I’ve been hiking and backpacking for two decades (I even wrote a hiking guidebook) and have tried a lot of different technical outdoor clothing, including lots of Merino wool. I also spent seven years working at the head office of a large Canadian outdoor brand. While I was there, I worked closely with the design and fabric teams and wrote staff training material. So I have a pretty good grasp on outdoor fabric technologies.

In this article, I’ll break down the pros and cons of Merino wool so you can decide if it’s worth it for you. This Merino wool guide includes:

• Is Merino wool worth it? My quick answer
• What is Merino wool? How is it different than regular wool
• Merino wool pros and cons plus some neutral factors where wool is equivalent to other fabrics
• Which Merino wool clothing is worth it? Should you buy Merino socks, shirts, base layers, and more.
• Merino wool tips: My advice for buying merino, taking care of it, and repairing it
• Comparing Merino wool to other fabrics: How does it stack up to polyester, regular wool, alpaca, and more
• Merino wool FAQ: Answers to common questions like is Merino good for summer and does it shrink

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Is Merino Wool Worth it?

My short answer: Most of the time, no.

The longer answer: Merino wool is a fabulous high-performance fabric. But it’s not magic. In many ways, Merino wool is comparable to high-tech polyester fabrics. The only place where Merino clearly outperforms is its ability to resist odors.

Some people really love the feel and performance of Merino. And if that’s you, and you find the expense and lack of durability of Merino don’t deter you, that’s great. If you love, Merino, keep on loving it.

But I think that a lot of people get sucked in by the premium price and slick marketing of Merino wool. They assume that because it is expensive, it must be the best. I’ve talked to lots of people who bought into the hype, then fell out of love with Merino after using it for a few years, mostly due to its lack of durability and high price.

If you are comparing a cheap big box store base layer to Merino wool, of course, Merino wool is going to be better. But if you compare Merino wool to high-end performance synthetic fabrics from innovative outdoor apparel companies, you’ll find that the synthetics provide equal or better performance at a cheaper price and with better durability.

What is Merino Wool?

Merino wool is the wool from a breed called Merino sheep. Although Merino sheep are originally from Spain, today they are found all over the world (and most famously, in Australia and New Zealand).

Merino wool is much softer and finer than regular wool. That means it is more comfortable to wear since it is less scratchy. The individual fibres of regular wool can be up to 40 microns in diameter. But Merino wool is always less than 24 microns. Premium fine Merino wool can go as low as 15 microns in diameter.

Merino wool is most often used for technical outdoor clothing. However, you can also find it in high-end casual sweaters and blankets.

Merino Wool Pros and Cons

Some people talk about Merino wool as if it is a miracle fabric. And it does indeed have lots of positive characteristics. However, there are also some negatives, which for some people (like me) often outweigh the positives.

Here’s my breakdown of the pros and cons of Merino wool. I’ve also included a few “neutral” factors – these are areas where Merino wool provides better performance than non-technical fabrics like cotton but has equivalent performance to technical fabrics like polyester.

Pro: Anti-Microbial

Merino wool is naturally anti-microbial. That means that it doesn’t get as stinky and odor-causing particles won’t build up in it over time like they can in synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon. (Read my guide to getting the smell out of hiking gear for info on how that happens.)

Since Merino wool is less smelly, it’s a great choice for multi-day backpacking or situations where you can’t or don’t want to wash your gear as often. When I used to commute to work by bike, I wore a Merino wool shirt that I washed once or twice a week instead of every day.

But… Merino wool can still get stinky over time, especially if it is blended with nylon or elastane. It’s not magic. It just takes way longer to develop that signature hiker stank than other fabrics.

Pro: Temperature Regulation and Breathability

Merino wool is naturally thermo-regulating. That means that it can help you feel cool when it’s hot out and provide warmth when it’s cold. This sounds crazy, but there’s actually science behind it.

Wool fibres are crimped, which creates little air pockets. In cold weather, these air pockets trap warm air and hold it close to you. When it’s hot out, wool pulls moisture and heat from your body. As the wool dries and releases the moisture, the crimps trap cold air, keeping you cool.

Many people love Merino wool because they can wear the same Merino wool clothing in both summer and winter. The temperature-regulating properties of Merino wool also mean that you are less likely to need to add and remove layers as the temperature changes on a hike.

However, it is worth mentioning that there are lots of innovative premium synthetic fabrics that can compete with Merino on temperature regulation. But there are also lots of crappy synthetics too.

Pro: Warm for its Weight

The natural air pockets that give Merino wool its temperature-regulating properties also mean that it can provide more warmth for its weight than other fabrics. (Although the construction of some synthetic fabrics can mimic the air pocket structure and perform just as well.)

The excellent warmth-to-weight ratio means that you can choose thinner Merino wool garments than their synthetic counterparts.

Neutral: Next to Skin Comfort

You might hear Merino wool described as being comfortable to wear or soft against your skin. That is certainly true, especially when you compare it to traditional wool.

But it’s not any softer or more comfortable than some other technical fabrics like polyester. (Of course this depends a lot on the specific technical fabric. I find Merino wool much more comfortable than the polyester in my Outdoor Research Echo Sun Hoodie. But I also like the feel of my soft Mountain Hardware Crater Lake Sun Hoodie more than the feel of Merino wool. (I reviewed both of these in my guide to the best sun hoodies for hiking.)

Some people prefer the way Merino feels on their skin, but some still find it a tiny bit itchy.

Neutral: Provides Warmth When Wet

Merino wool still provides insulation even when it is wet. By itself, that sounds like a pro, and Merino wool cheerleaders often list “warmth when wet” as one of Merino wool’s strengths. But it’s only a pro if you compare Merino to cotton, since cotton makes you colder when you are wet. Synthetic fabrics also provide warmth when they are wet, so Merino doesn’t have a leg up over other technical outdoor fabrics.

Neutral: Moisture Wicking

Here is another neutral factor that masquerades as a pro. Yes, Merino wool does a good job of wicking moisture away from your skin thanks to the unique air pocket-forming structure of the wool fibres. But many technical synthetic fabrics are comparable when it comes to wicking, so it’s not a true pro. (However, some synthetics achieve high wicking performance via chemical finishes that wash out over time, so it’s not an easy comparison to make.)

Neutral: Ethical and Sustainability Issues

Merino wool is an animal product, so it is not vegan-friendly.

