Raft Cove Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/raft-cove/ Sharing advice, info and inspiration about my happy place: the Great Outdoors. Fri, 30 Jan 2026 22:32:15 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3 https://happiestoutdoors.ca/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/cropped-favicon@3x-32x32.png Raft Cove Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/raft-cove/ 32 32 25 Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia https://dawnoutdoors.com/spring-backpacking-in-british-columbia/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/spring-backpacking-in-british-columbia/#comments Tue, 06 Feb 2024 19:55:40 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=1015 After a long winter, I’m usually in a rush for summer to start so I can go backpacking. But it can be frustrating since most trails are snow-covered well into June and July. However, if you know where to look, there are lots of places to go on spring backpacking trips in British Columbia. While …

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After a long winter, I’m usually in a rush for summer to start so I can go backpacking. But it can be frustrating since most trails are snow-covered well into June and July. However, if you know where to look, there are lots of places to go on spring backpacking trips in British Columbia.

While this post is aimed at locations where you can go on an overnight hiking trip in spring, most of these trips make great fall backpacking trips in British Columbia too.

In BC, most mountain trails are snow-covered between late October and mid-June. However, there are lots of lower elevation trails that are snow-free between March and November. There are even a few on this list that you can backpack year-round.

This list of 25 spring backpacking trips in British Columbia includes:

  • Destinations near Vancouver, on Vancouver Island, and in BC’s interior
  • Trips ranging in difficulty from beginner to expert
  • Hikes between 2 and 8 days long
  • Trails that are usually snow-free by March, April, or May and stay snow-free until October or November
  • Tips for spring backpacking trips in British Columbia
  • Bonus: Spring backpacking suggestions for Washington State

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Map of Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia

Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia Google Map
Click to open in Google Maps

Tips for Spring Backpacking in British Columbia

Backpacking in the spring has its own challenges. Here are a few things to watch out for:

Weather: In spring, the weather is colder and wetter than in summer. It’s also less predictable. Pack accordingly and be prepared to cancel your trip or switch to a different destination if the forecast looks bad. (Use these picks for the best weather apps for hiking.)

Trail Conditions: Many trails suffer blow-downs, wash-outs, and flooding over the winter. Often, parks staff and volunteers do trail maintenance in late May or June, which means trails can be in rough shape before then. (Here are my tips for how to check trail conditions.)

Mud: Wet and muddy trails are inevitable in spring. Come prepared with waterproof hiking boots and gaiters.

Creek crossings: Streams run high in the spring with a combo of snow-melt and rain. Bridges may be washed out and fords may be dangerous. Be prepared to turn back.

Bears: As they wake up from hibernation and tend to new cubs, bears are more active in spring, especially in valley-bottom and coastal locations where there are lots of things for them to eat at this time of year. Read more about bear safety for backpackers.

Seasonal closures: Some parks and trails are closed in the off-season, or may have temporary closures to due damaged infrastructure. Check park and trail websites before you go.

Trailhead access issues: In spring, logging roads that access trailheads may be muddy or washed out. If you’re heading to a trail that requires a water taxi or floatplane, fog and rough weather may delay or cancel your trip. Shuttle services between trailheads may not start operating until May.

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Spring Backpacking Trips in Southwestern British Columbia

Viewpoint Beach and Halfmoon Beach, Golden Ears Provincial Park

Heads up: Day passes are required at Golden Ears Provincial Park in summer. However, if you have a backcountry permit registration, you don’t need a day pass. Learn more in my guide to BC Parks day passes.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 9.6 to 19.4 km round trip

Best Months: April to November

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 170 to 275 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

This easy hike in Golden Ears Provincial Park follows the banks of Gold Creek. There are trails on both the west and east sides of the creek, connected by a bridge, so loop trips are possible. You can camp at Viewpoint Beach or venture further upstream to Halfmoon Beach.

This is the closest place to Vancouver that you can take a spring backpacking trip in British Columbia and also made my list of the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia. For info on camping fees, see Golden Ears Provincial Park.

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

Lindeman and Greendrop Lakes, Chilliwack Lake Provincial Park

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 3.4 to 11 km round trip

Best Months: April to early November

Difficulty: Easy/moderate

Elevation Gain: 200 to 350 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

It’s a short hike to picturesque Lindeman Lake where you can camp next to the tranquil turquoise waters. If you have more energy, carry on along the rougher trail to Greendrop Lake. Lindeman Lake is often snow-free in April, but Greendrop Lake holds snow into May.

Lindeman Lake is also one of my picks for beginner-friendly backpacking rips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia. For info on camping fees, see S⨱ótsaqel / Chilliwack Lake Provincial Park.

Get My Book…

Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia

A one-stop resource for backpackers in beautiful British Columbia.

  • 40 backpacking trips within a few hours of Vancouver
  • Info about permits, reservations, and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
3D cover of Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia Book

Skagit River Trail, Skagit Valley Provincial Park

Note: Access to this trail was disrupted by the November 2021 storms. The river has changed course at the Sumallo Grove trailhead and the bridge is not accessible at times of high water. In late summer, it’s an easy ford. However, western trailhead on Silver-Skagit Road in Skagit Valley Provincial Park is open between mid-April and November, so you can access it from that direction.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 8 km round trip or 14 km traverse

Best Months: April to November

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 75 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

This laid-back hike follows a historic fur-trade route along the banks of the Skagit River as it flows downstream. You can do an 8 km round trip hike from the Sumallo Grove Trailhead in Manning Provincial Park, camping at Delacy Camp. If you have two cars, you make a 14 km traverse from Sumallo Grove to Silver-Skagit Road.

The Skagit River Trail is one of the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and the E.C. Manning & Skagit Valley Provincial Parks map from Clark Geomatics.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Tikwalus Heritage Trail, Fraser Canyon

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 13 km round trip

Best Months: May to October

Difficulty: Challenging

Elevation Gain: 790 m

Fees and Reservations: None

This historical Indigenous and fur trade route leads steeply up from Highway 1 in the Fraser Canyon to several spectacular lookouts. Camp high on a bluff near several small lakes. The trail takes its name from a former Nlaka’pamux village near the trailhead.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia.

