Penticton is a great place to base yourself for a summer visit to the Okanagan. It’s a cute and walkable city that sits between two big lakes, making it a clear beach destination with sand, kayaking, ice cream, etc. But there’s lots more to Penticton too.

My favourite part of the visit was an easy e-bike ride up into wine country with great views. Our turn around point was an old railway tunnel, which was really cool. I was also surprised by how relaxed everything felt. No one was in a hurry to get somewhere – everyone was just chilling out at the beach, on the patio, or at a winery.

I also discovered that Penticton is a great place to base yourself for day trips to nearby towns like Naramata and Osoyoos, home of one of Canada’s desert environments.

In this post, I’ve got everything you need to know about visiting Penticton in summer. These tips work for spring and fall, too.

This post includes:

• A map of Penticton that includes all the places I mention in this post.
• Best things to do in Penticton in summer: beaches, wineries, biking, kayaking, day trips, and more.
• Where to eat in Penticton: My picks for the best restaurants and cafes
• Where to stay in Penticton: The places I stayed at and loved
• Summer in Penticton basics: How to get there? How long to spend? What’s the weather like? And lots more.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Thanks so much to Visit Penticton, Destination Osoyoos, and Discover Naramata for hosting some of my experiences on my trip. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. – Taryn

Map of Penticton

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of Penticton for you. It includes every place I mention in this post.

The 10 Best Things to do in Penticton in Summer

There are dozens of things to do in Penticton during the summer months. Here are my top 10 picks of things I recommend.

Hit the Beach

Penticton is sandwiched between Okanagan Lake and Skaha Lake, so it is definitely a beach town. Both lakes have sandy beaches. Since it’s a bigger lake, the water in Okanagan Lake can be a bit colder than Skaha Lake. But on a hot day, it’s wonderfully refreshing.

On the Okanagan Lake side of town, you can swim at Okanagan Beach along Lakeshore Drive. It has a roped-off swimming area, washrooms, and trees for shade. It’s within walking distance of downtown Penticton.

On the Skaha Lake side, there is a long stretch of sand at Skaha Lake Park. Like Okanagan Beach, it has a swimming area, washrooms, and shade trees. But it also has a playground and a water park, so it’s great for kids.

Stroll the Promenade

One of the first things I did when I arrived in Penticton was stroll along the Promenade on Okanagan Lake next to Lakeshore Drive. It stretches for several kilometres along the shores of Okanagan Lake from the S.S. Sicamous Museum in the west to the marina in the east.

The path is a great place to enjoy the views of the lake and the huge Penticton sign on Mount Munson. The people watching is also excellent. Be sure to stop for some ice cream at Lickity Splitz or Tickleberry’s inside the giant peach.

Continue past the pier and Penticton Lakeside Resort into Okanagan Lake Park to check out the cute Ikeda Japanese Garden. It is maintained by volunteers.

Don’t miss the yellow-bellied marmot colony in the rocks at Marina Way Park. They are so cute! These members of the groundhog family don’t typically live in cities, but these marmots didn’t get the memo. Please don’t feed them – human food is junk food for wildlife and can make them sick.

Visit Wineries and Breweries

Penticton is at the heart of the Okanagan’s wine country. There are wineries on the edge of town as well as on the Naramata Bench northeast of the city. I’m not a wine drinker, so I didn’t visit any wineries on my visit. However, friends have raved about wine tasting here.

Since the wineries are spread out along winding roads, booking a wine tasting tour can be an easy and safe way to do it. You’ll get time at several wineries and a guide to be your designated driver.

• This Naramata half day small group wine tour includes visits to four wineries. All tasting fees and a tip for your drive is included in the tour price so you don’t need to worry about getting your wallet out!
• Or book a private tour with a wine expert who will drive you in your own vehicle and help you create the perfect itineray for your group.

There is also a very strong craft brewery scene in Penticton. While the town has a population of about 37,000, it has seven craft breweries!

I only had time to visit two breweries on my trip: Cannery Brewing and Abandoned Rail Brewing.

Cannery Brewing has a huge taproom as well as a cool outdoor space called the Backyard. Be sure to try their seasonal beers. My friend loved their Darkling Oatmeal Stout.

Abandoned Rail Brewing is just outside of Penticton on the Kettle Valley Rail Trail. They have some indoor seating but the best spots are in the shade of their little orchard.

Bike the Kettle Valley Rail Trail

By far the best thing I did on my trip to Penticton was biking the Kettle Valley Rail Trail. We rented e-bikes from Pedego Penticton, which made the bike ride very low effort – I didn’t really even sweat (which is a miracle for me!)

The Kettle Valley Railway once stretched for hundreds of kilometres across southern British Columbia from Hope to Midway in the West Kootenays. After the railway was abandoned, it became a recreational trail. The section in Penticton starts near downtown and traverses the hillside wineries along the Naramata Bench.

I biked as far as Little Tunnel, which is a cool old train tunnel you can bike through. It has spectacular views overlooking Okanagan Lake. It has picnic tables so you can enjoy a lunch break – we brought sandwiches and snacks from The Bench Market, which we passed on our ride out of Penticton. We also stopped for delicious apple slushies at Abandoned Rail Brewing on the way back. It’s right next to the trail.

The ride is gently uphill all the way to Little Tunnel, but with the assist from the e-bikes, it was relatively easy. We spent about 4 hours on the trail, which included time for lots of breaks for photos, lunch at Little Tunnel, and hanging out in the shady orchard at Abandoned Rail Brewing.

Shop the Farmers’ Market

I spent a fun hour wandering around downtown Penticton to check out the booths at the market. Every Saturday in the spring, summer, and fall, several blocks of Main Street turn into a huge outdoor market. Actually, it is two markets that set up next to each other:

The Penticton Farmer’s Market focuses on fruit, veggies, baking, preserves, and crafts. Everything at the market is made, grown, or baked by locals.

The Downtown Community Market features crafts, clothing, food trucks, jewellery, antiques, and tons more.

Go Kayaking

I was excited to explore Penticton from the water. We rented kayaks at Pier Water Sports next to the Penticton Lakeside Resort. The sit-on-top kayaks were perfect for splashing around on a hot day.

It was a bit windy when we went out (which is common in the afternoon), so we stuck close to the shoreline and paddled along the beach towards the S.S. Sicamous, then past the resort to the marina. It was cool to see the city from the lake. And it was nice to get some chill time on the water.

Hike Munson Mountain

As soon as I spotted the huge white letters spelling out “Penticton” on the side of a hill Hollywood Sign-style, I knew I wanted to go up there. We made the short drive out of town to Munson Mountain Park.

It’s an easy walk from the parking lot to a great viewpoint with benches. If you’re up for it, you can follow a trail uphill to an even higher vantage point directly above the Penticton sign. The view from the top is incredible. You can see the town of Penticton to the south and Okanagan Lake stretching away to the north.

While researching this article, I found out that Munson Mountain is actually one of Canada’s Historic Places – the sign dates back to 1937.

The path to the lower viewpoint is only 200 m. The full trail up to the top viewpoint and back is about 1 km and is fairly steep in places. Allow about 30 minutes.

Float the Channel

When I told friends I had been to Penticton, a few of them asked if I had floated the channel. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time for this famous Penticton experience… but I guess that just means I’ll need to go back!

A seven-kilometre-long natural lazy-river channel connects Okanagan Lake to Skaha Lake. Locals and visitors have been floating the channel for decades. You can bring your own tube or rent one locally. Coyote Cruises offers a tube and bus combo that includes floatie rental and a ride back to the start.

Chill out in Naramata

The sleepy village of Naramata is just 20 minutes north of Penticton. The hills above the village are home to over a dozen wineries. I spent a relaxing day in Naramata, swimming at the quiet local beach, chilling out in the garden at The Village Motel, and wandering the quaint streets.

The sunset views in Naramata were incredible because it faces west across Okanagan Lake. (Penticton’s beaches face north (Okanagan Beach) or south (Skaha Beach), so the sunsets aren’t as good.)

We loved the pizza at Real Things and coffee in the morning from Just Baked.

Discover Naramata has put together some GPS-guided audio tours, which sound really cool. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to try them on my trip. Next time, I want to try their tour that includes the hike to Naramata Falls and the garden tour in Naramata Village.

Take a Day Trip to Osoyoos

The town of Osoyoos is just one hour south of Penticton, and it’s a gorgeous drive past several lakes and through orchards and vineyards. It’s home to a unique desert environment and makes a great day trip from Penticton. If you don’t want to drive yourself, you can book a day tour to Osoyoos that hits the desert highlights.

If you’re just visiting Osoyoos for the day, there are a few key places I recommend visiting.

Osoyoos Desert Centre

The first is the Osoyoos Desert Centre. This conservation area has exhibits and a 1.5-kilometre-long walking trail that highlights the unique flora and fauna of the Okanagan Desert. I took one of their guided tours, and I definitely recommend it. I learned so much about how the plants and animals survive this harsh landscape. And speaking of a harsh landscape – bring a hat, water and sunscreen. It’s hot out there with no shade.

Spotted Lake

You also can’t miss Spotted Lake, known as kłlilx’^w to the Syilx people. It’s located on the side of Highway 3 just outside of Osoyoos. The lake evaporates in the summer, leaving behind concentrated minerals that look like spots. It’s a sacred place for the Syilx, so you can only see the lake from the roadside pullout. But that’s ok, because it has a great view.

Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre

Lastly, I recommend the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre. It’s a great Indigenous museum just outside of Osoyoos. They have a small indoor museum with exhibits about the culture and history of the Osoyoos Indian Band. But I enjoyed the self-guided outdoor exhibits the most. Several trails wind through the desert to a reconstructed village and other hands-on displays. The trails also have great views of Osoyoos. I spotted lots of wildflowers too.

Where to Eat in Penticton

Penticton and the surrounding area have tons of restaurant options. Here are a few that I recommend.

Wayne & Freda

Wayne & Freda is a cute coffee shop located inside a former auto repair shop in downtown Penticton. They have a huge sunny patio. This is a great place to start the day: their breakfast sandwich is amazing. I also loved their spring toast. It’s an avocado toast with pesto and lots of veggies. They also have sandwiches if you’re here at lunch.

The Bench Market

Stop at the Bench Market to pick up takeout lunch on your way to bike the Kettle Valley Rail Trail. The cafe is on Vancouver Street just outside of downtown Penticton. They have great sandwiches and a well-stocked deli. Or stay and eat on their cute patio. They serve breakfast all day, too.

Cannery Brewing

Cannery Brewing in downtown Penticton has a huge taproom and a fun outdoor seating area called the Backyard. They have lots of craft beer on tap (of course). It’s easy to try a few kinds by ordering a flight. For non-beer drinkers like me, they have wine, cider, cocktails, and non-alcoholic options like craft soda and kombucha.

If you’re hungry, they have classic snacks like charcuterie boards and pretzels alongside substantial sandwiches. We had the Santa Fe nachos – they were huge and delicious.

Abandoned Rail Brewing

Head to Abandoned Rail Brewing just outside of Penticton to eat and drink in the orchard. It’s right on the Kettle Valley Rail Trail, and their huge bike rack was stuffed with dozens of bikes on my visit.

