coastal Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/coastal/ Sharing advice, info and inspiration about my happy place: the Great Outdoors. Fri, 30 Jan 2026 22:32:15 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3 https://happiestoutdoors.ca/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/cropped-favicon@3x-32x32.png coastal Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/coastal/ 32 32 25 Best Backpacking Trips in BC https://dawnoutdoors.com/backpacking-trips-in-bc/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/backpacking-trips-in-bc/#comments Wed, 15 Oct 2025 00:41:50 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=12662 Ever since I discovered backpacking nearly 20 years ago, it’s been my favourite outdoor activity. Some of my most memorable backpacking trips have been close to home in British Columbia. So I put together a list of the best backpacking trips in BC. I’ve done all of these trips, some of them multiple times. I’ve …

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Ever since I discovered backpacking nearly 20 years ago, it’s been my favourite outdoor activity. Some of my most memorable backpacking trips have been close to home in British Columbia. So I put together a list of the best backpacking trips in BC.

I’ve done all of these trips, some of them multiple times. I’ve also done lots of other backpacking trips across BC that didn’t make the list, so you can rest assured that these are the best of the best.

For each trip, I’ve got all the details you need to make it happen: difficulty, duration, distance, best time to go, fees, reservations, and links to trail guides.

The trips on this list are:

  • Vacation-worthy – you won’t mind travelling a bit to get there
  • Located all over BC including near Vancouver, on Vancouver Island, and in Eastern BC including the Rocky Mountains.
  • For hikers of all abilities – there are trips for both beginners and experts, and lots in between. (I’ve also got a whole list of Easy Backpacking Trips In BC For Beginners.)
  • Great for any vacation length from quick overnighters to long-weekend-length trips to week long epics.
  • Great for planners or last-minute trips: A few of these trips require reservations, but most do not.

Here’s a handy map I made for you that shows the locations for each of my picks for the best backpacking trips in BC.

Google maps showing the locations of the best backpacking trips in BC
Click the map to zoom in and explore.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Best Backpacking Trips Near Vancouver

Howe Sound Crest Trail

Hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail near Vancouver, one of the best bacpacking trips in BC
Hiking near the Lions on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Duration: 2-4 days

Distance: 31.7 km traverse

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Fees and Reservations: None.

The Trail: The Howe Sound Crest Trail is very rough and difficult. Honestly, it is more like a route in some places and requires occasional hands-on scrambling moves as you traverse a chain of rocky summits high above Howe Sound near Vancouver. If you’re up for the challenge, the views are worth it.

More Info:

Watersprite Lake

Watersprite Lake in Squamish, one of BC's best overnight backpacking destinations
Watersprite Lake

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 17 km round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Both the hut and campground require reservations and fees.

The Trail: Watersprite Lake is an Instagram sensation thanks to its ice blue water and dramatic rock tower. We can credit the BC Mountaineering Club for building the trail to the lake along with a cabin and campground. I think it’s one of the best hikes in Squamish.

More Info:

Elfin Lakes

The ranger station at Elfin Lakes
The ranger station at north Elfin Lake

Heads up: Day passes are required at Garibaldi Lake in summer and early fall. However, if you have a backcountry camping reservation, you don’t need a day pass. Learn more in my guide to BC Parks day passes.

Duration: 2 to 4 days

Distance: 22 km round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and camping fees are required.

The Trail: Even though the hike to Elfin Lakes is on an old road, it’s worth doing since the views are so incredible. You can see Mount Garibaldi/Nch’kay and lots of glaciers. Its worth spending more than one night at the Elfin Lakes campground or Elfin Lakes Shelter to do some of the great day hikes.

More Info:

Get My Book…

Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia

A one-stop resource for backpackers in beautiful British Columbia.

  • 40 backpacking trips within a few hours of Vancouver
  • Info about permits, reservations, and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
3D cover of Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia Book

Garibaldi Lake

Garibaldi Lake in Squamish is a popular place for an overnight backpacking trip
Hikers swimming in Garibaldi Lake

Heads up: Day passes are required at Garibaldi Lake in summer and early fall. However, if you have a backcountry camping reservation, you don’t need a day pass. Learn more in my guide to BC Parks day passes.

Duration: 2 to 4 days

Distance: 18 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and fees are required for camping.

The Trail: Located just north of Squamish, Garibaldi Lake is one of the most popular backpacking trips in BC. But it’s also one of the most picturesque with tumbling glaciers, alpine meadows, and unique volcanic geology. From the lake, you can tackle incredible day hikes like Black Tusk and Panorama Ridge.

More Info:

Russet Lake

A man wearing a large backpack at Russet Lake near Whistler
Backpackers leaving Russet Lake

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 25 to 29 km round trip

Difficulty: Challenging

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and fees are required for camping and the hut.

The Trail: Nestled into the mountains above Whistler, Russet Lake is home to a backcountry campground and a luxurious hut. There are two ways to get there: a steep trail from the village or an undulating traverse across mountain summits from the top of the Whistler Gondola via the High Note Trail.

More Info:

Joffre Lakes

The view from above Upper Joffre Lake near Whistler
Looking down from above Upper Joffre Lake

Heads up: Day passes are required at Joffre Lakes in summer and early fall. However, if you have a backcountry camping reservation, you don’t need a day pass. Learn more in my guide to BC Parks day passes.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 10 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and fees are required for camping.

The Trail: The chain of three Joffre Lakes near Pemberton make up one of the Vancouver area’s most popular day hikes. But leave the day-time crowds behind by scoring a coveted reservation to camp at the Upper Lake. Listen for chunks of glacier crashing down the rocks on warm days. This is also one of my picks for the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More Info:

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Sunshine Coast Trail

Tin Hat Hut on the Sunshine Coast Trail
Tin Hat Hut on the second-highest point of the Sunshine Coast Trail

Duration: 8-14 days

Distance: 180 km traverse

Difficulty: Challenging

Fees and Reservations: None.

The Trail: The Sunshine Coast Trail winds through the forests along the length of the upper Sunshine Coast near the town of Powell River. Hike by the ocean, through old-growth forest, and across mountain tops, staying in rustic backcountry huts along the way.

More Info:

Heather Trail

The Heather Trail in Manning Provincial Park
Late season flowers along the Heather Trail in Manning Provincial Park

Duration: 2 to 5 days

Distance: 45 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and fees are required for Buckhorn and Kicking Horse campgrounds. Nicomen Lake Campground is first-come, first-served and fees are required.

The Trail: The Heather Trail is Manning Park’s signature trail. With a start high in the alpine, you stay above treeline in meadows of wildflowers for nearly the entire length. Take a side trip to summit Three Brothers Mountain and dip in chilly Nicomen Lake.

More Info:

Frosty Mountain

Larches on Frosty Mountain Manning Provincial Park
Hikers walk through larch trees on the trail to Frosty Mountain

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 14 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees are required year-round. Reservations are required between late July and late October.

The Trail: Frosty Mountain is the highest mountain in Manning Park and it has panoramic views. Break up your hike by camping at Frosty Creek camp. Plan your visit for fall when the larch tree needles turn golden.

More Info:

Get My Book…

Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia

A one-stop resource for backpackers in beautiful British Columbia.

  • 40 backpacking trips within a few hours of Vancouver
  • Info about permits, reservations, and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
3D cover of Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia Book

Best Backpacking Trips on Vancouver Island

Juan de Fuca Trail

A backpacker on Bear Beach on the Juan de Fuca Trail on Vancouver Island
Hiking along the beach on the Juan de Fuca Trail

Heads up: The Juan de Fuca Trail will be closed in 2025 due to significant storm damage. It is not possible to hike the entire trail, but you can visit and camp at Mystic Beach and East Sombrio Beach.

Duration: 3 to 5 days

Distance: 47 km

Difficulty: Challenging

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees are required. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

The Trail: The Juan de Fuca Trail is a gorgeous coastal trail is easier to access than the West Coast Trail thanks to first-come, first-served camping and trailheads close to Victoria. But the hike is just as challenging and spectacular, making it easy to include on a list of the best backpacking trips in BC.

More Info:

West Coast Trail

A backpacker climbs a ladder on the West Coast Trail
One of the many ladders on the West Coast Trail

Duration: 5-8 days

Distance: 75 km

Difficulty: Challenging

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and camping fees are required. You will also need to pay National Park entry fees.

The Trail: The West Coast Trail is Canada’s premier multi-day backpacking trip. It follows the wild coastline for 75 kilometres, up and down ladders, across cable cars, through mud holes, and along beautiful beaches as it travels between the isolated towns of Port Renfrew and Bamfield.

More Info:

Della Falls Trail

A hiker admires the base of Della Falls from the Della Falls Trail

Duration: 2-5 days

Distance: 32 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: No reservations or fees are needed for camping. But if you want to take a water taxi to the trailhead, you’ll need to book in advance.

The Trail: Della Falls is one of the tallest waterfalls in BC at 440 m tall. (Some sources claim it’s the tallest waterfall in Canada, but that’s not true.)

The hike starts with a boat trip across Great Central Lake. From there you hike up a river valley to the base of the falls. Allow time for the 6 km side trip to Love Lake where there is an incredible view of the entire waterfall from above.

More Info:

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

Wild Side Trail

Backpackers hiking on the beach on the Wild Side Trail near Tofino
Hiking along the beach on the Wild Side Trail near Tofino

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 22 km round trip

Difficulty: Easy

Fees and Reservations: No reservations required but you must pay trail fees and water taxi fees.

The Trail: The Wild Side Trail takes you along the shoreline of Flores Island in Ahousaht First Nation territory. Most of the hike is along incredible sandy beaches. The trail is a short water taxi ride from Tofino. This off-the-beaten-path hike doesn’t get many visitors, making it one of the quietest hikes on this list of the best backpacking trips in BC.

More Info:

Circlet Lake and Mount Albert Edward

A hiker walks through rocks on the summit ridge of Mount Albert Edward
Hiking towards the summit of Mount Albert Edward

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 31 km round trip

Difficulty: Challenging

Fees and Reservations: No reservations required (all campsites are first-come, first-served) but you must pay camping fees.

The Trail: Summit Mount Albert Edward, one of the highest peaks on Vancouver Island. On the way, you’ll stay at tiny Circlet Lake. This Strathcona Provincial Park trip starts at Mount Washington and is a rite of passage for many Vancouver Island hikers.

More Info:

Bedwell Lakes

A hiker enjoys the view of Bedwell Lake, one of the best backpacking trips on Vancouver Island
Looking down to Bedwell Lake

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 22 km round trip

Difficulty: Challenging

Fees and Reservations: No reservations required (all campsites are first-come, first-served) but you must pay camping fees.

The Trail: Climb steeply up through the forest to emerge on the granite shores of Bedwell and Baby Bedwell Lakes, each with their own campground. Intrepid hikers can continue to isolated Cream Lake, which makes a great day trip destination. The trailhead is in a remote area near Buttle Lake in Strathcona Provincial Park.

More Info:

Elk River Trail and Landslide Lake

Landslide Lake on the Elk River Trail in Strathcona Provincial Park - one of the best backpacking trips in BC
Landslide Lake at the end of the Elk River Trail

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 22 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: No reservations required (all campsites are first-come, first-served) but you must pay camping fees.

The Trail: Follow the trail through a beautiful forest alongside the shady Elk River to its terminus at picturesque Landslide Lake and great views of Mount Colonel Foster. There are two campgrounds along the river to choose from. Find the trailhead along the highway to Gold River.

More Info:

Nootka Trail

Backpackers on the beach on the Nootka Trail on Vancouver Island - one of the best backpacking trips in BC
Hiking on the beach on the Nootka Trail

Duration: 3 to 5 days

Distance: 35 km traverse

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: No reservations required. You must pay camping fees. You also need to book in advance for the water taxi or float plane.

The Trail: Arrange a water taxi or floatplane to shuttle you to the Nootka Trail on Nootka Island near Gold River. It’s a remote coastal hike that sees few visitors but has incredible scenery. Highlights include sandy beaches, wolf sightings, Calvin Falls, and the tiny Mowachaht First Nation village of Yuquot.

More Info:

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

North Coast Trail

Tents on the beach on the North Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, one of BC's best backpacking trips
Tents on the beach on the North Coast Trail

Duration: 4 to 5 days

Distance: 43 to 59 km traverse

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Fees and Reservations: No reservations required (all campsites are first-come, first-served) but you must pay camping fees. You also need to book the water taxi in advance.

The Trail: The rough and rugged North Coast Trail follows the coastline around the northern tip of Vancouver Island. Start with a water taxi from Port Hardy, then get ready for lots of mud, steep hills with rope assists, and rocky beaches.

More Info:

Cape Scott Trail

Guise Bay on the Cape Scott Trail - one of the best backpacking trips on Vancouver Island
Guise Bay on the Cape Scott Trail

Duration: 3 days

Distance: 47 km

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: No reservations required (all campsites are first-come, first-served) but you must pay camping fees.

The Trail: The Cape Scott Trail follows an old settler’s route through the muddy forest to the wild beaches at the north end of Vancouver Island. Choose from several campsites on sandy beaches, then day hike out to the Cape Scott Lighthouse.

More Info:

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Best Backpacking Trips in Eastern BC and the Rocky Mountains

Kaslo Lake

A backpacking tent in front of a still lake at Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park in British Columbia
Backcountry campground at Kalso Lake at Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 18 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: No reservations required for camping (all campsites are first-come, first-served) but you must pay camping fees. Reservations and fees required for the hut.

The Trail: Hike into the backcountry of Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park near Nelson to camp next to Kaslo Lake. Follow beautiful trails through the alpine to viewpoints and peaks. You can also book the palatial Kokanee Glacier Cabin nearby.

More Info:

Eva and Jade Lakes

Eva Lake in Mount Revelstoke National Park is one of the best backpacking trips in BC
Eva Lake in Mount Revelstoke National Park

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 12 to 18 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and camping fees are required. You will also need to pay National Park entry fees.

The Trail: This alpine hike is easily accessible thanks to the paved Meadows in the Sky Parkway at Mount Revelstoke National Park. Walk through the alpine to a beautiful campsite on the shores of Eva Lake, an easy distance for beginners and made my list of beginner-friendly backpacking trips in BC. If you want more solitude, head over a pass to Jade Lake.

More Info:

Mount Assiniboine

View of Sunburst Peak from the Nublet at Mount Assiniboine
View of Sunburst Peak from the Nublet at Mount Assiniboine

Duration: 4 to 6 days

Distance: 52 to 55 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and camping fees are required. You will also need to pay National Park entry fees if you camp in Banff National Park on the way to the trail.

The Trail: The scenery at Mount Assiniboine is postcard-worthy, but getting there can be a challenge. The hike itself is long, but not too difficult and the camping at Lake Magog is gorgeous. But it requires reservations in both a BC Park and Banff National Park, which can be tough to arrange.

More Info:

Rockwall Trail

A backpacker takes a break near a glacier on the Rockwall Trail in Kootenay National Park. This is one of the best backpacking trips in BC
Taking a break near the Tumbling Glacier on the Rockwall Trail

Duration: 4 to 5 days

Distance: 55 km traverse

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and camping fees are required. You will also need to pay National Park entry fees.

The Trail: The spectacular Rockwall Trail traverses the mountains of Kootenay National Park near Banff, climbing up and over several high passes. There are glacier views, alpine lakes, and the best wildflower meadows I’ve ever seen. I think it has the best effort to reward ratio of all the backpacking trips in BC.

More Info:

Yoho Valley Loop/Iceline and Whaleback Trails

Three hikers with large backpacking packs on the Iceline Trail (part of the Yoho Valley Loop) in Yoho National Park. They are walking through a rocky landscape with glaciers on the mountain behind them.
Backpackers on the Iceline Trail.

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 29.4 km loop

Difficulty: Challenging

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and camping fees are required. You will also need to pay National Park entry fees.

The Trail: Combine several trails in Yoho National Park near Field to make an epic loop that takes in the spectacular Iceline and Whaleback Trails. The views of nearby peaks and waterfalls are breathtaking. Choose from two backcountry campgrounds along the way.

More Info:

Berg Lake

A hiker taking a photo at Berg Lake, one of the best backpacking trips in BC
A backpacker takes a photo of the glacier at Berg Lake

Duration: 2 to 4 days

Distance: 42 km round trip

Difficulty: Moderate

Fees and Reservations: Reservations and camping fees are required.

The Trail: The incredible Berg Lake Trail near Valemount follows the Robson River uphill to Berg Lake, named for the glaciers crashing into it from Mount Robson, the tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Plan to spend a few days in the area to tackle spectacular day hikes.

More Info:

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Final Thoughts

So there you have it: 25 recommendations for the best backpacking trips in BC. How many of these trips have you done? Is there an amazing backpacking destination that I left off the list? Tell me in the comments.

Discover BC’s best backpacking trips

  • 40 backpacking trips within a few hours of Vancouver
  • 35 backpacking trips and day hikes on Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations, and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
Book covers for Bakpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and Backpacking on Vancouver Island

MORE BC BACKPACKING DESTINATIONS:

BC BACKPACKING RESERVATION INFO:

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2026 West Coast Trail Hiking Guide https://dawnoutdoors.com/guide-to-the-west-coast-trail/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/guide-to-the-west-coast-trail/#comments Thu, 02 May 2024 22:28:55 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=6704 The West Coast Trail is one of the best-known hiking trails in Canada. It covers 75km through some of the toughest and most beautiful terrain in British Columbia’s coastal rainforest. I first hiked the WCT 20 years ago. In fact, it was my first backpacking trip ever! I was SO unprepared! (But I still loved …

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The West Coast Trail is one of the best-known hiking trails in Canada. It covers 75km through some of the toughest and most beautiful terrain in British Columbia’s coastal rainforest.

I first hiked the WCT 20 years ago. In fact, it was my first backpacking trip ever! I was SO unprepared! (But I still loved it!)

I hiked the West Coast Trail again recently to research my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. This time I had years of backpacking experience to draw upon.

But I knew that wasn’t enough – the West Coast Trail has some unique logistical challenges and terrain that require lots of advance planning and preparation. I did tons of research beforehand, made sure I had the right gear and was in shape. And my second West Coast Trail hike was soooo much more enjoyable.

I’ve gathered all the WCT prep info you’ll need in this guide for you. It’s completely updated with info and fees for 2026.

This West Coast Trail hiking guide includes:

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

WCT Quick Facts

Location: Pacific Rim National Park near Bamfield and Port Renfrew on the West Coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada.

Distance: Officially, 75km. But unofficially it’s at least 10km longer.

Difficulty: Challenging due to the technical terrain.

Time: Around 7 days. Check out my West Coast Trail Itineraries for more info.

Cost: $325.25 per person, plus transportation costs

Reservations: Open each year in January and sell-out in less than an hour.

Best Time to Go: July and August

Trail Description: The trail follows the wilderness coastline. There is lots of mud, boardwalk, and sand. You must also cross cable cars and use ladders.

There is too much info about the West Coast Trail to fit it all in one post. The post you are reading has a general overview about the trail. But for more specifics, check out the companion posts:

West Coast Trail Distance, Duration, and Difficulty

How Long is the West Coast Trail?

According to Parks Canada, the WCT is 75 km long (46.5 miles).

However… the trail has been rerouted countless times over the years, but Parks Canada has never adjusted the trail distance. When I hiked it, our GPS measured about 86 km (53.5 miles) of hiking. My friend’s GPS measured 96km!

How Many Days Does it Take to Hike the West Coast Trail?

It takes most people about 7 days to hike the WCT.

Some people hike it in five or 6 days and others take their time and allow 8 or 9 days. Trail runners have even blasted through it in less than 10 hours! The first time I hiked the West Coast Trail we did it in 6 days. On my most recent trip, my group completed the trail in 7 days.

Most of the people we met on the trail were also on a 7-day itinerary. I’ve got full details on the standard 7-day itinerary for you, as well as tons of other itinerary options for 3-10 days in my West Coast Trail itineraries post.

How Difficult is the West Coast Trail?

I’d say the WCT is moderately difficult for fit people and experienced hikers. If you’ve never done a multi-day hike before, you will find the West Coast Trail really difficult!

In general, to hike the WCT you will need to be able to walk about 12km a day or more on uneven and difficult terrain while carrying 30-40lbs in your backpack.

I don’t recommend doing the West Coast Trail as your first backpacking trip ever. It actually was my first backpacking trip way back in 2004. While I did have a great time overall, it was incredibly difficult. I cried. I was NOT prepared to carry that much weight. At the end of each day I was EXHAUSTED and ended up taking painkillers with breakfast every morning to get through it.

When I did the WCT again, I had 15 years of backpacking experience under my belt. It made for a much more enjoyable trip, but I have to admit that it was still really challenging. Trust me: Get some experience backpacking before you try the West Coast Trail.

Even though you don’t have to hike long distances each day, the terrain is really technical. There are lots of sections with roots, rocks, deep sand, and mud holes to navigate through, over and around. The wooden boardwalks are easier to hike on, but they are often very slippery or damaged.

The ladders and cable cars are also very physically challenging, especially while wearing a heavy pack. Hikers with a fear of heights can struggle in these sections.

In the hardest sections, your hiking speed will be about 1 km an hour. Overall, we found our average hiking speed was usually around 2-2.5 km an hour. That’s pretty slow!

For a full run down of each part of the West Coast Trail, including difficult ratings, check out my West Coast Trail Section-By-Section Overview.

A ladder on the West Coast Trail
One of the MANY ladders on the West Coast Trail

When to Hike the West Coast Trail

Most years, the West Coast Trail is open between May 1 and September 30 each year. (The trail is closed from October 1 to April 30 due to bad weather, lots of rain and high tides.)

The most popular time to hike the trail is in July and August when the weather is best and many hikers have summer holidays. I’ve hiked the trail in late June and mid-August. Both times I was soooo lucky with mostly dry weather.

The weather can be wetter in May and September so it is easier to get a reservation during those months. However, you can get torrential downpours at any time of year.

Another consideration is the tides. If you have flexibility in your schedule, consult the Tofino tide tables. Try to find dates where the low tide is in the middle of the day so you can maximize the time you spend walking on the beach, rather than in the forest. 

Fees and Reservations

How Much Does the West Coast Trail Cost?

The short answer: $325.25 per person plus transportation costs. The typical hiker will pay about $410.25.

The long answer: The total cost of hiking the West Coast Trail will vary depending on which transportation options you choose, how many days you spend on the trail and which trailhead you decide to start at. Here’s a simple breakdown of costs for a typical WCT hike for one person starting from either Gordon River or Pachena Bay. Prices are accurate for the 2025 season.

  • Trail permit: $166.75
  • Reservation fee: $25.75
  • Ferry fees: $56
  • National Park entry fee: $11/person/day for 7 days: $77 (Note: If you are travelling with a group of 3 or more, it can make sense to purchase a Parks Canada Discovery Pass for $145.25. It’s an annual pass that covers up to 7 people in the same vehicle.)
  • West Coast Trail Express Shuttle Gordon River to Pachena Bay (or vice versa): $95 (Note: This assumes you drive yourself to one of the trailheads. See my transportation post for more info on getting to the trailheads by bus.)

Typical Cost to Hike the West Coast Trail: $410.25.

Hikers walking on the coastal shelf on the West Coast Trail
Walking on the coastal shelf

How to Make West Coast Trail Reservations

You MUST make advance reservations to hike the West Coast Trail. In the past, there were some first-come, first-served spots each day. However, since 2018, all permits for the entire season are reservable; there are no stand-by spots.

To make a reservation, visit the Parks Canada website. West Coast Trail reservations for 2026 open on January 19, 2026 at 8 am PT.

There are spots for 70 people to start the WCT each day: 25 from Gordon River, 25 from Pachena Bay and 20 from Nitinaht Narrows.

Be ready to make your reservation right at 8:00 am as popular dates book up in under 5 minutes! Pro tip: If you don’t already have one, make a Parks Canada online booking account ahead of time so you don’t waste time doing that on the day West Coast Trail bookings open.

Have the following information ready to go when you make your West Coast Trail reservation:

  • preferred start date and a few alternates
  • preferred start location and alternates (See my West Coast Trail itinerary post for the pros and cons of each start location)
  • number of hikers in your group, plus their full names and emergency contact info
  • credit card

All you are reserving is a start date and trail permits for the number of people in your group. When you book, you can’t reserve individual campsites or set an itinerary. You have to give an estimate of how many nights you plan to be on the trail (up to 14), but you can change the number of nights when you check-in to start the hike.

What To Do If You Didn’t Get a Reservation?

Don’t lose hope. There are a few things you can do:

  1. Check for cancellations. People do cancel and spots do open up. Checking the Parks Canada website manually is time consuming. I recommend using a service like Campnab or Schnerp to send you alerts when a cancellation comes up. (My guide to cancellation apps has more details.)
  2. Look for people selling spots on the West Coast Trail Facebook group.
  3. Sign up for a guided trip. Professional guides get a set number of spots each year, outside of the reservation system. Mike Blake of MB Guiding is my recommendation for a guide. He knows his stuff!
  4. A final option is to just go to the trailhead and cross your fingers. If someone doesn’t show up for their reservation, you may be able to get a permit. (This option isn’t officially advertised, but I have heard of people getting a permit this way. However, it’s pretty unlikely.)

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

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How to Get to the West Coast Trail

One of the most complicated parts of planning a trip on the West Coast Trail is transportation. The trail starts and ends in several different places, and it’s not easy to get between them.

The trailheads are all in remote parts of Vancouver Island. The roads between them are rough gravel roads with lots of big scary logging trucks.

You can drive yourself to all the trailheads, but it’s definitely easier to book a shuttle bus. On both my WCT hikes, we drove ourselves to Gordon River in Port Renfrew, parked the car, then used the shuttle bus to travel between the north and south ends of the trail.

My advice is to figure out your transportation as far in advance as possible. It gets booked up and actually takes a bit of time to figure out. I’ve got a whole guide to West Coast Trail Transportation so go check that out. It includes info on shuttle bus times and companies, how to do a car shuttle between Gordon River and Pachena Bay, how to charter a van and even where to stay before and after your hike.

Backpacks in the back of a shuttle ready to go to the West Coast Trail.
A van full of backpacks on the West Coast Trail

West Coast Trail Maps, Tide Tables, and App

The best map is the West Coast Trail Map by Parks Canada. You’ll get a waterproof copy when you check-in at the ranger station to start the trail. However, it’s helpful to refer to it when planning your hike.

Almost as important as your trail map is a tide table. The ranger will give you a tiny tide table with your map. However, it only has the day’s high and low tides on it. And it doesn’t account for daylight savings time!

I recommend printing out your own tide table from Fisheries and Oceans Canada. It has the predicted tide height for each hour of the day. AND they are adjusted for daylight savings time. Soooo much easier to use. The most accruate tide table for the WCT is the Tofino tide table.

On the trail, I recommend using the West Coast Trail app. It’s a GPS-enabled app that shows where you are on the trail and what is coming up. It also includes the tide tables.

WCT Weather, Packing, and Food

What is the Weather Like on the West Coast Trail?

The West Coast Trail is on the wild west coast of Vancouver Island. That means it is fully exposed to all the storms that roll in off the Pacific Ocean. It’s a rainforest climate, so expect LOTS of rain. Even on days without rain, it can be quite overcast, or really foggy.

It’s also not that warm, even in the middle of summer. But thankfully, it’s never that cold either.

The WCT is only open in the spring and summer months (May to September). And thankfully those are the warmest and driest months. For the warmest and driest weather, plan your trip for July or August. Here’s a summary of the average temperatures and rainfall for the West Coast Trail area.

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Average temperatures for the West Coast Trail
Average temperatures for the West Coast Trail. Data is for Bamfield and is from climate-data.org.
Average rainfall for the West Coast Trail
Average rainfall for the West Coast Trail. Data is for Bamfield and is from climate-data.org.

What to Pack for the West Coast Trail

You will need to be totally self-sufficient on the trail and carry in everything you will need for your trip – right down to the toilet paper!

The last places to buy supplies are in the towns of Bamfield and Port Renfrew. However, both towns are REALLY small and don’t have much on offer.

There are no stores at the visitor centres or anywhere on the trail. There is a small restaurant called The Crab Shack at Nitinaht Narrows that also sells toilet paper and a few other essentials if you have an emergency. But plan to bring everything you need with you!

To avoid carrying a stupidly heavy pack, choose lightweight hiking gear rather than heavy conventional camping gear. The lighter you can get your pack, the happier you will be. In general, aim for a pack weight that is 1/3 to 1/4 of your body weight or less. The weather on the coast is also often very wet so be sure to pack accordingly.  

For lots more information, check out my West Coast Trail packing list. It’s a complete guide to everything you need to bring including specific gear recommendations from my hike.

Food on the West Coast Trail

You need to bring all your own food on the West Coast Trail. Plan to bring lightweight calorie-dense food. If you need tips, check out my posts about how to choose the best backpacking meals, budget-friendly grocery store backpacking food, and ideas for backpacking breakfasts.

There is also a small restaurant at Nitinaht Narrows called The Crab Shack. The Edgar family of the Ditidaht First Nation runs it. Carl Edgar Jr. has been running the ferry service there for 44 years. For the last 20 years or so his family has also sold crab and fish dinners to hikers.

Recently they have expanded their menu to include things like baked potatoes, grilled cheese, and breakfast wraps. (They stop serving breakfast at 11 am SHARP!) Prices for food range from $5 to $35. They also have pop, beer, and chocolate starting at $2.