READ NEXT: How to Go Backpacking in BC Without Reservations

Lower Stein Valley, Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux Heritage Provincial Park

Note: A large wildfire burned the lower Stein Valley trail in July and August 2023. As of early 2026, the trail is currently only open up to Earl’s Cabin camp 10.5 km from the trailhead.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 4 to 26 km round trip

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 30 to 350 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

The warm, dry climate in Lytton makes the Lower Stein Valley my favourite choice for spring backpacking trips in British Columbia – Over the years, I’ve been there six times in March, April, and May. The valley is a spiritual place for the local Nlaka’pamux First Nation.

The trail travels next to the Stein River passing Indigenous pictographs and culturally modified trees. Choose from five different campgrounds spaced out along the lower section of the trail. This is one fo the best places for beginner backpacking in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and the Stein to Joffre Trail Map by Trail Ventures BC.

READ NEXT: How to Make Backcountry Camping Reservations in BC

Cheakamus Lake, Garibaldi Provincial Park

Heads up: Day passes are required at Cheakamus Lake in summer. However, if you have a backcountry camping reservation, you don’t need a day pass. Learn more in my guide to BC Parks day passes.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 7 to 14 km round trip

Best months: May to early November

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 50 m

Fees and Reservations: Reservations are required. Camping fees charged.

As the lowest elevation trail in Garibaldi Provincial Park, Cheakamus Lake is a good spring backpacking destination. The flat and easy trail leads through old-growth forest to the beautiful glacially-fed lake. Camp at the lake outlet or follow the trail along the shoreline to camp at Singing Creek.

This trail is my number one pick for easy backpacking near Vancouver.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and the Garibaldi Provincial Park Map by Clark Geomatics. For info on camping fees and reservations, see Garibaldi Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

Get My Book…

Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia

A one-stop resource for backpackers in beautiful British Columbia.

  • 40 backpacking trips within a few hours of Vancouver
  • Info about permits, reservations, and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
3D cover of Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia Book

Fairview Bay/Saltery Bay Loop, Sunshine Coast Trail

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 12 km round trip or 18 km loop

Best Months: April to November

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 150 to 570 m

Fees and Reservations: None

Portions of the Sunshine Coast Trail are snow-covered most of the year, but you can tackle this low elevation section starting at the southern terminus in Saltery Bay. Hike along the coast to Fairview Bay hut as an out-and-back trip, or take on the full loop, camping at either Fairview Bay Hut or Rainy Day Lake Hut.

The trip to Fairview Bay is on my list of the best easy bacpacking trips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Confederation Lake and Fiddlehead Landing, Sunshine Coast Trail

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 15 to 30 km round trip

Best Months: April to November

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging

Elevation Gain: 650 m

Fees and Reservations: None

Here’s another low elevation section of the Sunshine Coast Trail (SCT) that is perfect for a spring backpacking trip. The trail starts at Inland Lake, then climbs steeply through thick old-growth forest to a hut on the shores of Confederation Lake. Follow the SCT downhill to Fiddlehead Landing on the shores of Powell Lake and another hut.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia.

Sarah Point to Powell River, Sunshine Coast Trail

Duration: 3-4 Days

Distance: 50 km traverse

Best Months: March to November

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 375 m

Fees and Reservations: None

This northern section of the Sunshine Coast Trail is an ideal spring backpacking destination. Arrange a water taxi or 4WD shuttle to the trailhead at Sarah Point or skip the first few kilometres by taking the shortcut trail to Wednesday Lake from Sarah Point Road. Finish your trip at the Shinglemill Pub in Powell River. Along the way, walk along bluffs speckled with arbutus trees, through old-growth forest, and past small lakes.

More Info: Read my trip report from my March backpacking trip on the northern section of the Sunshine Coast Trail. Part of this section is also featured in my book Backpacking in Southwestern British Columbia.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

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Spring Backpacking Trips on Vancouver Island

Narvaez Bay, Saturna Island

The campground at Narvaez Bay on Saturna Island in Gulf Islands National Park.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 3.5 km round trip

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 80 m

Fees and Reservations: Reservations are required. Camping fees charged.

This oceanfront campground is located on the southeastern side of Saturna Island in Gulf Islands National Park Reserve. It’s an easy hike in from the trailhead and the trail is also open to bikes. FYI: There is no potable water here so you’ll have to pack in your own. It’s also on my list of the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. See Gulf Islands National Park Reserve for camping reservations.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: BC Backpacking Reservation Dates You Need to Know

Juan de Fuca Trail, Juan de Fuca Provincial Park

Note: The Juan de Fuca Trail is closed in summer 2025 due to significant storm damage. It is not possible to hike the entire trail, but you can visit and camp at Mystic Beach and East Sombrio Beach. The full trail is expected to re-open in late May, 2026.

Duration: 3 to 5 days

Distance: 47 km traverse

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Challenging

Elevation Gain: 190 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

The rugged Juan de Fuca Trail runs along the coast from near Jordan River to Port Renfrew. It’s a little shorter than the West Coast Trail, its famous neighbour to the north, but it’s just as rugged and has more hills. This trail crosses lots of steep gullies, so it is prone to washouts in the spring, fall, and winter months.

More Info: Read my Juan de Fuca Trail guide for full details. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For camping fees, see Juan de Fuca Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Juan De Fuca Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island

West Coast Trail, Pacific Rim National Park

Note: The West Coast Trail is open from May 1 to September 30 each year. The National Park officially closes the trail from October to the end of April.

Duration: 5-8 days

Distance: 75 km traverse

Best Months: May to September

Difficulty: Challenging

Elevation Gain: 225 m

Fees and Reservations: Reservations are required. Trail fees and National Park entry fees charged.