They serve craft beer, but we went for their famous apple slushies, which really hit the spot after a bike ride in the sun. While we were there, we saw lots of people ordering their wood-fired pizzas. I’ll have to go back to try them. The prosciutto blackberry brie pizza sounds incredible.

The Hooded Merganser

If you’re looking for something a bit upscale with an incredible view, eat at The Hooded Merganser. It’s right on the Okanagan Lake… actually it’s in the lake since the restaurant is built on pilings over the water in front of the Penticton Lakeside Resort. The menu features elevated classics like lamb chops, steak frites, and parmesan-crusted halibut. They also have great pasta – my mushroom cannelloni was such a delicious umami bomb.

Real Things Pizza

If you’re in Naramata, get pizza from Real Things Pizza. It’s take-out or delivery only (no eat-in), but that just means that you get to eat dinner next to the water at one of Naramata’s beaches. Or in the garden at The Village Motel, like we did. Their pizzas have lots of fun flavour combinations, many of which were developed by their staff of local teenagers. Or you can get a classic Hawaiian like I did. (Yes, I believe pineapple belongs on pizza – don’t yuck my yum.)

Just Baked

Also in Naramata, don’t miss Just Baked. It’s a tiny coffee shop and bakery in The Village Motel. They have great scones, but I couldn’t resist eating one of their decadent brownies for breakfast!

The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry

If you’re looking for something different, head to The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry. It is located at the Indigenous-owned Spirit Ridge Resort just outside of Osoyoos.

The upscale food is Indigenous inspired and guided by their four food chiefs: the bear, the fish (salmon), the root (bitterroot) and the berry (Saskatoon berry). I had an incredible salmon eggs Benedict made with bannock, and my friend enjoyed a bison burger. One of the best parts of the restaurant is the view of Osoyoos and the lake from the patio.

Where to Stay in Penticton

There are tons of hotels, motels, and resorts in Penticton. Here are two that I stayed at recommend.

Penticton Lakeside Resort

I spent two nights at the Penticton Lakeside Resort. We stayed in a suite in the new West Wing Tower. I couldn’t believe how huge the suite was! It had an enormous bedroom as well as a big living room and a patio. Floor-to-ceiling windows gave us views of the lake and a park.

The resort has several different room types, many with lake views. They also have a few restaurants on the property, including the Hooded Merganser.

We really enjoyed how central this hotel was. It was an easy walk to the beach, the farmer’s market, and tons of restaurants.

Check rates.

The Village Motel

I spent the final night of my trip at The Village Motel in Naramata. It’s a retro bungalow-style motel with rooms arranged around a central garden courtyard. The rooms are cute, but they are small. However, you won’t mind because you’ll want to spend all of your time in the garden.

When we arrived in the late afternoon, several of the other guests were lazing around the garden quietly reading books and drinking wine. It looked so relaxing that we joined them immediately! I loved listening to the birds in the trees. We even spotted an owl!

There is an adorable coffee shop, Just Baked, on the property. Or you can pick up pizza from Real Things just up the road – that’s what we did for dinner. The rooms have kitchenettes, too, if you want to cook.

Check rates.

Penticton Basics

In this section, I’ve got practicalities for a summer visit to Penticton. It includes getting there, getting around, weather, what to pack, and more.

How to Get to Penticton

Penticton sits along Highway 97 in BC’s Okanagan region. Like most people, I visited Penticton by car. It’s an easy drive from major centres like Vancouver (4.5 hours), Calgary (8 hours), and Kelowna (1 hour). I like to use DiscoverCars to book car rentals since the site lets you compare prices across different rental companies.

You can also fly directly to Penticton from Vancouver via Pacific Coastal Airlines and from Calgary and Edmonton via Westjet. There are even more routes into Kelowna, which is only one hour away. On my trip, my friend flew into Kelowna and I picked her up. She said it was a short and easy flight.

You can also get to Penticton via public transportation. The Ebus goes from from Vancouver to Kelowna. From there, transfer to route 70 on the Okanagan Similkameen Transit System.

Getting Around Penticton

One of Penticton’s tourism slogans is that they are “fuel free… almost”. You can get around to most places in town by walking, biking, or paddling. For most of my trip, my car stayed in my hotel’s parking garage!

While you can drive to some of the day trip destinations in this guide, like Osoyoos or Naramata, you can also take the bus instead. (BC Transit Route 40 goes from Penticton to Osoyoos and Route 10 goes to Naramata.) If you want to go wine tasting, booking a small-group or private wine tour is your best bet since you won’t have to worry about drinking and driving.

How Long to Spend in Penticton in Summer

I spent a long weekend in Penticton, and I think that’s the perfect amount of time for a visit. In three or four days, you can see the highlights without being too rushed. However, I do wish I had been able to stay longer and just chill out. A week would have been ideal.

Summer Weather in Penticton

Penticton has similar weather to other destinations in the south Okanagan.

Summers are hot and dry. The average temperature from June to September is 14°C to 30°C (56 to 87F°); however, some days can be much hotter. It also rarely rains during the summer, about twice a month. Once the sun goes down, it cools off a lot.

What to Pack for Penticton in Summer

Penticton is pretty laid back, so you don’t need to pack anything too fancy. If you plan to visit some of the nicer restaurants or wineries, pack a cute summer dress or a pair of khakis and a button-down shirt. But otherwise, casual wear is fine.

The summer sun here is no joke. Bring sunscreen and a sun hat. You should also pack a water bottle since it is easy to get dehydrated in the heat. I use a Hydro Flask bottle because it is insulated, so it keeps my water cold.

This is a lake town, so bring all your beach stuff: swimsuit, sandals, sun hat, etc. Most hotels and resorts provide beach towels.

If you plan to bike or hike, bring a small backpack, hiking shoes, and quick-dry clothing. I like to wear a long-sleeved sun hoodie since it means I don’t have to constantly reapply sunscreen. I’ve got a list of my favourite sun hoodies, but my top pick is the Mountain Hardwear Crater Lake.

Indigenous Context in Penticton

The southern Okanagan, including Penticton, Naramata, and Osoyoos, is the traditional territory of the Syilx Okangan Nation (pronounced “see-yil-th”) who speak nsyilxcən. The Nation comprises seven member communities, including the Penticton Indian Band and Osoyoos Indian Band.

The name Penticton comes from the nsyilxcən word snpintktn, which is often translated as “a place to stay forever”. However, a more accurate translation is “a place where people have always been all year long” since this area is rich in hunting, fishing, and gathering in all seasons.

Today, the Syilx still live in the southern Okanagan and continue to practice their traditions and culture. It is important to be respectful of Indigenous lands, culture, and traditions when you visit. If you want to learn more about the Syilx, visit the Nk’mip Desert Cultural Centre in Osoyoos, run by the Osoyoos Indian Band.

Final Thoughts

I was surprised by how much I liked Penticton. I think it was the laid-back atmosphere. I’d love to go back and spend more time there. On my next trip, I’ll probably do more biking, and I’d like to float the channel. But other than that, I’m looking forward to just soaking up more of the summer vibes.

Do you have questions about visiting Penticton in the summer? Ask away in the comments, and I’ll help you out.

READ NEXT:

• 30+ Things to Do in Vernon, BC
• 22 Weekend Getaways from Vancouver
• Tips for Hiking in Hot Weather
• Best Sun Hoodies for Hiking

The post 10 Things to Do in Penticton in Summer appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I live in nearby Squamish so I have paddled the River of Golden Dreams both in my own canoe and in a rented kayak. But it’s easy for visitors to enjoy it too since you can take a tour or rent a canoe or kayak (which I’ve done and think is lots of fun). It’s a gorgeous trip with views of the mountains and lots of big trees and flowering huckleberry bushes.

In this guide to the River of Golden Dreams, I’ve got everything you need to know to plan a trip. It includes:

• FAQ: How long does it take? When to go? And lots more.
• Map: A custom map showing all the important spots
• Padding Directions: Step-by-step instructions for the whole trip
• How to Get There: Bus and driving directions plus info on how to get back from the finishing point
• What to Bring: A packing checklist of what you’ll want to bring and wear.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

River of Golden Dreams FAQ

Where is the River of Golden Dreams?

The River of Golden Dreams is a quiet section of Alta Creek that makes a natural lazy river as it flows between Alta Lake and Green Lake in the heart of the Whistler Valley.

How long does it take to paddle the River of Golden Dreams?

The entire route is about 6.5 km long. Plan to spend about 2-3 hours paddling.

When is the best time to paddle the River of Golden Dreams?

July to mid-August has the best water conditions. At that time of year, the river isn’t so fast that you need expert paddling skills or so slow that there isn’t enough water.

Experienced paddlers can tackle the river from May to early July if they are comfortable handling fast-moving water with lots of sharp turns. There is also a portage at this time of year due to low bridge clearance.

After mid-August, water levels are low and parts of the river are very dry. This means that you will have to portage a dry section that is about 600 m long. You may also have to lift your canoe over several beaver dams. See the paddling route description below for more details.

The river is too high and dangerous to paddle in the spring (March and April) and fall (October and November). It is frozen in the winter (December, January, and February).

How much paddling experience do you need for the River of Golden Dreams? Can you just float down the lazy river?

While it is billed as a lazy river, you do have to do a bit of paddling to steer. If you don’t, you’ll get stuck in the bushes on the sides or even dumped from your boat in the faster-moving bits. But there are lots of parts where you can just chill and let the current carry you along.

The River of Golden Dreams is fairly easy as far as moving water goes, but it does require some experience and knowledge of paddling techniques. Paddling on a moving river is a bit different (and more challenging) than paddling on a lake.

You don’t need any paddling experience if you go with a guided tour. They will help you navigate and teach you the best way to paddle.

If you have a little bit of paddling experience, you will be fine on your own as long as water conditions are good. In high water or low water, you need to be an experienced paddler.

Can you paddle the River of Golden Dreams self-guided? Or do you need to go with a tour?

If you have your own boat, you can paddle self-guided. You can also rent a boat and go self-guided. Your boat rental includes a shuttle back to the start. Keep in mind that if you rent a boat and need rescue, the rental companies will charge you a rescue fee. You can book a self-guided tour in advance or just show up to the rental shack and hope they still have boats available.

If you’re not sure of your skills, take a tour. Tours includes boat rental, shuttle, instruction, and info along the way about plants, animals, and Whistler’s history. And this tour includes transportation to and from Whistler village. If you are a beginner, I recommend taking a tour as it can be tough to turn in the river if you don’t have some paddling skills.

How much does the River of Golden Dreams cost?

It’s free to paddle if you have your own boat. If you need to rent a canoe or kayak, it’s about $130 for boat rental and shuttle. Or you can go on a guided tour for about $165.

What kind of boat do you need for the River of Golden Dreams?

Canoes and kayaks work best as they are durable, stable, and easy to steer. I’ve done the River of Golden Dreams in both a canoe and a kayak.

Kayaks are easier to paddle and can feel more stable since you sit lower in the water. But they are harder to get in and out of if you need to portage or navigate beaver dams. You’ll also get a LOT wetter if you kayak since the paddle drips water in the boat. And if you get in and out with wet feet, you’ll drip more water inside. You sit on the bottom of the boat, so you are almost guaranteed a wet butt.