A hiker with a plate of food at The Crab Shack
Getting ready to chow down on grilled cheese and loaded baked potato at the Crab Shack

For years there was also a second restaurant on the WCT called Chez Monique’s. It was run by Monique and Peter Knighton on a small First Nations reserve just south of the Carmanah Lighthouse. They served burgers, chips and pop right at tables right on the beach. Sadly both Monique and Peter have passed away and Chez Monique’s is no longer open. While their children have tried to get the restaurant up and running again, as of 2024 it is not open.

West Coast Trail Safety and Wildlife

How to Stay Safe on the West Coast Trail

The West Coast Trail tackles some pretty rugged terrain. Each year Parks Canada evacuates up to 100 people from the trail due to illness or injury. There have even been a few deaths on the West Coast Trail.

The trail is in a remote area where getting help is difficult. There is no cell service on most of the trail. Make sure you are physically and mentally prepared. Take a first aid kit and consider bringing a satellite messenger. I brought my Garmin inReach Mini on my last West Coast Trail hike. Thankfully we didn’t need it, but we did turn it on every day so our family at home could see where we were on the trail. We also used it to get weather reports.

Leave a trip plan at home with a friend or family member. That way someone knows where you are going and when you expect to be back. As well, you’ll need to check-in and check-out from the trail so the rangers know you have finished the trail safely. 

Most injuries on the trail happen when the weather is bad or hikers are tired. (Or both!) Be prepared to turn back or stop and make camp if the weather gets too bad or you are having difficulty with the hike. If you keep pushing forward, you may just make your situation worse by injuring yourself.

Take extra time on ladders, bridges and cable cars. Watch your step on the boardwalks or any wooden structure – they can be REALLY slippery.

Be careful crossing streams. Make sure they aren’t flooding and if possible, cross at low tide. Speaking of tides, always keep your tide table handy and consult it along with your map whenever you choose a beach route. Only take the official marked beach routes – other routes have dangerous cliffs and surge channels.

While rare, tsunamis are a real concern on the west coast. If you feel an earthquake or see the ocean recede suddenly, get to high ground as quickly as possible. All of the campgrounds have marked tsunami escape routes.

Sunset at Walbran Creek
Watching the sunset at Walbran Creek

Wildlife on the West Coast Trail

The West Coast Trail is a remote wilderness area so it’s home to lots of wildlife. You might encounter a black bear, wolf or cougar. I’ve hiked the trail twice and seen lots of tracks and bear scat but I’ve never a predator.

To minimize the risk of a negative encounter, hike in groups, make lots of noise and carry bear spray just in case. At campgrounds, store your food and toiletries in the bear bins and camp well away from your cooking area. If you want more info, I’ve got lots more bear safety tips for hikers and backpackers.

There is also lots of marine life just offshore along the West Coast Trail. Both times I’ve hiked the trail we’ve spotted whales feeding. Look for them anywhere north of Walbran Creek.

There are also lots of curious seals surfacing along the beaches or otters playing in the mouths of rivers. You can also spy on sea lion colonies on rocky islets in a few places.

Bring a pair of binoculars to get a better look. My husband brought a compact GoSky Titan monocular that he found on Amazon. It’s pretty light and not too expensive, but it still has 12×50 magnification. He spent hours watching the sea lions through it.

Hikers swimming at Thrasher Cove on the West Coast Trail
A beautiful afternoon at Thrasher Cove

History and Indigenous Context of the West Coast Trail

Historically the area of the WCT was a travel corridor for First Nations peoples. They had village sites along the coast.

In the late 1800s, European ships frequently wrecked thanks to the fog and rough conditions. This part of the coast became known as the “Graveyard of the Pacific”. In 1906 a ship called the Valencia shipwrecked and over 100 people drowned.

In response, the Canadian government built lighthouses, lifesaving stations and a telegraph route along the coast. The telegraph route was upgraded and renamed the Dominion Life Saving Trail. Over the years, technology made these measures obsolete and the trail fell into disrepair.

But in the 1970s, hikers were beginning to discover the trail and hike it again. It was included in Pacific Rim National Park in 1973. In the 1970s and 80s Parks Canada restored and upgraded the trail. They added many of the bridges, cablecars, ladders, and boardwalks that hikers travel over today. 

The entire West Coast Trail is on the traditional territory of the Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht, and Pacheedaht First Nations. The trail also passes through several First Nations reserves. These areas are private property, so be respectful.

Members of these Nations continue to have a presence on the trail by acting as West Coast Trail Guardians. They perform trail maintenance and help educate hikers about trail safety and wilderness ethics.

West Coast Trail Rules and Further Resources

Parks Canada Rules

Dogs: Parks Canada doesn’t allow dogs on the West Coast Trail unless they are a service animal.

Beachcombing: You aren’t allowed to take home anything natural from the trail. That includes shells, rocks, sand, wood, etc. However, you are encouraged to take home anything man-made, such as fishing floats.

Fires: Fires are allowed on the West Coast Trail as long as they are below the high tide line AND there is no fire ban for that part of Vancouver Island. You are never allowed to have a fire in the forest. You aren’t allowed to bring an axe, but you shouldn’t need one since you can usually find lots of small driftwood to burn.

Age: Hikers must be at least 6 years old to hike the WCT. Parks Canada recommends hikers be over the age of 12. I hiked the West Coast Trail with my friends’ kids who were 9.5 and 12 at the time. Having kids along added some extra challenges, but in general, if your kids are experienced backpackers, they can probably handle it.

Firearms: Not allowed on the West Coast Trail.

Group Size: Maximum group size is 10 people. School groups of up to 18 people are the only exception to this rule. School groups can be on the trail between May 1 and June 14, and September 20 and 26. 

Length of stay: Maximum length of stay is 14 days.

More Resources for the West Coast Trail

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

West Coast Trail FAQ

How long does it take to walk the West Coast Trail?

Most hikers take 7 days. However, itineraries as short as 5 days or as long as 9 days are possible. See my WCT Itinerary guide for more.

How many kilometres is the West Coast Trail?

Officially, the trail is 75 km (47 mi) long. However, over the years it has been re-routed many times is likely longer. GPS tracks from hikers commonly put the distance at 85-90 km.

Where does the West Coast Trail start and end?

The southern trailhead is at Gordon River near the town of Port Renfrew. The middle trailhead is at Nitinaht Narrows near Nitinaht Village. The northern trailhead is at Pachena Beach near the town of Bamfield.

Is the West Coast Trail difficult?

Yes. You will need to be able to walk about 12 km per day while carrying a 30-40 lb backpack. The terrain is very challenging and technical with ladders, scrambling across slippery rocks, mud bogs, and lots of uneven terrain. Injuries from falls are common. Read my full evaluation of West Coast Trail difficulty.

How much does it cost to hike the West Coast Trail?

It costs $325.25 per person to hike the West Coast Trail. This includes trail permit, reservation fee, fees for the two ferry crossings on the trails, and National Park entry fee. It doesn’t include transportation to and from the trail. I’ve got more info in the WCT costs section above.

Do you need to book the West Coast Trail?

Yes. Reservations are mandatory. Up to 70 people can start the trail each day. See the Reservation section above for booking info and tips.

Where can you camp on the West Coast Trail?

You are allowed to camp almost anywhere on the West Coast Trail except between KM 34 and 38. However, there are no flat places to camp in the forest and many beaches do not have good campsites. Most hikers camp at one of the 13 official campgrounds along the trail.

Are there bears on the West Coast Trail?

Yes. The area has a high black bear population, but no grizzly bears. However, most hikers will not see a bear. Travel in a group, make noise as you hike, store food in bear caches, and keep a clean camp to avoid negative bear encounters. Read my bear safety tips for backpackers for more tips.

How heavy should your backpack be for the West Coast Trail?

In general, your pack should be no more than 25%-30% of your body weight. Most hikers will start with a pack that weights 30-40 lbs. Choose lightweight backpacking gear. See my West Coast Trail packing list for specific gear recommendations.

Is there cell service on the West Coast Trail?

No. There is no cell service on the West Coast Trail. It is occasionally possible to pick up a faint signal from Washington State, but don’t rely on it. Bring a satellite communication device like a Garmin inReach Mini in case of emergency.

Can you hike the West Coast Trail alone?

Yes. Solo hikers are permitted. With 70 people starting the trail every day, you will see other hikers frequently. Some solo hikers end up making friends to hike with along the way.

Is the West Coast Trail harder than the Juan de Fuca Trail?

Yes… but only just a little bit. While the Juan de Fuca Trail is shorter, it has more hills than the WCT and is poorly maintained, so it is almost as hard as the WCT. Read my Juan de Fuca Trail guide to get a better idea of what it’s like.

Do you have questions about the West Coast Trail? Ask them in the comments and I’ll help you out.

MORE WEST COAST TRAIL POSTS:

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MORE VANCOUVER ISLAND ADVENTURES:

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25 Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia https://dawnoutdoors.com/spring-backpacking-in-british-columbia/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/spring-backpacking-in-british-columbia/#comments Tue, 06 Feb 2024 19:55:40 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=1015 After a long winter, I’m usually in a rush for summer to start so I can go backpacking. But it can be frustrating since most trails are snow-covered well into June and July. However, if you know where to look, there are lots of places to go on spring backpacking trips in British Columbia. While …

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After a long winter, I’m usually in a rush for summer to start so I can go backpacking. But it can be frustrating since most trails are snow-covered well into June and July. However, if you know where to look, there are lots of places to go on spring backpacking trips in British Columbia.

While this post is aimed at locations where you can go on an overnight hiking trip in spring, most of these trips make great fall backpacking trips in British Columbia too.

In BC, most mountain trails are snow-covered between late October and mid-June. However, there are lots of lower elevation trails that are snow-free between March and November. There are even a few on this list that you can backpack year-round.

This list of 25 spring backpacking trips in British Columbia includes:

  • Destinations near Vancouver, on Vancouver Island, and in BC’s interior
  • Trips ranging in difficulty from beginner to expert
  • Hikes between 2 and 8 days long
  • Trails that are usually snow-free by March, April, or May and stay snow-free until October or November
  • Tips for spring backpacking trips in British Columbia
  • Bonus: Spring backpacking suggestions for Washington State

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Map of Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia

Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia Google Map
Click to open in Google Maps

Tips for Spring Backpacking in British Columbia

Backpacking in the spring has its own challenges. Here are a few things to watch out for:

Weather: In spring, the weather is colder and wetter than in summer. It’s also less predictable. Pack accordingly and be prepared to cancel your trip or switch to a different destination if the forecast looks bad. (Use these picks for the best weather apps for hiking.)

Trail Conditions: Many trails suffer blow-downs, wash-outs, and flooding over the winter. Often, parks staff and volunteers do trail maintenance in late May or June, which means trails can be in rough shape before then. (Here are my tips for how to check trail conditions.)

Mud: Wet and muddy trails are inevitable in spring. Come prepared with waterproof hiking boots and gaiters.

Creek crossings: Streams run high in the spring with a combo of snow-melt and rain. Bridges may be washed out and fords may be dangerous. Be prepared to turn back.

Bears: As they wake up from hibernation and tend to new cubs, bears are more active in spring, especially in valley-bottom and coastal locations where there are lots of things for them to eat at this time of year. Read more about bear safety for backpackers.

Seasonal closures: Some parks and trails are closed in the off-season, or may have temporary closures to due damaged infrastructure. Check park and trail websites before you go.

Trailhead access issues: In spring, logging roads that access trailheads may be muddy or washed out. If you’re heading to a trail that requires a water taxi or floatplane, fog and rough weather may delay or cancel your trip. Shuttle services between trailheads may not start operating until May.

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Spring Backpacking Trips in Southwestern British Columbia

Viewpoint Beach and Halfmoon Beach, Golden Ears Provincial Park

Heads up: Day passes are required at Golden Ears Provincial Park in summer. However, if you have a backcountry permit registration, you don’t need a day pass. Learn more in my guide to BC Parks day passes.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 9.6 to 19.4 km round trip

Best Months: April to November

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 170 to 275 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

This easy hike in Golden Ears Provincial Park follows the banks of Gold Creek. There are trails on both the west and east sides of the creek, connected by a bridge, so loop trips are possible. You can camp at Viewpoint Beach or venture further upstream to Halfmoon Beach.

This is the closest place to Vancouver that you can take a spring backpacking trip in British Columbia and also made my list of the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia. For info on camping fees, see Golden Ears Provincial Park.

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

Lindeman and Greendrop Lakes, Chilliwack Lake Provincial Park

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 3.4 to 11 km round trip

Best Months: April to early November

Difficulty: Easy/moderate

Elevation Gain: 200 to 350 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

It’s a short hike to picturesque Lindeman Lake where you can camp next to the tranquil turquoise waters. If you have more energy, carry on along the rougher trail to Greendrop Lake. Lindeman Lake is often snow-free in April, but Greendrop Lake holds snow into May.

Lindeman Lake is also one of my picks for beginner-friendly backpacking rips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia. For info on camping fees, see S⨱ótsaqel / Chilliwack Lake Provincial Park.

Get My Book…

Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia

A one-stop resource for backpackers in beautiful British Columbia.

  • 40 backpacking trips within a few hours of Vancouver
  • Info about permits, reservations, and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
3D cover of Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia Book

Skagit River Trail, Skagit Valley Provincial Park

Note: Access to this trail was disrupted by the November 2021 storms. The river has changed course at the Sumallo Grove trailhead and the bridge is not accessible at times of high water. In late summer, it’s an easy ford. However, western trailhead on Silver-Skagit Road in Skagit Valley Provincial Park is open between mid-April and November, so you can access it from that direction.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 8 km round trip or 14 km traverse

Best Months: April to November

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 75 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

This laid-back hike follows a historic fur-trade route along the banks of the Skagit River as it flows downstream. You can do an 8 km round trip hike from the Sumallo Grove Trailhead in Manning Provincial Park, camping at Delacy Camp. If you have two cars, you make a 14 km traverse from Sumallo Grove to Silver-Skagit Road.

The Skagit River Trail is one of the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and the E.C. Manning & Skagit Valley Provincial Parks map from Clark Geomatics.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Tikwalus Heritage Trail, Fraser Canyon

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 13 km round trip

Best Months: May to October

Difficulty: Challenging

Elevation Gain: 790 m

Fees and Reservations: None

This historical Indigenous and fur trade route leads steeply up from Highway 1 in the Fraser Canyon to several spectacular lookouts. Camp high on a bluff near several small lakes. The trail takes its name from a former Nlaka’pamux village near the trailhead.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia.

READ NEXT: How to Go Backpacking in BC Without Reservations

Lower Stein Valley, Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux Heritage Provincial Park

Note: A large wildfire burned the lower Stein Valley trail in July and August 2023. As of early 2026, the trail is currently only open up to Earl’s Cabin camp 10.5 km from the trailhead.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 4 to 26 km round trip

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 30 to 350 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

The warm, dry climate in Lytton makes the Lower Stein Valley my favourite choice for spring backpacking trips in British Columbia – Over the years, I’ve been there six times in March, April, and May. The valley is a spiritual place for the local Nlaka’pamux First Nation.

The trail travels next to the Stein River passing Indigenous pictographs and culturally modified trees. Choose from five different campgrounds spaced out along the lower section of the trail. This is one fo the best places for beginner backpacking in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and the Stein to Joffre Trail Map by Trail Ventures BC.

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

Cheakamus Lake, Garibaldi Provincial Park

Heads up: Day passes are required at Cheakamus Lake in summer. However, if you have a backcountry camping reservation, you don’t need a day pass. Learn more in my guide to BC Parks day passes.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 7 to 14 km round trip

Best months: May to early November

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 50 m

Fees and Reservations: Reservations are required. Camping fees charged.

As the lowest elevation trail in Garibaldi Provincial Park, Cheakamus Lake is a good spring backpacking destination. The flat and easy trail leads through old-growth forest to the beautiful glacially-fed lake. Camp at the lake outlet or follow the trail along the shoreline to camp at Singing Creek.

This trail is my number one pick for easy backpacking near Vancouver.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and the Garibaldi Provincial Park Map by Clark Geomatics. For info on camping fees and reservations, see Garibaldi Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

Get My Book…

Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia

A one-stop resource for backpackers in beautiful British Columbia.

  • 40 backpacking trips within a few hours of Vancouver
  • Info about permits, reservations, and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
3D cover of Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia Book

Fairview Bay/Saltery Bay Loop, Sunshine Coast Trail

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 12 km round trip or 18 km loop

Best Months: April to November

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 150 to 570 m

Fees and Reservations: None

Portions of the Sunshine Coast Trail are snow-covered most of the year, but you can tackle this low elevation section starting at the southern terminus in Saltery Bay. Hike along the coast to Fairview Bay hut as an out-and-back trip, or take on the full loop, camping at either Fairview Bay Hut or Rainy Day Lake Hut.

The trip to Fairview Bay is on my list of the best easy bacpacking trips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Confederation Lake and Fiddlehead Landing, Sunshine Coast Trail

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 15 to 30 km round trip

Best Months: April to November

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging

Elevation Gain: 650 m

Fees and Reservations: None

Here’s another low elevation section of the Sunshine Coast Trail (SCT) that is perfect for a spring backpacking trip. The trail starts at Inland Lake, then climbs steeply through thick old-growth forest to a hut on the shores of Confederation Lake. Follow the SCT downhill to Fiddlehead Landing on the shores of Powell Lake and another hut.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia.

Sarah Point to Powell River, Sunshine Coast Trail

Duration: 3-4 Days

Distance: 50 km traverse

Best Months: March to November

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 375 m

Fees and Reservations: None

This northern section of the Sunshine Coast Trail is an ideal spring backpacking destination. Arrange a water taxi or 4WD shuttle to the trailhead at Sarah Point or skip the first few kilometres by taking the shortcut trail to Wednesday Lake from Sarah Point Road. Finish your trip at the Shinglemill Pub in Powell River. Along the way, walk along bluffs speckled with arbutus trees, through old-growth forest, and past small lakes.

More Info: Read my trip report from my March backpacking trip on the northern section of the Sunshine Coast Trail. Part of this section is also featured in my book Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

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Spring Backpacking Trips on Vancouver Island

Narvaez Bay, Saturna Island

The campground at Narvaez Bay on Saturna Island in Gulf Islands National Park.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 3.5 km round trip

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 80 m

Fees and Reservations: Reservations are required. Camping fees charged.

This oceanfront campground is located on the southeastern side of Saturna Island in Gulf Islands National Park Reserve. It’s an easy hike in from the trailhead and the trail is also open to bikes. FYI: There is no potable water here so you’ll have to pack in your own. It’s also on my list of the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. See Gulf Islands National Park Reserve for camping reservations.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: BC Backpacking Reservation Dates You Need to Know

Juan de Fuca Trail, Juan de Fuca Provincial Park

Note: The Juan de Fuca Trail is closed in summer 2025 due to significant storm damage. It is not possible to hike the entire trail, but you can visit and camp at Mystic Beach and East Sombrio Beach. The full trail is expected to re-open in late May, 2026.

Duration: 3 to 5 days

Distance: 47 km traverse

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Challenging

Elevation Gain: 190 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

The rugged Juan de Fuca Trail runs along the coast from near Jordan River to Port Renfrew. It’s a little shorter than the West Coast Trail, its famous neighbour to the north, but it’s just as rugged and has more hills. This trail crosses lots of steep gullies, so it is prone to washouts in the spring, fall, and winter months.

More Info: Read my Juan de Fuca Trail guide for full details. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For camping fees, see Juan de Fuca Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Juan De Fuca Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island

West Coast Trail, Pacific Rim National Park

Note: The West Coast Trail is open from May 1 to September 30 each year. The National Park officially closes the trail from October to the end of April.

Duration: 5-8 days

Distance: 75 km traverse

Best Months: May to September

Difficulty: Challenging

Elevation Gain: 225 m

Fees and Reservations: Reservations are required. Trail fees and National Park entry fees charged.

The West Coast Trail is Canada’s most famous multi-day hike. Since it opens in May, it also makes a great spring backpacking trip. The 75-kilometre-long trail follows the wild shoreline with the help of bridges, ladders, and cable cars. Each night you will camp on a wilderness beach.

More Info: Get details on this hike in my West Coast Trail guide. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For info on reservations, trail fees, and National Park fees, see Pacific Rim National Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
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Keeha Beach, Pacific Rim National Park

A hiker walks on Keeha Beach near Bamfield, BC in Pacific Rim National Park
Keeha Beach

Note: Keeha Beach is open from May 1 to early October each year. The National Park officially closes the trail from early October to the end of April.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 7 km round trip

Best Months: May to early October

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 45 m

Fees and Reservations: Reservations are required. Camping fees and National Park entry fees charged.

This sandy beach is located just north of the West Coast Trail. It’s a short hike to get there, but allow plenty of time as the trail is very rough with lots of slippery roots and tons of mud. (The mud is pretty epic – comparable to the North Coast Trail.) You can also day hike to the nearby Cape Beale Lighthouse.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For trail fees, and reservations, see Pacific Rim National Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Della Falls Trail

A hiker admires the base of Della Falls from the Della Falls Trail
At the base of Della Falls

Duration: 2-5 days

Distance: 32 km round trip

Best Months: Mid-May to September

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 540 m

Fees and Reservations: None

At 440-metres-tall, Della Falls is one of the tallest waterfalls in Canada. To get there, you first have to canoe, motor boat, or water taxi across Great Central Lake. Then hike up through a river valley to the base of the falls. Don’t miss a side trip on the Love Lake trail for incredible views of the falls.

The water taxi starts running on May 15 each year when the falls are in full flow. However, snow can linger in May and early June in the upper valley and on the Love Lake Trail, so go prepared.

More Info: Get all the details in my Della Falls Trail guide and join the Della Falls Facebook group. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Della Falls Trail Hiking Guide

Wild Side Trail, Flores Island

Note: The Wild Side Trail is open from May to October each year. The Ahousaht Nation officially closes the trail from November to April.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 22 km round trip

Best Months: May to October

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 30 m

Fees and Reservations: Trail fees charged.

The Wild Side Trail has one of the best effort to reward ratios of any of Vancouver Island’s coastal trails. It’s one of my favourite spring backpacking trips in British Columbia – I’ve done it twice in May! This trail is also one of my picks for the best beginner backpacking trips in BC.

It’s an easy walk along beaches and through the forest to a gorgeous campsite at Cow Bay. There are also two other campsites along the way. The hike is located in Ahousaht First Nation territory on Flores Island near Tofino, so you’ll need to arrange a water taxi.

More Info: Get details on this hike in my Wild Side Trail guide. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For info on trail fees and camping fees, see the Wild Side Trail website.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide

Hesquiat Peninsula Trail, West Coast Vancouver Island

Duration: 4 to 5 days

Distance: 50 km traverse

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Elevation Gain: 50 m

Fees and Reservations: None

If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure, take a water taxi or floatplane to the remote Hesquiat Peninsula on the west coast of Vancouver Island. This informal trail follows the rugged coastline as it bucks and dips across rocky headlands, through surge channels, and along beaches. There are no facilities or formal campsites.

More info: See Hiking the West Coast of Vancouver Island by Tim Leadem, and Hesquiat Peninsula Provincial Park.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
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  • Points of cultural and natural history
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Nootka Trail, West Coast Vancouver Island

Duration: 3 to 5 days

Distance: 36 km traverse

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 50 m

Fees and Reservations: Trail fees and a landing fee charged. All camping is first-come, first-served.

The Nootka Trail is my favourite coastal hike in BC. It’s located on Nootka Island off the west coast of Vancouver Island, so you need to take a water taxi or floatplane to get there. What makes this trail special is that it is almost entirely on the beach. There are no formal facilities or campsites.

More info: See my Nootka Trail trip report. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For info on fees, see Yuqot.ca, the Mowachaht-Muchalaht First Nation website.

READ NEXT: Sunshine on the Edge of the World: Nootka Trail Trip Report

Tatchu Peninsula Trail, West Coast Vancouver Island

A tent on the beach at sunset on the Tatchu Trail, a wilderness backpacking trip on the Tatchu Peninsula on the west side of Vancouver Island, BC
Sunset at Sandpiper Creek on the the Tatchu Trail

Duration: 3 to 4 days

Distance: 20-40 km (traverse or out-and-back)

Best Months: May to October

Difficulty: Moderate/Very Challenging

Elevation Gain: 30 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

The Tatchu Peninsula is a wilderness hike on the west coast of Vancouver Island. The hike traces a route down the west side of the peninsula, linking numerous beaches with short overland trails. There are no formal facilities or campsites. You can do the easier (and more scenic) northern section as an out-and-back or complete a very challenging traverse.

More info: See my Tatchu Trail guide, Rugged Point Provincial Park. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Raft Cove, Raft Cove Provincial Park

Logs on the beach at Raft Cove Provincial Park on Northern Vancouver Island
Raft Cove

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 4 km round trip

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 70 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged between May and September. (Otherwise, it is free.) All campsites are first-come, first-served.

Raft Cove is a remote beach on the north end of Vancouver Island, reached by a maze of logging roads from the tiny town of Holberg. It’s a short walk into the beach, but the rough and muddy trail makes it seem longer. Camp on the sandy beach and watch surfers work the waves just offshore.

This is one of my picks for the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. See Raft Cove Provincial Park for info and camping fees.

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San Josef Bay, Cape Scott Provincial Park

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 5 km return

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 45 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged between May and September. (Otherwise, it is free.) All campsites are first-come, first-served.

This is the easiest trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park, but it still has spectacular scenery. The trail winds through the coastal forest and ends at a beautiful beach. At low tide, you can explore incredible sea stacks. There are two beaches to camp on separated by a headland that is impassable at high tide.

The flat trail makes it one of the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More info: For more info, see my Cape Scott guide, the North Coast Trail Map by John Baldwin, and the North Coast Trail Waterproof Map by Wild Coast. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For camping fees, see Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
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  • Points of cultural and natural history
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Cape Scott Trail, Cape Scott Provincial Park

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 41.5 km round trip

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 100 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged costs between May and September. (Otherwise, it is free.) All campsites are first-come, first-served.

While the north end of Vancouver Island gets a lot of rain, the Cape Scott Trail can be a great spring backpacking destination if you get a window of good weather. It’s a long hike through bog and coastal forest on old settler trails to the campsite at Nel’s Bight. From there, you can day hike to Cape Scott, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island.

More Info: Get details on this hike in my Cape Scott Trail guide, the North Coast Trail Map by John Baldwin, and the North Coast Trail Waterproof Map by Wild Coast. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For camping fees, see Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island

North Coast Trail, Cape Scott Provincial Park

Duration: 5 to 6 days

Distance: 43 km traverse

Best Months: Mid-April to early October

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Elevation Gain: 245 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged between May and September. (Otherwise, it is free.) All campsites are first-come, first-served.

The tough North Coast Trail traverses the northern end of Vancouver Island. It starts with a water taxi drop-off in Shushartie Bay and ends when it intersects the Cape Scott Trail at Nissen Bight. In between, there is lots of muddy and rough trail through coastal bog and old-growth forest, and a few gorgeous beaches.

More Info: Get details on this hike in my North Coast Trail guide. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For camping fees, see Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island

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Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia’s Interior

Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 22 to 40 km

Best Months: Mid-March to October

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging

Elevation Gain: 200 to 1100 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

This large park between Kelowna and Naramata has several different spring backpacking options. You can hike to Divide Lake and Baker Lake near the summit of Okanagan Mountain. You can also follow the Wild Horse Canyon Trail to campsites on the shores of Okanagan Lake. A connecter trail links the two, so you can make a big loop. Spring and fall are the best time to visit this park, as it is too hot in the summer.

More info: See Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: How to Go Backpacking in BC Without Reservations

Okanagan High Rim Trail

Duration: 3 to 4 days

Distance: 58 km traverse

Best Months: May to October

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging

Elevation Gain: 800 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

This trail follows an elevated route above the Okanagan Valley between Vernon and Kelowna. In most years, it is snow-free by early to mid May. This trail is only a few years old and crisscrosses lots of forestry roads in between great viewpoints and small lakes.

More Info: Get the details from the Okanagan High Rim Trail Association.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Deer Point Trail, Gladstone Provincial Park

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 12 to 22 km round trip

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 150 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

The low elevation Deer Point Trail along Christina Lake in Gladstone Provincial Park near Grand Forks make a good spring backpacking destination. You can camp at Trapper Creek partway along the trail or at Troy Creek at the north end of the lake. Both campsites are open to boaters as well.

More Info: Get info on the trail and camping fees from Gladstone Provincial Park.

Flatiron Trails, Wells Gray Provincial Park

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 10 to 46 km round trip or 25 km traverse

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 250 to 500 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

Note: In 2023, a few key bridges washed out and with high water, it is currently not possible to cross the creeks and reach any of the campsites.

Even though it is near the entrance to the park, Flatiron area of Wells Gray Provincial Park is a bit under-the-radar. A network of trails follows creeks to the banks of the Clearwater River and there are three backcountry campgrounds. You can access the area from three different trailheads, making loop trips or a traverse possible.

More Info: Get info on the trails from Exploring Wells Gray Park by Roland Neave. For camping fees see Wells Gray Provincial Park.

Discover BC’s best backpacking trips

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Book covers for Bakpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Spring Backpacking Trips in Washington

Since it is a short trip across the border, it’s worth mentioning a few spring backpacking locations in Washington State.

Olympic Coast: The wilderness coast in Olympic National Park is accessible year-round. With several access points, lots of different trips are possible. As a bonus, it’s easier to get permits in the spring. For trip ideas, see my guides to Shi Shi Beach, Ozette Loop, and Toleak Point.

Enchanted Valley: Follow the East Fork Quinault River Trail into the Enchanted Valley in the rainforest of Olympic National Park.

East Bank Trail, Ross Lake: This trail in North Cascades National Park follows the shoreline of Ross Lake. See my East Bank Trail trip report.

