In this post, you’ll find personal recommendations for 10 Indigenous tourism activities from tours to museums to historical sites and more. Each one is Indigenous-run and will deepen your understanding of Indigenous culture.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Quick Facts About Indigenous People in Canada

Here’s a quick run-down of the Indigenous context in Canada and North America. This is a HUGE topic that could fill many books, so it’s hard to distill it down to a few bullet points… but I tried. Like many settler Canadians, I’m working on learning more about Indigenous people to contribute to reconciliation, but I still have a long way to go.

• Indigenous people have lived in what is now Canada for 10,000 to 20,000 years. But in Indigenous oral history, that amount of time is basically forever, so it is common to say that Indigenous people have been here since time immemorial. As well, the creation stories of many Indigenous Nations place their origins in what is now Canada, so to suggest otherwise may be viewed as impolite.
• There are about 1.8 million Indigenous people in Canada. They make up about 5% of the total population. After European contact, the Indigenous population declined sharply due to disease, war, and genocidal government policies like residential schools. But today, Indigenous people are the fastest-growing population in Canada.
• “Indigenous” is a word that encompasses three main groups: First Nations, Metis, and Inuit. Previously, the word “aboriginal” was used instead of Indigenous, “Eskimo” was used instead of Inuit, and “Indian” or “Native” was used instead of First Nations. Today, all of these words are no longer commonly used and some Indigenous people may find some or all of them offensive. However, some Indigenous people may still embrace and identify with some of these words.
• There are over 600 Indigenous groups across Canada, called Nations and they speak over 50 Indigenous languages. You can find the Nation and language of a place you are visiting using the interactive Native Land Digital Map. Due to historical (and contemporary) government policies, Indigenous people may live on Reserves or outside of reserves and they may be deeply connected to their culture or disconnected from their culture. There is no single way to be Indigenous in Canada. It varies from Nation to Nation and from person to person.

Indigenous Tourism Tips

It is important to be respectful when you visit Indigenous land, especially in light of the terrible way that settlers have treated Indigenous people since our arrival. Here are a few tips to keep in mind:

• Listen carefully and listen more than you talk. It is a privilege to hear Indigenous people’s stories and they choose which parts of their culture and history to share with you.
• Stay on paths and in designated areas. Some areas are private and not open to visitors. Or they may be sacred for cultural practices. When in doubt, ask first.
• Do not take photos without permission. In some places, photos are encouraged and many Indigenous people are happy to have their photo taken. But that isn’t always the case – cultural practices differ from Nation to Nation and even from person to person. Ask first.
• Spend your money at Indigenous businesses. Stay at Indigenous-run hotels, eat at Indigenous-run restaurants, buy souvenirs from Indigenous gift shops, and book Indigenous tours.
• Do your research and avoid tourism businesses that profit off Indigenous culture or art without giving back to Indigenous people. Unfortunately, Canada has lots of museums full of stolen Indigenous cultural artifacts and lots of gift shops full of knock-off Indigenous art made overseas.
• If you can, learn a few words in the Indigenous language of the people you are visiting. If you were in France, you would say “merci” so you can learn to say “kleco kleco” in Nuu-chah-nulth territory on Vancouver Island or “hawa” in Haida Gwaii.

Wikwemikong, Manitoulin Island, Ontario

Known as the only federally recognized unceded territory in what is now Canada, Wikwemikong on Manitoulin Island is the perfect spot to learn about the true history of these lands. While they offer several experiences, I recommend beginning with the Unceded Journey guided tour. 

Local guides from Wikwemikong will take you to important destinations on the territory. As you learn about Odawa Mnis (the original name for Manitoulin Island), it will quickly become clear its importance to those of the Three Fires Confederacy (Ojibwe, Odawa and Potawatomi). Visit locations such as the Two O’Clock Lookout and the Holy Cross Church as your guide shares key historical events and impactful treaties that have shaped Wikwemikong and the surrounding area.

I had the pleasure of being guided by Jack who was a fountain of information and constantly willing to answer any questions my group had. He shared about his personal experiences with the Residential School System and its aftermath. This tour is incredibly impactful and I couldn’t believe how much I learned!

Wikwemikong offers a variety of tours including guided hikes, paddles and culinary experiences. Learn more about these tours in my guide to Wikwemikong. If you’re planning to stay for a few days on Manitoulin Island, I highly recommend booking a room at the Indigenous-owned and operated Manitoulin Hotel and Conference Centre in Little Current.

Recommended by Lindz of I’ve Been Bit! Travel Blog

Wanuskewin Heritage Park, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan

Currently on its way to becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site, Wanuskewin Heritage Park is one of the coolest indigenous sites I’ve ever experienced. Located on the outskirts of Saskatoon, Wanuskewin Heritage Park provides an incredible museum and cultural centre and acts as Canada’s longest-running archaeological dig site. The site dates back more than 6,000 years and is constantly churning up more and more artifacts.

During our visit, we watched some traditional hoop dancing, learned how to build a teepee and what each pole represents, learned all about the culture of the Northern Plains Indigenous peoples, and got to take a peek at their bison herd, which was introduced back to the site in 2019.

Whether you want to stop by to visit the museum, take a walk on one of their trails, enjoy a meal at their on-site restaurant, or enjoy one of their teepee sleepovers, this is easily one of the top things to do in Saskatoon.

Recommended by Matthew Bailey from Must Do Canada

Sundre Medicine Walk, Sundre, Alberta

Mahikan Trails Indigenous Experiences offers a medicine walk through the woods of Sundre. Sundre is a small town in the Canadian Rockies‘ foothills along the Cowboy Trail (or AB-22). It’s only a 1.5-hour drive from Calgary. This easy 1.5 km walk departs from the Sundre Visitor Information Centre.

I participated in this guided medicine walk in the fall; it was a fun experience and I learned a lot. Jordan was our guide for this Sundre medicine walk. He shared all of his family’s knowledge of medicinal plants. During this 1.5- to 2-hour walking tour, he showed us plants and trees that have medicinal properties.

With his Cree heritage, he has much to share about the different plants and trees and how they can be used for medicinal purposes. Halfway through the walk, we enjoyed mint tea and heard wonderful Cree stories.

The walk is suitable for all ages. We did it with our 3.5 and 5.5-year-old boys, and they were able to follow along. Mahikan Trails Indigenous Experiences also offers medicine walks in Banff at Cascade Pounds and canyon walks in Canmore. While in Sundre, you can also experience a unique glamping stay at Painted Warriors.

Recommended by Emilie from Love Life Abroad

Gwaii Haanas National Park, Haida Gwaii, BC

Located in the southern half of the Haida Gwaii archipelago, Gwaii Haanas National Park is jointly managed by the Haida Nation and Parks Canada. In fact, Indigenous people were instrumental in the creation of the park through a decades-long protest movement to take control of their traditional territory and halt unsustainable logging in the area.

While the huge park protects lots of forests, beaches, and underwater habitats, the most popular sites are the five Haida Watchmen sites. These are important cultural sites staffed by two watchmen (who can be of any gender) from the Haida Nation.

Each of the Haida Watchmen sites is different, but they are all important cultural sites. The highlight is SGang Gwaay, a former village site on Anthony Island in the southern part of the park. It is both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site of Canada.

When disease decimated the Haida population, they abandoned many of their traditional village sites. Later, settlers came and removed their carvings and other cultural items to display them in museums without Haida consent. Today, SGang Gwaay is the only village that still has most of its carved poles and house ruins.

When you arrive, a Haida Watchman will guide you around the island, explaining the carvings on the poles and the layout of the former village. I found it very moving to learn about a culture that was nearly wiped out and the Haida people who are now working to ensure it continues. Of all the places I’ve experienced Indigenous tourism in Canada, this is my favourite.

Like the rest of Gwaii Hanaas National Park, SGang Gwaay is only accessible by boat or kayak. You can travel independently, but since the area is remote and the weather is unpredictable, it’s best to take a tour from the town of Sandspit.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Nass Valley (Nisga’a Territory), BC

The Nass Valley in Northern BC is unique because in 2000 the Nisga’a Nation signed the first modern treaty in Canada. Under the terms of the agreement, the Nisga’a govern their own territory. But while the political history is fascinating, most people visit the Nass Valley for its gorgeous volcanic scenery.