The West Coast Trail is Canada’s most famous multi-day hike. Since it opens in May, it also makes a great spring backpacking trip. The 75-kilometre-long trail follows the wild shoreline with the help of bridges, ladders, and cable cars. Each night you will camp on a wilderness beach.

More Info: Get details on this hike in my West Coast Trail guide. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For info on reservations, trail fees, and National Park fees, see Pacific Rim National Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

Keeha Beach, Pacific Rim National Park

A hiker walks on Keeha Beach near Bamfield, BC in Pacific Rim National Park
Keeha Beach

Note: Keeha Beach is open from May 1 to early October each year. The National Park officially closes the trail from early October to the end of April.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 7 km round trip

Best Months: May to early October

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 45 m

Fees and Reservations: Reservations are required. Camping fees and National Park entry fees charged.

This sandy beach is located just north of the West Coast Trail. It’s a short hike to get there, but allow plenty of time as the trail is very rough with lots of slippery roots and tons of mud. (The mud is pretty epic – comparable to the North Coast Trail.) You can also day hike to the nearby Cape Beale Lighthouse.

More Info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For trail fees, and reservations, see Pacific Rim National Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Della Falls Trail

A hiker admires the base of Della Falls from the Della Falls Trail
At the base of Della Falls

Duration: 2-5 days

Distance: 32 km round trip

Best Months: Mid-May to September

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 540 m

Fees and Reservations: None

At 440-metres-tall, Della Falls is one of the tallest waterfalls in Canada. To get there, you first have to canoe, motor boat, or water taxi across Great Central Lake. Then hike up through a river valley to the base of the falls. Don’t miss a side trip on the Love Lake trail for incredible views of the falls.

The water taxi starts running on May 15 each year when the falls are in full flow. However, snow can linger in May and early June in the upper valley and on the Love Lake Trail, so go prepared.

More Info: Get all the details in my Della Falls Trail guide and join the Della Falls Facebook group. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Della Falls Trail Hiking Guide

Wild Side Trail, Flores Island

Note: The Wild Side Trail is open from May to October each year. The Ahousaht Nation officially closes the trail from November to April.

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 22 km round trip

Best Months: May to October

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 30 m

Fees and Reservations: Trail fees charged.

The Wild Side Trail has one of the best effort to reward ratios of any of Vancouver Island’s coastal trails. It’s one of my favourite spring backpacking trips in British Columbia – I’ve done it twice in May! This trail is also one of my picks for the best beginner backpacking trips in BC.

It’s an easy walk along beaches and through the forest to a gorgeous campsite at Cow Bay. There are also two other campsites along the way. The hike is located in Ahousaht First Nation territory on Flores Island near Tofino, so you’ll need to arrange a water taxi.

More Info: Get details on this hike in my Wild Side Trail guide. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For info on trail fees and camping fees, see the Wild Side Trail website.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide

Hesquiat Peninsula Trail, West Coast Vancouver Island

Duration: 4 to 5 days

Distance: 50 km traverse

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Elevation Gain: 50 m

Fees and Reservations: None

If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure, take a water taxi or floatplane to the remote Hesquiat Peninsula on the west coast of Vancouver Island. This informal trail follows the rugged coastline as it bucks and dips across rocky headlands, through surge channels, and along beaches. There are no facilities or formal campsites.

More info: See Hiking the West Coast of Vancouver Island by Tim Leadem, and Hesquiat Peninsula Provincial Park.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

Nootka Trail, West Coast Vancouver Island

Duration: 3 to 5 days

Distance: 36 km traverse

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 50 m

Fees and Reservations: Trail fees and a landing fee charged. All camping is first-come, first-served.

The Nootka Trail is my favourite coastal hike in BC. It’s located on Nootka Island off the west coast of Vancouver Island, so you need to take a water taxi or floatplane to get there. What makes this trail special is that it is almost entirely on the beach. There are no formal facilities or campsites.

More info: See my Nootka Trail trip report. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For info on fees, see Yuqot.ca, the Mowachaht-Muchalaht First Nation website.

READ NEXT: Sunshine on the Edge of the World: Nootka Trail Trip Report

Tatchu Peninsula Trail, West Coast Vancouver Island

A tent on the beach at sunset on the Tatchu Trail, a wilderness backpacking trip on the Tatchu Peninsula on the west side of Vancouver Island, BC
Sunset at Sandpiper Creek on the the Tatchu Trail

Duration: 3 to 4 days

Distance: 20-40 km (traverse or out-and-back)

Best Months: May to October

Difficulty: Moderate/Very Challenging

Elevation Gain: 30 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

The Tatchu Peninsula is a wilderness hike on the west coast of Vancouver Island. The hike traces a route down the west side of the peninsula, linking numerous beaches with short overland trails. There are no formal facilities or campsites. You can do the easier (and more scenic) northern section as an out-and-back or complete a very challenging traverse.

More info: See my Tatchu Trail guide, Rugged Point Provincial Park. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Raft Cove, Raft Cove Provincial Park

Logs on the beach at Raft Cove Provincial Park on Northern Vancouver Island
Raft Cove

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 4 km round trip

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 70 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged between May and September. (Otherwise, it is free.) All campsites are first-come, first-served.

Raft Cove is a remote beach on the north end of Vancouver Island, reached by a maze of logging roads from the tiny town of Holberg. It’s a short walk into the beach, but the rough and muddy trail makes it seem longer. Camp on the sandy beach and watch surfers work the waves just offshore.

This is one of my picks for the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More info: Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. See Raft Cove Provincial Park for info and camping fees.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

San Josef Bay, Cape Scott Provincial Park

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 5 km return

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 45 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged between May and September. (Otherwise, it is free.) All campsites are first-come, first-served.

This is the easiest trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park, but it still has spectacular scenery. The trail winds through the coastal forest and ends at a beautiful beach. At low tide, you can explore incredible sea stacks. There are two beaches to camp on separated by a headland that is impassable at high tide.

The flat trail makes it one of the best easy backpacking trips in BC.