It is also important to know there have been issues around animal cruelty associated with Merino wool production. Some Merino sheep farmers subject their animals to mulesing, a painful practice that removes strips of skin around the anus. Mulesing protects the sheep from flystrike infections. It is done without anesthetic and is considered inhumane and unethical. Most developed countries no longer permit mulesing.

Before you buy a Merino wool garment, check to see if the manufacturer has a statement about the treatment of the sheep they source their wool from. You can also check to see if there are measures in place to prevent overgrazing and the excessive use of pesticides. There are many reputable and ethical Merino wool brands on the market including Smartwool, Icebreaker, Darn Tough, Ibex, Patagonia, Ridge Merino, and Woolx.

However, it’s worth pointing out that there are ethical issue around polyester too. It’s made from petroleum, which isn’t a renewable resource (unlike wool). And given the current climate crisis, fossil fuel extraction is something we should be moving away from rather than increasing

As well, fleecy fabrics release microplastics, which is a big problem when they are washed as it ends up in our waterways and oceans.

If you are concerned about the sustainability of your clothing, buying used base layers is the best choice.

Con: Doesn’t Dry Quickly

Merino wool is often touted as being great at moisture-wicking since it can absorb more moisture than other fabrics. The “moisture-wicking” part of that sentence is a pro. But the “absorb” part is a con because Merino wool really hangs on to moisture. It can take 40% longer for a Merino wool garment to dry compared to a synthetic one.

I sweat a lot (in all temperatures and during all activities). Merino wool just stays wet way too long for me. It takes forever to dry, and in the meantime, it’s heavy and gross.

Con: Durability

Unfortunately, Merino wool has a poor track record when it comes to durability. The fibres of Merino wool are very fragile. That means they are prone to ripping, tearing, and snagging. Even high-quality Merino wool garments are likely to develop holes.

There are a few things you can do to maximize the life of your Merino wool clothing. Garments that use a blend of Merino wool and synthetic fabrics are much stronger and last longer. I have lots of Merino wool socks from Darn Tough and Smartwool that have lasted years since they use a Merino wool/nylon blend.

You also have to be really careful with your Merino wool. Snags on zippers, watch straps, backpack buckles, jewellery, and belts are common ways to get holes. But friction holes are sometimes unavoidable, especially in the armpits and crotch.

Con: Special Washing Required

Merino wool requires special washing and drying. Like all wool, it shrinks if it is heated too much, which means it needs to be washed in cold water and hung to dry.

Due to its poor durability, it also is best to wash Merino wool clothing on the delicate cycle. I also always wash my Merino wool by itself to protect it. I don’t allow zippers, buttons, Velcro, or buckles in the washing machine with my Merino!

While it isn’t required, it is a good idea to use a wool-specific laundry detergent (like Nikwax Wool Wash). Regular detergent can strip the wool of its natural wicking properties and can contribute to pilling. Avoid enzyme cleaners at all costs as they can actually break down the fibres in Merino wool. (More tips in my guide to washing hiking gear.)

Con: Expensive

If you’ve ever shopped for Merino wool gear, you have probably been shocked by how expensive it is. Close to $100 for a t-shirt?? What?! Yup, Merino wool prices are crazy.

While there are billions of sheep in the world, most are raised for their meat or for regular wool. Merino sheep are a specialized breed and there just aren’t that many of them. It costs a lot more to raise a sheep than it does to harvest a plant or make fabric from petroleum. As well, the fine fibres of Merino wool mean that you need more of them to make fabric.

And while Merino wool is a natural fibre, it still needs to be heavily processed before it is turned into clothing. The fibres are extensively cleaned to remove dirt, impurities, and lanolin (a greasy substance that naturally occurs in sheep’s wool.)

Which Merino Wool Clothing is Worth It?

My answer to whether Merino wool is worth it depends on what kind of clothing you’re talking about. For things like socks, I recommend it 1000%. For shirts, base layers, underwear, and mid-layers, the answer is a bit more nuanced.

Are Merino Wool Socks Worth It?

Yes! I swear by Merino wool hiking socks.

Since socks need to be extra durable, Merino wool socks are usually expertly blended with nylon and elastane. This means that you get the anti-microbial and temperature-regulating properties of Merino. But you also get better durability thanks to the nylon. And you get the wicking power of both Merino and nylon – it dries quicker than Merino alone.

I hike exclusively in Merino wool blend socks. My favourites are the Smartwool Hike Light Cushion Crew Sock and the Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew Lightweight Hiking Sock.

Are Merino Hiking Shirts Worth It?

Yes, but only for some people.

Many hikers love wearing Merino wool hiking shirts. They love the temperature regulation that Merino provides. And the anti-microbial properties of Merino make it ideal for backpacking trips when you don’t want to stink day after day.

However, when you wear a Merino wool hiking shirt, the poor durability of Merino wool becomes pretty apparent. And if you sweat a lot when you hike (like me) then you will find yourself soaking wet a lot of the time because Merino wool shirts absorb more water than synthetics and take longer to dry.

I think Merino wool hiking shirts are great for backpacking and for people who don’t sweat too much. They are also great for people who are careful with their gear.

Smartwool’s standard Merino Short Sleeve Tee is a really popular choice for a Merino hiking shirt. My husband has three of them and loves them. He likes that they don’t stink.

I have an Odlo Kinship Performance Wool long sleeve top that I love for cold weather hiking. It’s a wool/polyester/nylon blend that hits the sweat spot of performance for me. (Read my review in my fave gear of 2023 post.)

Are Merino Base Layers Worth It?

Yes, but only for some people.

The main purpose of a base layer (also known as thermals) is to move moisture away from your skin. Base layers also add warmth through insulation. (However, most of your warmth should come from your mid-layer.)

The thermo-regulation of Merino wool base layers is great for stop-and-start activities like skiing where you generate a lot of heat, but then slow down or stop for long periods and get cold.

Merino’s high warmth-to-weight ratio makes it great for base layers since you can get more warmth with less bulk. I usually sleep in Merino wool base layers when backpacking since they are smaller to pack.

However, for those who sweat a lot, Merino isn’t a good choice for active base layers since they absorb more moisture and take longer to dry.

Durability is also a factor with base layers – the repetitive rubbing of base layers against mid and outer layers in your crotch and armpits leads to pilling and holes far faster with Merino wool than with synthetic fabrics.

Merino wool base layers are great for skiing as long as you don’t run too hot and are ok with the durability issues. They also are great for sleeping in. Otherwise, I think synthetic base layers perform just as well so there isn’t any reason to spend more money on Merino wool.