Located north of Terrace, the valley includes four villages and Anhluut’ukwsim Lax̱mihl Angwinga’asanakwhl Nisga’a (Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park). This huge area is the site of one of Canada’s most recent and deadliest volcanic eruptions, dating back to the late 1600s or early 1700s.

Today you can take a hike to Tseax Cone Volcano to see the source of all the lava with Steve Johnson, a local Nisga’a guide. His tour includes lots of info about geology and plants as well as Nisga’a oral history. I really enjoyed listening to Steve tell us the Nisga’a legend that explains the eruption.

All the geothermal in the area created the Higu Isgwit Hot Springs, which are great for a soak and are one of the best hot springs in Canada. The Nisga’a believe they are the dwelling place of a spirit, so you must book ahead and be respectful when you visit.

To really understand Nisga’a culture, you must visit the Nisga’a Museum in Laxgatls’ap. It has a huge collection of carvings, canoes, and regalia. Be sure to take the free guided tour. Two young Nisga’a women gave us a tour and explained the significance of everything we were seeing. Since my visit, Scotland’s National Museum returned a pole they stole nearly 100 years ago. When I visited, our guides explained that the museum was built with an empty space to accommodate the pole, so it was very exciting that it was finally returning home.

The Nass Valley is a one-hour drive from Terrace so you can visit it as a day trip. But I recommend spending at least one night in the valley, either at the Vetter Creek campground or at one of the Nisga’a-owned lodges and B&Bs.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Kitselas Canyon, Terrace, BC

Kitselas Canyon, a National Historic Site of Canada managed by the Gitselasu People, was a pleasant, spontaneous stop during my BC road trip. Tucked away along the Skeena River near the community of Gitaus, the canyon was once home to six ancestral villages and a fortified site. Today, it’s the perfect blend of history, culture, and nature.

Drive to the visitor center, just 15 minutes from Terrace. Since I visited during the shoulder season, I did a self-guided tour. The guided tours depart at 10 am and 1 pm, May-August. The admission fee of $10 helps support the maintenance and economic development of the community.

I first stopped at the four interpretive buildings representing the wolf, eagle, raven, and orca clans. Each longhouse hosts a unique collection of artifacts, historical information, and ecological displays. A highlight was a replica of the cave petroglyphs found in the region, likely created by shamans.

After a stroll through the forested trail, I came across an ancient dugout canoe, four stunning clan poles, and a trail fork. The right led me on a more strenuous adventure to the banks of the Skeena River; the left took me to an easy-to-access viewing platform. The information was limited for the self-guided experience. However, the highlight for me was the beautiful natural landscape and the feeling of connectedness to a place inhabited for over 6,000 years.

Recommended by Susanna Kelly-Shankar from Curiosity Saves Travel

U’mista Cultural Centre, Alert Bay, BC

Alert Bay, BC is a small community on an island just off the coast of northern Vancouver Island. You can get there on a short ferry ride from the town of Port McNeill. About half of the island is a ‘Namgis First Nation reserve (the ‘Namgis are part of the larger Kwakwaka’wakw Nation).

Alert Bay is a great place to learn about Potlatch culture, a practice that is common to Indigenous people up and down the Pacific Northwest Coast. A Potlatches is a huge gift-giving feast where the hosts share food and gifts with attendees, who may travel great distances to be there.

Potlatches were illegal in Canada between 1884 and 1951. The Canadian government stole ceremonial masks and dance regalia used in potlatches and gave them to museums around the world. Since then, the Kwakwaka’wakw have worked hard to bring these ceremonial items home. Today some of them are on display at the U’mista Cultural Centre.

This excellent museum has great displays that explain potlatching as well as Kwakwaka’wakw history and culture. But the real highlight is the temperature-controlled cedar room with the dance masks and regalia on display.

After visiting the museum, you should also take a walk around the town to see the totem poles – there are dozens. Alert Bay is also the home of the world’s largest totem pole. It is 173 ft (53 m) tall. If you are hungry, be sure to stop at Duchess’ Bannock for some delicious bannock (fry bread) with berries and whipped cream.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Wild Side Trail, Tofino, BC

If you want to combine backcountry hiking and Indigenous culture, visit the Wild Side Trail. The hike is in Ahousaht territory on Flores Island, which is a short water taxi ride from Tofino.

The trail starts in the village of Maaqtusiis and heads along the coast for 11 km before finishing at Cow Bay. From there you can hike back to the start or arrange to have a water taxi pick you up. You can hike the trail in one day, or split up your journey with a stay at one of three backcountry campgrounds along the way.

While the rainforest and coast scenery are reason enough to go, the hike is also an important historical route for the Ahousaht Nation. The trail passes many important locations in the Ahousaht-Otosaht war in the early 19th century. You can find more info on the significance of each place on beautifully painted interpretive signs.

You can also find culturally modified trees along the route. The best example is a huge old-growth cedar near the Kutcous River. It has a large square box cut out of it part way up. This was a way to test the inner wood of the tree to see if would make a good canoe. Further down the tree, the Ahousaht removed two long planks from the tree. This was done in such a way that the tree remains alive and healthy today.

You must obtain a permit from the Ahousaht Nation to hike the trail. You can do this on their website or at the Ahous Fuel Stop which is at the dock where the water taxi drops you off in Maaqtusiis. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in Tofino, the Indigenous-owned Himwitsa Lodge is near the water taxi dock.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, Whistler, BC

The Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre is one of my top picks for the best things to do in Whistler. Each year millions of people visit Whistler to ski and hike without learning anything about the traditional Indigenous land they are visiting. The SLCC is an Indigenous-run museum. It explains the history and culture of the Squamish and Lil’wat Nations, the two Indigenous groups that have called the Whistler area home since time immemorial.

The museum has lots of excellent exhibits of Indigenous carving, clothing, and art, which are interesting on their own. But for me, the best part of the SLCC is the free guided tour. It begins with a welcome song and drumming. Then, a local guide from the Squamish or Lil’wat Nations walks you through the museum.

Your guide will explain the exhibits and also tell their own stories about their personal connections to the art and artifacts on display. On my most recent visit, our young Lil’wat guide showed us a cedar box used as a baby cradle and backpack. He explained that he had a similar box passed down from his grandparents and planned to use it for his baby. He also helped us understand the way the geography and drier climate north of Whistler influenced Lil’wat culture in ways that are different than Squamish culture to the south.

Don’t miss a visit to the gift shop. They have lots of great art, jewelry, clothing, and books. You can also try Indigenous-inspired food like Bannock tacos at the Thunderbird Cafe on the lower level. This gorgeous museum is located in the heart of Whistler in the Upper Village area.

Recommended by Taryn Eyton of Dawn Outdoors

Talaysay Tours, Vancouver, BC

Stanley Park is often described as Vancouver’s “Crown jewel,” but even that metaphor hints at its colonization. Taking a walking tour through the 1000-acre park with Talaysay Tours, an Indigenous-owned company, is one powerful way to take steps towards reconciliation.

I loved their Talking Trees tour, during which my Coast Salish guide told me about how the forest’s diverse trees and plants have been used by Indigenous peoples since time immemorial. He spoke about which trees are used to build longhouses (cedars) and which are good for fire-starting (Douglas firs). He described the processes of creating a dug-out canoe, carefully stripping cedar bark, and building temporary shelters.

My favourite parts were his personal stories, especially the one about his grandmother’s healing experience at a winter longhouse ceremony.

Stanley Park is located in downtown Vancouver, on a peninsula between Burrard Inlet and the harbour. The Talking Trees tour meets at the park’s bus loop (accessible by bus 19) and continues on local trails near Stanley Park Pavilion. We walked to landmark trees, like a tall Douglas fir, and stopped at Beaver Lake.

Talaysay offers different tours. Talking Totems, for example, focuses on the Stanley Park totem poles and explains the values of this Indigenous art form. Their Forest Bathing tour is a meditative outing during which the guide shares cultural teachings about the forest. If you want to stay nearby, try the Skwachays Lodge in downtown Vancouver. It is an Indigenous-owned boutique hotel with an art gallery and artist-in-residence program.

Recommended by Melanie Ferguson from Postcards & Places

I hope you take the time to experience Indigenous tourism in Canada. The experiences in this post are just a starting point: there are lots of other great Indigenous tours, hotels, and experiences across our nation. Do you have another Indigenous tourism experience to recommend? Tell me in the comments.