More info: For more info, see my Cape Scott guide, the North Coast Trail Map by John Baldwin, and the North Coast Trail Waterproof Map by Wild Coast. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For camping fees, see Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

Cape Scott Trail, Cape Scott Provincial Park

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 41.5 km round trip

Best Months: Year-round

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 100 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged costs between May and September. (Otherwise, it is free.) All campsites are first-come, first-served.

While the north end of Vancouver Island gets a lot of rain, the Cape Scott Trail can be a great spring backpacking destination if you get a window of good weather. It’s a long hike through bog and coastal forest on old settler trails to the campsite at Nel’s Bight. From there, you can day hike to Cape Scott, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island.

More Info: Get details on this hike in my Cape Scott Trail guide, the North Coast Trail Map by John Baldwin, and the North Coast Trail Waterproof Map by Wild Coast. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For camping fees, see Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island

North Coast Trail, Cape Scott Provincial Park

Duration: 5 to 6 days

Distance: 43 km traverse

Best Months: Mid-April to early October

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Elevation Gain: 245 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged between May and September. (Otherwise, it is free.) All campsites are first-come, first-served.

The tough North Coast Trail traverses the northern end of Vancouver Island. It starts with a water taxi drop-off in Shushartie Bay and ends when it intersects the Cape Scott Trail at Nissen Bight. In between, there is lots of muddy and rough trail through coastal bog and old-growth forest, and a few gorgeous beaches.

More Info: Get details on this hike in my North Coast Trail guide. Find details on this hike in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island. For camping fees, see Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island

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Spring Backpacking Trips in British Columbia’s Interior

Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 22 to 40 km

Best Months: Mid-March to October

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging

Elevation Gain: 200 to 1100 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

This large park between Kelowna and Naramata has several different spring backpacking options. You can hike to Divide Lake and Baker Lake near the summit of Okanagan Mountain. You can also follow the Wild Horse Canyon Trail to campsites on the shores of Okanagan Lake. A connecter trail links the two, so you can make a big loop. Spring and fall are the best time to visit this park, as it is too hot in the summer.

More info: See Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

READ NEXT: How to Go Backpacking in BC Without Reservations

Okanagan High Rim Trail

Duration: 3 to 4 days

Distance: 58 km traverse

Best Months: May to October

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging

Elevation Gain: 800 m

Fees and Reservations: None.

This trail follows an elevated route above the Okanagan Valley between Vernon and Kelowna. In most years, it is snow-free by early to mid May. This trail is only a few years old and crisscrosses lots of forestry roads in between great viewpoints and small lakes.

More Info: Get the details from the Okanagan High Rim Trail Association.

Psst! You can get to this hike without a car! It’s on my list of car-free backpacking trips in BC.

Join the Backpacking in BC Facebook Group

Deer Point Trail, Gladstone Provincial Park

Duration: 2 days

Distance: 12 to 22 km round trip

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 150 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

The low elevation Deer Point Trail along Christina Lake in Gladstone Provincial Park near Grand Forks make a good spring backpacking destination. You can camp at Trapper Creek partway along the trail or at Troy Creek at the north end of the lake. Both campsites are open to boaters as well.

More Info: Get info on the trail and camping fees from Gladstone Provincial Park.

Flatiron Trails, Wells Gray Provincial Park

Duration: 2 to 3 days

Distance: 10 to 46 km round trip or 25 km traverse

Best Months: April to October

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Gain: 250 to 500 m

Fees and Reservations: Camping fees charged. All campsites are first-come, first-served.

Note: In 2023, a few key bridges washed out and with high water, it is currently not possible to cross the creeks and reach any of the campsites.

Even though it is near the entrance to the park, Flatiron area of Wells Gray Provincial Park is a bit under-the-radar. A network of trails follows creeks to the banks of the Clearwater River and there are three backcountry campgrounds. You can access the area from three different trailheads, making loop trips or a traverse possible.

More Info: Get info on the trails from Exploring Wells Gray Park by Roland Neave. For camping fees see Wells Gray Provincial Park.

Discover BC’s best backpacking trips

  • 40 backpacking trips within a few hours of Vancouver
  • 35 backpacking trips and day hikes on Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations, and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
Book covers for Bakpacking in Southwestern British Columbia and Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Spring Backpacking Trips in Washington

Since it is a short trip across the border, it’s worth mentioning a few spring backpacking locations in Washington State.

Olympic Coast: The wilderness coast in Olympic National Park is accessible year-round. With several access points, lots of different trips are possible. As a bonus, it’s easier to get permits in the spring. For trip ideas, see my guides to Shi Shi Beach, Ozette Loop, and Toleak Point.

Enchanted Valley: Follow the East Fork Quinault River Trail into the Enchanted Valley in the rainforest of Olympic National Park.

East Bank Trail, Ross Lake: This trail in North Cascades National Park follows the shoreline of Ross Lake. See my East Bank Trail trip report.

Chelan Lakeshore Trail: This 17-mile-long trail in Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest begins and ends with a ferry on Lake Chelan. The trail finishes at the boat-access-only village of Stehekin in North Cascades National Park.

So that gives you 25 different spring backpacking trips in British Columbia to choose from!  Which one would you choose?  I’ve hiked most of these trails (some of them several times) so feel free to ask me more about them in the comments.

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Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-on-north-vancouver-island/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-on-north-vancouver-island/#comments Wed, 11 May 2022 17:46:00 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=8987 Vancouver Island in British Columbia is a special place. But most visitors tend to stick to the well-known spots on the southern end. Which is really too bad because there are so many great things to do on northern Vancouver Island. It’s actually my favourite part! Northern Vancouver Island is off the beaten path so …

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Vancouver Island in British Columbia is a special place. But most visitors tend to stick to the well-known spots on the southern end. Which is really too bad because there are so many great things to do on northern Vancouver Island. It’s actually my favourite part!

Northern Vancouver Island is off the beaten path so it feels a bit wilder: Tiny towns, lush rainforest, great hiking, camping and kayaking, and SO MUCH WILDLIFE. North Vancouver Island is the place to go if you want to see whales, bears, sea lions, porpoises, and more.

