The route takes you up the coast of British Columbia through narrow inlets between mountainous islands. It’s called the “Inside Passage” because it avoids the rough open ocean. Along the way, you can spot whales, dolphins, rainbows, and lots of spectacular scenery.

Many people pay thousands of dollars to take a cruise ship through the Inside Passage on their way to Alaska. But the day-long ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert gets you the same views at a much lower price.

In this guide to the Inside Passage ferry you will find:

• Is the Inside Passage ferry worth it? Spoiler: I think so!
• Inside Passage ferry basics including routes, schedules, cost, and more
• The best time of year to take the ferry – which months are best?
• Advice for reservations and planning your trip including the standby list, booking hotels, and what to expect when you check in for the ferry
• What to expect on board including cabins, lounges, food, seating, and more
• What can you see from the ferry? My hour-by-hour run-down of the highlights you cruise past.
• What to bring on the ferry – My packing list
• Tips for taking the Inside Passage ferry to get the most out of your trip
• Inside Passage Ferry FAQ – all your questions answered

Hey there: Thanks so much for BC Ferries for hosting me on this trip. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

Is the Inside Passage Ferry Worth it?

The Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert is BC Ferries’ longest and most expensive ferry trip, so you might be wondering if it is worth it? My answer is yes!

The entire voyage is incredibly scenic with great views of mountains, ocean, islands, and tons of wildlife out the window. Many people pay tons of money to take an Inside Passage cruise to Alaska, but the BC Ferries Inside Passage trip is a fraction of the price. (Not gonna lie though, it’s still not cheap.)

If you are planning a trip to Northern BC, Haida Gwaii, or Gwaii Haanas National Park, it’s a no-brainer to book the Inside Passage ferry. Instead of spending hours stuck in a car, you get to chill out on a boat and let the scenery drift by. The travel time from Vancouver to Prince Rupert by ferry is also comparable to driving.

Inside Passage Ferry Basics

Routes: There are two main Inside Passage ferry routes. The BC Ferries route goes from the Bear Cove ferry terminal at Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert in northern BC. The Alaska Marine Highway Route goes from Bellingham, Washington to Sitka Alaska or from Prince Rupert, BC to Skagway, Alaska. In this post, I’m going to focus on the BC Ferries route only.

How long does it take? In the summer, the sailing takes 16.5 hours.

Schedule: There are daytime sailings from Port Hardy and Prince Rupert every other day in the summer, leaving in the morning. The rest of the year, there are fewer sailings, typically 1-2 days a week and all sailings are overnight voyages. See the BC Ferries website for the latest schedule.

Stops: The ferry stops at either the Heiltsuk village of Bella Bella or the Tsimshian village of Klemtu. These are both water-access-only Indigenous towns. They are brief stops, and you must remain on board if you are carrying on to Prince Rupert.

Cost: As of 2026, adult fares are $123 to $209 depending on the time of year you travel. Standard vehicles cost $269 to $479 depending on the time of year. There are fees for any extra length over 20 feet (6.1m). These prices don’t include taxes and fuel surcharges.

Reservations: In the summer, reservations are highly recommended as most sailings are full. If you don’t have a reservation, you can try going on standby, but it’s risky. You can make reservations on the BC Ferries website.

Vessel: You will be travelling on the Northern Expedition, which is an ocean-going ship capable of withstanding heavy seas. It has two passenger decks and an exterior sundeck with cabins, lounges, and a restaurant. See the On-Board Amenities section below for more details. (Note: Occasionally the Northern Adventure, a smaller vessel is used.)

Best Time to Take the Inside Passage Ferry

The Inside Passage ferry runs all year, so you can take it at any time. However, summer is the best time to go for a few reasons.

Firstly, the weather is better. This is a rainy part of the world, especially in the fall and winter, so going in the summer gives you a better chance of having a sunny day. On my June trip, we had some drizzle, but also some sun and it was still beautiful. The seas are also calmer in the summer.

Secondly, in the summer the ferry runs during the day instead of offering overnight sailings like they do in the winter. That means that you can spend the entire journey looking at the incredible scenery.

And lastly, there is more daylight in the summer to see the scenery. I went in mid-June close to the solstice and we had daylight for almost our entire trip. We also caught an incredible sunset just outside Prince Rupert.

Inside Passage Ferry Reservations and Planning Your Trip

Taking the BC Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert requires a bit of advance planning. Read on for my tips for making ferry reservations, booking hotels on either end of your trip, and checking in for the ferry.

Make Ferry Reservations in Advance

To avoid disappointment, make ferry reservations in advance as they do sell out. This is especially important if you are travelling with a vehicle. There is usually lots of room for passengers, but not for cars. The Northern Adventure has capacity for 115 cars, but there are often lots of cargo trucks and RVs on the ferry, which reduces capacity.

Going on Standby

If you don’t have a reservation, you can sign-up for the standby list for either vehicles or foot passengers when you arrive at the terminal. (There is usually lots of room for foot passengers so there is rarely a foot passenger stand-by list.)

Names go on the stand-by lists in the order that you arrive, so go early. Keep in mind that they may have lots of standby vehicle spots or none at all. And if you have a larger vehicle, your chances of getting on board via standby are smaller.

Getting to Port Hardy

Port Hardy is at the northern end of Vancouver Island. It is a 4-hour drive from Nanaimo or a 6-hour drive from Victoria. If you are coming from Vancouver, the best option is to take the ferry to Nanaimo from the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal in West Vancouver.

Psst! I recommend spending more time in the Port Hardy area. Read my list of the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island for all the details.

