In this post, you’ll find personal recommendations for 10 Indigenous tourism activities from tours to museums to historical sites and more. Each one is Indigenous-run and will deepen your understanding of Indigenous culture.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Quick Facts About Indigenous People in Canada

Here’s a quick run-down of the Indigenous context in Canada and North America. This is a HUGE topic that could fill many books, so it’s hard to distill it down to a few bullet points… but I tried. Like many settler Canadians, I’m working on learning more about Indigenous people to contribute to reconciliation, but I still have a long way to go.

• Indigenous people have lived in what is now Canada for 10,000 to 20,000 years. But in Indigenous oral history, that amount of time is basically forever, so it is common to say that Indigenous people have been here since time immemorial. As well, the creation stories of many Indigenous Nations place their origins in what is now Canada, so to suggest otherwise may be viewed as impolite.
• There are about 1.8 million Indigenous people in Canada. They make up about 5% of the total population. After European contact, the Indigenous population declined sharply due to disease, war, and genocidal government policies like residential schools. But today, Indigenous people are the fastest-growing population in Canada.
• “Indigenous” is a word that encompasses three main groups: First Nations, Metis, and Inuit. Previously, the word “aboriginal” was used instead of Indigenous, “Eskimo” was used instead of Inuit, and “Indian” or “Native” was used instead of First Nations. Today, all of these words are no longer commonly used and some Indigenous people may find some or all of them offensive. However, some Indigenous people may still embrace and identify with some of these words.
• There are over 600 Indigenous groups across Canada, called Nations and they speak over 50 Indigenous languages. You can find the Nation and language of a place you are visiting using the interactive Native Land Digital Map. Due to historical (and contemporary) government policies, Indigenous people may live on Reserves or outside of reserves and they may be deeply connected to their culture or disconnected from their culture. There is no single way to be Indigenous in Canada. It varies from Nation to Nation and from person to person.

Indigenous Tourism Tips

It is important to be respectful when you visit Indigenous land, especially in light of the terrible way that settlers have treated Indigenous people since our arrival. Here are a few tips to keep in mind:

• Listen carefully and listen more than you talk. It is a privilege to hear Indigenous people’s stories and they choose which parts of their culture and history to share with you.
• Stay on paths and in designated areas. Some areas are private and not open to visitors. Or they may be sacred for cultural practices. When in doubt, ask first.
• Do not take photos without permission. In some places, photos are encouraged and many Indigenous people are happy to have their photo taken. But that isn’t always the case – cultural practices differ from Nation to Nation and even from person to person. Ask first.
• Spend your money at Indigenous businesses. Stay at Indigenous-run hotels, eat at Indigenous-run restaurants, buy souvenirs from Indigenous gift shops, and book Indigenous tours.
• Do your research and avoid tourism businesses that profit off Indigenous culture or art without giving back to Indigenous people. Unfortunately, Canada has lots of museums full of stolen Indigenous cultural artifacts and lots of gift shops full of knock-off Indigenous art made overseas.
• If you can, learn a few words in the Indigenous language of the people you are visiting. If you were in France, you would say “merci” so you can learn to say “kleco kleco” in Nuu-chah-nulth territory on Vancouver Island or “hawa” in Haida Gwaii.

Wikwemikong, Manitoulin Island, Ontario

Known as the only federally recognized unceded territory in what is now Canada, Wikwemikong on Manitoulin Island is the perfect spot to learn about the true history of these lands. While they offer several experiences, I recommend beginning with the Unceded Journey guided tour. 

Local guides from Wikwemikong will take you to important destinations on the territory. As you learn about Odawa Mnis (the original name for Manitoulin Island), it will quickly become clear its importance to those of the Three Fires Confederacy (Ojibwe, Odawa and Potawatomi). Visit locations such as the Two O’Clock Lookout and the Holy Cross Church as your guide shares key historical events and impactful treaties that have shaped Wikwemikong and the surrounding area.

I had the pleasure of being guided by Jack who was a fountain of information and constantly willing to answer any questions my group had. He shared about his personal experiences with the Residential School System and its aftermath. This tour is incredibly impactful and I couldn’t believe how much I learned!

Wikwemikong offers a variety of tours including guided hikes, paddles and culinary experiences. Learn more about these tours in my guide to Wikwemikong. If you’re planning to stay for a few days on Manitoulin Island, I highly recommend booking a room at the Indigenous-owned and operated Manitoulin Hotel and Conference Centre in Little Current.

Recommended by Lindz of I’ve Been Bit! Travel Blog

Wanuskewin Heritage Park, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan

Currently on its way to becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site, Wanuskewin Heritage Park is one of the coolest indigenous sites I’ve ever experienced. Located on the outskirts of Saskatoon, Wanuskewin Heritage Park provides an incredible museum and cultural centre and acts as Canada’s longest-running archaeological dig site. The site dates back more than 6,000 years and is constantly churning up more and more artifacts.

During our visit, we watched some traditional hoop dancing, learned how to build a teepee and what each pole represents, learned all about the culture of the Northern Plains Indigenous peoples, and got to take a peek at their bison herd, which was introduced back to the site in 2019.

Whether you want to stop by to visit the museum, take a walk on one of their trails, enjoy a meal at their on-site restaurant, or enjoy one of their teepee sleepovers, this is easily one of the top things to do in Saskatoon.

Recommended by Matthew Bailey from Must Do Canada

Sundre Medicine Walk, Sundre, Alberta

Mahikan Trails Indigenous Experiences offers a medicine walk through the woods of Sundre. Sundre is a small town in the Canadian Rockies‘ foothills along the Cowboy Trail (or AB-22). It’s only a 1.5-hour drive from Calgary. This easy 1.5 km walk departs from the Sundre Visitor Information Centre.

I participated in this guided medicine walk in the fall; it was a fun experience and I learned a lot. Jordan was our guide for this Sundre medicine walk. He shared all of his family’s knowledge of medicinal plants. During this 1.5- to 2-hour walking tour, he showed us plants and trees that have medicinal properties.

With his Cree heritage, he has much to share about the different plants and trees and how they can be used for medicinal purposes. Halfway through the walk, we enjoyed mint tea and heard wonderful Cree stories.

The walk is suitable for all ages. We did it with our 3.5 and 5.5-year-old boys, and they were able to follow along. Mahikan Trails Indigenous Experiences also offers medicine walks in Banff at Cascade Pounds and canyon walks in Canmore. While in Sundre, you can also experience a unique glamping stay at Painted Warriors.

Recommended by Emilie from Love Life Abroad

Gwaii Haanas National Park, Haida Gwaii, BC

Located in the southern half of the Haida Gwaii archipelago, Gwaii Haanas National Park is jointly managed by the Haida Nation and Parks Canada. In fact, Indigenous people were instrumental in the creation of the park through a decades-long protest movement to take control of their traditional territory and halt unsustainable logging in the area.

While the huge park protects lots of forests, beaches, and underwater habitats, the most popular sites are the five Haida Watchmen sites. These are important cultural sites staffed by two watchmen (who can be of any gender) from the Haida Nation.

Each of the Haida Watchmen sites is different, but they are all important cultural sites. The highlight is SGang Gwaay, a former village site on Anthony Island in the southern part of the park. It is both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site of Canada.

When disease decimated the Haida population, they abandoned many of their traditional village sites. Later, settlers came and removed their carvings and other cultural items to display them in museums without Haida consent. Today, SGang Gwaay is the only village that still has most of its carved poles and house ruins.

When you arrive, a Haida Watchman will guide you around the island, explaining the carvings on the poles and the layout of the former village. I found it very moving to learn about a culture that was nearly wiped out and the Haida people who are now working to ensure it continues. Of all the places I’ve experienced Indigenous tourism in Canada, this is my favourite.

Like the rest of Gwaii Hanaas National Park, SGang Gwaay is only accessible by boat or kayak. You can travel independently, but since the area is remote and the weather is unpredictable, it’s best to take a tour from the town of Sandspit.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Nass Valley (Nisga’a Territory), BC

The Nass Valley in Northern BC is unique because in 2000 the Nisga’a Nation signed the first modern treaty in Canada. Under the terms of the agreement, the Nisga’a govern their own territory. But while the political history is fascinating, most people visit the Nass Valley for its gorgeous volcanic scenery.

Located north of Terrace, the valley includes four villages and Anhluut’ukwsim Lax̱mihl Angwinga’asanakwhl Nisga’a (Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park). This huge area is the site of one of Canada’s most recent and deadliest volcanic eruptions, dating back to the late 1600s or early 1700s.

Today you can take a hike to Tseax Cone Volcano to see the source of all the lava with Steve Johnson, a local Nisga’a guide. His tour includes lots of info about geology and plants as well as Nisga’a oral history. I really enjoyed listening to Steve tell us the Nisga’a legend that explains the eruption.

All the geothermal in the area created the Higu Isgwit Hot Springs, which are great for a soak and are one of the best hot springs in Canada. The Nisga’a believe they are the dwelling place of a spirit, so you must book ahead and be respectful when you visit.

To really understand Nisga’a culture, you must visit the Nisga’a Museum in Laxgatls’ap. It has a huge collection of carvings, canoes, and regalia. Be sure to take the free guided tour. Two young Nisga’a women gave us a tour and explained the significance of everything we were seeing. Since my visit, Scotland’s National Museum returned a pole they stole nearly 100 years ago. When I visited, our guides explained that the museum was built with an empty space to accommodate the pole, so it was very exciting that it was finally returning home.