Canoes require a bit more skill to paddle, especially if you sit in the back, which is the steering position. However, it’s easy to learn if you take a guided tour. Canoes are easier to get in and out of and easier to portage. You also sit higher in the boat so you stay drier.

Paddleboards can also be ok on a warm day if you are ok with getting wet… because you will get wet. But use caution with inflatable SUPS. There can be lots of sharp sticks and logs, especially later in the season when the beaver dams are exposed.

You might see people taking inflatable air mattresses, pool toys, and big box store inflatable boats like Explorer 200s. Don’t do that. They pop easily, leaving you stranded in cold water. They also can be hard to fish out of the water when they pop, which pollutes the river.

Are there bears on the River of Golden Dreams?

Yes. Black bear sightings are common. If you see a bear, keep paddling and let them be. The bears just want to eat from the berry bushes – they aren’t interested in paddlers. Read my guide to bear safety for more tips.

What is the Indigenous context of the River of Golden Dreams?

The River of Golden Dreams is in the traditional territory of the Lil’wat and Skwxwu7mesh (Squamish) Nations. According to the oral tradition of these nations, they shared the Whistler Valley, using summer camps here to harvest plants and animals. To learn more about the Lil’wat and Skwxwu7mesh, visit the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre.

River of Golden Dreams Maps

The River of Golden Dreams is fairly easy to navigate, but if you are on your own, you’ll need a map. I made a custom map in Gaia GPS for you. It shows you all the key points along the route. Click through to zoom in and explore.

The Municipality of Whistler also has a good map that shows the key portage section. (Don’t worry, I’ll explain what it all means in the paddling directions section below.)

River of Golden Dreams Paddling Directions

Here’s my step-by-step directions for paddling the River of Golden Dreams. I’ve broken it up into several sections: Alta Lake and the Start, the Middle, Finishing, and Extending Your Trip.

Alta Lake and the Start of the River of Golden Dreams

To start the River of Golden Dreams you will launch from either Wayside Park or Lakeside Park on Alta Lake. Both of these parks have boat rentals and guided tours. (The How to Get There section below has more info on these locations.)

From there, you will paddle across Alta Lake for about 2 km which takes 20-30 minutes. If it is windy, this can be a bit challenging. At the north end of the lake, look for the River of Golden Dreams draining out of the lake.

The first part is very narrow and choked with lily pads, but after a few minutes, it becomes a little wider.

The Portage

After going around a few bends and going under a bridge, arrive at the Alta Lake fish weir, which has a dock. It’s a wooden stair-like structure that spans the width of the river. It should take about 15 minutes to get here from the end of the lake.

Past the weir, the river runs through a narrow ditch-like channel that is usually dry from mid-July until fall.

You need to get out of the river and start the portage here. Follow the path up the bank to the right. If you are renting a boat or are on a tour, there will be carts here you can use to wheel your canoe. Turn left and follow the paved valley trail for a few minutes (about 350m) to a bridge over the River of Golden Dreams.

If you are an experienced canoer and the water level is not too low or too high, you can put your boat back in the water here. This is one of the most beautiful sections of the river, with large old growth trees.

But this section can be dangerous at high water since the train bridge at the end is very low and you can get stuck underneath. As well, some of the fastest moving water is in this section, so this is where most paddlers capsize. And finally, if the water is too low, you won’t be able to paddle this section and instead will have to drag your boat through the gravel, which disturbs fish habitat.

I recommend just doing the portage instead. It’s only a few minutes further to walk and isn’t much hassle (you just miss one curve of the river).

To continue the portage, cross the bridge and then go through the yellow gates to follow the paved path across the train tracks. Go through the second set of yellow gates and look for the gravel path branching right. It is marked with a small portage sign. Turn right onto the gravel path and stay on it until it reaches the river again next to a train bridge.

Congratulations! You’ve finished the portage. The entire portage is about 600 m long and will take you 10-15 minutes.

Paddling the Middle Section

After you get back in your boat after the portage, you’ll be in the middle section of the River of Golden Dreams. This is the best part of the trip. The river goes through about 30 curves as it snakes its way through the marshes of the valley.

In most places, the bushes on the sides of the river are high. The river is not far from homes, roads, and a golf course, but it will feel like you are in the middle of the wilderness since all you can see are birds, bushes, and trees. You can also see the mountains on all sides.

There are lots of types of plants, but the main ones are huckleberry bushes. In early summer they have pretty flowers, but later in the year, they have berries, a favourite food for bears. Be sure to keep an eye out for bears as you paddle. We got quite close to one before we even noticed it was there! But the bear was so focused on eating, that it didn’t care about us. Read my bear safety tips for more info.

Your trip will really depend on the river conditions. Sometimes when the water is low, there are lots of gravel bars to navigate. You might also encounter fallen trees or branches growing into the channel that you will have to paddle around.

Beaver dams can also impact your trip. If the water is low and the beavers have been busy, there will be lots of dams. Some dams have breaks in them so you can paddle through. But others will be high enough that you can’t paddle over them. Instead, you’ll need to get out of your canoe and lift it over. Be careful as the water can be really deep next to the dam!

Ask your tour guide or the rental shop about river conditions before your trip so you know what to expect. If you are paddling your own boat, it’s worth asking about conditions at the rental shop before you go. They are usually happy to help.

Finishing the River of Golden Dreams

As you get towards the end of your trip, you’ll see a park with a walking path on your left. This is Meadow Park. A few minutes later you will paddle underneath a footbridge. The Meadow Park dock is immediately after the bridge on your left.

Pull over at the dock and follow the path up the bank to the parking lot at the Meadow Park Sports Centre. If you are on a tour or rented a boat, this is where you catch the shuttle back to the start.

Extending Your Trip

If you want to paddle a little bit further, you can continue past the dock and follow the river under the highway bridge and then another footbridge. The river makes a few more sinuous curves before emptying into Green Lake.

Green Lake is the biggest lake in Whistler so it can get windy. It’s best to stay near shore. You can explore Green Lake, which has gorgeous views. If you’re really ambitious, paddle down to the northeast end to check out Parkhurst Ghost Town.

When you are done, head out of Green Lake by paddling back upstream along the River of Golden Dreams to the Meadow Park dock. Keep in mind that you will be paddling against the current, which will be much more challenging than the paddling you did going downstream!

How to Get to the River of Golden Dreams

The River of Golden Dreams starts at Alta Lake. If you have booked a guided trip or a self-guided trip including boat rental, Backroads Whistler tours start at Lakeside Park and Whistler Eco-Tours start at Wayside Park. You can arrange a shuttle to Alta Lake if book a tour.

If you have your own boat, you can also launch at Rainbow Park. I’ve got directions for all three below.

It’s worth keeping in mind that parking is very limited at any of the parks on Alta Lake. It can be impossible to get a parking spot on a summer weekend unless you arrive very early in the morning. You may want to consider walking or biking to the start. You can also take a taxi or the bus.

Wayside Park

Wayside is a small park near the south end of Alta Lake. It has a little bit of grass but not much beach. If you launch here, you will paddle almost the entire length of Alta Lake before starting the river section.

The Whistler Eco-Tours boat rental hut and dock are down the hill from the parking lot. There is a sloped path you can use. If you brought your own boat, you can launch from the dock.

To drive here, head south from Whistler Village on Highway 99. After you go under the pedestrian overpass at the intersection with Nordic Drive, start watching for the small blue sign for Wayside Park. Turn right into the parking lot. It’s easy to miss! It has about 15 parking spots. There is no overflow parking. Click here for Google maps driving directions.

To get to Wayside Park by bus, take Bus 20 or Bus 21 from Village Gate to the stop on Nordice Drive. Then, use the pedestrian overpass to cross the highway and turn left onto the Valley Trail. Walk 5 minutes along the trail to the park. Click here for Google Maps bus directions.

You can also walk or bike to Wayside Park via the Valley Trail. It takes about 20 minutes to bike or 1 hour to walk the 4 km distance. Click here for Google Maps walking and biking directions. Whistler Eco-Tours offers a pedal and paddle combo tour that includes a guided bike ride from the Village to Wayside Park.

Lakeside Park

Lakeside Park occupies a large, flat grassy area on the east side of Alta Lake. If you start your trip here, you will paddle about 2/3 of Alta Lake before reaching the river.

Backroads Whistler starts their tours out of a kiosk in the centre of the park. If you brought your own boat, you can launch from the beach or the dock.

To drive here, head south from Whistler Village on Highway 99. Go straight through the traffic light at Blueberry Drive, then turn right onto Hillcrest Drive at the sign for the Alta Vista neighbourhood. Reach a Y-junction right away. Turn right onto Alpine Crescent to access the parking lot.

There is a little bit of overflow parking along Hillcrest Drive. Pay attention to signs to make sure you park legally. Click here for Google Maps driving directions.

You can also get here by bus. Take bus 10, 20, or 21 from Village Gate to the stop on the Sea to Sky Highway just before Hillcrest Drive. Then walk 5 minutes along Hillcrest into the park. Click here for Google Maps bus directions.

It’s easy to get to Lakeside Park by bike or on foot. It takes 10 minutes to bike or 40 minutes to walk the 3 km distance. Click here for Google Maps walking and biking directions.

Rainbow Park

Rainbow Park is the largest of the three parks on Alta Lake. It is close to the end of the lake, so you will be paddling in the river almost immediately. There are no tour or rental operators here so you will need to bring your own boat if you plan to launch from Rainbow Park.

To drive to Rainbow Park, head north on Highway 99. A few minutes later, turn left at the traffic light onto Alpine Way. A block later, turn left onto Rainbow Drive. Stay on this road (which becomes Alta Lake Road) for about 4 km, then watch for the entrance to the park and parking area on your left. There may also be some overflow parking on the gravel shoulder. Pay attention to signs to make sure you park legally. Click here for Google Maps driving directions.

How to Get Between the Start and Finish of the River of Golden Dreams

With a Tour or Rental

If you book a boat rental or guided tour for the River of Golden Dreams, the tour company will pick you up a the end of the River Golden Dreams at Meadow Park Sports Centre and give you a ride back to your starting point. They may also drop you off in the village if you request it.

I recently did the Whistler Eco-Tours pedal and paddle combo tour. We met in Whistler Village and rode rental bikes to Wayside Park. Next, we paddled the River of Golden Dreams. At the end of the paddle, the shuttle drive picked up our boats and delivered our bikes so we could bike back to the village. So far this is my favourite way to do the River of Golden Dreams since you get to experience biking in the forest too.

With Your Own Boat

If you have your own boat, you will need to figure out how to get between the two points on your own. There are four main options: bring two cars, use a bike, take a taxi, or take the bus.

In general, it makes the most sense to unload your boat from your car at Wayside, Lakeside, or Rainbow Parks and have someone wait with the boat.

The driver can take the car to the end of the River of Golden Dreams at the Meadow Park Sports Centre and park. That way when you finish, you can load your canoe onto your car right away. The parking lot is large and has lots of room. The lot has a 3-hour max time limit, which should be enough time to finish the paddle. Click here for driving directions to Meadow Park Sports Centre.

To get back to your boat at the start, the driver can take a taxi, bike, or bus. Calling a taxi is the easiest – it’s a 10-minute drive.