Chelan Lakeshore Trail: This 17-mile-long trail in Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest begins and ends with a ferry on Lake Chelan. The trail finishes at the boat-access-only village of Stehekin in North Cascades National Park.

So that gives you 25 different spring backpacking trips in British Columbia to choose from!  Which one would you choose?  I’ve hiked most of these trails (some of them several times) so feel free to ask me more about them in the comments.

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Tatchu Trail Guide: Vancouver Island Coastal Backpacking https://dawnoutdoors.com/tatchu-trail/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/tatchu-trail/#comments Thu, 15 Dec 2022 18:52:48 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=16593 If you’re looking for a challenging and remote coastal hike on Vancouver Island, check out the Tatchu Trail. It’s a rough route along the Tatchu Peninsula where you are unlikely to encounter other hikers. Most of the route is on the coast, with a few rough inland sections. The highlights are sandy beaches, fascinating geology …

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If you’re looking for a challenging and remote coastal hike on Vancouver Island, check out the Tatchu Trail. It’s a rough route along the Tatchu Peninsula where you are unlikely to encounter other hikers.

Most of the route is on the coast, with a few rough inland sections. The highlights are sandy beaches, fascinating geology and plentiful wildlife, including endangered sea otters. I thought it had some of the most beautiful scenery of any of the coastal trails in BC that I’ve hiked (and I hiked a ton of them to research my book Backpacking on Vancouver Island).

Completing the entire trail from Rugged Point to Port Eliza (32 km) is tough and best left for experienced hikers who can contend with scrambles, heights, and bush-whacking. Most hikers will prefer an out-and-back route from Rugged Point (28 km).

Keep in mind that this is a remote and challenging hike. It shouldn’t be your first coastal backpacking trip. Tackle tough trails like the West Coast Trail, North Coast Trail, or Nookta Trail first.

I hiked the Tatchu Trail in June 2022 so I’ve put together a full guide for you. It includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Tatchu Trail Quick Facts

Click the map to zoom in.

Location: The west coast of Vancouver Island north of Gold River and Nootka Island. The Google Map (above) gives you a good idea about where it is.

Distance: 20-40 km

Difficulty: Moderate to Very Challenging

Time: 4-5 days

Cost: No trail fees, but water taxis or float planes will cost you a few hundred dollars per person for a group of four. (Prices depend on how many people are in your group and where you leave from. See Getting There, below.)

Best time to go: Late June to early September

Indigenous context: The Tatchu Trail is in the traditional territory of the Ehattesaht and Ka:’yu:’k’t’h’/Che:k:tles7et’h Nations, two of the 14 nations in the Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal Council. The word Tatchu comes from a Nuu-chah-nulth word meaning “to chew”, likely after a beach near Tatchu Point that was used as a feasting and fishing location by the Ehattesaht Nation.

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Tatchu Trail Itineraries

There are several different ways to complete the Tatchu Trail. The itinerary you choose depends on a few things: 1) budget – water taxis are cheaper than float planes; 2) skill level and comfort with heights – the middle section of the trail includes some very challenging terrain with cliffs; 3) the amount of time you want to spend both on the trail and travelling to the trail.

While there are several different float plane and taxi companies, they each will only pick up and drop off at certain locations due to their vessel types and ocean conditions. See the Getting There section below for more info.

In general, the northern part of the trail is the most scenic and the least challenging. The middle includes the most challenging terrain. The southern end is an overgrown road walk with a challenging scramble. I’ve outlined the itinerary options below.

Rugged Point to Tatchu Creek (Return)

Distance: 28 km

Time: 2-5 days

Difficulty: Moderate

This out-and-back hike is the best option for most parties as it includes the best scenery and skips the challenging scramble and road walk. I recommend doing a day hike from Tatchu Creek to Sandstone Point (5 km each way) to explore the rock formations and tidepools at Sandstone Point.

There are two transportation options for this itinerary: Water taxi from Fair Harbour or floatplane from Gold River.

At tent at Tatchu Creek Camp
Tent at Tatchu Creek Camp

Rugged Point to Yellow Bluff Bay (Return)

Distance: 40 km

Time: 3-6 days

Difficulty: Very Challenging

This is the option that I used. It lets you complete most of the trail (including the challenging scramble and cliff), but skip the road-walk section. You can start from either Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff Bay.

It also has the cheapest and easiest transportation logistics as you just need to get a water taxi from Tahsis or Fair Harbour. We chose Tahsis since it was a shorter drive from Nanaimo than Fair Harbour.

Rugged Point to Yellow Bluff Bay (One-way)

Distance: 20 km

Time: 2-3 days

Difficulty: Very Challenging

You can complete this one-way hike in either direction. While this itinerary is shorter than completing the same trip as an out-and-back, the transportation logistics are much more complicated.

To do this as a one-way hike, you will need a water taxi from Tahsis to Yellow Bluff. On the other end, you can get a float plane from Rugged Point to Gold River or a water taxi from Rugged Point to Fair Harbour.

Then you will need to arrange a car shuttle between either Fair Harbour and Tahsis (6 hours drive one-way) or Gold River and Tahsis (1.5 hours one-way).

Rugged Point to Port Eliza (One-Way)

Distance: 32 km

Time: 3-5 days

Difficulty: Very challenging

This option is for completionists who will only be content after hiking the entire Tatchu Peninsula. The southern 12 km of the hike is on an overgrown road with a bad wash-out, so I opted to skip this section after talking to people who had hiked it.

Transportation for this option is easiest if you take a float plane from Gold River to Port Eliza, then have the float plane pick you up at Rugged Point. That way you don’t have to do a car shuttle.

If you want to save some money, you can take a water taxi from Zeballos to Port Eliza. At the other end, book a water taxi from Rugged Point to Fair Harbour. Then arrange a car shuttle between the Zeballos and Fair Harbour (1 hour drive one-way).

You can also cut down on costs and logistics by doing an out-and-back trip (64 km) from either Rugged Point or Port Eliza.

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How to get to the Tatchu Trail

As mentioned in the itinerary section, you can get to the Tatchu Trail from Gold River, Tahsis, Zeballos and Fair Harbour. Details on how to get to each place and water taxi/float plane providers are below.

Many of these options involve forest road driving. A GPS with a backroad map layer (I recommend Gaia GPS) or the Vancouver Island BC Backroad Mapbook is helpful.

View of the Westview Marina in Tahsis from the water
Leaving the marina in Tahsis

From Gold River to Rugged Point or Port Eliza

Head north on Highway 19 from Nanaimo to Campbell River. Take Highway 28 west through Strathcona Park past the town of Gold River to its end at the Muchalaht Marina. It’s a 3-hour drive from Nanaimo.

Air Nootka offers charter flights to Rugged Point and Port Eliza on their Cessna (max 3 passengers) or Beaver (max 6 passengers). Prices are per flight. Check their website for the latest prices. You can save some money by taking their scheduled flights to Port Eliza which run a few days a week.

At Port Eliza, they land at an old logging dock. At Rugged Point, they drop-off in shallow water or on the rocks (tidally dependent) so plan to get wet on landing. They can’t land anywhere else along the trail as the waters are too rough.

Plan to stay overnight in Gold River before your flight. The Gold River Chalet gets good reviews. You can also camp at the first-come, first-served Gold River Municipal Campground just west of town.

From Tahsis to Yellow Bluff

Follow the driving directions above to the village of Gold River, then turn right onto Gold River Road. Continue for 3 km, then turn left onto a bridge.

After the bridge, follow the sign for Tahsis, going left onto Head Bay Road. Stay on this gravel road for another 62 km into Tahsis. The road is bumpy but fine for 2WD vehicles.

In Tahsis, cross the bridge over the river, then follow South Maquinna Drive to Westview Marina, where there is pay parking. It is a 4.5-hour drive from Nanaimo.

Shorebird Expeditions water taxis leave from the marina for pickups and drop-offs at Yellow Bluff Bay west. They don’t drop-off at Port Eliza and other locations along the trail are too far away from their base in Tahsis.

Their water taxi seats up to 10 and is a landing craft, which means it can pull right up to the beach – you won’t get wet when you land. Contact them for pricing, which is per trip.

Water taxis go out early in the morning to take advantage of calmer water. Plan to stay overnight in Tahsis before your trip.

The Westview Marina (where the water taxi leaves from) has hotel rooms and vacation home rentals. If you want to camp, stay at the Leiner River Rec Site between Gold River and Tahsis.

Water taxi leaving Yellow Bluff Bay on the Tatchu Trail
Water taxi leaving Yellow Bluff Bay

From Zeballos to Port Eliza

Go north from Nanaimo past Campbell River. A few minutes north of Woss, just after a bridge over Steel Creek, turn left onto Zeballos Forest Service Road. Watch for signs for Fair Harbour and Zeballos.

The next 42 km are on 2WD-accessible gravel roads. Follow signs for Zeballos at all major junctions. It is a 4-hour drive from Nanaimo.

Zeballos Expeditions offers water taxi service from the Zeballos marina to the old dock at Port Eliza. They don’t have a landing craft so they won’t drop off at Yellow Bluff and other locations along the trail are too far away for them to go. Their boat seats up to 12 passengers. Contact them for pricing, which is per trip.

Water taxis go out early in the morning to take advantage of calmer water. Plan to stay in Zeballos before your trip. The main hotel is the Cedars Inn, which is run by the same people as the water taxi. You can also camp at Cevallos Campsite in town.

From Fair Harbour to Rugged Point

Use the directions above to get to Zeballos. Continue past the town on Zeballos Main, which becomes Fair Harbour Main. Follow signs for Fair Harbour for another 34 km. It’s a 5-hour drive from Nanaimo.

Fair Harbour is a private resort with cabins, a campground, and a marina. Plan to stay there before your trip.

Both Voyageur Water Taxi and Siiqaa Water Taxi operate out of the nearby boat-in Indigenous community of Kyuquot. They ferry passengers between Fair Harbour and Rugged Point. Contact them for pricing, which is per trip.

At Rugged Point they drop-off on the rocks or in shallow water (depending on the tide) so be prepared to get wet.

READ NEXT: Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking

Key Distances on the Tatchu Trail

KMLocation
0Rugged Point Camp
2.5Gross Point
3Sandpiper Creek Camp
4Kapoose Creek
5Brecciated Point
6.5Mushroom Point
8Porritt Creek Camp
10Surge channel
11Unnamed Creek
14Tatchu Creek Camp
16.5Sandstone Point Scramble Route South End
16.7Sandstone Point Scramble Route North End
19Cliff with rope
20Road Junction Camp and route to Yellow Bluff Bay West Camp
21Logging road spur junction
23.5Road washout and Yellow Bluff Bay East Camp
32Port Eliza dock

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Tatchu Trail Description

As I said in the Tatchu Trail Itineraries section (above) there are several ways to hike the trail starting at Rugged Point, Yellow Bluff, and Port Eliza. As well, you can do the trail as a point-to-point or as an out-and-back.

The most scenic part of the trail is at the northern end. It’s the easiest too. For that reason, I’ve chosen to begin this description in the north at Rugged Point.

Rugged Point Camp

Your water taxi from Fair Harbour or float plane from Gold River will drop you off at Rugged Point Marine Provincial Park.

Located, right at the trailhead, this is the only designated campground on the Tatchu Peninsula and the only one with facilities. It has a beautiful sandy beach and can be busy with kayakers and pleasure boaters.

The sandy beach at Rugged Point Marine Provincial Park
The sandy beach at Rugged Point Marine Provincial Park

It has an open-sided cooking shelter with a picnic table. There are three wooden tent platforms and one clearing beside the cooking shelter. In an emergency, there are some marginal tent sites on the sand above the high-tide line.

There is a metal food locker behind the cooking shelter. Follow the trail for a few minutes to a composting toilet.

There is no water at this campground. Plan to bring your own on the water taxi or float plane. The closest reliable water source is at Sandpiper Creek 3 km away. You may be able to find seasonal streams on the beach between Rugged Point and Gross Point, but they will likely be dry in summer.

Cooking shelter at Rugged Point Marine Provincial Park
Cooking shelter at Rugged Point Marine Provincial Park

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
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Rugged Point to Sandpiper Creek

Distance: 3 km

Time: 1 hour

Difficulty: Moderate

To start your hike, look for the trail just to the left of the cooking shelter. This is the only maintained path on the entire Tatchu Trail. In the first few minutes, it passes the side trail to the outhouse.

Follow the trail through an old-growth forest with several large Douglas fir trees. There are boardwalks across boggy sections.

Trail through ferns and old growth forest near Rugged Point
Trail through the old growth forest near Rugged Point

Emerge back onto the beach about 0.4 km from Rugged Point. This is the first of several gorgeous white sand beaches in small coves. 

From here, your next move is determined by the tide. If it is below 2 m (6.6 ft) go left on the beach around the first rocky headland. If the tide is up, go left a few minutes down the beach to a trail entrance.

This trail, like other overland trails on the Tatchu Peninsula, may be marked with a fishing buoy hanging in a tree. However, unlike other more popular coastal trails like the Juan de Fuca Trail, West Coast Trail, and North Coast Trail which feature well-marked overland trails, on the Tatchu Trail the buoys may be missing or hard to spot.

The two routes come together in a tiny, steep-sided cove. At the northeast corner of the cove, follow a rugged trail uphill with the help of a fixed rope and a wooden ladder. At the top, use another set of ropes to descend to a sandy cove.

Stay on the beach and walk left around the next headland at tides below 2 m (6.6 ft). At higher tides, use the trail in the northeast corner of the cove. It heads back from the beach and around a large outcropping.

Arrive on a beautiful sandy beach that stretches for over 1 km southeast to Gross Point. In the center of the beach, look for a trickle of a stream. However, it is not reliable and runs dry by early summer.

Hikers walking on the beach near Gross Point
Hikers walking on the beach near Gross Point

Continue along the beach as it curves behind the rocks of Gross Point and dips into a smaller cove. From there, a short, rough trail leads through the salal over the headland. Find it on the far side of the cove just before the cliffs begin. 

On the other side of the headland, the trail comes out of the forest next to a large tree atop a rock. You have arrived at Sandpiper Creek. At lower tides, you can hop across the creek, but at higher tides, you’ll need to remove your boots and wade.

Sandpiper Creek Camp

This is a beautiful campsite set at the back of the long white sand beach on the south side of Sandpiper Creek. It is the first reliable water source if you are hiking from Rugged Point. However, it is close to the development at Kapoose Point, a small portion of which is visible from camp.

There are lots of flat campsites amongst the driftwood at the back of the beach. You can also camp a few minutes away near Gross Point.

Collect drinking water from Sandpiper Creek. At high tide, follow a rough trail upstream on the south bank to avoid saltwater contamination.

There is no toilet here. Dig a cat hole in the forest in the centre of the beach, avoiding Sandpiper Creek to the north and Kapoose Creek to the south.

There is also no food cache. Bring a rope to hang your food in a tree. The best hanging options are on the north side of the creek.

Sunset at Sandpiper Creek Camp on the Tatchu Trail
Sandpiper Creek Camp at sunset

READ NEXT: Bear Safety for Backpackers

Sandpiper Creek to Porritt Creek

Distance: 5 km

Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging

From Sandpiper Creek, walk south along the fine-sand beach for nearly 1 km to Kapoose Creek. At low tide, Kapoose Creek is another good water source but it can get contaminated with salt water.

Two hikers walk across a broad sandy beach near Sandpiper Creek on the Tatchu Trail
Hiking across the beautiful sand beach south of Sandpiper Creek

At low tide, wade across the creek. However, it is worth detouring to the edge of the forest to cross on a sturdy floating bridge, part of the Kapoose Creek development.

The floating bridge across Kapoose Creek
The floating bridge across Kapoose Creek

There is lots of development happening on private property near Kapoose Creek. From talking to people who live and work there, it seems to be mostly an off-grid housing development and a medicinal mushroom research facility. The construction takes away from the wilderness feel, but thankfully, you will pass through the area quickly. 

Past the bridge, follow the grassy shoreline behind the rocks and back towards the ocean. Look for a short trail through the brush to cross a headland. Walk across a brief stretch of sandy beach, then clamber around a rocky point.

There is a rock jetty in the small cove here. It is the main supply point for the Kapoose Creek development. Cross the jetty and follow the beach as it transitions to a volcanic rock outcropping at Kapoose Point. Look for a triangular sea stack just offshore.

Hiking across rocks at Kapoose Point
Hiking across rocks at Kapoose Point

Descend off the rocks and walk across a sandy beach for a few minutes. To your left, you might be able to see clearings in the forest that lead to roads and construction at the Kapoose Creek development.

There is actually a huge abandoned logging road system on the peninsula. One branch of it parallels the coast from Kapoose Point to Tatchu Creek. On my trip, we met a group who had hiked some of the roads to avoid walking along slippery coastal cliffs in the rain.

They reported that the roads were very overgrown with berry bushes and they spotted a lot of bears. The roads aren’t marked on any maps, but you can see them easily with a satellite photo overlay on a GPS app like Gaia GPS.

I haven’t walked the roads, but they sound less pleasant than the coast due to lots of vegetation and lack of views. However, if you don’t want to walk on the coast through the easy scramble sections around Brecciated Point and Mushroom Point, you could try the road option.

Continue hiking along the coast to Brecciated Point, which is made up of more interesting volcanic rocks broken up by small pockets of sandy beach.

Breccia is a type of rock made of up pieces of other rocks cemented together. This is volcanic breccia composed of blocks of lava that have solidified, broken apart, been reincorporated into the liquid magma, then solidified again. 

Brecciated Point on the Tatchu Trail
Hiking towards Brecciated Point

Walk across a few fine gravel beaches to arrive at Mushroom Point, which kind of looks like a mushroom from the air. Look for a vague trail through the bushes to a grassy area with wildflowers behind the point.

Head south along the tops of the red and black jagged volcanic rocks. This section can be a bit scrambly and is sometimes high above the ocean. Take your time to find the path of least resistance and you will never be in any danger.

Two hikers scrambling across volcanic rocks at Mushroom Point
Scrambling across volcanic rocks at Mushroom Point

On the other side of the point, follow the trail into a small gravelly cove, then traverse another rocky shelf. Keep an eye out for a rough trail through thick salal to get around a rocky headland.

The trail spits you out on a steep gravel beach in a bay. A brief lessening of slope angle a few minutes along provides a good camping area. Porritt Creek empties into the other side of the bay.

Porritt Creek Camp

Many groups choose to camp at Porritt Creek thanks to the reliable water source. You may have to head slightly upstream to collect water at high tide.

A pool in the creek at the site of a former road bridge is a good place to swim. Look for a brief band of alder and a set of weathered logs in the streambed to find it.

The camping area is on the gravel terrace at the northwest corner of the bay. It has room for a few tents. There is no food storage here so you will need to bring a rope to create a bear hang.

There is no toilet so use Leave No Trace best practices and dig a cat hole. Go into the forest on the west side of the bay or use the beach below the high-tide line.

Porritt Creek
The swimming hole at Porritt Creek

READ NEXT: How to Leave No Trace (And Why it’s Important!)

Porritt Creek to Tatchu Creek

Distance: 6 km

Time: 2-3 hours

Difficulty: Moderate

Follow the steep gravel bank of Porritt Creek upstream for a few minutes to wade across. You may need to wait for tides below 3 m (9.8 ft) to avoid getting too wet.

Head south from the creek to round a rocky outcropping. Step carefully across the slippery seaweed-covered rocks. At tides above 2.5 m (8.2 ft), this area may be impassable. Once around the rocks, hike along a series of gravel beaches.

Scrambling around a tidal obstacle south of Porritt Creek
Scrambling around a tidal obstacle south of Porritt Creek

Around 10 km (6.2 mi) from Rugged Point arrive at a surge channel. At tides below 2.5 m (8.2 ft), hike through the surge channel, picking your way across the rocks. At higher tides, use a rough bear trail over the headland. 

There are more gravel beaches past the surge channel and a section of sandstone shelf that is easy to walk on at low tide.

Approximately 11 km (6.8 mi) from the northern trailhead, arrive at an unnamed creek. Head inland along the creek for a few minutes. Wade across at a wide and shallow spot.

Fording a creek on the Tatchu Peninsula
Fording the Unnamed Creek

On the other side, scramble up the steep and undercut bank to an opening in the trees. From there, hike a rough trail for a few meters. It follows the top of the bank and emerges on the beach.

Continue hiking south from the creek to Gregoire Point. There is strenuous walking from here to Tatchu Creek, as the gravel here sinks with every step.

Arrive at Tatchu Creek and the campsite on top of the flat gravel spit about 14 km from Rugged Point.

Tatchu Creek Camp

This campsite has one of the best views on the Tatchu Peninsula: there are lots of offshore rocks and the sun sets over the Brooks Peninsula to the northwest. However, since it is set out on the spit, it can get windy.

There is room for several tents amongst huge stumps at the end of the gravel spit. There is also a forest clearing that will fit one tent.

Collect water from Tatchu Creek. Be sure to go upstream at high-tide to avoid saltwater contamination.

There is no food storage here. Bring a rope to hang it in a tree. The large alders alongside the creek are your best bet for a good hang.

There is also no toilet here. Dig a cat hole in the forest behind the beach, being careful to stay away from the creek. You can also go on the beach well below the high-tide line.

Sunset over the Brooks Peninsula from Tatchu Creek Camp
Sunset over the Brooks Peninsula from Tatchu Creek Camp

Tatchu Creek to Sandstone Point

Distance: 2.5 km

Time: 30-45 minutes

Difficulty: Moderate

Cross Tatchu Creek where the gravel spit meets the forest. On the other side, follow vague paths through the hip-high grass back to the beach.

Watch your step navigating around the slippery rocks of Jurassic Point. It is impassible at tides above 2.8 m (9.2 ft) and may require a bit of scrambling. There are fossils and petrified wood in the sandstone rocks here. They are from the Jurassic period, between 145 and 160 million years ago.

On the south side of the point there is a sea stack topped with windblown trees. We actually camped in the driftwood here on one night as the only other group we met was camping at nearby Tatchu Creek and there wasn’t room for us.

Camping next to a sea stack
Camping at the sea stack

Continue down the gravel beach for a few minutes. In the middle of the beach, there is an opening in the forest that leads to a small waterfall, a good water source.

There is another small stream on the south end of the beach, but it is less reliable. If you want to camp, there are a few small campsites at the southeast end of the bay amongst the driftwood. However, it is so close to Tatchu Creek camp that most parties stay there instead.

At the end of the beach, head around the corner into a small cove. If you arrive at low tide, take time to explore the tide pools.

The rocks of Sandstone Point rise ahead of you. If you are uncomfortable with scrambling or do not like heights, this is your turn-around point.

Backpackers who have camped at Tatchu Creek and are day hiking to Sandstone Point can explore a bit further to get a taste of the terrain without a fully loaded pack.

Sandstone Point to Yellow Bluff Bay

Distance: 3.5 km

Time: 2-3 hours

Difficulty: Very Challenging

If you choose to carry on, clamber up onto the scoured sandstone rocks, following the path of least resistance to the crest. Watch for unique scoured pockets in the rock as well as embedded fossils. Scramble across the rocks, keeping close to the edge of the trees.

Eventually, a faint path appears behind the rocks at the edge of the forest. Follow it as it crosses a slippery section above a waterfall that cascades down towards the ocean. If you are day hiking, this is a good place to turn around.

Sandstone Point on the Tatchu Trail
Scrambling across the rocks at Sandstone Point

The trail turns inland and runs through thick salal directly along the cliff edge. Use extreme caution here as the cliffs are sheer and the trail is precipitously close to it.

In places, the cliff edge is crumbling beneath the footbed. I’ve heard stories of it disintegrating underneath hikers’ boots, leaving them clinging to the salal. Fortunately, there haven’t been any accidents here yet.

The rough and overgrown trail passes above a dangerous surge channel that can be crossed by experienced parties with ropes and climbing skills at tides below 2.5 m (8.2 ft). Crossing the surge channel involves negotiating a drop of about 3 m (9.8 ft).

While the cliff-top trail is dangerous, I felt that it was far safer than crossing the surge channel. 

Trail through the salal at Sandstone Point.
It’s hard to see, but the trail is straight ahead at the top of the cliff in the salal. The surge channel is below on the right.

Past the surge channel, the trail dips slightly. Openings in the brush may tempt you to descend the steep slope to the rock shelf below.

This route leads you onto the sandstone shelf and then down around a rocky point underneath a tube-shaped overhang. It is passable at tides below 2 m (6.6 ft).

But a safer option is to stay on the overgrown trail as it ascends to a high point away from the cliff, then drops through thick salal to the beach.

The next section features a wonderful flat sandstone shelf that is exposed at low tide, making for fast travel. You will pass through the Tatchu Indian Reserve in this area, so please be respectful and do not camp here.

Hiking on the sandstone shelf at low tide on the Tatchu Peninsula
Easy hiking on the sandstone shelf at low tide

About 19 km (11.8 ft) from Rugged Point, arrive at a rocky outcrop with a small islet just offshore. Watch for a faint trail heading into the trees just before the cliff. Just inside the forest, the trail forks. Take the wider right fork to arrive at the top of the cliff.

(The left fork is a very overgrown bear trail that peters out atop the cliffs. Perhaps with some serious trail maintenance, this route will become usable, but as of summer 2022, it is impassable. I tried my best to make it through, even going down on my hands and knees, but without a machete, I became tangled in the thick salal, which stripped off my hat, sunglasses, and ponytail holder.)

From the top of the cliff, scramble down to a wide series of ledges that trend northeast above the water. At tides below 1 m (3.3 ft), you may be able to scramble down seaweed-covered ledges to reach the beach.

Scrambling up a cliff on the Tatchu Trail
Ascending the cliff with fixed rope at a 1.6 m tide. The handline is at the low tide exit point. The high tide exit point is on the right side of the photo. You have to traverse across a narrow ledge to get there.

At tides between 1 and 2 m (3.3 to 6.6 ft), you must traverse across the face to a narrow ledge using careful toe holds. From there, lower yourself down a 1.8 m (6 ft) drop to the beach. In summer 2022, a weathered fixed rope was in place above the traverse to act as a handline.

A second handline above the 1.8 m drop may also be helpful – if you go, bring one to tie off to one of the trees at the top of the cliff. At tides above 2 m (6.6 ft), the beach is underwater and you will not be able to descend from the cliff.

Use extreme caution in this section. If possible, have your strongest climber go first to scout the route, coach others, and act as a spotter. Climb with your packs off and hand them down the cliff or lower them on a rope. 

Just past the cliff, peer inside two small sea caves, clogged with driftwood. Navigate a section of beach covered in basketball-sized rocks, then round the point into a bay with a gravel beach. The rocks of Yellow Bluff are directly opposite you to the east.

Two streams flow into the bay at the northwest corner at the eastern boundary of the Indian Reserve. Collect water here if you plan to camp nearby. The best camping is in the centre of the bay. The trail to the logging road and beyond to Port Eliza also leaves from the middle of the bay. 

Hiking a gravel beach on the Tatchu Peninsula
Hiking a gravel beach near Road Junction camp

If you used the water taxi from Tahsis, continue to the far east side of the bay and into a small gravel-dammed lagoon. Early in the season or after heavy rain the lagoon may be full of water, perhaps up to your thighs.

Wade through the lagoon and pick up trail through the salal to Yellow Bluff Beach. There is a good campsite a few meters north along this gorgeous sandy beach. 

Road Junction Camp and Yellow Bluff Bay West Camp

There are two campsites a few minutes apart here. One where the trail leaves the beach to start the road walk and one across a small headland on the west shore of Yellow Bluff Bay.

Road Junction Camp is on a steep gravel beach. It makes a logical campsite before or after the road walk to Port Eliza. There is space for a few tents amongst the driftwood above the high-tide line.

There is no toilet here. Follow the trail into the forest to dig a cat hole or go on the beach well below the high-tide line. There is also no food storage. The best options for hanging are along the forest trail.

Collect drinking water from the streams on the west side of the bay.

Yellow Bluff Bay Camp is just a few minutes from Road Junction camp and is much nicer with a beautiful view of the bay. On my trip, we watched sea otters playing in the water all evening. This is also the pickup location for the Tahsis water taxi, which arrives early in the morning.

There is space for a few tents amongst the driftwood on the west side of the bay. Go to the bathroom below the high-tide line or head into the forest behind the beach since there is no toilet here. There is also no food storage, so plan to build a bear hang.

The main disadvantage of this campsite is that it has no water source. Haul water in from the streams just before road junction camp. It’s a 15-minute walk.

Campfire on the beach at Yellow Bluff Bay on the Tatchu Peninsula
Campfire on the beach at Yellow Bluff Bay west

Yellow Bluff Bay to Port Eliza

Distance: 12 km

Time: 5-7 hours

Difficulty: Challenging

Disclaimer: I haven’t hiked this section. We opted to do an out-and-back from Yellow Bluff Bay as the road walk didn’t sound that appealing.

But I did a ton of research and talked to other hikers about the route between Yellow Bluff and Port Eliza before my trip since we were considering it. The description below is the best overview I can write of this section.

I’ve heard that the road between Yellow Bluff and Port Eliza is very overgrown since there is no more active logging in the area. Some groups use a machete throughout this section.

If you are continuing to Port Eliza, take the trail from the centre of the beach, which soon meets up with an overgrown logging road.

Go left on the road as it heads north and ascends gently. A little over 1 km later, reach a junction and turn right on a much wider logging road.

Stay on the road as it trends southeast and heads back towards the coast. The road runs across the top of a cliff at the back of Yellow Bluff Bay about 1.8 km (1.1 mi) from the junction. There are great views from here.