I love my Smartwool Classic Thermal Base Layer Bottoms for sleeping on backpacking trips since they are lightweight, cozy, and come in fun prints. For snowshoeing, I wear Smartwool Intraknit Thermal Base Layers since they combine Merino and polyester for faster drying times.

Is Merino Wool Underwear Worth It?

Not really.

I’ve heard lots of rave reviews about Merino wool underwear. (And I included a few Merino wool pairs in my guide to the best hiking underwear since some hikers swear by them.) People love it for the same reason they love Merino wool hiking shirts – they are great at temperature regulation and they don’t stink.

But if you sweat a lot, Merino wool underwear is a disaster since it holds moisture, which can lead to uncomfortable chafing. Merino wool undies are also notorious for getting tons of holes. They often lose their shape a lot faster than synthetics too.

Lots of Merino wool underwear is heavily blended with nylon and elastane to increase durability and dry quicker. This is especially true of sports bras, which need to fit tightly. Some underwear and sports bras marketed as Merino wool contain less than 30% Merino wool… but still carry a full Merino wool price tag! Shop carefully.

If you love the feel of Merino wool and think the expense of Merino underwear is worth it, that’s great. But I don’t think Merino wool underwear is a great option for most people – if you are buying a $40 pair of undies, they shouldn’t get holes, bag out, and chafe your butt!

The only merino wool underwear I can recommend are the Branwyn Essential, although I find they are better for cold weather or less sweaty trips. But the highest rated Merino wool underwear are the women’s Icebreaker Merino Siren and Men’s Icebreaker Anatomica. If you want a Merino sports bra, I like the Smartwool Intraknit Strappy Bra – but keep in mind that it is only 28% wool and can definitely can get stinky. (Mine is a bit gross.)

Are Merino Wool Mid-Layers Worth It?

No. Synthetics greatly outperform Merino in this category.

Merino performs best when you wear it next to your skin to wick sweat and absorb heat. Merino wool does work as a mid-layer for insulation, but it doesn’t work any better than fleece, synthetic insulation, or down. And you need a much thicker wool mid-layer to get the equivalent warmth that you’d get with fleece, down, or synthetic insulation.

If you like the feel of wool, a blended wool and polyester fleece is a nice option for a casual mid-layer. But it will be heavier than a pure synthetic, dry slower, and be more expensive.

I have an older Smartwool Smartloft Jacket that I got years ago when I was a Smartwool brand amabassador. It has a Merino wool interior that is cozy, especially when layered over a short sleeved shirt. But I don’t find it as versatile to wear as a fleece.

Are Merino Wool Toques/Beanies Worth It?

Yes, if you don’t have sensitive skin.

I love my Smartwool Merino Beanie (called a toque here in Canada) – I’m wearing it in the photo above. It is really warm for the weight, so it doesn’t take up tons of space in my pack. Since I won’t be sweating much when I wear it, I don’t have to worry about it not drying quickly.

However, if you have sensitive skin, you might find that Merino wool itches your forehead a bit. In that case, a grid fleece hat like the Outdoor Research Trail Mix Beanie is a better option. It has the same warmth-to-weight as Merino wool.

Merino Wool Tips

From what to look for when shopping for Merino to how to wash and repair it, here are my top Merino wool tips:

• Choose the right Merino wool weight for your activity: Merino comes in weights from ultra-fine/ultralight light to heavy-weight. Lighter weights are good for warmer weather and more vigorous activity compared to heavier weights. Some brands list the grams per square metre (gsm) weight of the fabric. Look for around 150gsm for lightweight, year-round layers and 250-300gsm for extra warm winter layers.
• Get a close fit: To benefit from Merino wool’s thermoregulating properties, Merino clothing needs to fit close to the skin. It can’t be too baggy.
• Consider Merino wool blends: Merino wool blended with nylon, polyester and/or elastane is more durable, stretchier, and absorbs a bit less water than pure Merino. Some budget brands mix Merino with nylon to bring prices down. But other performance brands like Smartwool, Icebreaker and Odlo, mix Merino wool with other fabrics in innovative ways that boost function and fit. Pay attention to the percentages. You want at least 50% Merino, or else it’s not worth buying. If you prioritize the benefits of Merino but want more durability, look for 80-90% Merino.
• Buy from a brand that specializes in Merino: For the best performance, buy from a Merino wool brand like Smartwool or Icebreaker or an outdoor brand that makes lots of base layers like Patagonia, Odlo, Helly Hansen, and Arc’teryx. They will have the best fit, seam placement, and fabric blends. You can buy cheap Merino base layers from Costco, etc. but in my experience, they are poor quality and don’t last very long.
• Wash Merino carefully. If you baby your Merino wool, it will last. For the longest lifespan, always wash on delicate with wool-specific detergent (like Nikwax Wool Wash) and hang to dry. The care label might say regular wash and tumble dry is ok, but that’s because they don’t want to scare you off buying Merino. Trust me, stick with the delicate cycle and hang dry no matter what.
• Repair your Merino. Holes are inevitable, but that doesn’t mean you have to throw away your gear. Even if you are a terrible sewer, a few minutes with a needle and thread is all it takes to fix a small hole. For big ones, I sew on patches made from a pair of retired Merino base layer bottoms that was beyond repair.

Comparing Merino Wool to Other Fabrics

Most marketing material touts the performance values of merino wool, but doesn’t tell you how Merino stacks up in comparison to other common outdoor fabrics. I pitted Merino wool and against several other outdoor fabrics commonly used for base layers and hiking shirts.

Merino Wool vs Polyester

Merino wool wins over polyester in a few categories, but definitely not all of them. It’s important to note that there are tons of types of polyester fabric on the market. Higher-end tech fabrics with branded names will out-perform cheap unbranded polyester.

Merino wool is naturally anti-microbial, while polyester is prone to getting stinky. You can buy polyester with anti-odor properties, but it’s either a finish that washes out, or very expensive if it’s embedded in the garment.

For a lot of polyester fabrics, whether it is better than Merino or not, really depends on the type of polyester. In general, Merino is equivalent to or better than some (but not all) polyester fabrics when it comes to breathability, temperature regulation, warmth for weight, next-to-skin comfort, warmth when wet, and moisture-wicking.

All polyester will work better than Merino wool when you compare quick drying, durability, price, and washing instructions.