Biking via the Valley Trail takes about 20 minutes and is fairly flat. That’s the option we chose – we locked up the bike while we paddled, then picked it up after we were done.

The bus is also possible if you time it right. Bus 10 is the most direct but you can also take bus 31 to the Village then switch to bus 20 or 21 to go to Lakeside or Wayside Park or the free summer shuttle to Rainbow Park. But bussing takes at least 30 minutes, plus time spent waiting.

What to Bring on the River of Golden Dreams

If you rent a boat or go on a tour, they will supply essential safety gear including a PFD (life jacket), paddle, and bailer. They will also give you access to a cart to make portaging your boat easier. Here’s everything else you should bring on the River of Golden Dreams:

• Water shoes or sandals: Your feet will get when you are getting in and out of the boat. You may also have to portage your canoe, which means lifting it in and out of the water. Or you might need to pull or push your canoe through low-water sections. Bring water shoes or secure sandals. Neoprene paddling booties or Teva-style sandals are best. Flip-flops are a disaster since they fall off. Crocs can also be ok as long as you wear the heel strap. In a pinch, a pair of old running shoes will also work.
• Quick-drying clothing: You might get a little wet, so wear quick-drying clothing. If you wear pants, make sure you can roll them up to your knees.
• Light jacket: The weather can change quickly and you’ll be out for a few hours. Pack a fleece or a light rain jacket in case it gets cold or starts to rain.
• Sunscreen: It’s bright out there and the sun reflects off the water. Slather on sunscreen before you go and bring the tube along to reapply halfway through.
• Hat: Shade your face from the sun!
• Sunglasses: The glare off the water can be harsh. Bring polarizing sunglasses. Goodr makes my favourite budget-priced (yet durable) polarized sunnies. I also use a Neoprene strap to keep my sunglasses secure when paddling. You don’t want to drop them into the water!
• Water: You’ll be exercising in the sun and you need to stay hydrated. Pack at least 1L per person. I like to bring my Hydroflask since it keeps my water cold.
• Snacks: Bring some snacks in case you get hungry. I recommend picking up a treat from Purebread to enjoy along the way.
• Dry bag: Bring a roll-top dry bag to store your snacks, extra clothing, and essentials that you don’t want to get wet. Sea to Summit makes my favourite lightweight dry bags.
• Phone leash: This one is optional, but is a game-changer for me. I use this simple phone leash to tether my phone to my life jacket or shorts. That way it’s easy to grab for photos, I’m not worried about dropping it in the river!
• Canoe cart: If you have your own boat, portaging is much easier with a canoe cart. (We use this canoe cart.) The portage trail is flat and part paved and part gravel, so it’s the ideal scenario for a cart. If you don’t have a cart, it’s also fairly easy to carry your canoe if you are an experienced portager.

Paddling the River of Golden Dreams is one of my favourite things to do in Whistler in the summer. It’s such a fun way to enjoy the valley away from the hustle of the village. If you have questions about the trip, let me know in the comments.

READ NEXT:

• Visiting Whistler, BC in Summer (By a Local)
• 80+ Things to Do in Whistler (By a Local)
• 42 Cheap and Free Things to Do in Whistler
• The Best Hikes in Whistler
• Camping in Whistler, BC
• Sea to Sky Highway Road Trip Guide: Driving from Vancouver to Whistler

The post How to Paddle the River of Golden Dreams in Whistler, BC appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

In this post, Dawn Outdoors Contributor Shannon will guide you through the best outdoor adventures around Vegas. It includes thrilling hiking trails, serene water bodies, and adrenaline-fueled desert adventures. She is a Vegas local, so she knows all the best spots. Get ready to uncover a wilder side of Sin City!

This list of incredible outdoor adventures around Las Vegas includes:

• A Las Vegas outdoor activities map that shows the location of all the places mentioned in this post.
• Hiking and nature trails: hike at Red Rock Canyon, Valley of Fire, and Mount Charleston
• Water activities: paddle a kayak or SUP at Lake Mead, the Colorado River, and Lake Las Vegas
• Camping: Where to camp at Lake Mead, Valley of Fire, and Mount Charleston
• Extreme Adventures including mountain biking, ATVing, and horseback riding

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Las Vegas Outdoor Activities Map

If you’re staying in Las Vegas, you’re probably wondering how far out of town you will need to go to get to outdoor adventures spots. We made a custom Las Vegas Outdoor Activities Google Map just for you that shows you all the places Shannon recommends in this post.

For some of these activities you can arrange transportation with a tour company, but for others, you’ll need to drive yourself. I like to use Discover Cars to book rental cars since it lets me compare prices across tons of companies.

Hiking and Nature Trails Near Las Vegas

Hiking at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area offers a breathtaking landscape for avid hikers. This area, located just 30 minutes from Las Vegas, hosts some of the best hiking trails near the city. 

Once you enter the park, you’ll find a one-way 13-mile scenic drive that leads you to many of the trailheads for hiking and exploring. The trails range in difficulty so it’s easy to pick one suited to your fitness level or desired challenge.

For first-time visitors, swing by the Visitor Center. The friendly staff provide information about various recreation opportunities tailored specifically for outdoor enthusiasts like you! 

Here’s a quick rundown of some of the more popular trails:

• Moenkopi Loop is a popular pick. It offers varied terrain and stunning desert vistas on an easy trail.
• Calico Hills Trail gives hikers up-close views of brightly colored sandstone formations and hidden slot canyons.
• The Calico Tanks Trail includes a hidden water tank at the finish line – a true oasis in the desert. Explore further along this strenuous trail for amazing views of the Las Vegas Strip.
• Hiking to Turtlehead Peak gets your heart pumping while rewarding you with panoramic views of Las Vegas.
• Keystone Thrust Trail brings geology to life as it passes through an exposed fault line.
• The White Rock Mountain Loop is a strenuous trail that stands out with its different scenery, cooler temperatures, and tranquil picnic spots under pine trees.

Or go with an experienced guide to learn about the ecology and culture of the unique red rocks. This guided hiking tour offers you a choice between three different trails to suit your ability.

Exploring Valley of Fire State Park

Valley of Fire State Park provides a magnificent break from the city lights of Las Vegas. It stretches over a large area located in the Mojave Desert. The red and pink rock formations will catch your eye from miles away.

As you hike through the park, you’re likely to encounter 2000-year-old petroglyphs etched into massive red sandstone walls.

There numerous hikes and scenic drives here, but if you wish to indulge in more than just a day trip, there are lots of camping opportunities too.

Some of the popular attractions include:

• Atlatl Rock Trail: Wander along this short trail through the unique landscape and get a close-up view of ancient petroglyphs.
• Fire Wave Trail: A must-visit trail which is popular among hikers and photographers for its multicolored sandstone waves. (Note: This trail is closed between June and October each year due to extreme heat.)
• Rainbow Vista: A short yet rewarding hike with mesmerizing panoramic vistas of multi-colored sandstone.
• Pinnacles Loop: Dive deep into the heart of the park to witness breathtaking geological formations.
• White Domes: Engage in a moderate-level hiking experience with scenic views of canyon walls.

If you want the insider scoop on the best things to see, book a guided hiking tour. This Valley of Fire guided hike can be customized to your ablities and preferences.

Hiking at Mount Charleston

Mount Charleston, just outside Las Vegas, boasts an extensive network of over 60 well-maintained hiking trails. Starting from elevations above 6000 ft, these trails feature waterfalls, panoramic mountain views and the chance to see local wildlife along the trail.

Each hike provides unique encounters with Mount Charleston’s natural beauty while catering to different skill levels, ensuring that everyone can hike near Las Vegas.

Here is a quick guide to some of the hiking trails at Mt. Charleston:

• The Cathedral Rock Trail takes hikers on a scenic but challenging journey to the mountain’s summit with panoramic views of the countryside. 
• Mary Jane Falls is a fan-favorite amongst locals and tourists alike due to its beautiful waterfall view at the end of the trail. 
• Fletcher Canyon Trail presents beginners with a comfortable start into their hiking adventures around Mt Charleston. This trail is relatively easy and leads through picturesque scenery.
• The South Loop Trail is one of the more challenging hikes on Mount Charleston with its 8.5-mile climb. Even seasoned outdoors enthusiasts may find this half-above-10,000-feet hike demanding but rewarding with its stunning vistas.

Water Activities Near Las Vegas

Lake Mead National Recreation Area

Lake Mead National Recreation Area is a must-visit destination for outdoor enthusiasts in Las Vegas. Spanning 1.5 million acres and located in the Mojave Desert, the area offers a wide range of year-round activities.

Whether you enjoy boating, fishing, kayaking, or scuba diving, Lake Mead has it all. With its enormous size and beautiful surroundings, this recreation area is perfect for those looking to make the most of their outdoor adventure in Las Vegas.

This Lake Mead kayaking tour lets you explore the Boulder Islands and includes hotel pickup in Las Vegas.

Colorado River Rafting and Kayaking

The Colorado River near Las Vegas offers thrilling opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts. Here you can enjoy the stunning views of the Hoover Dam as you paddle down the Colorado River. This guided rafting tour takes you right to the base of the Hoover Dam.

You can also experience the adrenaline rush of whitewater rafting on the Colorado River. Book a day-long white water rafting tour in the Grand Canyon with pick-up from the Vegas Strip.

Here are a couple of other outdoor activities on the Colorado River.

Black Canyon National Water Trail

The Black Canyon National Water Trail, located just 45 minutes from Las Vegas, is a must-visit for outdoor enthusiasts. Stretching for 12 miles along the Colorado River, this trail offers paddlers an incredible opportunity to immerse themselves in solitude.

The route stars at the Hoover Dam. Along the way, you’ll encounter breathtaking scenery with sandy beaches, colorful caves, and even secluded hot springs. And if you’re up for more than just kayaking, there are plenty of opportunities for hiking and camping along the trail as well.

Emerald Cave

The Emerald Cave is a stunning natural wonder located on the Black Canyon Water Trail of the Colorado River. The only way to access the cave is by boat, whether it’s kayaking, canoeing, using a stand-up paddleboard (SUP), or your own motorized boat.

It is situated about 2 miles North of Willow Beach. If you don’t have your own kayak or boat, kayak tours to the Emerald Cave are highly recommended.

This beginner-friendly Emerald Cave kayak tour launches from Willow Beach includes transportation to and from the Strip.

Kayaking and Paddleboarding at Lake Las Vegas

Lake Las Vegas offers a range of exciting water activities, including kayaking and paddleboarding. You can rent kayaks or paddle boards from Lake Las Vegas Water Sports and spend a fun-filled day exploring the beautiful lake.

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced paddler, this is the perfect place to enjoy these popular water sports. 

Camping Near Las Vegas

Boulder Beach Campground

Boulder Beach Campground is a fantastic camping spot near Las Vegas, located in the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. With its convenient location and stunning views of Lake Mead, this campground offers 154 spacious campsites that are perfect for both tents and large RVs.

You’ll be surrounded by picturesque desert vistas, creating a truly unforgettable outdoor experience. In addition to camping, visitors can also enjoy activities like boating, hiking, and kayaking right from the campground.

Camping at Valley of Fire State Park

Valley of Fire State Park is a great destination for camping near Las Vegas. With two campgrounds and 72 campsites, there are plenty of options to choose from. If you prefer RV camping, you’ll find sites with power and water hookups available at the park.

