. If you plan to camp here and need drinking water, follow a trail to the right just before the beach. If you are pressing on, walk along the wide sand beach for another kilometre to find the Nissen Bight Camp and the junction with the Cape Scott Trail.

Nissen Bight Camp

Nissen Bight is a wide expanse of sand. There are two main camping areas. The camping area at the east end of the beach has a new bear cache and outhouse. It is also close to the water source, which is on a short, marked side trail through the forest near the entrance to the North Coast Trail.

There is another, older camping area at the west end of the beach near the junction with the Cape Scott Trail. There are lots of established campsites amongst the driftwood above the high tideline. The food cache and outhouse are located a few meters down the trail to Cape Scott. However, if you camp here you’ll have to walk 1 km to the east end of the beach to find water.

Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trailhead

For a more detailed description of the Cape Scott Trail and the Fisherman River and Eric Lake campgrounds, see my Cape Scott Trail guide.

Leaving Nissen Bight, follow the wide trail through the salal. After about 2 minutes, a trail branches off to the right to Fisherman Bay, where you can get picked up by Cape Scott Water Taxi.

The remainder of the 2 kilometre walk to the junction with the Cape Scott Trail is along an old settler’s road that climbs gently uphill. In wet weather, it is muddy and slippery. At the junction, turn left to head to the parking lot. Turning right will take you to Nel’s Bight and Cape Scott, a worthwhile side trip that will add an extra day to your trip. (Read my Cape Scott Trail guide to decide if you want to combine it with your North Coast Trail hike.)

From the junction, the trail heads downhill in the forest before emerging in a bog. Unlike on the North Coast Trail, most of the bog sections on the Cape Scott section have boardwalk or good gravel underfoot, so the mud is not ever-present and never too deep.

About 4km from the junction reach the Fisherman River Camp and the new bridge over the river. On the other side, you’ll travel along a long, straight section of settler road with drainage ditches on either side, then high above the banks of St. Mary’s Creek through some rocky and rooty sections.

Around 12km from Nissen Bight, some boardwalk sections announce your arrival at Eric Lake Camp. The trail travels past an outhouse and numerous tent platforms. Follow a short spur trail to the lakeshore if you need a break.

Just past Eric Lake, the trail crosses a creek on a large fallen log, then heads into a long boardwalk section that can be slippery. About 13.5km from Nissen Bight reach the south end of Eric Lake and a spur trail leading to the lake.

The next section of trail is rough with badly eroded settler corduroy road heading slightly downhill. Go slowly here as you pick your way through mud and slippery terrain. Reach a junction at about 14.5km. Turn left to reach the parking lot. (Right goes to San Josef Bay.) The final kilometre is easy walking on a wide, well-maintained gravel trail.

Cape Scott Trailhead

The trailhead area has two parking lots, one up the hill from the other. If you are catching the Cape Scott Shuttle Bus, it picks up and drops off next to the trailhead. There is an outhouse and an info board with a map at the trailhead as well as a covered picnic shelter. There is also a ranger yurt in the trees a few meters down the trail.

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

North Coast Trail Itineraries

Standard 6-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary

This is the itinerary that most people who hike the North Coast Trail use.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 6 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km (5-6 hours)

Abbreviated 5-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary with Water Taxi Pick-up

If you want to skip the walk out to the Cape Scott Trailhead, this abbreviated 5-day itinerary is a good option. I chose this North Coast Trail itinerary on my most recent trip because I had already hiked the Cape Scott Trail four times.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Fisherman Bay water taxi pickup: 7.6 km (2.5-4 hours)

Fast 5-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary

This itinerary is suitable for strong hikers who have the stamina to spend most of the day on the trail.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti River: 11 km (7-8.5 hours)

Day 2 – Nahwitti River to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 12.8 km (7-9 hours)

Day 3 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 4 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 5 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km (5-6 hours)

Super-Fast 4-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary

Fast and experienced hikers could use this super-fast North Coast Trail itinerary. The last day is long, but doable since the terrain is much easier than the rest of the route.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti River: 11 km (7-8.5 hours)

Day 2 – Nahwitti River to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 12.8 km (7-9 hours)

Day 3 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 4 – Laura Creek to Cape Scott Trailhead: 22.9 km (7.5-10 hours)

Relaxed 7+ Day North Coast Trail Itinerary

This more relaxed itinerary 7-day North Coast Trail itinerary includes a rest day at Irony Creek. If you want to split up the trail even more you could add an extra night at Nahwitti River between Skinner Creek and Cape Sutil, or one at Wolftrack Beach (no facilities) between Irony Creek and Laura Creek. You could also break up the hike out to the Cape Scott Trailhead with an overnight at the Fisherman River Camp.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Rest Day at Irony Creek

Day 5 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 6 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 7 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km (5-6 hours)

4-Day Half North Coast Trail Itinerary

If you are worried about the rigors of the first two days of trail, or you want to prioritize beach scenery, you may want to consider doing half of the North Coast Trail. To do this, you’ll need to arrange a water taxi drop-off at Cape Sutil instead of at Shushartie Bay.

Day 1 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 2 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 3 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 4 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km (5-6 hours)

7-Day Cape Scott + North Coast Trail Itinerary

If you are already in the area, it makes sense to add an extra day to your North Coast Trail itinerary to go to Cape Scott. The beach at Nel’s Bight is one of the most beautiful campsites in the park and the day hike to the lighthouse is worthwhile. See my Cape Scott Trail Guide for all the details.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Nel’s Bight: 11.2 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 6 – Day hike to Cape Scott from Nel’s Bight: 13.6 km return (5 hours)

Day 7 – Nel’s Bight to Cape Scott Trailhead Parking Lot: 16.8 km (6 hours)

7-Day San Josef Bay + North Coast Trail Itinerary

Add an extra day to your North Coast Trail itinerary by adding on a day at San Josef Bay. The beautiful sandy beach and sea stacks make a great destination for your final day on the trail.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 6 – Nissen Bight to San Josef Bay: 17 km (5.5-6.5 hours)

Day 7 – San Josef Bay to Cape Scott Trailhead Parking Lot: 2.5km (40 minutes)

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So that’s my section-by-section breakdown of the North Coast Trail and all the info you need to choose your North Coast Trail itinerary. For your first time, I recommend the standard 6-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary. If you’re planning your hike and have questions, let me know in the comments. I’d love to help.

READ NEXT:

• North Coast Trail Guide
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking
• North Coast Trail Packing List: Everything You Need to Bring
• 20+ Ways to Reduce Your Backpack Weight

MORE VANCOUVER ISLAND POSTS:

• Things to do on North Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug, and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• Juan De Fuca Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• 30 Best Backpacking Trips in BC
• 25 Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia

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The post North Coast Trail Itinerary and Section-By-Section Overview appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I hiked the trail twice (to research my book Backpacking on Vancouver Island), so I’ve put together a full North Coast Trail guide for you. It includes:

• how to get to the North Coast Trail, including driving directions and info for booking the water taxi and shuttle van
• how much it costs to hike the North Coast Trail
• key North Coast Trail safety information on wildlife, tides, and drinking water
• information on the history and indigenous context of the North Coast Trail

WANT MORE NORTH COAST TRAIL INFO? Check out these posts:

• North Coast Trail itineraries and section-by-section overview of the trail
• North Coast Trail Packing List: Everything You Need to Bring
• Cape Scott Trail Guide – add a side trip to your North Coast Trail trip

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Quick Facts

Location: The northernmost tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada in Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Distance: Officially 43.1 km… but probably longer.

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Time: 5-6 days

Cost: About $320 per person. (See How Much Does the North Coast Trail Cost? below for a full breakdown).

Best Time to Go: June to September.

Trail Description

The NCT is a 43-kilometre-long coastal trail that runs across the northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada, and connects with the Cape Scott Trail. It is a rugged backcountry trail that travels along beaches, through dense rainforest, and across muddy bogs. The trail is in a very remote area with frequent rainstorms and technical terrain, so hiking it can be very challenging. For a detailed description, see my North Coast Trail Section-by-Section Overview.

How Long is the North Coast Trail?

The official length of the North Coast Trail is 43.1 kilometres.

That is the distance from the Shushartie Bay trailhead to the east end of Nissen Bight where the NCT meets the Cape Scott Trail. However, my GPS recorded a total distance of about 48.6 km.

As well, the North Coast Trail ends at Nissen Bight, which is still deep in the backcountry. Most hikers opt to hike another 15.4 km out to the Cape Scott Trail parking lot, making their total hike about 58.5 km (or about 64 km unofficially). (It is also possible to get a water taxi and skip the hike out. See North Coast Trail Water Taxi and Shuttle below for more info.)

How Difficult is the North Coast Trail?

The NCT is one of the most challenging multi-day hikes in British Columbia. I think it’s the hardest trail I’ve done. The terrain is very technical, with lots of mud pits, roots, rocks, and rope-assisted climbs of slippery slopes. Although the distance and elevation gain each day are fairly short, I found the North Coast Trail so difficult because nearly every step requires focus to keep you from falling down.

The NCT can also be a mental challenge. Travel times on the trail are quite slow, often less than 2 kilometres per hour, and that can be demoralizing. As well, the fickle North Vancouver Island weather means that rain, fog, and cold temperatures are common.