The Nass Valley is a one-hour drive from Terrace so you can visit it as a day trip. But I recommend spending at least one night in the valley, either at the Vetter Creek campground or at one of the Nisga’a-owned lodges and B&Bs.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Kitselas Canyon, Terrace, BC

Kitselas Canyon, a National Historic Site of Canada managed by the Gitselasu People, was a pleasant, spontaneous stop during my BC road trip. Tucked away along the Skeena River near the community of Gitaus, the canyon was once home to six ancestral villages and a fortified site. Today, it’s the perfect blend of history, culture, and nature.

Drive to the visitor center, just 15 minutes from Terrace. Since I visited during the shoulder season, I did a self-guided tour. The guided tours depart at 10 am and 1 pm, May-August. The admission fee of $10 helps support the maintenance and economic development of the community.

I first stopped at the four interpretive buildings representing the wolf, eagle, raven, and orca clans. Each longhouse hosts a unique collection of artifacts, historical information, and ecological displays. A highlight was a replica of the cave petroglyphs found in the region, likely created by shamans.

After a stroll through the forested trail, I came across an ancient dugout canoe, four stunning clan poles, and a trail fork. The right led me on a more strenuous adventure to the banks of the Skeena River; the left took me to an easy-to-access viewing platform. The information was limited for the self-guided experience. However, the highlight for me was the beautiful natural landscape and the feeling of connectedness to a place inhabited for over 6,000 years.

Recommended by Susanna Kelly-Shankar from Curiosity Saves Travel

U’mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay, BC

Alert Bay, BC is a small community on an island just off the coast of northern Vancouver Island. You can get there on a short ferry ride from the town of Port McNeill. About half of the island is a ‘Namgis First Nation reserve (the ‘Namgis are part of the larger Kwakwaka’wakw Nation).

Alert Bay is a great place to learn about Potlatch culture, a practice that is common to Indigenous people up and down the Pacific Northwest Coast. A Potlatches is a huge gift-giving feast where the hosts share food and gifts with attendees, who may travel great distances to be there.

Potlatches were illegal in Canada between 1884 and 1951. The Canadian government stole ceremonial masks and dance regalia used in potlatches and gave them to museums around the world. Since then, the Kwakwaka’wakw have worked hard to bring these ceremonial items home. Today some of them are on display at the U’mista Cultural Centre.

This excellent museum has great displays that explain potlatching as well as Kwakwaka’wakw history and culture. But the real highlight is the temperature-controlled cedar room with the dance masks and regalia on display.

After visiting the museum, you should also take a walk around the town to see the totem poles – there are dozens. Alert Bay is also the home of the world’s largest totem pole. It is 173 ft (53 m) tall. If you are hungry, be sure to stop at Duchess’ Bannock for some delicious bannock (fry bread) with berries and whipped cream.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Wild Side Trail, Tofino, BC

If you want to combine backcountry hiking and Indigenous culture, visit the Wild Side Trail. The hike is in Ahousaht territory on Flores Island, which is a short water taxi ride from Tofino.

The trail starts in the village of Maaqtusiis and heads along the coast for 11 km before finishing at Cow Bay. From there you can hike back to the start or arrange to have a water taxi pick you up. You can hike the trail in one day, or split up your journey with a stay at one of three backcountry campgrounds along the way.

While the rainforest and coast scenery are reason enough to go, the hike is also an important historical route for the Ahousaht Nation. The trail passes many important locations in the Ahousaht-Otosaht war in the early 19th century. You can find more info on the significance of each place on beautifully painted interpretive signs.

You can also find culturally modified trees along the route. The best example is a huge old-growth cedar near the Kutcous River. It has a large square box cut out of it part way up. This was a way to test the inner wood of the tree to see if would make a good canoe. Further down the tree, the Ahousaht removed two long planks from the tree. This was done in such a way that the tree remains alive and healthy today.

You must obtain a permit from the Ahousaht Nation to hike the trail. You can do this on their website or at the Ahous Fuel Stop which is at the dock where the water taxi drops you off in Maaqtusiis. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in Tofino, the Indigenous-owned Himwitsa Lodge is near the water taxi dock.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, Whistler, BC

The Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre is one of my top picks for the best things to do in Whistler. Each year millions of people visit Whistler to ski and hike without learning anything about the traditional Indigenous land they are visiting. The SLCC is an Indigenous-run museum. It explains the history and culture of the Squamish and Lil’wat Nations, the two Indigenous groups that have called the Whistler area home since time immemorial.

The museum has lots of excellent exhibits of Indigenous carving, clothing, and art, which are interesting on their own. But for me, the best part of the SLCC is the free guided tour. It begins with a welcome song and drumming. Then, a local guide from the Squamish or Lil’wat Nations walks you through the museum.

Your guide will explain the exhibits and also tell their own stories about their personal connections to the art and artifacts on display. On my most recent visit, our young Lil’wat guide showed us a cedar box used as a baby cradle and backpack. He explained that he had a similar box passed down from his grandparents and planned to use it for his baby. He also helped us understand the way the geography and drier climate north of Whistler influenced Lil’wat culture in ways that are different than Squamish culture to the south.

Don’t miss a visit to the gift shop. They have lots of great art, jewelry, clothing, and books. You can also try Indigenous-inspired food like Bannock tacos at the Thunderbird Cafe on the lower level. This gorgeous museum is located in the heart of Whistler in the Upper Village area.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Talaysay Tours, Vancouver, BC

Stanley Park is often described as Vancouver’s “Crown jewel,” but even that metaphor hints at its colonization. Taking a walking tour through the 1000-acre park with Talaysay Tours, an Indigenous-owned company, is one powerful way to take steps towards reconciliation.

I loved their Talking Trees tour, during which my Coast Salish guide told me about how the forest’s diverse trees and plants have been used by Indigenous peoples since time immemorial. He spoke about which trees are used to build longhouses (cedars) and which are good for fire-starting (Douglas firs). He described the processes of creating a dug-out canoe, carefully stripping cedar bark, and building temporary shelters.

My favourite parts were his personal stories, especially the one about his grandmother’s healing experience at a winter longhouse ceremony.

Stanley Park is located in downtown Vancouver, on a peninsula between Burrard Inlet and the harbour. The Talking Trees tour meets at the park’s bus loop (accessible by bus 19) and continues on local trails near Stanley Park Pavilion. We walked to landmark trees, like a tall Douglas fir, and stopped at Beaver Lake.

Talaysay offers different tours. Talking Totems, for example, focuses on the Stanley Park totem poles and explains the values of this Indigenous art form. Their Forest Bathing tour is a meditative outing during which the guide shares cultural teachings about the forest. If you want to stay nearby, try the Skwachays Lodge in downtown Vancouver. It is an Indigenous-owned boutique hotel with an art gallery and artist-in-residence program.

Recommended by Melanie Ferguson from Postcards & Places

I hope you take the time to experience Indigenous tourism in Canada. The experiences in this post are just a starting point: there are lots of other great Indigenous tours, hotels, and experiences across our nation. Do you have another Indigenous tourism experience to recommend? Tell me in the comments.

READ NEXT:

• Best Small Towns in Canada for Outdoor Adventures
• Your Guide to the Best Hot Springs in Canada
• How to Take an Epic Canadian National Parks Road Trip
• Things to Do in Haida Gwaii
• The Ultimate Guide to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve
• Things to do in the Nass Valley (Nisga’a Territory) in Northern BC

The post Where to Experience Indigenous Tourism in Canada appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Planning a trip to Gwaii Haanas can be pretty overwhelming. When I was researching the park before my visit, I had a lot of questions. At first, I wasn’t even sure how to get to the park!

I’ve put together a huge guide to Gwaii Haanas for you that includes everything I learned about the national park. It includes:

• Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve basics including pronunciation, park history, and Indigenous context
• Where is Gwaii Haanas National Park and how do you get there? Plus where to stay nearby.
• A Gwaii Haanas National Park map that shows all the major sites
• Guided tours vs. self-guided? What’s the difference? And what kind of tours can you take?
• Fees and reservations: What do you need to pay for both self-guided and tour participants.
• How much time should you spend in Gwaii Haanas? How many days do you need?
• When to visit Gwaii Haanas? What is the best time of year to go?
• Tips for visiting Haida Watchment cultural sites: How to be respectful.
• Things to do in Gwaii Haanas National Park including Haida cultural sites, kayaking, old-growth trees, and more
• Where to stay in Gwaii Haanas National Park: camping, lodges, and live-aboard boats
• What to pack for Gwaii Haanas National Park

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Basics

The entire southern part of the Haida Gwaii archipelago is protected within Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. Also, much of the surrounding ocean is in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area Reserve because the Haida do not see a distinction between land and water environments.

Here are a few quick facts about Gwaii Haanas:

• The park’s name is pronounced “gwhy hah-nas” and means “islands of beauty” in the Haida language.
• The National Park was established in 1988 following over a decade of protests by the Haida and environmentalists who were concerned about logging and environmental degradation in Haida Gwaii.
• Since 1993, the park has been cooperatively managed by the Council of the Haida Nation and the government of Canada
• SG̱ang Gwaay Llnaagay on Anthony Island in the southern part of the park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site of Canada in 1981
• The park has a unique ecology and is known as the Galapagos of Canada. The temperate rainforest is home to several species found nowhere else, including the Haida Gwaii black bear.
• There are very few facilities in the park. There are no established campgrounds or hotels. The only toilets are composting outhouses at the Haida Watchmen heritage sites.
• Gwaii Haanas, along with the entire Haida Gwaii archipelago, is the traditional territory of the Haida people who have lived here for over 12,000 years. In pre-colonial times, there were over 30,000 Haida, but over 90% of the population died in the 1800s from smallpox. Today there are about 5,000 Haida, and they make up 50% of the population of Haida Gwaii. Gwaii Haanas is one of the best places to experience Indigenous tourism in Canada.
• To help visitors respect this special place, the Haida Nation developed the Haida Gwaii Pledge. All visitors are encouraged to read and sign the pledge.