For those who enjoy tent camping, Arch Rock Campground is a popular choice. You can even go backcountry camping on approved roads within the park.

If you’re looking for information on when to go or how to book the best campsites, the Valley of Fire State Park website has everything you need for a memorable outdoor experience.

Mount Charleston Camping

Mount Charleston is an excellent choice for those looking to escape the Las Vegas summer heat. Located in the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area, Mount Charleston has four campgrounds, seven picnic areas, and remote areas for dispersed camping. 

With its stunning mountain landscapes, well-maintained trails, and temps that are 20 degrees cooler than the Las Vegas Valley, it’s a paradise for hikers and nature lovers.

The campgrounds provide various amenities, including picnic tables, fire pits, and clean restroom facilities. You can explore the surrounding area by exploring the many hiking trails or simply relax in the peaceful alpine atmosphere of this beautiful spot.

Whether you prefer tent camping or RV camping, Mount Charleston has something to offer for everyone looking to escape Las Vegas.

Adventure and Extreme Sports Near Las Vegas

Mountain Biking Near Red Rock Canyon

Looking for an adrenaline-pumping outdoor adventure near Las Vegas? Look no further than mountain biking near Red Rock Canyon. With over 20 mountain bike trails of varying difficulty levels, there’s something for everyone. 

From scenic rides through the stunning landscapes of Red Rock Canyon to heart-pounding downhill descents, this area offers a range of experiences. Some popular trails include the Mustang Trail, perfect for beginners, and the Blue Diamond Hill Trail, known for its breathtaking views. 

The easiest way to go mountain biking is with a guide. This half-day tour takes you along the Mustang Trail in Red Rock Canyon.

ATV Tours in the Desert

ATV tours in the desert surrounding Las Vegas are a thrilling option for adventure seekers. These tours provide an exciting outdoor experience, allowing you to explore the beautiful southwest desert on an ATV.

You can choose from different options, such as riding a 450cc or 700cc ATV, with certified guides available to help you select the appropriate vehicle based on your experience and size.

Most tours include complimentary pick-up and drop-off services from your hotel. The tours also include lunch, refreshments, and safety gear to ensure a comfortable and secure adventure.

Popular destinations for off-road ATV tours include Eldorado Canyon and the Techatticup Gold Mine, offering an opportunity to combine adrenaline-pumping rides with historical exploration.

Here’s a few tours we recommend:

• This small-group ATV tour takes you through sand dunes. It has a 5-star rating!
• If you want an exclusive experience, this ATV tour lets you ride on a private trail in the Mojave Desert.
• To ride with your friends, book this side-by-side UTV tour. The four-passenger UTVs include full face helmets with intercoms so you can chat as you ride.

Horseback riding

Horseback riding is another fun outdoor adventure that you can enjoy during your trip to Las Vegas. It offers a unique way to explore the scenic desert landscapes surrounding the city. Whether you’re an experienced rider or a beginner, horseback riding in Las Vegas is a great option for outdoor enthusiasts of all ages.

One of the most popular tours is a sunset horseback ride with a barbecue after. You’ll ride through Red Rock Canyon, then watch the sunset while you chow down on BBQ around the campfire.

If you want to start your day on horseback, book the Morning Maverick Ride. It includes a cowboy-style breakfast after your ride.

Las Vegas offers an abundance of outdoor activities that cater to every adventurous spirit. With its central location and easy access to national parks and hot springs, Las Vegas truly is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts.

Thanks to Shannon for sharing this great list of the best outdoor activities near Las Vegas. For more Vegas insider knowledge, check out ThreeDaysinVegas.com where Shannon is a regular contributor.

READ NEXT:

• Take an Epic Outdoors Arizona Road Trip
• Hike the Bright Angel Trail in the Grand Canyon
• 15 Best Easy Hikes in Moab
• 10 Best Things to Do in Death Valley National Park
• 18 Awesome Things to Do in Joshua Tree National Park
• 10 Under-the-Radar US National Parks to Add to Your Bucket List
• Things to Do in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks
• 25 Things to do in Grand Teton National Park
• 70 Things to do in Yellowstone National Park

The post 14 Best Outdoor Activities Near Las Vegas appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Northern Vancouver Island is off the beaten path so it feels a bit wilder: Tiny towns, lush rainforest, great hiking, camping and kayaking, and SO MUCH WILDLIFE. North Vancouver Island is the place to go if you want to see whales, bears, sea lions, porpoises, and more.

I’ve made nine trips to Northern Vancouver Island over the years, and each time I discover another incredible place. (A of the trips were research for my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.) I haven’t seen everything there is to see on the north end of the Island yet, but believe me… I’m trying!

In this guide, I’ll give you all my insider info on the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island as well as where to stay and where to eat.

Hey there: Thanks so much to At the Water’s Edge Adventures, BC Ferries, and Vancouver Island North Tourism for hosting me on a trip in 2020. All the other trips were at my own expense and all opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Northern Vancouver Island Basics

Location

Northern Vancouver Island is located… on the north end of Vancouver Island. 😉  (Thanks Captain Obvious!)

Since most of Vancouver Island’s population is clustered around the southern tip, the definition of which part of Vancouver Island is the northern part can get pretty broad. (Some people think it’s anything north of Nanaimo which isn’t even half way up the island!)

In general, there is no dispute that anything north of the town of Campbell River is considered Northern Vancouver Island. So that’s the region I’m going to focus on in this post. 

How to Get to North Vancouver Island

The easiest way to get to Northern Vancouver Island is by car. Highway 19, also known as the Island Highway, runs the length of Vancouver Island from Nanaimo in the south all the way past Campbell River to Port Hardy in the north.

If you’re coming from the mainland, you can take a BC ferry from the Vancouver area to Nanaimo, then drive north from there. The drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy takes about 4 hours.

It’s also possible to fly to north Vancouver Island via charter flights between Vancouver and Port Hardy. You can also take a bus between Campbell River and Port Hardy.

It’s easiest to get around by car. The best place to rent a car is in Nanaimo. But you can also rent cars in Port Hardy. I use Discover Cars since it lets you compare prices from lots of different companies so you can be sure you are getting the best deal.

North Vancouver Island Weather

Northern Vancouver Island has a wet maritime climate. The area gets a LOT of rain between October and March. The driest months are July and August, but May, June, and early September can be nice too.

While it’s not a warm place, it never gets that cold either. In July and August, the average temperature is between 10 and 18C (50-64F). Between November and March, the average temperature is between 1 and 8C (34-46F).

In general, expect rain and chilly weather at any time of year. But you could also luck out. I’ve had several trips with good weather including in 2020 during my hike to Cape Scott and a kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait where we saw temperatures up to 25C (77F)!

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Indigenous Context

Northern Vancouver Island has been home to several indigenous groups since time immemorial and they still live here today.

The Kwakwaka’wakw have traditional territory on the entire northern end of Vancouver Island, extending into the islands of the Johnstone Strait and the adjoining mainland.

On the west coast of Vancouver Island, they share their territory with the Quatsino people.

Further south near Sayward, Kwakwaka’wakw territory overlaps with the We Wai Kai Nation, the K’omoks Nation, and the We Wai Kum Nation.

Consider supporting Indigenous-owned businesses on your trip to northern Vancouver Island. I’ve got several recommendations in this post.

North Vancouver Island Map

I made a custom google map for you that includes everything I mention in this post. Enjoy! This map is all you’ll need if you plan to stick to the paved roads and major towns.

However, if you are venturing off onto any of the gravel roads, I highly recommend you bring a copy of the Vancouver Island BC Backroad Map Book so you don’t get lost. (There’s no cell service outside of the towns.) I also love the offline version of the Gaia GPS app for navigating backroads and hiking trails.

Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island

Northern Vancouver Island is a huge area, with lots of things to do. My list of things to do in North Vancouver Island is set out in geographic order, from south to north, in the order you could visit them if you were driving up the Island Highway from Campbell River towards Port Hardy. 

Visit Sayward and Kelsey Bay

The tiny logging-oriented village of Sayward has been around since the 1890s. Originally only accessed by boat, today it is connected by road to the Island Highway.

Drive the short spur road into town to visit the Cable Cookhouse, a local cafe that is completely wrapped in steel logging cables. Continue through town to the port of Kelsey Bay. The wharf here is a popular place to fish or to just enjoy the view across the Johnstone Strait. 

Learn About Logging Railways in Woss

Woss is another tiny logging town just off the Island Highway. It has the unique distinction of being home to the last operating logging railway in North America.

After a tragic accident in 2017, the railway finally closed after 100 years of operation. Today, you can drive into town to visit historic Steam Locomotive 113. A nearby pavilion has interpretive panels where you can learn about the history of railway logging.

There is currently talk of turning the 90 km-long railway into a biking and hiking trail, which would be amazing as it cuts through some real wilderness. 

Little Huson Caves

Despite being just 20 minutes from highway 19, it took me several visits to north Vancouver Island before I made it to Little Huson Caves. In fact, I didn’t even know they existed until a few years ago. There are tons of caves on Vancouver Island, but this is one of the easiest to visit.

Atluck Creek runs through an area of limestone that is easily eroded. That means that here the creek runs right through a huge cave! Take a short walk down a hill (with some stairs) to two different viewing platforms, one at the creek entrance to the cave, the other at the exit!

READ NEXT: Little Huson Caves Hiking Guide

Stroll the Boardwalk at Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove used to be the northern end of a telegraph line that stretched the length of Vancouver Island. It slowly changed from a telegraph station, into a fishing and cannery village, and today it is an eco-tourism hub. It’s definitely worth the detour off the highway – it’s really cute!

Stroll the wooden boardwalk past historic buildings to the Whale Museum or grab a drink at the cafe and soak up the views. Telegraph Cove is also a popular launching spot for fishing boats, whale watching, and kayaking tours.

Kayak with Whales in the Johnstone Strait

The Johnstone Strait off the coast of northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places in the world to see whales. Humpback whales migrate through all summer long and the area has a high concentration of orcas (killer whales). And one of the best ways to see whales is from a kayak.

I went on a life-changing kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait in 2020. We saw whales every day, visited Indigenous sites, saw tons of sea lions, seals, porpoises, and eagles, and visited some remote (and gorgeous) islands.

The most popular place to launch kayaks is from Telegraph Cove. You can rent kayaks or go on guided tours that last anywhere from an afternoon to a week.

I went with At the Water’s Edge Adventures who launch from a private beach next to Telegraph Cove. They are offering my readers 10% off any trip with them – just use code HAPPIESTOUTDOORS.

READ NEXT: My guide to Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

Visit Port McNeill

Port McNeill is the second largest town on Northern Vancouver Island. It’s a compact little town with shops, restaurants, and hotels. Wander along the seawall downtown for great views of the harbour.

Don’t miss the world’s largest burl at the east end of town. (Fun fact: Port McNeill is also home to another giant burl. It was the world’s largest burl until the current one was discovered in 2005. You can find the runner-up burl about 5 minutes east of town just off Highway 19.)

Take a Grizzly Bear Watching Tour

Taking a boat-based bear watching tour up Knight Inlet was definitely one of the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island. While Northern Vancouver Island has roads and settlements, the nearby mainland has only a few boat-in villages. The huge expanse of wilderness supports a healthy population of grizzly bears.