Merino Wool vs. Regular Wool

For hiking and other outdoor sports, Merino wool beats regular wool in pretty much every category except durability and price. It has better temperature regulation, breathability, next-to-skin comfort, and wicking than regular wool. Merino wool and regular wool score about the same when it comes to warmth for weight, warmth when wet, quick drying, and washing instructions.

Merino Wool vs. Polypropylene

Polypropylene is similar to polyester, but a bit less common. It wicks better, dries faster, and costs less than both polyester and Merino wool. It also gets stinky incredibly easily.

Polypropylene was commonly used in base layers in the 1990s but it is less prevalent now. Helly Hansen makes a lot of polypropylene base layers, some of which they blend with Merino wool. Choose polypropylene over wool if wicking and quick drying are your primary concerns and you can live with the stink.

Merino Wool vs. Modal/Tencel/Lyocell/Viscose/Rayon

Modal, Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, and rayon are all semi-synthetic fabrics made from wood pulp. Some are softer and more eco-friendly than others (which makes them cost more.) They don’t provide any warmth. These fabrics don’t wrinkle and feel really soft (even softer than Merino), but they aren’t as good at wicking or quick-drying compared to Merino wool or synthetics. None of these fabrics are very good for outdoor clothing.

Merino Wool vs. Alpaca

Alpaca wool fabric is made from the wool of alpacas, a relative of the llama that lives in the South American mountains. Currently, most alpaca garments on the market are intended more for casual wear than for hiking or other outdoor activities. As well, most alpaca garments are heavily blended with other fabrics like nylon for durability or Tencel for softness.

Alpaca wool is softer than Merino. It is also a bit more durable, but still very fragile compared to synthetics. Alpaca is a bit warmer than Merino since its structure creates larger air pockets. (Alpacas need to stay warm in the chilly Andes Mountains!) Alpaca also retains a bit less water than Merino (but still doesn’t dry as fast as polyester or polypropylene).

The alpaca market is still growing so there will likely be a lot of options available in the next few years. But for now, most alpaca products are not high-tech enough for hikers.

Merino Wool vs. Cashmere

Cashmere is made from the wool of Kashmir goats that live in Afghanistan, China, India, Iran, and Iraq. While cashmere is warmer and softer than Merino, it doesn’t beat Merino in any other category. Cashmere is less durable, harder to wash, and more expensive. As well, cashmere is typically only used in casual wear, not in technical outdoor clothing.

Merino Wool FAQ

Let me answer some of the most common questions about Merino wool:

Is Merino Wool itchy?

No. Most people do not find Merino wool itchy, especially compared to regular wool. However, some people still find Merino wool a tiny bit itchy compared to other fabrics. Merino wool blends are less itchy than pure Merino wool.

Is Merino Wool Soft?

Yes. Merino wool is very soft, especially compared to regular wool. However, it can feel a tiny bit rougher than super soft fabrics like Modal or even some types of polyester.

Is Merino Wool Warm?

Yes. Merino wool provides great warmth for its weight compared to other fabrics. However, it is also naturally temperature regulating, which makes it great in a range of temperatures.

Is Merino Wool Good for Winter?

Yes. Merino wool base layers can provide lots of warmth, especially mid- and heavy-weight Merino (200-300gsm). However, you will still need insulating mid-layers on top of your Merino.

Is Merino Wool Good For Summer?

Yes. Merino wool is great for temperature regulation so lightweight Merino wool pieces (150gsm) work well in the summer. However, keep in mind that Merino wool doesn’t dry as quickly as synthetics, so if you sweat a lot, you might not like Merino wool for summer use.

Is Merino Wool Washable?

Yes. But it has special washing instructions. To make your Merino wool last, it is best to wash it in cold water on the delicate cycle, use wool-specific detergent, and hang it to dry. The care label on some Merino wool clothing says you can wash it on the regular cycle and tumble dry. But I don’t recommend it unless the Merino is blended with another fabric (for example Merino wool blend hiking socks).

Does Merino Wool Shrink?

Yes. Like most wool, if you wash it in hot water or put it in the dryer, it will shrink at least a little bit. But if you wash it in cold water and hang to dry, it won’t shrink.

Is Merino Wool Expensive?

Yes, compared to other fabrics, Merino wool is quite expensive. That is because Merino wool is expensive to produce – raising and shearing sheep is more expensive than growing cotton or processing petroleum.

So that’s my big explanation of why I think Merino wool isn’t always worth it. I’m sure some of you will disagree, and that’s ok. I’ll be the first one to say that Merino wool is an awesome fabric. It’s just not always the best one to choose for every application.

Do you have more Merino wool questions? Ask them in the comments.

READ NEXT:

• How to Get the Smell Out of Hiking Clothes
• Why Do Rain Jackets Wet Out?
• My Favourite Hiking Gear – 2023 Edition
• Best Hiking Underwear For Women and Men
• 20+ Ways to Reduce Your Backpack Weight

The post Is Merino Wool Worth It? Pros and Cons appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I’ve been winter hiking and snowshoeing for over 20 years. I also used to work at the head office of a large outdoor retailer where I wrote about hiking gear, including writing staff training materials. So I’ve got a fair amount of winter knowledge to share.

This guide to winter traction devices includes:

• A comparison chart for microspikes, crampons and snowshoes showing their strengths and weaknesses
• Microspikes: What are they? When to use them? And my picks for the best microspikes.
• Crampons: What are they? When to use them? And my picks for the best crampons.
• Snowshoes: What are they? When to use them? And my picks for the best snowshoes.
• Other winter traction devices: A quick overview of other traction devices including Yaktrax, STABILicers and more and how they stack up against microspikes.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Microspikes vs. Crampons vs. Snowshoes Comparison Chart

Microspikes

Best for: Hiking or trail running on packed snow or icy trails

Pros: Inexpensive, lightweight, can be worn with any footwear, good traction, easy to take on and off

Cons: Not safe for steep slopes, don’t provide flotation in deep snow, not as durable

What are microspikes?

The term “microspikes” can mean a lot of things. It gets even more confusing because even though “microspikes” is actually a trademarked name from Kahtoola, people tend to refer to all similar products as microspikes. (It’s kind of like how everyone calls adhesive bandages band-aids, even if they aren’t made by Band-Aid brand.)

In general, microspikes have a flexible rubber-like plastic harness that stretches to fit around all kinds of boots and shoes. Some also have a velcro toe strap.