A short distance later, the road descends towards the beach. The road is badly washed out here at a creek crossing. Previous hikers have hacked a short but difficult detour through thick vegetation down to the beach, then back up the other side. Watch your step here as it is very steep, rough, and unmarked.

The beach near the washout makes a good campsite since you can get water from the creek. Back on the road, you will pass an abandoned building and several clearings, part of an old logging camp

Stay on the main road, ignoring overgrown sideroads as it heads east and climbs slightly to curl around the north side of Leading Hill. The road crosses a few creeks through this stretch if you need to fill up on water.

The road turns to the north, then drops down to the old dock and former log dump at Port Eliza where you can meet your float plane to Gold River or water taxi to Zeballos.

Port Eliza is named for Francisco de Eliza y Reventa, a Spanish sailor who explored the coast of what is now British Columbia and Alaska in the 1790s, attempting to claim Nootka Sound for the Spanish.

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Tatchu Trail FAQ

How long is the Tatchu Trail?

The entire Tatchu Trail is 32 km long from Rugged Point to Port Eliza. However, I recommend that most hikers do an out-and-back trip from Rugged Point to Tatchu Creek for a total length of 28 km. Another option is an out-and-back from Yellow Bluff Bay to Rugged Point, which is 40 km long.

How difficult is the Tatchu Trail?

The trail ranges from moderate to very challenging, depending on how far you hike. The northern section between Rugged Point and Tatchu Creek is moderate.
If you go further to Yellow Bluff Bay or Port Eliza, it is very challenging. The southern end of the trail involves scrambling across steep rocks with big drop-offs, a cliff you must descend with a fixed rope, and an overgrown and washed-out logging road.

How many days is the Tatchu Trail?

Most hikers will spend 4-5 days hiking the Tatchu Trail, but itineraries of 2-6 days are possible.

When is the best time to hike the Tatchu Trail?

The summer months of June, July, August, and September have the warmest weather and the least rain. Early June and late September can be a bit colder and wetter.

Which direction should you hike the Tatchu Trail?

It can be hiked in either direction. There is no advantage to going south to north versus the other way. However, it is wise to time your trip with the tides.

How much does the Tatchu Trail cost?

There are no fees to hike the Tatchu Trail. The only cost is transportation by water taxi or float plane. See the Getting There section for more info.

What to pack for the Tatchu Trail?

You will need to be totally self-sufficient on the Tatchu Trail and carry in everything you will need for your trip. See my West Coast Trail packing guide for a full list of everything you will need.
In general, choose lightweight backpacking gear. The weather on the coast is also often very wet so be sure to pack accordingly.

What are the water sources like on the Tatchu Trail?

There are five large, reliable water sources on the Tatchu Trail: Sandpiper Creek, Kapoose Creek, Porritt Creek, Tatchu Creek, and the creek on the east side of Yellow Bluff Bay. There are also smaller creeks every few kilometres (as described above) but they may run dry.
Plan to filter or purify all water. Most streams have a dark tea colour from tannins in the soil. It can clog filters, so make sure you know how to clean yours.

What are the tides like on the Tatchu Trail?

There are several tidal obstacles on the Tatchu Trail where you will have to wait for the tide to go out to get around cliffs and rocky points. See the trail description above for details.
Use the Kyuquot tide table. Make sure you print out the predicted tide height for each hour of the day. It’s much more helpful than just using the daily highs and lows.

What is the weather like on the Tatchu Trail?

In general, the weather is typical west coast: chilly and a bit wet, even in the summer. Check the weather for Kyuquot and Tahsis before you go. Or use a pinpoint forecast from Spotwx.
The average temperature between June and September are 14-16°C. Average rainfall is lowest in July (79mm) but August (99 mm) is also dry. June (147mm) and September (145mm) are a bit wetter, but nothing compared to the winter months (467mm in January).

Are there bears, wolves, and cougars on the Tatchu Trail?

Yes, this is a remote part of Vancouver Island with a high wildlife population. You are most likely to see bears, but you can also see wolves and cougars. To minimize the risk of a negative encounter, hike in groups, make lots of noise, and carry bear spray just in case. At camp, hang your food securely and cook well away from your tent. Read my bear safety tips.

Is the Tatchu Trail dangerous?

If you are prepared, no. While the southern section has some very challenging terrain, experienced hikers can safely navigate the trail. Consider bringing a satellite messenger such as a Garmin inReach Mini for emergencies. Be careful on cliff edges, scrambles, slippery rocks, and when crossing streams.

Which maps should you use for the Tatchu Trail?

I used the Gaia GPS app, which was very helpful. I also brought John Baldwin’s Tatchu Peninsula Map. National Topographic System (NTS) Map 092E14 covers the trail, but isn’t very helpful.

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Scrambling across the rocks at Sandstone Point
Scrambling across the rocks at Sandstone Point

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That’s everything you need to know to hike the Tatchu Trail. If you have questions about backpacking on the Tatchu Peninsula, ask in the comments. I’m happy to help.

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Ozette Loop Hiking and Backpacking Guide https://dawnoutdoors.com/ozette-loop-guide/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/ozette-loop-guide/#comments Tue, 12 Apr 2022 17:15:00 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=1247 There are two ways to hike the Ozette Loop in Olympic National Park. The first is as a day hike, which takes 4-5 hours. But I prefer the second way – as a backpacking trip. That way you get to camp on wilderness beaches and really savor the scenery. The Ozette Loop is gorgeous! I …

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There are two ways to hike the Ozette Loop in Olympic National Park. The first is as a day hike, which takes 4-5 hours. But I prefer the second way – as a backpacking trip. That way you get to camp on wilderness beaches and really savor the scenery.

The Ozette Loop is gorgeous! I like this area so much I’ve backpacked here twice. It has great tide pools, and beautiful sunset views. And about 1/3 of the hike is directly along the coast. As day hike, it’s moderate. But if you split it up into 2 or 3 days as a backpacking trip, it’s ridiculously easy, which makes it great for kids and beginners.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Ozette Loop Trail Overview

Distance: 9.2 mi (15 km)

Duration: 4-5 hours (day hike) or 1-2 nights (backpacking trip)

Season: Open year-round but best between April and October

Elevation Gain: 164 ft

Difficulty: Moderate (day hike) or Easy (backpacking trip)

Dogs: Not allowed.

The Ozette Loop trail has an equilateral triangle shape with the parking lot at it’s apex (in fact it is also known as the Ozette Triangle Trail). Two sides of the triangle are trails through the woods out to the coast, and the third side where the campsites are is along the coast.

The loop is only 9.2 miles (15km) long so you can definitely hike it in one day. But given how long it takes to get there (and how beautiful the area is) I recommend camping and spending a few days on the trail. It’s an easy trip that is perfect for beginner backpackers or kids.

The coastal section is also part of the much longer North Coast Route in Olympic National Park so there are lots of options for extending your trip. (You can hike from Cape Alava all the way to Shi Shi Beach.)

Ozette Loop map

Ozette Loop Trail Fees, Permits and Reservations

Olympic National Park Entrance Fee

You need to buy a Park Entrance pass for your car to hike or camp in the park. It’s $30 per vehicle and is good for 7 days. You can buy your pass online at Recreation.gov or in the park. Leave it on the dash any time you park your car inside the National Park.

If you are day hiking, this is the only fee you need to pay.

Camping Permits and Fees

You must obtain a backcountry permit to camp at any of the campsites on the Ozette Loop Trail or any other backcountry location in Olympic National Park.

You can obtain a permit online via Recreation.gov. This is a very popular area and it does get fully booked up. Your best bet is to come before Memorial Day (the last Monday in May) or after Labour Day (the first Monday in September) or plan a trip that avoids weekends.

The earliest you can make a reservation for a permit is six months before your trip. Reservations cost $6 per trip. You will also need to pay a wilderness fee of $8 per person per night.

READ NEXT: 2022 Washington Backpacking Reservation Dates

An elephant shaped rock formation on the Ozette Loop trail in Olympic National Park
A elephant (or mammoth?) shaped rock formation along the way

Ozette Loop Trail Description

Unlike some loop hikes, there is no recommended direction of travel on the Ozette Loop. However, I like to start with the southern section and then hike north as the sun as it at your back rather than in your eyes.

From the parking area, follow the trail across the bridge. A few minutes later, arrive at a junction, where you go left. The trail on the right is your return route.

For the next three miles the trail heads southwest towards the ocean on a mix of gravel trail and boardwalks. In general, it’s very easy hiking, unless the boardwalks are slippery.

A hiker walks across an elevated boardwalk on an inland portion of the Ozette Loop Trail
Walking the inland trail boardwalks on the way to Sand Point

The trail emerges on the beach at Sand Point. Take some time to explore the area including a collapsed sea stack hill you can climb for great views. If you are camping and want to extend your trip you can turn left here and hike south down the beach to Yellow Banks.

But if you just want to complete the Ozette Loop hike, turn right and follow the coast. The next three miles will be along the beach. Sometimes it is easy walking on sand, but in other places, you may have to pick your way across slippery rocks. Try to time your trip for low tide for the easiest passage.

READ NEXT: Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Hiking and Backpacking

About four miles from the start (and one mile from Sand Point) you will arrive at a tidal obstacle. If the tide is below 5.5 feet, you can walk on the beach. If it is not, you will need to take a short and rough overland trail. Look for the red and black circular markers to find the bypass trail.

Three hikers with large backpacks scramble across rocks on the shoreline at low tide on the Ozette Loop
Trekking around the tidal obstacle just north of Sand Point

Continue along the beach. About five miles from the start you will arrive at Wedding Rocks. If you look carefully here, you will discover some Indigenous petroglyphs.

Petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks on the Ozette Loop
The petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks

Wedding Rocks is another tidal obstacle. You can remain on the beach if the tide is 5 feet or lower. If not, you can scramble around on the rocks or use a network of trails that cross over the bluff.

Keep hiking down the beach until you reach the camping area at Cape Alava. It has great views of Ozette Island just offshore as well as Tskawahyah Island to the north. You may also be able to spot sea otters in the kelp forests just offshore.

The view of Ozette Island from Cape Alava in Olympic National Park. The still water shows a reflection of blue sky, clouds, and the small forested island.
Looking across to Ozette Island from near Cape Alava

The land just to the north of the campground (including Cape Alava proper and Tskawahyah Island) are part of the Ozette Indian reservation so you can’t camp there and you should not climb on the island as it is sacred to the Indigenous Makah people (although you can walk the beach around it at low tide).

The area was the site of an archeological dig in the 1980s as historically it was an important village. Today, the only thing that remains now is a falling down shack that was once a ranger station and a little hut with a memorial plaque and some pieces of whale bone.

Whale bones displayed inside a small hut at the Ozette Memorial near Cape Alava. It is an important archeological site as there was an Indigenous Makah village there.
The Ozette Memorial and whale bone collection

Once you have finished exploring Cape Alava, find the start of the inland trail in the campground near the creek. Follow the trail for three miles as it heads back to the parking lot on a mix of boardwalk and gravel trail. It is mostly in the forest, but does pass through some sections of interesting coastal bog.

Arrive back at the junction and go left and over the bridge to return to the parking lot.

How to Get to the Ozette Loop Trail

There is no public transportation to the trailhead so you’ll have to drive yourself. However, there may be hiker shuttle companies operating in the area – call the Wilderness Information Center to ask.

Travel time to the trailhead is time consuming: about 6.5 hours from Vancouver or about 4.5 hours from Seattle both of which involve a trip on a Washington State ferry.

If you need a car, the best places to rent a car are Vancouver or Seattle. You can also rent cars in Port Angeles. I use Discover Cars since it lets you compare prices from lots of different companies. That way you can be sure you are getting the best deal.

There is a big gravel parking lot at the trailhead. You must display proof of National Park entry fees on your dashboard.

An adult pushes a boy on a rope swing on the beach of the Ozette Loop Trail
Rope swing near Cape Alava

Where to Stay Near the Ozette Loop Trail

Given the driving distance to the trailhead, you may want to stay in the area the night before you start the trail.

Hotels Near the Ozette Loop Trail

There are several good hotels in Port Angeles, the closest city to the trailhead at 2 hours away. The Aircrest Motel gets great reviews and is budget priced. The Red Lion Hotel is right on the harbor and has great views.

There aren’t a lot of places to stay closer to the trailhead since it is such a rural area. One of the closest places is Curley’s Resort in the town of Sekiu, which is 40 minutes away.

Camping Near the Ozette Loop Trail

There are several campgrounds in between Port Angeles and the trailhead.

Tides on the Ozette Loop Trail

Trail markers showing beach access routes on the Ozette Triangle trail
Black and red targets mark the places the trail leaves the beach

Unlike the rest of the Olympic coast routes, you aren’t entirely dependent on the tides on the Ozette Loop since there are rough bypass trails around both of the tidal obstacles. Large red and black circular markers show all the places where the main trail or a tidal obstacle bypass trail hits the beach. You’ll want to print out and carry the La Push tide table with you along with a wristwatch.

There are two places on the loop where you need to be aware of the tides: one mile north of Sand Banks and at Wedding Rocks. Find details on both in the trail description above.

A hiker scrambles across jumbled rocks next to the ocean at Wedding Rocks on the Ozette Loop
Scouting a route across the boulders at Wedding Rocks at high tide

Backcountry Camping on the Ozette Loop Trail

The main camping areas on the Ozette Loop are the two locations where the inland trail hits the beach: Sand Point and Cape Alava. There are also several other sites along the trail or nearby.

Camping at Sand Point

The Sand Point campsite has a pit toilet and numerous campsites in the forest. With a few exceptions, the campsites at Sand Point do not have views as they are set back in the trees. You can also camp on the beach above the high tide line but in some places there may not be much beach left when the tide comes in. Right at the point, there are two grassy collapsed sea stack hills that you can climb for a great view.

The main water source at this campsite is Wish Creek, located about 400 meters down the beach to the south of the point. You may have to walk up into the forest along the creek bed to find a place where it is flowing deep enough.

Campfires are not permitted at Sand Point.

A hiker climbs a grassy hill at Sand Point on the Ozette Loop
The collapsed sea stack hill at Sand Point

Camping at Cape Alava

Cape Alava has quite a few very nice campsites that are off the sand but have a view of the water or you can camp on the beach above the high tide line.

This campsite has two pit toilets. One is easily visible from the main trail through the campsites. The other one is hidden a bit behind some trees directly behind a campsite at the northern end of the campground (I didn’t even know it was there until my third visit to the area!)

The water source at Cape Alava is located right near where the inland trail hits the beach and there is a log bridge over the creek so it’s hard to miss. However, the creek often has very low flow so you will have to climb down into the creek bed and follow it inland for a bit. Alternately you can walk out to Cape Alava, then about 400m down the beach to the north to find a better water source hidden back in the trees next to a couple (illegal) campsites.

Campfires are permitted at Cape Alava but you can only use driftwood (not wood from the forest) and there isn’t that much of it.

A small tent pitched in front of the shoreline at low tide at Cape Alava on the Ozette Loop
One of the prime campsites at Cape Alava

Other Camping Options on the Ozette Loop

If you want to beat the crowds at Sand Point and Cape Alava you have a few other options for camping.

Camping at South Sand Point

On my last trip we made a reservation for the campsite at South Sand Point, about a mile south of the main Sand Point camping area and had it all to ourselves. This campsite has 4 or 5 level tent sites in the trees on a bluff above the beach, a throne style pit toilet and a creek for water. Despite what is marked on some maps, you can find the campsite right where the South Sand Point Trail to Lake Ozette meets the beach. Campfires are not permitted at South Sand Point.

A small grey tent pitched in the forest at South Sand Point on the Ozette Loop
Forest bluff campsite at South Sand Point
The beach at South Sand Point on the Ozette Loop
The beach at South Sand Point, looking south to Yellow Bluffs

Camping at Wedding Rocks

You can also make reservations to camp at Wedding Rocks, a rock outcropping with some Indigenous petroglyphs. The camping here is not actually right at the rocks but at a few locations just to the south or north up the bank in the trees. The sites aren’t marked.

There are no pit toilets so you will need to dig a cat hole and go to the bathroom the Leave No Trace way. There are also no water source so you will have to haul water in from one of the sources near Cape Alava or Sand Point. Campfires are not permitted at Wedding Rocks.

READ NEXT: Backpacking Checklist: Gear You Need To Go Backpacking

Ozette Loop Trail Backpacking Itineraries

One Night: Break the trip up into one 3 mile day and one 6 mile day, staying overnight at either Sand Point or Cape Alava. camp about halfway through the loop at Wedding Rocks to make two 4.5 mile days.

Two Nights: For a very relaxed trip, stay one night at Cape Alava and one night at Sand Point, hiking 3 miles each day. Or stay one night at South Sand Point and another at Cape Alava. Staying at South Sand Point will add 2 miles to your trip.

A brilliant orange sunset at Cape Alava on the Ozette Loop
Don’t miss the spectacular sunsets at Cape Alava

READ NEXT: Backpacking for Beginners: Tips for Getting Started

Food Storage on the Ozette Loop Trail

Bear Canisters Required

Apparently the racoons on the Olympic Coast are particularly intelligent and have figured out how to eat hiker’s food if it is hung in a tree (which usually works to keep bears out if it).

The National Park’s Wilderness Food Storage Policy now requires that all backcountry campers on the entire coast store their food in bear canisters.

You can borrow canisters from the Olympic National Park Wilderness Information Center (WIC) in Port Angeles. There is no charge as long as you have a wilderness permit. They even have a handy drop slot if you need to return your canister after they have closed for the night.

Bear Canister Packing Tips

Travelling with a bear canister requires a bit of advance planning. Store all of your scented items (toiletries, etc.), garbage and food in the canister at night or if you aren’t right next to it (for example if you are off on a day hike).

Plan lightweight and compact meals and bring minimal toiletries. If you pack efficiently you can usually share one canister between two people for a two night trip. Planning for one canister per person (or perhaps two canisters between three people) is a bit more prudent.

Most people choose to put the canister inside their pack as they are difficult (though not impossible) to strap to the outside. In camp, store your canisters away from your tent and kitchen area. Make sure they can’t be rolled away (or into the water!) Here are more tips about using a bear canister.

If you plan to do multiple trips in areas where bear canisters are required, it’s easier to just buy your own instead of renting one. I own both the Garcia Machine Backpackers Cache and the Bear Vault. I prefer the Bear Vault since it has straight sides so it’s easier to pack, and it’s clear so you can see whats at the bottom. Check prices: MEC | REI | Amazon.

A hiker walks along the beach on the North Coast route in Olympic National Park near Cape Alava.
Beach hiking near Sand Point

Water Sources and Water Treatment on the Ozette Loop Trail

There are few water sources on the trail: just the ones already mentioned at South Sand Point, Sand Point and Cape Alava. The water sources are coastal swamps and can be quite tea-colored. Some people prefer to add drink powder to their water to disguise the color.  

Later in the season the streams can be dry so inquire with the WIC before your trip.  As well, reports show that there are parasites (cryptosporidium and giardia) in the streams. Iodine is not an effective treatment for parasites so filter or boil your water before drinking.

I use the Platypus Gravity Works filter. You can fill up the dirty water reservoir at the creek, carry it back to the campsite, then let gravity do the work of filtering your water. We have the 2L size, but our friends have the 4L size which is great for groups. Buy: MEC | REI | Amazon.

A hiker stands near Cape Alava and looks through binoculars with Tskawahyah Island in the background
Trying to spot Otters near Tskawahyah Island

Further Reading and Maps for the Ozette Loop Trail

You can find more information about the Ozette Loop on the Olympic National Park website. It has a good overview map of the park with campsites and trails marked. For actual travel on the trail you should purchase the North Olympic Coast topographic map by Custom Correct maps as it has trails, distances, and tidal obstacles marked. You can buy it online from REI. You can also buy it at the Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles

Before you hike the trail check the trail conditions page on Olympic National Park website. You can also read trip reports on the Washington Trails Association website.

READ NEXT:

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Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary and Section-by-Section Overview https://dawnoutdoors.com/juan-de-fuca-trail-itinerary-and-section-by-section-overview/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/juan-de-fuca-trail-itinerary-and-section-by-section-overview/#comments Fri, 03 Dec 2021 22:40:36 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=12222 Heads up: The Juan de Fuca Trail is closed in summer 2025 due to significant storm damage. It is not possible to hike the entire trail, but you can visit Mystic Beach and East Sombrio Beach. The Juan de Fuca Trail covers 47 challenging kilometres along the coast of southwestern Vancouver Island. I’ve hiked the …

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Heads up: The Juan de Fuca Trail is closed in summer 2025 due to significant storm damage. It is not possible to hike the entire trail, but you can visit Mystic Beach and East Sombrio Beach.

The Juan de Fuca Trail covers 47 challenging kilometres along the coast of southwestern Vancouver Island. I’ve hiked the trail twice, so I put together a Juan de Fuca Trail itinerary to help you get prepared for your trip.

I also have several Juan de Fuca itinerary options for trips between 3 and 7 days and options for doing just part of the trail. (The JDF is also featured in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.)

Use this Juan de Fuca itinerary and section-by-section overview to plan your trip. It includes:

  • details on what each section is like including distances, difficulty, hiking time, and must-sees
  • info on each campsite
  • sample itinerary for a standard 4-day trip plus six more itinerary options

WANT MORE JUAN DE FUCA TRAIL INFO? Check out these posts:

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Key Distances on the Juan de Fuca Trail

KMLocation
0China Beach Trailhead
1Pete Wolf Creek Suspension Bridge
2Mystic Beach and Camp
8Start of Bear Beach
8.6Bear Beach Camp East – Rosemund Creek
8.7 Bear Beach Tide Cut-off
9.6Bear Beach Camp Centre – Clinch Creek
10.5Bear Beach Camp West – Rock on a Pillar
20.5Chin Beach East Bluff Camp
20.6Chin Beach East Tide Cut-off
21Chin Beach Camp
21.3Chin Beach West Tide Cut-off
22.1End of Extreme Low Tide Route
23.8Loss Creek Suspension Bridge
24.8Trail joins old logging roads
26Trail leaves old logging roads
26.5Sombrio Point Viewpoint
27Sombrio Beach Camp Far East
27.6Sombrio Beach Camp East
28Sombrio Beach East Tide Cut-Off
29Sombrio Beach West Camp and Sombrio Beach Trailhead
29.2Sombrio River Suspension Bridge
29.3Sombrio Beach Far West Camp
29.6Sombrio Beach West Tide Cut-Off
30.2Sombrio Beach West-West Tide Cut-Off
32Minute Creek Suspension Bridge
33Little Kuitshe Creek Camp
37 Parkinson Creek Trailhead
38Start of optional reef shelf route
39End of optional reef shelf route
40Payzant Creek Camp
41Side trail to Providence Cove
45Botanical Beach
47Botanical Beach Trailhead

China Beach Trailhead to Mystic Beach

Distance: 2 km

Time: 30-45 min

Highlights: Pete Wolf Creek suspension bridge, Mystic Beach waterfall

Cumulative Elevation Gain: 105 m

Difficulty: moderate

The China Beach Trailhead is actually located at the China Beach Day Use Area, which is few minutes up the road from the China Beach Campground at Juan de Fuca Provincial Park.

There are two parking lots here – the upper parking lot on the right is where you’ll find the Juan de Fuca Trailhead. The lower parking lot on the left has the trail to China Beach. There’s an outhouse here if you need one.

The first part of the Juan de Fuca Trail rambles through a fairly level section of forest. About 1km from the trailhead, cross the suspension bridge over Pete Wolf Creek. This is the first of several suspension bridges on the trail.

Pete Wolf Creek Suspension Bridge
Pete Wolf Creek Suspension Bridge

Shortly after the bridge, the trail curves left and starts heading downhill. You’ll start to hear and smell the ocean as you work your way down sets of stairs towards Mystic Beach.

A hiker on the Juan de Fuca Trail on Vancouver Island. Use this Juan de Fuca Trail itinerary to plan your hike.
Mystic Beach

Mystic Beach Camp

Mystic Beach is one of the smaller beaches on the Juan de Fuca Trail at just 350m long. The highlight here is the beautiful white sand and the waterfall that tumbles over the cliffs at the east end. Try to time your visit for low tide so you can go right up to the waterfall or explore a rock arch at the west end of the beach.

The trail hits the beach roughly in the center. Find the continuation of the Juan de Fuca Trail at the west end of the beach along with a creek to get drinking water.

The toilets and bear cache are located up a steep side trail just east of the route from the trailhead.

This beach doesn’t have that many campsite options. There are a few tent sites tucked into the forest behind the beach and flat clearings on the gravel as well as a few sandy spots near the path to the trailhead that may be underwater at higher tides.

Mystic Beach to Bear Beach

Distance: 7.6 km

Time: 2-3.5 hours

Highlights: beach hiking, ocean viewpoints

Cumulative Elevation Gain: 270 m

Difficulty: moderate

Leaving Mystic Beach, the trail climbs up onto a bluff and rambles along the top. There are some peek-a-boo views through this section. Around KM3, the trail heads uphill to a bridge over Pat Phillip Creek, then back downhill again.

The trail sticks fairly close to the edge of the bluff and travels through some beautiful forest. However, you can’t see the ocean. There are fresh clear-cuts just uphill and in a few places, they are visible from the trail.

The trail climbs back uphill again to cross Bent Creek around 5km. You descend briefly before ascending again to cross Fatt Creek around 6km. Watch for a brief viewpoint between the two.

The trail descends steeply to the east end of Bear Beach around the 8km marker on a rough and muddy trail beside a waterfall.

BC Parks is doing trail maintenance in this area to stabilize the slope. When I hiked it, there was a temporary ladder bolted to the cliff (pictured below), but as of spring 2024 there are permanent ladders here.

Bear Beach is one of the longest beaches on the Juan de Fuca Trail at over 2km long. It is fairly rocky so take your time as you navigate the slippery terrain. It’s very easy to twist an ankle.

There are three camping areas along the beach. (See the Bear Beach Camp section below for details.) Bear Beach East Camp at Rosemund Creek is just a few minutes from the spot where the trail meets the beach.

Just past the creek, you’ll encounter your first tidal obstacle of the trail. At tides above 3m, the ocean laps up against the cliffs for half a kilometre. There is no alternate route, so you’ll have to wait at high tide. This section has lots of large slippery rocks, so take your time.

Tidal obstacle at Bear Beach
Cliff at Bear Beach

Reach Clinch Creek and Bear Beach Centre camp at the other end of the cliffs about 9.6 km from the trailhead. Clinch Creek is named after the shipwreck of the D.L. Clinch, which ran aground here in 1860. At low tide, you can see pieces of the schooner.

If you need to get off the trail in an emergency, an unmarked trail heads up the hill from the east side of Clinch Creek. It’s a 1.5 km hike with 120m of elevation gain on this trail and then an old logging road to Highway 14.

Past here, continue along the rocky beach around the corner to reach Ledingham Creek and Bear Beach West Camp at Rock on a Pillar 10.5 km from the start.

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Bear Beach Camp

There are three campsites spread out along Bear Beach.

Bear Beach East Camp is located at Rosemund Creek at 8.6 km. Find the toilet and bear cache just west of the creek. There are a few forest campsites on the way to the toilet and limited spots above the high tide line for tents.

Bear Beach Centre Camp is at 9.6 km on either side of Clinch Creek. I think this is the nicest campsite on the Juan de Fuca Trail. The outhouse and bear cache are located west of the creek, along with a few forest campsites. But the best sites are right next to Clinch Creek.

Bear Beach West Camp is at the far end of the beach next to Ledingham Creek, 10.5km from the trailhead. This camp is also known as Rock on a Pillar after the rock formation just offshore. It has a toilet and bear cache just back from the beach. There are only a few campsites here including a few hacked out of the salal and a couple of marginal sites on a flat gravel shelf on the beach.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

Bear Beach to Chin Beach

Distance: 11.4 km

Time: 4-6 hours

Highlights: beach hiking, old-growth forests

Elevation Gain: 540 m

Difficulty: Challenging

Although this section doesn’t have any beach walking, it does have some of the most beautiful old-growth forests of Western red cedar, Sitka spruce, and Western hemlock on the entire trail.

BC Parks rates this section as the most challenging part of the Juan de Fuca. However, I can’t say I agree. Yes, it does have a lot of steep hills and a few scrambly sections. And of course tons of mud. But I think some of the sections further west are equally challenging.

BC Parks’ ratings were developed when the trail was newly built and since the trail has eroded badly in some areas, that has changed the difficulty rating.

The route to Chin beach starts with a steep climb out of the Ledingham Creek valley. The next few kilometres have several sharp ups and downs. As you reach KM 13, the trail runs next to an old logging road for a few minutes through a brief flat section.

Descend gradually to Newmarch Creek at KM 14, then climb back up onto the bluff. The rest of the hike to Chin Beach is along the top of the bluff, although you will gain and lose the same 50m over and over again.

Use caution at the crossing of an unnamed creek at KM 16.5. A muddy fixed rope can help you descend the steep and slippery bank.

Using a rope to cross a tricky creek on the Juan de Fuca Trail
Rope assisted creek crossing

Cross Lines Creek on a tall bridge just before KM 19. The trail meanders along the top of the bluff in an old-growth forest for another kilometre.

Old Growth forest
Old-growth forest

Reach the Chin Beach East Bluff Camp on the bluff above the beach at 20.5km. This is the former location of the Chin Beach emergency shelter. It was removed in 2022 and in early 2023 a few tent pads and a bear cache were installed.

This campsite is a good place to stay if you get caught by the tide or if you want to avoid the crowds at Chin Beach. However, it doesn’t have a water source so you will need to plan ahead and haul in water. There are a few smalls creek a few minutes east along the trail.