Many people compare the North Coast Trail to the West Coast Trail. They are similar in that they both traverse the coast of Vancouver Island using a mix of beach and inland trails. However, I think the West Coast Trail (while still challenging) is easier than the NCT because the WCT has more infrastructure (boardwalks and ladders) and the beach walk sections are easier.

Best Time to Hike the North Coast Trail

The trail is open year-round. The best time of year to hike the trail is in June, July, and August since those months have less rain and are warmer with temperatures typically between 8-15°C (46-59°F). However, you should still prepare for rain and fog. I experienced lots of both when I hiked the North Coast Trail in August 2008 and August 2021.

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

If you want to do an out and back trip on the trail from the Cape Scott Parking lot or you can arrange your own boat, you can hike the trail year-round. However, the water taxi and shuttle only run from mid-April to the end of September, so you will encounter very few hikers on the NCT outside of those months.

The North Coast Trail is one of my picks for the best spring backpacking trips in British Columbia.

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

How Long Does it Take to Hike the North Coast Trail?

Most hikers complete the NCT in six days. A typical North Coast Trail itinerary is:

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km

Day 6 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km

However, you can shorten it to five days if you arrange a water taxi pick up at Fisherman’s Bay (near Nissen Bight). As well, many hikers tack on a trip to Cape Scott, which adds an extra day or two.

For a more detailed itinerary and other North Coast Trail itinerary options, see my North Coast Trail Itinerary and Section-by-Section Overview.

Which Direction to Hike the North Coast Trail?

Most hikers hike from east to west, starting at Shushartie Bay and finishing at Nissen Bight. The water taxi and shuttle schedules are lined up to work in that direction, with a morning drop-off at Shushartie and an afternoon pick-up at Cape Scott Trailhead parking lot. You can hike the other way, but logistics are more complicated.

North Coast Trail Reservations and Permits

Unlike popular hikes like the West Coast Trail or Berg Lake, you do NOT need to make reservations for the North Coast Trail. There is no limit to how many hikers can be on the trail. However, you do have to get a backcountry camping permit from BC Parks. Permits are $10/person/night and can be purchased up to 2 weeks before your trip.

BUT, due to the location of the trailheads, you will need to make reservations for the water taxi and/or shuttle bus. On popular dates, they sell out. And in the spring and fall, they may not have enough passengers to run. See the Water Taxi and Shuttle section below for more info.

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

How Much Does the North Coast Trail Cost?

The short answer: About $320 per person.

The long answer: It depends.

Three things contribute to the cost of the NCT: water taxi fees, shuttle fees, and trail fees. Here is a breakdown of the typical costs for one person on a typical six-day/five-night trip.

• Trail fees: $10/person/night x 5 nights = $50
• Water taxi from Port Hardy to Shushartie Bay = $150
• Shuttle bus from Cape Scott Parking lot to Port Hardy = $120

If you can arrange your own transportation, you’ll only have to pay trail fees. And if you want the water taxi to drop you off or pick you up at Cape Sutil or Fisherman’s Bay, your water taxi fees will be more expensive.

Get My Book…

Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
• Advice for extending your trip
• Points of cultural and natural history

Get the book

How to Get to the North Coast Trail

Getting to Port Hardy

The North Coast Trail is located in Cape Scott Provincial Park at the very northern tip of Vancouver Island. The drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy takes just over 4 hours via the Island Highway (Highway 19).

The North Coast Trail is also on my list backpacking trips in BC you can get to without a car. There is a shuttle van service from Campbell River to Port Hardy. You can also fly to Port Hardy from Vancouver with Pacific Coastal Airlines.

North Coast Trail Water Taxi

The North Coast Trail water taxi is operated by Cape Scott Water Taxi and leaves from the Port Hardy Marina (behind the Quarterdeck Inn) most mornings between mid-April and late September. It’s a comfortable boat with a heated cabin that seats 12 passengers. Backpacks ride in the cabin or on the deck under a tarp.

Tip: Secure your trekking poles to your pack, and put on your rain cover before you get on board. And don’t forget your camera. We spotted dozens of sea otters, a pod of porpoises, and some whales on our water taxi trip.

Advance bookings are essential as the boat can fill up during July and August or can be too empty to run at other times. Get in touch with Babe, who does bookings, to see if there is availability for your dates. If possible, be flexible so that you can be grouped together with another party.

Cape Scott Water Taxi offers secure parking at their office at the Port Hardy Marina. It costs $30 per week. They ask that you leave them your keys since they may have to double or triple park cars to fit everyone in. We met a couple on the trail who had a hiking boot fall apart on the first day. They radioed the water taxi operator, who had their car keys. The water taxi was able to retrieve a pair of trail runners from their car and deliver them to the hikers at Shushartie Bay later the same day since they had another boat going out!

Water Taxi To/From Shushartie Bay

Most hikers use the North Coast Trail water taxi to start the trail at Shushartie Bay. The trip from Port Hardy takes about an hour. The ride costs $150 per person and the boat will only run if there are at least 4 passengers. Most days the water taxi leaves at 7 am, but there are also additional trips at 9 am (or even later) if there is enough demand.

There is no dock at Shushartie Bay. Instead, the boat captain noses into a large rock next to deep water. Hikers scramble off the front of the boat onto the rocks, which are covered in barnacles and seaweed. It’s a slippery start to the trail!

Note: There are old logging roads that reach the Shushartie River estuary at the back of Shushartie Bay. However, they are badly overgrown and there is no trail through the sensitive estuary ecosystem, so you can only reach the trailhead by boat.

Water Taxi To/From Cape Sutil

Some hikers choose to bypass the tough first two days of the trail by starting or finishing at Cape Sutil. The water taxi from Cape Sutil to Port Hardy takes about 90 minutes and costs $160 per person. There is a 5 passenger minimum for the trip, but they will often tack on a Cape Sutil trip off with a Shushartie or Fisherman’s Bay one.

The boat drops off passengers on the rocks at a small cove just north of the main camping beach at Cape Sutil. A short, rough trail over a headland leads to the North Coast Trail. In calm weather, they will drop you off on the rocks and in rougher weather, they will use a small dingy to transfer you from the water taxi to shore.

Note: The water taxi can only land at Cape Sutil at high tide so pick-up and drop-off times may be limited.

Water Taxi To/From Fisherman Bay

You can skip the walk out to the Cape Scott Trailhead by scheduling a water taxi pickup or drop off at Fisherman Bay. It is a small cove just west of Nissen Bight. In the Danish settler days, it was their main port. To get there, follow the trail south from Nissen Bight for a few minutes, then take the right fork to head to the small gravel beach.

The trip from Fisherman Bay to Port Hardy takes about 2 hours and costs $200 per person. There is a 6 person minimum for the trip. Since Fisherman Bay is a steep gravel beach, landing here is a challenge. The water taxi captain will run the boat into the beach, then use the engine to hold it there while a deckhand lowers a ladder off the bow. Hikers scramble up the ladder onto the boat. This method only works in calm water – in rough water they may have to use a small dingy to transfer passengers to the boat.

Note: The water taxi can only land at Fisherman Bay at high tide so pick up and drop off times may be limited.

North Coast Trail Shuttle Bus

Most hikers choose to end their journey with a trip on the North Coast Trail shuttle bus, operated by Cape Scott Water Taxi. The shuttle van seats 10 passengers and requires a minimum of three people to run. The shuttle bus picks up hikers from the Cape Scott Trailhead parking lot daily at 1 pm. The ride back to Port Hardy takes about two hours.

Driving to the Cape Scott Trailhead

If you want to hike the trail as an out-and-back trip (known as a yo-yo) or you have arranged other trip logistics on your own, you can drive yourself to the Cape Scott Trailhead. It’s a two-hour drive from Port Hardy on gravel logging roads. They are usually fine for 2WD vehicles, but they can be dusty, bumpy, and muddy. Bring a spare tire and be prepared to share the road with fast-moving, heavily-loaded logging trucks. See my guide to Cape Scott for full driving directions.

Where to Stay Near the North Coast Trail

Since most hikers start the trail with a water taxi in the morning, it makes sense to stay overnight in Port Hardy. The closes hotels to the dock are the Glen Lyon Inn and the Quarterdeck Inn. I’ve stayed at both and they both have great water views. I’ve also stayed at the indigenous-owned Kwa’lilas Hotel a few minutes away. It’s gorgeous! If you’re on a budget, the North Coast Trail Backpackers Hostel gets good reviews. Be sure to book in advance as hotels are often full in the summer on days when the BC Ferry to Prince Rupert is in port.

Tip: If you have time, plan to spend a few more days on northern Vancouver Island to experience the awesome whale watching, kayaking, indigenous sites, and grizzly bear tours. Read my post about the best things to do on North Vancouver Island.

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North Coast Trail Maps and Books

There is a basic map of the North Coast Trail on the BC Parks website, but it doesn’t provide enough detail for navigation or trip planning.

I’ve also made a a custom Google Map for you. It has all the campsites and key points like trailheads, water taxi, and shuttle bus pick up spots.

For travel on the trail, you’ll need a paper map and/or a GPS. There are two maps of the North Coast Trail available: John Baldwin’s North Coast Trail Topographic Map and The North Coast Trail Map from Wildcoast Magazine.