Where is Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and How Do You Get There?

Getting to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

The only way to get to Gwaii Haanas is by boat. There are no roads in the national park.

To get to Gwaii Haanas National Park you will first need to get to the islands of Haida Gwaii, located on the northwest coast of British Columbia, Canada. Since they are islands, you can only get to Haida Gwaii by ferry or plane. My Haida Gwaii guide has all the info you need on how to get there.

Boat access to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is either with a tour or as an independent traveller. Most tours leave from Moresby Camp, an hour’s drive from Sandspit. But a few tours leave from Daajing Giids, the main village on Haida Gwaii. If you sign up for a tour, it will include transportation to the boat dock from either Sandspit or Daajing Giids.

Where to Stay Near Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Since most tours have an early morning departure, it makes the most sense to stay nearby.

If your tour leaves from Sandspit, I recommend the Seaport B&B. We stayed here before our Gwaii Haanas tour. It has a fun communal atmosphere and a great view of the beach from the front deck.

For Daajing Giids departures, consider Premier Creek Lodging, the oldest hotel in Haida Gwaii. It has a gorgeous garden alongside a creek. Another option is Spruce Point Lodge. It has waterfront motel-style rooms with breakfast delivered each morning.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Map

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is huge, with dozens of islands and hundreds of kilometres of shoreline. The Parks Canada map below provides a great overview of the park. However, if you are self-guided, you will need the appropriate marine charts for navigation.

Even though I was on a tour, I found it really helpful to use the Gaia GPS app on my visit. That way I could see the terrain around us and find out the names of all the little islands and bays that we passed.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Tours vs. Self-Guided

There are two ways to visit Gwaii Haanas National Park: on a guided tour or as an independent traveller in your sailboat, power boat or kayak. I’ve got details on both below.

Pro tip: Book your tip well in advance – popular tours sell out 6 to 12 months before departure date.

Guided Tours in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Unless you are an experienced kayak or boater, it’s best to visit Gwaii Haanas on a guided tour. It’s a huge park with lots of complicated shoreline and sometimes volatile weather. Going with a guide is the safest and most enjoyable option.

But, I’ll be straight with you: visiting Gwaii Haanas isn’t cheap. Some of the tour companies are moderately priced, but many are aimed at the luxury market. To save money, take a shorter tour or a kayak tour.

Only licensed tour operators are allowed to guide tours in Gwaii Haanas. You can find a list of current tour operators on the Parks Canada website. There are a few main types of tours:

Single Day Power Boat Tours

If you only have one day to see the park, you will need to take a power boat tour. Since these tours are single-day, they are the least expensive option. However, they are not cheap – expect to pay $300-600 per person depending on tour type.

These tours typically involve quite a lot of time on the water and not much time on land since the main sites can be a few hours apart. As well, you will only have time to visit a few of the Haida cultural sites.

The main day tour operator is Haida Style Expeditions. They are the only Indigenous-run tour company in Gwaii Haanas National Park. They have closed cabin boats. Moresby Explorers also offers a single-day tour on open zodiacs.

Multi-Day Power Boat Tours

The main operator in this category is Moresby Explorers, the tour company I chose. They offer 2-4 day tours in open zodiacs with accommodation at their floating lodge at the northern boundary of Haida Gwaii or at a very rustic B&B in Rose Harbour. Expect to pay $1200-$2500 depending on tour length.

I loved my tour with Moresby Explorers. Our guide Jamie was incredible. His enthusiasm for the landscape and culture was infectious. We really felt like we were getting an insider’s tour of the park. The food at the floating lodge was also incredible. Chef Ash and her assistant Dani made such a feast.

If you are going to do a tour in Gwaii Haanas National Park, the Moresby Explorers 4-Day tour is my number one pick!

Multi-Day Sailing Tours

Sailing tours are the most luxurious (and therefore the most expensive) tours in Gwaii Haanas National Park. Expect to pay about $5000 to $8000 per person for a week-long tour. These are truly bucket list tours with high-end chefs, on-board naturalists, and even airfare from Vancouver included.

Multi-Day Kayaking Tours

The next time I go to Haida Gwaii, I want to do a kayaking tour. I had an incredible experience kayaking with whales in the Johnstone Strait off the coast of Northern Vancouver Island, and I can’t wait to kayak in Gwaii Haanas National Park.

There are several kayak tour companies licensed to operate in the National Park. Tours are typically five to eight days long and range from about $2000 to $3500 per person. Accommodation is in rustic campsites with no facilities – not even outhouses.

Many tours use a kayak shuttle service where a power boat shuttles the kayaks, gear, and tour group participants into the farther reaches of the park. This means you can concentrate on seeing a specific portion of the park, not paddling long days between sites.

Kayak Mothershipping

Before researching my trip to Haida Gwaii, I had never heard the term “kayak mothershipping”. It refers to travelling on a power boat or sailboat with kayaks on the deck, and then going kayaking from there. Each night you sleep on the power boat or sailboat.

It is a much more comfortable experience than the kayak tours in the park since you won’t be camping. Some tour operators are fancy with chefs on board, while others are more communal, with guests working together to cook meals and perform boat chores. Prices range accordingly, from $4000 all the way up to $10,000 for a week-long tour.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Fees and Reservations

If you are travelling independently, you must make reservations and pay fees to enter Gwaii Haanas National Park. Reservations for the following summer open each year in February.

You must also attend an orientation session, offered most mornings at the park headquarters near Skidegate. Find more info about fees and reservations for independent visitors on the park website.

If you are visiting the park as part of a guided tour, your National Park fees and reservations are included as part of your tour and you don’t need to worry about it.

How Much Time to Spend in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is huge so you will need to set aside some time to see it. It is possible to see the highlights in one or two days if you don’t have the time or budget for a longer trip.

However, to see all the Haida cultural sites as well as have time for wildlife watching and visiting some of the out-of-the-way corners of the park, plan to spend at least four days in the park. Most Gwaii Haanas National Park tours are four to eight days long to ensure that guests get the best experience.

When to Visit Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

The best time to go to Gwaii Haanas National Park is between May and September when the weather is nicest. Most tour companies do not run outside of those months.

July and August are the busiest months since they have the best weather. I went in June and we enjoyed mostly sunny weather. As well, most of the attractions were pretty quiet.

The best months for whale watching are May and September.

Summer in Haida Gwaii can be cool and wet. The driest months are driest months are May, June, and July. August and September are also relatively dry. But you should expect rain at any time. July and August are the warmest months with daily temperatures of 10-18°C (50-64°F). May, June, and September are a little cooler.

Visiting Haida Watchman Sites

There are five Haida Watchmen sites in Gwaii Haanas National Park. These are the main Haida cultural sites in the park. In pre-colonial times, Haida villages often had watchmen to warn citizens of approaching enemies.

The contemporary Watchmen program began in 1981 as a volunteer program, before the park was formed as a way for the Haida to attempt to safeguard their traditional territory against logging and poaching of the carvings and other cultural items.

In the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, the BC government stole monumental poles from K’uuna, SGangwaay, and T’aanuu. The government wanted to protect and preserve the poles in museums. Since the 1970s, the government has returned some of the stolen poles to the Haida.

Today the Haida Watchmen are paid employees of Parks Canada and the Council of the Haida Nation. Each Haida Watchmen site is staffed by two watchmen (who can be of any gender despite the term watchmen). Watchmen can be as young as 16 or in their 70s. They live in small off-the-grid cabins on site and provide tours to visitors.

How to Show Respect at Haida Watchmen Sites

You must act respectfully when visiting Haida Watchmen sites. These are important places of culture and history. Here are my tips for showing respect:

• Listen carefully. It is a privilege to be here and hear the Haida stories. The Haida Watchmen may choose which parts of their own, their clan’s or their Nation’s oral history to share. Each visit is unique.
• Stay on the paths, which are outlined with shells. What may look like a log to you may be a fallen house pole or monumental pole, so watch where you step.
• Do not take photos of anything without permission, including of the Watchmen themselves. The Watchmen know the best spots to take pictures and will let you know.
• If you wish, bring a small gift. In coastal Indigenous cultures gift giving is an important part of diplomacy and respect – it is rude to arrive empty-handed. (You will learn about potlatch culture from the Watchmen.) Bringing a gift is not required or even expected, but it is polite. If you bring a gift, keep it small and consider bringing something from your hometown or culture. We brought handmade chocolate bars made by a local shop in our hometown of Squamish.

Things to Do in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

If you are on a tour in Gwaii Haanas, your guide will set your itinerary and make sure that see you all the major sites. But here’s a brief run-down of the major things to do and see.

SGang Gwaay

SGang Gwaay is the most famous site in Gwaii Haanas National Park. It is pronounced “ss-gang gwhy”. In Haida, the name means Wailing Island because sometimes the tides push air through a hole in a rock nearby and it sounds like a crying woman. It is also called Ninstints (or Nan Sdins) after a famous chief who lived here in the mid-1800s.