READ NEXT:

• Best Small Towns in Canada for Outdoor Adventures
• Your Guide to the Best Hot Springs in Canada
• How to Take an Epic Canadian National Parks Road Trip
• Things to Do in Haida Gwaii
• The Ultimate Guide to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve
• Things to do in the Nass Valley (Nisga’a Territory) in Northern BC

The post Where to Experience Indigenous Tourism in Canada appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I’ve wanted to visit Nisga’a territory for years after I heard about their incredible volcanos, picturesque hot springs, and beautiful museum. I spent two days in the Nass Valley (which is sometimes also called the Nisga’a Valley) camping, hiking, visiting cultural sites, and soaking up the beauty.

If you’re in Northern BC visiting Haida Gwaii, Prince Rupert, or Terrace, I definitely recommend adding extra time for the Nass Valley. I think it combines the richness of Indigenous culture you can find in Haida Gwaii with the volcanic scenery of Iceland or Wells Gray Provincial Park. And it’s never crowded! I wasn’t sure what to expect before my trip, but now I can say that the Nass Valley is one of my favourite places in BC.

In case you want to visit, I put together a bit guide to the best things to do in the Nass Valley for you. It includes:

• Nass Valley Basics: Where is it? How long to spend? Best time to go? What is the Indigenous and geological context? And lots more.
• Map of the Nass Valley: It includes all the places I mention in this post.
• Best things to do in the Nass Valley: 20 places to stop including museums, waterfalls, hot springs, hikes, villages, viewpoints, and more.
• Where to stay in the Nass Valley including hotels, B&Bs and campgrounds.
• Tips for visiting the Nass Valley: What I wish I had known before my trip.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Nass Valley Basics

Where is the Nass Valley?

The Nass Valley is located in Northwestern British Columbia about 1.5 hour’s drive north of the city of Terrace on the paved Highway 113. The valley includes four Nisga’a villages and Anhluut’ukwsim Lax̱mihl Angwinga’asanakwhl Nisga’a (Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park).

It takes about 1.5 hours to drive from one end of the valley to the other because it is 70 km long.

Indigenous Context of the Nass Valley

The Nass Valley is the traditional territory of the Nisga’a Nation who have lived there since time immemorial. Nisga’a society has four tribes: raven, orca, wolf, and eagle. Traditionally, they lived in rectangular cedar long houses.

Like many First Nations in British Columbia, the Canadian government never signed a treaty with the Nisga’a. I used to work as a lawyer and in law school, I studied Indigenous law. (You can read more about my background on my About page.) The Nisga’a have a very important place in Canadian legal history, which was a big reason why I wanted to visit the Nass Valley.

Starting in 1887 with a 1000-kilometre trip to Victoria to meet with the then-Premier, the Nisga’a campaigned for control over their traditional territories. The Nisga’a worked tirelessly to assert their rights and title to their land for decades, despite it being illegal for Indigenous people to raise money for land claims lawsuits between 1927 and 1951. In 1973 the Nisga’a won the Calder case, a landmark Supreme Court of Canada decision that ruled that aboriginal title to land existed before colonization.

Building off of this case, the Nisga’a negotiated with the governments of British Columbia and Canada to sign the Nisga’a Final Agreement that came into effect in 2000 as the first modern treaty between Indigenous people and the governments. Under the agreement, the Nisga’a govern their own territory including education, health care, social services, forestry, fishing, and other aspects of their economy using a model based on traditional Nisga’a governments. Unlike other Indigenous Nations in Canada, they are no longer governed by the Indian Act.

Today the Nisga’a Nation includes about 2,000 people who still live in the Nass Valley as well as about 5,000 others who live in Terrace, Prince Rupert, and Vancouver. They continue their cultural practices and traditions. Nisga’a territory is one of the best places to experience Indigenous tourism in Canada.

Geological Context of the Nass Valley

The other big reason I wanted to visit the Nass Valley was because of the geology. Did you know that one of the most recent (and deadliest) volcanic eruptions in Canada happened in Nisga’a Territory? Tseax Cone erupted in the late 1600s or early 1700s. Lava from the cone flowed down the slope and along the valley of the Tseax River to the Nass River where it spilled out in a wide plain across the valley floor.

Two Nisga’a Villages were destroyed in the eruption as poisonous gases and smoke killed about 2,000 people. Later, lava up to 12 meters deep (39 feet) covered the villages, burying the dead. The name of the present-day provincial park in the area, Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park, reflects the status of the area sas a memorial and burial ground for those who perished.

There are lots of lava formations to explore in the valley – it reminded me of similar volcanic landscapes I’ve visited in Iceland and Hawaii. You can wander across the fractured lava plain, see the Nass River churn through a lava rock canyon or take a guided hike to the top of Tseax Cone, the source of the eruption. And of course all that geologic activity means hot springs!

How Long to Spend in the Nass Valley

It’s possible to see the entire Nass Valley in one long day as a day trip from Terrace. However, if you want to see the key sites including the hot springs, museum, and guided volcano hike, I recommend spending two days in the valley.

Best Time to Go

The best time to go to the Nass Valley is between late May and early September. The weather is best at that time of year. As well, that is when the Nisga’a Museum is open every day and the Tseax Cone guided volcano cone hiking tours run.

Weather in the Nass Valley

The Nass Valley is in northwestern BC close to the coast so it has a cool and wet climate. The warmest months are July and August with lows of 10°C (50°F) and highs of 22°C (72°F). May, June and September are a little cooler with temperatures of 5-17°C (41-63°F).

It rains a little bit more at the coastal end of the valley in Gingolx compared to further inland at Gitlax’taamiks (New Aiyansh). The driest months are May, June, July, and August.

Cell Phone Coverage

Cell phone service spotty or non-existent in the Nass Valley. Depending on your carrier, you may get coverage in and around the four Nisga’a villages of Gitlax’taamiks (New Aiyansh), Gitwinksilhkw, Laxgalts’ap, and Gingolx. You will not have service anywhere else.

Gas, Food, Supplies, and Public Washrooms

The villages in the Nass Valley are fairly small and quite remote. The Nisga’a Nation is working on developing tourism infrastructure, but right now, it is fairly limited.

There are gas stations in Gitlax’taamiks (New Aiyansh) and Laxgalts’ap, but it’s a good idea to fill up in Terrace before you drive to Nisga’a Territory.

Gitlax’taamiks has a convenience store at the gas bar with regular hours and there are a few small stores run out of people’s homes in each of the four communities. However, supplies are limited so I recommend bringing everything you will need. You can also eat at the restaurant in Gingolx, but they aren’t always open. As well, if you are staying at a B&B, they can often prepare meals and snacks with advance notice.

There are not very many public washrooms in the valley. You can find pit toilets at Lava Lake, Vetter Falls, the Vetter Creek campground and the Tseax River pull-out. There are flush toilets at the gas bar in Gitlaxt’aamiks, the Nisga’a Museum, and the recreation centres in each village.

Nass Valley Map

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Nass Valley Google Map for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post.

Best Things to Do in the Nass Valley

Since most people will drive through the Nass Valley and Nisga’a Territory from south to northwest along Highway 113, I’ve listed each of the things to do below starting in the south and finishing in the northwest at the end of the highway.

If you are just looking to hit the highlights, here are my quick top five things to do in the Nass Valley:

1. Take a guided hike to the Tseax Cone Volcano
2. Walk over the Ukws-Ts’agat Suspension Bridge in Gitwinksihlkw
3. Hike to the Saasak’ Viewpoint in Gitwinksihlkw
4. Soak in Higu Isgwit Hot Springs
5. Visit the Nisga’a Museum in Laxgalts’ap

Nisga’a Auto Tour

The easiest way to see the entire area is to follow the Nisga’a Auto Tour. The 90-kilometre-long route follows Highway 113 from the start of Nisga’a Territory at Lava Lake to the Nass River, and then to the coast at Gingolx.

There are 18 designated stops along the Nisga’a Auto Tour, most of which have interpretive signs. The Nisga’a Lisims Government developed the tour as a way to highlight the natural and cultural features of their territory.

Many of the stops are within Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park, also called Anhluut’ukwsim Lax̱mihl Angwinga’asanakwhl Nisga’a.

You can follow the tour by pulling over whenever you see a sign, or by picking up a copy of the official auto tour brochure. I used a pdf copy of the brochure on my phone on my trip.

Most of the attractions I list below are on the auto tour route, so keep an eye out as you drive. But you will also want to enjoy the spectacular scenery.