I have both maps. They are both printed on waterproof, tearproof paper. I like the Wildcoast map much more, as it has a lot more information including a day-by-day description with key landmarks and hazards. The John Baldwin map is mostly just a topographic map with a few symbols overlaid on it. You can buy both maps online or at the Cape Scott Water Taxi office.

On my trip, I also used the Gaia GPS app. It was really helpful for tracking our progress, especially during the long inland sections that seemed to go by really slowly. (Psst! Want to save 20% off a premium Gaia annual membership, which includes the maps I used on my trip? Use this link.)

If you’re interested in the history of the Cape Scott area or want more info about the natural history of the area, pick up a copy of Cape Scot and the North Coast Trail: Hiking Vancouver Island’s Wildest Coast by Maria I. Bremner. It’s a great book full of lots of fun details and great photos.

My book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island also has chapters bout the North Coast Trail and Cape Scott.

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Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
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What to Pack for the North Coast Trail

You will need to be totally self-sufficient on the North Coast Trail and carry in everything you will need for your trip – right down to the toilet paper! The last place to buy supplies is in Port Hardy. It has a grocery store and the hardware store sells a small selection of outdoor gear.

To avoid carrying a stupidly heavy pack, choose lightweight hiking gear rather than heavy conventional camping gear. The lighter you can get your pack, the happier you will be. In general, aim for a pack weight that is 1/3 to 1/4 of your body weight or less. The weather on the coast is also often very wet so be sure to pack accordingly. You may also want a pair of sturdy work gloves to use on the ropes and cable cars.

For lots more information, check out my West Coast Trail packing list, since the gear list is identical to what you’ll need to pack for the North Coast Trail. It’s a complete guide to everything you need to bring including specific gear recommendations from my hikes.

Camping on the North Coast Trail

There are six official campgrounds on the North Coast Trail, and then three more along the Cape Scott Trail in between the end of the North Coast Trail and the Cape Scott Trailhead parking lot. They all have:

• a pit toilet
• access to fresh drinking water from a nearby creek
• metal food storage lockers
• cleared campsites in the forest AND/OR campsites on the beach sand (Be sure to pitch your tent WELL above the high tide line.)

All campsites are first-come, first-served. At busy times of the year, some of the campgrounds can get full. See my Section-by-Section Overview for full details on each campground.

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Drinking-Water Sources on the North Coast Trail

The terrain on the North Coast Trail is coastal bog, which means that freshwater can be hard to find, especially late in the summer and during periods of dry weather. All of the freshwater has a dark tea colour from the tannins in the soil. You should treat all water by purifying, filtering, or boiling it. If you use a filter, consider straining the water through a clean bandana or coffee filter first to get some of the silt and tannins out. Your filter may also get clogged, so make sure you know how to clean it.

Here are the main places to find water along the trail and at the campgrounds. See the section-by-section trail description for more details:

• Skinner Creek
• Nahwitti River (but go upstream and avoid high tide so you don’t collect saltwater)
• Tripod Beach
• Cape Sutil
• Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight)
• Laura Creek
• Dakota Creek
• Nissen Bight (west side)
• Fisherman River
• Eric Lake

Tides on the North Coast Trail

You will need to bring a tide table and pay attention to the tides on the North Coast Trail. Use the Cape Scott tide table available from Fisheries and Oceans Canada. Make sure you print out the predicted tide height for each hour of the day. It’s much more helpful than just using the daily highs and lows.

There are a few tidal obstacles on the North Coast Trail where the beach is impassable at high tides. Most have rough inland bypass trails, but a few do not. The main tidal obstacles are located just west of Skinner Creek and at Tripod Beach. For full details, see my section-by-section North Coast Trail overview.

You will also want to refer to tide tables when you camp on the beach to ensure that you pitch your tent well above the high tide line.

How to Stay Safe on the North Coast Trail

The North Coast Trail tackles some pretty rugged terrain. And the trail is in a remote area where getting help is difficult. Make sure you are physically and mentally prepared. Take a first aid kit.

There is no cell service so consider bringing a satellite messenger or marine radio. I brought my Garmin inReach Mini on my 2021 North Coast Trail hike. Thankfully we didn’t need it, but we did assist a pair of hikers who were unprepared for the difficulty of the terrain. We helped them call a water taxi at Cape Sutil as they were too tired to complete the remainder of the trail without further aggravating a leg injury.

Leave a trip plan at home with a friend or family member. That way someone knows where you are going and when you expect to be back.

Most injuries on the trail happen when the weather is bad or hikers are tired. (Or both!) Be prepared to turn back or stop and make camp if the weather gets too bad or you are having difficulty with the hike. If you keep pushing forward, you may just make your situation worse by injuring yourself.

Take extra time on ropes, bridges, and cable cars. Watch your step on the boardwalks or any wooden structure – they can be REALLY slippery.

Be careful crossing streams. Make sure they aren’t flooding and if possible, cross at low tide. Speaking of tides, always keep your tide table handy and consult it along with your map whenever you choose a beach route. Only take the official marked beach routes – other routes have dangerous cliffs and surge channels.

Wildlife

The North Coast Trail is a remote wilderness area so it’s home to lots of wildlife. You might encounter a black bear, wolf, or cougar. I’ve hiked the trail twice and both times we have seen quite a few bears and some wolf tracks. In 2021 we counted 39 piles of fresh bear scat between Shuttleworth Bight and Laura Creek and saw three bears near Laura Creek. The area seems to be a hot spot for bear activity.

To minimize the risk of a negative encounter, hike in groups, make lots of noise, and carry bear spray just in case. At campgrounds, store your food and toiletries in the bear bins and camp well away from your cooking area. Do not camp near animal carcasses. (On my first North Coast Trail trip in 2008 we woke up one morning to find a bear eating a seal carcass on the beach near our tent! It had washed up overnight.) If you want more info, I’ve got lots more bear safety tips for hikers and backpackers.

There is also lots of marine life just offshore along the North Coast Trail. Last time I hiked the trail we spotted grey whales and sea otters feeding near Nahwitti River. There are also lots of curious seals surfacing along the beaches. You can also spy on sea lion colonies on rocky islets in a few places. Bring a pair of binoculars to get a better look. My husband brought a compact GoSky Titan monocular that he found on Amazon. It’s pretty light and not too expensive, but it still has 12×50 magnification.

Trail Rules

Dogs: BC Parks doesn’t allow dogs on the North Coast Trail. The area has a large wolf population. Wolves are very territorial and will attack dogs since they see them as a threat.

Beachcombing: You aren’t allowed to take home anything natural from the trail. That includes shells, rocks, sand, wood, etc. However, you are encouraged to take home anything man-made, such as fishing floats. (I have one hanging in my home office!)

Smoking, vaping, and cannabis: Smoking tobacco and cannabis, using e-cigarettes, and vaping are not permitted on the North Coast Trail or in any BC Park.

Drones: Drones are not allowed on the North Coast Trail or in any BC Parks without a specific permit, issued only to licenced drone pilots.

Campfires: Campfires are allowed on the North Coast Trail as long as there is no fire ban for that part of Vancouver Island. (Check the BC Fire Ban website before you go. Cape Scott is in the Coastal Region.)

Build your campfire in an existing fire ring or make one below the high tide line. Make a small fire and don’t burn big logs so that there is lots of wood left for everyone. Recently I learned that burning driftwood can create toxic smoke from the salt build-up in the logs. So you may want to skip the campfire entirely.

When you are done, use water to douse your fire to make sure it is completely out. Don’t smother your fire with sand. It can continue to smoulder under the sand and can injure people. During my 2020 trip to Cape Scott, a 12-year-old boy had to be evacuated by helicopter after he burned his foot by stepping in embers from an old campfire!

Coastal Hiking Tips

Coastal hiking and backpacking are a lot different than hiking in the forest or mountains. Head on over to my coastal hiking tips post. After over 15 coastal hiking trips to beaches in British Columbia and Washington, I’ve got tons of coastal hiking pointers for you… including how to cope with the EPIC MUD!

Indigenous Context

Indigenous people have lived on northern Vancouver Island along the present-day North Coast Trail since time immemorial. The area is in the traditional territory of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw people. They had village sites at the head of Shushartie Bay (Khatis), at Cape Sutil (Nahwitti), and on Shuttleworth Bight (Go’saa), as well as other cultural sites including burial grounds, shell middens, pictographs, and fish traps.

In the early 1800s, European fur traders began visiting the area to collect sea otter pelts. The indigenous locals were exposed to smallpox and tuberculosis, which devastated their populations. The fur trade also disrupted their culture and caused inter-tribal conflict.

Relations between Europeans and indigenous people were somewhat cooperative until 1850 when the British shelled the village of Nahwitti and burned it to the ground after the residents were accused of harbouring escaped fugitives. The survivors moved to Bull Harbour on nearby Hope Island where there is still a small settlement today.

For more information about the indigenous context of northern Vancouver Island, be sure to visit the U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay, which is one of my recommendations for the best things to do on North Vancouver Island. You can also find info in Maria I. Bremner’s excellent book, Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail.

Trail History

Following the fur trade era in the late 1800s, Danish settlers began colonizing the Cape Scott and North Coast Trail areas. They cleared brush and built farms, stores, and schools as well as trails linking their settlements together. Today, you can visit the remains of these sites on the Cape Scott Trail.