The site is located on Anthony Island near the southern tip of the park. It can be hard to reach in bad weather since it is so remote. On my trip, we battled through waves and a huge fog bank to get there.

SGang Gwaay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site to protect the remains of Haida houses and mortuary and memorial poles (which are often incorrectly called totem poles). Unlike other sites in Gwaii Haanas, many of the poles are still standing.

This is one of the five Haida Watchmen sites in Gwaii Haanas. When you arrive, one of the Watchmen will take you on a walking tour of the site. SGang Gwaay is the largest Watchmen site, with a 1.5 km loop trail that heads through the forest, then along the beach to the village site.

Your Watchman guide will explain Haida culture and give you lots of information about the history of the village site and the cultural significance of the monumental poles.

For many people, SGang Gwaay is the most special place in Gwaii Haanas National Park. I found the whole experience very moving.

Our guide was a 17-year-old Haida girl who had just finished high school and was working as a Watchman before heading off to university. It was interesting to see Haida culture continuing through the generations and to witness the juxtaposition of carrying on an ancient culture while also living in the modern world.

K’uuna (Skedans)

While K’uuna is usually visited as part of a trip to Gwaii Haanas National Park, it’s not actually in the park. Instead, it is part of K’unna Gwaay Conservancy, protected by BC Parks and also part of the Haida Heritage Site, protected by the Haida Watchmen.

K’unna is a former village site located on the northern side of Louise Island, just north of the National Park boundary. Sometimes spelled Koona, the site is also known as Skedans, which is the English name for the Haida village site there. It is believed that Skedans comes from the name of the village chief in the late 1800s, Gida’nsta. In Haida, K’unna means “edge” and Llnagaay means “village”, so its name means village on the edge.

The village was abandoned amid the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s. Today you can see the remains of a few long houses as well as some monumental poles and carvings. The Haida Watchmen will guide you around the site.

In the early 1900s, Canadian artist Emily Carr visited K’uuna. Her paintings of the monumental poles still standing at that time sparked broader interest in Haida art and culture.

T’aanuu (Tanu)

T’aanuu is another former Haida village site that is now a Haida Watchmen site. It is a designated National Historic Site of Canada. In Haida, the village’s name means eel grass, since there is so much sea grass near the village.

It is located on Tanu Island at the very northern edge of Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve.

Haida Watchmen will guide you around the site to show you the remains of long houses and monumental poles. You can also visit the headstone of Bill Reid (Iljuwas), one of the most significant Haida artists. His carvings are famous throughout Canada.

We happened to visit at low tide and the Watchmen showed us a unique clearing in the rocks exposed by the low water. They explained that the Haida had likely used it as an octopus farm, allowing the octopuses to mature in the rock piles, and then harvesting them once they were big enough to eat.

Hot Springs Island

Having a soak at Hot Springs Island is a must when you visit Gwaii Haanas National Park. In Haida, the island is known as Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay. It’s one of the best hot springs in Canada.

The Haida Watchmen act as caretakers of the site, cleaning the tubs and providing info about the area. In pre-colonial times the island was home to shamans and was very spiritually significant to the Haida. However, most of the Haida population perished during the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s. The shamans were the most involved in attempting to heal the sick, so unfortunately, today the Haida are not sure what kind of cultural practices occurred on Hot Springs Island.

You can visit Hot Springs Island for an hour-long soak in the hot pools. There are changing cubicles at the entrance. You must take a hot shower in the shower building before you get into the springs.

There are three hot pools built into the rock. Each one is fairly small and can fit 3-6 people. The one next to the shower building has the lowest temperature. The two pools set into the hillside above the changing hut have the best views but the one at the top is scorching hot.

In October 2012, a 7.8 magnitude earthquake struck Haida Gwaii and the hot pools mysteriously drained. Over the next few years, hot water slowly returned to the island. The current pools opened in 2017. Parks Canada staff don’t know where the water on Hot Springs Island comes from but they think it may be groundwater from nearby Lyell Island.

Windy Bay

Known as Hlk’yah GawG̱a in Haida, Windy Bay is another Haida Watchmen site. But unlike the other Watchmen sites, this place is not famous for its historical value but rather for more recent events. In the 1980s, the Haida became concerned at the pace of logging in their traditional territory. They began a protest movement that ultimately resulted in the preservation of Gwaii Haanas and the co-management of the area by the Haida along with the government.

During the protests, the Haida built a longhouse at Windy Bay, called “Looking Around and Blinking House”. It housed Haida protestors and today you can tour the interior.

In 2013, the Haida, along with Parks Canada staff and other volunteers raised a huge monumental pole at Windy Bay, the first one in Gwaii Haanas in 130 years. Called the Legacy Pole, the pole honours the 20th anniversary of cooperative management between Canada and the Haida Nation. Look for the Haida Watchmen depicted at the top of the pole.

On the other side of the creek from the longhouse and Legacy Pole, there is a short trail to a huge old-growth Sitka spruce which is about 900 years old.

Wildlife Watching

Gwaii Haanas National Park is famous for its wildlife watching. With lots of narrow channels and rocky islands, you can spot tons of marine life.

Whales and Marine Life

Whales and dolphins are very common. Grey and humpback whales migrate through the islands each spring and fall. Orcas (killer whales), Minke whales, dolphins, and porpoises live in the National Park year-round. Your guide will get intel over the radio from other guides when whales or dolphins are spotted so you will have the best chance of seeing them.

While whale sightings aren’t guaranteed, you will definitely see seals and sea lions. Several of the rocky islets are home to huge seal and sea lion colonies. They haul themselves out of the water to rest so they are easy to spot. The huge male sea lions are fun to watch as they bark and growl at each other.

There’s also a whole underwater world to discover. Our guide nosed our boat up against cliffs to see purple starfish clinging to rocks and anemones swaying in the current. I loved watching jellyfish pulse below the surface from the dock of the floating lodge. And the slow trip through the kelp forests of Burnaby Narrows was magical.

Birds

You should also keep an eye out for tons of bird species. If you aren’t a bird nerd before going to Gwaii Haanas, you will be after your trip! On my trip, we spotted lots of bald eagles. We also saw lots of black oystercatchers, cormorants, ancient murrelets, and pigeon guillemots. The most exciting part for me was seeing a pair of tufted puffins. So cute!

Bears

I was surprised to learn that Haida Gwaii has its own sub-species of black bears (Ursus americanus carlottae). They are a bit bigger than black bears in the rest of BC since they feed on a high-fat diet of salmon and shellfish. Spotting black bears on the beaches is common. If you visit in September, you might also see bears at river mouths gorging on spawning salmon.

Rose Harbour

Rose Harbour is surrounded by Gwaii Haanas National Park, but it is actually a private in-holding within the park. It is the only private property within the park. The small settlement was founded as a whaling station in 1910. Whaling operations ended in the 1940s and the land was sold to a group of ten friends in 1976.

Since then, the original ten friends and their descendants have built homes at Rose Harbour. Most are summer-only places, but there are a few year-round residents. It’s an interesting place to explore (with the permission of the owners).

With advance booking, you can stay at the very rustic Rose Harbour Guest House. I stayed there for one night on my four-day tour with Moresby Explorers. Goetz, the eccentric owner, built the guest house himself, mostly from salvaged materials. He also has a huge (and fascinating) organic garden next door.

You can also have a meal at the cookhouse (again with advance booking). For years, Susan, one of the original Rose Harbour owners, offered incredible meals in her home kitchen. But these days her daughter Frances serves food out of the newly built cookhouse. Much of the produce is grown in Susan’s huge garden!

Old-Growth Forests

While the northern part of the National Park was logged in the 1970s and 80s, most of the park is full of pristine old-growth forest. It’s a coastal rainforest ecosystem, with tons of western Hemlock interspersed with Sitka spruce and Western red cedar.

You can go ashore at pretty much any beach and wander into the forest to see giant old-growth trees. But if you go with a guide, they will take you to some of the most impressive specimens, which can be over 200 ft (61 m) tall.

Abandoned Logging Camp

Although it is not inside the national park, Aero Camp is a common place to stop. It’s located a few minutes by water from Moresby Camp, the launch point for boat tours to Gwaii Haanas.

Aero Camp was a huge logging camp in from the 1930s until the late 1960s. It had a logging railroad and a post office. Today the huge pilings on the beach hint at how large the camp was. If you go ashore, you can explore abandoned machinery, trucks, and a storage tank that you can crawl inside.

Kayaking

Haida Gwaii is known for its incredible kayaking. With so much varied shoreline with hundreds of islands and peninsulas, Gwaii Haanas National Park is a great place for a kayak trip.

If you are an experienced kayaker, you can plan your own expedition to the park. However, you will need to make reservations and go through a mandatory park orientation. As well, since distances in the park are so great, many paddlers pay to have their kayaks transported by motor boat deeper into the park so they can maximize time at the best scenery.

Most of the tour operators in Gwaii Haanas National Park offer kayaking, either as an expedition-style kayak trip with camping or day trips from motor boats or sailboats. On my trip with Moresby Explorers, we were able to kayak in the evenings in the quiet bay around their floating lodge.

Fishing

People travel from all over the world to fish in Haida Gwaii. You can catch salmon, halibut, lingcod, rockfish, and more. Remember that you will need a Tidal Waters Sport Fishing License, which you can buy online.

You can only fish in saltwater in Gwaii Haanas and many areas have fishing restrictions or closures, so it is important to read maps carefully.