On the bottom, they have metal teeth connected by stainless steel chains. The teeth are usually fairly short (less than 1/2″/1.25 cm). You can wear microspikes with flexible footwear like trail runners since the metal chains aren’t rigid.

Heads up: You might see products with a stretchy harness and then studs or just chains on the bottom. These are NOT microspikes. While these go by a lot of other names, they provide less traction. More on these in the Other Traction Devices section below.

When to use microspikes?

Microspikes are best suited to hard-packed snow or icy trails. They excel on flat and low-angle terrain – they don’t provide enough secure grip for steep slopes, especially where a fall could be dangerous. The spikes on microspikes also aren’t very long. That means that if there is a thin layer of snow over ice, the spikes might not be long enough to bite into the ice.

I think microspikes are great for winter trail running and hiking. The spikes are fairly durable, which means you can wear them for short periods on bare dirt.

I keep my microspikes in my backpack for winter trips when I expect freezing temperatures. They are good to have when conditions are too slippery for hiking boots.

I also bring them snowshoeing as they are much more secure in steep terrain than snowshoes. (More on that in the snowshoes section below.) In hard-packed snow, they are also much more comfortable to wear than snowshoes since you have a more natural stance.

Check trail conditions before you go to figure out if microspikes are the right choice. My guide to how to find trail conditions has lots of resources.

My picks for the best microspikes

I have both the original Kahtoola Microspikes and Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultra (which despite the name are NOT crampons). They are both great, but I have a slight preference for the Hillsounds since they have a velcro toe strap, which improves the fit.

Other good microspike options include Black Diamond Access Spikes and Black Diamond Distance Spikes.

There are lots of cheap knock-off microspikes on Amazon. The reviews on them aren’t great – lots of people say that the spikes bend and the plastic harnesses rip. But if you want budget microspikes, the best ones on Amazon are the Cimkiz microspikes.

Crampons

Best for: Mountaineering, ice climbing, or hiking on steep ice or snow slopes

Pros: Very secure attachment to boots, tons of grip, durable

Cons: Bulky, heavy, expensive, requires training to use, may require specialized footwear, doesn’t provide flotation in snow, time-consuming to take on and off

What are crampons?

Mountaineers developed crampons to help them traverse steep and precipitous slopes on glaciers, ice, and frozen waterfalls. They consist of a two-piece metal frame that fits under the sole of your boot. The frame is linked by a center bar that is sometimes a bit flexible for easier walking. The frame usually has plastic plates under the ball and heel of the foot to prevent snow build-up

Spikes stick out of the bottom of the frame. There are usually four spikes under the heel and six or eight under the forefoot. Some crampons have two front points as well, which can be used to kick your toe into vertical slopes. One of the main differences of microspikes vs. crampons is that on crampons, the spikes are sharper and longer.

Crampons attach to your boots very securely with a system of straps and wire bails that only work with specialized mountaineering boots – these boots have special welts or grooves on the heels and toes for the crampons to attach to. These are called step-in crampons.

It is also possible to get crampons that only attach with straps and be used with any boot. These are called strap-on crampons. However, since they don’t attach as securely as step-in crampons, they are best for less technical terrain.

When to use crampons?

Crampons are the most helpful on steep slopes with firm snow or ice. They bite much deeper into the ice and provide better traction than microspikes, so they are the best choice (along with an ice axe) for any situation where falling would result in injury or death.

You should use crampons for mountaineering, ice climbing, and any time the slope is steep enough that a fall would have high consequences.

Using crampons requires mountaineering training as there are special techniques for walking and climbing in crampons.

My picks for the best crampons

I’m not a mountaineer, so I have limited experience with crampons. However, I spent seven years writing about gear for a big outdoor retailer including writing staff training materials, so I know a fair bit about crampons.

Grivel’s G12 New-Matic are a popular choice since they are quite durable and are easy to adjust. These hybrid step-in style crampons have 12 spikes but the front points aren’t designed for ice climbing, making them a good all-around crampon for pretty much everything else. The downsides are that they are on the heavier side and they only work with mountaineering boots.

If you’re looking for inexpensive, non-technical crampons, the Kahtoola K 10 Hiking Crampons or the Hillsound Trail Crampon Pro are both good choices. These are both great for hiking on steep slopes, but not enough grip or security for mountaineering.

Snowshoes

Best for: Hiking in deep snow

Pros: Can be worn with any footwear, provides flotation in deep snow

Cons: More expensive than microspikes, bulky, don’t provide enough traction for icy slopes, harder to walk in, time-consuming to take on and off

What are snowshoes?

Snowshoes increase the surface area of your foot to help you float in deep snow. There are two basic designs for snowshoes: a solid, one-piece deck or a perimeter frame with a floating deck made of fabric (or traditionally of laces).

Snowshoe bindings use straps to attach to any kind of footwear including trail running shoes, hiking boots, and sometimes bigger winter boots or snowboard boots to the snowshoes. Most snowshoes have a bit of traction underfoot, especially under the toe.

My guide to choosing snowshoes has tons more details about snowshoe construction and features.

When to use snowshoes?

Snowshoes are designed to provide flotation in deep snow. They work best when trails are snowy, especially when the snow is fresh. When the snow is shallow or when it is so hard-packed that you don’t sink in, snowshoes aren’t helpful.

Snowshoes can also be dangerous on steep slopes since they don’t provide enough traction. That, combined with the wide platform of the snowshoes, makes it easy to slip and fall while wearing snowshoes. On steep slopes with long run-outs, that can result in injury or death. I’ve got more detail on this in my guide to snowshoeing safety.

My picks for the best snowshoes

I’ve been snowshoeing for over 20 years and I think MSR makes the best snowshoes. They are durable, provide great traction, and have bindings that are easy to use and fit lots of types of footwear.

My budget pick for snowshoes is the MSR Evo Trail. My upgrade pick is the MSR Lightning Ascent because they are much lighter and more comfortable to wear. You can read more about my snowshoe recommendations in my guide to choosing snowshoes.

Other Winter Traction Devices

There are also tons of other winter traction devices on the market so it can get confusing. In general, these other traction devices provide less grip than crampons and microspikes. They are all best for use in the city.

In general, I don’t recommend any of the traction devices below. I think microspikes are the best choice, even for the city. And if Kahtoola microspikes or Hillsound Trail Crampon Ultras aren’t in the budget, get the Cimkiz microspikes on Amazon – they are a better price than all of the other winter traction devices below and provide a better grip.