Book a Port Hardy Hotel in Advance

In the summer, the ferry leaves early in the morning. That means that you will likely need to book a hotel in Port Hardy. When booking, be sure to leave a note for the hotel that you will be on the ferry and will need an early check-out. Book early as the nicer hotels sell out and the remaining hotels are kind of gross.

I’ve been to Port Hardy nearly a dozen times. My favourite place to stay is the Kwa’lilas Hotel. It is Indigenous-run and has gorgeous decor without being too pricey. The on-site restaurant is good too.

As a second choice, I would recommend the Quarterdeck Inn which is right on the harbour. My most recent stay there was before my hike on the North Coast Trail. Both of my picks are a 10-minute drive from the ferry terminal.

If you have an RV, you are allowed to park at the Port Hardy ferry terminal the night before your sailing as long as you arrive before midnight. The fee is $22. There are also RV parks in Port Hardy.

Checking in for the Ferry

You need to check in at the terminal 90 to 120 minutes before the ferry leaves or you will lose your reservation and have to go on the stand-by list. That means that you may need to be at the ferry terminal as early as 5:30 am!

Once you arrive at the ferry terminal, you will need to confirm your reservation and show ID for all passengers. Next, you will be placed in a holding area based on the size of your vehicle.

If you are travelling without a car, you will check your luggage, just like on a plane. But of course, you can bring a small backpack or tote on board. Foot passengers have access to a small lounge while they wait to board.

Loading the Ferry

When it is your turn to load, you will need to show your ID again. They start loading the ferry about 90 minutes before the scheduled departure time. Foot passengers go on board right away but loading cars is a very slow process.

This is because the vessel only has one vehicle door so all cars need to turn around and back into their parking spots on the ferry. If you are driving an RV, you will need to back down the ramp onto the ferry. Ferry staff will help you by giving directions as you back up, but, if needed, they will also drive your vehicle onto the ferry and park it for you.

After your car is parked, workers will place wedges around the wheels to keep it from rolling during the voyage. Don’t forget to also put your parking brake on.

Cars load onto the ferry in order of size, with the smallest cars going first, then midsized cars, vans, and SUVs, then pick-up trucks, then RVs. You may be waiting a long time between check-in and loading, so bring a book or take a nap.

While BC Ferries workers do their best, delays during loading are common. Unless you are driving a small car, expect to wait two to three hours between check-in and loading.

Arrival in Prince Rupert

You will arrive in Prince Rupert late at night after a long journey. Make sure you have a hotel booked as you will be too exhausted to drive far.

I recommend the Crest Hotel, which is the nicest hotel in town. Be sure to book a sea view room – each one has a bay window with a panoramic view of the ocean.

The Prestige Prince Rupert also gets great reviews and is a bit cheaper. Both options are in downtown Prince Rupert, about 10 minutes from the ferry terminal.

If you are driving an RV, there is an RV Park a few minutes from the ferry terminal.

Psst! I recommend spending a few days in Prince Rupert – there are tons of things to do!

Inside Passage Ferry On-Board Amenities

Since you will be on board the vessel for 16 hours, it’s important to know all of the amenities. Here’s a quick run-down of what you will find. There are directories in the stairwells to help you find your way around the ship.

Lower Car Decks

The lower car decks are closed and inaccessible during the voyage for safety reasons. However, they be will open every few hours for 15 minutes if you need to get something from your car or attend to pets (which must stay in your vehicle). Each opening is announced on the vessel’s loudspeaker.

Upper Passenger Decks

There are three decks open to passengers throughout the voyage: decks 4, 5, and 6. This is where you will find the restaurants, lounges, cabins, gift shop, and kids’ area. I’ve got details on each of the key amenities below, as well as where to find them.

Passenger Cabins

There are very small passenger cabins on board if you want a private space or need to sleep. These are especially helpful if you are on an overnight sailing. My trip on the Inside Passage ferry was a daytime sailing so I didn’t book a cabin.

You can book an inside cabin (which doesn’t have a window), or an outside cabin with a window. It’s worth noting that the windows in the outside cabins look out across an outside deck so they don’t have the best view. Each has two twin beds and a tiny bathroom with a shower. They are very basic.

Inside cabins are cheaper at $140. Outside cabins cost $165.

You can reserve a cabin at the same time as you reserve your sailing. Cabin reservations sell out fast. When you board the vessel, head to the Purser’s office on deck 4 to get your cabin key card. If you don’t have a cabin reservation, you can also ask to be put on the cabin stand-by list here.

Aurora Lounge

The Aurora Lounge at the front of the ferry on deck 5 is available by reservation only. It has the best views on the ferry with huge glass windows that wrap around the bow of the vessel. The Aurora Lounge also has huge, comfy reclining chairs with footrests. It is only open between May and September.

You can book a seat in the Aurora Lounge when you make your reservation for the ferry. Seats cost $42 each. Your reservation guarantees you access to the lounge but it doesn’t book a specific seat.

When you board the ferry, go to the Purser’s office on deck 4 to get your key card to the lounge. Choose an available seat once you get inside. The best seats are the 14 in the front row.

I didn’t bother to pay extra for the Aurora Lounge on my trip and I don’t think I missed out on much as our seats still had a great view.

Vista Buffet Restaurant

The large Vista Buffet Restaurant is located at front of the vessel on deck 4. Many of the tables have great views. The restaurant offers a breakfast buffet with hot and cold items as well as a lunch and dinner buffet that includes soups, a salad bar and entrees.

The buffet closed in 2020 due to Covid-19 and still hasn’t reopened as of 2026, so I wasn’t able to eat there on my trip from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert. BC Ferries has announced that they have not yet decided if it will reopen.