Most tour operators in the National Park can incorporate fishing into your visit, but you may have to request it.

Hiking

Since Gwaii Haanas is mostly a marine National Park, there are few hiking trails in the park. The only established trails are the short ones at the Haida Watchmen sites.

Besides the Watchmen sites, there are no hiking trails in Gwaii Haanas National Park. If you explore inland away from the beaches, you will find thick coastal rainforest and steep terrain.

Where to Stay in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

There are no hotels inside Gwaii Haanas National Park. However, there are two rustic lodges located just outside the park boundary. The easiest way to arrange accommodation is to go with a tour. Below I’ve got a breakdown of where to stay in Gwaii Haanas National Park

Camping

There are no formal campgrounds in Gwaii Haanas National Park. However, you are permitted to camp on beaches in most of the park. (A few areas are closed to camping.) But you should expect no facilities. That means no toilets, garbage cans, picnic tables, or even level tent sites.

Most of the campers in the national park are kayakers, either travelling independently or on tours. If you go with a kayak guide, they can recommend the best beaches for camping.

Live-Aboard

Many independent visitors and tour participants stay on board their vessels inside the park. There are lots of sheltered bays to anchor. Facilities vary by tour vessel, but you can expect bunks or small rooms with shared toilets.

Lodges

There are two lodges located just outside the boundaries of the national park.

The first is the Rose Harbour Guest House, located in the southern part of the park. It is the only private land within the National Park. Anyone can stay here with an advance booking.

It is very rustic with a shared outhouse outside. However, it does have a wood-fired hot shower. Some kayak tours and longer tours from Moresby Explorers spend a night here. I stayed here as part of my Moresby Explorers tour. It’s eclectic and definitely an interesting place to visit!

The other lodge is the Moresby Explorers floating lodge located just north of the park boundary in Crescent Inlet. The only way to stay here is to take part in a Moresby Explorers tour. The two-story floating lodge has simple bedrooms and shared bathrooms with flush toilets and running water. Unfortunately, they don’t have showers. But, the food is incredible!

What to Pack for Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

If you go on a tour in Haida Gwaii, they usually provide some gear. For boat tours, operators provide rain gear, rubber boots, and insulated float coats, which double as life jackets. Check with your tour operator to see what they provide and what they expect you to bring – most tours will give you a packing list.

In general, here are a few things you should pack for Gwaii Haanas National Park:

• Even if your tour gives you a float coat, you should still pack your own rain jacket. The float coats are heavy and warm, so you might want to walk around in your own rain jacket when you are on land.
• Warm layers. It can be cold in Haida Gwaii, especially out on the water. Bring long underwear and a warm fleece or lightweight puffy jacket.
• Quick-dry hiking clothing.
• Hiking boots or trail runners.
• Sunglasses
• Camera
• Binoculars
• Sunscreen
• Bathing suit and quick dry towel for Hot Springs Island

So that’s everything you need to know to plan a trip to Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii. This was an incredible bucket list experience for me and I’m sure it will be for you too!

READ NEXT:

• Things to Do in Haida Gwaii
• Tow Hill and the Blow Hole Hike in Haida Gwaii
• Pesuta Shipwreck Trail in Haida Gwaii
• Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC
• 20+ Things to do in Prince Rupert, BC
• Where to Experience Indigenous Tourism in Canada

The post The Ultimate Guide to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Now that I’ve been to Haida Gwaii, I can’t wait to go back. Everything I had heard about it was true… and somehow it was even more special than I had thought.

Since it’s a long way to go, planning a trip to Haida Gwaii can be intimidating. But it’s definitely worth the trip! In this post, I’ve got everything you might ever need to know about these magical islands.

This Haida Gwaii guide includes:

• Haida Gwaii basics: Where is it? Why visit? Best time to go? What’s the weather like? And lots more.
• Map of Haida Gwaii: It includes all the places I mention in this post.
• Best things to do in Haida Gwaii: Over 25 villages, parks, hikes, Indigenous sites, museums, activities and attractions.
• How to get to Haida Gwaii: Info on ferries and flights.
• Getting around on Haida Gwaii: Driving tips and info on car rentals, taxis, shuttle buses, and ferries.
• Hotels and B&Bs: My picks for where to stay all around the islands.
• Restaurants: Where to eat in each town or village.
• Tips for visiting Haida Gwaii: What I wish I had known before my trip

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Thanks so much for BC Ferries for hosting me on this trip. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

Haida Gwaii Basics

What’s with the name?

In the language of the Haida, the local Indigenous people, Haida Gwaii means “Islands of the Haida people.” It is pronounced “hy-dah gwhy”.

From 1787 to 2010, the islands were officially called the Queen Charlotte Islands, often nicknamed “the Charlottes”. You will still find this name on some maps.

Where is Haida Gwaii?

Haida Gwaii is located about 100 kilometres off the west coast of British Columbia, near the border with Alaska. There are two main islands: Graham Island (where most people live) and Moresby Island, along with about 400 smaller islands.

Why Visit Haida Gwaii?

Some of the reasons to visit Haida Gwaii include incredible Indigenous culture and art, a unique ecosystem, which has been called Canada’s Galapagos, opportunities to view wildlife (including bears and whales), old-growth forests, and great hiking, camping, kayaking, and fishing. I’ve got lots of info on all of this below.

How Long to Spend in Haida Gwaii

I would recommend spending a week in Haida Gwaii. That gives you enough time to see the highlights and to take a boat tour to Gwaii Haanas National Park. If you want to plan a shorter trip, 4-5 days would be the bare minimum. I spent 10 days on Haida Gwaii and honestly, I wish we had stayed for a few more days.

Best Time to Go to Haida Gwaii

The best time to go to Haida Gwaii is between May and September. Those are the months when the weather is nicest and most tours are running. If you visit outside of those months, you will find many businesses are closed.

While Haida Gwaii is never too crowded, it is much less busy in May and September than it is in June, July, and August. Most visitors come in the summer months. I went in June and we enjoyed mostly sunny weather. As well, most of the attractions were pretty quiet.

If you want to enjoy the best bird watching and whale watching, May and September are great since that’s when the birds and whales migrate through the islands. September is also a good month for wildlife watching as the salmon spawning season begins.

Weather in Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii has a coastal climate and is in northern British Columbia.

In general, it is fairly rainy. The driest months are May, June, and July. August and September are also relatively dry. October through February are very wet with 150-175 mm (6-7″) of rain each month. You should expect rain on any trip to Haida Gwaii, even in the summer.

July and August are the warmest months with daily temperatures of 10-18°C (50-64°F). May, June, and September are a little cooler. In the winter (November to March) temperatures are close to freezing – typically 1-7°C (34-45°F).

Cell Phone Coverage

You will find cell phone coverage in all of the major towns in Haida Gwaii and along most of the east coast of Graham Island. In many places, cell phone signal strength is too weak to use data. However, as soon as you leave the towns, you will likely lose service.

Indigenous Context

The Haida people have lived on Haida Gwaii since time immemorial. Pre-contact, there were tens of thousands of Haida spread over several dozen towns. When smallpox and other infectious diseases were introduced by European colonizers (perhaps deliberately), the population plummeted to around 600.

Today the Haida people make up half of the 5000-strong population of Haida Gwaii. Most Haida in Haida Gwaii live in Skidegate and Old Masset. There are also about 2,500 Haida living elsewhere in BC. There are also Haida villages in southern Alaska, another part of their traditional territory.

The Haida Nation collectively holds Hereditary and Aboriginal Title and Rights to Haida Territories and the government structure of Haida Gwaii incorporates the Council of the Haida Nation.

Haida culture permeates the entire region, even in areas dominated by settlers (non-Haida people). The Haida word for thank-you, haaw’a (pronounced how-ah), is something you will hear everyone saying. You should say it too!

Haida Gwaii and Gwaii Haanas National Park are one of the best places to experience Indigenous culture in Canada.

The Haida Gwaii Pledge

To help visitors respect this special place, the Haida Nation developed the Haida Gwaii Pledge. All visitors are encouraged to read and sign the pledge.

Haida Gwaii Map

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of Haida Gwaii for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post.

Best Things to Do in Haida Gwaii

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

The entire southern part of Haida Gwaii is protected in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. The park’s name means “Islands of Beauty” in the Haida language. Containing over 100 islands, the national park is known for its incredible scenery, wildlife, and Indigenous culture.

Since the park is only accessible by water, the best way to see it is on a tour. You can book kayak, sailing, or motorboat tours. Most tours are 3-7 days long as it’s a big area to cover. But you can book single-day tours that cover a few of the main sites. Be sure to book tours well in advance as they sell out.

I did a four-day tour with Moresby Explorers. We saw all of the major sites in the park and stopped and lots of remote beaches. I definitely recommend them.

Some of the most well-known and popular sites in Haida Gwaii are in Gwaii Haanas National Park. These Haida Heritage sites are protected by Haida Watchmen, members of the Haida Nation who provide important historical and cultural context.

For more info, check out my huge guide to Gwaii Haanas National Park. The main attractions in Gwaii Hanaas National Park include:

Wildlife Watching

Gwaii Hanaas National Park is known for its incredible wildlife. Grey and humpback whales migrate through the islands and orcas (killer whales), Minke whales, dolphins, porpoises, seals, and sea lions are year-round residents.

Haida Gwaii also has its own sub-species of black bears (Ursus americans carlottae). It’s a bit bigger than black bears in the rest of British Columbia since it lives on a high-fat diet of salmon and shellfish. Spotting black bears on the beaches is common.