Here’s a quick run-down on a few other winter traction devices you might have heard of:

Kahtoola NANOspikes: These are made by the same company that popularized microspikes. They have a similar harness, but they have rubber plates underfoot with small metal studs. Snow can build up under the rubber plates.

Kahtoola EXOspikes: The EXOspikes also have the same harness as microspikes and NANOspikes but have slightly more aggressive studs than the NANOspikes and less rubber underfoot so snow won’t build up as much.

Yaktrax ICEtrekkers Diamond Grip: These have a stretchy harness that holds beefy chains with small metal cleats under your foot. These are good for the city but could cross over into a bit of hiking use.

Yaktrax Diamond Go: Similar to the Diamond Grip but less expensive since they just have a circle of cleats under your forefoot – there’s nothing under your heel. Due to the lack of heel traction, I don’t recommend these at all.

Yaktrax Run: A rubberized plate under the forefoot has short metal studs while the back has steel coils. Designed to be lightweight for running. In my experience, snow clogs in the coil style and it doesn’t provide very good grip.

Yaktrax Walk: A set of steel coils underfoot. I don’t recommend these because I find they don’t grip well.

Hillsound FlexSteps: Similar to the Kahtoola NANOspikes but with much more burly studs set into a flexible plate. Snow can build up under the plate.

STABILicers Walk: Rubber plates under the forefoot and heel have short, blunt spikes. Ok for walking on a sidewalk but I wouldn’t recommend them for hiking. Snow can build up under the rubber plate and the spikes are not sharp enough to be helpful on most surfaces.

Final Thoughts

Now that you know the difference between microspikes vs. crampons vs. snowshoes, which ones will you be bringing on your next winter hike? I take microspikes on pretty much every winter hike – I even pack them in my backpack when I snowshoe to deal with steep terrain.

READ NEXT:

• What to Wear Winter Hiking and Snowshoeing
• How to Choose Snowshoes – Get the Right Ones for You
• Snowshoeing Safety: 14 Ways to Get into Trouble and How to Prevent Them
• How to Find Trail Conditions

The post Microspikes vs. Crampons vs. Snowshoes: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

To get started snowshoeing, you need some winter hiking clothes, some snowshoeing boots and of course, you’ll need snowshoes.

But which snowshoes should you buy? How do you know what size you’ll need? How much do they cost? I’ve put together this complete guide on how to choose snowshoes for you.

In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know to buy your first pair of snowshoes. I’ll also include my recommendations on the best snowshoes. Here’s what’s in this snowshoe buyers guide:

• Quick-picks: My top three recommendations for the best snowshoes
• How to choose snowshoes for the terrain: flat trails, steep mountains or snowshoe running
• What size snowshoes you should buy: consider your weight, the gear you are carrying, the snow conditions and your gender
• Which snowshoe materials you should choose: plastic snowshoes vs. metal-framed snowshoes
• Which type of snowshoe bindings are right for you: hinged or fixed
• What kind of snowshoe traction to look for: toe crampons, heel crampons, and side traction bars
• What about extra features and accessories: heel lift bars, extension tails, trekking poles, and micro-spikes
• How to shop for snowshoes: the best snowshoe brands, how much do snowshoes cost and what stores should you buy snowshoes from

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

Quick Picks for the Best Snowshoes

Here are my quick picks for the best snowshoes in a few categories:

• Best snowshoes for flat terrain: Atlas Access
• Best snowshoes for mountains: MSR Lightning Ascent
• Best running snowshoes: Atlas Snow Run

Why You Should Trust My Advice

I’ve been snowshoeing most of my life. My dad used to take us out on borrowed snowshoes once or twice a year. Then in my early 20s, I got my first pair of snowshoes and I’ve been going snowshoeing every winter since then.

I also worked in the outdoor industry for seven years. I wrote website descriptions and gear guides for tons of different products. I also wrote training materials for the staff. And one of my areas of expertise was snowshoes. So I know A LOT about snowshoes and which features are actually important.

How to Choose Snowshoes for the Terrain

You might think that all snowshoes are the same. Historically, indigenous people built snowshoes to help them walk across deep snow in the rolling hills of what is now Canada.

People still use snowshoes on flat terrain, but they also use them for climbing mountains and snowshoe running. So today, there are actually different kinds of snowshoes designed to suit different types of terrain.

Snowshoes for Flat Terrain

If you plan to snowshoe in an area with flat terrain or gradual hills, you should pick up some all-purpose snowshoes.  Flat terrain snowshoes are pretty no-frills, with just the basic features.

They don’t have a lot of traction underfoot so they won’t work well on steep slopes or in icy conditions. Since durability isn’t as important for casual users, they often are made of lower-quality materials.

This means they can be a bit heavy and clunky. However, that means they are usually budget-priced, which is great for beginners who aren’t sure if snowshoeing is the sport for them.

Best Snowshoes for Flat Terrain: I recommend the Atlas Access Snowshoes. They are made with quality materials and have an easy to use binding. The price is also low since they are a basic model.

Check prices:

Snowshoes for Mountainous Terrain

If you’re snowshoeing in the mountains, you will be climbing steep slopes or walking on icy terrain. And you need snowshoes that will keep you safe while you do that. Your life literally could depend on it. If you snowshoe near Vancouver, you definitely need mountain snowshoes.

Backcountry snowshoes have lots of traction to bite into ice and steep snow. They have spikes called crampons under the toes, and smaller tooth-like spikes under the heels and sometimes along the frame.

Mountain snowshoes are lighter than other snowshoes since you’ll be wearing them for a long time. You may also want to strap them to your backpack during an approach hike, and no one wants to carry extra weight.

They also have the most durable construction since a broken snowshoe deep in the backcountry may mean you have no way to get home.

These snowshoes often have fancier features than basic snowshoes such as heel lifts, extension tails, and more comfortable bindings. (I’ve got more details on these features below if you don’t know what I’m talking about.)

Best Mountain Snowshoes: When it comes to mountain snowshoes, you absolutely need to have MSR snowshoes. They are based in Seattle so their snowshoes are designed for climbing steep mountains. If you’re on a budget, the MSR Evo Ascent snowshoes are great. (I’ve had mine for almost 20 years!)

Check prices:

Upgrade Pick:

But if you’re looking for something lighter and a bit more high tech, I love my MSR Lightning Ascents. I upgraded to these a few years ago and wish I had gotten them sooner.

Check prices:

Snowshoes for Running

In the last few years, snowshoe running has grown in popularity. Most people snowshoe run on firm snow or packed trails. Since you need less flotation, they tend to be smaller than other snowshoes.