The first part of the tour is through the forest, but after you pass Vetter Falls, you emerge onto an other-worldly lava plain. A few minutes past the turn-off for Gitwinksihlkw, the road goes back into the forest and parallels the meandering Nass River, which is out of sight to your right. Watch for wildlife through here – we spotted several black bears!

The road curves and crosses the Nass River on a huge bridge then continues through the forest past Laxgalts’ap and the Nisga’a Museum. From here, the highway heads towards the mouth of the Nass River as it empties into the ocean.

The final 28 km of road was built in 2002. Before that, the only way to get to Gingolx was by boat. This section of the highway has several steep hills and lots of great views of the Nass Rive, Nass Bay, and Portland Inlet.

Lava Lake

As you approach from Terrace, the road follows the shore of Lava Lake, known as Sii T’ax in Nisga’a. There are great views from the road and a few small pull-outs to get a better look.

You can also stop at the far end of the lake at the Lava Lake picnic area in Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park. This is the first stop on the Nisga’a auto tour and there are signs in English and Nisga’a explaining the cultural and geologic significance of the Nass Valley.

During the volcanic eruption in the 1700s, lava flowing down from Tseax Cone dammed the Tseax River, causing water to build up behind it, which formed Lava Lake. From the picnic area, walk down to the shoreline to marvel at the jagged volcanic rocks at the end of the lake.

Crater Creek Trail

Find the trailhead for this hike on the right side of the road. A rough path leads through the jumbled lava to a viewpoint. The trail is only 600 m long and takes 15-20 minutes to walk.

Crater Creek (called Ksi Wil Ksi-Baxhl Mihl in Nisga’a) is the start of the lava flow that cascaded down from Tseax Cone before running down the Tseax River valley and burying two Nisga’a villages. As you walk, be careful not to step on the fragile lichens. These tenacious moss-like organisms are the first plants to grow in the lava fields.

Tseax Cone Volcano Tour

One of the highlights of my visit to the Nisga’a Valley was the Tseax Cone Volcano Tour. Tseax Cone (also called Lava Cone) is the origin point of the lava flows from the eruptions in the 1700s. The area is closed to the public, so the only way to visit is on a guided tour.

Steve Johnson, a local Nisga’a man, owns and operates Nass Valley Tours and is the only licenced tour operator for Tseax Cone. He offers tours a few days a week between late June and early September. You can find tour dates and times on his website. Or ask about tour times at the Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Visitor Centre at the Vetter Creek Campground.

You don’t need to pre-register for tours – instead just show up at the meeting point, which is a gated road on the right side of Highway 113 about 1.4 km north of Lava Lake. Bring cash to pay your guide. In 2023, the rate was $40/adult or $30/senior or student.

The hike is about 6 km long and takes 3.5 to 4.5 hours. The first part of the hike is downhill, then you climb uphill to the top of the cone. I would rate the difficulty of the hike as moderate.

The hike starts in the forest, passes a unique lake dammed by lava, and then emerges from the trees onto the rocky cone. Steve makes several stops along the way to explain Nisga’a cultural practices and oral history as well as give info about the plants and geology. At the peak of the cone he also shared the Nisga’a legend that explains the eruption.

Be sure to look up the tour schedule in advance and plan your visit to the Nass Valley so that you can take the Tseax Cone guided hike. I am so glad we did as the volcanic history was amazing and Steve was a great guide. I loved how he helped us connect what we were seeing on the land to the Nisga’a culture.

Drowned Forest

The next stop after Tseax Cone is the Drowned Forest (called Dihlaa Nii-Baxhl Aks Sbayt-Gan in Nisga’a). I visited in late June when water levels were high and we could see the Tseax River flowing right through the forest here. The lava rocks are full of holes so the river can easily go underground. There is a short walking path that leads to a viewpoint next to the river. You can also see more of the drowned forest from the highway as you drive past.

Beaupre Falls

The walk to Beaupre Falls is fairly short and so is the waterfall, but it is still really pretty. It takes about 5 minutes to walk to the falls and back. There is a small viewing area that makes for a great photo op.

Vetter Falls

While Beaupre Falls is a class cascading waterfall in a forested canyon, Vetter Falls is a bit more unusual. Called Ts’itksim Aks in Nisga’a, the falls flow across the lava, forming a wide waterfall that is separated into three or four sections (depending on flow levels). The best view is from the main viewing platform. Allow 15 minutes for the walk.

Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Visitor Centre

Known as Wilp T’aam Lax Sankw’ax in Nisga’a, this visitor centre is located at the entrance to Vetter Creek Campground in Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park. (The park is also called Anhluut’ukwsim Lax̱mihl Angwinga’asanakwhl Nisga’a in the Nisga’a language.)

The visitor centre is open daily in the summer and staff can help answer questions about the Nass Valley. But it’s worth visiting just to see the beautiful building. The building is designed to look like a traditional cedar Nisga’a longhouse.

Inside, displays explain Nisga’a culture and history, including the important 2000 Nisga’a Final Agreement, which gave the Nisga’a powers of self-governance.

Gitlax’taamiks (New Aiyansh)

The village of Gitlax’taamiks, formerly known as New Aiyansh, is the first of four Nisga’a villages in the Nass Valley. It is located a few minutes east (right) of the major T-junction on Highway 113. It is pronounced “git-lax-taa-meeks”.

Gitlax’taamiks is the capital of the Nisga’a Nation so you will find the impressive Nisga’a Lisims government building here. The village has a population of about 1000.

In Nisga’a, Gitlax’taamiks means “people of the ponds”. The old name of the town, New Aiyansh meant “fertile valley” and was a reference to the original riverside location of the town of Aiyansh, which was destroyed by flooding in 1917 and 1961.

Gitlax’taamiks is worth a visit to see the totem poles (called pts’aan in Nisga’a). You can also request a tour of the Nisga’a Lisims government building, but they were closed on the day I visited.

If you need gas or supplies, stop at the New Aiyansh Gas Bar near the entrance to town.

Nass Forest Service Road to Cranberry Junction

If you continue east past Gitlax’taamiks, Highway 113 becomes the gravel Nass Forest Service Road. This road is muddy and bumpy, but fine for 2WD vehicles. It is 51 km from the end of the pavement to Cranberry Junction on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway (Highway 37). That makes it an alternate exit from the Nass Valley if you don’t want to return to Terrace the way you came.

Along the way, you will pass Dragon Lake. It has a free campground and locals told us it has good fishing for rainbow trout. The rest of the road has a few views of the Nass River.

But the real reason we chose to drive the Nass Forest Service Road is because we heard it was a good place to spot wildlife. I am happy to report we saw a cow moose! Sadly, I didn’t get any photos as she moved too fast and it was pouring rain.

Tree Cast

This roadside pull-out is the start of a 5-minute walk. When the lava solidified around trees, the wet wood burned slower, creating hollows in the rock in the shape of the old tree trunks. In Nisga’a, this area is called Wil Luu-galksi-mihl Gan.

The path starts out wide and straightforward, but within a few minutes, it gets much less distinct. It’s easy to lose the route in the lava, which in some places is so smooth it looks like a sidewalk. In general, follow cleared areas in the lava straight and slightly to the left until you see the tree cast in a depression on your left.

Gitwinksihlkw

Formerly known as Canyon City, Gitwinkshilkw is one of the four Nisga’a villages in the Nass Valley. The name of the town is pronounced GIT-wink-silk and means place of the lizards because, before the eruption, there were lots of salamanders (ksilkw) here.

Gitwinksihlkw has a unique location on the banks of a lava rock canyon with the Nass River running past it. Today a spur road and modern bridge connect the town to Highway 113. But until the 1990s, the only way to get to Gitwinksihlkw was to walk over a suspension bridge (more on that below).

Like the other towns in the Nass Valley, Gitwinksihlkw is small. Be sure to stop to admire the totem poles at the road bridge as well as the ones in front of Ts’oohl Ts’ap Recreation Centre at the back of the village. If it’s open, you can also stop at the Welcome House Cafe and Gift Shop, next to the suspension bridge. I visited in the late afternoon after it had closed for the day 🙁

Ukws-Ts’agat Suspension Bridge

Walking across the Ukws-Ts’agat Suspension Bridge in Gitwinksihlkw was one of my favourite things to do in the Nass Valley. The old bridge was built in 1969, but there have been bridges across the Nass River in this area for hundreds of years. Until the road bridge was built in the 1990s, everything arrived in Gitwinksihlkw via this bridge – people, groceries, building materials, everything!