The National Park is also a great place for bird watching. Parks Canada says about 1.5 million seabirds nest in the park. On my trip, we spotted lots of bald eagles, ancient murrelets, black oystercatchers, cormorants, and pigeon guillemots. But the highlight was a pair of tufted puffins!

SGang Gwaay

Located on Anthony Island near the southern tip of Gwaii Hannas National Park, SGang Gwaay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This Haida Village site still has many standing monumental poles (often incorrectly called totem poles), as well as the remains of many long houses.

K’uuna/Skedans

This is the northernmost of the Haida Village sites, making it the easiest to visit. It includes remains of long houses as well as a few carvings and poles.

T’aanuu (Tanu)

This Haida Village site has a few long house remains. It was low tide when we visited, and the watchmen pointed out an old octopus farm that the Haida had cleared out of the rocks. It is the ancestral village of famous the Haida carver, Bill Reid.

Hot Springs Island

Known as Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay in Haida, these hot springs have been used for generations by the Haida people. The pools mysteriously drained in 2012 following an earthquake, but today they are back and flowing into new pools. Bring your swimsuit so you can soak!

Windy Bay

Called Hlk’yah GawG̱a in Haida, this is an important site in the Haida protest movement that led to the creation of Gwaii Haanas National Park. The site includes a huge old-growth Sitka spruce and a modern monumental pole, raised to mark the anniversary of the founding of the park.

Haida Gwaii Museum

The huge Haida Gwaii Museum is a must-see for any visitor. Designed to look like a series of longhouses in a traditional Haida village, the sprawling museum is located inside the larger Haida Heritage Centre complex. It has wonderful displays about Haida history and culture.

You can find lots of historical and contemporary carvings, art, and poles, some of which have been returned to the Haida after being looted from ancient village sites and taken to museums around the world.

Plan to spend at least a few hours here. Some visitors prefer to visit the museum first, to give context to the rest of their time on Haida Gwaii. We went to the museum on our last day, and to me, it felt more powerful to see some of the art and historical displays in person after hearing about them earlier in our trip. That way we knew which pieces were most significant.

Naikoon Provincial Park

Naikoon Provincial Park covers the northernmost part of Haida Gwaii. The huge park has lots of hiking trails, beaches, and rainforests. A few sections of the park are accessible by car. But to get to most of the park you will need to hike.

Here’s a rundown of the park highlights:

Tow Hill and the Blowhole

Called Taaw Tldáaw in Haida, Tow Hill rises 125 meters above the otherwise flat coastal marsh of Naikoon Provincial Park. On the seaward side of the hill is a spectacular cliff with volcanic rocks. You can follow a short but steep hiking trail to the top of Tow Hill for spectacular views.

Tow Hill/Taaw Tldáaw is an important place in Haida culture and history. Plaques along the trail explain its significance.

You can also follow a flat and easy trail to the beach to look up at Tow Hill from below. This is also where you will find the Blow Hole. When the tides and waves are right, water splashes up from a chasm between the rocks. Tip: Go on a rising tide when there is moderate swell.

Read my Tow Hill hiking guide for all the details.

Hiellen Village

Hiellen Village isn’t actually in Naikoon Provincial Park, but it is next to Tow Hill and surrounded by the park. Today the campground and longhouse-style cabins are operated by the Haida Nation. The site is a historical Haida village and was a battleground for conflicts between the Haida and the Nisga’a.

The village is the starting point for hikes or drives on North Beach (see below). It also has a spectacular modern monumental pole.

North Beach and Rose Spit

Sandy North Beach (Gaatsguusd) stretches for about 10 kilometres north of Tow Hill to Rose Spit, which is the northernmost part of Haida Gwaii. You can hike, bike, ATV, or drive along the sand out to the Rose Spit Ecological Reserve, which protects a unique dune ecosystem.

You will see a lot of locals driving on the beach here. Don’t try it in a rental car, as you will violate your rental agreement. And if you are in your own car, be careful as it is easy to get stuck.

As well, the park has clear guidelines on where you can drive to protect the ecosystem. You must drive below the high tide line or on designated roads.

Rose Spit (Kadls Kun) is also a very important Haida site. In the Haida creation story, a raven opened a clam shell to release the first Haida at Rose Spit. This story is depicted in Haida Carver Bill Reid’s famous sculpture, The Raven and the First Men, on display at Vancouver’s Museum of Anthropology.

Agate Beach

When I was planning my trip to Haida Gwaii, lots of people told me I had to camp at Agate Beach and it did not disappoint. The steep gravel beach has incredible views of Tow Hill, the sunset, and even glaciers in Alaska (which are best seen through binoculars).

It’s also a popular spot for crab fishing. We met lots of locals and regular visitors who were wading through the surf at low tide, scooping up crabs with nets. I had never seen this style of crab fishing before (I’ve only ever used a trap), and wished we had bought gear to try it out.

Most of the campsites are right at the edge of the beach. If you don’t plan to camp, it’s worth visiting for a picnic.

East Beach, Cape Ball, and Cafe Fife

If you think North Beach is long, then check out East Beach. It’s over 70 kilometres long! The beach stretches between the village of Tlell and the tip of Rose Spit. The easiest way to see it is to hike the first section to the Pesuta Shipwreck (see below) or beyond to Cape Ball where there is a cabin and backcountry campsite.

But you can also hike the entire thing on the East Beach Trail, a 90-kilometre route that starts in Tlell, goes around Rose Spit, and then finishes at Tow Hill.

You can also reach East Beach by hiking the Cape Fife Trail across the interior of Naikoon Peninsula from North Beach near Tow Hill to Cape Fife on East Beach. There is a rustic cabin and campsite here too.

Pesuta Shipwreck

The hike along the Tlell River to East Beach and the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail is one of the most popular trails in Haida Gwaii. The flat hike has beautiful scenery and ends at a spectacular shipwreck, the remains of a log barge that was wrecked in 1928.

Read my Pesuta Shipwreck Trail guide for all the details.

Villages in Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii’s population is fairly small and is clustered into a few villages. You will likely end up visiting a few of them since that’s where you can find groceries, restaurants, gas stations, and hotels. But there are other things to see too.

Here’s a quick overview of what to see in each of Haida Gwaii’s Villages:

Sandspit

Sandspit is the only town on Moresby Island, the southern of Haida Gwaii’s two major islands. This is where you will find the Sandspit Airport with direct flights to Vancouver. It’s also the starting point for many tours to Gwaii Hanaas National Park. In Haida, Sandspit is known as K’il Kun.

With a population of about 300, there isn’t much going on in Sandspit. However, they do have a small grocery store, a gas station, and a golf course. The Sandspit Visitor Centre at the airport is also a helpful stop if you’ve just arrived.

The long beach is also great for a walk at low tide. Don’t miss the unique wood and cedar sculpture of a salmon near the airport. You can also follow the Spit Trail all the way around the perimeter of the airport.

On the drive to Sandspit from the ferry landing, stop at Onward Point to walk through the trees to a whale viewing platform.

Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte City)

With a population of about 1000, Daajing Giids is the largest town in Haida Gwaii. The town was known as Queen Charlotte City from the 1880s until 2022, and you will still find that name on some maps and signs.

But it reverted to its Haida name as part of the process of restoring traditional names on Haida Gwaii. Pronounced, “daw-jean geeds”, the name means cedar dance hat.

Daajing Giids has lots of services for visitors including a grocery store, gas station, and restaurants. If you are looking for art and gifts, head to Funk It. The visitor centre also has lots of helpful info as well as a good gift shop. I also loved looking at their big relief map of Haida Gwaii.

Be sure to enjoy the view from outside the visitor centre and check out the whale sculpture. Or head a few minutes west from town to Haydn Turner Park where you can follow a short trail through the forest to the beach.

Skidegate

Skidegate (HlGaagilda) is a large Haida community with a population of about 850. The grocery store and gas station are on the highway, but most of the village is tucked away between the highway and the ocean.

The village has a forest of monumental poles, which are neat to see. There is also a great gift shop called Longhouse Gift Shop.

When visiting Haida villages such as Skidegate and Old Masset, be respectful. Don’t take pictures without asking, especially pictures of people. Keep in mind that many monumental poles are memorial poles, erected to mark graves, and photography may not be appropriate.

The Haida Gwaii Museum is located just west of the village and the BC Ferries dock for ferries to Prince Rupert and Moresby Island is a few minutes past that at Skidegate Landing (GuhlGa Llnagaay).

Tlell

Unlike the other villages in Haida Gwaii, Tlell (spelled Tll.all in Haida) doesn’t really have a town centre. Instead, it is a cluster of houses, farms, and artist studios that spreads over a few kilometres close to the coast and the Tllel River. It has a population of about 180 people.

Tlell has a small store/cafe with limited hours, but no other services. The village is known for the Edge of the World Music Festival in August.

Tlell is at the southern end of Naikoon Provincial Park, so you will find the starting point for the Pesuta Shipwreck and East Beach hikes here along with the Misty Meadows Campground.

Port Clements

Located on the calm tidal waters of Masset Inlet, Port Clements is Haida Gwaii’s main logging town. It has a population of about 280 and has a grocery store, gas station/cafe, and a pub. In Haida, Port Clements is called Gamadiis.

The Port Clements Historical Society museum has a huge display of old logging machines on their grounds that you can visit anytime. Be sure to walk behind the building to check out the view of the harbour.