They are also lighter because it’s exhausting to run with heavy things on your feet. Running snowshoes also have minimal traction since the snowshoe trails aren’t usually icy.

To make sure you don’t whack yourself with your snowshoes with each stride, running snowshoes are generally smaller and have an asymmetric shape. Running snowshoes also have comfortable bindings that won’t pinch or chafe.

Best Running Snowshoes: The running snowshoe market is pretty niche, so there aren’t that many options to choose from. The Atlas Snow Run snowshoes get great reviews and are easily the most popular running snowshoes.

Check prices:

What Size Snowshoes to Buy

Have you ever tried to walk in deep snow without snowshoes? You sink right in, sometimes up to your crotch! But with snowshoes on, you have more surface area to spread out your weight so you “float” on top of the snow instead of sinking.

If you’ve ever wondered how snowshoes work, that’s your answer: they add surface area so you float.

Snowshoes come in different sizes to provide the right amount of flotation for each person’s weight. In general, the widths are similar, but they get longer to provide more flotation.

However, longer snowshoes are less maneuverable, so you’ll need to find the right balance between the two. You’ll also need different levels of flotation for different snow conditions. (You need more flotation in deep powder than on firmly packed trails.)

What Size Snowshoes Do You Need?

Follow the steps below to find the right size snowshoes for you.

1. Determine Your Loaded Weight

This weight isn’t just how much you weigh.

It’s the total weight of you, plus your winter clothes, plus the weight of your backpack. Add up these numbers to get your total loaded weight. Heavier people or hikers with lots of gear will need bigger snowshoes.

2. Use the Size Chart

Snowshoe brands publish recommended weights for each snowshoe size. Look at the size chart to see what size snowshoes they recommend for your loaded weight.

3. Factor in the Snow Conditions

If your region is known for fluffy powder, go up a size for more flotation. If you live in an area with heavy, wet snow or usually snowshoe on hard-packed trails, you can use smaller snowshoes.

4. Consider Women’s Snowshoes

In general women’s snowshoes are smaller than men’s snowshoes since lighter people generally need less floatation. But the biggest difference may be hard to see at first glance: subtle differences in shape.

Women’s snowshoes have a narrower profile and are more tapered. This accommodates the average woman’s stride, which isn’t as wide-set as the average man’s. Narrow snowshoes are also a bit easier to walk in.

The bindings on women’s snowshoes are also smaller. The crampons and underfoot grips are placed to sit under a woman’s smaller feet.

I used unisex snowshoes for years, but switched to these women’s snowshoes a few years ago. So! Much! More! Comfortable!

How to Choose Snowshoe Decks and Frames

There are two main types of snowshoes: molded plastic uni-body snowshoes and snowshoes with an outer frame that supports an inner textile decking.

Plastic Snowshoes

Molded plastic snowshoes are made of one piece of strong plastic with the binding attached to the top. Since you can attach metal crampons or teeth anywhere on the bottom, they also usually have great traction.

They are super durable and waaay less expensive than metal frame snowshoes. Molded plastic snowshoes are really common in rental programs since they are pretty much indestructible. I’ve had the same pair for over 15 years! I’ve replaced the bindings, but the decking is still totally fine.

However, plastic snowshoes are much noisier on icy or hard-packed snow. They also don’t flex as you walk, so your stride won’t feel as natural.

Best Plastic Snowshoes: If you’re looking for plastic snowshoes, MSR Evos are the original version and what I’ve had for nearly two decades. Every other plastic snowshoe out there is a copy.

Check prices:

Metal Frame Snowshoes

By far the most common style of snowshoe uses an outer metal frame that supports a flexible fabric deck. This style of snowshoe is lighter and quieter than plastic snowshoes. However, they are not as durable and they are more expensive.

There are a few different types of material for the decking, but in general, they are all super-durable and flexible synthetic fabrics. Some higher-end snowshoes will use lighter-weight fabrics that shed snow more and stay pliable in colder temperatures, but the average user won’t notice much of a difference.

The outer frames are typically aluminum that is lightweight and flexes slightly when you walk, for a more natural stride. The classic design uses round aluminum tubes, which you’ll find on the majority of metal frame snowshoes.

However, the round bottoms of the tubes are slippery on hard-packed or icy snow, so some snowshoe brands like MSR have started making snowshoe frames out of flat aluminum with teeth on the bottom for better grip. I really prefer this style of frame snowshoes as I think they are a LOT safer.

Best Metal Frame Snowshoes: I really believe that the flat-sided frames are a lot safer. My pick for the best metal frame snowshoes are the MSR Lighting snowshoes since they use a flat frame.

Check prices:

How to Choose Snowshoe Bindings

There are a seemingly infinite amount of snowshoe binding types out there. There are ones with buckles, ones with straps, ones with ratchets, ones with dials… the list goes on.

Most bindings are designed to fit over hiking and winter boots, but some companies make bindings large enough for snowboard boots too.

The snowshoe binding you choose will depend on your personal preference and how the binding fits you. If possible, bring your snowshoeing boots to a store and try on a few pairs of snowshoes to get a feel for each type of binding. Make sure you stand up and feel for pressure points.

It’s also a good idea to pick simple bindings that are easy to operate with gloves on. You don’t want to be messing with complicated adjustments in subzero weather!

The way the snowshoes attach to bindings is also important. There are two types of attachment: fixed and hinged.

Fixed Snowshoe Bindings

Fixed bindings attach to the deck with a flexible, elasticated strap. There’s tension on the strap so the tail of the snowshoe lifts up with each step for better striding efficiency.

However, when the elastic springs back, it can spray snow on you.

Atlas snowshoes use a fixed binding.

Hinged Snowshoe Bindings

Hinged bindings use a pivot to attach the binding to the deck near the ball of your foot. The design is better for climbing over things or kicking steps up a slope, which makes hinged bindings better for backcountry snowshoeing.

But this design does mean that the tail of the snowshoe drags, so it’s not as efficient as a fixed binding.

MSR snowshoes use a hinged binding.

Best Snowshoe Bindings

I prefer the super simple strap and hook bindings on MSR’s snowshoes. It used to be the only binding style they offered, but they have a few more choices now. Currently, you can find these bindings on the MSR Evo and Lightning snowshoes.