The swinging suspension bridge also provides a great view of the lava canyon. Lava from the eruption in the 1700s changed the course of the Nass River by pushing it north. Today the waters cut a canyon through the lava rock, which is fascinating to see from the bridge.

You can also see giant fish wheels in the water below the bridge. The Nisga’a manage their own fisheries in partnership with the Canadian and British Columbia governments. These fish wheels collect salmon and steelhead for monitoring, tagging, and data collection.

Once you cross the bridge, you arrive at an open area at the end of a dirt road. This used to the be main road entrance to Gitwinksihlkw. From here you can also follow trails along the edge of the canyon to several viewpoints.

Saasak’ Trails

One of the best places to get a good perspective on the size of the lava flows in the Nass Valley is from the Saasak’ Trails. This trail network opened next to the Ts’oohl Ts’ap Recreation Centre in Gitwinksihlkw in 2021. While the trails were built for mountain biking, they are multi-use and open to hikers too.

There are three trails in the lower part of the network (Saasak’ Hill Climb, a green downhill trail and a blue downhill trail) and four more upper trails accessed via a gravel road (two climb trails as well as a blue trail and a black trail). Use the maps on the Trailforks mountain biking app to find your way.

Both hikers and mountain bikers shouldn’t miss a trip to Saasak’ Viewpoint, accessed via the Saasak’ Hill Climb Trail. The wooden viewing platform has the best view of the Nass Valley.

You can see Gitwinksihlkw below you along with the Nass Valley canyon. You can also see how the lava flowed down the Tseax River into the Nass Valley and spread out to create kilometres of flat, unforested lava plain. I didn’t appreciate how vast the lava plain was until I saw it from above!

Anhluut’ukwsim Lax-mihl / Dedication Site

This roadside pullout is a good place to stop and explore the lava. The smooth and sometimes ropey rock formations here are called pahoehoe. They form when lava cools slowly as it continues to flow. This spot is also the place where the Nisga’a Lava Bed Memorial Provincial Park (Anhluut’ukwsim Lax-mihl Angwinga’asa’anskwhl Nisga’a) was formally dedicated in 1992.

Higu Isgwit Nass Valley Hot Springs

I love hot springs, so visiting the Higu Isgwit Nass Valley Hot Springs was one of the main reasons I wanted to the Nisga’a Valley. (See my guide to hot springs in Canada for lots more great hot springs!)

The springs are often referred to as Aiyansh Hot Springs or Nass Valley Hot Springs. But in Nisga’a they are called Higu Isgwit, which means “little stinker”, a reference to the sulphur smell. The springs are the dwelling place of a spirit (sbi naxnok) and have been culturally significant to the Nisga’a since time immemorial, so be respectful when you visit. Drugs, alcohol, and pets are prohibited. Pack out all garbage and keep noise to a minimum.

You must book in advance by calling (250) 633-3038. They are open for 1-hour sessions between 9:30 am and 4 pm Monday to Friday only. When you call, have your name, email address, phone number, and number of people ready. It costs $8 per adult and $5 per child. You can pay via credit or debit card at the springs – they do not accept cash.

To reach the springs, you will walk along a boardwalk for about five minutes through a marsh. The springs are located in a boggy area near a creek. There is a change room at the springs but no bathrooms – use the pit toilet in the parking lot before you go. The area around the springs can be buggy in June and July.

There are two wooden tubs along with a gravel-bottomed pool. The water in all three is quite hot, but you can adjust the temperature with cold water hoses.

Laxgalts’ap

Laxgalts’ap is the third Nisga’a Village you can visit in the Nass Valley. In Nisga’a, its name means “village on village” since it is built on top of the site of a much older village. It has a small population of about 250 people. For a few decades, Laxgalts’ap was known as Greenville, after a Methodist missionary who worked in the Nass Valley.

Today, the main attraction in Laxgalts’ap is the Nisga’a Museum located just west of town. The town is located at the start of the Nass River estuary, a prime spawning area for salmon and oolichan. You can drive through the village to the banks of the Nass River to watch people fishing.

Nisga’a Museum

The Nisga’a Museum is also known as Hli Goothl Wilp-Adokshl Nisga’a which means “The Heart of Nisga’a House Crests”. The museum has a huge collection of totem poles, carvings, canoes, regalia and other cultural objects. I’ve visited Indigenous museums in Whistler, Haida Gwaii, and Alert Bay, and I thought the Nisga’a Museum had one of the best collections.

A free guided tour is included with museum entry. I took a tour with two young Nisga’a women. They did a great job of answering my questions and explaining the exhibits.

The first thing you notice when you walk into the museum is the soaring totem poles and the carved house front. They actually designed the museum with enough room to add another pole. After a decades-long campaign, the stolen Ni’isjoohl memorial pole was finally returned from a museum in Scotland and installed in the museum a few months after I visited.

Many of the other exhibits in the museum are also rematriated items, returned to the Nisga’a from museums around the world. (The Nisga’a use the word “rematriation” rather than “repatriation” since they are a matrilineal culture.) These returned ceremonial objects are now on display in the Ancestors Collection gallery.

The museum is open seven days a week in July, August, and early September and from Wednesday to Sunday in late May, June, most of September and early October. Make sure to plan your visit for a time when the museum is open. They also have a great gift shop.

Gingolx

The village of Gingolx is located at the end of the Nisaga’a Highway. It used to be called Kincolith, an anglicized version of the Nisga’a name.

The village sits at the mouth of the Nass River on Portland Inlet. Gingolx is also known as the seafood capital of the Nass, thanks to its great fishing. But the Nisga’a call it place of skulls or place of scalps since the Nisga’a warned invaders by displaying the skulls of their enemies on trees and cliffs nearby. Locals told us that these invaders were often Haida people from Haida Gwaii on the other side of the Hecate Strait.

There was no road to Gingolx until 2002 – the only access was by boat. It is less isolated today, but it remains a sleepy place. Walk along the waterfront seawall to enjoy the incredible ocean and mountain views. And keep an eye out for eagles – there are dozens of them here! If you are into fishing, this is THE spot.

“U” Seefood “U” Eat It!

There is only one real restaurant in the Nass Valley: “U” Seefood “U” Eat It! in Gingolx. This small family-run restaurant cooks up fish and chips fresh to order. They also have lots of other seafood dishes including crab poutine and seafood chowder. We enjoyed eating on their sunny patio.

Where to Stay in the Nass Valley

Many people make a day trip to the Nass Valley from Terrace, since it has more hotel choices. If you are looking to stay overnight in Terrace, The Lodge at Skeena Landing has a gorgeous forest setting, big rooms, and an on-site cafe. Check prices.

However, I recommend staying at least one night in the Nass Valley. That way you can spend more time exploring and less time driving. There are only a few places to stay in Nisga’a Territory. Be sure to book in advance.

Hotels and B&Bs in the Nass Valley

Vetter Falls Lodge: Located just outside of Gitlax’taamiks (New Aiyansh), the Vetter Falls Lodge has a beautiful setting near the banks of the Tseax River. The rustic log lodge includes breakfast and you can also use their kitchen to prepare your own lunch and dinner. Check prices.

Nass Valley Bed and Breakfast: Nestled into the forest near Gitlax’taamiks (New Aiyansh), the cedar post and beam Nass Valley B&B has rooms with vaulted ceilings and includes breakfast. Guests rave about how friendly the host is. Check prices.

Lavinia’s Bed and Breakfast: This small Nisga’a-run B&B is near the ocean in Gingolx. Reviewers speak highly of the fresh fish dinners. Call (250) 326-4335 for booking and more info.

Gingolx Lodge: Run by the village of Gingolx, the Gingolx Lodge has motel-style accommodations, but they also offer meals. Check prices.

Camping in the Nass Valley

Vetter Creek Campground: Centrally located near the T-junction on Highway 113, the Vetter Creek Campground is part of Nisga’a Memorial Lava Beds Provincial Park. The basic campground has 16 first-come, first-serve sites, outhouses and a water pump. I stayed here for two nights during my trip and it was a great place to base ourselves to see the valley. The only downside – it’s buggy in June and July. More info.

Dragon Lake Campground: You’ll have to drive a bit out of the way to get to the free 12-site campground on Dragon Lake. It’s a 15-minute drive from Gitlax’taamiks (new Aiyansh) down the sometimes bumpy Nass Valley Forest Service Road. More info.