I’ve made nine trips to Northern Vancouver Island over the years, and each time I discover another incredible place. (A of the trips were research for my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.) I haven’t seen everything there is to see on the north end of the Island yet, but believe me… I’m trying!

In this guide, I’ll give you all my insider info on the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island as well as where to stay and where to eat.

Hey there: Thanks so much to At the Water’s Edge Adventures, BC Ferries, and Vancouver Island North Tourism for hosting me on a trip in 2020. All the other trips were at my own expense and all opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Northern Vancouver Island Basics

Location

Northern Vancouver Island is located… on the north end of Vancouver Island. 😉  (Thanks Captain Obvious!)

Since most of Vancouver Island’s population is clustered around the southern tip, the definition of which part of Vancouver Island is the northern part can get pretty broad. (Some people think it’s anything north of Nanaimo which isn’t even half way up the island!)

In general, there is no dispute that anything north of the town of Campbell River is considered Northern Vancouver Island. So that’s the region I’m going to focus on in this post. 

How to Get to North Vancouver Island

The easiest way to get to Northern Vancouver Island is by car. Highway 19, also known as the Island Highway, runs the length of Vancouver Island from Nanaimo in the south all the way past Campbell River to Port Hardy in the north.

If you’re coming from the mainland, you can take a BC ferry from the Vancouver area to Nanaimo, then drive north from there. The drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy takes about 4 hours.

It’s also possible to fly to north Vancouver Island via charter flights between Vancouver and Port Hardy. You can also take a bus between Campbell River and Port Hardy.

It’s easiest to get around by car. The best place to rent a car is in Nanaimo. But you can also rent cars in Port Hardy. I use Discover Cars since it lets you compare prices from lots of different companies so you can be sure you are getting the best deal.

North Vancouver Island Weather

Northern Vancouver Island has a wet maritime climate. The area gets a LOT of rain between October and March. The driest months are July and August, but May, June, and early September can be nice too.

While it’s not a warm place, it never gets that cold either. In July and August, the average temperature is between 10 and 18C (50-64F). Between November and March, the average temperature is between 1 and 8C (34-46F).

In general, expect rain and chilly weather at any time of year. But you could also luck out. I’ve had several trips with good weather including in 2020 during my hike to Cape Scott and a kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait where we saw temperatures up to 25C (77F)!

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Indigenous Context

Northern Vancouver Island has been home to several indigenous groups since time immemorial and they still live here today.

The Kwakwaka’wakw have traditional territory on the entire northern end of Vancouver Island, extending into the islands of the Johnstone Strait and the adjoining mainland.

On the west coast of Vancouver Island, they share their territory with the Quatsino people.

Further south near Sayward, Kwakwaka’wakw territory overlaps with the We Wai Kai Nation, the K’omoks Nation, and the We Wai Kum Nation.

Consider supporting Indigenous-owned businesses on your trip to northern Vancouver Island. I’ve got several recommendations in this post.

North Vancouver Island Map

I made a custom google map for you that includes everything I mention in this post. Enjoy! This map is all you’ll need if you plan to stick to the paved roads and major towns.

However, if you are venturing off onto any of the gravel roads, I highly recommend you bring a copy of the Vancouver Island BC Backroad Map Book so you don’t get lost. (There’s no cell service outside of the towns.) I also love the offline version of the Gaia GPS app for navigating backroads and hiking trails.

Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island Map
Click to open in Google Maps

Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island

Northern Vancouver Island is a huge area, with lots of things to do. My list of things to do in North Vancouver Island is set out in geographic order, from south to north, in the order you could visit them if you were driving up the Island Highway from Campbell River towards Port Hardy. 

Visit Sayward and Kelsey Bay

The tiny logging-oriented village of Sayward has been around since the 1890s. Originally only accessed by boat, today it is connected by road to the Island Highway.

Drive the short spur road into town to visit the Cable Cookhouse, a local cafe that is completely wrapped in steel logging cables. Continue through town to the port of Kelsey Bay. The wharf here is a popular place to fish or to just enjoy the view across the Johnstone Strait. 

People fish from the pier at Kelsey Bay near the village of Sayward, BC
The pier at Kelsey Bay near Sayward

Learn About Logging Railways in Woss

Woss is another tiny logging town just off the Island Highway. It has the unique distinction of being home to the last operating logging railway in North America.

After a tragic accident in 2017, the railway finally closed after 100 years of operation. Today, you can drive into town to visit historic Steam Locomotive 113. A nearby pavilion has interpretive panels where you can learn about the history of railway logging.

There is currently talk of turning the 90 km-long railway into a biking and hiking trail, which would be amazing as it cuts through some real wilderness. 

An old steam locomotive left over from the logging railway era in Woss, BC
Steam Locomotive 113 on display in Woss

Little Huson Caves

Despite being just 20 minutes from highway 19, it took me several visits to north Vancouver Island before I made it to Little Huson Caves. In fact, I didn’t even know they existed until a few years ago. There are tons of caves on Vancouver Island, but this is one of the easiest to visit.

Atluck Creek runs through an area of limestone that is easily eroded. That means that here the creek runs right through a huge cave! Take a short walk down a hill (with some stairs) to two different viewing platforms, one at the creek entrance to the cave, the other at the exit!

READ NEXT: Little Huson Caves Hiking Guide

A woman in a green top stands at the entrance to Little Huson Cave on Northern Vancouver Island. The creek is flowing into a huge cave surrounded by evergreen trees and moss.
Little Huson Cave

Stroll the Boardwalk at Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove used to be the northern end of a telegraph line that stretched the length of Vancouver Island. It slowly changed from a telegraph station, into a fishing and cannery village, and today it is an eco-tourism hub. It’s definitely worth the detour off the highway – it’s really cute!

Stroll the wooden boardwalk past historic buildings to the Whale Museum or grab a drink at the cafe and soak up the views. Telegraph Cove is also a popular launching spot for fishing boats, whale watching, and kayaking tours.