We watched a mother grizzly bear and her two nearly full-grown cubs explore the coastline in search of mussels and other food. Later, we switched to a smaller boat to cruise up a river estuary and spy on a huge male grizzly eating grass.

I did my tour with Sea Wolf Adventures, based in Port McNeill. They are a local indigenous-run company. Our guides (Sherry and Karissa) were knowledgeable and worked hard to make sure the boat was always in position to take the best photos. The food was great too! 

Go Whale Watching

With humpbacks migrating through every summer and a large resident orca (killer whale) population, northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places to see whales in BC.

Since I have been kayaking with whales and saw quite a few whales on my bear watching tour with Sea Wolf, I haven’t actually been on a whale watching tour on northern Vancouver Island.

But locals recommend Mackay Whale Watching out of Port McNeill. They are a small family-run company and have been running whale watching tours in the area for four decades. 

Ride the Eco-Conscious Island Aurora Ferry

BC Ferries runs the Island Aurora from Port McNeill to the nearby island communities of Alert Bay and Sointula on Malcolm Island. While the towns are definitely worth visiting (and info about them is below), the ferry ride alone is pretty fun.

This brand-new ferry was added to the BC Ferries fleet in 2020. It’s part of a move towards eco-consciousness and uses a hybrid engine. (It runs 20% on battery power, the remainder on diesel.)

Eventually, BC Ferries hopes to introduce a shore-based charging system so that the Island Aurora can run entirely on battery power. The hybrid system is much quieter than conventional engines, which is great for both passengers and the resident whales.

The views of Johnstone Strait from the ferry are spectacular, and with fairly low rates for both walk-on passengers and cars, it’s the cheapest way to get out on the water on northern Vancouver Island!

Pro tip: Take a day trip to both Alert Bay and Sointula on the same day using just one ticket to save money. You will need to take the ferry back to Port McNeill to switch between the two communities – just tell ferry staff you want to visit both.

Experience Indigenous Culture in Alert Bay

Alert Bay is a small community on Cormorant Island, just a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. About half of the island is a ‘Namgis First Nation reserve. The ‘Namgis are part of the larger Kwakwaka’wakw Nation. This is one of the best places to experience Indigenous culture in Canada.

I highly recommend a visit to the U’mista Cultural Centre to learn about their history and culture. This fabulous museum has a huge collection of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw dance masks and memorabilia used in cultural events like potlatches.

In the 1920s, potlaches were declared illegal and the government stole these ceremonial objects and gave them to museums around the world. The Kwakwaka’wakw have worked hard to bring these important cultural treasures back to their traditional territory and display them on their own terms. 

Alert Bay is also home to a forest of totem poles with over 30 poles spread around town. The world’s largest totem pole, at 173 feet tall (53m) also towers over the island.

If you want to go for a walk, the Alert Bay Ecological Park is a great option. Well-marked flat trails and boardwalks lead through an upland marsh fed by underground springs. It’s a great place for birdwatching.

You can also walk around the town and explore the historical buildings.

Visit Sointula and Malcolm Island

The village of Sointula on Malcolm Island has an interesting history. Finnish settlers founded the town in 1901 as a utopian collective society. In Finnish, Sointula means “place of harmony”.

Even though it is just across the water from Port McNeill, it has retained a lot of its unique character. Many older residents still speak Finnish and the cooperatively-run local store, the Sointula Coop, has been open for over 100 years. You can learn more about local history at the tiny Sointula Museum.

Today, the island is home to lots of artists and is a great place for hiking and biking.

If you have time, be sure to make the short drive out to Bere Point. The pebble beach there is a favourite spot for resident orcas to rub their bellies at high tide. A citizen science orca research team sets up tents near the viewpoint each year. Stop in to ask them about the most recent whale sightings.

Drive the Alice Lake Loop

If you are up for some backroads driving, take on the Alice Lake Loop. I haven’t had time for the 2.5-hour trip yet, but it’s high on my list. This mini-road trip visits some of northern Vancouver Island’s unique karst features, formed by centuries of water eroding rock.

Highlights include the Devil’s Bath, a water-filled sinkhole that connects to a river underground, and the Eternal Fountain, a waterfall that appears out of the side of a cliff, then disappears beneath your feet. Take a break in the town of Port Alice part-way along to have lunch and stroll along the ocean-front seawalk.

Visit Port Hardy

Port Hardy is the largest town on north Vancouver Island, its economic centre, and the jumping-off point for ferries to northern BC. It’s a good place to grab a meal, buy groceries, or shop for souvenirs.

Don’t miss the Book Nook and Drift, which share space with Cafe Guido on Market Street. Drift has really cute locally-made clothing and home goods and the Book Nook has a great selection of local books.

For the easiest eagle spotting around, go for a walk along the seawall. The resident eagles are sure to be flying overhead, foraging on the beach at low-tide, or calling out from their nests in the nearby treetops.

Although I haven’t had time to visit, I’ve also heard that the museum at the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre is great for rainy days, especially if you take a tour of the hatchery.

Another thing that’s on my list is visiting the nearby Kwagu’ł Nation community of Tsaxis (Fort Rupert) to visit Calvin Hunt‘s gallery of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw carvings.

Take the Inside Passage Ferry to Northern BC

Port Hardy is the departure point for the Inside Passage ferry to Northern BC. This epic all-day ferry cruises up the coast to Prince Rupert. Along the way, it passes spectacular scenery including picturesque islands, towering mountains, narrow inlets and tons of whales. On my trip we saw the best rainbows.

READ NEXT: Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC

Get Off the Beaten Path on Gravel Roads

If you venture off the paved Island Highway, you’ll be heading further off the beaten path than most tourists who visit north Vancouver Island. The remote communities of Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, Quatsino, and Holberg are small resource-based towns, focused on fishing and forestry with a growing community of summer residents.

But if you are into nature, the surrounding areas are worth investigating too. You’ll find remote beaches, deserted campgrounds, hiking trails, and incredible fishing.

Use the Vancouver Island North Recreation map to get ideas on where to go. You can drive sometimes rough gravel roads to Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, and Holberg, but you’ll need a boat to get to Quatsino.

If you make the drive, bring a map or use the Gaia GPS app since there is no cell service. Pack a spare tire, and be prepared to pull over for speeding logging trucks. Most roads go through the town of Holberg. If it’s open, be sure to stop at the Scarlet Ibis. It’s Vancouver Island’s most remote pub.

Visit Winter Harbour

Winter Harbour is a tiny town that has been around since the 1890s. It began as a fishing village but diversified to become a logging town as well by the 1950s. When the logging operation shut down in 2017, the town’s population dropped to just two year-round residents.

However, in the summer the old loggers shacks fill up with vacationers going salmon fishing or exploring the labrynith of inlets. Be sure to stop at the Outpost General Store, then walk the unique waterfront boardwalk which connects homes and businesses along the inlet and predates the road network.

If you’re up for adventure, drive the backroads to hike to Grant Bay. The short trail leads to what I think is one of the most beautiful remote sandy beaches on Northern Vancouver Island. To get there, take West Main from Winter Harbour Road, then follow it to its end.

Hike, Canoe, Camp, and Surf at Raft Cove Provincial Park

Remote Raft Cove Provincial Park is located on the wild west coast of Northern Vancouver Island. There are two ways to get there, but both start with a long drive on logging roads.

You can canoe 5 km down the Macjack River to its mouth from a put-in off Topknot Main FSR accessed from Winter Harbour. Or you can make a tough and muddy 3 km hike to the beach from a trailhead on Ronning Main FSR access from Holberg.

Once you arrive, the sand stretches for a kilometres and waves pound in from the Pacific Ocean. It’s a popular spot for surfers. There is a great backcountry campground on the peninsula at the mouth of the Macjack River.

Get more info on visiting Raft Cove in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Visit Ronnings Garden

Ronning’s Garden is one of the most unique places to visit on Northern Vancouver Island. Norwegian settler Bernt Ronning built a homestead on the wagon road between Holberg and Cape Scott around 1910. He cleared the bush to create an impressive garden that spanned nearly 5 acres.

He died in 1963 and the rainforest started to reclaim the garden. But in the last few decades new owners have worked on restoring the garden. Today you can walk into the garden to see huge monkey puzzle trees and many other interesting plants from around the world.

Find Ronnings Garden just off San Josef Main on the way to Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Hike and Camp at Cape Scott Provincial Park

Cape Scott Provincial Park sits at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. It’s a wild and beautiful place of white sand beaches, dense rainforest, incredible wildlife, and settler history.

The only way to explore the park is by day hiking or backpacking in to one of the remote backcountry campgrounds. The park has three main trails: the easy and flat day-hike to San Josef Bay, the moderate 3-day backpacking trip to Cape Scott Lighthouse, and the challenging 6-day North Coast Trail. Cape Scott is one of my favourite places and I’ve hiked into the park six times.

Get more info on visiting Cape Scott Provincial Park in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Get My Book…

Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
• Advice for extending your trip
• Points of cultural and natural history

Get the book

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide

READ NEXT: North Coast Trail Guide

Where to Eat on North Vancouver Island

Since many of the communities on northern Vancouver Island are small, you may have to do a bit of advance planning when it comes to where to eat. Most of the towns have at least one restaurant, pub, cafe, or general store but a few do not.

There are also a few restaurants that are worth planning for. Here are my picks for the best restaurants on north Vancouver Island.

Cafe Guido

This adorable hipster coffee shop in Port Hardy wouldn’t be out of place in a big city. Cafe Guido has sandwiches, baked goods, and of course coffee. They share space with the Book Nook and Drift, so allow time for browsing.

Duchess’ Bannock and Desserts

If you’re in Alert Bay, don’t miss trying Duchess’ Bannock. If you’ve never had bannock before, it’s a traditional indigenous fried bread. Duchess’ bannock was some of the best I have ever tasted.

If you have a sweet tooth, order the bannock and berries instead of just the plain bannock. It comes covered in three kinds of berries, berry sauce, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and sprinkles. Sooo good. (Just make sure you share it with someone – it’s huge!)

ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ Pub

The ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ pub at the newly refurbished Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy serve local, Indigenous-inspired west coast cuisine. (Fun fact: in Kwakwaka’wakw, ha’me‘ means food and nax’id’ means drink.)

We’ve eaten there a few times. My husband was really impressed with their salmon burger… which was served on bannock. 

Where to Stay on North Vancouver Island

With campgrounds, B&Bs, and lodges scattered across northern Vancouver Island, it’s easy to find a place to stay. Here are a few of my favourites:

Bere Point Campground, Malcolm Island

I haven’t actually camped here, but it’s high on my list after visiting for the day in 2020. Located next to the famous whale rubbing beach on Malcolm Island, it has incredible campsites, many of which are right on the ocean. On my visit, campers were trading stories of their many whale sightings! Book in advance as it is popular.

Telegraph Cove Resort, Telegraph Cove

We stayed in the Telegraph Cove Lodge building at the Telegraph Cove Resort before our Johnstone Strait kayaking trip. It has great views of the cove. You can also stay in their collection of historic homes right on the boardwalk – they are super cute! Check prices.