Grizzly Den RV Park: The gas bar in Laxgalts’ap has an RV park in a grassy field near the Nisga’a Museum. They have water, sewer, and power hook-ups. More info.

Tips for Visiting the Nass Valley

The Nass Valley is definitely off-the-beaten-path and has few services, so you need to plan ahead. Here are my top tips for visiting the Nass Valley.

• Respect Indigenous culture and heritage. Do not enter closed areas. Always ask before taking photos, especially of people and cultural objects. Remember that you are a guest on this land.
• Chat with the locals. They are really friendly and often want to share their stories.
• Make hotel and B&B reservations in advance. For camping, you can just turn-up.
• Many businesses are not open consistently. Plan ahead by bringing your own supplies. But if a shop or restaurant is open, please visit it to support the local economy.
• Confirm opening hours for the Museum, hot springs, and Tseax Cone guided hike. Try to plan your trip for a time when you can visit these signature attractions.
• Pack warm and waterproof clothing. It gets chilly and it can rain a lot.
• Bring bug-spray if you camping or visiting the hot springs, especially in June and July.

So that’s everything you need to know to plan a trip to Nisga’a Territory in the Nass Valley. I really encourage you to go – it’s such a unique and special place.

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The post Things to do in the Nass Valley (Nisga’a Territory) in Northern BC appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Planning a trip to Gwaii Haanas can be pretty overwhelming. When I was researching the park before my visit, I had a lot of questions. At first, I wasn’t even sure how to get to the park!

I’ve put together a huge guide to Gwaii Haanas for you that includes everything I learned about the national park. It includes:

• Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve basics including pronunciation, park history, and Indigenous context
• Where is Gwaii Haanas National Park and how do you get there? Plus where to stay nearby.
• A Gwaii Haanas National Park map that shows all the major sites
• Guided tours vs. self-guided? What’s the difference? And what kind of tours can you take?
• Fees and reservations: What do you need to pay for both self-guided and tour participants.
• How much time should you spend in Gwaii Haanas? How many days do you need?
• When to visit Gwaii Haanas? What is the best time of year to go?
• Tips for visiting Haida Watchment cultural sites: How to be respectful.
• Things to do in Gwaii Haanas National Park including Haida cultural sites, kayaking, old-growth trees, and more
• Where to stay in Gwaii Haanas National Park: camping, lodges, and live-aboard boats
• What to pack for Gwaii Haanas National Park

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Basics

The entire southern part of the Haida Gwaii archipelago is protected within Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. Also, much of the surrounding ocean is in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area Reserve because the Haida do not see a distinction between land and water environments.

Here are a few quick facts about Gwaii Haanas:

• The park’s name is pronounced “gwhy hah-nas” and means “islands of beauty” in the Haida language.
• The National Park was established in 1988 following over a decade of protests by the Haida and environmentalists who were concerned about logging and environmental degradation in Haida Gwaii.
• Since 1993, the park has been cooperatively managed by the Council of the Haida Nation and the government of Canada
• SG̱ang Gwaay Llnaagay on Anthony Island in the southern part of the park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site of Canada in 1981
• The park has a unique ecology and is known as the Galapagos of Canada. The temperate rainforest is home to several species found nowhere else, including the Haida Gwaii black bear.
• There are very few facilities in the park. There are no established campgrounds or hotels. The only toilets are composting outhouses at the Haida Watchmen heritage sites.
• Gwaii Haanas, along with the entire Haida Gwaii archipelago, is the traditional territory of the Haida people who have lived here for over 12,000 years. In pre-colonial times, there were over 30,000 Haida, but over 90% of the population died in the 1800s from smallpox. Today there are about 5,000 Haida, and they make up 50% of the population of Haida Gwaii. Gwaii Haanas is one of the best places to experience Indigenous tourism in Canada.
• To help visitors respect this special place, the Haida Nation developed the Haida Gwaii Pledge. All visitors are encouraged to read and sign the pledge.

Where is Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and How Do You Get There?

Getting to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

The only way to get to Gwaii Haanas is by boat. There are no roads in the national park.

To get to Gwaii Haanas National Park you will first need to get to the islands of Haida Gwaii, located on the northwest coast of British Columbia, Canada. Since they are islands, you can only get to Haida Gwaii by ferry or plane. My Haida Gwaii guide has all the info you need on how to get there.

Boat access to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is either with a tour or as an independent traveller. Most tours leave from Moresby Camp, an hour’s drive from Sandspit. But a few tours leave from Daajing Giids, the main village on Haida Gwaii. If you sign up for a tour, it will include transportation to the boat dock from either Sandspit or Daajing Giids.

Where to Stay Near Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Since most tours have an early morning departure, it makes the most sense to stay nearby.

If your tour leaves from Sandspit, I recommend the Seaport B&B. We stayed here before our Gwaii Haanas tour. It has a fun communal atmosphere and a great view of the beach from the front deck.

For Daajing Giids departures, consider Premier Creek Lodging, the oldest hotel in Haida Gwaii. It has a gorgeous garden alongside a creek. Another option is Spruce Point Lodge. It has waterfront motel-style rooms with breakfast delivered each morning.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Map

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is huge, with dozens of islands and hundreds of kilometres of shoreline. The Parks Canada map below provides a great overview of the park. However, if you are self-guided, you will need the appropriate marine charts for navigation.

Even though I was on a tour, I found it really helpful to use the Gaia GPS app on my visit. That way I could see the terrain around us and find out the names of all the little islands and bays that we passed.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Tours vs. Self-Guided

There are two ways to visit Gwaii Haanas National Park: on a guided tour or as an independent traveller in your sailboat, power boat or kayak. I’ve got details on both below.

Pro tip: Book your tip well in advance – popular tours sell out 6 to 12 months before departure date.

Guided Tours in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Unless you are an experienced kayak or boater, it’s best to visit Gwaii Haanas on a guided tour. It’s a huge park with lots of complicated shoreline and sometimes volatile weather. Going with a guide is the safest and most enjoyable option.

But, I’ll be straight with you: visiting Gwaii Haanas isn’t cheap. Some of the tour companies are moderately priced, but many are aimed at the luxury market. To save money, take a shorter tour or a kayak tour.

Only licensed tour operators are allowed to guide tours in Gwaii Haanas. You can find a list of current tour operators on the Parks Canada website. There are a few main types of tours:

Single Day Power Boat Tours

If you only have one day to see the park, you will need to take a power boat tour. Since these tours are single-day, they are the least expensive option. However, they are not cheap – expect to pay $300-600 per person depending on tour type.

These tours typically involve quite a lot of time on the water and not much time on land since the main sites can be a few hours apart. As well, you will only have time to visit a few of the Haida cultural sites.

The main day tour operator is Haida Style Expeditions. They are the only Indigenous-run tour company in Gwaii Haanas National Park. They have closed cabin boats. Moresby Explorers also offers a single-day tour on open zodiacs.

Multi-Day Power Boat Tours

The main operator in this category is Moresby Explorers, the tour company I chose. They offer 2-4 day tours in open zodiacs with accommodation at their floating lodge at the northern boundary of Haida Gwaii or at a very rustic B&B in Rose Harbour. Expect to pay $1200-$2500 depending on tour length.

I loved my tour with Moresby Explorers. Our guide Jamie was incredible. His enthusiasm for the landscape and culture was infectious. We really felt like we were getting an insider’s tour of the park. The food at the floating lodge was also incredible. Chef Ash and her assistant Dani made such a feast.

If you are going to do a tour in Gwaii Haanas National Park, the Moresby Explorers 4-Day tour is my number one pick!

Multi-Day Sailing Tours

Sailing tours are the most luxurious (and therefore the most expensive) tours in Gwaii Haanas National Park. Expect to pay about $5000 to $8000 per person for a week-long tour. These are truly bucket list tours with high-end chefs, on-board naturalists, and even airfare from Vancouver included.

Multi-Day Kayaking Tours

The next time I go to Haida Gwaii, I want to do a kayaking tour. I had an incredible experience kayaking with whales in the Johnstone Strait off the coast of Northern Vancouver Island, and I can’t wait to kayak in Gwaii Haanas National Park.

There are several kayak tour companies licensed to operate in the National Park. Tours are typically five to eight days long and range from about $2000 to $3500 per person. Accommodation is in rustic campsites with no facilities – not even outhouses.

Many tours use a kayak shuttle service where a power boat shuttles the kayaks, gear, and tour group participants into the farther reaches of the park. This means you can concentrate on seeing a specific portion of the park, not paddling long days between sites.