If it does reopen, make sure you reserve a table either during booking or once you are on board as it gets booked up.

Canoe Cafe

The Canoe Cafe is the Northern Expedition’s cafeteria-style restaurant. Find it on deck 4 near the back of the boat. It’s a bit different than the cafeterias on other BC Ferries because it does not have a White Spot menu.

The cafe serves hot breakfasts as well as a lunch/dinner menu that is mostly burgers. They also have sandwiches and salads, but my favourite thing to order was the soup. They always have Manhattan-style clam chowder, but there is also a tasty soup of the day.

You can also get hot and cold drinks including machine-made espresso-based drinks. They also have beer and wine for sale.

There are tables in the canoe cafe, some of which have ocean views. Or you can get your food to go and eat it elsewhere on the ferry. When the cafe isn’t busy, the tables here can be a good place to play card games.

Raven Lounge

The semi-circular Raven Lounge is located at the back of the boat on deck 4 next to the Canoe Cafe. It has reclining seats and flat-screen TVs.

There are several movies shown in the lounge during the voyage. There is a schedule posted outside the Purser’s office and they also make an announcement on the loud-speaker before each movie starts.

Passages Gift Shop

The small gift shop includes lots of magazines, novels, local books, and art. Find it on deck 4 in the middle of the ferry. They also have stuff for kids and a surprisingly large selection of clothing. You can also find candy, travel-sized toiletries, and over-the-counter medication like pain-killers.

If you are looking for a souvenir, the gift shop is actually pretty good. I recommend the clothing and home goods from Native Northwest. They are an ethical brand that partners with local Indigenous artists to license their work and print it on t-shirts, bags, mugs, and more.

Kids Zone

There is a small children’s area with a play structure on deck 5 on the left side of the ship. It is located at the end of a regular lounge area without any physical separation, so it can get a bit loud. It’s a great place to hang out if you have kids… and a terrible place to sit if you don’t.

Seating Areas

There are three main non-reservable indoor seating areas on the ferry, which are open to everyone. They are all first-come, first serve. Unless you have reserved a cabin or the Aurora Lounge, I recommend making a bee-line to some of these seats as soon as you get on the ferry.

Deck Four Seating Area

The first seats you will encounter are pairs of seats on deck 4 along the window in the middle of the boat. These seats often get taken first since people see them first. But some of them face backwards and they are in a high-traffic area between the cafe and the gift shop, so they aren’t my first pick.

Deck Five Forwarding Facing Seats

The second place you will find seats is in the middle of the ferry on deck 5 next to the cabin area. These seats face forward so unless you are on the end near a window, you can’t really see outside. As well, the windows look out over an outside deck. The ones are the left side also get noise from the Kids Zone.

Deck Five Sideways Facing Seats

In my opinion, the best seats are on deck 5 at the front of the ferry just outside the Aurora Lounge. These seats face sideways, directly against the window. And there is no outside deck obstructing your view. Try to get a front-row seat here (there are 19 on each side of the ferry) for the best view.

This is where we sat on the ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert. It was a great place to watch the scenery go by and we saw tons of whales.

The only disadvantage is that you need to pay attention to get up and walk to the other side of the boat to see the sights on the other side. (See the “What Can You See” section below for details on can’t-miss highlights.)

Outside Decks

There are several outside decks on the ferry. You can access the outside decks on levels 4, 5, and 6. The outside deck on level six has a large glassed-in covered area with benches and tables. In nice weather, it’s the best place to hang out and enjoy the views.

Bathrooms and Showers

There are bathrooms on each level of the ferry. As well, a few of the bathrooms have showers, but you need to ask at the Purser’s office to get a key for access.

Accessibility

Most of the ferry is accessible for those who use wheelchairs or other mobility aids. There are two elevators for access between decks and accessible washrooms on decks 4 and 5. Due to raised sills, it may not be easy to get onto the outside decks if you use a wheelchair or other mobility aid, but there are some accessible exterior areas.

When you make your ferry reservation, you can select the accessibility option and get priority boarding so you can park next to the elevator. You can also book an accessible cabin.

Internet and Cell Phones

There is no wifi on-board and most of the voyage is outside of cell service. You will probably have cell service near Port Hardy, Bella Bella, Klemtu, and Prince Rupert, but it may be too weak to use the internet. Plan to spend the entire journey off the grid! Download all the music, movies, ebooks, and podcasts you will need before your trip.

What Can You See from the Inside Passage Ferry?

The entire journey from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert is incredibly scenic. Below I’ve got a run-down of what you will pass by along the way. The sites are listed in the order you would see them when travelling from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, so reverse the order if you are sailing the other way.

Whales and Other Wildlife

Keep an eye out for whales, dolphins, and other marine mammals feeding along the way. You can spot them any time but pay special attention to bays or inlets with river mouths as that is a favourite spot for them.

Leaving Port Hardy

The trip starts in Port Hardy. Almost immediately after leaving the harbour, you will pass between two small groups of picturesque islands. A few years ago, we kayaked near here in the Johnstone Strait. It was an incredible trip with lots of gorgeous marine life including tons of whales.

The next section of the trip has the roughest water as you cross Queen Charlotte Sound. This is the only spot where you will be exposed to the waves of the open ocean. Due to the currents, this section can have really unsettled seas with waves coming from multiple directions.

Before long, you will be done with the crossing and duck behind Calvert Island to begin your Inside Passage ferry trip. The remainder of the voyage is in sheltered inlets between islands and the mainland and has relatively calm water.