How to Choose Snowshoe Crampons and Traction

Traditional wooden snowshoes didn’t have any traction underfoot so they weren’t that helpful for climbing hills or icy trails. Thankfully modern snowshoes have the advantage of crampons and other traction. These are metal spikes and teeth on the bottom of the snowshoe that bite into the snow.

Toe Crampons

All snowshoes have toe crampons, attached under the toe of the binding so they can dig in as you walk. This is the main source of traction. More aggressive snowshoes for the mountains will also have other traction aids such as V-shaped crampons under the heels.

Side Traction

Plastic snowshoes and metal frame snowshoes with flat frames also have teeth along the sides. These are VERY important for off-trail and backcountry snowshoeing since they give you stability when traversing across the side of a slope.

Falls during traverses are one of the most common ways that snowshoers seriously injure themselves since most snowshoes provide NO side traction!

Best Snowshoes with Lots of Traction

MSR snowshoes have the best traction, hands down. They all have great toe crampons and side rail crampons. The lower-end models have a bit less traction than their higher-end ones. But compared to other snowshoe brands, they have waaay more traction overall.

Check prices:

Extra Features to Consider

Heel Lift Bars

If you do a lot of uphill snowshoeing, you’ll appreciate heel lift bars. Basically, they are wire bars that you can flip up to rest your heels on. It gives your calves a break and helps with traction.

But make sure you put them down when you’re on flat ground. Otherwise, it will feel like you’re wearing high heels!

You’ll find heel lift bars on mountain snowshoes, particularly on high-end ones. If you’re buying MSR snowshoes, look for ones with “Ascent” in the name to find snowshoes with heel lifts. Atlas and Tubbs also make snowshoes with heel lifts.

Snowshoe Tails

MSR designs all of their snowshoes to be modular. Basically, they sell tail extensions that let you add extra length (and therefore more flotation) to their snowshoes.

This is great for people who go out in a variety of conditions and need more support on powder days, or winter campers who sometimes need to carry very heavy packs. If you’re shopping for tails, make sure you buy the right ones for your snowshoes as they aren’t a one-size-fits-all kind of thing.

Trekking Poles

You may want to pick up a pair of trekking poles or adjustable ski poles for snowshoeing. I find I feel much more stable when I use them.

I also really appreciate them whenever the route is not totally flat: they add balance on ascents and descents and provide valuable grip on the slope during side-hill traverses.

If you use trekking poles, make sure you get some large winter baskets for them. Otherwise, they will just sink all the way in! I use my Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork trekking poles on hiking trails all summer, then switch out the baskets when winter hits.

Micro-Spikes

If you snowshoe in the backcountry you’ll likely get into some pretty steep terrain. Snowshoes are actually terrible for walking steeply downhill or on sidehills. That’s because the platform of the snowshoe gets in the way and the crampon can’t grip the snow.

On really steep slopes, I take my snowshoes off and wear micro-spikes instead. They are low-profile crampons that have stretchy straps to slip on over your boots. I love my Kahtoola Microspikes!

I also have a pair of the Hillsound Trail crampons. They are similar but have an added forefoot strap that helps them stay on better.

What’s the difference between microspikes, crampons, and snowshoes? Read my winter traction device guide to find out.

How to Shop for Snowshoes

The Best Snowshoe Brands

With the increased popularity of snowshoeing, there are TONS of different snowshoe brands on the market.

A few of them are excellent brands making quality snowshoes. A bunch of them are middle of the pack brands that have ok snowshoes, most suited for beginners and flat terrain. And then there are SO MANY terrible snowshoes made of crappy materials that won’t last.

In my opinion, the best snowshoe brands are MSR, Atlas, and Tubbs. If you’re going to buy snowshoes, I strongly advise you to buy from one of these brands.

If you buy from a cheap no-name brand, you’re likely getting snowshoes that will break. The binding straps will crack, the decks will separate from the frames or the crampons will bend.

Just take a minute to read some of the bad reviews of cheap snowshoes on Amazon to get an idea for what can go wrong when you cheap out.

It’s so much better for you and the planet to spend the extra money on a pair of quality snowshoes that you can use for decades instead of buying a new pair every year or two when your crappy ones break. Plus, if your cheap snowshoes break in the backcountry, you may not be able to hike back out!

How Much Do Snowshoes Cost?

In general, snowshoes aren’t cheap – expect to spend about $200 or more. You might be able to find snowshoes on Amazon or at big box stores for less than $100. Stay away! They are made with cheap materials that will bend and won’t hold up.

If you’re a beginner or plan to only snowshoe on flat terrain, you can definitely find snowshoes for less than $200.

But if you want high-end snowshoes that will last and let you tackle challenging terrain, you’ll need to spend more than $200.

If this all sounds too expensive, you can rent snowshoes to try them out. Ski hills and gear shops often have rentals.

You can also buy a used pair of snowshoes. You can usually find them on craigslist, facebook gear buy/sell groups, or from rental places selling off excess inventory. (Psst: Read this post about all the ways to save money on outdoor gear.)

Where to Buy Snowshoes

You can now buy snowshoes in lots of places: big box stores, Amazon, and traditional outdoor stores like REI and MEC. You can even buy snowshoes at Costco.

In general, I think it’s best to buy snowshoes from an outdoor store. They will have the best selection, have staff that can help you choose snowshoes, and usually have a very good warranty.

However, if you are buying quality snowshoes from a reputable brand, buying them elsewhere can also be ok since you know you’re getting a good product.

Final Thoughts

So that’s my HUGE guide on how to choose snowshoes. I hope it’s given you the info you need to buy the right snowshoes for you. If you’ve got more questions about what to look for in snowshoes, leave them in the comments. I’m always happy to chat about gear!

MORE SNOWSHOEING ADVICE:

• The Best Boots For Snowshoeing
• Snowshoeing Safety: 14 Ways to Get into Trouble and How to Prevent Them
• Best Gifts for Snowshoers (20+ Ideas)
• What to Wear Winter Hiking and Snowshoeing
• The Ultimate Guide to Snowshoeing in Vancouver: 10 Places to Go

MORE WINTER HIKING TIPS:

• 9 Tips for Winter Hiking (You Don’t Have to Freeze!)
• Microspikes vs. Crampons vs. Snowshoes: What’s the Difference?
• 17 Ways to Save Money on Hiking Gear
• Best Insulated Skirts to Keep Your Butt Warm on the Trails
• How to Stay Warm in a Tent: Over 40 Tips

The post How to Choose Snowshoes – Get the Right Ones for You appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.