Kayak Mothershipping

Before researching my trip to Haida Gwaii, I had never heard the term “kayak mothershipping”. It refers to travelling on a power boat or sailboat with kayaks on the deck, and then going kayaking from there. Each night you sleep on the power boat or sailboat.

It is a much more comfortable experience than the kayak tours in the park since you won’t be camping. Some tour operators are fancy with chefs on board, while others are more communal, with guests working together to cook meals and perform boat chores. Prices range accordingly, from $4000 all the way up to $10,000 for a week-long tour.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Fees and Reservations

If you are travelling independently, you must make reservations and pay fees to enter Gwaii Haanas National Park. Reservations for the following summer open each year in February.

You must also attend an orientation session, offered most mornings at the park headquarters near Skidegate. Find more info about fees and reservations for independent visitors on the park website.

If you are visiting the park as part of a guided tour, your National Park fees and reservations are included as part of your tour and you don’t need to worry about it.

How Much Time to Spend in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is huge so you will need to set aside some time to see it. It is possible to see the highlights in one or two days if you don’t have the time or budget for a longer trip.

However, to see all the Haida cultural sites as well as have time for wildlife watching and visiting some of the out-of-the-way corners of the park, plan to spend at least four days in the park. Most Gwaii Haanas National Park tours are four to eight days long to ensure that guests get the best experience.

When to Visit Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

The best time to go to Gwaii Haanas National Park is between May and September when the weather is nicest. Most tour companies do not run outside of those months.

July and August are the busiest months since they have the best weather. I went in June and we enjoyed mostly sunny weather. As well, most of the attractions were pretty quiet.

The best months for whale watching are May and September.

Summer in Haida Gwaii can be cool and wet. The driest months are driest months are May, June, and July. August and September are also relatively dry. But you should expect rain at any time. July and August are the warmest months with daily temperatures of 10-18°C (50-64°F). May, June, and September are a little cooler.

Visiting Haida Watchman Sites

There are five Haida Watchmen sites in Gwaii Haanas National Park. These are the main Haida cultural sites in the park. In pre-colonial times, Haida villages often had watchmen to warn citizens of approaching enemies.

The contemporary Watchmen program began in 1981 as a volunteer program, before the park was formed as a way for the Haida to attempt to safeguard their traditional territory against logging and poaching of the carvings and other cultural items.

In the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, the BC government stole monumental poles from K’uuna, SGangwaay, and T’aanuu. The government wanted to protect and preserve the poles in museums. Since the 1970s, the government has returned some of the stolen poles to the Haida.

Today the Haida Watchmen are paid employees of Parks Canada and the Council of the Haida Nation. Each Haida Watchmen site is staffed by two watchmen (who can be of any gender despite the term watchmen). Watchmen can be as young as 16 or in their 70s. They live in small off-the-grid cabins on site and provide tours to visitors.

How to Show Respect at Haida Watchmen Sites

You must act respectfully when visiting Haida Watchmen sites. These are important places of culture and history. Here are my tips for showing respect:

• Listen carefully. It is a privilege to be here and hear the Haida stories. The Haida Watchmen may choose which parts of their own, their clan’s or their Nation’s oral history to share. Each visit is unique.
• Stay on the paths, which are outlined with shells. What may look like a log to you may be a fallen house pole or monumental pole, so watch where you step.
• Do not take photos of anything without permission, including of the Watchmen themselves. The Watchmen know the best spots to take pictures and will let you know.
• If you wish, bring a small gift. In coastal Indigenous cultures gift giving is an important part of diplomacy and respect – it is rude to arrive empty-handed. (You will learn about potlatch culture from the Watchmen.) Bringing a gift is not required or even expected, but it is polite. If you bring a gift, keep it small and consider bringing something from your hometown or culture. We brought handmade chocolate bars made by a local shop in our hometown of Squamish.

Things to Do in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

If you are on a tour in Gwaii Haanas, your guide will set your itinerary and make sure that see you all the major sites. But here’s a brief run-down of the major things to do and see.

SGang Gwaay

SGang Gwaay is the most famous site in Gwaii Haanas National Park. It is pronounced “ss-gang gwhy”. In Haida, the name means Wailing Island because sometimes the tides push air through a hole in a rock nearby and it sounds like a crying woman. It is also called Ninstints (or Nan Sdins) after a famous chief who lived here in the mid-1800s.

The site is located on Anthony Island near the southern tip of the park. It can be hard to reach in bad weather since it is so remote. On my trip, we battled through waves and a huge fog bank to get there.

SGang Gwaay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site to protect the remains of Haida houses and mortuary and memorial poles (which are often incorrectly called totem poles). Unlike other sites in Gwaii Haanas, many of the poles are still standing.

This is one of the five Haida Watchmen sites in Gwaii Haanas. When you arrive, one of the Watchmen will take you on a walking tour of the site. SGang Gwaay is the largest Watchmen site, with a 1.5 km loop trail that heads through the forest, then along the beach to the village site.

Your Watchman guide will explain Haida culture and give you lots of information about the history of the village site and the cultural significance of the monumental poles.

For many people, SGang Gwaay is the most special place in Gwaii Haanas National Park. I found the whole experience very moving.

Our guide was a 17-year-old Haida girl who had just finished high school and was working as a Watchman before heading off to university. It was interesting to see Haida culture continuing through the generations and to witness the juxtaposition of carrying on an ancient culture while also living in the modern world.

K’uuna (Skedans)

While K’uuna is usually visited as part of a trip to Gwaii Haanas National Park, it’s not actually in the park. Instead, it is part of K’unna Gwaay Conservancy, protected by BC Parks and also part of the Haida Heritage Site, protected by the Haida Watchmen.

K’unna is a former village site located on the northern side of Louise Island, just north of the National Park boundary. Sometimes spelled Koona, the site is also known as Skedans, which is the English name for the Haida village site there. It is believed that Skedans comes from the name of the village chief in the late 1800s, Gida’nsta. In Haida, K’unna means “edge” and Llnagaay means “village”, so its name means village on the edge.

The village was abandoned amid the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s. Today you can see the remains of a few long houses as well as some monumental poles and carvings. The Haida Watchmen will guide you around the site.

In the early 1900s, Canadian artist Emily Carr visited K’uuna. Her paintings of the monumental poles still standing at that time sparked broader interest in Haida art and culture.

T’aanuu (Tanu)

T’aanuu is another former Haida village site that is now a Haida Watchmen site. It is a designated National Historic Site of Canada. In Haida, the village’s name means eel grass, since there is so much sea grass near the village.

It is located on Tanu Island at the very northern edge of Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve.

Haida Watchmen will guide you around the site to show you the remains of long houses and monumental poles. You can also visit the headstone of Bill Reid (Iljuwas), one of the most significant Haida artists. His carvings are famous throughout Canada.

We happened to visit at low tide and the Watchmen showed us a unique clearing in the rocks exposed by the low water. They explained that the Haida had likely used it as an octopus farm, allowing the octopuses to mature in the rock piles, and then harvesting them once they were big enough to eat.

Hot Springs Island

Having a soak at Hot Springs Island is a must when you visit Gwaii Haanas National Park. In Haida, the island is known as Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay. It’s one of the best hot springs in Canada.

The Haida Watchmen act as caretakers of the site, cleaning the tubs and providing info about the area. In pre-colonial times the island was home to shamans and was very spiritually significant to the Haida. However, most of the Haida population perished during the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s. The shamans were the most involved in attempting to heal the sick, so unfortunately, today the Haida are not sure what kind of cultural practices occurred on Hot Springs Island.

You can visit Hot Springs Island for an hour-long soak in the hot pools. There are changing cubicles at the entrance. You must take a hot shower in the shower building before you get into the springs.

There are three hot pools built into the rock. Each one is fairly small and can fit 3-6 people. The one next to the shower building has the lowest temperature. The two pools set into the hillside above the changing hut have the best views but the one at the top is scorching hot.

In October 2012, a 7.8 magnitude earthquake struck Haida Gwaii and the hot pools mysteriously drained. Over the next few years, hot water slowly returned to the island. The current pools opened in 2017. Parks Canada staff don’t know where the water on Hot Springs Island comes from but they think it may be groundwater from nearby Lyell Island.