Despite their best efforts, the Danish settlement was not successful, mostly due to the lack of a road. In 1910 new settlers from elsewhere in Canada made a second settlement attempt urged on by a government scheme that gave vacant land to settlers at a discounted rate. Many began farming in the Cape Scott area and along the Stranby River on the present-day North Coast Trail. This settlement was also unsuccessful and by the 1920s, most had left the area.

The Cape Scott area became a provincial park in 1973. In 1995 the North Coast Trail area was added to the park. Planning for the North Coast Trail began in the early 2000s as a way to diversify the North Vancouver Island economy and branch out into eco-tourism.

The North Coast Trail officially opened in spring 2008. I was one of the first 100 people to travel the length of the route when I hiked it for the first time in August 2008. In some places, the route follows original settlers’ trails, and in others trail crews forged new paths through the forest and bogs.

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The North Coast Trail is a unique challenge and a gorgeous place, especially in good weather. This post and its companion, the section-by-section overview of the North Coast Trail should give you all the info you need to have a safe and fun hike. If you have questions about the North Coast Trail, ask them in the comments. I’d love to help!

READ NEXT:

• North Coast Trail Itinerary and Section-By-Section Overview
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking
• North Coast Trail Packing List: Everything You Need to Bring
• How to Go Backpacking in BC Without Reservations
• How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

MORE VANCOUVER ISLAND POSTS:

• Things to do on North Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug, and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• Juan De Fuca Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Tatchu Trail Guide: Vancouver Island Coastal Backpacking
• 30 Best Backpacking Trips in BC
• 25 Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia

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The post North Coast Trail: Backpacking on Vancouver Island appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

My Coastal Hiking Experience

My first ever backpacking trip was a 5-night blitz of the West Coast Trail. I’d say it was a baptism by fire, but it was more like a baptism by sand, mud, and rain. And it was sooo gorgeous. I was hooked!

Since then I’ve done over 18 more overnight and multi-day trips on the coast. In British Columbia, I’ve done the West Coast Trail (twice), Juan de Fuca Trail (twice), North Coast Trail (twice), Wild Side Trail (twice), Nootka Trail, Tatchu Peninsula, San Josef Bay (twice), and Cape Scott Trail (three times). In Washington, I’ve hiked the North Olympic Coast Route, the Ozette Loop (twice), Shi Shi Beach, and Toleak Point.

I’ve learned a lot of lessons about coastal trails on these trips and now I’m passing that wisdom and my best coastal hiking tips along to you.

Wear Gaiters

In case you didn’t know, gaiters are fabric covers that bridge the gap between your boots and your pants. I have friends who never wear gaiters on coastal hikes, but I swear by them. They keep the sand out of your boots, which can cause painful blisters. (Read my guide to preventing blisters for more info.)

Gaiters also help on muddy trails, which are common on the coast. If the mud is deeper than your boots (which happens a lot!) you will have an added layer of protection. Waterproof gaiters can also be great for short stream crossings – that way you don’t have to take your boots off.

On my last West Coast Trail hike, I wore short water-resistant gaiters (like these) just to keep the mud and sand out. But wearing them on the North Coast Trail was a big mistake – they weren’t tall enough for the epic mud on that trail! I ended up with mud and water over the top of my gaiters within the first two hours. I should have brought these tall Gore-Tex gaiters that I had already worn on lots of other trips. (This pair are similar).

Use Hiking Poles

Coastal trails are very uneven with lots of mud, roots, slippery rocks, and creek crossings. Poles help you keep your balance on tricky terrain. You can also use them to probe mud bogs to find the driest spots. If you’ve hiked with poles before and hated them, don’t bring them on a coastal trip. But otherwise, I think poles are a must. (The only time they are a disadvantage is when you encounter ladders or fixed ropes and you have to stow them.)

I use Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork trekking poles. They are definitely the Cadillac of trekking poles. If you want something a bit more budget-oriented, the Black Diamond Trail Explorer poles are really great quality for the price.

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Don’t Stress About Sand

On coastal trips, sand gets into everything. Even months after a beach trip, I still find sand in my boots, tent, and backpack. It’s easy to let the sand drive you crazy… but just chill out. For the most part, it’s not a big deal. To protect sensitive gear like camera lenses or food, lay down your rain jacket, a pack cover, a small tarp, or your tent footprint as a sand-free area.

There is only one time when I stress about sand: when it’s getting in my boots. That’s because it can cause blisters. Prevention is key here. Wear gaiters. Avoid shoes with mesh panels. And carry a small travel towel to wipe down your feet before you put your socks on.

Prep for Tea-Coloured Water

Most water sources on coastal backpacking trips have dark tea-coloured water. This is due to tannins from the vegetation in the swamps and bogs. As well, these water sources are often a trickle so you won’t have much choice on where you can fill up.

Bring a water filter or purifier to treat your water. The silt and tannins in the water can clog filters and add to processing times for chemical purification like Pristine and Aquamira. Some people prefer to strain the water through a bandana, clean t-shirt, or coffee filter first, then treat it or filter it.

If you bring a filter, make sure you know how to clean it in the field, as that’s the only way to get it unclogged. We use a Platypus GravityWorks water filter since it doesn’t require pumping and you can clean it easily by backflushing it with clean water. Be prepared to have your filter run very slowly when filtering coastal water, especially if it’s not new. We replaced our filter cartridge after a recent coastal trip and were surprised to see how much better it ran!

The tannins in the water give it a dark colour that many people find unappealing. Some also say that they don’t like the taste (although I usually don’t notice it). If that bothers you, bring juice powder to mask the taste and colour. My favourite for backpacking is Nuun, a sports drink with electrolytes. I love that it comes in tablets rather than loose powder so it’s less messy.

Waterproof Everything

Even if the forecast doesn’t call for rain, waterproof everything. Everything! The weather on the coast is notoriously fickle and rainstorms can blow in unexpectedly. Coastal fog can also create damp camping conditions. (And sometimes the forecast is just for rain. On my first North Coast Trail hike we had torrential rain EVERY. SINGLE. DAY.)

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Bring good quality waterproof breathable jacket and pants. I wear the MEC Synergy Jacket, which is Gore-Tex, and the MEC Hydrofoil Stretch pants. Another great option is the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L. It’s pretty durable for the low price.

READ NEXT: Why Do Rain Jackets Wet Out?

Bring a good quality backpacking tent with a full-length rainfly. We use the MSR Hubba Hubba NX or the Zpacks Triplex.

Pack a lightweight silnylon tarp and some cord so you can set up a kitchen shelter. We have a RAB siltarp 2 that scrunches down to the size of a burrito and comes on every coastal trip.

It’s also important to keep your gear dry when you’re hiking on the coast. My Gregory Amber backpack came with a pack cover, but if yours didn’t, buy a lightweight sil-nylon pack cover.

I also use lightweight dry bags inside my pack for things that absolutely need to stay dry like my sleeping bag and warm clothing. For smaller things like maps, toilet paper, etc., I use Ziploc freezer bags, which are thicker and more durable than their regular ones. Don’t throw them away after your trip – I reuse mine over and over again.

On longer trips, or when there’s rain in the forecast, I also use a pack liner. You can buy sil-nylon pack liners, but you can also just line your pack with a garbage bag. I actually use trash compactor bags. They are thicker and more durable than regular garbage bags, so they last longer – I can usually use one for a whole year.

READ NEXT: 40+ Tips for Hiking in the Rain

Keep Your Sleeping Bag Dry

One of the most common coastal hiking tips you will hear is that you need to use a synthetic sleeping bag. Unlike down, synthetic insulation will keep you warm even if it gets wet from rain, fog, or condensation. BUT… synthetic bags are bulky and heavy compared to down. If you are already own a synthetic sleeping bag, then go ahead and bring it. But if you already own a down sleeping bag, DON’T go out and buy a synthetic bag specifically for your coastal hike. It’s not necessary!

That’s right… I’m here to tell you that you can definitely use a down sleeping bag on a coastal hike. I only use down sleeping bags since they are so much lighter and more compact. I’ve spent more than 30 nights sleeping in coastal environments, all in down sleeping bags, without any problems. Here’s how I do it:

• I store my sleeping bag inside a water-resistant compression sack.
• Then I wrap the sleeping bag inside a garbage bag.
• The garbage bag -wrapped sleeping bag goes inside my pack, which is lined with a pack liner.
• And when it rains, I put a rain cover over top.
• I always use a good quality waterproof tent and make sure to vent it to avoid condensation.
• I also use sleeping bags with water-resistant outer fabric and water-resistant down fill.
• And when it’s sunny, I spread my sleeping bag out on a log or the top of my tent to let it air out.

On my coastal hikes, I’ve had days of torrential rains, tons of fog, and 100% humidity. And I’ve fallen into streams with my backpack on. My sleeping bag has never gotten more than a tiny bit damp. If you take care of your sleeping bag, you can definitely bring a down sleeping bag on a coastal hiking trip. Right now my favourite sleeping bag for beach backpacking is the Therm-a-rest Ohm 32F/0C which is super warm but packs down really small.