Buildings along the boardwalk and boats in the marina in Telegraph Cove, BC
Buildings on stilts and the heritage boardwalk in Telegraph Cove

Kayak with Whales in the Johnstone Strait

The Johnstone Strait off the coast of northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places in the world to see whales. Humpback whales migrate through all summer long and the area has a high concentration of orcas (killer whales). And one of the best ways to see whales is from a kayak.

I went on a life-changing kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait in 2020. We saw whales every day, visited Indigenous sites, saw tons of sea lions, seals, porpoises, and eagles, and visited some remote (and gorgeous) islands.

The most popular place to launch kayaks is from Telegraph Cove. You can rent kayaks or go on guided tours that last anywhere from an afternoon to a week.

I went with At the Water’s Edge Adventures who launch from a private beach next to Telegraph Cove. They are offering my readers 10% off any trip with them – just use code HAPPIESTOUTDOORS.

READ NEXT: My guide to Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

A group of kayakers in the Johnstone Strait - one the best things to do on north Vancouver Island
Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

Visit Port McNeill

Port McNeill is the second largest town on Northern Vancouver Island. It’s a compact little town with shops, restaurants, and hotels. Wander along the seawall downtown for great views of the harbour.

Don’t miss the world’s largest burl at the east end of town. (Fun fact: Port McNeill is also home to another giant burl. It was the world’s largest burl until the current one was discovered in 2005. You can find the runner-up burl about 5 minutes east of town just off Highway 19.)

Take a Grizzly Bear Watching Tour

Taking a boat-based bear watching tour up Knight Inlet was definitely one of the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island. While Northern Vancouver Island has roads and settlements, the nearby mainland has only a few boat-in villages. The huge expanse of wilderness supports a healthy population of grizzly bears.

We watched a mother grizzly bear and her two nearly full-grown cubs explore the coastline in search of mussels and other food. Later, we switched to a smaller boat to cruise up a river estuary and spy on a huge male grizzly eating grass.

I did my tour with Sea Wolf Adventures, based in Port McNeill. They are a local indigenous-run company. Our guides (Sherry and Karissa) were knowledgeable and worked hard to make sure the boat was always in position to take the best photos. The food was great too! 

A grizzly bear eats mussels along the shoreline in Knight Inlet near north Vancouver Island, BC
We watched this young grizzly bear, his brother, and his mother, gorge on mussels. The crunching was SO loud!
A large grizzly bear grazes on grass and sedge in an estuary in Knight Inlet
We watched this large male grizzly bear eat grasses and sedges in a river estuary from a small inflatable boat. Our guide told us that when this large male bear moves into the estuary, they don’t see any other bears for weeks. Grizzlies are very territorial.

Go Whale Watching

With humpbacks migrating through every summer and a large resident orca (killer whale) population, northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places to see whales in BC.

Since I have been kayaking with whales and saw quite a few whales on my bear watching tour with Sea Wolf, I haven’t actually been on a whale watching tour on northern Vancouver Island.

But locals recommend Mackay Whale Watching out of Port McNeill. They are a small family-run company and have been running whale watching tours in the area for four decades. 

Orca whale spyhopping in the Johnstone Strait on north Vancouver Island
An orca spyhopping in the Johnstone Strait. Our guides explained that killer whales do this so they can get a better look around above water.
Tail fluke of a humpback whale in the Johnstone Strait on north Vancouver Island
The tail of a humpback whale as it dives deep in search of food.

Ride the Eco-Conscious Island Aurora Ferry

BC Ferries runs the Island Aurora from Port McNeill to the nearby island communities of Alert Bay and Sointula on Malcolm Island. While the towns are definitely worth visiting (and info about them is below), the ferry ride alone is pretty fun.

This brand-new ferry was added to the BC Ferries fleet in 2020. It’s part of a move towards eco-consciousness and uses a hybrid engine. (It runs 20% on battery power, the remainder on diesel.)

Eventually, BC Ferries hopes to introduce a shore-based charging system so that the Island Aurora can run entirely on battery power. The hybrid system is much quieter than conventional engines, which is great for both passengers and the resident whales.

The views of Johnstone Strait from the ferry are spectacular, and with fairly low rates for both walk-on passengers and cars, it’s the cheapest way to get out on the water on northern Vancouver Island!

Pro tip: Take a day trip to both Alert Bay and Sointula on the same day using just one ticket to save money. You will need to take the ferry back to Port McNeill to switch between the two communities – just tell ferry staff you want to visit both.

Island Aurora BC Ferry at the dock in Port McNeill, BC
The Island Aurora at the dock in Port McNeill

Experience Indigenous Culture in Alert Bay

Alert Bay is a small community on Cormorant Island, just a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. About half of the island is a ‘Namgis First Nation reserve. The ‘Namgis are part of the larger Kwakwaka’wakw Nation. This is one of the best places to experience Indigenous culture in Canada.

I highly recommend a visit to the U’mista Cultural Centre to learn about their history and culture. This fabulous museum has a huge collection of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw dance masks and memorabilia used in cultural events like potlatches.

In the 1920s, potlaches were declared illegal and the government stole these ceremonial objects and gave them to museums around the world. The Kwakwaka’wakw have worked hard to bring these important cultural treasures back to their traditional territory and display them on their own terms. 

Alert Bay is also home to a forest of totem poles with over 30 poles spread around town. The world’s largest totem pole, at 173 feet tall (53m) also towers over the island.

If you want to go for a walk, the Alert Bay Ecological Park is a great option. Well-marked flat trails and boardwalks lead through an upland marsh fed by underground springs. It’s a great place for birdwatching.

You can also walk around the town and explore the historical buildings.

The U'mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay, BC
Outside the U’mista Cultural Centre. Photos aren’t allowed inside so you will have to visit it yourself to see the amazing carved masks.
A hiker walks on a boardwalk in the Alert Bay Ecological Park on north Vancouver Island
Walking the boardwalk in the Alert Bay Ecological Park

Visit Sointula and Malcolm Island

The village of Sointula on Malcolm Island has an interesting history. Finnish settlers founded the town in 1901 as a utopian collective society. In Finnish, Sointula means “place of harmony”.