Namu

The first point of interest that you pass is Namu, a former cannery town that was built on top of a 10,000-year-old Heiltsuk First Nation village. You can spot the rusting cannery buildings from the right (east) side of the ferry. Namu is about 3.5 hours from Port Hardy or 11.5 hours from Prince Rupert.

Bella Bella

After the ferry swings left around Hunter Island, look for the Heiltsuk village of Bella Bella on your left (west). Depending on the ferry schedule, you may stop here to unload passengers and supplies for the town of 1,400 people. This is the largest town on the central coast. It’s about 5 hours from Port Hardy or 10 hours from Prince Rupert.

Dryad Point and Ivory Island Lighthouses

Just after Bella Bella, look for the Dyrad Point lighthouse on your left (west). The ferry swings left through here into Seaforth Channel, which has lots of small islands. Look for the Ivory Island lighthouse on your right. If you use binoculars, you will see the lush gardens around it, cultivated by generations of lighthouse keepers.

Klemtu

After Ivory Island, your route takes you through the slightly more open waters of Milbanke Sound, then into Finlayson Channel. Swindle Island, on your left (west), is home to Klemtu, a Tsimshiam village. The ferry stops here once or twice a week. This tiny town has a population of just 500 and is dependent on the ferry for supplies.

You can’t actually see the town from the ferry since it is hidden behind Cone Island. But you will be able to see the ferry dock a few kilometres north of the town just peeking out behind the island.

Boat Bluff Lighthouse

Just after passing Klemtu, look for Boat Bluff on your right (east). This is one of the prettiest lighthouses you will pass. It was built in 1907 to mark the narrow entrance to Tolmie Channel. It is about 7.5 hours from both Port Hardy and Prince Rupert, so it marks the halfway point of your trip.

Swanson Bay

After Boat Bluff, the ferry heads north into the long and narrow Tolmie Channel. Look for Swanson Bay on the right (east) side about 9.5 hours from Port Hardy or 5.5 hours from Prince Rupert. There was a pulp mill here until the 1940s, but today all you can see is a chimney and crumbling pilings.

Butedale

About 30 minutes later, look for Butedale on the left (west). This was once a thriving cannery town, but the last residents departed in the 1970s. Today it is a ghost town. The lake above the town is dammed and sends an impressive waterfall down into the ocean.

Grenville Channel

Your route takes you through Wright Sound, and then into Grenville Channel about 11 hours from Port Hardy or 4 hours from Prince Rupert. This channel is 70 km long and only 425 metres wide (1400 ft) at its narrowest point. Mountains rise steeply up from the ocean on both sides, making for spectacular scenery.

Arriving in Prince Rupert

After Grenville Channel, you will emerge into Chatham Sound and navigate past several small islands as you approach Prince Rupert Harbour. A few minutes before the harbour you can spot Trigon Pacific Terminals where coal is transferred from trains to freighters.

What to Bring on the Inside Passage Ferry

There’s no way around it – the ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert is long! While the incredible views will keep you interested, you will want to bring a few things on board to make you more comfortable.

Here’s my Inside Passage Ferry packing list:

• Binoculars: These are sooo helpful for spotting wildlife or getting a better look at the scenery passing by. Get the best quality binoculars you can afford – it really does make a difference.
• Rain jacket: You will want to spend time outside, especially if there are whales, but it can be rainy.
• Fleece or Light Puffy Jacket: It is windy and chilly on the outside decks. Layer a fleece or lightweight puffy under your rain jacket to stay warm.
• Books, movies, or music: You will want to bring some entertainment to keep you occupied. I brought my Kindle eReader, which I love for travel. And don’t forget to bring headphones for movies and music – your fellow passengers appreciate it!
• Power bank or multi-plug power bar: If you plan to use electronics, bring something to charge them. There aren’t very many plugs on the vessel and they are often occupied by other people charging. Bring a power bank so you don’t have to compete for a plug. Or bring a multi-plug power bar so you can be a hero and help lots of people charge at once.
• Small games: We saw many groups taking advantage of free tables in the cafe to play cards outside of meal times. We often travel with Exploding Kittens, Sushi Go, or Phase 10.
• Sleeping gear: With the early morning departure and late evening arrival, many people choose to take a nap on board. I brought my Sea to Summit Aeros Down pillow since it packs down to the size of a mandarin orange. I also used our puffy blanket. Since it was the middle of the day, my eye mask and foam earplugs came in handy.
• Sea sickness medication: While most of the voyage is in calm water, the first hour or two can be a bit rougher. As well, the weather can be unpredictable. If you are prone to seasickness, ginger tablets or stronger medication like Dramamine (sold as Gravol in Canada) can be helpful.
• Snacks: You will definitely want to visit the onboard cafe for a hot meal, but you may not want to eat all your meals there. Pack some snacks or even a full picnic.

Tips for Taking the Inside Passage Ferry

There are a few things I wish I had known before taking the Inside Passage Ferry. Here are my top tips:

• Book everything well in advance. Reservations for the ferry, cabins, lounges, and good hotels in Port Hardy and Prince Rupert sell out.
• Have a plan for where you want to sit. There are tons of seats on the ferry, but you will want to make sure you get a good spot. (It holds 640 passengers but usually only has about half that many people on board.) If you don’t want to splurge on the Aurora Lounge, I recommend the sideways seating just outside the lounge doors. You can leave coats or bags on the seats to reserve them if you get up to explore other areas of the ship.
• Make friends with the people sitting near you. We spent nearly the whole voyage chatting with the couple next to us, which was lovely. The people sitting in our section got in the habit of calling out “whale” when one was spotted so those of us who were reading or napping wouldn’t miss it.
• Spend lots of time outside. The views are the best out there. The seating area at the back of deck six is the best place to hang out.
• Bring snacks. The food at the cafe is pretty good, but it’s more for meals. We forgot to bring some granola bars, trail mix, or fruit and I wish we had.
• Bring binoculars. It makes watching the whales sooo much better!
• Have a sea sickness plan. I don’t usually get seasick on large boats, so I was surprised to feel sick on the first part of the voyage out of Port Hardy. I found out later that this is by far the roughest part of the sailing since the waves come from multiple directions. I ate a big breakfast (a mistake!) and only took ginger tablets, which wasn’t enough. (FYI: There are sea sickness bags available throughout the ferry.) Later I took Gravol (Dramamine), spent time in the fresh air outside, and felt much better. The Gravol did make me feel really sleepy though. For what it’s worth, almost no one else on my sailing got seasick, so you likely won’t have to worry about it. Read my friend Karen’s guide to preventing seasickness for more tips.
• Set yourself up for sleeping. If you plan to sleep on the ferry, booking a cabin is the best plan. But they are expensive and sell out, so many people sleep elsewhere. It’s hard to sleep in the chairs (even though they are comfy) so many people sleep on the floor. Lightweight backpacking sleeping pads are a great idea, although we didn’t bring ours up from the car. Many people sleep on the floor between the rows of seats. After taking sea sickness medication that knocked me out, I took a 2-hour nap on the floor!
• Use a GPS app: We have a subscription to Gaia GPS, a mapping app that works offline. We mostly use it for hiking, but it was really fun to see where were were and follow along with the ferry’s route. We used it to to see what was coming up or find out the names of nearby mountains and coves.

Inside Passage Ferry FAQ

So that’s everything you need to know to take the Inside Passage ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert. Do you have questions about the voyage? Leave them in the comments – I’d love to help you plan your trip.

READ NEXT:

• Things to do in Port Hardy and on Northern Vancouver Island
• 20+ Things to do in Prince Rupert, BC
• Things to Do in Haida Gwaii
• The Ultimate Guide to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve
• Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know
• How to Take an Epic Canadian National Parks Road Trip

The post Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Northern Vancouver Island is off the beaten path so it feels a bit wilder: Tiny towns, lush rainforest, great hiking, camping and kayaking, and SO MUCH WILDLIFE. North Vancouver Island is the place to go if you want to see whales, bears, sea lions, porpoises, and more.

I’ve made nine trips to Northern Vancouver Island over the years, and each time I discover another incredible place. (A of the trips were research for my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.) I haven’t seen everything there is to see on the north end of the Island yet, but believe me… I’m trying!

In this guide, I’ll give you all my insider info on the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island as well as where to stay and where to eat.

Hey there: Thanks so much to At the Water’s Edge Adventures, BC Ferries, and Vancouver Island North Tourism for hosting me on a trip in 2020. All the other trips were at my own expense and all opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Northern Vancouver Island Basics

Location

Northern Vancouver Island is located… on the north end of Vancouver Island. 😉  (Thanks Captain Obvious!)

Since most of Vancouver Island’s population is clustered around the southern tip, the definition of which part of Vancouver Island is the northern part can get pretty broad. (Some people think it’s anything north of Nanaimo which isn’t even half way up the island!)

In general, there is no dispute that anything north of the town of Campbell River is considered Northern Vancouver Island. So that’s the region I’m going to focus on in this post. 

How to Get to North Vancouver Island

The easiest way to get to Northern Vancouver Island is by car. Highway 19, also known as the Island Highway, runs the length of Vancouver Island from Nanaimo in the south all the way past Campbell River to Port Hardy in the north.

If you’re coming from the mainland, you can take a BC ferry from the Vancouver area to Nanaimo, then drive north from there. The drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy takes about 4 hours.

It’s also possible to fly to north Vancouver Island via charter flights between Vancouver and Port Hardy. You can also take a bus between Campbell River and Port Hardy.

It’s easiest to get around by car. The best place to rent a car is in Nanaimo. But you can also rent cars in Port Hardy. I use Discover Cars since it lets you compare prices from lots of different companies so you can be sure you are getting the best deal.

North Vancouver Island Weather

Northern Vancouver Island has a wet maritime climate. The area gets a LOT of rain between October and March. The driest months are July and August, but May, June, and early September can be nice too.

While it’s not a warm place, it never gets that cold either. In July and August, the average temperature is between 10 and 18C (50-64F). Between November and March, the average temperature is between 1 and 8C (34-46F).

In general, expect rain and chilly weather at any time of year. But you could also luck out. I’ve had several trips with good weather including in 2020 during my hike to Cape Scott and a kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait where we saw temperatures up to 25C (77F)!

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Indigenous Context

Northern Vancouver Island has been home to several indigenous groups since time immemorial and they still live here today.

The Kwakwaka’wakw have traditional territory on the entire northern end of Vancouver Island, extending into the islands of the Johnstone Strait and the adjoining mainland.

On the west coast of Vancouver Island, they share their territory with the Quatsino people.

Further south near Sayward, Kwakwaka’wakw territory overlaps with the We Wai Kai Nation, the K’omoks Nation, and the We Wai Kum Nation.

Consider supporting Indigenous-owned businesses on your trip to northern Vancouver Island. I’ve got several recommendations in this post.

North Vancouver Island Map

I made a custom google map for you that includes everything I mention in this post. Enjoy! This map is all you’ll need if you plan to stick to the paved roads and major towns.

However, if you are venturing off onto any of the gravel roads, I highly recommend you bring a copy of the Vancouver Island BC Backroad Map Book so you don’t get lost. (There’s no cell service outside of the towns.) I also love the offline version of the Gaia GPS app for navigating backroads and hiking trails.

Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island

Northern Vancouver Island is a huge area, with lots of things to do. My list of things to do in North Vancouver Island is set out in geographic order, from south to north, in the order you could visit them if you were driving up the Island Highway from Campbell River towards Port Hardy. 

Visit Sayward and Kelsey Bay

The tiny logging-oriented village of Sayward has been around since the 1890s. Originally only accessed by boat, today it is connected by road to the Island Highway.

Drive the short spur road into town to visit the Cable Cookhouse, a local cafe that is completely wrapped in steel logging cables. Continue through town to the port of Kelsey Bay. The wharf here is a popular place to fish or to just enjoy the view across the Johnstone Strait. 

Learn About Logging Railways in Woss

Woss is another tiny logging town just off the Island Highway. It has the unique distinction of being home to the last operating logging railway in North America.

After a tragic accident in 2017, the railway finally closed after 100 years of operation. Today, you can drive into town to visit historic Steam Locomotive 113. A nearby pavilion has interpretive panels where you can learn about the history of railway logging.

There is currently talk of turning the 90 km-long railway into a biking and hiking trail, which would be amazing as it cuts through some real wilderness. 

Little Huson Caves

Despite being just 20 minutes from highway 19, it took me several visits to north Vancouver Island before I made it to Little Huson Caves. In fact, I didn’t even know they existed until a few years ago. There are tons of caves on Vancouver Island, but this is one of the easiest to visit.

Atluck Creek runs through an area of limestone that is easily eroded. That means that here the creek runs right through a huge cave! Take a short walk down a hill (with some stairs) to two different viewing platforms, one at the creek entrance to the cave, the other at the exit!

READ NEXT: Little Huson Caves Hiking Guide

Stroll the Boardwalk at Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove used to be the northern end of a telegraph line that stretched the length of Vancouver Island. It slowly changed from a telegraph station, into a fishing and cannery village, and today it is an eco-tourism hub. It’s definitely worth the detour off the highway – it’s really cute!

Stroll the wooden boardwalk past historic buildings to the Whale Museum or grab a drink at the cafe and soak up the views. Telegraph Cove is also a popular launching spot for fishing boats, whale watching, and kayaking tours.

Kayak with Whales in the Johnstone Strait

The Johnstone Strait off the coast of northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places in the world to see whales. Humpback whales migrate through all summer long and the area has a high concentration of orcas (killer whales). And one of the best ways to see whales is from a kayak.

I went on a life-changing kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait in 2020. We saw whales every day, visited Indigenous sites, saw tons of sea lions, seals, porpoises, and eagles, and visited some remote (and gorgeous) islands.

The most popular place to launch kayaks is from Telegraph Cove. You can rent kayaks or go on guided tours that last anywhere from an afternoon to a week.

I went with At the Water’s Edge Adventures who launch from a private beach next to Telegraph Cove. They are offering my readers 10% off any trip with them – just use code HAPPIESTOUTDOORS.

READ NEXT: My guide to Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

Visit Port McNeill

Port McNeill is the second largest town on Northern Vancouver Island. It’s a compact little town with shops, restaurants, and hotels. Wander along the seawall downtown for great views of the harbour.

Don’t miss the world’s largest burl at the east end of town. (Fun fact: Port McNeill is also home to another giant burl. It was the world’s largest burl until the current one was discovered in 2005. You can find the runner-up burl about 5 minutes east of town just off Highway 19.)

Take a Grizzly Bear Watching Tour

Taking a boat-based bear watching tour up Knight Inlet was definitely one of the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island. While Northern Vancouver Island has roads and settlements, the nearby mainland has only a few boat-in villages. The huge expanse of wilderness supports a healthy population of grizzly bears.

We watched a mother grizzly bear and her two nearly full-grown cubs explore the coastline in search of mussels and other food. Later, we switched to a smaller boat to cruise up a river estuary and spy on a huge male grizzly eating grass.

I did my tour with Sea Wolf Adventures, based in Port McNeill. They are a local indigenous-run company. Our guides (Sherry and Karissa) were knowledgeable and worked hard to make sure the boat was always in position to take the best photos. The food was great too! 

Go Whale Watching

With humpbacks migrating through every summer and a large resident orca (killer whale) population, northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places to see whales in BC.

Since I have been kayaking with whales and saw quite a few whales on my bear watching tour with Sea Wolf, I haven’t actually been on a whale watching tour on northern Vancouver Island.

But locals recommend Mackay Whale Watching out of Port McNeill. They are a small family-run company and have been running whale watching tours in the area for four decades. 

Ride the Eco-Conscious Island Aurora Ferry

BC Ferries runs the Island Aurora from Port McNeill to the nearby island communities of Alert Bay and Sointula on Malcolm Island. While the towns are definitely worth visiting (and info about them is below), the ferry ride alone is pretty fun.

This brand-new ferry was added to the BC Ferries fleet in 2020. It’s part of a move towards eco-consciousness and uses a hybrid engine. (It runs 20% on battery power, the remainder on diesel.)

Eventually, BC Ferries hopes to introduce a shore-based charging system so that the Island Aurora can run entirely on battery power. The hybrid system is much quieter than conventional engines, which is great for both passengers and the resident whales.

The views of Johnstone Strait from the ferry are spectacular, and with fairly low rates for both walk-on passengers and cars, it’s the cheapest way to get out on the water on northern Vancouver Island!

Pro tip: Take a day trip to both Alert Bay and Sointula on the same day using just one ticket to save money. You will need to take the ferry back to Port McNeill to switch between the two communities – just tell ferry staff you want to visit both.