Beware of Blisters

I’ve said it a few times already, and I’ll say it again: coastal hikes are terrible for blisters. All the water, sand, and rough terrain can lead to unhappy feet. I’ve got a whole guide to preventing and dealing with blisters. It’s a must-read before a coastal hike. Honestly, if you are going to take just one piece of advice from this post, make it this one. Preventing blisters is the most important of my coastal hiking tips.

Embrace the Mud

You’ll encounter a lot of mud on coastal trails. But rather than avoiding it, embrace it. Walk through the middle of the mud bogs instead of skirting around the side. The mud is usually wetter and deeper on the sides. Often there is drier ground just below the surface since the middle of the trail is usually designed for the best drainage. (Sometimes you’ll even find boardwalk or rocks hidden under that mud!) Plus, you avoid erosion and damaging vegetation by going through the center, which is a key part of Leave No Trace.

Carry a Tide Table

Knowing the timing of high tide is super important on a coastal hike for a few reasons. You want to make sure your tent is high enough up the beach to avoid waves at night. Some trails also have beach sections that are impassable at high tide or at tides of a specific height, and you’ll need to time your hike around that. Knowing the low tide can also be helpful so you know when the best times for exploring tide pools and sea caves. (Don’t miss the incredible offshore sea caves and tide pools at Shi Shi Beach and Toleak Point.)

You can find Canadian tide tables on the Fisheries and Oceans Canada website and American ones on the Tides and Currents section of the NOAA website. Be sure to select the correct table for the region you’ll be hiking in. I carry a printout of the table inside a Ziploc bag. Make sure you print out the version with the hourly predicted heights, not just the highs and lows.

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Learn to Pitch Your Tent in the Sand

Regular tent pegs will just slide out of soft sand. This leads to a saggy rain fly that droops against the interior of your tent and causes condensation to build up. In windy weather, it could also mean that your tent will blow all over the place. You can use a few different strategies to anchor your tent in the sand.

The easiest way is to peg out your tent, then place rocks on top of the pegs. This works ok sometimes but doesn’t usually hold up that well.

You can also opt for beefier tent pegs with more holding power. We often bring a few snow stakes since they work well in sand too. They are longer and have holes in them to let the sand leak through and lock into place.

Another option is to fill stuff sacks or plastic bags with sand and tie the tent out to them. For even more holding power, bury the bags in the sand.

You can also bring some lengths of guy line and tie your tent out to driftwood logs or large rocks. The trick can be finding logs that are in the right place, are light enough to move, and that have a place to loop the guy line around.

Since I use a non-freestanding Zpacks tent on many of my trips, I need to make sure my tent really stays put or it will fall down. I’ve started bringing a handful of screw-in eyelets from the hardware store on beach hikes. I screw them into driftwood and tie out my tent. When it’s time to go home, I unscrew them and bring them with me.

Secure Your Food

Coastal ecosystems are home to lots of critter like birds, mice, raccoons, and bears. And they all want your food. You need to secure your food away from animals or risk losing it. While losing your food might be an inconvenience to you, it can be very dangerous for other backpackers who camp there in the coming weeks and months. It’s easy for bears to progress from raiding poorly stored food to approaching people or flattening tents looking for food.

Do some research to find out what food storage options are available on your trip. On some trails, like the West Coast Trail, the Cape Scott Trail, and the North Coast Trail there are metal food storage lockers at every campsite. In other areas, like on Washington’s Olympic Coast, you will need to pack your food inside bear canisters. (There it’s mostly for the very bold raccoons.) And some places like the Nootka Trail have no food storage at all so you will need to bring rope to rig a food hang in a tree. (Read more about bear safety here.)

Respect Indigenous Land

Being respectful of indigenous land isn’t just a coastal hiking tip – it’s good practice for anywhere you hike. And really, it’s just the right thing to do.

Indigenous people have lived in what is now Canada and the US since time immemorial. When you hike, you traverse land that has a cultural history that predates European contact. On many coastal hikes, you will find shell middens, village sites, petroglyphs, and other cultural artefacts. Some trails, like the West Coast Trail, Wild Side Trail, Nootka Trail, North Coast Trail, Tatchu Trail, and Shi Shi Beach, cross indigenous reserve land. No matter which trail you hike, be respectful of indigenous land and culture – you are a guest here. Leave what you find. Native-land.ca is a great resource for researching which indigenous peoples’ land you are on.

Bring Gloves

Gloves can be helpful on some coastal trails. Some people like to wear gloves to protect their hands and add grip on cable cars, ladders, and fixed ropes. Others like the added abrasion resistance that gloves provide from barnacles and sharp rocks when you’re boulder hopping or navigating technical sections of coastline.

I brought cheap nitrile-coated work gloves from the hardware store when I did the North Coast Trail. They were really helpful for the fixed ropes. I’ve had lots of people tell me they like to hike in lightweight wind gloves for the West Coast Trail ladders and cable cars or the coastal route around Owen Point. I think gloves aren’t necessary for the WCT, but if you want some, cheap work gloves are a better option. They are much less expensive too!

Wear Good Boots

There’s a lot of debate in the hiking community about whether hiking in boots or trail runners is better. I do both, so I understand both sides of the argument. However, when it comes to coastal hiking, I always wear boots.

I wear waterproof hiking boots for beach hiking. The waterproof membrane inside the boots is great for keeping your feet dry, but the bigger benefit is keeping sand out. I’ve done day hikes on the beach in trail runners with mesh panels. You end up with a shoe full of sand, which can cause blisters. No good!

If you aren’t used to carrying a heavy backpack, or you have weak ankles, you should also choose a hiking boot with ankle support. Coastal hikes involve lots of uneven terrain, roots, slippery rocks, and unstable sand. Sprained ankles are one of the most common injuries on the West Coast Trail and other beach hikes.

I wear Salomon X Ultra Mid GTX boots which are waterproof, fairly lightweight, and offer moderate ankle support. My husband wears the Salomon Quest 4D GTX boots which are similar, but a little beefier with more ankle support.

Plan Trailhead Transportation in Advance

Getting to and from the trailhead for a coastal hike can be an adventure in itself. Most trailheads are in remote locations without public transportation and where hitchhiking is difficult. Some trails like the Juan de Fuca Trail and West Coast Trail have a scheduled bus. Others like the North Coast Trail, Tatchu Trail, and Nootka Trail require you to book a water taxi or charter a floatplane.

Make reservations for transportation far in advance. I’ve heard lots of stories of people who waited until the last minute to reserve, then found out the bus or boat was fully booked for their dates. And don’t rely on just showing up at the trailhead and hoping you can get on the bus. On my first West Coast Trail trip, we didn’t book transportation. On our last day we showed up at the trailhead got the last seats on the bus. A group who arrived behind us had to camp and wait a full day for the next bus!

Prep for Hot AND Cold Weather

Coastal weather is notoriously fickle. It can be sunny and smokin’ hot one minute, then cool off to a few degrees above freezing. Bring warm clothes for wearing around camp as it gets chilly in the evenings, especially when the wind kicks up. And don’t forget sun protection (sunscreen, sun hat, sunglasses) for the warm days – I’ve gotten some wicked sunburns on coastal trips.

Bring Your Gear Inside

It can be tempting to leave wet or stinky gear out overnight to let it dry off or air out. Don’t do it! As soon as the sun sets, the dew and condensation starts. The coast is a humid environment and any gear you leave out will get soaking wet. Bring everything inside your tent or vestibule, or store it under a tarp. I like to put extra gear inside my pack at night, put the pack cover on, then stow my pack inside my vestibule, under a log, or under my kitchen tarp. Of all the coastal hiking tips on this list, this one is the one that most people forget about (even me!). It’s so easy to think that your gear will dry overnight, when really it will just get wetter.

So there are all of my  coastal hiking tips. Did I miss anything? What advice would you give someone heading out for a backpacking trip on their first beach trail? Tell me in the comments.

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READ NEXT:

More hiking advice:

• 40+ Tips for Hiking in the Rain
• Why Do Rain Jackets Wet Out?
• 20+ Ways to Reduce Your Backpack Weight
• How to Stay Warm in a Tent: Over 40 Tips

My trail guides for British Columbia coastal hikes:

• West Coast Trail
• Juan de Fuca Trail
• North Coast Trail
• Cape Scott Trail
• Nootka Trail
• Wild Side Trail
• Tatchu Trail

My trail guides for Washington (Olympic National Park) coastal hikes:

• Ozette Loop Trail
• Shi Shi Beach Trail
• Toleak Point Trail

The post Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I’ve done six or seven backpacking trips in the park (to research my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island), so I’ve put together a full guide to the Cape Scott area for you. This post includes:

• how to get to Cape Scott Provincial Park, including driving directions and where to stay nearby
• how much it costs to hike and camp at Cape Scott
• a detailed trail description of the hike from the trailhead to Cape Scott lighthouse
• other hikes in the area including San Josef Bay
• where to camp in Cape Scott Provincial Park
• tips for making your Cape Scott trip a success

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase.  Thanks for supporting my website. -Taryn

Cape Scott Overview

Cape Scott Provincial Park is located at the northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. The main attractions in the park are the trail to Cape Scott at the northwest tip of the park, and the North Coast Trail, a challenging 5-day backpacking trip. (I’ve got a separate guide for the North Coast Trail, so I won’t go into details on it in this post.)