Chin Beach Emergency Shelter
Chin Beach Emergency Shelter – demolished in 2022

Descend the steep trail to the east end of Chin Beach. The reef shelf at 20.6km is impassable at high tides above 2.75 m, so you may have to wait. Find Chin Beach campsite near KM 21 at the centre of the beach on either side of a creek.

An emergency exit trail leaves from behind the campsite. It’s a 1.5km walk with 210 m of elevation gain to Highway 14.

Chin Beach Camp

Chin Beach has limited camping space. Plan to arrive at this campsite early to get a spot.

There is space for about 10 tents in clearings in the forest behind the beach on either side of the creek, but many of the sites are very close together. There are also several marginal sites on the gravel bench above the high tide line.

The toilets and bear cache are located just west of the creek.

There is also an overflow area on Chin Beach East Bluff at the site of the former emergency shelter, described in the section above this one.

Chin Beach Campground
The beach in front of Chin Beach Campground

Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach

Distance: 8 km

Time: 3-4 hours

Highlights: Chin Beach, Loss Creek Suspension Bridge, Sombrio Point, Sombrio Beach, Sombrio Beach

Elevation Gain: 350 m

Difficulty: Very Challenging

This is one of the most challenging sections of the Juan de Fuca Trail. It has by far the biggest climb on the trail and some tricky terrain around Sombrio Point. However, it also has some beautiful ocean views and you get to cross the dramatic Loss Creek Suspension Bridge. And it has less mud than other sections.

From Chin Beach camp, walk a few hundred meters along the rocky beach and look for the buoy in the trees pointing the way to the inland trail at 21.3 km. It’s a tough scramble up a rock. At high tides, you may have to time your ascent to avoid getting your boots wet.

Rock scramble at the west end of Chin Beach
Access trail to the west side of Chin Beach

At tides below 1m, you can continue along the beach past here for another 0.5km, but most hikers will need to take the forest route. The two routes converge at 22.1 km.

Climb a steep hill, then head down the other side for another section of rambling trail along the top of the bluff. Reach the Loss Creek Suspension Bridge at 23.8km. This is the most dramatic bridge on the trail since it is the longest and highest. Be sure to pause in the middle to admire the view of the sea stacks at the mouth of the creek.

On the other side of the creek, the big climb begins. Follow the trail as it switchbacks up the steep slope, gaining nearly 150m. The trail joins an old road just before KM 25. It’s easy walking along here until you leave the road near KM 26. Begin a steep descent along a narrow ridge with some large old-growth trees.

Old growth trees near Loss Creek
Old growth forest near Sombrio Point

Pause at Sombrio Point at 26.5km and enjoy the spectacular views. You can see Sombrio Beach ahead of you to the west.

The remaining trail to Sombrio Beach is tough and technical. Follow the trail around the point and along the top of the cliff. In some places, a wire railing protects you from the steep drop. Be careful on a scramble across wet rocks.

Watch for a pretty waterfall tumbling over the cliff. Cross the bridge above the waterfall, then begin the descent to Sombrio Beach.

Waterfall at Sombrio Point
Waterfall at the east end of Sombrio Beach

Immediately after you emerge on the beach, follow a faint side trail beside a stream for a few minutes. It leads to a unique waterfall deep in a mossy canyon. You may have to wade in the creek to get a closer look but it’s worth it. Please respect this beautiful place and do not add any graffiti.

A hiker explores the hidden waterfall at Sombrio Beach
Hidden waterfall at Sombrio Beach

On the other side of the creek, pass the campsites at Sombrio Beach Camp Far East at KM 27 and then Sombrio Beach East Camp at 27.6 km. Reach the Sombrio Beach East tidal obstacle near KM 28 which is impassable at tides above 3m. There is no alternative route, so if you arrive at high tide you’ll have to wait it out.

Past the tidal obstacle, arrive at Sombrio Beach West Camp and the side trail to the Sombrio Beach Trailhead at KM 29. You will likely encounter lots of surfers and day-trippers here enjoying the beach. Follow the trail past an outhouse towards the parking lot.

Sombrio Beach near the trail to the parking lot

This area is known as Qwa:qlis and was the site of a Pacheedaht village. The area was also home to a thriving community of hippies and surfers who had squatters shacks here until the 1990s.

If you need to exit the trail here, the Sombrio Beach Road is 2km long and gains 120m on its way back to Highway 14.

.

Sombrio Beach Camp

The campsites at Sombrio are the most popular ones on the trail. Since it’s only a 10-minute walk from the Sombrio Beach parking lot, many camp here who aren’t doing the entire Juan de Fuca Trail. It’s also one of the best surfing spots on southern Vancouver Island.

If you want a more secluded experience stay at East Camp or Far East Camp. Most surfers and casual campers don’t bother to hike that far. We camped at Sombrio East in 2009 and it was much quieter than the partying occuring at Sombrio West.

People explore Sombrio Beach on Vancouver Island
Day trippers at Sombrio Beach

The campsites are arranged into four main areas, but you may be able to find campsites elsewhere along the beach.

Sombrio Beach Far East Camp is located about 27km from the trailhead at the eastern end of the beach, just west of the spot where the trail leaves the beach and the hidden waterfall. There is good camping on the soft sand above the high tide line. An outhouse and bear cache are located in the brush behind the beach.

Sombrio Beach East Camp is a few hundred meters further along at 27.6km. There is lots of space for tents above the high tide line. A signed trail leads to an outhouse and food cache behind the beach.

Sombrio West Camp is the main campsite on Sombrio Beach at KM 29. This area is the most popular with casual weekend campers and surfers who don’t want to carry their gear far from the car. There are tent spots in cleared areas on the top of the bank as well as a few sites on the sand. But be careful of the high tide here! There are two outhouses and two food caches nearby on the trail to the parking lot.

Sombrio Far West Camp is the only camping area on the west side of the Sombrio River at 29.2km. It has five wooden tent platforms in the forest where the trail from the suspension bridge meets the beach. There are also a few marginal sites on the beach above the high tide line. The outhouse and bear cache are located inland along the trail to the bridge.

Sombrio Beach to Little Kuitshe Creek

Distance: 4 km

Time: 1-2 hours

Highlights: Sombrio Beach, Sombrio River Suspension Bridge

Elevation Gain: 40 m

Difficulty: Moderate

The Juan de Fuca Trail between Sombrio Beach and Little Kuitshe Creek travels through a dense second-growth forest that can feel quite dark. You can often hear the ocean, but you won’t see it very much.

At the junction with the trail to the Sombrio Beach parking lot, go left towards the Sombrio River Suspension Bridge. In Spanish, Sombrio means shady. The early Spanish explorers named the river in the late 1700s. The beach and nearby Sombrio Point take their name from the river.

Sombrio River Suspension Bridge
Sombrio River Suspension Bridge

Cross the bridge at KM 29.2, then follow the trail on the west side back to the beach. The trail has been rerouted around a washout and is a bit rough.

Emerge on the beach at Sombrio Far West Camp at 29.3 km. Past here, the beach is very rocky, so watch your step, especially if it is wet. Encounter the Sombrio West tidal obstacle at 29.6km. At tides below 2.6m, you can stay on the beach around this cliff, but at high tides, you’ll have to wait.

Cliffs at Sombrio Beach West
Cliff at Sombrio Beach West

Continue along the rocky beach. At KM 30.2, reach the Sombrio West-West tidal obstacle at a point. There is a 500m-long bypass trail around it through the forest if the tide is higher than 3m. You have arrived at the end of Sombrio Beach.

The trail climbs up to about 25m above sea level and stays near that elevation all the way to Kuitshe Creek. This section of the trail is in second-growth forest and salal tunnels that can be very muddy.

At KM32 cross the suspension bridge over Minute Creek, the final suspension bridge of the trail. Look up stream for a peek-a-boo view of a waterfall.

At 32.5km the trail runs closer to the edge of the cliff and you can look down into a surge channel. When big waves wash in, spray thunders out the top of the chasm.

Reach Little Kuitshe Creek Camp at KM33.

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Little Kuitshe Creek Camp

This campsite is set in a dark and scrubby patch of second-growth forest on a bluff above the ocean. You can’t see the ocean from camp, but you can follow a very steep trail to a rock outcropping above the water. Honestly, I found this campsite a little depressing, but the ocean access saved it.

Enjoying the sunset from the rocks near Little Kuitshe Creek Camp
Enjoying the sunset from the ocean access at Little Kuitshe Creek Camp

The toilet and bear cache are on a spur trail uphill from the main trail and most of the campsites are on a spur trail downhill.

The campground has 7 or 8 flat spots for tents but many of them are poorly drained, so be careful in wet weather. There are also several other marginal sites where you can camp in a pinch.

To collect drinking water, continue on the main trail for a minute as it heads downhill to Little Kuitshe Creek.

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Little Kuitshe Creek to Payzant Creek

Distance: 7 km

Time: 2.5-4 hours

Highlights: Parkinson Creek Trailhead, reef shelf tidepools

Elevation Gain: 100 m

Difficulty: Challenging

BC Parks rates the section between Little Kuitshe Creek and Payzant Creek as moderate, but I think it is challenging. It features lots of eroding trail, mud holes, exposed tree roots, broken boardwalk, and wooden stairs that are dangerously falling apart. That makes travel through here quite slow.

This section features lots of short, steep hills, but you never get much higher than 50m above sea level.

Leaving Little Kuitshe Creek, you’ll encounter several sections of broken stairs and boardwalk. But after a few minutes, you’ll also get to walk through a section of old-growth forest, spared from logging many years ago.

Around KM36 the trail gets less rough as you travel on an old logging road that climbs gently. Arrive at the Parkinson Creek Trailhead at KM37, which has an outhouse. If you want to exit the trail here, the Parkinson Creek Road is 3km long and gains 190m on its way to Highway 14.

There is no designated campsite here. To continue along the Juan de Fuca Trail, walk through the parking lot and pick up the trail on the other side. Follow the trail along old logging roads, watching for the sign indicating that the trail leaves the road and heads into a tight second-growth forest.

Near KM38, the trail emerges at the shoreline. This section features a rocky reef shelf. At low tide, it can be a fun place to explore and look for tide pools.

You can walk on the reef shelf between KM38 and KM39 at low tides. Watch for marker buoys in the trees to indicate when you must leave the beach and head back into the forest.

After the reef section, head back into the forest. Decaying boardwalks and wooden stairs in this area help you across some of the mud but may also slow you down as you try to navigate the tricky terrain.

Cross a creek with a small waterfall and arrive at Payzant Creek Camp at KM40.

Log stairs near Payzant Creek
Log stairs near Payzant Creek

Payzant Creek Camp

Payzant Creek Camp is set in a lush old-growth forest and does not have beach access. I stayed here on my 2009 hike and enjoyed the giant trees, but missed having an ocean view.

It has 12 prepared tent pads spread out across two spur trails downhill from the main trail. There are also a few overflow spots, but be careful as some collect water in wet weather.

A tent pad at Payzant Creek Camp
Choose wisely: some of the tent pads are poorly drained.

The outhouse is right next to the main trail and the food cache is a short distance away on a signed spur trail uphill. Collect drinking water from Payzant Creek just east of camp.

Payzant Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead

Distance: 7 km

Time: 2-3 hours

Highlights: Providence Cove, reef shelf, tidepools, Botanical Beach Trailhead

Elevation Gain: 150 m

Difficulty: Moderate

Continue along the trail past Payzant Creek as it descends to cross Yauh Creek on a log bridge. On the other side, watch for a spur trail heading left towards the beach at Providence Cove at KM41. Camping is not allowed on the beach here, but it makes a great place for a break.

About 41.5km from the trailhead the path emerges from the forest on a rocky reef shelf. Follow the trail along the rocks for a few minutes, then watch for a marker buoy to show you the way back to the main trail.

The trail sticks close to the ocean for the next kilometre with lots of opportunities for views. You may be tempted to walk along the rocky reef shelf, but it is very scrambly, especially if you are carrying a heavy pack.

Follow the trail as it turns inland and climbs a small hill to a bridge over Soule Creek at 43.1km. You immediately head back towards the ocean with a few short sections of decaying boardwalk to make walking a bit faster. There are some big old-growth trees in this section.

Around KM44 there is a great view of the ocean from the bluff. About 0.5km later the trail runs behind the beach. You can stay on the muddy forest trail or walk along the shoreline and explore the rock formations and tide pools.

Rocks at Botanical Beach

Reach Botanical Beach at KM45. The tide pools in this area are world-famous. Try to time your visit for tides below 1m to get the full experience. The Pacheedaht call this beach łi:xwa:p and they had a village with six big-houses here.

At KM 46 leave the beach on a set of stairs and arrive at an outhouse and junction. The trail to the parking lot and trailhead heads straight uphill on an old road. The rough trail to Botany Bay and more tidal pools heads left.

Follow the main trail up the hill for 1km, gaining 75m. Arrive at the Botanical Beach Trailhead at KM47, having completed the entire Juan de Fuca Trail. There are outhouses in the parking lot near the Botany Bay trailhead.

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Juan de Fuca Trail Itineraries

Standard 4-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

I think this standard 4-day itinerary is the best one for most people. It spreads out the effort fairly evenly across the days.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Little Kuitshe Creek: 12 km (4-6 hours)

Day 4 – Little Kuitshe Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 14 km (4.5-7 hours)

Relaxed 5-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

If you want to take it a little slower, this 5-day itinerary is a good choice. This is the itinerary I used when I hiked the trail for the first time in 2009.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach: 8 km (3-4 hours)

Day 4 – Sombrio Beach to Payzant Creek: 11 km (3.5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Payzant Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 7 km (2-3 hours)

Super Relaxed 6-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

Beginner hikers, families, and those that just want to take their time and chill out will like this super-relaxed 6-day itinerary. You can also make it even more relaxed by adding a 7th day and camping at Mystic Beach on the first (or last) night.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach: 8 km (3-4 hours)

Day 4 – Sombrio Beach to Little Kuitshe Creek: 4 km (1-2 hours)

Day 5 – Little Kuitshe Creek to Payzant Creek: 7 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 6 – Payzant Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 7 km (2-3 hours)

Ledingham Creek at Bear Beach at high tide
Ledingham Creek mouth at high tide

Fast 3-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

If you want to blitz through the Juan de Fuca Trail, I recommend either of these two speedy 3-day itineraries. Option A avoids the boring forest campsites but has a punishing middle day. Option B has a brutal first day.

Option A:

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Sombrio Beach: 19.4 km (7-10 hours)

Day 3 – Sombrio Beach to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 18 km (5.5-9 hours)

Option B:

Day 1: China Beach Trailhead to Chin Beach: 21 km (6.5-10.25 hours)

Day 2: Chin Beach to Little Kuitshe Creek: 12 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3: Little Kuitshe Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead: 14 km (4.5-7 hours)

3-Day Eastern Half of the Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

If you have less time or just want to sample the trail, you may want to consider just hiking the eastern half between China Beach and Sombrio Beach. In my opinion, this is the nicest section of the trail anyway.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach: 8 km (3-4 hours)

Yo-yo 7-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary

To avoid having to arrange transportation or to spend more days on the trail, some people opt to hike the trail from one end to the other, then turn around hike back. This is often called a yo-yo hike. Here’s a sample 7-day itinerary for yo-yo-ing the Juan de Fuca Trail.

Day 1 – China Beach Trailhead to Bear Beach: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

Day 2 – Bear Beach to Chin Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Payzant Creek: 19 km (6.5-10 hours)

Day 4A – Day hike without gear from Payzant Creek to Botanical Beach Trailhead and back to Payzant Creek: 14 km (4-6 hours)

Day 4B – Payzant Creek to Little Kuitshe Creek: 7 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 5 – Little Kuitshe Creek to Chin Beach: 12 km (4-6 hours)

Day 6 – Chin Beach to Bear Beach: 11.4 km (4-6 hours)

Day 7 – Bear Beach to China Beach Trailhead: 9.6 km (2.5-4.25 hours)

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So that’s my section-by-section breakdown of the Juan de Fuca Trail and all the info you need to choose your Juan de Fuca Trail itinerary. For your first time, I recommend the standard 4-Day Juan de Fuca Trail Itinerary. If you’re planning your hike and have questions, let me know in the comments. I’d love to help.

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MORE VANCOUVER ISLAND POSTS:

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Juan De Fuca Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island https://dawnoutdoors.com/juan-de-fuca-trail/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/juan-de-fuca-trail/#comments Fri, 03 Dec 2021 22:40:08 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=12193 Heads up: The Juan de Fuca Trail is closed in summer 2025 due to significant storm damage. It is not possible to hike the entire trail, but you can visit Mystic Beach and East Sombrio Beach. The Juan de Fuca Trail is a multi-day hike along the west coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, …

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Heads up: The Juan de Fuca Trail is closed in summer 2025 due to significant storm damage. It is not possible to hike the entire trail, but you can visit Mystic Beach and East Sombrio Beach.

The Juan de Fuca Trail is a multi-day hike along the west coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. It is a challenging backpacking trip through the rainforest and across beaches. Along its 47 kilometre length you will experience lots of gorgeous scenery, old-growth trees, sandy beaches, and mud.

I hiked the Juan de Fuca Trail in twice (to research my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island), so I’ve put together a full Juan de Fuca Trail guide for you. It includes:

  • how to get to the Juan de Fuca Trail, including driving directions and info for booking the shuttle bus
  • how much it costs to hike the Juan de Fuca Trail
  • key Juan de Fuca Trail safety information on wildlife, tides, and drinking water
  • information on the history and indigenous context of the Juan de Fuca Trail

WANT MORE JUAN DE FUCA TRAIL INFO? Check out these posts:

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Juan de Fuca Trail Quick Facts

Location: The southwest coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. The closest towns are Port Renfrew and Sooke.

Distance: Officially 47 kilometres, but probably a little bit more.

Difficulty: Challenging

Time: 3-5 days

Cost: $30 + transportation

Best Time to Go: May to September (but the trail is open year-round and is on my list of the best spring backpacking trips in BC)

Juan de Fuca Trail Description

Officially known as the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, the Juan de Fuca Trail (JDF) is a 47 kilometre long coastal trail that runs along the southwest coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. It is located just south of the West Coast Trail.

It is a rugged backcountry route that travels up and down hills through dense rainforest and along sections of beach. The Juan de Fuca hike has steep terrain and lots of rain, so it can be very muddy with lots of technical and treacherous trail.

READ NEXT: Juan de Fuca Trail Section-by-Section Overview

Near Botanical Beach
Rocks near Botanical Beach

How Long is the Juan de Fuca Trail?

The official length of the Juan de Fuca Trail is 47 kilometres. That is the distance from the eastern trailhead at China Beach to the western trailhead at Botanical Beach. However, my GPS recorded a total distance of about 50.7km.

As well, the shuttle bus stop in Port Renfrew is 3.2 km away from the Botanical Beach trailhead, so that can add extra distance to your hike.

How Difficult is the Juan de Fuca Trail?

The Juan de Fuca Trail is fairly challenging. Compared to other coastal trails in BC like the West Coast Trail or the North Coast Trail, it has lots of hills, which are a workout. In total, you will climb about 1,400m of elevation gain, even though you are never far from the coast.

There are not as many beach sections as on some other coastal trails. However, the beaches are mostly easy walking.

It also has some sections of very technical terrain with lots of slippery tree roots and mud pits. In many sections, the aging infrastructure has not been repaired, making travel across broken staircases and boardwalks dangerous.

But it also has long sections of well-maintained inland trail that are very easy to walk.

In general, I think the Juan de Fuca Trail is much easier than the North Coast Trail. It about the same difficulty the West Coast Trail. Some hikers find in harder than the WCT due to the elevation gain and the broken infrastructure. I think that the mud bogs and ladders of the WCT make the JDF stack up evenly against it, but of course, everyone has their own opinion.

The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail is known for its muddy sections, but in my experience, it is not as muddy as the West Coast Trail and definitely not as muddy as the North Coast Trail.

Storms change the JDF each year, adding to the difficulty. Check the BC Parks website before you go for the latest conditions and closures.

Forest trail on the Juan de Fuca Trail
Forested trail between Chin Beach and Bear Beach

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Best Time to Hike the Juan de Fuca Trail

The hike is open year-round. However, the best months to hike the Juan de Fuca Trail are May through September since those months are warmer and have less rain.

April and October can also have pockets of good weather, which is why the JDF is one of the best spring backpacking trips in British Columbia. The winter months are often wet, cold, and stormy, but a few people do hike the trail between November and March.

If you plan to use the shuttle bus (see info below), keep in mind that it only runs between May and September.

The trail is very prone to storm damage and in washouts and downed trees are common, especially in the fall, winter, and spring. The trail is often closed for repairs in the spring so you may have to wait until late May for BC Parks crews to reopen it.

If possible, try to avoid hiking the Juan de Fuca Trail on long weekends as it can become very crowded and you will have a hard time finding a place to camp. July and August are by far the busiest months.

How Many Days is the Juan de Fuca Trail?

Most people take between 3 and 5 days to hike the Juan de Fuca Trail. I have hiked twice taking 5 days the first time and 4 the second time. I think that 4 days is the right amount of time for most people.

READ NEXT: Juan de Fuca Trail 4-Day Itinerary and More Itinerary Options

Which Direction to Hike the Juan de Fuca Trail?

The JDF starts and ends at Botanical Beach near Port Renfrew and at China Beach near Sooke. The trail runs roughly from Botanical Beach in the northwest to China Beach in the southeast.

BC Parks refers to the trail as running east to west so that is how I will describe it in this post. However, you may find other info online referring to Botanical Beach in the north and China Beach in the south.

There is no preferred direction to hike the Juan de Fuca Trail, and the hikers I surveyed were split nearly 50/50 on which direction they preferred. Both times I hiked the Juan de Fuca, we started in the west at Botanical Beach.

The hardest part of the trail is in the middle, so unlike the West Coast Trail, there isn’t an “easier” or a “more difficult” trailhead.

Which direction you hike the trail may depend on whether or not you use the Juan de Fuca bus service. I prefer to take the shuttle first, then hike back to my car. The easiest way to do that is to park at the eastern trailhead, get the shuttle in the morning, then hike the Juan de Fuca from west to east.

You can also complete half of the trail by starting at Sombrio Beach, roughly in the middle.

Juan de Fuca Permits

Unlike the West Coast Trail, the Juan de Fuca trail does not have a reservation system. All campsites are first-come, first-served and there is no limit to how many hikers can be on the trail.

However, you must purchase a backcountry camping permit for $10/person/night. You can buy a permit on the BC Parks website up to 2 weeks before your trip. You can also bring cash and pay at the trailhead.

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

How Much Does the Juan de Fuca Trail Cost?

The short answer: The Juan de Fuca Trail costs about $30 per person + transportation

The long answer: It depends. Likely $60-135.

The main factor affecting cost is the number of nights you spend on the trail. Most hikers will spend three nights on the trail at $10 per night, for a total of $30/person.

The other factor is the shuttle bus. If you can arrange your own transportation to and from both trailheads, you won’t have any other expenses. But if you take the shuttle between trailheads or to and from Victoria, you will have extra expenses.

For example, the cheapest option is to drive yourself to one trailhead, then take the shuttle bus to the other. The fare for bus rides between China Beach and Port Renfrew is $30/person.

However, if you want to take the Juan de Fuca bus from Victoria to China Beach, and then from Port Renfrew back to Victoria, the fare is $105/person.

See the shuttle bus section below for more details.

View from the Loss Creek Suspension Bridge on the Juan de Fuca Trail
View from the Loss Creek Suspension Bridge

How to Get to the Juan de Fuca Trail

Getting to the JDF and between trailheads is fairly easy. You can drive yourself, take the Juan de Fuca Trail shuttle bus, or hire a taxi. Info on each of those options is below. Many hikers report that hitchhiking is also easy, although it is technically illegal.

If you drive yourself, plan to spend some extra time exploring the area. The route to the trailheads is on the Pacific Marine Circle Route, one of the best road trips on Vancouver Island.

READ NEXT: The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route

Driving Directions to the China Beach Trailhead

From Victoria, take Highway 1 west, then follow Highway 14 west through Sooke. A few minutes after the town of Jordan River, pass the entrance to the China Beach campground. Make your next left into the parking lot, following signs for the China Beach Day Use Area.

Driving Directions to the Sombrio Beach Trailhead

From Victoria, take Highway 1 west, then follow Highway 14 west. A few minutes after you pass the China beach turn off, look for signs for the Sombrio Beach trailhead on your left. This steep gravel road descends to the trailhead over 2km. It can be very rough so go slow.

Note that this road may be closed on long weekends to prevent partying at Sombrio Beach. There is no parking on the highway, but you can get dropped off and walk down the road into the park.

Driving Directions to Parkinson Creek Trailhead

From Victoria, take Highway 1 west, then follow Highway 14 west. A few minutes after you pass the Sombrio Beach turn off, look for signs for the Parkinson Creek trailhead on your left. This gravel road descends to the trailhead over 3km. It is usually in good condition.

Driving Directions to the Botanical Beach Trailhead

From Victoria, take Highway 1 west, then follow Highway 14 west to the end of the highway near the Port Renfrew pub. Turn left onto Cerantes Road and follow it to its end at the Botanical Beach trailhead 3.2 km away.

From Nanaimo, take Highway 1 south, then highway 18 west to Lake Cowichan. In Lake Cowichan, take South Shore Road through town, then turn left on Pacific Marine Road. Follow it for 50 km, then turn left onto Deering Road and take that into Port Renfrew. Turn right on Highway 14 (Parkinson Road) and follow it to the Port Renfrew pub. Turn left onto Cerantes Road and follow it to its end at the Botanical Beach trailhead.

Trailhead Parking

All of the official trailheads have free parking, but unfortunately, break-ins are common. Do not leave anything of value in your vehicle. The parking lots can get very full on long weekends.

Juan de Fuca Trail Bus

The West Coast Trail Express runs a shuttle bus service between Victoria and all trailheads for the Juan de Fuca Trail. (It passes by the Juan de Fuca on the way to the West Coast Trail and serves both trails on each run.) Since it’s so easy to get to the Juan de Fuca Trail, it’s on my list of the best car-free backpacking trips in BC.

It runs once a day in each direction. In the morning it goes from Victoria in the southeast to Bamfield in the northwest, passing the JDF trailheads between 8 and 9am. In the afternoon, it runs from Bamfield back to Victoria, passing the Juan de Fuca trailheads between 5:45 and 6:45pm. See their website for the latest schedule.

You can take the bus round-trip from Victoria to any trailhead, and back again. Or you can drive yourself to one trailhead and catch the Juan de Fuca Trail shuttle bus to another trailhead.

All shuttle bus stops are on the highway. At China Beach, it’s a 200m walk from the trailhead to the highway. Sombrio Beach is a 2km walk from the highway. At Parkinson Creek, it’s a 3km walk. Botanical Beach is a 3.2km walk from the highway.

Taxi to the Juan de Fuca Trail

If the trail bus schedule doesn’t work for you or you want to hike the trail in the winter when the shuttle isn’t running, you can take a taxi to the trailhead with Orange Taxi in Sooke.

Juan de Fuca Trail Maps and Books

For the most part, navigation on the Juan de Fuca Trail is very easy. There are signs at key intersections and numbered kilometre posts along the way to mark your progress.

Kilometre marker on the Juan de Fuca Trail

BC Parks publishes a good Juan de Fuca Trail map that is helpful to have on the trail. It has info on distances between landmarks as well as the locations of sections of beach that are cut off a high tide. Print it out and bring it with you.

Juan de Fuca Trail map from BC Parks

The map also assigns a difficulty rating to each section. However, those difficulty ratings were developed when the trail was newly constructed. Over the years erosion and failing infrastructure have changed the character of the trail and I don’t think the difficulty ratings are still accurate. My section-by-section overview has my assessment of current difficulty ratings.

READ NEXT: Juan de Fuca Trail Section-by-Section Overview

On my trip, I also used the Gaia GPS app. It was really helpful for tracking our progress, especially during the long inland sections that seemed to go by really slowly. (Psst! Want to save 20% off a premium Gaia annual membership, which includes the maps I used on my trip? Use this link.)

You can find more information about the Juan de Fuca hike in several books. The most detailed one is Giant Cedars, White Sands by Donald C. Mills. It is out of print and a bit dated, but it’s still a good resource. My book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island also has a Juan de Fuca Trail section.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover
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What to Pack for the Juan de Fuca Trail

You will need to be totally self-sufficient on the JDF and carry in everything you will need for your trip. The last places to buy supplies are Sooke near the eastern trailhead and Port Renfrew near the western trailhead.

To avoid carrying a stupidly heavy pack, choose lightweight hiking gear rather than heavy conventional camping gear. The lighter you can get your pack, the happier you will be. In general, aim for a pack weight that is 1/3 to 1/4 of your body weight or less. Read my tips for reducing your pack weight.

The weather on the coast is also often very wet so be sure to pack accordingly.

For lots more information, check out my West Coast Trail packing list, since the gear list is identical to what you’ll need to pack for a Juan de Fuca Trail hike. It’s a complete guide to everything you need to bring including specific gear recommendations from my hikes.

READ NEXT: West Coast Trail Packing List

Camping on the Juan de Fuca Trail

There are six official campgrounds on the Juan de Fuca Trail. They all have:

  • pit toilet(s)
  • access to fresh drinking water from a nearby creek
  • metal food storage locker(s)
  • cleared campsites in the forest AND/OR campsites on the beach sand (Be sure to pitch your tent WELL above the high tide line.)

My Section-by-Section Overview has full details on each campground.