Windy Bay

Known as Hlk’yah GawG̱a in Haida, Windy Bay is another Haida Watchmen site. But unlike the other Watchmen sites, this place is not famous for its historical value but rather for more recent events. In the 1980s, the Haida became concerned at the pace of logging in their traditional territory. They began a protest movement that ultimately resulted in the preservation of Gwaii Haanas and the co-management of the area by the Haida along with the government.

During the protests, the Haida built a longhouse at Windy Bay, called “Looking Around and Blinking House”. It housed Haida protestors and today you can tour the interior.

In 2013, the Haida, along with Parks Canada staff and other volunteers raised a huge monumental pole at Windy Bay, the first one in Gwaii Haanas in 130 years. Called the Legacy Pole, the pole honours the 20th anniversary of cooperative management between Canada and the Haida Nation. Look for the Haida Watchmen depicted at the top of the pole.

On the other side of the creek from the longhouse and Legacy Pole, there is a short trail to a huge old-growth Sitka spruce which is about 900 years old.

Wildlife Watching

Gwaii Haanas National Park is famous for its wildlife watching. With lots of narrow channels and rocky islands, you can spot tons of marine life.

Whales and Marine Life

Whales and dolphins are very common. Grey and humpback whales migrate through the islands each spring and fall. Orcas (killer whales), Minke whales, dolphins, and porpoises live in the National Park year-round. Your guide will get intel over the radio from other guides when whales or dolphins are spotted so you will have the best chance of seeing them.

While whale sightings aren’t guaranteed, you will definitely see seals and sea lions. Several of the rocky islets are home to huge seal and sea lion colonies. They haul themselves out of the water to rest so they are easy to spot. The huge male sea lions are fun to watch as they bark and growl at each other.

There’s also a whole underwater world to discover. Our guide nosed our boat up against cliffs to see purple starfish clinging to rocks and anemones swaying in the current. I loved watching jellyfish pulse below the surface from the dock of the floating lodge. And the slow trip through the kelp forests of Burnaby Narrows was magical.

Birds

You should also keep an eye out for tons of bird species. If you aren’t a bird nerd before going to Gwaii Haanas, you will be after your trip! On my trip, we spotted lots of bald eagles. We also saw lots of black oystercatchers, cormorants, ancient murrelets, and pigeon guillemots. The most exciting part for me was seeing a pair of tufted puffins. So cute!

Bears

I was surprised to learn that Haida Gwaii has its own sub-species of black bears (Ursus americanus carlottae). They are a bit bigger than black bears in the rest of BC since they feed on a high-fat diet of salmon and shellfish. Spotting black bears on the beaches is common. If you visit in September, you might also see bears at river mouths gorging on spawning salmon.

Rose Harbour

Rose Harbour is surrounded by Gwaii Haanas National Park, but it is actually a private in-holding within the park. It is the only private property within the park. The small settlement was founded as a whaling station in 1910. Whaling operations ended in the 1940s and the land was sold to a group of ten friends in 1976.

Since then, the original ten friends and their descendants have built homes at Rose Harbour. Most are summer-only places, but there are a few year-round residents. It’s an interesting place to explore (with the permission of the owners).

With advance booking, you can stay at the very rustic Rose Harbour Guest House. I stayed there for one night on my four-day tour with Moresby Explorers. Goetz, the eccentric owner, built the guest house himself, mostly from salvaged materials. He also has a huge (and fascinating) organic garden next door.

You can also have a meal at the cookhouse (again with advance booking). For years, Susan, one of the original Rose Harbour owners, offered incredible meals in her home kitchen. But these days her daughter Frances serves food out of the newly built cookhouse. Much of the produce is grown in Susan’s huge garden!

Old-Growth Forests

While the northern part of the National Park was logged in the 1970s and 80s, most of the park is full of pristine old-growth forest. It’s a coastal rainforest ecosystem, with tons of western Hemlock interspersed with Sitka spruce and Western red cedar.

You can go ashore at pretty much any beach and wander into the forest to see giant old-growth trees. But if you go with a guide, they will take you to some of the most impressive specimens, which can be over 200 ft (61 m) tall.

Abandoned Logging Camp

Although it is not inside the national park, Aero Camp is a common place to stop. It’s located a few minutes by water from Moresby Camp, the launch point for boat tours to Gwaii Haanas.

Aero Camp was a huge logging camp in from the 1930s until the late 1960s. It had a logging railroad and a post office. Today the huge pilings on the beach hint at how large the camp was. If you go ashore, you can explore abandoned machinery, trucks, and a storage tank that you can crawl inside.

Kayaking

Haida Gwaii is known for its incredible kayaking. With so much varied shoreline with hundreds of islands and peninsulas, Gwaii Haanas National Park is a great place for a kayak trip.

If you are an experienced kayaker, you can plan your own expedition to the park. However, you will need to make reservations and go through a mandatory park orientation. As well, since distances in the park are so great, many paddlers pay to have their kayaks transported by motor boat deeper into the park so they can maximize time at the best scenery.

Most of the tour operators in Gwaii Haanas National Park offer kayaking, either as an expedition-style kayak trip with camping or day trips from motor boats or sailboats. On my trip with Moresby Explorers, we were able to kayak in the evenings in the quiet bay around their floating lodge.

Fishing

People travel from all over the world to fish in Haida Gwaii. You can catch salmon, halibut, lingcod, rockfish, and more. Remember that you will need a Tidal Waters Sport Fishing License, which you can buy online.

You can only fish in saltwater in Gwaii Haanas and many areas have fishing restrictions or closures, so it is important to read maps carefully.

Most tour operators in the National Park can incorporate fishing into your visit, but you may have to request it.

Hiking

Since Gwaii Haanas is mostly a marine National Park, there are few hiking trails in the park. The only established trails are the short ones at the Haida Watchmen sites.

Besides the Watchmen sites, there are no hiking trails in Gwaii Haanas National Park. If you explore inland away from the beaches, you will find thick coastal rainforest and steep terrain.

Where to Stay in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

There are no hotels inside Gwaii Haanas National Park. However, there are two rustic lodges located just outside the park boundary. The easiest way to arrange accommodation is to go with a tour. Below I’ve got a breakdown of where to stay in Gwaii Haanas National Park

Camping

There are no formal campgrounds in Gwaii Haanas National Park. However, you are permitted to camp on beaches in most of the park. (A few areas are closed to camping.) But you should expect no facilities. That means no toilets, garbage cans, picnic tables, or even level tent sites.

Most of the campers in the national park are kayakers, either travelling independently or on tours. If you go with a kayak guide, they can recommend the best beaches for camping.

Live-Aboard

Many independent visitors and tour participants stay on board their vessels inside the park. There are lots of sheltered bays to anchor. Facilities vary by tour vessel, but you can expect bunks or small rooms with shared toilets.

Lodges

There are two lodges located just outside the boundaries of the national park.

The first is the Rose Harbour Guest House, located in the southern part of the park. It is the only private land within the National Park. Anyone can stay here with an advance booking.

It is very rustic with a shared outhouse outside. However, it does have a wood-fired hot shower. Some kayak tours and longer tours from Moresby Explorers spend a night here. I stayed here as part of my Moresby Explorers tour. It’s eclectic and definitely an interesting place to visit!

The other lodge is the Moresby Explorers floating lodge located just north of the park boundary in Crescent Inlet. The only way to stay here is to take part in a Moresby Explorers tour. The two-story floating lodge has simple bedrooms and shared bathrooms with flush toilets and running water. Unfortunately, they don’t have showers. But, the food is incredible!

What to Pack for Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

If you go on a tour in Haida Gwaii, they usually provide some gear. For boat tours, operators provide rain gear, rubber boots, and insulated float coats, which double as life jackets. Check with your tour operator to see what they provide and what they expect you to bring – most tours will give you a packing list.

In general, here are a few things you should pack for Gwaii Haanas National Park:

• Even if your tour gives you a float coat, you should still pack your own rain jacket. The float coats are heavy and warm, so you might want to walk around in your own rain jacket when you are on land.
• Warm layers. It can be cold in Haida Gwaii, especially out on the water. Bring long underwear and a warm fleece or lightweight puffy jacket.
• Quick-dry hiking clothing.
• Hiking boots or trail runners.
• Sunglasses
• Camera
• Binoculars
• Sunscreen
• Bathing suit and quick dry towel for Hot Springs Island

So that’s everything you need to know to plan a trip to Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii. This was an incredible bucket list experience for me and I’m sure it will be for you too!

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