Kwa’lilas Hotel, Port Hardy

I spent three nights at the Indigenous-run Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy on my 2020 visit to northern Vancouver Island. It’s completely renovated with gorgeous First Nations art in every room. Definitely one of the more upscale places to stay on northern Vancouver Island (without being expensive or pretentious). Check prices.

The Quarterdeck Inn, Port Hardy

We stayed at harbour-front Quarterdeck Inn in Port Hardy in 2021. It has comfortable rooms and is right on the water. It’s the best place to stay if you are hiking the North Coast Trail since it is right next to the water taxi dock. (We stayed here the night before our 2021 NCT hike.) Check prices.

Nimpkish Hotel, Alert Bay

This boutique hotel stands out along the waterfront in Alert Bay. The Nimpkish Hotel is a bright blue historic building with a big deck and lots of windows for great views of the Alert Bay Harbour. With only nine rooms and breakfast included, you’ll feel like you’re staying at a B&B, not a hotel. Check prices.

Humpback Inn, Port McNeill

The Humpback Inn in Port McNeill is a newly refurbished motel with a cute retro vibe. It’s right by the water and an easy walk to everything including whale and bear watching tours. Friends stayed her and loved it. Check prices.

Cape Scott Provincial Park

If you want to get away from it all, you can’t beat a hike-in campsite at Cape Scott Provincial Park. The sea stacks at San Josef Bay are great if you want a short hike, but for the real experience, make the full-day trek out to Nel’s Bight for the full white sand beach experience. The best part: no reservations required! (Read my guide to Cape Scott to plan your trip.)

Now you have all the info you need to head to northern Vancouver Island. What is your favourite thing to do on north Vancouver Island? Tell me in the comments. And as always, send me your questions as I’m happy to help answer them.

More Things to do on Vancouver Island

• Little Huson Caves on Vancouver Island
• Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know
• The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island

Hiking Guides for Vancouver Island

• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide

The post Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Before this trip, I thought I knew what the west coast was all about. But seeing it from the water brought on a completely different perspective. I spent five days camping on tiny islands. Whales surfaced and exhale meters away from me. I paddled through narrow passages with water so clear, looking down to the bottom was like looking into an aquarium, complete with starfish, sea anemones, and fish. Getting out of the boat, I explored indigenous village sites, dating back innumerable years. I ate amazing fresh food that I didn’t have to cook. Between my phone, SLR, Go Pro, and my husband’s drone I took thousands of videos and photos, hoping desperately to capture the magic of this amazing place. 

I went into this experience as a beginner (and honestly nervous) kayaker, but I left feeling as if I’d visited a truly special area. In this post, I’ll give you even more reasons to plan a kayaking trip to the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago. And I’ll also give you all the info you need to make it happen. (I’ve also got a sweet discount code for you if you want to book your own trip. Scroll down for that.)

Hey there: Thanks so much to At the Water’s Edge Adventures, BC Ferries, and Vancouver Island North Tourism for hosting me on this trip. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Where is the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago?

The Johnstone Strait is a narrow body of water separating the northern part of Vancouver Island from mainland British Columbia. Sandwiched between the strait and the mainland are hundreds of islands. Some are tiny (really just a rock with a few trees), while others are huge. You’ll find the Broughton Archipelago at the east end of the area near the mouth of Knight Inlet and the entrance to Queen Charlotte Strait. Protected as a Provincial Marine Park, this group of islands and islets is very popular with kayakers.

Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago Kayaking Map

I made a custom Google map of the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago area for you. It has all the places I will talk about in this post.

How to Get to the Johnstone Strait

Most kayaking trips to the Johnstone Strait and Broughton archipelago start from Telegraph Cove on northern Vancouver Island since it is the closest kayak launch site. Telegraph Cove is a small resort community just south of the town of Port McNeill. To get there from the mainland, start by taking BC Ferries to Nanaimo. Next, drive the Island Highway north for 350km. The drive takes about 4 hours. (Plan to spend a few extra days in the area: there are so many other amazing things to do on North Vancouver Island.)

Where to Stay Before Your Johnstone Strait Kayak Trip

Since you will most likely be starting your kayak trips in the Johnstone Strait in the morning, it makes the most sense to stay in the area the night before your trip. We stayed at the Telegraph Cove Lodge. It’s a brand new building on the slope above Telegraph Cove. They also have historic cottages to rent right on the water, as well as a campground. You can also stay a little bit further away in Port McNeill. On a previous trip, we spent a few nights at the Black Bear Resort. I’ve also heard the Humpback Inn is nice.

When to go Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

There are two factors to consider when picking dates for your kayaking trip to the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago: weather and wildlife. With a wet marine climate, the area gets a LOT of rain in the winter. The driest months are July and August, but May, June, and September can also be nice. If you want to see orcas, plan a trip between the end of July and early September. Humpback whales migrate through the area from May until October so you will likely see them all summer long.

How Many Days to Spend Kayaking in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait

The amount of time you spend kayaking in the Johnstone Strait area is totally personal preference. However, plan to spend at least three days. That will be enough time to explore a few different areas and hopefully, you’ll be in the area long enough to see some whales.

My guides from At the Water’s Edge Adventures said their 5-day tours are really popular, and that’s how long my trip was. It was the perfect amount of time to experience a little bit of everything in the region.

If you want to paddle the more remote (and reportedly gorgeous) northern Broughton islands, give yourself more time as they are remote so it will take longer to get there and back again. Many tour companies offer 7-day trips that penetrate deeper into the archipelago. I’m already dreaming of coming back and doing a 7-day trip further into the Broughtons.

From talking to paddler friends of mine and to other groups we met on our trip, 10+ day expeditions in the area are common. Many groups don’t plan an itinerary. Instead, they wait to see what the weather has in store for them or follow the whales as they migrate through the strait.

How Difficult is Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait?

Kayaking does require physical strength and stamina. But if you’re in OK shape kayaking in the Johnstone Strait can definitely be beginner-friendly since it’s really low-impact. On my trip, we typically spent a few hours on the water in the morning, had a break for lunch for an hour or so, then paddled another couple of hours in the afternoon. I felt like I was getting a bit of a workout, but I was never exhausted. 

However, it’s worth noting that beginners should definitely go with a guide. The weather, tides, and currents can make things dangerous if you aren’t careful. We were really happy to have guides on our trip as they made sure we always paddled in the calmest conditions. (Scroll down for more of my thoughts on my you should hire a guide.)

How Much Does a Kayaking Trip in the Johnstone Strait Cost?

How much your Johnstone Strait kayaking trip will cost depends on how many days you go for and whether you go on a guided tour or go self-guided. There are no fees for camping or kayaking in the Broughton Archipelago or Johnstone Strait so your only costs will be food, gear rentals, and guides.

Renting Gear

Kayak outfitters in Telegraph Cove like At the Water’s Edge Adventures rent sea kayaks starting at $90/day for a single kayak and $150/day for a double and include a PFD (life jacket), spray skirt and other safety gear. Prices get cheaper the more days you book. You can also rent gear like waterproof paddling pants and jackets and drybags. It’s also possible to rent camping gear such as tents, sleeping bags, and stoves as well as emergency gear like a VHF marine radio or satellite messenger.

Guided Tours

Unless you are heading to the Johnstone Strait with experienced friends who know the area well, I think guides are well worth your money. Real talk: guided kayak tours aren’t cheap! Tours start at about $900/person for a three-day tour. You can also work with the guides to customize your tour. But I think having a guide is absolutely worth the money. (Read more about the choice to go guided or not below.)

Should You Go on a Guided Kayaking Trip in the Johnstone Strait?

If you are an experienced paddler, comfortable with self-rescue, navigation, and understanding currents and tides, you can definitely kayak in the Johnstone Strait without a guide. It’s easy to rent gear from local outfitters and plan your own trip. 

However… I think going with a guided tour is the way to do. Yes, it costs more. But I think it’s totally worth it.

On a guided tour you’ll be in a small group of 4-12 clients with 1 or 2 guides. The guides will do all the hard work for you including meal planning and cooking, providing all the camping gear, and outfitting you with paddling pants, jacket, and dry bags.

As an experienced backcountry camper, I found the food and gear to be a nice bonus and definitely a time saver. (And the food was incredible! We had fresh fruit and vegetables every day and appetizers every night before dinner. Dinners were things like tacos, pad thai, curry, and pasta. For lunch, we had sandwiches, bagels, and salads. Definitely, the best food I’ve ever eaten in the backcountry.)

But.. the real benefit of the guides for me was their local expertise and kayaking experience. Of course, this means a safer trip. But I also found that it made for a way more enjoyable trip. Our guides were able to consult the weather, tides, and currents each day to plan our route to avoid rough water and strenuous paddling. When the weather forecast changed and heavy fog became a factor, they altered our itinerary to avoid it, while maximizing whale sightings at the same time.

They knew from experience where the best campsites were, where to find indigenous village sites, clam gardens, and middens, and which narrow passageways between islands were the prettiest to paddle. Our guides also knew where to find the nicest campsites, the best lunch spots, and the best coves to pull over and get out of the kayaks for an emergency pee break. They also had one ear to their VHF radio all the time to listen for chatter about where to see orcas and humpback whales.

I really appreciated paddling with Josh and Alicia from At the Water’s Edge Adventures. To be honest, I was nervous about kayaking across big sections of open ocean and hitting rough weather. Josh and Alicia understood that and were so patient with me. They detailed our route plan every day to show us how we would avoid fast currents and high winds. And on the days we crossed the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound, one of them would stick close by my boat to make sure I felt comfortable, chatting with me the whole way to distract me from the waves.

I definitely recommend a kayaking trip with At the Water’s Edge Adventures. If you want to save some $$ on a Johnstone Strait kayak trip, I can help: Use code “HAPPIESTOUTDOORS” when you book with At the Water’s Edge Adventures to get 10% off.

How to Kayak with Whales in the Johnstone Strait

Although there is no guarantee that you will see whales while kayaking in the Johnstone Strait… it’s pretty likely. It’s one of the best places in the world to kayak with orcas! The three keys to seeing whales are timing, location, and a radio.

Best Time to See Whales in the Johnstone Strait

You can see humpback whales all summer, but the best time to see orcas in the Johnstone Strait is between the end of July and early September. At that time of year, the salmon are returning to rivers to spawn and the orcas come into the area to feed on them.

Where to See Whales in the Johnstone Strait 

To increase your chances of kayaking with whales, plan to spend time paddling in the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound. The whales like the deeper waters there. You are much less likely to see whales in the Broughton Archipelago or in any of the other small island groups. Robson Bight Ecological Reserve at the east end of Johnstone Strait provides important protection for orca habitat and is a popular spot for whale-watching boats. The orcas like to rub their bellies on the smooth river stones on the beaches in the reserve.  (They also do this on Malcolm Island near Port McNeill.) On my kayaking trip, we camped at Kaikash Creek, a few kilometres west of Robson Bight, and were treated to orcas swimming just off our beach – likely on their way to the ecological reserve and its rubbing beaches.