Even though it is just across the water from Port McNeill, it has retained a lot of its unique character. Many older residents still speak Finnish and the cooperatively-run local store, the Sointula Coop, has been open for over 100 years. You can learn more about local history at the tiny Sointula Museum.

Today, the island is home to lots of artists and is a great place for hiking and biking.

If you have time, be sure to make the short drive out to Bere Point. The pebble beach there is a favourite spot for resident orcas to rub their bellies at high tide. A citizen science orca research team sets up tents near the viewpoint each year. Stop in to ask them about the most recent whale sightings.

The waterfront at Sointula on Malcolm Island on north Vancouver Island
The waterfront in Sointula on Malcolm Island

Drive the Alice Lake Loop

If you are up for some backroads driving, take on the Alice Lake Loop. I haven’t had time for the 2.5-hour trip yet, but it’s high on my list. This mini-road trip visits some of northern Vancouver Island’s unique karst features, formed by centuries of water eroding rock.

Highlights include the Devil’s Bath, a water-filled sinkhole that connects to a river underground, and the Eternal Fountain, a waterfall that appears out of the side of a cliff, then disappears beneath your feet. Take a break in the town of Port Alice part-way along to have lunch and stroll along the ocean-front seawalk.

Visit Port Hardy

Port Hardy is the largest town on north Vancouver Island, its economic centre, and the jumping-off point for ferries to northern BC. It’s a good place to grab a meal, buy groceries, or shop for souvenirs.

Don’t miss the Book Nook and Drift, which share space with Cafe Guido on Market Street. Drift has really cute locally-made clothing and home goods and the Book Nook has a great selection of local books.

For the easiest eagle spotting around, go for a walk along the seawall. The resident eagles are sure to be flying overhead, foraging on the beach at low-tide, or calling out from their nests in the nearby treetops.

Although I haven’t had time to visit, I’ve also heard that the museum at the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre is great for rainy days, especially if you take a tour of the hatchery.

Another thing that’s on my list is visiting the nearby Kwagu’ł Nation community of Tsaxis (Fort Rupert) to visit Calvin Hunt‘s gallery of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw carvings.

Carved wooden Welcome to Port Hardy sign at the waterfront in Port Hardy, BC
This carved wooden sign dating back to an era before eco-tourism welcomes you to Port Hardy
BC Ferry in Port Hardy
BC Ferry returning to Port Hardy from the Inside Passage route to Northern BC

Take the Inside Passage Ferry to Northern BC

Port Hardy is the departure point for the Inside Passage ferry to Northern BC. This epic all-day ferry cruises up the coast to Prince Rupert. Along the way, it passes spectacular scenery including picturesque islands, towering mountains, narrow inlets and tons of whales. On my trip we saw the best rainbows.

A rainbow seen from the rear deck of the Inside Passage ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert
A rainbow from the rear deck of the Inside Passage ferry

READ NEXT: Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC

Get Off the Beaten Path on Gravel Roads

If you venture off the paved Island Highway, you’ll be heading further off the beaten path than most tourists who visit north Vancouver Island. The remote communities of Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, Quatsino, and Holberg are small resource-based towns, focused on fishing and forestry with a growing community of summer residents.

But if you are into nature, the surrounding areas are worth investigating too. You’ll find remote beaches, deserted campgrounds, hiking trails, and incredible fishing.

Use the Vancouver Island North Recreation map to get ideas on where to go. You can drive sometimes rough gravel roads to Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, and Holberg, but you’ll need a boat to get to Quatsino.

If you make the drive, bring a map or use the Gaia GPS app since there is no cell service. Pack a spare tire, and be prepared to pull over for speeding logging trucks. Most roads go through the town of Holberg. If it’s open, be sure to stop at the Scarlet Ibis. It’s Vancouver Island’s most remote pub.

Visit Winter Harbour

Winter Harbour is a tiny town that has been around since the 1890s. It began as a fishing village but diversified to become a logging town as well by the 1950s. When the logging operation shut down in 2017, the town’s population dropped to just two year-round residents.

However, in the summer the old loggers shacks fill up with vacationers going salmon fishing or exploring the labrynith of inlets. Be sure to stop at the Outpost General Store, then walk the unique waterfront boardwalk which connects homes and businesses along the inlet and predates the road network.

If you’re up for adventure, drive the backroads to hike to Grant Bay. The short trail leads to what I think is one of the most beautiful remote sandy beaches on Northern Vancouver Island. To get there, take West Main from Winter Harbour Road, then follow it to its end.

Waterfront boardwalk in the tiny town of Winter Harbour on Northern Vancouver Island, BC
The waterfront boardwalk in Winter Harbour
Remote Grant Bay Beach near Winter Harbour on Northern Vancouver Island
Grant Bay Beach

Hike, Canoe, Camp, and Surf at Raft Cove Provincial Park

Remote Raft Cove Provincial Park is located on the wild west coast of Northern Vancouver Island. There are two ways to get there, but both start with a long drive on logging roads.

You can canoe 5 km down the Macjack River to its mouth from a put-in off Topknot Main FSR accessed from Winter Harbour. Or you can make a tough and muddy 3 km hike to the beach from a trailhead on Ronning Main FSR access from Holberg.

Once you arrive, the sand stretches for a kilometres and waves pound in from the Pacific Ocean. It’s a popular spot for surfers. There is a great backcountry campground on the peninsula at the mouth of the Macjack River.

Get more info on visiting Raft Cove in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

The beach at Raft Cove Provincial Park on northern Vancouver Island
The beach at Raft Cove Provincial Park. The campground is at the far end of the beach.

Visit Ronnings Garden

Ronning’s Garden is one of the most unique places to visit on Northern Vancouver Island. Norwegian settler Bernt Ronning built a homestead on the wagon road between Holberg and Cape Scott around 1910. He cleared the bush to create an impressive garden that spanned nearly 5 acres.