They also have a small museum building with lots of historical gadgets. They also have exhibits about the famous Port Clements white raven, an albino bird, and the Golden Spruce (see below).

Masset and Old Massett

Masset and Old Massett are two villages set side-by-side at the northern end of Haida Gwaii. Old Massett (Gaw Tlagee) has a population of about 550 and is a Haida village. Masset is a settler village and home to about 800 people.

Masset was a military base during WWII and the Cold War. Today it has an airport as well as a grocery store, gas station, and lots of businesses. They also have a small museum, the Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum, but it wasn’t open on the day I visited.

Old Massett is a few minutes northwest of Masset and like Skidegate, has a ton of monumental poles. Remember to be respectful when visiting and take photos ethically. Old Masset also has several gift shops and artist studios. We stopped at Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewellery. We wanted to stop at Gin Kuyaas Haida Art, but it was closed the day we visited.

Farmer’s Markets

Since Haida Gwaii’s artists and farmers are so spread out and have limited opening hours, the best way to shop for local goods is to visit a farmer’s market. As of 2023, the market schedule is as follows:

Sandspit: Sundays from 11am to 1pm, June to early September

Daajing Giids: Saturdays 11am to 2pm, year-round

Tlell: Sundays from 11am to 2pm, May to early October

Masset: Fridays from 11am to 2pm, year-round

Spirit Lake Trail

The Spirit Lake Trail is a short and easy hike near Skidegate. In Haida, it is called GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu. There is a beautiful carving at the entrance, which tells the story of a spirit (‘waasguu or wasgo) who lived in the lakes.

The trail makes loops around two lakes. There are interpretive signs along the way explaining the cultural and spiritual significance of plants and animals.

There are also several culturally modified trees where the Haida harvested cedar bark or made test holes in trees to see if they would make good canoes or monumental poles.

Balance Rock

One of Haida Gwaii’s most unique natural sites is Balance Rock. A boulder the size of a cube van balances precariously on the oceanside rocks. Retreating glaciers deposited the rock during the last ice age, a few thousand years ago.

Given the rock’s position on the shoreline and proximity to the waves, it is surprising that it has stayed balanced for all these years! The rock makes for a fun photo op. You can find it via a short trail from the highway just north of Skidegate.

Golden Spruce Trail

Known as Kiidk’yaas in Haida, the Golden Spruce was a Sitka spruce tree with a genetic mutation that made its needles gold instead of green. The tree was illegally cut down in 1997 as a protest against the logging industry.

The tree was the subject of The Golden Spruce, a very popular 2005 book by John Valliant and the 2015 documentary Hadwin’s Judgement, which my friend Yves Ma helped produce. It’s a fabulous story and I recommend either reading the book or watching the film before coming to Haida Gwaii.

While the Golden Spruce is long gone, rotting back into the forest, the Golden Spruce Trail is still a nice short hike. The trail is located just outside Port Clements and leads through a beautiful old-growth forest to the banks of the Yakoun River. Beautifully carved interpretive signs provide info on Haida culture.

Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary

If you visit in spring or fall, the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary near Masset is a must-see. It protects an intertidal wetland on the edge of town that is an important stop for migrating birds. There is also a Nature Centre where friendly volunteers can answer your questions.

On my June visit most of the migrating birds had already left, but we were able to watch some huge sandhill cranes and their babies feeding. There are walking trails around the sanctuary as well as several viewing platforms.

Other Hikes on Haida Gwaii

Even though I spent 10 days on Haida Gwaii, I still missed out on some good hikes. Here are a few trails that are on my list for my next visit:

Anvil Trail: A short, flat, and reportedly muddy loop hike through beautiful old-growth forest near Tlell.

Sleeping Beauty/Tarundl Trail: A challenging trail near Daajing Giids that leads to the top of 1000m-tall Mount Raymond.

Mount Moresby: At 1,164, Mount Moresby is the tallest mountain on Moresby Island. It’s an all-day hike to the summit from logging roads south of Sandspit.

Kayaking

Haida Gwaii is famous for its kayaking. Experienced kayakers can launch boats and set out on an independent expedition, but most paddlers opt to go with a guiding company.

Most kayak tours paddle a portion of the coastline in Gwaii Hanaas National Park – the park is too big to cover on a single trip!

If I go back to Haida Gwaii, a multi-day kayak tour is at the top of my list. I’ll probably go with Butterfly Tours. They are the sister company of At the Water’s Edge Adventures. I had a great tour with them in the Johnstone Strait on Vancouver Island. Green Coast Kayaking is another local company that gets great reviews.

Camping

Haida Gwaii is a popular spot for camping. Many travellers bring their RVs or tents and spend a week or more camping around the islands. There are quite a few campgrounds to choose from and none of them require reservations. Here’s a run-down of the best places to camp:

Agate Beach: Located near the northern tip of Haida Gwaii in Naikoon Provincial Park, most of the sites are beachfront and have incredible views. We loved our stay here.

Misty Meadows: Also in Naikoon Park, this campground is close to Tlell and the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail. It’s also a short walk to the beach. We camped here after hiking to the wreck.

Haydn Turner Park: Find this town-operated campground just outside Daajing Giids on the west side of town. The campsites are all in the forest, but it’s a short walk to the beach.

Moresby Camp: Accessed via gravel roads from Sandspit, this is the launch point for tours into Gwaii Haanas National Park. Run by Sites and Trails BC, the campground has incredible views of Cumshewa Inlet.

Other Campgrounds: There are several rustic campgrounds with few facilities accessed via gravel roads. Popular options include Kagan Bay near Daajing Giids, Mosquito Lake on Moresby Island, and Gray Bay on Moresby Island.

Fishing

Haida Gwaii is famous for its sport fishing. You can catch lingcod, halibut, and rockfish from mid-March to November. Salmon season is May to September for Chinook (King), Coho, Chum, Sockeye, and Pink Salmon.

You can book day-charters to go fishing in Haida Gwaii, but all-inclusive fishing lodges are also popular. I didn’t go fishing in Haida Gwaii, so I can’t recommend any particular company.

How to Get to Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii is a remote place. It’s 100 km off the northern coast of British Columbia. The only way to get there is to fly or take a ferry. I’ve got details on both below.

Ferries to Haida Gwaii

BC Ferries runs ferries from Prince Rupert on the mainland to Skidegate Landing on Haida Gwaii. The sailing takes about 7 hours. Be sure to make reservations well in advance if you are travelling with a vehicle because it sells out.

You can drive your car or RV onto the ferry or walk on. As of 2023, standard vehicles (under 20ft/6.1m) cost $154.10 and adults cost $43.45. Fares are slightly cheaper in the winter.

In the summer, there are six sailings a week. Most are daytime sailings, but there is one overnight sailing. In the fall, winter, and spring, there are three sailings a week, split between daytime and overnight sailings.

Most sailings are on the Northern Adventure. There is a cafeteria on board and you can book a cabin, which makes sleeping on overnight sailings much easier.

The crossing between Haida Gwaii and Prince Rupert goes through the Hecate Strait, which is very shallow. That means that rough water is common. The ferry has active fin stabilizers to make the voyage more comfortable. However, I recommend bringing seasickness medication just in case.

I took the ferry to and from Haida Gwaii and experienced sunny skies with calm seas. However, some of the people I met on my Gwaii Hanaas tour had taken the ferry a few days earlier and reported that many passengers were seasick.

Getting to Prince Rupert

The city of Prince Rupert is the departure point for ferries to and from Haida Gwaii. The ferry terminal is 10 minutes outside of town.

Psst! I recommend spending a few days in Prince Rupert – there are so many things to do!

Prince Rupert is about 17 hours by car from Vancouver. It’s a beautiful drive through the interior of British Columbia on well-maintained highways.

However, I recommend taking the Inside Passage ferry, which is even more scenic. The Inside Passage ferry leaves from Port Hardy on northern Vancouver Island and sails up the coast to Prince Rupert. The voyage takes about 16 hours and is renowned for its beauty. Whale sightings are common – we saw lots on our trip!

You can also fly to Prince Rupert from Vancouver, but it’s more efficient to fly directly to Haida Gwaii instead of taking the ferry to Haida Gwaii.

Flying to Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii has two airports: one at Sandspit on Moresby Island and one at Masset on the northern part of Graham Island.

Air Canada offers daily flights from the main terminal Vancouver International Airport to Sandspit. Pacific Coastal Airlines also offers daily flights from the south terminal of Vancouver Internal Airport to Masset. (The south terminal is a bus ride away from the main terminal.) Flights with both airlines cost $250-400 each way.

Inland Air Charters offers flights from Prince Rupert to Masset three days a week for about $320 each way. However, it only makes sense to take this flight if you plan to spend time in Prince Rupert. Otherwise, it’s easiest to fly from Vancouver.

Getting Around on Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii is not very big – there are only about 140 kilometres of paved highways and one ferry between the two main islands. With no public transportation on the islands, it’s easiest to drive yourself. Below I’ve got more info about rental cars, shuttle buses, taxis, and ferries.

Driving on Haida Gwaii

Driving is by far the easiest way to get around on Haida Gwaii. You can bring your own car on the ferry or rent one once you arrive.

It’s hard to get lost on Haida Gwaii since there are only 140 kilometres of paved highway and only one traffic light. Everything is well signed. The roads along the coast can be a little twisty, but they are easy to drive. Most roads are also fairly smooth.