The trail to Cape Scott is 23.6km long from the trailhead to the lighthouse. Most of the trail is in thick coastal rainforest. After 16.8km in the forest, the trail emerges on the sandy beach of Nel’s Bight, where there is wonderful camping. From there, you can continue onwards to the Cape.

The Cape Scott area is the unceded traditional territory of the Kwakwaka’wakw peoples. They had a seasonal village at Experiment Bight and a permanent winter village at Cape Sutil. In the early 1900s, several hundred Danish settlers tried to homesteads and farms in the area. The trails you walk on the way to the cape today are remnants of their old roads and in some places you can see the remains of their settlements.

Cape Scott Basics

Trail Distance: 23.6km (one way from the trailhead to Cape Scott Lighthouse)

Trail Elevation Gain: 100m

How long does it take to hike to Cape Scott: 2-5 days

Best Time to Hike to Cape Scott: June to September

Cape Scott Weather: Cape Scott is usually cool and wet, even in the middle of summer. Temperatures between June and September are usually 8-15°C (46-59°F). June, July, and August are the driest months, but you can still expect lots of rain and fog.

Cape Scott Cost: $10/person/night for camping. Day hiking is free.

What to Bring to Cape Scott: Everything you need to be self-sufficient. Use my simple backpacking checklist to get your gear prepped for the hike.

Cape Scott Rules: No drones. No smoking, vaping, or cannabis. See the rules and tips section below for detailed rules about dogs and campfires. 

Further Resources: My book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island has a chapter about Cape Scott. Check the Cape Scott Provincial Park website before you go for trail updates and advisories. To find some of the historical items in the park, use this Cape Scott Park brochure. If you are interested in learning more about the area, I highly recommend picking up a copy of Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail by Maria Bremner. I used this book on my most recent trip to Cape Scott to find lots of off-the-beaten-path stuff.

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Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
• Advice for extending your trip
• Points of cultural and natural history

Get the book

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

Cape Scott Maps

Hiking to Cape Scott is straightforward, with signs at all junctions. For most hikers, the basic Cape Scott Provincial Park map is all you’ll need.

If you’re hiking the North Coast Trail or want a more detailed map, pick up a copy of the North Coast Trail Waterproof Map (which includes the Cape Scott Trail). It has some good info about history and points of interest. I’ve also used John Baldwin’s North Coast Trail map, but I don’t like it as much since it doesn’t have as much info.

I also made a custom Google map for you. It includes all the places I mention in this post. The main campsites and points of interest along the trail to Cape Scott are in red, additional side hikes are in orange. Info on how to get to Cape Scott is in blue. Zoom in and click around to see everything.

How to Get to Cape Scott

Driving to Cape Scott

Cape Scott Provincial Park is located at the very northern tip of Vancouver Island. The drive from Nanaimo to Cape Scott takes about 6 hours. To get to the Cape Scott Trailhead, start by driving the Island Highway (Highway 19) north. Just before the highway enters Port Hardy, turn left onto Holberg Road.

The road quickly turns to gravel. The remaining 60+km is on gravel logging roads. They are usually fine for 2WD vehicles but they can be bumpy, dusty, and muddy. Bring a spare tire and know how to change it as flats are common.

You will be sharing the road with industrial traffic including fully loaded logging trucks, so use caution. Always drive with your headlights on. Go slow around blind corners. Pull over to let faster vehicles pass. And definitely pull over if you see a logging trucks – they are very heavy and cannot stop quickly. 

All of the main junctions on the logging roads have signs with info about how to get to Cape Scott, so navigation is pretty easy. However, it can be helpful to bring a copy of the Vancouver Island BC Backroad Mapbook to stay on track.

From the highway turnoff, follow Holberg Road for 29km passing Kains Lake and Nahwitti Lake on your right. Watch for the famous Shoe Tree – people have been leaving old shoes here since the 1970s!

After Nahwitti Lake take the left fork onto NE 60 Road. You may not even notice the fork since it will seem like you stay on the same main road. Continue for another 16km to the small forestry town of Holberg.

Follow the main road through the town, then turn onto the San Josef Main Road. Continue on this road, following signs for Cape Scott at all forks for another 19km. Turn left into Cape Scott Park and reach the gravel parking lot a few minutes later. 

Cape Scott Shuttles and Water Taxis

If you don’t have your own car, you can also book a spot on the North Coast Trail Shuttle which leaves from Port Hardy. If you are hiking the North Coast Trail, you need to take a water taxi from Port Hardy to the start of the trail at Shushartie Bay.

You can get to Port Hardy without a car by taking the Island Link bus to Campbell River then the Wavin Flags Bus to Port Hardy. (Cape Scott, the North Coast Trail and San Josef Bay are on my list of the best car-free backpacking trips in BC.)

Where to Stay

Since it can take quite a long time to get to Cape Scott from southern Vancouver Island, many people choose to stay overnight in the area before their trip.

The nearest places to stay in a hotel are Port Hardy. When we hiked the North Coast Trail, we stayed at the Glen Lyon Inn in Port Hardy first. I also recently stayed at the indigenous-owned Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy. It’s gorgeous!

If you’re on a budget, the North Coast Trail Backpackers Hostel gets good reviews.

If you want to camp, here is a list of drive-in campgrounds on the way to the Cape Scott trailhead:

• Western Forest Products San Josef River Rec Site (Near the trailhead)
• San Josef Heritage Park (Near the trailhead)
• Nahwitti Lake Rec Site (In between Port Hardy and Holberg)
• Wildwoods Campsite (Port Hardy)
• Quatse River Campground (Port Hardy)
• Scotia Bay Resort (Port Hardy) – Phone (250) 949-6484
• Cluxewe Resort (Port McNeill)
• Broughton Strait Campground (Port McNeill) – Phone (250) 956-3224
• Cedar Park Resort (Port McNeill)

If you have time, plan to spend a few more days on northern Vancouver Island to experience the awesome whale watching, kayaking, indigenous sites, and grizzly bear tours. Read my post about the best things to do on North Vancouver Island.

Cape Scott Fees and Permits 

Unlike other popular coastal hikes like the West Coast Trail, hiking to Cape Scott is cheap and easy. There are no reservations – everything is first-come, first served.

You do need to buy a backcountry camping permit if you hike between May 1 and September 30. They cost $10/person/night for adults. (Kids are $5/night.) Print out a copy of your permit or save a screenshot on your phone as the rangers will ask to see it.

The easiest way to get a permit is to buy one online via the Backcountry Permits section of BC Parks’ Discover Camping portal. The earliest you can buy a permit is 2 weeks before your trip. You can also pay in cash at the trailhead.

If you take the shuttle to the trailhead or are doing the North Coast Trail and need to take a water taxi, that will also add to your costs.

READ NEXT: How to Go Backpacking in BC Without Reservations

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

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Cape Scott Trail Description

Trailhead to Eric Lake Campground

Distance: 3km | Elevation Gain: 75m | Time: 1 hour

At the trailhead, you will find an outhouse and a covered area with picnic tables. A few steps down the trail, a yurt hidden behind some trees serves as a ranger station. There is an info board with a map. If you need to pay fees in person, there is a station where you can deposit money in an envelope.

Don’t leave any food in your car. On one trip we saw a car with part of its rear quarter panel ripped off. Apparently, a bear broke in to eat the dog food stored inside.

Leaving the trailhead, the trail is a smooth crushed gravel highway. In the first minute, look for some huge old-growth cedar trees on the north (right) side of the trail. After about 1km, reach a T-junction. The trail to San Josef Bay heads left and your route to Cape Scott turns right.

Immediately after the junction, the trail becomes much rougher. It heads slightly uphill and becomes very wet and slippery as you work you way over sections of old settlers corduroy road. In can be very muddy through here, with lots of puddles.

Just before the 2km marker, arrive at another T-junction. If you continue straight, you’ll reach a viewpoint at the southern end of Eric Lake. Turn right to continue around the lake to the campground.

The next kilometre of trail features of lots of boardwalk that can be VERY slippery. The slower you walk, the less likely you will be to slip and fall. (Believe me, I’ve seen some nasty falls through here.) 

At about 2.7km from the trailhead, descend some stairs and cross a creek. The bridge here is made of a huge fallen log, with some railings for safety. However, the log surface can be slippery and there are only railings on one side, so be careful.

After the bridge, continue on boardwalk for a few more minutes to the Eric Lake campground. 

Eric Lake to Fisherman River

Distance: 6.3km | Elevation Gain/Loss: none | Time: 2 hours 

The Eric Lake campground has boardwalk paths to several tent platforms. Walk through the campground and cross a bridge. On the other side of the bridge is a junction. Going left will lead you down to the shore of Eric Lake and a small gravel beach that is a great place to take a break.

Turn right to continue towards Cape Scott. You’ll pass another cluster of tent platforms on your right, then the trail to the outhouse on your left.

Continue along the trail, following boardwalk for a few more minutes. The trail parallels Eric Lake, but you can’t really see it through the trees.

About 1km from the campground, look for a giant Sitka spruce tree beside the trail. It has a diameter of over 7m. Keep an eye for lots of other old-growth spruce trees in this section too.

The next section of trail follows the banks of St. Mary Creek. You can sometimes see it and hear it down the bank to your left, but you never get close to it. There are some awkward spots in this section as the trail is rocky and rooty. Watch for old telegraph wires strung along the trail.