All campsites are first-come, first-served. At busy times of the year, some of the campgrounds can get full. As well, some campgrounds have very little food locker space so store your food early or be prepared to hang it.

You are not allowed to camp elsewhere along the trail, but in practice, this would be close to impossible anyway. The forest is thick with few flat clearings. And besides the designated beach campsites, most other beaches are inundated with water at high tide.

READ NEXT: Juan de Fuca Section-by-Section Overview

Drinking-Water Sources on the Juan de Fuca Trail

Unlike some other coastal trails in BC, such as the North Coast Trail, there are plenty of freshwater sources along the Juan de Fuca Trail. But all of the water flows down from the highway and logging operations up-slope, so you should treat all water by purifying, filtering, or boiling it.

You will reach a creek every few kilometres (and in some areas much more often than that). However, some are down in deep gullies and hard to access.

Tides on the Juan de Fuca Trail

You will need to bring a tide table and pay attention to the tides on the Juan de Fuca Trail. Use the Port Renfrew tide table available from Fisheries and Oceans Canada. Make sure you print out the predicted tide height for each hour of the day. It’s much more helpful than just using the daily highs and lows.

There are a few tidal obstacles on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail where the beach is impassable at high tides. The main tidal obstacles are located at Bear Beach, Chin Beach, and Sombrio Beach.

When hiking beach sections, watch for coloured fishing buoys hanging in the trees. They mark the exits from the beach onto the forest trail. For full details, see my section-by-section Juan de Fuca Trail hike overview.

You will also want to refer to tide tables when you camp on the beach to ensure that you pitch your tent well above the high tide line. Look at the line of seaweed on the beach to estimate how high the last tide came up.

Buoys mark tidal access points on the Juan de Fuca Trail
Colourful buoys mark a beach exit near KM41

Juan de Fuca Trail Weather

Before your trip, check the weather forecasts for Port Renfrew and Jordan River, the two communities closest to the trail.

June, July, August, and September are the warmest months on the Juan de Fuca Trail with lows of 11-13°C and highs of 18-22°C. Winter temperatures between November and April are typically 3-12°C.

July is the driest month, with about 59mm of rain on average. August (85mm) and June (103mm) are also fairly dry. The spring and fall months can also have periods of good weather, but are wetter – May sees about 154mm of rain and September gets 149mm. The winter months are very wet with between 246 and 552mm falling each month between October and April.

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

How to Stay Safe on the Juan de Fuca Trail

The JDF tackles some pretty rugged terrain. And the trail is in a remote area where getting help takes time. Make sure you are physically and mentally prepared. Take a first aid kit.

Consider bringing a satellite messenger or marine radio because there is no cell reception. I brought my Garmin inReach Mini on my 2021 Juan de Fuca hike. Thankfully we didn’t need it, but I did use it on the North Coast Trail to assist a pair of hikers who were unprepared for the difficulty of the terrain.

Leave a trip plan at home with a friend or family member. That way someone knows where you are going and when you expect to be back.

Be prepared to turn back or stop and make camp if the weather gets too bad or you are having difficulty with the hike. If you keep pushing forward, you may just make your situation worse by injuring yourself. Most injuries on the trail happen when the weather is bad or hikers are tired. (Or both!)

Take extra time on stairs, boardwalks, and bridges. Watch your step on any wooden structure – they can be REALLY slippery or have exposed nails. And in many places they are rotting and can collapse.

Use caution at cliff edges. There was a fatality on the clifftops near Bear Beach in 2004.

Be careful crossing streams. Make sure they aren’t flooding and if possible, cross at low tide.

Keep your tide table handy and consult it along with your map whenever you choose a beach route. Only take the official marked beach routes – other routes have dangerous cliffs and surge channels.

Step carefully on beaches. Many have slick sandstone that can be very slippery. Others have lots of round rocks where it is easy to twist your ankle.

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Wildlife on the Juan de Fuca Trail

The Juan de Fuca Trail hike is a remote wilderness area so it’s home to lots of wildlife. You might encounter a black bear, wolf, or cougar. On my trips I saw lots of bear scat and a few bears. I’ve heard reports that in some years there have been habituated bears hanging around some of the campgrounds, but I didn’t experienced that.

To minimize the risk of a negative encounter, hike in groups, make lots of noise, and carry bear spray just in case. At campgrounds, store your food and toiletries in the bear bins and camp well away from your cooking area.

READ NEXT: Bear Safety for Hikers, Campers and Backpackers

Mice can also be a problem at many campgrounds so don’t keep anything in your pack or tent.

There is also lots of marine life just offshore along the JDF. There are lots of curious seals and sea lions surfacing along the beaches and you can even spot whales and porpoises.

My husband uses a compact GoSky Titan monocular that he found on Amazon. It’s pretty light and not too expensive, but it still has 12×50 magnification.

Juan de Fuca Trail Rules

Dogs: BC Parks allows dogs on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail as long as they are on a leash. However, they also caution that the backcountry is not suitable for dogs due to wildlife issues. The trail includes lots of steep and scrambly terrain, so it’s best for experienced dogs with responsible owners only.

Beachcombing: You aren’t allowed to take home anything natural from the trail. That includes shells, rocks, sand, wood, etc. However, you are encouraged to take home anything man-made, such as fishing floats.

Smoking, vaping, and cannabis: Smoking tobacco and cannabis, using e-cigarettes, and vaping are not permitted on the Juan de Fuca Trail or in any BC Park.

Drones: Drones are not allowed on the Juan de Fuca Trail or in any BC Parks without a specific permit, issued only to licenced drone pilots.

Campfires: Campfires are allowed on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail on the beach below the high tide line as long as there is no fire ban for that part of Vancouver Island. Fires are not allowed at any of the forest campsites. (Check the BC Fire Ban website before you go. The JDF is in the Coastal Region.)

Build your campfire below the high tide line. Make a small fire and don’t burn big logs so that there is lots of wood left for everyone. Recently I learned that burning driftwood can create toxic smoke from the salt build-up in the logs. So you may want to skip the campfire entirely.

When you are done, use water to douse your fire to make sure it is completely out. Don’t smother your fire with sand. It can continue to smoulder under the sand and can injure people. During my 2020 trip to Cape Scott, a 12-year-old boy had to be evacuated by helicopter after he burned his foot by stepping in embers from an old campfire!

Boardwalk on the Juan de Fuca Trail
Boardwalk near Botanical Beach

Juan de Fuca Trail Hiking Tips

Coastal hiking and backpacking are a lot different than hiking in the forest or mountains. Head on over to my coastal hiking tips post. After over 15 coastal hiking trips to beaches in British Columbia and Washington, I’ve got tons of coastal hiking pointers for you… including how to cope with the EPIC MUD!

READ NEXT: Coastal Hiking Tips: Advice for Beach Backpacking

Indigenous Context on the Juan de Fuca Trail

Indigenous people have lived in this area of Vancouver Island along the present-day Juan de Fuca Trail since time immemorial. The area is in the traditional territory of the Pacheedaht people. The word “Pacheedaht” translates to “Children of the Sea Foam”.

Before European colonization, the Pacheedaht had several village sites in the area including Qwa:qłis, a seasonal village at what is today known as Sombrio Beach. The location benefited from a salmon-bearing river with lots of access to ocean fishing and edible plants.

There were also Pacheedaht villages at Botanical Beach (łi:xwa:p) and China Beach (Tł’ehib).

Juan de Fuca Trail History

The Indigenous Pacheedaht people have lived along the coast since time immemorial. Juan de Fuca (born Apostolos Valerianos), a Greek explorer working for the Spanish sailed up the coast from Mexico in 1592 and was likely the first European to visit the area. In 1787 a British expedition officially named the Strait after Juan de Fuca.

European ships frequently wrecked in this area in the late 1800s thanks to the fog and rough conditions. This part of the coast became known as the “Graveyard of the Pacific”.

In 1899 a telegraph line was constructed between Bamfield and Victoria. The West Coast Trail and Juan de Fuca Trail both have their origins as a path to service the line.

By the 1960s a small squatter community of surfers lived in shacks at Sombrio Beach. As the West Coast Trail became more popular in the late 1970s and 80s, local hikers started exploring other areas of the coast. Members of the Victoria Sierra Club lobbied to have the area around the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail protected.

At the time, extensive logging was occurring and the club brought several lawsuits to try to stop it. In the 1990s the provincial government acquired the land. It was formally declared a park in 1995 as part of the legacy around the 1994 Commonwealth Games in Victoria.

While a few repairs have been completed in the intervening years, most of the park’s wooden infrastructure is from the late 1990s and is showing its age.

Where to Stay Near the Juan de Fuca Trail

China Beach Campground: Forested campground in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park a few minutes from the China Beach trailhead with 79 campsites, most of which you can reserve. The campground is open from mid-May to early September. More info

Prestige Oceanfront Resort: Waterfront resort hotel with great views of Sooke Harbour. It’s a 40-minute drive to the China Beach Trailhead. Check prices

Wild Renfrew Seaside Cottages: Gorgeous cabins with porches that are steps from the surf in ‘downtown’ Port Renfrew. I loved my stay here a few years ago. It’s a 5-minute drive to Botanical Beach Trailhead. Check prices

Trailhead Resort: Budget hiker-friendly accommodations near ‘downtown’ Port Renfrew and a 5-minute drive to Botanical Beach Trailhead. Check prices

Pacheedaht Campground: Beautiful campground with beach and ocean sites a few minutes from Port Renfrew and a 15-minute drive from the Botanical Beach Trailhead. More info: (250) 647-0090

Cabins at Wild Renfrew
Photo via Wild Renfrew
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The Juan de Fuca Trail is a great alternative to the West Coast Trail or the North Coast Trail since it is much easier to get to, doesn’t require reservations, and is much less expensive. It also has some of the best old-growth coastal forests you can visit in BC along with beautiful coastal scenery.

This post and its companion, the section-by-section overview of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, should give you all the info you need to have a safe and fun hike. If you have questions about the Juan de Fuca Trail, ask them in the comments. I’d love to help!

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READ NEXT:

MORE VANCOUVER ISLAND BACKPACKING TRIPS POSTS:

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North Coast Trail Itinerary and Section-By-Section Overview https://dawnoutdoors.com/north-coast-trail-itinerary/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/north-coast-trail-itinerary/#comments Wed, 06 Oct 2021 17:49:57 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=11109 The North Coast Trail is a challenging 43km multi-day backpacking trip along the northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia. I hiked the trail twice (to research my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island). I’ve put together a section-by-section overview of the North Coast Trail to give you a taste of the trail and help …

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The North Coast Trail is a challenging 43km multi-day backpacking trip along the northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia. I hiked the trail twice (to research my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island).

I’ve put together a section-by-section overview of the North Coast Trail to give you a taste of the trail and help you get prepped for your trip. It’s got info on distances, difficult, hiking times, and things you won’t want to miss for each section. There are also loads of photos! I also have step-by-step North Coast Trail itineraries for the standard 6-day trip, plus lots more shorter and longer itinerary options.

Use this North Coast Trail itinerary and section-by-section overview to help you plan your trip. It includes:

  • details on what each section is like including distances, time to complete, and must-sees
  • info on each campsite and trailhead
  • itinerary for a standard 6-day trip plus seven more itinerary options

WANT MORE NORTH COAST TRAIL INFO? Check out these posts:

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Key Distances on the North Coast Trail

A Quick Note: I’ve chosen to layout this guide from east to west because most hikers travel in the trail in that direction. As anyone who has hiked the trail with GPS can tell you, the distances that BC Parks gives for each section can be much longer than hikers will experience. So for each North Coast Trail section below, I’ve given the “official distance”. You may find that you travel much further than the official distance!

KMLocation
0Shushartie Bay Trailhead and Camp
8.1Skinner Creek Camp
11Nahwitti River Camp
14.5Tripod Rock Tidal Obstacle
16Cape Sutil Camp
23.8Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) Camp
35.6Laura Creek Camp
43.1Nissen Bight Camp
43.2Fisherman Bay
44.9Nissen Bight/Cape Scott Trail junction
48.7Fisherman River Camp
55Eric Lake Camp
58Cape Scott Trailhead parking lot

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

Shushartie Bay Trailhead and Camp

The Shushartie Bay Trailhead is on the west side of Shushartie Bay. The only way to reach the trailhead is by boat. There is no dock. The water taxi operator will nose the boat against a large rock and hikers will clamber directly onto the shore. The rocks are covered in barnacles and slippery seaweed, so it’s an exciting start to the trail. See the North Coast Trail Water Taxi section of my North Coast Trail Guide for details.

North Coast Trail water taxi drop off at Shushartie Bay. The first day of a North Coast Trail itinerary
Water taxi drop off at Shushartie BAy

The small Shushartie Bay Camp is located two minutes up the trail from the trailhead. It is seldom used but is helpful in an emergency. It has three tent pads, a pit toilet, and a food cache. The campsite is set into a steep slope in dark forest.

There is no official water source here, but I’ve heard that you can get water by heading northwest along the coast at low tide for 15 minutes to the second of two beaches. Since water is so hard to access here, it’s best to arrive on the water taxi with full bottles.

Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek

Official Distance: 8.1 km

Time: 6-7 hours

Highlights: Upland bog with lots of boardwalk and mud

Actual Distance: 9.6 km

Difficulty: Challenging

The first section of trail is entirely inland – you won’t see the ocean again until you emerge at Skinner Creek. Travel through this section can be very slow due to a steep initial ascent and some very technical trail. Give yourself lots of time. While you will be walking through mud bog, there are no good creeks for water until Skinner Creek.

From the trailhead sign, you’ll climb steeply uphill past the Shushartie Bay Camp, using a few fixed rope handlines to help you. The first kilometre is the steepest, which will be further exacerbated by full backpacks.

Ascending a steep slope using a rope on the North Coast Trail
One of the first ropes near the Shushartie Bay trailhead

The grade eases after about one kilometre as you begin a more gentle ascent. You have reached the upland bog portion of the trail with open grassy meadows, stunted trees, and lots of standing, murky water. You can look forward to fast travel on many sections of weathered gray boardwalk.

Unfortunately, travel is much slower where there is no boardwalk as wet ground creates huge mud pits, some of which might just be bottomless. Use trekking poles to probe below the surface to find tree roots, discarded planks, and rocks to stand on. If possible, avoid braiding the trail to prevent further damage to this unique ecosystem.

Reach the trail’s highpoint at a lofty 245 metres about 2.5km from the trailhead. The trail continues to alternate between boardwalks and deep mud as it heads slowly downhill towards the coast. Watch for a sign on your right near the 4 km mark announcing the halfway point. Past here, the trail gets slightly easier, even though the mud is still relentless.

About 8km from the trailhead you’ll walk the last boardwalk and start your descent into coastal forest. As you begin to hear the ocean, head downhill on a staircase to Skinner Creek. Follow the creekbed to the beach, ducking under fallen logs along the way. (Look for flagging to choose the best route.)

Skinner Creek Camp

The Skinner Creek Camp is a welcome sight after the struggle through the inland section. It’s a wide sand and pebble beach with views of Hope Island across Goletas Channel. At night, look for the blinking navigation light on Godkin Point.

There is a small clearing in the forest on the way to the outhouse that will hold one tent. Otherwise, the best camping is on the beach. The sandbars on either side of the creek make great campsites. You can also camp above the high tide line, although there are not as many flat spots.

The food cache and outhouse are located down a short trail on the west side of the creek. Collect drinking water from the creek, but be sure to go upstream to avoid contamination from the many seagulls.

Skinner Creek to Nahwitti River

Official Distance: 2.9 km

Time: 1-1.5 hours

Highlights: Tidal obstacle, beach hiking

Actual Distance: 2.5 km

Difficulty: Moderate

Leaving Skinner Creek you can walk the first kilometre on the beach if the tide is in your favour. At high tides (over about 2.8 metres) the beach is inaccessible as a tidal obstacle and you’ll have to take a rough forest route that heads uphill behind the outhouse. Apparently, the forest trail passes the remains of an old settler cabin, but I’ve never taken that route so I haven’t visited it.

Hikers on the beach leaving Skinner Creek
Leaving Skinner Creek via the beach route

At the end of Skinner Beach look for fishing buoys marking the steep, rope-assisted climb into the forest. The next section rambles through the forest and incorporates a few sections of old settler’s corduroy road, made from stacking logs parallel to each other. Thanks to the long-ago labours of the settlers, this section isn’t too muddy.

The trail emerges from the forest onto a gravel beach. Walk down the beach for about half a kilometre to reach the Nahwitti River Camp, just east of the river mouth. On my most recent trip, we were treated to the sight of humpback whales and sea otters feeding in the kelp beds just offshore. The river estuary is also a common place to see bears and seabirds.

Nahwitti River Camp

If you caught an early water taxi and are a strong hiker, Nahwitti River Camp is a good option for your first night. It tends to be much quieter than Skinner Creek so you might have it to yourself. There are four tent pads in the forest behind the beach along with an outhouse and food cache. You can also camp on the beach but it may be too sloped to be comfortable.

Hiker on the beach near Nahwitti River
Walking the beach on the way to Nahwitti River. The campsite is in the trees straight ahead of the hiker.

To find drinking water, follow the trail into the forest for a few minutes to the banks of the Nahwitti River. Try to get water at low tide to avoid saltwater. Do not collect water near the river mouth since it is too salty.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

Nahwitti River to Cape Sutil

Official Distance: 5 km

Time: 3-4 hours

Highlights: Cable car, tidal obstacle, steep headlands

Actual Distance: 6.5 km

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Leaving Nahwitti River Camp, the first kilometre is an easy walk through the forest inland along the east bank of the Nahwitti River. Cross the river using the cable car, the first of two on the route. After the cable car, the trail follows the west bank of the Nahwitti River for a few minutes before climbing back up into the forest. The next few kilometres take you up and over a 120m-high-hill.

About 4km from Nahwitti River Camp you’ll start to hear the ocean again as you descend over 200 wooden stairs at Long Leg Hill and emerge onto pebbly Tripod Beach. The cliffs at the west side of the beach are impassable at tides above about 2.5 metres and there is no inland trail. Be sure to time your hike well or else you could be stuck waiting here for hours. Thankfully when we had to wait for the tides on my most recent trip it was a beautiful sunny day and we had a great time playing cards! (See my North Coast Trail Guide for info on tide tables for the North Coast Trail.)

Tripod beach tidal obstacle on the North Coast Trail. A key point on a North Coast Trail itinerary
The impassable cliffs at Tripod Beach. We waited for the tide to go down, then walked past in sandals.

If you do get stuck on the beach overnight there is room for one or two tents above the high tide mark and a creek in the centre of the beach for drinking water. There is no food cache here so be prepared to hang your food. There is also no outhouse so use Leave No Trace practices if you go to the bathroom.

Once you are past the cliffs, take a minute to ogle at the unique three-legged basalt Tripod rock that gives the beach its name. The remainder of the hike to Cape Sutil is very challenging as you ascend steep headlands with fixed ropes, then plunge back down to pocket beaches before doing it all again. Take your time and be careful on the ropes and muddy slopes. A fall here could mean serious injury.

At low tides, you may be able to skirt around some of the headlands on the beach, but use caution as many of them have very slippery cobblestones.

After the final headland, you’ll break out onto a beautiful sandy beach. Walk a few hundred meters to the Cape Sutil Camp at the west end of the beach.

Cape Sutil Camp

The campsite at Cape Sutil is located at the west end of the sandy beach, which is great for swimming. Cape Sutil is the northernmost point on Vancouver Island, but unfortunately, you cannot visit it since it is inside the Nahwitti First Nations reserve and off-limits to visitors. Please be respectful of this indigenous site. See the Indigenous context section of my North Coast Trail guide or the excellent book, Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail by Maria I. Bremner for more information. You can follow a short trail over a headland to the next beach where the water taxi lands, but do not proceed further.

There are lots of places to camp along the beach above the high tide line, but the best tent spots are towards the west end of the beach. There is a pit toilet and bear cache a few minutes along the main trail leading west from the beach. There is also another bear cache behind the beach about 1/3 of the way down from the end. It’s marked with a small sign that can be easy to miss.

The water source at this beach is not always obvious. Look for buoys or flagging about halfway down the beach. Follow a short trail into the forest to access a small pool. In early season or after heavy rains, the creek may also flow directly onto the beach.

There is also a BC Parks yurt near the west end of the beach. The yurt used to open to the public in the winter, but that is no longer the case.

Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight)

Official Distance: 7.8 km

Time: 4-5 hours

Highlights: beach walking, steep headlands

Actual Distance: 8.4 km

Difficulty: Challenging

The route between Cape Sutil and Shuttleworth Bight is mostly on the beach, but there are also lots of short and difficult inland forest sections. The trail leaving Cape Sutil cuts across the neck of the cape for about half a kilometre before emerging on the first of many steep gravel beaches. Follow hanging buoys into the forest at the end of the beach to find the 100-metre-long trail to the next beach.

This cycle repeats a few more times: walk through a pocket cove, then through the forest. Some of the beach sections have inland trail alternatives you can use at high tide, but they tend to be quite overgrown. About 2km from Cape Sutil, make sure you take the last exit from the beach into the forest as the coast past here is impassable. All of the exits from the beach are steep, with ropes to help you up the slope.

Follow the trail up into the forest. You’ll be inland for about 700m as you navigate a steep climb and lots of mud. Next, you’ll pop out into a pocket cove, then head back into the forest for about 200m. After that, you have a kilometre-long stretch of beach. This stretch is like many you will encounter today: steeply pitched with lots of driftwood and seaweed above the storm tide line.

The beach ends with a few meters of forest walking to round a point about 3.5km from Cape Sutil. After that, follow buoys across several rocky headlands and through pocket coves for another few kilometres. The forest trails are often steep and challenging, and the beach walking is not easy, but the scenery is beautiful.

About 5.5km from Cape Sutil, you begin a long beach section. The remainder of your hike to Irony Creek on Shuttleworth Bight is on the beach, except for a few very short forest sections to get around rocky outcroppings. At around 7.5km you will round a point and enter Shuttleworth Bight. The eastern part of the bight has some small sandy coves, but push on to the broader expanse of sand on the east side and the excellent campsite at Irony Creek.

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Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) Camp

The Irony Creek Camp is the most beautiful campsite on the North Coast Trail. It’s set in the middle of sandy Shuttleworth Bight and makes a great place for a rest day if you choose to take one. The campsite is located on the west side of the creek, which provides great (if red-tinged) drinking water.

There are four tent pads, a toilet, and a bear cache in the forest just west of the creek. You’ll have to scramble over a big pile of driftwood to access them. There are also great beach campsites in the sand amongst the driftwood to the west.

Tents on the beach on the North Coast Trail
Camping at Irony Creek on Shuttleworth Bight

Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek

Official Distance: 11.8 km

Time: 5-6 hours

Highlights: beach walking, cable car, Wolftrack Beach

Actual Distance: 12.9 km

Difficulty: Challenging

Thankfully, the section from Irony Creek to Laura Creek is mostly on the beach. However, most of the beaches have fairly tricky footing with lots of cobblestones, driftwood, seaweed, and steep angles. For the easiest walking, look for a faint boot-beaten path at the high tide line.

Use caution in this section as it sees a LOT of bear activity. On our most recent hike we spotted 39!!! piles of fresh bear scat on this stretch and saw three bears. All of the other hikers we met had numerous bear encounters here too. (Read my bear safety tips for backpackers.)

Leaving the Irony Creek Camp, you’ll start with about 1.5 kilometres of easy walking across the sand of Shuttleworth Bight. Towards the end of the beach, follow floats to find the forest exit. The trail heads along the east bank of the Stranby River for a few hundred meters to the Stranby River cable car. Unfortunately, the water here is too salty to drink.

Hikers leaving Shuttleworth Bight on the North Coast Trail
Leaving Shuttleworth Bight

Cross the cable car and follow the trail for another 1.5 kilometres of relatively easy walking through the forest. Your path parallels the river but it is rarely visible. The next section connects numerous pocket coves with short overland trails in a two-kilometre-long stretch.

About 7 kilometres from Irony Creek you will round a headland as trail starts to head more southwest. You have arrived at a beautiful sandy beach, nicknamed Wolftrack Beach or Sunny Bay by many hikers. There is a small stream here and the flat sand makes this one of the most popular unofficial campsites on the trail. If you stay here, be sure you know how to construct a bear hang and go to the bathroom the Leave No Trace way.

Past Wolftrack Beach the beach walking gets a bit more tiring as the gravel beaches are often steeply slanted, making hiking uncomfortable. Be sure to pay attention to your feet as blisters are common on this type of terrain. (Read my tips for preventing and treating blisters.) If the tide is low, try walking on the sand or rock shelf near the surf as it is more level.

At the end of the beach, head back into the forest for a short trail section and a few more pocket coves. About 2km past Wolftrack beach, reach Christensen Point, marked with a cluster of hanging fishing floats. From here it’s a straight shot down the beach to Laura Creek. This section is non-technical beach walking along the gravel but can feel very tiring after a long day on the trail.

Laura Creek Camp

You’ll arrive at Laura Creek first, your drinking water source. There are a few small campsites on the beach on the west side of the creek above the high tide line. However, use caution as they are very close to the surf at high tides and can get washed out if the creek floods.

Tents at Laura Creek camp on the North Coast Trail
Tents at Laura Creek close to the high tide tline

The main campsite with four tent platforms, a bear cache, and toilet is located in the forest about three hundred meters west. One of the tent platforms is located right next to the bear cache and in the middle of the path to the toilet and other sites, so it’s not ideal.

The sites are in dense old-growth forest and are well sheltered from the elements, but the forest can seem dark and oppressive. This is the only site on the trail with limited beach camping so you may want to arrive early to make sure you get a spot.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

Laura Creek to Nissen Bight

Official Distance: 7.5 km

Time: 2.5-4 hours

Highlights: inland forest, Dakota Creek log bridge, Laughing Loon Lake

Actual Distance: 7.9 km

Difficulty: Moderate

Today’s hike is mostly inland as it follows old settlers road up and around Nahwitti Cone. Start by walking 1 kilometre along the beach from Laura Creek, before following the buoys into the forest. The trail gains elevation immediately up a well-constructed staircase, then continues more gently uphill through muddy upland bog along the old settler’s trail.

About 2.5km from Laura Creek the trail crosses several branches of Dakota Creek, which is a good place to get drinking water. The main crossing is a massive log bridge, which is a fun photo-op. The next crossing doesn’t have a bridge so you will have to rock-hop across. Follow flagging tape for the best route.

Dakota Creek bridge

After the creek crossings, the trail heads uphill again to a bit of a plateau around Laughing Loon Lake around 4km from Laura Creek. The lake itself is very marshy so don’t plan to swim or get drinking water here. There are lots of good boardwalks through this section, but some epic mud bogs too.

Leaving the lakeshore, the trail begins a slow descent to the beach. This section is a bit more challenging with lots of mud, puddles, roots, and slippery sections. It can be slow going through here, which is even more frustrating since you are almost at the end! Once you can hear the ocean and are on the stairs, you’ll know you are close.

About 6.5km from Laura Creek, you will finally emerge on the beach at the east end of Nissen Bight. If you plan to camp here and need drinking water, follow a trail to the right just before the beach. If you are pressing on, walk along the wide sand beach for another kilometre to find the Nissen Bight Camp and the junction with the Cape Scott Trail.

Nissen Bight Camp

Nissen Bight is a wide expanse of sand. There are two main camping areas. The camping area at the east end of the beach has a new bear cache and outhouse. It is also close to the water source, which is on a short, marked side trail through the forest near the entrance to the North Coast Trail.

There is another, older camping area at the west end of the beach near the junction with the Cape Scott Trail. There are lots of established campsites amongst the driftwood above the high tideline. The food cache and outhouse are located a few meters down the trail to Cape Scott. However, if you camp here you’ll have to walk 1 km to the east end of the beach to find water.

Relaxing at Nissen Bight

Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trailhead

Official Distance: 15.4 km

Time: 5-6 hours

Highlights: old settler road, Eric Lake, old-growth forest, historic sites

Actual Distance: 15.4 km

Difficulty: Moderate

For a more detailed description of the Cape Scott Trail and the Fisherman River and Eric Lake campgrounds, see my Cape Scott Trail guide.

Leaving Nissen Bight, follow the wide trail through the salal. After about 2 minutes, a trail branches off to the right to Fisherman Bay, where you can get picked up by Cape Scott Water Taxi.

The remainder of the 2 kilometre walk to the junction with the Cape Scott Trail is along an old settler’s road that climbs gently uphill. In wet weather, it is muddy and slippery. At the junction, turn left to head to the parking lot. Turning right will take you to Nel’s Bight and Cape Scott, a worthwhile side trip that will add an extra day to your trip. (Read my Cape Scott Trail guide to decide if you want to combine it with your North Coast Trail hike.)

From the junction, the trail heads downhill in the forest before emerging in a bog. Unlike on the North Coast Trail, most of the bog sections on the Cape Scott section have boardwalk or good gravel underfoot, so the mud is not ever-present and never too deep.

About 4km from the junction reach the Fisherman River Camp and the new bridge over the river. On the other side, you’ll travel along a long, straight section of settler road with drainage ditches on either side, then high above the banks of St. Mary’s Creek through some rocky and rooty sections.

Around 12km from Nissen Bight, some boardwalk sections announce your arrival at Eric Lake Camp. The trail travels past an outhouse and numerous tent platforms. Follow a short spur trail to the lakeshore if you need a break.

Just past Eric Lake, the trail crosses a creek on a large fallen log, then heads into a long boardwalk section that can be slippery. About 13.5km from Nissen Bight reach the south end of Eric Lake and a spur trail leading to the lake.