Experience Indigenous Culture in Alert Bay

Alert Bay is a small community on Cormorant Island, just a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. About half of the island is a ‘Namgis First Nation reserve. The ‘Namgis are part of the larger Kwakwaka’wakw Nation. This is one of the best places to experience Indigenous culture in Canada.

I highly recommend a visit to the U’mista Cultural Centre to learn about their history and culture. This fabulous museum has a huge collection of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw dance masks and memorabilia used in cultural events like potlatches.

In the 1920s, potlaches were declared illegal and the government stole these ceremonial objects and gave them to museums around the world. The Kwakwaka’wakw have worked hard to bring these important cultural treasures back to their traditional territory and display them on their own terms. 

Alert Bay is also home to a forest of totem poles with over 30 poles spread around town. The world’s largest totem pole, at 173 feet tall (53m) also towers over the island.

If you want to go for a walk, the Alert Bay Ecological Park is a great option. Well-marked flat trails and boardwalks lead through an upland marsh fed by underground springs. It’s a great place for birdwatching.

You can also walk around the town and explore the historical buildings.

Visit Sointula and Malcolm Island

The village of Sointula on Malcolm Island has an interesting history. Finnish settlers founded the town in 1901 as a utopian collective society. In Finnish, Sointula means “place of harmony”.

Even though it is just across the water from Port McNeill, it has retained a lot of its unique character. Many older residents still speak Finnish and the cooperatively-run local store, the Sointula Coop, has been open for over 100 years. You can learn more about local history at the tiny Sointula Museum.

Today, the island is home to lots of artists and is a great place for hiking and biking.

If you have time, be sure to make the short drive out to Bere Point. The pebble beach there is a favourite spot for resident orcas to rub their bellies at high tide. A citizen science orca research team sets up tents near the viewpoint each year. Stop in to ask them about the most recent whale sightings.

Drive the Alice Lake Loop

If you are up for some backroads driving, take on the Alice Lake Loop. I haven’t had time for the 2.5-hour trip yet, but it’s high on my list. This mini-road trip visits some of northern Vancouver Island’s unique karst features, formed by centuries of water eroding rock.

Highlights include the Devil’s Bath, a water-filled sinkhole that connects to a river underground, and the Eternal Fountain, a waterfall that appears out of the side of a cliff, then disappears beneath your feet. Take a break in the town of Port Alice part-way along to have lunch and stroll along the ocean-front seawalk.

Visit Port Hardy

Port Hardy is the largest town on north Vancouver Island, its economic centre, and the jumping-off point for ferries to northern BC. It’s a good place to grab a meal, buy groceries, or shop for souvenirs.

Don’t miss the Book Nook and Drift, which share space with Cafe Guido on Market Street. Drift has really cute locally-made clothing and home goods and the Book Nook has a great selection of local books.

For the easiest eagle spotting around, go for a walk along the seawall. The resident eagles are sure to be flying overhead, foraging on the beach at low-tide, or calling out from their nests in the nearby treetops.

Although I haven’t had time to visit, I’ve also heard that the museum at the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre is great for rainy days, especially if you take a tour of the hatchery.

Another thing that’s on my list is visiting the nearby Kwagu’ł Nation community of Tsaxis (Fort Rupert) to visit Calvin Hunt‘s gallery of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw carvings.

Take the Inside Passage Ferry to Northern BC

Port Hardy is the departure point for the Inside Passage ferry to Northern BC. This epic all-day ferry cruises up the coast to Prince Rupert. Along the way, it passes spectacular scenery including picturesque islands, towering mountains, narrow inlets and tons of whales. On my trip we saw the best rainbows.

READ NEXT: Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC

Get Off the Beaten Path on Gravel Roads

If you venture off the paved Island Highway, you’ll be heading further off the beaten path than most tourists who visit north Vancouver Island. The remote communities of Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, Quatsino, and Holberg are small resource-based towns, focused on fishing and forestry with a growing community of summer residents.

But if you are into nature, the surrounding areas are worth investigating too. You’ll find remote beaches, deserted campgrounds, hiking trails, and incredible fishing.

Use the Vancouver Island North Recreation map to get ideas on where to go. You can drive sometimes rough gravel roads to Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, and Holberg, but you’ll need a boat to get to Quatsino.

If you make the drive, bring a map or use the Gaia GPS app since there is no cell service. Pack a spare tire, and be prepared to pull over for speeding logging trucks. Most roads go through the town of Holberg. If it’s open, be sure to stop at the Scarlet Ibis. It’s Vancouver Island’s most remote pub.

Visit Winter Harbour

Winter Harbour is a tiny town that has been around since the 1890s. It began as a fishing village but diversified to become a logging town as well by the 1950s. When the logging operation shut down in 2017, the town’s population dropped to just two year-round residents.

However, in the summer the old loggers shacks fill up with vacationers going salmon fishing or exploring the labrynith of inlets. Be sure to stop at the Outpost General Store, then walk the unique waterfront boardwalk which connects homes and businesses along the inlet and predates the road network.

If you’re up for adventure, drive the backroads to hike to Grant Bay. The short trail leads to what I think is one of the most beautiful remote sandy beaches on Northern Vancouver Island. To get there, take West Main from Winter Harbour Road, then follow it to its end.

Hike, Canoe, Camp, and Surf at Raft Cove Provincial Park

Remote Raft Cove Provincial Park is located on the wild west coast of Northern Vancouver Island. There are two ways to get there, but both start with a long drive on logging roads.

You can canoe 5 km down the Macjack River to its mouth from a put-in off Topknot Main FSR accessed from Winter Harbour. Or you can make a tough and muddy 3 km hike to the beach from a trailhead on Ronning Main FSR access from Holberg.