Just after the 8km marker, the trail veers away from the creek slightly. The vegetation changes from lush old-growth forest to spindly trees in a more open and boggy forest.

The trail also changes into a long straight section of old settler corduroy road. If you look carefully, you can still see the drainage ditches on either side.

Just after the 9km mark, the trail gets a lot rougher. This section of trail is brand new, as the bridge over the Fisherman River was replaced a few years ago and this section of trail was built to connect it. Cross the fancy new bridge (built on top of a massive log).

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Fisherman River to Nel’s/Nissen Junction

Distance: 3.8km | Elevation Loss: 60m | Time: 1.5 hours 

On the other side of the bridge, follow the boardwalk and a small set of stairs to a junction. Turn right to go to the Fisherman River campground and outhouse. Go left to continue to Cape Scott. 

Almost immediately the lush rainforest around Fisherman River fades away and you emerge into a coastal bog. The landscape is dominated by small trees, lots of grass, and water running everywhere.

Thankfully there is lots of boardwalk through this section, and for the most part, the walking is easy. However, there are a few deep mud holes in between boardwalks that you will need to navigate around. 

As the bog ends and you reenter the forest, you’ll reach another junction. If you continue straight, you’ll reach Nissen Bight in 1.9km, which is the western terminus of the North Coast Trail.

Turn left to continue to Cape Scott. If you want to check out some history, there are several graves near here. About 1 minute before the junction, an unmarked trail heads slightly uphill into the forest on the east (right) side of the trail. Follow it for a few minutes to a beautiful marble memorial. It commemorates the life of the 12-year-old son of one of the Danish settlers who died of tetanus.

A faint trail on the west (left) side of the trail leads to several graves hidden in the salal. It’s hard to read the inscription on the gravestones, but they are all from early Danish settlers.

Nel’s/Nissen Junction to Nel’s Bight

Distance: 3.7km | Elevation Loss: 60m | Time: 1.5 hours 

From the junction, the trail heads downhill in the forest over some roots and rocks. A few minutes past the junction, arrive at an info board at the former Spencer Farm.

On the south (left) side of the trail, you will see the remains of a collapsed building. Look for a faint trail heading north (right) into the forest. Follow it through a grassy area and into heavy trees to find an old tractor wedged between two trees. It was the first motorized machine used at the Cape Scott settlement. There is also lots of historical garbage strewn around including parts of an old stove. 

About 1.6km from the junction, the trail emerges from the forest into an open area at with an info board. A faint trail continues straight through the long grass towards Hansen Lagoon. Turn right to continue to Cape Scott.

After the info board, the trail crosses a wooden bridge over Hansen Creek. On the other side, it heads back into the forest through a particularly muddy patch. The remaining 1.7km to Nel’s Bight is flat and fairly easy.

At first, you’ll walk through old-growth forest. Look carefully to spot evidence of Danish settlers logging. Two trails marked with wooden signs on your left lead to the edge of Hansen Lagoon.

As you get closer to the beach, the forest opens up and thick salal bushes line the trail. Soon, you’ll arrive at an info sign and dozens of fisherman’s buoys hanging in the trees. Step out of the trees on the sand.

You’ve finally made it to the beach campground at Nel’s Bight! The Kwakwaka’wakw know this beach as Tsewunchas, meaning “winter place”. 

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Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
• Advice for extending your trip
• Points of cultural and natural history

Get the book

Nel’s Bight to Guise Bay

Distance: 3.9km | Elevation Gain: 75m | Time: 1.5 hours 

To continue towards the Cape Scott Lighthouse from Nel’s Bight, head to the west end of the beach. Cross the creek where it flows out onto the sand and follow the shoreline for a minute or so. Look for a trail heading into the forest, marked with a hanging buoy.

Since the coastline here is impassable, the trail climbs up into the forest, gaining 75m in less than a kilometre. It’s one of the steepest bits of trail on the entire hike. 

About 2km from Nel’s Bight, the trail emerges from the forest onto Bowen Beach. Follow this sandy beach southwest for close to a kilometre. Watch for hanging buoys and follow them back into the forest.

Walk along the old corduroy road until you emerge onto the white sand of Guise Bay. The Kwakwaka’wakw call it Yichaledaz (where the canoes run ashore in heavy swell).

Guise Bay to Cape Scott Lighthouse

Distance: 2.9km | Elevation Loss: m | Time: 1 hour

Turn right and head west across Guise Bay. At the far end of the beach (before the big rocks) clamber over driftwood towards buoys marking the trail. Ignore a side trail heading into the dunes and onward to Experiment Bight. Stay on the main trail as it heads into the forest. 

Within a few minutes, you will encounter a huge section of blowdown. Hopefully, this section of trail will be repaired or a bypass trail will be built soon. In the meantime, clamber underneath the huge fallen trunks and pick up the trail on the other side.

Follow the WWII era plank road through the forest. If you look up, you may also see old power poles high above you.

A few minutes past the blowdown, a signed trail on the left descends a short distance to a gravel beach with some beautiful sea stacks.

About 2km from Guise Bay the old plank road turns into a rough gravel road that the lighthouse keepers drive their tractor on. A short trail on the left leads out to a small beach. Follow the gravel road up the hill. Go left at a major fork, and arrive at the Cape Scott Lighthouse a few minutes later. 

Two lighthouse keepers live here full time, so respect their privacy. However, they are often happy to come out and chat. There are two picnic tables where you can take a break. You can also climb the metal stairs up to the light for a great view.

The lighthouse keepers collect rainwater that tastes and looks much better than what you’ll find in the streams. If you want to fill your bottles, there’s a signed tap for hikers on the backside of the building on the far left as you approach the lighthouse complex. However, in dry weather, there may not be any water for hikers.

This is the end of the trail. There used to be a trail out to the end of the cape, but it had some dangerous bridges and boardwalks. It has been closed for several decades now.

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Other Trails in Cape Scott Provincial Park

San Josef Bay 

Distance: 2.5km | Elevation Gain/Loss: none | Time: 45 minutes

This short trail is mostly flat. It’s made of crushed gravel and boardwalk that is smooth enough to push a wheelchair or a stroller. (Although it’s definitely not pavement so use caution as there are some bumps and steeper bits).

From the trailhead, follow the trail nearly 1km to a junction. Turn left and continue through the old-growth cedar forest. Emerge on the beach at San Josef Bay.

Try to time your visit for low tide. You can explore beautiful sea stacks at the west end of the beach or continue around the headland to the second beach. You can camp here too.

Adventurous hikers can continue past San Josef Bay on a rough trail to the summit of 417m-tall Mount St. Patrick, 2km from west San Josef beach. The trail continues down the other side of the mountain to Sea Otter Cove (5.6km from San Josef) and Lowrie Bay (7.5km from San Josef).

These trails are rough and seldom-travelled, so they are best for experienced hikers only. 

Nissen Bight

Distance: 1.9km | Elevation Loss: 60m | Time: 30 minutes

From the Nel’s/Nissen Junction, it’s an easy downhill hike to Nissen Bight. In wet weather, the trail can be very muddy and slippery. The path follows an old Danish settlers’ road. Just before the trail reaches the beach, a side trail heads right to Fisherman’s Bay. 

The settlers would land boats full of supplies there, then haul them up this road to their homesteads near Hansen Lagoon. The Kwakwaka’wakw call this beach Kechegwis, which means “wood drifted on beach”.

Nissen Bight is a quieter alternative campsite to Nel’s Bight. It’s also the western terminus of the North Coast Trail.

Hansen Lagoon

Distance: Up to 1.5km | Elevation Gain/Loss: none | Time: Up to 40 minutes

The Kwakwaka’wakw call this tidal lagoon Wachlalis, which means “river on the beach in the bay”. Over 100 years ago, Danish settler built a series of dykes across Hansen Lagoon to convert the tidal salt marsh to pastures. Their dykes and fences survive today.

You can follow three different rough trails to see them. Watch for wildlife in the lagoon. We spooked a black bear on my last visit and saw over a dozen eagles feeding.

The first trail leaves from the signboard at Hansen Lagoon just before the bridge. Follow the grassy trail in between the old fence posts. There are a few drainage ditches to cross, which can be challenging.

The trail dead-ends behind the dyke. Some maps show trails branching off this trail to the south, but I couldn’t find them. I suspect they are very overgrown and boggy.

There are also two trails to Hansen Lagoon on the south side of the trail just before Nel’s Bight. They are both marked with wooden signs. Both trails wind through the woods for a minute before dead-ending in boggy areas.

The one marked Hansen Lagoon has a good view down the length of the lagoon. The other one, marked Second Dyke, deadends beside the tree-covered dyke.

Experiment Bight

Distance: 0.5km |  Time: 15 minutes

Follow the trail over the dunes from the west end of Guise Bay to the sandy beach of Experiment Bight. You can see old Danish settler fenceposts in the dunes. There is a great view from the top of the dunes and you are likely to have the beach all to yourself.

The Kwakwaka’wakw call this area Gwigwakawalis, which means “whales on the beach”.

North Coast Trail

Distance: 43km | Time: 5 days

The North Coast Trail is billed as an alternative to the West Coast Trail. It starts at the east end of Cape Scott Provincial park with a water taxi drop off at Shushartie Bay.