The next section of trail is rough with badly eroded settler corduroy road heading slightly downhill. Go slowly here as you pick your way through mud and slippery terrain. Reach a junction at about 14.5km. Turn left to reach the parking lot. (Right goes to San Josef Bay.) The final kilometre is easy walking on a wide, well-maintained gravel trail.

Cape Scott Trailhead

The trailhead area has two parking lots, one up the hill from the other. If you are catching the Cape Scott Shuttle Bus, it picks up and drops off next to the trailhead. There is an outhouse and an info board with a map at the trailhead as well as a covered picnic shelter. There is also a ranger yurt in the trees a few meters down the trail.

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

North Coast Trail Itineraries

Standard 6-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary

This is the itinerary that most people who hike the North Coast Trail use.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 6 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km (5-6 hours)

Abbreviated 5-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary with Water Taxi Pick-up

If you want to skip the walk out to the Cape Scott Trailhead, this abbreviated 5-day itinerary is a good option. I chose this North Coast Trail itinerary on my most recent trip because I had already hiked the Cape Scott Trail four times.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Fisherman Bay water taxi pickup: 7.6 km (2.5-4 hours)

Fast 5-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary

This itinerary is suitable for strong hikers who have the stamina to spend most of the day on the trail.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti River: 11 km (7-8.5 hours)

Day 2 – Nahwitti River to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 12.8 km (7-9 hours)

Day 3 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 4 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 5 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km (5-6 hours)

Super-Fast 4-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary

Fast and experienced hikers could use this super-fast North Coast Trail itinerary. The last day is long, but doable since the terrain is much easier than the rest of the route.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti River: 11 km (7-8.5 hours)

Day 2 – Nahwitti River to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 12.8 km (7-9 hours)

Day 3 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 4 – Laura Creek to Cape Scott Trailhead: 22.9 km (7.5-10 hours)

Rough forest trail on the way to Laura Creek

Relaxed 7+ Day North Coast Trail Itinerary

This more relaxed itinerary 7-day North Coast Trail itinerary includes a rest day at Irony Creek. If you want to split up the trail even more you could add an extra night at Nahwitti River between Skinner Creek and Cape Sutil, or one at Wolftrack Beach (no facilities) between Irony Creek and Laura Creek. You could also break up the hike out to the Cape Scott Trailhead with an overnight at the Fisherman River Camp.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Rest Day at Irony Creek

Day 5 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 6 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 7 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km (5-6 hours)

4-Day Half North Coast Trail Itinerary

If you are worried about the rigors of the first two days of trail, or you want to prioritize beach scenery, you may want to consider doing half of the North Coast Trail. To do this, you’ll need to arrange a water taxi drop-off at Cape Sutil instead of at Shushartie Bay.

Day 1 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 2 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 3 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 4 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km (5-6 hours)

7-Day Cape Scott + North Coast Trail Itinerary

If you are already in the area, it makes sense to add an extra day to your North Coast Trail itinerary to go to Cape Scott. The beach at Nel’s Bight is one of the most beautiful campsites in the park and the day hike to the lighthouse is worthwhile. See my Cape Scott Trail Guide for all the details.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Nel’s Bight: 11.2 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 6 – Day hike to Cape Scott from Nel’s Bight: 13.6 km return (5 hours)

Day 7 – Nel’s Bight to Cape Scott Trailhead Parking Lot: 16.8 km (6 hours)

7-Day San Josef Bay + North Coast Trail Itinerary

Add an extra day to your North Coast Trail itinerary by adding on a day at San Josef Bay. The beautiful sandy beach and sea stacks make a great destination for your final day on the trail.

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km (6-7 hours)

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km (4-5.5 hours)

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km (4-5 hours)

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km (5-6 hours)

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km (2.5-4 hours)

Day 6 – Nissen Bight to San Josef Bay: 17 km (5.5-6.5 hours)

Day 7 – San Josef Bay to Cape Scott Trailhead Parking Lot: 2.5km (40 minutes)

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So that’s my section-by-section breakdown of the North Coast Trail and all the info you need to choose your North Coast Trail itinerary. For your first time, I recommend the standard 6-Day North Coast Trail Itinerary. If you’re planning your hike and have questions, let me know in the comments. I’d love to help.

READ NEXT:

MORE VANCOUVER ISLAND POSTS:

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North Coast Trail: Backpacking on Vancouver Island https://dawnoutdoors.com/north-coast-trail/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/north-coast-trail/#comments Wed, 06 Oct 2021 17:41:30 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=11092 The North Coast Trail is a multi-day wilderness hike across the very northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. It’s a challenging and remote hike through old-growth rainforest, along beaches, and across muddy coastal bogs. The 43-kilometre-long hike is difficult but beautiful. I hiked the trail twice (to research my book Backpacking on …

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The North Coast Trail is a multi-day wilderness hike across the very northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. It’s a challenging and remote hike through old-growth rainforest, along beaches, and across muddy coastal bogs. The 43-kilometre-long hike is difficult but beautiful.

I hiked the trail twice (to research my book Backpacking on Vancouver Island), so I’ve put together a full North Coast Trail guide for you. It includes:

  • how to get to the North Coast Trail, including driving directions and info for booking the water taxi and shuttle van
  • how much it costs to hike the North Coast Trail
  • key North Coast Trail safety information on wildlife, tides, and drinking water
  • information on the history and indigenous context of the North Coast Trail

WANT MORE NORTH COAST TRAIL INFO? Check out these posts:

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Quick Facts

Location: The northernmost tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada in Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Distance: Officially 43.1 km… but probably longer.

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Time: 5-6 days

Cost: About $320 per person. (See How Much Does the North Coast Trail Cost? below for a full breakdown).

Best Time to Go: June to September.

Trail Description

The NCT is a 43-kilometre-long coastal trail that runs across the northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada, and connects with the Cape Scott Trail. It is a rugged backcountry trail that travels along beaches, through dense rainforest, and across muddy bogs. The trail is in a very remote area with frequent rainstorms and technical terrain, so hiking it can be very challenging. For a detailed description, see my North Coast Trail Section-by-Section Overview.

How Long is the North Coast Trail?

The official length of the North Coast Trail is 43.1 kilometres.

That is the distance from the Shushartie Bay trailhead to the east end of Nissen Bight where the NCT meets the Cape Scott Trail. However, my GPS recorded a total distance of about 48.6 km.

As well, the North Coast Trail ends at Nissen Bight, which is still deep in the backcountry. Most hikers opt to hike another 15.4 km out to the Cape Scott Trail parking lot, making their total hike about 58.5 km (or about 64 km unofficially). (It is also possible to get a water taxi and skip the hike out. See North Coast Trail Water Taxi and Shuttle below for more info.)

How Difficult is the North Coast Trail?

The NCT is one of the most challenging multi-day hikes in British Columbia. I think it’s the hardest trail I’ve done. The terrain is very technical, with lots of mud pits, roots, rocks, and rope-assisted climbs of slippery slopes. Although the distance and elevation gain each day are fairly short, I found the North Coast Trail so difficult because nearly every step requires focus to keep you from falling down.

Ascending a rope from Skinner Beach

The NCT can also be a mental challenge. Travel times on the trail are quite slow, often less than 2 kilometres per hour, and that can be demoralizing. As well, the fickle North Vancouver Island weather means that rain, fog, and cold temperatures are common.

Many people compare the North Coast Trail to the West Coast Trail. They are similar in that they both traverse the coast of Vancouver Island using a mix of beach and inland trails. However, I think the West Coast Trail (while still challenging) is easier than the NCT because the WCT has more infrastructure (boardwalks and ladders) and the beach walk sections are easier.

Best Time to Hike the North Coast Trail

The trail is open year-round. The best time of year to hike the trail is in June, July, and August since those months have less rain and are warmer with temperatures typically between 8-15°C (46-59°F). However, you should still prepare for rain and fog. I experienced lots of both when I hiked the North Coast Trail in August 2008 and August 2021.

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Fog at Shuttleworth Bight on the NorthCoast Trail
Foggy weather at Shuttleworth Bight

If you want to do an out and back trip on the trail from the Cape Scott Parking lot or you can arrange your own boat, you can hike the trail year-round. However, the water taxi and shuttle only run from mid-April to the end of September, so you will encounter very few hikers on the NCT outside of those months.

The North Coast Trail is one of my picks for the best spring backpacking trips in British Columbia.

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

How Long Does it Take to Hike the North Coast Trail?

Most hikers complete the NCT in six days. A typical North Coast Trail itinerary is:

Day 1 – Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek: 8.1 km

Day 2 – Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil: 7.9 km

Day 3 – Cape Sutil to Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight): 7.8 km

Day 4 – Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) to Laura Creek: 11.8 km

Day 5 – Laura Creek to Nissen Bight: 7.5 km

Day 6 – Nissen Bight to Cape Scott Trail Parking Lot: 15.4 km

However, you can shorten it to five days if you arrange a water taxi pick up at Fisherman’s Bay (near Nissen Bight). As well, many hikers tack on a trip to Cape Scott, which adds an extra day or two.

For a more detailed itinerary and other North Coast Trail itinerary options, see my North Coast Trail Itinerary and Section-by-Section Overview.

Which Direction to Hike the North Coast Trail?

Most hikers hike from east to west, starting at Shushartie Bay and finishing at Nissen Bight. The water taxi and shuttle schedules are lined up to work in that direction, with a morning drop-off at Shushartie and an afternoon pick-up at Cape Scott Trailhead parking lot. You can hike the other way, but logistics are more complicated.

North Coast Trail Reservations and Permits

Unlike popular hikes like the West Coast Trail or Berg Lake, you do NOT need to make reservations for the North Coast Trail. There is no limit to how many hikers can be on the trail. However, you do have to get a backcountry camping permit from BC Parks. Permits are $10/person/night and can be purchased up to 2 weeks before your trip.

BUT, due to the location of the trailheads, you will need to make reservations for the water taxi and/or shuttle bus. On popular dates, they sell out. And in the spring and fall, they may not have enough passengers to run. See the Water Taxi and Shuttle section below for more info.

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

How Much Does the North Coast Trail Cost?

The short answer: About $320 per person.

The long answer: It depends.

Three things contribute to the cost of the NCT: water taxi fees, shuttle fees, and trail fees. Here is a breakdown of the typical costs for one person on a typical six-day/five-night trip.

  • Trail fees: $10/person/night x 5 nights = $50
  • Water taxi from Port Hardy to Shushartie Bay = $150
  • Shuttle bus from Cape Scott Parking lot to Port Hardy = $120

If you can arrange your own transportation, you’ll only have to pay trail fees. And if you want the water taxi to drop you off or pick you up at Cape Sutil or Fisherman’s Bay, your water taxi fees will be more expensive.

Beach walking on the North Coast Trail
Beach walking between Shuttleworth Bight and Laura Creek

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

How to Get to the North Coast Trail

Getting to Port Hardy

The North Coast Trail is located in Cape Scott Provincial Park at the very northern tip of Vancouver Island. The drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy takes just over 4 hours via the Island Highway (Highway 19).

The North Coast Trail is also on my list backpacking trips in BC you can get to without a car. There is a shuttle van service from Campbell River to Port Hardy. You can also fly to Port Hardy from Vancouver with Pacific Coastal Airlines.

North Coast Trail Water Taxi

The North Coast Trail water taxi is operated by Cape Scott Water Taxi and leaves from the Port Hardy Marina (behind the Quarterdeck Inn) most mornings between mid-April and late September. It’s a comfortable boat with a heated cabin that seats 12 passengers. Backpacks ride in the cabin or on the deck under a tarp.

Tip: Secure your trekking poles to your pack, and put on your rain cover before you get on board. And don’t forget your camera. We spotted dozens of sea otters, a pod of porpoises, and some whales on our water taxi trip.

Advance bookings are essential as the boat can fill up during July and August or can be too empty to run at other times. Get in touch with Babe, who does bookings, to see if there is availability for your dates. If possible, be flexible so that you can be grouped together with another party.

Cape Scott Water Taxi offers secure parking at their office at the Port Hardy Marina. It costs $30 per week. They ask that you leave them your keys since they may have to double or triple park cars to fit everyone in. We met a couple on the trail who had a hiking boot fall apart on the first day. They radioed the water taxi operator, who had their car keys. The water taxi was able to retrieve a pair of trail runners from their car and deliver them to the hikers at Shushartie Bay later the same day since they had another boat going out!

Water Taxi To/From Shushartie Bay

Most hikers use the North Coast Trail water taxi to start the trail at Shushartie Bay. The trip from Port Hardy takes about an hour. The ride costs $150 per person and the boat will only run if there are at least 4 passengers. Most days the water taxi leaves at 7 am, but there are also additional trips at 9 am (or even later) if there is enough demand.

There is no dock at Shushartie Bay. Instead, the boat captain noses into a large rock next to deep water. Hikers scramble off the front of the boat onto the rocks, which are covered in barnacles and seaweed. It’s a slippery start to the trail!

North Coast Trail water taxi drop-off at Shushartie Bay
Water taxi drop-off at Shushartie Bay

Note: There are old logging roads that reach the Shushartie River estuary at the back of Shushartie Bay. However, they are badly overgrown and there is no trail through the sensitive estuary ecosystem, so you can only reach the trailhead by boat.

Water Taxi To/From Cape Sutil

Some hikers choose to bypass the tough first two days of the trail by starting or finishing at Cape Sutil. The water taxi from Cape Sutil to Port Hardy takes about 90 minutes and costs $160 per person. There is a 5 passenger minimum for the trip, but they will often tack on a Cape Sutil trip off with a Shushartie or Fisherman’s Bay one.

The boat drops off passengers on the rocks at a small cove just north of the main camping beach at Cape Sutil. A short, rough trail over a headland leads to the North Coast Trail. In calm weather, they will drop you off on the rocks and in rougher weather, they will use a small dingy to transfer you from the water taxi to shore.

Note: The water taxi can only land at Cape Sutil at high tide so pick-up and drop-off times may be limited.

Water Taxi To/From Fisherman Bay

You can skip the walk out to the Cape Scott Trailhead by scheduling a water taxi pickup or drop off at Fisherman Bay. It is a small cove just west of Nissen Bight. In the Danish settler days, it was their main port. To get there, follow the trail south from Nissen Bight for a few minutes, then take the right fork to head to the small gravel beach.

The trip from Fisherman Bay to Port Hardy takes about 2 hours and costs $200 per person. There is a 6 person minimum for the trip. Since Fisherman Bay is a steep gravel beach, landing here is a challenge. The water taxi captain will run the boat into the beach, then use the engine to hold it there while a deckhand lowers a ladder off the bow. Hikers scramble up the ladder onto the boat. This method only works in calm water – in rough water they may have to use a small dingy to transfer passengers to the boat.

Note: The water taxi can only land at Fisherman Bay at high tide so pick up and drop off times may be limited.

North Coast Trail water taxi pick-up at Fisherman Bay
Cape Scott Water Taxi coming in for pick-up at Fisherman Bay during the pandemic when masks were required on board.

North Coast Trail Shuttle Bus

Most hikers choose to end their journey with a trip on the North Coast Trail shuttle bus, operated by Cape Scott Water Taxi. The shuttle van seats 10 passengers and requires a minimum of three people to run. The shuttle bus picks up hikers from the Cape Scott Trailhead parking lot daily at 1 pm. The ride back to Port Hardy takes about two hours.

Driving to the Cape Scott Trailhead

If you want to hike the trail as an out-and-back trip (known as a yo-yo) or you have arranged other trip logistics on your own, you can drive yourself to the Cape Scott Trailhead. It’s a two-hour drive from Port Hardy on gravel logging roads. They are usually fine for 2WD vehicles, but they can be dusty, bumpy, and muddy. Bring a spare tire and be prepared to share the road with fast-moving, heavily-loaded logging trucks. See my guide to Cape Scott for full driving directions.

Where to Stay Near the North Coast Trail

Since most hikers start the trail with a water taxi in the morning, it makes sense to stay overnight in Port Hardy. The closes hotels to the dock are the Glen Lyon Inn and the Quarterdeck Inn. I’ve stayed at both and they both have great water views. I’ve also stayed at the indigenous-owned Kwa’lilas Hotel a few minutes away. It’s gorgeous! If you’re on a budget, the North Coast Trail Backpackers Hostel gets good reviews. Be sure to book in advance as hotels are often full in the summer on days when the BC Ferry to Prince Rupert is in port.

Tip: If you have time, plan to spend a few more days on northern Vancouver Island to experience the awesome whale watching, kayaking, indigenous sites, and grizzly bear tours. Read my post about the best things to do on North Vancouver Island.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

North Coast Trail Maps and Books

There is a basic map of the North Coast Trail on the BC Parks website, but it doesn’t provide enough detail for navigation or trip planning.

I’ve also made a a custom Google Map for you. It has all the campsites and key points like trailheads, water taxi, and shuttle bus pick up spots.

North Coast Trail Google Map
Click to open in Google Maps

For travel on the trail, you’ll need a paper map and/or a GPS. There are two maps of the North Coast Trail available: John Baldwin’s North Coast Trail Topographic Map and The North Coast Trail Map from Wildcoast Magazine.

I have both maps. They are both printed on waterproof, tearproof paper. I like the Wildcoast map much more, as it has a lot more information including a day-by-day description with key landmarks and hazards. The John Baldwin map is mostly just a topographic map with a few symbols overlaid on it. You can buy both maps online or at the Cape Scott Water Taxi office.

Looking at the North Coast Trail map at Skinner Creek
Looking at the North Coast Trail map at Skinner Creek

On my trip, I also used the Gaia GPS app. It was really helpful for tracking our progress, especially during the long inland sections that seemed to go by really slowly. (Psst! Want to save 20% off a premium Gaia annual membership, which includes the maps I used on my trip? Use this link.)

If you’re interested in the history of the Cape Scott area or want more info about the natural history of the area, pick up a copy of Cape Scot and the North Coast Trail: Hiking Vancouver Island’s Wildest Coast by Maria I. Bremner. It’s a great book full of lots of fun details and great photos.

My book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island also has chapters bout the North Coast Trail and Cape Scott.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover
.

What to Pack for the North Coast Trail

You will need to be totally self-sufficient on the North Coast Trail and carry in everything you will need for your trip – right down to the toilet paper! The last place to buy supplies is in Port Hardy. It has a grocery store and the hardware store sells a small selection of outdoor gear.

To avoid carrying a stupidly heavy pack, choose lightweight hiking gear rather than heavy conventional camping gear. The lighter you can get your pack, the happier you will be. In general, aim for a pack weight that is 1/3 to 1/4 of your body weight or less. The weather on the coast is also often very wet so be sure to pack accordingly. You may also want a pair of sturdy work gloves to use on the ropes and cable cars.

For lots more information, check out my West Coast Trail packing list, since the gear list is identical to what you’ll need to pack for the North Coast Trail. It’s a complete guide to everything you need to bring including specific gear recommendations from my hikes.

Camping on the North Coast Trail

There are six official campgrounds on the North Coast Trail, and then three more along the Cape Scott Trail in between the end of the North Coast Trail and the Cape Scott Trailhead parking lot. They all have:

  • a pit toilet
  • access to fresh drinking water from a nearby creek
  • metal food storage lockers
  • cleared campsites in the forest AND/OR campsites on the beach sand (Be sure to pitch your tent WELL above the high tide line.)

All campsites are first-come, first-served. At busy times of the year, some of the campgrounds can get full. See my Section-by-Section Overview for full details on each campground.

Camping at Laura Creek on the North Coast Trail
Camping at Laura Creek

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

Drinking-Water Sources on the North Coast Trail

The terrain on the North Coast Trail is coastal bog, which means that freshwater can be hard to find, especially late in the summer and during periods of dry weather. All of the freshwater has a dark tea colour from the tannins in the soil. You should treat all water by purifying, filtering, or boiling it. If you use a filter, consider straining the water through a clean bandana or coffee filter first to get some of the silt and tannins out. Your filter may also get clogged, so make sure you know how to clean it.

Here are the main places to find water along the trail and at the campgrounds. See the section-by-section trail description for more details:

  • Skinner Creek
  • Nahwitti River (but go upstream and avoid high tide so you don’t collect saltwater)
  • Tripod Beach
  • Cape Sutil
  • Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight)
  • Laura Creek
  • Dakota Creek
  • Nissen Bight (west side)
  • Fisherman River
  • Eric Lake

Tides on the North Coast Trail

You will need to bring a tide table and pay attention to the tides on the North Coast Trail. Use the Cape Scott tide table available from Fisheries and Oceans Canada. Make sure you print out the predicted tide height for each hour of the day. It’s much more helpful than just using the daily highs and lows.

There are a few tidal obstacles on the North Coast Trail where the beach is impassable at high tides. Most have rough inland bypass trails, but a few do not. The main tidal obstacles are located just west of Skinner Creek and at Tripod Beach. For full details, see my section-by-section North Coast Trail overview.

You will also want to refer to tide tables when you camp on the beach to ensure that you pitch your tent well above the high tide line.

How to Stay Safe on the North Coast Trail

The North Coast Trail tackles some pretty rugged terrain. And the trail is in a remote area where getting help is difficult. Make sure you are physically and mentally prepared. Take a first aid kit.

There is no cell service so consider bringing a satellite messenger or marine radio. I brought my Garmin inReach Mini on my 2021 North Coast Trail hike. Thankfully we didn’t need it, but we did assist a pair of hikers who were unprepared for the difficulty of the terrain. We helped them call a water taxi at Cape Sutil as they were too tired to complete the remainder of the trail without further aggravating a leg injury.

Leave a trip plan at home with a friend or family member. That way someone knows where you are going and when you expect to be back.

Most injuries on the trail happen when the weather is bad or hikers are tired. (Or both!) Be prepared to turn back or stop and make camp if the weather gets too bad or you are having difficulty with the hike. If you keep pushing forward, you may just make your situation worse by injuring yourself.

Take extra time on ropes, bridges, and cable cars. Watch your step on the boardwalks or any wooden structure – they can be REALLY slippery.

Be careful crossing streams. Make sure they aren’t flooding and if possible, cross at low tide. Speaking of tides, always keep your tide table handy and consult it along with your map whenever you choose a beach route. Only take the official marked beach routes – other routes have dangerous cliffs and surge channels.

Wildlife

The North Coast Trail is a remote wilderness area so it’s home to lots of wildlife. You might encounter a black bear, wolf, or cougar. I’ve hiked the trail twice and both times we have seen quite a few bears and some wolf tracks. In 2021 we counted 39 piles of fresh bear scat between Shuttleworth Bight and Laura Creek and saw three bears near Laura Creek. The area seems to be a hot spot for bear activity.

To minimize the risk of a negative encounter, hike in groups, make lots of noise, and carry bear spray just in case. At campgrounds, store your food and toiletries in the bear bins and camp well away from your cooking area. Do not camp near animal carcasses. (On my first North Coast Trail trip in 2008 we woke up one morning to find a bear eating a seal carcass on the beach near our tent! It had washed up overnight.) If you want more info, I’ve got lots more bear safety tips for hikers and backpackers.

Bear tracks near Laura Creek
Bear tracks near Laura Creek

There is also lots of marine life just offshore along the North Coast Trail. Last time I hiked the trail we spotted grey whales and sea otters feeding near Nahwitti River. There are also lots of curious seals surfacing along the beaches. You can also spy on sea lion colonies on rocky islets in a few places. Bring a pair of binoculars to get a better look. My husband brought a compact GoSky Titan monocular that he found on Amazon. It’s pretty light and not too expensive, but it still has 12×50 magnification.

Trail Rules

Dogs: BC Parks doesn’t allow dogs on the North Coast Trail. The area has a large wolf population. Wolves are very territorial and will attack dogs since they see them as a threat.

Beachcombing: You aren’t allowed to take home anything natural from the trail. That includes shells, rocks, sand, wood, etc. However, you are encouraged to take home anything man-made, such as fishing floats. (I have one hanging in my home office!)

Smoking, vaping, and cannabis: Smoking tobacco and cannabis, using e-cigarettes, and vaping are not permitted on the North Coast Trail or in any BC Park.

Drones: Drones are not allowed on the North Coast Trail or in any BC Parks without a specific permit, issued only to licenced drone pilots.

Campfires: Campfires are allowed on the North Coast Trail as long as there is no fire ban for that part of Vancouver Island. (Check the BC Fire Ban website before you go. Cape Scott is in the Coastal Region.)

Build your campfire in an existing fire ring or make one below the high tide line. Make a small fire and don’t burn big logs so that there is lots of wood left for everyone. Recently I learned that burning driftwood can create toxic smoke from the salt build-up in the logs. So you may want to skip the campfire entirely.

When you are done, use water to douse your fire to make sure it is completely out. Don’t smother your fire with sand. It can continue to smoulder under the sand and can injure people. During my 2020 trip to Cape Scott, a 12-year-old boy had to be evacuated by helicopter after he burned his foot by stepping in embers from an old campfire!

Coastal Hiking Tips

Coastal hiking and backpacking are a lot different than hiking in the forest or mountains. Head on over to my coastal hiking tips post. After over 15 coastal hiking trips to beaches in British Columbia and Washington, I’ve got tons of coastal hiking pointers for you… including how to cope with the EPIC MUD!

Mud on the North Coast Trail
Epic mud pit between boardwalks on the Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek section

Indigenous Context

Indigenous people have lived on northern Vancouver Island along the present-day North Coast Trail since time immemorial. The area is in the traditional territory of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw people. They had village sites at the head of Shushartie Bay (Khatis), at Cape Sutil (Nahwitti), and on Shuttleworth Bight (Go’saa), as well as other cultural sites including burial grounds, shell middens, pictographs, and fish traps.

In the early 1800s, European fur traders began visiting the area to collect sea otter pelts. The indigenous locals were exposed to smallpox and tuberculosis, which devastated their populations. The fur trade also disrupted their culture and caused inter-tribal conflict.

Relations between Europeans and indigenous people were somewhat cooperative until 1850 when the British shelled the village of Nahwitti and burned it to the ground after the residents were accused of harbouring escaped fugitives. The survivors moved to Bull Harbour on nearby Hope Island where there is still a small settlement today.

For more information about the indigenous context of northern Vancouver Island, be sure to visit the U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay, which is one of my recommendations for the best things to do on North Vancouver Island. You can also find info in Maria I. Bremner’s excellent book, Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail.

Trail History

Following the fur trade era in the late 1800s, Danish settlers began colonizing the Cape Scott and North Coast Trail areas. They cleared brush and built farms, stores, and schools as well as trails linking their settlements together. Today, you can visit the remains of these sites on the Cape Scott Trail.

Despite their best efforts, the Danish settlement was not successful, mostly due to the lack of a road. In 1910 new settlers from elsewhere in Canada made a second settlement attempt urged on by a government scheme that gave vacant land to settlers at a discounted rate. Many began farming in the Cape Scott area and along the Stranby River on the present-day North Coast Trail. This settlement was also unsuccessful and by the 1920s, most had left the area.

The Cape Scott area became a provincial park in 1973. In 1995 the North Coast Trail area was added to the park. Planning for the North Coast Trail began in the early 2000s as a way to diversify the North Vancouver Island economy and branch out into eco-tourism.

The North Coast Trail officially opened in spring 2008. I was one of the first 100 people to travel the length of the route when I hiked it for the first time in August 2008. In some places, the route follows original settlers’ trails, and in others trail crews forged new paths through the forest and bogs.

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The North Coast Trail is a unique challenge and a gorgeous place, especially in good weather. This post and its companion, the section-by-section overview of the North Coast Trail should give you all the info you need to have a safe and fun hike. If you have questions about the North Coast Trail, ask them in the comments. I’d love to help!

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Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island https://dawnoutdoors.com/cape-scott-trail/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/cape-scott-trail/#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2020 21:52:44 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=8760 Cape Scott Provincial Park is at the very northern tip of Vancouver Island. It’s a remote but beautiful place: old-growth rainforest, coastal bog, gorgeous white sand beaches, and lots of historical sites. It’s a 23.6km hike from the trailhead to the lighthouse at Cape Scott, so most visitors do it as a backpacking trip, staying …

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Cape Scott Provincial Park is at the very northern tip of Vancouver Island. It’s a remote but beautiful place: old-growth rainforest, coastal bog, gorgeous white sand beaches, and lots of historical sites. It’s a 23.6km hike from the trailhead to the lighthouse at Cape Scott, so most visitors do it as a backpacking trip, staying at one of the campsites along the way.

I’ve done six or seven backpacking trips in the park (to research my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island), so I’ve put together a full guide to the Cape Scott area for you. This post includes:

  • how to get to Cape Scott Provincial Park, including driving directions and where to stay nearby
  • how much it costs to hike and camp at Cape Scott
  • a detailed trail description of the hike from the trailhead to Cape Scott lighthouse
  • other hikes in the area including San Josef Bay
  • where to camp in Cape Scott Provincial Park
  • tips for making your Cape Scott trip a success

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase.  Thanks for supporting my website. -Taryn

Cape Scott Overview

Cape Scott Provincial Park is located at the northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. The main attractions in the park are the trail to Cape Scott at the northwest tip of the park, and the North Coast Trail, a challenging 5-day backpacking trip. (I’ve got a separate guide for the North Coast Trail, so I won’t go into details on it in this post.)

The trail to Cape Scott is 23.6km long from the trailhead to the lighthouse. Most of the trail is in thick coastal rainforest. After 16.8km in the forest, the trail emerges on the sandy beach of Nel’s Bight, where there is wonderful camping. From there, you can continue onwards to the Cape.