He died in 1963 and the rainforest started to reclaim the garden. But in the last few decades new owners have worked on restoring the garden. Today you can walk into the garden to see huge monkey puzzle trees and many other interesting plants from around the world.

Find Ronnings Garden just off San Josef Main on the way to Cape Scott Provincial Park.

The entrance to Ronning's Garden on Northern Vancouver Island is marked by an old sign and a giant monkey puzzle tree.
The sign and giant monkey puzzle tree at the entrance to Ronning’s Garden

Hike and Camp at Cape Scott Provincial Park

Cape Scott Provincial Park sits at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. It’s a wild and beautiful place of white sand beaches, dense rainforest, incredible wildlife, and settler history.

The only way to explore the park is by day hiking or backpacking in to one of the remote backcountry campgrounds. The park has three main trails: the easy and flat day-hike to San Josef Bay, the moderate 3-day backpacking trip to Cape Scott Lighthouse, and the challenging 6-day North Coast Trail. Cape Scott is one of my favourite places and I’ve hiked into the park six times.

Get more info on visiting Cape Scott Provincial Park in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

  • 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
  • Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
  • Detailed maps and photos
  • Advice for extending your trip
  • Points of cultural and natural history
Backpacking on Vancouver Island book cover

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide

READ NEXT: North Coast Trail Guide

Hikers and campers on the beach at Guise Bay in Cape Scott Provincial Park on North Vancouver Island in British Columbia
Hikers and campers on the beach at Guise Bay, one of the remote hike-in campsites on the Cape Scott Trail
A male hiker wearing a green backpack hikes past sea stacks at San Josef Bay in Cape Scott Provincial Park on Northern Vancouver Island
Walking past sea stacks at low tide at San Josef Bay

Where to Eat on North Vancouver Island

Since many of the communities on northern Vancouver Island are small, you may have to do a bit of advance planning when it comes to where to eat. Most of the towns have at least one restaurant, pub, cafe, or general store but a few do not.

There are also a few restaurants that are worth planning for. Here are my picks for the best restaurants on north Vancouver Island.

Cafe Guido

This adorable hipster coffee shop in Port Hardy wouldn’t be out of place in a big city. Cafe Guido has sandwiches, baked goods, and of course coffee. They share space with the Book Nook and Drift, so allow time for browsing.

Duchess’ Bannock and Desserts

If you’re in Alert Bay, don’t miss trying Duchess’ Bannock. If you’ve never had bannock before, it’s a traditional indigenous fried bread. Duchess’ bannock was some of the best I have ever tasted.

If you have a sweet tooth, order the bannock and berries instead of just the plain bannock. It comes covered in three kinds of berries, berry sauce, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and sprinkles. Sooo good. (Just make sure you share it with someone – it’s huge!)

A dish of bannock fry bread with berries and whip cream from Duchess' Bannock in Alert Bay, BC
Bannock and berries from Duchess’ Bannock. So good!

ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ Pub

The ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ pub at the newly refurbished Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy serve local, Indigenous-inspired west coast cuisine. (Fun fact: in Kwakwaka’wakw, ha’me‘ means food and nax’id’ means drink.)

We’ve eaten there a few times. My husband was really impressed with their salmon burger… which was served on bannock. 

Where to Stay on North Vancouver Island

With campgrounds, B&Bs, and lodges scattered across northern Vancouver Island, it’s easy to find a place to stay. Here are a few of my favourites:

Bere Point Campground, Malcolm Island

I haven’t actually camped here, but it’s high on my list after visiting for the day in 2020. Located next to the famous whale rubbing beach on Malcolm Island, it has incredible campsites, many of which are right on the ocean. On my visit, campers were trading stories of their many whale sightings! Book in advance as it is popular.

Telegraph Cove Resort, Telegraph Cove

We stayed in the Telegraph Cove Lodge building at the Telegraph Cove Resort before our Johnstone Strait kayaking trip. It has great views of the cove. You can also stay in their collection of historic homes right on the boardwalk – they are super cute! Check prices.

Kwa’lilas Hotel, Port Hardy

I spent three nights at the Indigenous-run Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy on my 2020 visit to northern Vancouver Island. It’s completely renovated with gorgeous First Nations art in every room. Definitely one of the more upscale places to stay on northern Vancouver Island (without being expensive or pretentious). Check prices.

The Quarterdeck Inn, Port Hardy

We stayed at harbour-front Quarterdeck Inn in Port Hardy in 2021. It has comfortable rooms and is right on the water. It’s the best place to stay if you are hiking the North Coast Trail since it is right next to the water taxi dock. (We stayed here the night before our 2021 NCT hike.) Check prices.

Nimpkish Hotel, Alert Bay

This boutique hotel stands out along the waterfront in Alert Bay. The Nimpkish Hotel is a bright blue historic building with a big deck and lots of windows for great views of the Alert Bay Harbour. With only nine rooms and breakfast included, you’ll feel like you’re staying at a B&B, not a hotel. Check prices.

The Nimpkish Hotel in Alert Bay, BC as seen from the water
The Nimpkish Hotel as seen from the water

Humpback Inn, Port McNeill

The Humpback Inn in Port McNeill is a newly refurbished motel with a cute retro vibe. It’s right by the water and an easy walk to everything including whale and bear watching tours. Friends stayed her and loved it. Check prices.

Cape Scott Provincial Park

If you want to get away from it all, you can’t beat a hike-in campsite at Cape Scott Provincial Park. The sea stacks at San Josef Bay are great if you want a short hike, but for the real experience, make the full-day trek out to Nel’s Bight for the full white sand beach experience. The best part: no reservations required! (Read my guide to Cape Scott to plan your trip.)

Now you have all the info you need to head to northern Vancouver Island. What is your favourite thing to do on north Vancouver Island? Tell me in the comments. And as always, send me your questions as I’m happy to help answer them.

More Things to do on Vancouver Island

Hiking Guides for Vancouver Island

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