Once you arrive, the sand stretches for a kilometres and waves pound in from the Pacific Ocean. It’s a popular spot for surfers. There is a great backcountry campground on the peninsula at the mouth of the Macjack River.

Get more info on visiting Raft Cove in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Visit Ronnings Garden

Ronning’s Garden is one of the most unique places to visit on Northern Vancouver Island. Norwegian settler Bernt Ronning built a homestead on the wagon road between Holberg and Cape Scott around 1910. He cleared the bush to create an impressive garden that spanned nearly 5 acres.

He died in 1963 and the rainforest started to reclaim the garden. But in the last few decades new owners have worked on restoring the garden. Today you can walk into the garden to see huge monkey puzzle trees and many other interesting plants from around the world.

Find Ronnings Garden just off San Josef Main on the way to Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Hike and Camp at Cape Scott Provincial Park

Cape Scott Provincial Park sits at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. It’s a wild and beautiful place of white sand beaches, dense rainforest, incredible wildlife, and settler history.

The only way to explore the park is by day hiking or backpacking in to one of the remote backcountry campgrounds. The park has three main trails: the easy and flat day-hike to San Josef Bay, the moderate 3-day backpacking trip to Cape Scott Lighthouse, and the challenging 6-day North Coast Trail. Cape Scott is one of my favourite places and I’ve hiked into the park six times.

Get more info on visiting Cape Scott Provincial Park in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Get My Book…

Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
• Advice for extending your trip
• Points of cultural and natural history

Get the book

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide

READ NEXT: North Coast Trail Guide

Where to Eat on North Vancouver Island

Since many of the communities on northern Vancouver Island are small, you may have to do a bit of advance planning when it comes to where to eat. Most of the towns have at least one restaurant, pub, cafe, or general store but a few do not.

There are also a few restaurants that are worth planning for. Here are my picks for the best restaurants on north Vancouver Island.

Cafe Guido

This adorable hipster coffee shop in Port Hardy wouldn’t be out of place in a big city. Cafe Guido has sandwiches, baked goods, and of course coffee. They share space with the Book Nook and Drift, so allow time for browsing.

Duchess’ Bannock and Desserts

If you’re in Alert Bay, don’t miss trying Duchess’ Bannock. If you’ve never had bannock before, it’s a traditional indigenous fried bread. Duchess’ bannock was some of the best I have ever tasted.

If you have a sweet tooth, order the bannock and berries instead of just the plain bannock. It comes covered in three kinds of berries, berry sauce, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and sprinkles. Sooo good. (Just make sure you share it with someone – it’s huge!)

ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ Pub

The ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ pub at the newly refurbished Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy serve local, Indigenous-inspired west coast cuisine. (Fun fact: in Kwakwaka’wakw, ha’me‘ means food and nax’id’ means drink.)

We’ve eaten there a few times. My husband was really impressed with their salmon burger… which was served on bannock. 

Where to Stay on North Vancouver Island

With campgrounds, B&Bs, and lodges scattered across northern Vancouver Island, it’s easy to find a place to stay. Here are a few of my favourites:

Bere Point Campground, Malcolm Island

I haven’t actually camped here, but it’s high on my list after visiting for the day in 2020. Located next to the famous whale rubbing beach on Malcolm Island, it has incredible campsites, many of which are right on the ocean. On my visit, campers were trading stories of their many whale sightings! Book in advance as it is popular.

Telegraph Cove Resort, Telegraph Cove

We stayed in the Telegraph Cove Lodge building at the Telegraph Cove Resort before our Johnstone Strait kayaking trip. It has great views of the cove. You can also stay in their collection of historic homes right on the boardwalk – they are super cute! Check prices.

Kwa’lilas Hotel, Port Hardy

I spent three nights at the Indigenous-run Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy on my 2020 visit to northern Vancouver Island. It’s completely renovated with gorgeous First Nations art in every room. Definitely one of the more upscale places to stay on northern Vancouver Island (without being expensive or pretentious). Check prices.

The Quarterdeck Inn, Port Hardy

We stayed at harbour-front Quarterdeck Inn in Port Hardy in 2021. It has comfortable rooms and is right on the water. It’s the best place to stay if you are hiking the North Coast Trail since it is right next to the water taxi dock. (We stayed here the night before our 2021 NCT hike.) Check prices.

Nimpkish Hotel, Alert Bay

This boutique hotel stands out along the waterfront in Alert Bay. The Nimpkish Hotel is a bright blue historic building with a big deck and lots of windows for great views of the Alert Bay Harbour. With only nine rooms and breakfast included, you’ll feel like you’re staying at a B&B, not a hotel. Check prices.

Humpback Inn, Port McNeill

The Humpback Inn in Port McNeill is a newly refurbished motel with a cute retro vibe. It’s right by the water and an easy walk to everything including whale and bear watching tours. Friends stayed her and loved it. Check prices.

Cape Scott Provincial Park

If you want to get away from it all, you can’t beat a hike-in campsite at Cape Scott Provincial Park. The sea stacks at San Josef Bay are great if you want a short hike, but for the real experience, make the full-day trek out to Nel’s Bight for the full white sand beach experience. The best part: no reservations required! (Read my guide to Cape Scott to plan your trip.)

Now you have all the info you need to head to northern Vancouver Island. What is your favourite thing to do on north Vancouver Island? Tell me in the comments. And as always, send me your questions as I’m happy to help answer them.

More Things to do on Vancouver Island

• Little Huson Caves on Vancouver Island
• Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know
• The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island

Hiking Guides for Vancouver Island

• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide

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