The Cape Scott area is the unceded traditional territory of the Kwakwaka’wakw peoples. They had a seasonal village at Experiment Bight and a permanent winter village at Cape Sutil. In the early 1900s, several hundred Danish settlers tried to homesteads and farms in the area. The trails you walk on the way to the cape today are remnants of their old roads and in some places you can see the remains of their settlements.

Cape Scott Basics

Trail Distance: 23.6km (one way from the trailhead to Cape Scott Lighthouse)

Trail Elevation Gain: 100m

How long does it take to hike to Cape Scott: 2-5 days

Best Time to Hike to Cape Scott: June to September

Cape Scott Weather: Cape Scott is usually cool and wet, even in the middle of summer. Temperatures between June and September are usually 8-15°C (46-59°F). June, July, and August are the driest months, but you can still expect lots of rain and fog.

Cape Scott Cost: $10/person/night for camping. Day hiking is free.

What to Bring to Cape Scott: Everything you need to be self-sufficient. Use my simple backpacking checklist to get your gear prepped for the hike.

Cape Scott Rules: No drones. No smoking, vaping, or cannabis. See the rules and tips section below for detailed rules about dogs and campfires. 

Further Resources: My book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island has a chapter about Cape Scott. Check the Cape Scott Provincial Park website before you go for trail updates and advisories. To find some of the historical items in the park, use this Cape Scott Park brochure. If you are interested in learning more about the area, I highly recommend picking up a copy of Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail by Maria Bremner. I used this book on my most recent trip to Cape Scott to find lots of off-the-beaten-path stuff.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover
Buoys on the Cape Scott Trail at Nel's Bight
A huge collection of buoys mark the trail at Nel’s Bight

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Cape Scott Maps

Hiking to Cape Scott is straightforward, with signs at all junctions. For most hikers, the basic Cape Scott Provincial Park map is all you’ll need.

If you’re hiking the North Coast Trail or want a more detailed map, pick up a copy of the North Coast Trail Waterproof Map (which includes the Cape Scott Trail). It has some good info about history and points of interest. I’ve also used John Baldwin’s North Coast Trail map, but I don’t like it as much since it doesn’t have as much info.

I also made a custom Google map for you. It includes all the places I mention in this post. The main campsites and points of interest along the trail to Cape Scott are in red, additional side hikes are in orange. Info on how to get to Cape Scott is in blue. Zoom in and click around to see everything.

Cape Scott Google Map
Click to open in Google Maps

How to Get to Cape Scott

Driving to Cape Scott

Cape Scott Provincial Park is located at the very northern tip of Vancouver Island. The drive from Nanaimo to Cape Scott takes about 6 hours. To get to the Cape Scott Trailhead, start by driving the Island Highway (Highway 19) north. Just before the highway enters Port Hardy, turn left onto Holberg Road.

The road quickly turns to gravel. The remaining 60+km is on gravel logging roads. They are usually fine for 2WD vehicles but they can be bumpy, dusty, and muddy. Bring a spare tire and know how to change it as flats are common.

You will be sharing the road with industrial traffic including fully loaded logging trucks, so use caution. Always drive with your headlights on. Go slow around blind corners. Pull over to let faster vehicles pass. And definitely pull over if you see a logging trucks – they are very heavy and cannot stop quickly. 

All of the main junctions on the logging roads have signs with info about how to get to Cape Scott, so navigation is pretty easy. However, it can be helpful to bring a copy of the Vancouver Island BC Backroad Mapbook to stay on track.

From the highway turnoff, follow Holberg Road for 29km passing Kains Lake and Nahwitti Lake on your right. Watch for the famous Shoe Tree – people have been leaving old shoes here since the 1970s!

After Nahwitti Lake take the left fork onto NE 60 Road. You may not even notice the fork since it will seem like you stay on the same main road. Continue for another 16km to the small forestry town of Holberg.

Follow the main road through the town, then turn onto the San Josef Main Road. Continue on this road, following signs for Cape Scott at all forks for another 19km. Turn left into Cape Scott Park and reach the gravel parking lot a few minutes later. 

The famous shoe tree on the road between Port Hardy and Holberg on Northern Vancouver Island
The famous shoe tree near Nahwitti Lake on the drive to Cape Scott

Cape Scott Shuttles and Water Taxis

If you don’t have your own car, you can also book a spot on the North Coast Trail Shuttle which leaves from Port Hardy. If you are hiking the North Coast Trail, you need to take a water taxi from Port Hardy to the start of the trail at Shushartie Bay.

You can get to Port Hardy without a car by taking the Island Link bus to Campbell River then the Wavin Flags Bus to Port Hardy. (Cape Scott, the North Coast Trail and San Josef Bay are on my list of the best car-free backpacking trips in BC.)

Where to Stay

Since it can take quite a long time to get to Cape Scott from southern Vancouver Island, many people choose to stay overnight in the area before their trip.

The nearest places to stay in a hotel are Port Hardy. When we hiked the North Coast Trail, we stayed at the Glen Lyon Inn in Port Hardy first. I also recently stayed at the indigenous-owned Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy. It’s gorgeous!

If you’re on a budget, the North Coast Trail Backpackers Hostel gets good reviews.

If you want to camp, here is a list of drive-in campgrounds on the way to the Cape Scott trailhead:

If you have time, plan to spend a few more days on northern Vancouver Island to experience the awesome whale watching, kayaking, indigenous sites, and grizzly bear tours. Read my post about the best things to do on North Vancouver Island.

Cape Scott Fees and Permits 

Unlike other popular coastal hikes like the West Coast Trail, hiking to Cape Scott is cheap and easy. There are no reservations – everything is first-come, first served.

You do need to buy a backcountry camping permit if you hike between May 1 and September 30. They cost $10/person/night for adults. (Kids are $5/night.) Print out a copy of your permit or save a screenshot on your phone as the rangers will ask to see it.

The easiest way to get a permit is to buy one online via the Backcountry Permits section of BC Parks’ Discover Camping portal. The earliest you can buy a permit is 2 weeks before your trip. You can also pay in cash at the trailhead.

If you take the shuttle to the trailhead or are doing the North Coast Trail and need to take a water taxi, that will also add to your costs.

READ NEXT: How to Go Backpacking in BC Without Reservations

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

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Cape Scott Trail Description

Trailhead to Eric Lake Campground

Distance: 3km | Elevation Gain: 75m | Time: 1 hour

At the trailhead, you will find an outhouse and a covered area with picnic tables. A few steps down the trail, a yurt hidden behind some trees serves as a ranger station. There is an info board with a map. If you need to pay fees in person, there is a station where you can deposit money in an envelope.

Don’t leave any food in your car. On one trip we saw a car with part of its rear quarter panel ripped off. Apparently, a bear broke in to eat the dog food stored inside.

Leaving the trailhead, the trail is a smooth crushed gravel highway. In the first minute, look for some huge old-growth cedar trees on the north (right) side of the trail. After about 1km, reach a T-junction. The trail to San Josef Bay heads left and your route to Cape Scott turns right.

Immediately after the junction, the trail becomes much rougher. It heads slightly uphill and becomes very wet and slippery as you work you way over sections of old settlers corduroy road. In can be very muddy through here, with lots of puddles.

Cape Scott Trail between the trailhead and Eric Lake
The muddy and slippery trail over the old corduroy road in between the trailhead and Eric Lake.

Just before the 2km marker, arrive at another T-junction. If you continue straight, you’ll reach a viewpoint at the southern end of Eric Lake. Turn right to continue around the lake to the campground.

The next kilometre of trail features of lots of boardwalk that can be VERY slippery. The slower you walk, the less likely you will be to slip and fall. (Believe me, I’ve seen some nasty falls through here.) 

At about 2.7km from the trailhead, descend some stairs and cross a creek. The bridge here is made of a huge fallen log, with some railings for safety. However, the log surface can be slippery and there are only railings on one side, so be careful.

After the bridge, continue on boardwalk for a few more minutes to the Eric Lake campground. 

Bridge on the Cape Scott Trail near Eric Lake
Crossing the log bridge near Eric Lake

Eric Lake to Fisherman River

Distance: 6.3km | Elevation Gain/Loss: none | Time: 2 hours 

The Eric Lake campground has boardwalk paths to several tent platforms. Walk through the campground and cross a bridge. On the other side of the bridge is a junction. Going left will lead you down to the shore of Eric Lake and a small gravel beach that is a great place to take a break.

Turn right to continue towards Cape Scott. You’ll pass another cluster of tent platforms on your right, then the trail to the outhouse on your left.

Continue along the trail, following boardwalk for a few more minutes. The trail parallels Eric Lake, but you can’t really see it through the trees.

About 1km from the campground, look for a giant Sitka spruce tree beside the trail. It has a diameter of over 7m. Keep an eye for lots of other old-growth spruce trees in this section too.

Old growth spruce tree near Eric Lake on the Cape Scott Trail
Old-growth spruce tree near Eric Lake

The next section of trail follows the banks of St. Mary Creek. You can sometimes see it and hear it down the bank to your left, but you never get close to it. There are some awkward spots in this section as the trail is rocky and rooty. Watch for old telegraph wires strung along the trail.

Just after the 8km marker, the trail veers away from the creek slightly. The vegetation changes from lush old-growth forest to spindly trees in a more open and boggy forest.

The trail also changes into a long straight section of old settler corduroy road. If you look carefully, you can still see the drainage ditches on either side.

Old corduroy road on the way to Cape Scott on Northern Vancouver Island
A section of the old homesteaders corduroy road

Just after the 9km mark, the trail gets a lot rougher. This section of trail is brand new, as the bridge over the Fisherman River was replaced a few years ago and this section of trail was built to connect it. Cross the fancy new bridge (built on top of a massive log).

Bridge over the Fisherman River in Cape Scott Provincial Park
Crossing the new bridge over Fisherman River

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Fisherman River to Nel’s/Nissen Junction

Distance: 3.8km | Elevation Loss: 60m | Time: 1.5 hours 

On the other side of the bridge, follow the boardwalk and a small set of stairs to a junction. Turn right to go to the Fisherman River campground and outhouse. Go left to continue to Cape Scott. 

Almost immediately the lush rainforest around Fisherman River fades away and you emerge into a coastal bog. The landscape is dominated by small trees, lots of grass, and water running everywhere.

Thankfully there is lots of boardwalk through this section, and for the most part, the walking is easy. However, there are a few deep mud holes in between boardwalks that you will need to navigate around. 

Coastal bog in Cape Scott Provincial Park
Boardwalk in the coastal bog section

As the bog ends and you reenter the forest, you’ll reach another junction. If you continue straight, you’ll reach Nissen Bight in 1.9km, which is the western terminus of the North Coast Trail.

Turn left to continue to Cape Scott. If you want to check out some history, there are several graves near here. About 1 minute before the junction, an unmarked trail heads slightly uphill into the forest on the east (right) side of the trail. Follow it for a few minutes to a beautiful marble memorial. It commemorates the life of the 12-year-old son of one of the Danish settlers who died of tetanus.

A faint trail on the west (left) side of the trail leads to several graves hidden in the salal. It’s hard to read the inscription on the gravestones, but they are all from early Danish settlers.

A grave from the Danish settler days at Cape Scott
The Christensen grave just off the main trail near the Nel’s/Nissen junction

Nel’s/Nissen Junction to Nel’s Bight

Distance: 3.7km | Elevation Loss: 60m | Time: 1.5 hours 

From the junction, the trail heads downhill in the forest over some roots and rocks. A few minutes past the junction, arrive at an info board at the former Spencer Farm.

On the south (left) side of the trail, you will see the remains of a collapsed building. Look for a faint trail heading north (right) into the forest. Follow it through a grassy area and into heavy trees to find an old tractor wedged between two trees. It was the first motorized machine used at the Cape Scott settlement. There is also lots of historical garbage strewn around including parts of an old stove. 

Abandoned tractor at Cape Scott
Abandoned tractor hidden off to the side of the trail

About 1.6km from the junction, the trail emerges from the forest into an open area at with an info board. A faint trail continues straight through the long grass towards Hansen Lagoon. Turn right to continue to Cape Scott.

After the info board, the trail crosses a wooden bridge over Hansen Creek. On the other side, it heads back into the forest through a particularly muddy patch. The remaining 1.7km to Nel’s Bight is flat and fairly easy.

At first, you’ll walk through old-growth forest. Look carefully to spot evidence of Danish settlers logging. Two trails marked with wooden signs on your left lead to the edge of Hansen Lagoon.

Hansen Lagoon on the Cape Scott Trail
Crossing the open fields near Hansen Lagoon

As you get closer to the beach, the forest opens up and thick salal bushes line the trail. Soon, you’ll arrive at an info sign and dozens of fisherman’s buoys hanging in the trees. Step out of the trees on the sand.

You’ve finally made it to the beach campground at Nel’s Bight! The Kwakwaka’wakw know this beach as Tsewunchas, meaning “winter place”. 

Arriving at Nel's Bight on Northern Vancouver Island
First view of the beach at Nel’s Bight

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Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

Nel’s Bight to Guise Bay

Distance: 3.9km | Elevation Gain: 75m | Time: 1.5 hours 

To continue towards the Cape Scott Lighthouse from Nel’s Bight, head to the west end of the beach. Cross the creek where it flows out onto the sand and follow the shoreline for a minute or so. Look for a trail heading into the forest, marked with a hanging buoy.

Since the coastline here is impassable, the trail climbs up into the forest, gaining 75m in less than a kilometre. It’s one of the steepest bits of trail on the entire hike. 

Cape Scott Trail, northern Vancouver Island
Walking the overland trail between Nel’s Bight and Bowen Beach

About 2km from Nel’s Bight, the trail emerges from the forest onto Bowen Beach. Follow this sandy beach southwest for close to a kilometre. Watch for hanging buoys and follow them back into the forest.

Walk along the old corduroy road until you emerge onto the white sand of Guise Bay. The Kwakwaka’wakw call it Yichaledaz (where the canoes run ashore in heavy swell).

A hiker walks on Bowen Beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Walking along Bowen Beach

Guise Bay to Cape Scott Lighthouse

Distance: 2.9km | Elevation Loss: m | Time: 1 hour

Turn right and head west across Guise Bay. At the far end of the beach (before the big rocks) clamber over driftwood towards buoys marking the trail. Ignore a side trail heading into the dunes and onward to Experiment Bight. Stay on the main trail as it heads into the forest. 

Buoys used as a trail marker on the trail to the Cape Scott lighthouse
Buoys in the grass mark the exit from Guise Bay beach

Within a few minutes, you will encounter a huge section of blowdown. Hopefully, this section of trail will be repaired or a bypass trail will be built soon. In the meantime, clamber underneath the huge fallen trunks and pick up the trail on the other side.

Follow the WWII era plank road through the forest. If you look up, you may also see old power poles high above you.

A section of WWII-era plank road near Cape Scott, British Columbia
The WWII-era plank road on the way to the Cape Scott Lighthouse

A few minutes past the blowdown, a signed trail on the left descends a short distance to a gravel beach with some beautiful sea stacks.

Sea stacks at Cape Scott Provincial Park
Exploring the sea stacks

About 2km from Guise Bay the old plank road turns into a rough gravel road that the lighthouse keepers drive their tractor on. A short trail on the left leads out to a small beach. Follow the gravel road up the hill. Go left at a major fork, and arrive at the Cape Scott Lighthouse a few minutes later. 

The view from the lighthouse at Cape Scott
Looking down at the lighthouse keeper’s house from the Lighthouse

Two lighthouse keepers live here full time, so respect their privacy. However, they are often happy to come out and chat. There are two picnic tables where you can take a break. You can also climb the metal stairs up to the light for a great view.

The lighthouse keepers collect rainwater that tastes and looks much better than what you’ll find in the streams. If you want to fill your bottles, there’s a signed tap for hikers on the backside of the building on the far left as you approach the lighthouse complex. However, in dry weather, there may not be any water for hikers.

Cape Scott lighthouse
You can climb right up to the lighthouse

This is the end of the trail. There used to be a trail out to the end of the cape, but it had some dangerous bridges and boardwalks. It has been closed for several decades now.

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Other Trails in Cape Scott Provincial Park

San Josef Bay 

Distance: 2.5km | Elevation Gain/Loss: none | Time: 45 minutes

This short trail is mostly flat. It’s made of crushed gravel and boardwalk that is smooth enough to push a wheelchair or a stroller. (Although it’s definitely not pavement so use caution as there are some bumps and steeper bits).

From the trailhead, follow the trail nearly 1km to a junction. Turn left and continue through the old-growth cedar forest. Emerge on the beach at San Josef Bay.

Try to time your visit for low tide. You can explore beautiful sea stacks at the west end of the beach or continue around the headland to the second beach. You can camp here too.

San Josef Bay, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Exploring the sea stacks at low tide

Adventurous hikers can continue past San Josef Bay on a rough trail to the summit of 417m-tall Mount St. Patrick, 2km from west San Josef beach. The trail continues down the other side of the mountain to Sea Otter Cove (5.6km from San Josef) and Lowrie Bay (7.5km from San Josef).

These trails are rough and seldom-travelled, so they are best for experienced hikers only. 

Nissen Bight

Distance: 1.9km | Elevation Loss: 60m | Time: 30 minutes

From the Nel’s/Nissen Junction, it’s an easy downhill hike to Nissen Bight. In wet weather, the trail can be very muddy and slippery. The path follows an old Danish settlers’ road. Just before the trail reaches the beach, a side trail heads right to Fisherman’s Bay. 

The settlers would land boats full of supplies there, then haul them up this road to their homesteads near Hansen Lagoon. The Kwakwaka’wakw call this beach Kechegwis, which means “wood drifted on beach”.

Nissen Bight is a quieter alternative campsite to Nel’s Bight. It’s also the western terminus of the North Coast Trail.

Hiker relaxing at Nissen Bight
Relaxing at Nissen Bight

Hansen Lagoon

Distance: Up to 1.5km | Elevation Gain/Loss: none | Time: Up to 40 minutes

The Kwakwaka’wakw call this tidal lagoon Wachlalis, which means “river on the beach in the bay”. Over 100 years ago, Danish settler built a series of dykes across Hansen Lagoon to convert the tidal salt marsh to pastures. Their dykes and fences survive today.

You can follow three different rough trails to see them. Watch for wildlife in the lagoon. We spooked a black bear on my last visit and saw over a dozen eagles feeding.

Hansen Lagoon, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Exploring the old fields at Hansen Lagoon

The first trail leaves from the signboard at Hansen Lagoon just before the bridge. Follow the grassy trail in between the old fence posts. There are a few drainage ditches to cross, which can be challenging.

The trail dead-ends behind the dyke. Some maps show trails branching off this trail to the south, but I couldn’t find them. I suspect they are very overgrown and boggy.

There are also two trails to Hansen Lagoon on the south side of the trail just before Nel’s Bight. They are both marked with wooden signs. Both trails wind through the woods for a minute before dead-ending in boggy areas.

The one marked Hansen Lagoon has a good view down the length of the lagoon. The other one, marked Second Dyke, deadends beside the tree-covered dyke.

Experiment Bight

Distance: 0.5km |  Time: 15 minutes

Follow the trail over the dunes from the west end of Guise Bay to the sandy beach of Experiment Bight. You can see old Danish settler fenceposts in the dunes. There is a great view from the top of the dunes and you are likely to have the beach all to yourself.

The Kwakwaka’wakw call this area Gwigwakawalis, which means “whales on the beach”.

Experiment Bight, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Looking across the dunes towards Experiment Bight

North Coast Trail

Distance: 43km | Time: 5 days

The North Coast Trail is billed as an alternative to the West Coast Trail. It starts at the east end of Cape Scott Provincial park with a water taxi drop off at Shushartie Bay.

From there, the trail follows the coast, sometimes through upland mud bogs, sometimes on rocky beaches. Cable cars help you across rivers and boardwalks keep you out of some (but not most) of the mud. The trail ends at Nissen Bight, and from there, hikers follow the Cape Scott trail out to the trailhead.

I hiked the trail in 2008, the first year it was open and again in 2021. It’s definitely a tough trail and is best for experienced backpackers. Read my compete North Coast Trail Guide to plan your trip.

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Camping at Cape Scott

Eric Lake Campground

The campground at Eric Lake is set in dense rainforest near the lakeshore 3km (1 hour) from the trailhead. It’s a good place to stay if you got a late start on the trail. Take the short trail to Eric Lake to relax on the gravel beach.

Campsites: 11 wooden tent pads connected by boardwalk

Toilet: outhouse on the left side of the trail towards Cape Scott

Water: collect from the stream running through the centre of the campground or from Eric Lake

Food Storage: Food lockers on the left of the trail in the centre of the campground

Eric Lake campground on the Cape Scott trail
Tent platforms at Eric Lake

Fisherman River

This campsite is set in dense forest 9.3km from the trailhead and isn’t too appealing. However, it can be a good place to stay if you need to break up the long hike to Nel’s Bight or Nissen Bight into two days. 

Campsites: 2 wooden tent pads

Toilet: outhouse at the entrance to the campground

Water: collect from Fisherman River next to the bridge

Food Storage: Food locker near the outhouse

Nel’s Bight

This is the most popular campground on the Cape Scott Trail, and arguably the most beautiful. You will hike 16.8km from the trailhead to get here. It’s a broad sandy beach that gets amazing sunsets.

It’s a great place to base yourself for a day hike to the cape. There’s a ranger on staff here in the summer, stationed in a cabin at the east end of the beach. If you visit in the winter, you can stay in the cabin!

Campsites: Unlimited space on the beach above the high tide line

Toilet: Three outhouses – one where the trail meets the beach, one just past the ranger station, and one on the other side of the creek

Water: Collect from the creek on the west side of the beach. Follow signs into the forest to pools in the creek

Food Storage: Food lockers where the trail meets the beach, next to the outhouse near the ranger station, and on the west side of the beach before you cross the creek.

Tents at Nel's Bight in Cape Scott Provincial Park
A long line of tents along the beach at Nel’s Bight
Cape Scott ranger cabin
The cozy new ranger cabin.

Nissen Bight

Nissen Bight is 15km from the trailhead. It is smaller than Nel’s Bight and sees far fewer visitors. Many people camp here after finishing the North Coast Trail.

It’s a good spot if you reach the Nel’s/Nissen Junction and feel too tired to get all the way to Nel’s. I stayed here on one of my trips to Cape Scott, and it was definitely more chill than Nel’s Bight.

Campsites: Unlimited space on the beach above the high tide line

Toilet: Outhouse at the west end of the beach where the Cape Scott trail enters

Water: Collect from the creek on the east side of the beach near the North Coast Trail entrance. It’s a long 1km walk from the Cape Scott Trail entrance

Food Storage: Food lockers at the east and west ends of the beach.

Guise Bay

The beautiful white sand of Guise Bay is 20.7km from the trailhead. It’s a lot quieter than Nel’s Bight. From Guise Bay, it’s a short and easy hike to Cape Scott or to explore the nearby dunes and Experiment Bight.

Campsites: Unlimited space on the beach above the high tide line

Toilet: Outhouse on a spur trail to the left of the main trail

Water: Collect from the creek at the southeast end of the beach. It can run dry in late summer

Food Storage: Food locker near the outhouse.

Guise Bay Beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park
The beach at Guise Bay. Most people camp near the forest on the far side.

San Josef Bay

At just 2.5km from the trailhead, San Josef Bay is a popular spot for families and beginners. Unfortunately, it can also attract partiers. There are actually two beaches here.

The first beach is right where the trail hits the sand. The second beach is past some sea stacks and around a rocky headland. It’s an easy walk on the beach to get there at low tide. At high tide, there is a rough, scrambly, and dangerous overland trail that is not recommended.

Campsites: Unlimited space on both beaches above the high tide line

Toilet: One outhouse at each beach

Water: Collect from the creek at the end of the second beach. Plan to collect water at low tide or pack in water from the trailhead

Food Storage: Food lockers at both beaches.

North Coast Trail

There are six wilderness campsites along the North Coast Trail: Shushartie Bay, Skinner Creek, Nahwitti River, Cape Sutil, Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) and Laura Creek. They each have an outhouse and food locker. They all have a nearby water source except Shushartie Bay.

Read my North Coast Trail Itinerary and Section-by-Section Overview for full details on each campsite.

Wilderness Camping

Random wilderness camping is allowed throughout the park. Be prepared to hang your food in a tree out of reach of animals and use Leave No Trace practices for going to the bathroom.

Lowrie Bay and Experiment Bight see a handful of campers each year. Other pocket beaches on the trail can also be great campsites. Just be sure to put your tent well above the high tide line.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Cape Scott Rules and Tips

Coastal Hiking Tips

Coastal hiking and backpacking is a lot different than hiking in the forest or mountains. I’ve got some Cape Scott specific tips below, but for general advice, head on over to my coastal hiking tips post. After over 15 coastal hiking trips to beaches in British Columbia and Washington, I’ve got tons of coastal hiking pointers for you.

Wildlife at Cape Scott

Cape Scott is home to a large black bear population. They like to forage for food along the beaches and in the estuaries. They often use hiking trails as travel routes. When I hiked the north coast trail we saw a LOT of bears. I’ve also seen bears in Hansen Lagoon.

On my most recent trip, we had an uncomfortable encounter with a bear on the sea stack beach on the way to Cape Scott. The bear was feeding on the beach, blocking our route back to the trail, and walking towards us. After yelling didn’t work, we had to fire bangers to scare it off the beach as it was habituated to people and didn’t want to move.

Make lots of noise as you hike. Carry bear spray. Never camp or linger near a dead animal. Read my tips for bear safety.

Black bear the beach in Cape Scott Provincial Park
The black dot is a bear. The path back to the main trail is on the right side of the photo next to the yellow buoy and we couldn’t get past the bear!

There are also lots of wolves at Cape Scott. A few years ago we had a wolf run right up to our campfire at Nel’s Bight. On my last visit, I saw lots of wolf tracks, but no actually wolves.

To avoid attracting wolves, keep a clean camp, and always store your food properly. Poop in outhouses since wolves are just big dogs and want to eat and/or roll in your poop.

If you see a wolf, scare it off by gathering your group together, making yourself look big by raising your arms or opening your coat, and yelling. Never run.

If a wolf attacks, fight back. Never camp or linger near a dead animal. 

Fresh wolf tracks on the beach in Cape Scott Provincial Park
Fresh wolf tracks at Nel’s Bight

Cape Scott, like the rest of Vancouver Island, is also home to cougars. Cougar sightings are very rare. If you see a cougar, follow the same tips for wolves above. 

You can also spot lots of other wildlife at Cape Scott. I’ve seen whales, sea lions, mink, seals, and eagles. 

A mink amongst rocks on Northern Vancouver Island
A curious mink watches us from amongst the rocks

Dogs at Cape Scott

Cape Scott has a large wolf population. Wolves are very territorial and will attack dogs since they see them as a threat. In most areas of Cape Scott Provincial Park, dogs are prohibited.

The only place dogs are allowed is at San Josef Bay, and they must be on a leash at all times. However, the best way to protect your dog from wolves is to leave him or her at home.

Join the Cape Scott Park Facebook group

Water Sources at Cape Scott

The terrain around Cape Scott is coastal bog, which means that freshwater can be hard to find, especially late in the summer and in periods of dry weather. All of the freshwater in the park has a dark tea colour from the tannins in the soil.

You should treat all water by purifying, filtering, or boiling it. If you use a filter, consider straining the water through a clean bandana or coffee filter first to get some of the silt and tannins out. Your filter may also get clogged, so make sure you know how to clean it.

Here are the main places to find water along the trail and at the campgrounds. See the trail description above for more details:

  • Eric Lake
  • Fisherman River 
  • West end of Nel’s Bight
  • South end of Guise Bay
  • Cape Scott Lighthouse
  • Second (west) beach at San Josef Bay
  • East end of Nissen Bight

Tides at Cape Scott

Unlike the West Coast Trail and most other coastal trails in BC, tides are not a problem on the main trail to Cape Scott. While you may have less beach to walk on at high tide, all parts of the trail are still accessible.

However, the North Coast Trail and the trail to Lowrie Bay do have tidal obstacles. The main reason to pay attention to the tides at Cape Scott is to pick a good campsite well above the high tide mark.

Print out the Cape Scott tide table and carry it with you. There may also be tide tables posted on the info boards at the trailhead and at Nel’s Bight.

Campers under a tarp on a beach on Northern Vancouver Island
Make sure your camp is well above the high tide line. We put our kitchen set up back in the grass to be sure we’d be up above the tide.

Campfires at Cape Scott

Campfires are permitted in Cape Scott Provincial Park as long as there isn’t a regional fire ban in place. (Check the BC Fire Ban website before you go. Cape Scott is in the Coastal Region.)

At coastal campsites, collect driftwood from the beach. Build your campfire in an existing fire ring or make one below the high tide line. Make a small fire and don’t burn big driftwood logs so that there is lots of wood left for everyone.

Recently I learned that burning driftwood can create toxic smoke from the salt build up in the logs. So you may want to skip the campfire entirely.

When you are done, use water to douse your fire to make sure it is completely out. Don’t smother your fire with sand. It can continue to smoulder under the sand and can injure people. During my most recent trip to Cape Scott, a 12-year-old boy had to be evacuated by helicopter after he burned his foot by stepping in embers from an old campfire!

The inland campground at Eric Lake has a metal fire pit. If you must build a fire, do it in the metal fire pit instead of building your own. However, this campground is in dense coastal forest where finding dry firewood will be extremely difficult. Don’t cut down live trees for firewood as they don’t burn well. Instead, look around for small dry branches.

Campfire and sunset on the beach on Vancouver Island
A small campfire on the beach at sunset

Cape Scott is such a special place, especially when the sun comes out. I’m sure you’ll have a great hike. If you need help planning your trip, as always, ask me in the comments. I love to help.

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