There are also lots of logging roads and gravel roads on Haida Gwaii. Only two of the major attractions are on gravel roads: Tow Hill and the Golden Spruce Trail. These roads are well-graded for regular vehicle traffic.

If you plan to drive on other logging roads, drive with your lights on and go slow around corners. If you see a logging truck in front of you or behind you, pull over ASAP and let it pass – they have the right of way since they can’t brake suddenly. As well, read your rental agreement careful as many companies don’t allow logging road travel.

With poor cell coverage on most of the islands, you will need a map if you plan to venture off the paved roads. I recommend using the Gaia GPS app with the Backroads Mapbook layer. It shows all logging roads.

Renting a Car

There are several car rental companies on Haida Gwaii in Sandspit, Daajing Giids, Skidegate, and Masset.

Besides Budget Car Rental, all of the other rental companies are small local businesses. Some have online booking, but phone is best for most companies. And book in advance as they run out of cars in summer.

Most rental companies are located at the airport or offer a shuttle from the airport or ferry terminal to their office.

Keep in mind that you can’t take rental vehicles on gravel roads, as it will void your rental agreement. Some rental car companies have penalties (about $600) for driving off paved roads.

Rental car companies on Haida Gwaii include Budget (Sandspit and Daajing Giids), Island Auto Rentals – 250.559.4118 (Daajing Giids), Gwaii Adventure Campers (Daajing Giids), Gwaii Taxi and Tours (Skidegate), Masset Car and Truck Rentals (Masset), and Rustic Car Rentals – 250.626.3756 (Masset).

Taxis and Shuttle Buses

While Haida Gwaii has no public transportation, there are several local companies providing taxi and shuttle bus services. You can also book tours that include transportation between ferries, airports, hotels, and attractions.

Since Haida Gwaii is such a small place, the status of local operators changes often. It’s best to call and ask ahead of your trip to find out if shuttles or taxis will be available.

Local taxi and shuttle companies include Gwaii Taxi and Tours, Mile Zero Taxi, and Eagle Transit.

Ferries

There are two main islands in Haida Gwaii. Graham Island in the north is home to most of Haida Gwaii’s towns. Moresby Island in the south is where you will find Sandspit, but otherwise it is mostly undeveloped.

The only way between the two islands is via BC Ferries. The ferry goes between Skidegate Landing on Graham Island and Alliford Bay on Moresby Island. Alliford Bay is a 15-minute drive from Sandspit.

The ferry runs fairly often from early morning to late evening. Check the schedule carefully to make sure you don’t miss the last ferry of the day! The ferry does get behind schedule, but in that case, it will run on-demand, shuttling back and forth until the backlog is cleared.

The sailing takes 20 minutes and is on the Kwuna, which is an open-decked ferry that holds up to 16 vehicles. There is a small lounge for walk-on passengers, but most people stay in their cars.

You cannot reserve the ferry – it is first-come, first-served. As of 2023, standard vehicles (under 20 ft./6.1 m) are $22.20 and passengers are $9.55 each. Fares are return so you only have to pay when leaving Graham Island – you don’t have to pay if you are leaving from Alliford Bay.

Best Hotels and B&Bs in Haida Gwaii

The first thing to know about booking a hotel or other accommodation in Haida Gwaii is that there aren’t very many places to stay. The second thing to know is that many of them don’t have a big online presence so be prepared to book by phone.

Below I’ve got picks for where to stay in various spots around the archipelago.

Where to Stay in Sandspit

Seaport B&B: We stayed at this basic B&B before our Gwaii Hanaas tour. It has a fun communal atmosphere and a great view of the beach from the front deck. Check rates.

Hekate’s Retreat: A guesthouse nestled between an orchard and the gold course, a short walk from the beach. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte)

Premier Creek Lodging: This is the oldest hotel in Haida Gwaii and a favourite for returning guests. It has a gorgeous garden alongside a creek. Check rates.

Spruce Point Lodge: The only waterfront hotel in Daajing Giids. It has motel-style rooms with breakfast delivered each morning. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Skidegate

Jag’s Coffee Shop & Guest Rooms: We loved our stay here! (We actually stayed twice – one night at the beginning of our trip and another night at the end.) It’s right next to the best coffee shop and bakery on the islands. The rooms are modern and clean. I think it’s the best non-luxury place to stay in Haida Gwaii. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Tlell

Haida House at Tllaal: This luxury resort is run by the Haida Nation and is the nicest place to stay in Haida Gwaii. You also have the option of booking an all-inclusive package that includes tours. Check rates.

Haida Gwaii Glamping Co.: Camp without roughing it at these adorable glamping tents which include bathrooms and decks. They are located right on the beach. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Port Clements

The Blue House: This funky two-bedroom vacation rental is right on the ocean and has great views from both the deck and the bedroom. The decor is also pretty fun. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Masset

Gwaii Naay Island House: Owned by the Haida Nation, this guest house is within walking distance of everything in Masset. It has a shared kitchen if you want to prepare your own meals. Check rates.

All the Beach You Can Eat: Fun off-the-grid cabins on North Beach in between Masset and Naikoon Provincial Park. Each cabin was hand-made out of custom-milled driftwood. Check rates.

Best Restaurants in Haida Gwaii

Just like with hotels, there aren’t that many restaurants in Haida Gwaii. As well, many are open only a few days a week. To avoid disappointment, call ahead to confirm hours and make a reservation.

There may be some days when there are no restaurants open in a town. Make sure you visit the grocery store and stock up on snacks or ready-to-eat foods just in case.

Sandspit

The Clubhouse at Hekate’s Retreat: They have a great patio overlooking the golf course. My friends said they had a great dinner here and the burgers were good. Note: This is often the only place open for dinner in Sandspit.

Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte City)

The Village Hearth: I loved my dinner at this small restaurant. They have a small and eclectic menu that seems to change often and draws from many different cuisines. I had Korean-style beef shortribs that were amazing. They also have great cocktail options. Ask for a patio table to enjoy the view.

Blacktail: The food here was really well executed and much higher end than I expected to find in Haida Gwaii. I had some incredible mushroom pasta and my husband loved the pork loin. Order their sourdough focaccia to start – sooo good.

Gather: We didn’t call early enough to get a table at Gather, but we heard so many good things about it from locals and other travellers. They have an Italian-influenced menu that looks really tasty.

Skidegate

Jag’s Coffee: We loved Jag’s so much that we ate there three times! They have the best coffee on Haida Gwaii along with great baked goods. I also loved their breakfast and sandwiches. My fave was the pastrami bagel.

Keenawaii’s Kitchen: I wish we had booked a table in advance because I’m sad we didn’t get to eat there. Chef Roberta Olson makes traditional Haida meals using local, wild-harvested ingredients. It sounds amazing!

Tlell

Haida House at Tllall: Make a reservation in advance to eat at this high-end restaurant. We didn’t eat here, but other travellers told us that the seafood was delicious.

Port Clements

The Axe & Anchor Pub: This is a great pub with an incredible patio. The food was pretty standard for pub food, but well executed and the service was really friendly. I had a great quesadilla and my friends said the burgers were great.

Masset

The 626: Located right across from the Coop grocery store, this little restaurant is a small building, food truck, and deck cobbled together. But it’s worth a visit for the best fish and chips in Haida Gwaii. They also have fish tacos, pizza, and delectably thick milkshakes. (Their name comes from the fact that most phone numbers in Masset start with “626”.)

Tips for Visiting Haida Gwaii

Visiting Haida Gwaii was the trip of a lifetime for me, and that’s the case for a lot of people. I did a lot of research before I went, but there were still a few surprises. Here are my top tips for visiting Haida Gwaii:

• Make ferry, flight, tours, restaurant and accommodation reservations well in advance. There is limited availability and things get booked up.
• If you want to wing it a little, plan to camp. There is lots of camping available, you don’t need to make reservations, and it doesn’t seem to fill up.
• Check restaurant and grocery store opening hours carefully. Most places are only open for a few hours each day and some are only open a few days a week. Call businesses to confirm because business hours listed on Google often aren’t correct.
• Pack warm and waterproof clothing. Haida Gwaii’s climate is wet and a little chilly, even in summer.
• Stop into the visitor centres at Daajing Giids, Masset, or Sandspit. They can help you plan your trip and answer questions. You can also pick up a copy of This is Haida Gwaii, the annual tourist brochure. It has great maps and a helpful section on the monumental poles you can see around the islands, including an explanation of the carvings on each one.
• Learn a bit about Haida culture before you arrive to be respectful. There is a good suggested reading list and other info on the Take the Haida Gwaii pledge website. Listen carefully when Haida people speak – we are visitors on their land.
• Ask before taking pictures of Haida poles, art, and buildings, especially when taking pictures of people. Photos are allowed in most places, but it’s polite to ask first.
• Many visitors don’t realize that many monumental poles (commonly called totem poles) are actually memorial poles, raised to mark someone’s death. Give these poles the same respect you would give a graveyard or other memorial.
• Remember to say haw’aa (thank-you in Haida) to everyone you meet.

So that’s everything you need to know to plan a trip to Haida Gwaii. I hope you enjoy your trip as much as I loved mine. I just need to figure out when I can go back!

READ NEXT:

• The Ultimate Guide to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve
• Tow Hill and the Blow Hole Hike in Haida Gwaii
• Pesuta Shipwreck Trail in Haida Gwaii
• 20+ Things to do in Prince Rupert, BC
• Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC
• Things to do in the Nass Valley (Nisga’a Territory) in Northern BC
• Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island
• Where to Experience Indigenous Tourism in Canada

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