Listen to the Marine Radio to Know to Where to Find Whales

The last factor that will help you see whales is a marine VHF radio. Local boaters and whale watching companies keep up a constant chatter on the radio to report whale sightings. On our trip, our guides always had one ear to the radio and altered our planned route a few times to make sure we could see both orcas and humpbacks. Kayaking with killer whales is definitely something I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

What Species of Whales Live in the Johnstone Strait

There are two populations of orcas (also known as killer whales) in the Johnstone Strait area: the northern residents and the transients. There are about 300 northern residents, who live in small family groups called pods. The northern residents range up and down the coast, but are most commonly found in the Johnstone Strait and in nearby Blackfish Sound. We saw a few different groups of northern residents on our trip. 

Transient orcas look similar to residents but are genetically distinct. Unlike the salmon-eating residents, transient orcas are true killers, feasting on seals, sea lions, and dolphins. The transients don’t form pods and have a much less predictable migration pattern, so they are harder to spot. On my trip, we were lucky enough to spot three transients across Blackfish Sound.

Humpback whales also live in the Johnstone Strait between May and September. They migrate north from Hawaii and Mexico to summer feeding grounds along BC’s north coast and Alaska. Unlike orcas, they don’t have teeth. Instead, they are filter feeders, straining huge mouthfuls of crustaceans and small fish through their baleen. They eat up to 3000lbs of food per day!

While less common, grey whales and minke whales are also sometimes spotted in the Johnstone Strait area.

What Other Wildlife Can You See in the Johnstone Strait

While whales are the biggest reason why people choose to kayak in the Johnstone Strait, I would definitely encourage you to think of them as a bonus and not as the main event. There are SO many other animals to see. And honestly while on my trip the whale encounters were definitely magical, many of the other animals will stick in my memory forever too.

We spent ages watching seals tumble through the water just offshore from our camps, curiously peering up at us. A huge bull sea lion cruised by, just feet away from our kayaks one afternoon, surprising us as he emerged suddenly from the depths. A pod of porpoises splashed by one afternoon. Salmon leapt out of the water seemingly just for the joy of, expending precious energy on their journey back to their spawning rivers.

Eagles perched obligingly on cedar branches, posing for our cameras like bad-ass models. An inquisitive mink slunk around one of our campsites, and later we discovered its nearby den. (A member of my group spotted her two kits, but I wasn’t lucky enough to see them.)

Waterbirds rafted up around us or flew overhead. Noisy belted kingfishers were our constant companion. We spotted rhinoceros auklets, a relative of the puffin. We also saw some endangered marbled murrelets. These small brown and white birds nest high in the branches of old-growth trees near the ocean. As the old-growth disappears, so do the marbled murrelets. 

What Indigenous Sites Can You Visit in the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago

The Johnstone Strait, Broughton Archipelago, and surrounding area are the traditional territory of the ‘Namgis, Mamalilikulla, and Kwikwasut’inuxw Haxwa’mis people. They belong to the broader Kwakwaka’wakw group and have inhabited the area since time immemorial. Today they live in a few small villages on Vancouver Island, the neighbouring mainland, and a few other islands. But signs of their widespread habitation are everywhere if you know where to look. 

On my trip, our guides took us to visit a former village site on Mound Island. We saw the foundations of at least a dozen houses. The forest featured several culturally modified trees, stripped of cedar bark for basketry and other uses. The beach we landed on was actually a gigantic shell midden, resulting from hundreds of years of use. We also saw the remains of a clam garden, a raised terrace visible at low tide that expanded the natural area where clams like to live. 

Our guides also took us to see a pictograph on a cliff on Berry Island in Mamlilikulla territory. The pictograph is hundreds of years old and very fragile. Do not touch it as the oils from your hands could damage it. Next to the pictograph is an indention in the rock called the Chief’s Bath. According to indigenous oral history, the indentation fills at high tide and the chief would bath in it… if his subjects placed warmed rocks from the fire into it first.

I’ve labelled both Mound Island and Berry Island on my map of the Johnstone Strait area (above) but I haven’t given the exact locations of the indigenous sites. I’ll let you discover them yourself. If you visit, be sure to tread lightly and give them the respect they deserve. If you want to learn more about indigenous culture in the Johnstone Strait area, visit the U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay. It’s an amazing museum with some beautiful exhibits.

What Other Cool Places Should You Check Out in the Johnstone Strait

I’ve spent a lot of time on remote parts of British Columbia’s coast (like Cape Scott, the Nootka Trail, and the West Coast Trail). But I was still surprised at how stunning the coastline is in the Johnstone Strait area. In particular, weaving through all the little narrow passageways between tiny islands was so gorgeous. Each little hidden bay and inlet was like a new treasure to uncover. The water is crystal clear in places, so you can see all the starfish, anemones, and sea cucumbers on the bottom. I also loved watching the long strands of bull kelp wave in the water.  Some of my favourite spots for that type of paddling were the Plumper Islands, the southern Broughton Archipelago, and the bays on the north side of Hanson Island. 

We also stopped for lunch at a place called Red Cove where the rocks were covered in fossils. Just walking around, it was easy to spot ammonite and trilobite fossils from thousands of years ago!

How to See Bioluminescence in the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago

One of the most magical parts of my trip was paddling at night through sparkly bioluminescence. But what exactly is bioluminescence? Basically, it’s flashes of light that plankton or algae known as dinoflagellates emit. It’s only visible when it’s really dark out. When something disturbs the plankton, they emit a small flash of bright light.

You can “trigger” the bioluminescence by trailing your hands in the water, splashing, or simply dipping your paddle in. But my favourite way to water the bioluminescence was to paddle in close to a rocky cliff. There, the barnacles feed on the plankton, and the plankton flash as they get eaten. It looks a bit like the barnacles are having their own fireworks show just under the water. 

The best places to see bioluminescence are in small bays or coves that are calm and sheltered from wind and waves. You need to go at night when it’s fully dark out, and ideally when the moon isn’t too bright. On the last night of our trip, our guide led us on a really memorable night paddle to see the bioluminescence in a cove near our camp. It’s pretty hard to take photos or video of the bioluminescence from a moving kayak, so you’ll just have to take my word for it that it was awesome. Definitely recommended! 

What is the Weather Like in the Johnstone Strait

Northern Vancouver is notorious for rain, fog, and stormy weather. Thankfully that reputation is mostly due to their winter weather, but definitely expect some rain on any trip. July and August see the least rain, but May, June, and September can be drier too.

With a marine climate, the Johnstone Strait is not the world’s warmest place. In the summer, average temperatures are between 10 and 18C (50-64F). However, if you’re lucky like me, you might even get some warm weather. On my trip, we had highs up to 25C (77F) and the guides said it was one of the warmest trips they could remember.

The main weather factor for a Johnstone Strait kayaking trip will be the winds. Typically, mornings are calm with maybe a bit of fog. But in the afternoons the wind whips up, funnelling through the narrow Johnstone Strait. Having a guide along to plan the route and avoid the full force of the winds was one of the things I really appreciated about my trip.

What to Bring on a Johnstone Strait Kayaking Trip

If you go on a guided kayak tour in Johnstone Strait, the tour company will provide most of what you will need including kayaks, PFDs, safety gear, camping gear, food, and drinking water. The company I used (At the Water’s Edge Adventures) even gave us chairs and cots! (Omg so comfortable – now I want to buy camping cots.) They will give you a couple of dry bags to store your personal clothing and gear. Here’s my recommended list of things to bring if you take a guided kayak tour. Where possible, I’ve added links to stuff I actually brought.

Paddling Gear

• neoprene paddling booties (You’ll be getting in and out of the kayaks in shallow water so these are a must and much more comfortable than sandals or sneakers when wet.)
• quick dry underwear and sports bra
• synthetic hiking pants, shorts or tights to wear under paddling pants (x2)
• quick dry long-sleeve shirt for sun protection (x2)
• fleece jacket
• sunhat and sunglasses
• sunscreen
• camera and/or Go Pro
• Phone tether (I used this stretchy cord to attach my phone to my life jacket zipper so it would be impossible to drop but I could still take photos.)

Camp Gear

• warm, quick-drying, and comfortable non-cotton clothes
• rain jacket and pants
• thermal long underwear for sleeping in
• cozy socks and a toque for nighttime
• running shoes
• lightweight puffy jacket
• headlamp
• toiletries
• book or eReader (See my picks for the best Canadian Adventure Books including The Killer Whale Who Changed the World. It’s about the changing human relationship with orcas.)

If you go self-guided, you’ll need to bring your own camping gear, cooking gear, and food. (See my backpacking gear checklist for a rundown on what you will need – it’s basically the same stuff.) You will also need to pack drinking water for your entire trip as there are very few reliable places to get fresh water on the islands.

Where to Camp in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait

Established/Formal Campsites

The Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago areas have very few formal campsites. If you want to go camping in the Broughton Archipelago, there are campsites with basic pit toilets at Owl Island and Leone Island, but I didn’t visit them so I can’t tell you what they are like. There are also two BC Recreation Sites on the Vancouver Island side of Johnstone Strait east of Telegraph Cove: Blinkhorn Peninsula and Kaikash Creek. They both have outhouses and campsites. We stayed at Kaikash Creek on our first night and had a once-in-a-lifetime visit from a pod of orcas just off our beach. Magic! We also had lunch at Blinkhorn Peninsula on our last day. There is a great viewpoint from near the navigation light, but the campsites are set back into the beach behind the peninsula.

Informal Campsites

You can also find tons of informal campsites everywhere in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait. There are large pockets of private land and indigenous land. So you need to check before you camp to make sure it’s allowed. As well, camping in some areas can be tough as the beaches are steep or disappear at high tide and flat ground for tents can be hard to find. The informal campsites don’t have toilets so you will need to be prepared to use your best Leave No Trace bathroom etiquette. 

Private Base Camps

Some guiding companies also have established base camps that only their clients can use. If you’re looking for a glamping experience, you could book with one of those companies. The company I went with doesn’t have a base camp. Instead, they let the weather, currents, and wildlife dictate their schedule. Their guides know about all kinds of hidden campsites throughout the area, so they can adjust their route on the fly. That lets them explore a bigger area, instead of having to paddle back to the same base camp every afternoon. And as a backpacker, the experience of having someone else cook my food and a chair to sit on while I ate it already felt like glamping, so I was glad I didn’t do a base camp experience and get tied down to one area.

Where I Camped

On our trip, we stayed at Kaikash Creek Recreation Site on Vancouver Island, at Freshwater Bay on Swanson Island, and at a small cove on Hanson Island. We had hoped to stay on Flower Island, which is just offshore from Freshwater Bay, but it was full. If you can stay at Flower Island, do it. It has an amazing view of Blackfish Sound and humpbacks constantly cruised right by the shoreline!

I had a life-changing and amazing time kayaking in the Johnstone Strait. I plan to return in the next few years to do a longer trip and explore more of the northern Broughton Archipelago. (And of course, spend some time in the Johnstone Strait to hang out with the whales.) This post should have everything you need to plan your own Johnstone Strait kayaking trip. If you have any questions, as always, leave them in the comments as I’d love to help. (And don’t forget to use code “HAPPIESTOUTDOORS” when you book with At the Water’s Edge Adventures to get 10% off.)

MORE posts I think you’d like:

• Things to do on North Vancouver Island
• Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit: Paddling in British Columbia
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island
• Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide
• Sunshine on the Edge of the World: Nootka Trail Trip Report

The post Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.