From there, the trail follows the coast, sometimes through upland mud bogs, sometimes on rocky beaches. Cable cars help you across rivers and boardwalks keep you out of some (but not most) of the mud. The trail ends at Nissen Bight, and from there, hikers follow the Cape Scott trail out to the trailhead.

I hiked the trail in 2008, the first year it was open and again in 2021. It’s definitely a tough trail and is best for experienced backpackers. Read my compete North Coast Trail Guide to plan your trip.

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Camping at Cape Scott

Eric Lake Campground

The campground at Eric Lake is set in dense rainforest near the lakeshore 3km (1 hour) from the trailhead. It’s a good place to stay if you got a late start on the trail. Take the short trail to Eric Lake to relax on the gravel beach.

Campsites: 11 wooden tent pads connected by boardwalk

Toilet: outhouse on the left side of the trail towards Cape Scott

Water: collect from the stream running through the centre of the campground or from Eric Lake

Food Storage: Food lockers on the left of the trail in the centre of the campground

Fisherman River

This campsite is set in dense forest 9.3km from the trailhead and isn’t too appealing. However, it can be a good place to stay if you need to break up the long hike to Nel’s Bight or Nissen Bight into two days. 

Campsites: 2 wooden tent pads

Toilet: outhouse at the entrance to the campground

Water: collect from Fisherman River next to the bridge

Food Storage: Food locker near the outhouse

Nel’s Bight

This is the most popular campground on the Cape Scott Trail, and arguably the most beautiful. You will hike 16.8km from the trailhead to get here. It’s a broad sandy beach that gets amazing sunsets.

It’s a great place to base yourself for a day hike to the cape. There’s a ranger on staff here in the summer, stationed in a cabin at the east end of the beach. If you visit in the winter, you can stay in the cabin!

Campsites: Unlimited space on the beach above the high tide line

Toilet: Three outhouses – one where the trail meets the beach, one just past the ranger station, and one on the other side of the creek

Water: Collect from the creek on the west side of the beach. Follow signs into the forest to pools in the creek

Food Storage: Food lockers where the trail meets the beach, next to the outhouse near the ranger station, and on the west side of the beach before you cross the creek.

Nissen Bight

Nissen Bight is 15km from the trailhead. It is smaller than Nel’s Bight and sees far fewer visitors. Many people camp here after finishing the North Coast Trail.

It’s a good spot if you reach the Nel’s/Nissen Junction and feel too tired to get all the way to Nel’s. I stayed here on one of my trips to Cape Scott, and it was definitely more chill than Nel’s Bight.

Campsites: Unlimited space on the beach above the high tide line

Toilet: Outhouse at the west end of the beach where the Cape Scott trail enters

Water: Collect from the creek on the east side of the beach near the North Coast Trail entrance. It’s a long 1km walk from the Cape Scott Trail entrance

Food Storage: Food lockers at the east and west ends of the beach.

Guise Bay

The beautiful white sand of Guise Bay is 20.7km from the trailhead. It’s a lot quieter than Nel’s Bight. From Guise Bay, it’s a short and easy hike to Cape Scott or to explore the nearby dunes and Experiment Bight.

Campsites: Unlimited space on the beach above the high tide line

Toilet: Outhouse on a spur trail to the left of the main trail

Water: Collect from the creek at the southeast end of the beach. It can run dry in late summer

Food Storage: Food locker near the outhouse.

San Josef Bay

At just 2.5km from the trailhead, San Josef Bay is a popular spot for families and beginners. Unfortunately, it can also attract partiers. There are actually two beaches here.

The first beach is right where the trail hits the sand. The second beach is past some sea stacks and around a rocky headland. It’s an easy walk on the beach to get there at low tide. At high tide, there is a rough, scrambly, and dangerous overland trail that is not recommended.

Campsites: Unlimited space on both beaches above the high tide line

Toilet: One outhouse at each beach

Water: Collect from the creek at the end of the second beach. Plan to collect water at low tide or pack in water from the trailhead

Food Storage: Food lockers at both beaches.

North Coast Trail

There are six wilderness campsites along the North Coast Trail: Shushartie Bay, Skinner Creek, Nahwitti River, Cape Sutil, Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) and Laura Creek. They each have an outhouse and food locker. They all have a nearby water source except Shushartie Bay.

Read my North Coast Trail Itinerary and Section-by-Section Overview for full details on each campsite.

Wilderness Camping

Random wilderness camping is allowed throughout the park. Be prepared to hang your food in a tree out of reach of animals and use Leave No Trace practices for going to the bathroom.

Lowrie Bay and Experiment Bight see a handful of campers each year. Other pocket beaches on the trail can also be great campsites. Just be sure to put your tent well above the high tide line.

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Cape Scott Rules and Tips

Coastal Hiking Tips

Coastal hiking and backpacking is a lot different than hiking in the forest or mountains. I’ve got some Cape Scott specific tips below, but for general advice, head on over to my coastal hiking tips post. After over 15 coastal hiking trips to beaches in British Columbia and Washington, I’ve got tons of coastal hiking pointers for you.

Wildlife at Cape Scott

Cape Scott is home to a large black bear population. They like to forage for food along the beaches and in the estuaries. They often use hiking trails as travel routes. When I hiked the north coast trail we saw a LOT of bears. I’ve also seen bears in Hansen Lagoon.

On my most recent trip, we had an uncomfortable encounter with a bear on the sea stack beach on the way to Cape Scott. The bear was feeding on the beach, blocking our route back to the trail, and walking towards us. After yelling didn’t work, we had to fire bangers to scare it off the beach as it was habituated to people and didn’t want to move.

Make lots of noise as you hike. Carry bear spray. Never camp or linger near a dead animal. Read my tips for bear safety.

There are also lots of wolves at Cape Scott. A few years ago we had a wolf run right up to our campfire at Nel’s Bight. On my last visit, I saw lots of wolf tracks, but no actually wolves.

To avoid attracting wolves, keep a clean camp, and always store your food properly. Poop in outhouses since wolves are just big dogs and want to eat and/or roll in your poop.

If you see a wolf, scare it off by gathering your group together, making yourself look big by raising your arms or opening your coat, and yelling. Never run.

If a wolf attacks, fight back. Never camp or linger near a dead animal. 

Cape Scott, like the rest of Vancouver Island, is also home to cougars. Cougar sightings are very rare. If you see a cougar, follow the same tips for wolves above. 

You can also spot lots of other wildlife at Cape Scott. I’ve seen whales, sea lions, mink, seals, and eagles. 

Dogs at Cape Scott

Cape Scott has a large wolf population. Wolves are very territorial and will attack dogs since they see them as a threat. In most areas of Cape Scott Provincial Park, dogs are prohibited.

The only place dogs are allowed is at San Josef Bay, and they must be on a leash at all times. However, the best way to protect your dog from wolves is to leave him or her at home.

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

Water Sources at Cape Scott

The terrain around Cape Scott is coastal bog, which means that freshwater can be hard to find, especially late in the summer and in periods of dry weather. All of the freshwater in the park has a dark tea colour from the tannins in the soil.

You should treat all water by purifying, filtering, or boiling it. If you use a filter, consider straining the water through a clean bandana or coffee filter first to get some of the silt and tannins out. Your filter may also get clogged, so make sure you know how to clean it.

Here are the main places to find water along the trail and at the campgrounds. See the trail description above for more details:

• Eric Lake
• Fisherman River 
• West end of Nel’s Bight
• South end of Guise Bay
• Cape Scott Lighthouse
• Second (west) beach at San Josef Bay
• East end of Nissen Bight

Tides at Cape Scott

Unlike the West Coast Trail and most other coastal trails in BC, tides are not a problem on the main trail to Cape Scott. While you may have less beach to walk on at high tide, all parts of the trail are still accessible.

However, the North Coast Trail and the trail to Lowrie Bay do have tidal obstacles. The main reason to pay attention to the tides at Cape Scott is to pick a good campsite well above the high tide mark.

Print out the Cape Scott tide table and carry it with you. There may also be tide tables posted on the info boards at the trailhead and at Nel’s Bight.

Campfires at Cape Scott

Campfires are permitted in Cape Scott Provincial Park as long as there isn’t a regional fire ban in place. (Check the BC Fire Ban website before you go. Cape Scott is in the Coastal Region.)

At coastal campsites, collect driftwood from the beach. Build your campfire in an existing fire ring or make one below the high tide line. Make a small fire and don’t burn big driftwood logs so that there is lots of wood left for everyone.

Recently I learned that burning driftwood can create toxic smoke from the salt build up in the logs. So you may want to skip the campfire entirely.

When you are done, use water to douse your fire to make sure it is completely out. Don’t smother your fire with sand. It can continue to smoulder under the sand and can injure people. During my most recent trip to Cape Scott, a 12-year-old boy had to be evacuated by helicopter after he burned his foot by stepping in embers from an old campfire!

The inland campground at Eric Lake has a metal fire pit. If you must build a fire, do it in the metal fire pit instead of building your own. However, this campground is in dense coastal forest where finding dry firewood will be extremely difficult. Don’t cut down live trees for firewood as they don’t burn well. Instead, look around for small dry branches.

Cape Scott is such a special place, especially when the sun comes out. I’m sure you’ll have a great hike. If you need help planning your trip, as always, ask me in the comments. I love to help.

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The post Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.