Northern Vancouver Island is off the beaten path so it feels a bit wilder: Tiny towns, lush rainforest, great hiking, camping and kayaking, and SO MUCH WILDLIFE. North Vancouver Island is the place to go if you want to see whales, bears, sea lions, porpoises, and more.

I’ve made nine trips to Northern Vancouver Island over the years, and each time I discover another incredible place. (A of the trips were research for my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.) I haven’t seen everything there is to see on the north end of the Island yet, but believe me… I’m trying!

In this guide, I’ll give you all my insider info on the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island as well as where to stay and where to eat.

Hey there: Thanks so much to At the Water’s Edge Adventures, BC Ferries, and Vancouver Island North Tourism for hosting me on a trip in 2020. All the other trips were at my own expense and all opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Northern Vancouver Island Basics

Location

Northern Vancouver Island is located… on the north end of Vancouver Island. 😉  (Thanks Captain Obvious!)

Since most of Vancouver Island’s population is clustered around the southern tip, the definition of which part of Vancouver Island is the northern part can get pretty broad. (Some people think it’s anything north of Nanaimo which isn’t even half way up the island!)

In general, there is no dispute that anything north of the town of Campbell River is considered Northern Vancouver Island. So that’s the region I’m going to focus on in this post. 

How to Get to North Vancouver Island

The easiest way to get to Northern Vancouver Island is by car. Highway 19, also known as the Island Highway, runs the length of Vancouver Island from Nanaimo in the south all the way past Campbell River to Port Hardy in the north.

If you’re coming from the mainland, you can take a BC ferry from the Vancouver area to Nanaimo, then drive north from there. The drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy takes about 4 hours.

It’s also possible to fly to north Vancouver Island via charter flights between Vancouver and Port Hardy. You can also take a bus between Campbell River and Port Hardy.

It’s easiest to get around by car. The best place to rent a car is in Nanaimo. But you can also rent cars in Port Hardy. I use Discover Cars since it lets you compare prices from lots of different companies so you can be sure you are getting the best deal.

North Vancouver Island Weather

Northern Vancouver Island has a wet maritime climate. The area gets a LOT of rain between October and March. The driest months are July and August, but May, June, and early September can be nice too.

While it’s not a warm place, it never gets that cold either. In July and August, the average temperature is between 10 and 18C (50-64F). Between November and March, the average temperature is between 1 and 8C (34-46F).

In general, expect rain and chilly weather at any time of year. But you could also luck out. I’ve had several trips with good weather including in 2020 during my hike to Cape Scott and a kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait where we saw temperatures up to 25C (77F)!

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Indigenous Context

Northern Vancouver Island has been home to several indigenous groups since time immemorial and they still live here today.

The Kwakwaka’wakw have traditional territory on the entire northern end of Vancouver Island, extending into the islands of the Johnstone Strait and the adjoining mainland.

On the west coast of Vancouver Island, they share their territory with the Quatsino people.

Further south near Sayward, Kwakwaka’wakw territory overlaps with the We Wai Kai Nation, the K’omoks Nation, and the We Wai Kum Nation.

Consider supporting Indigenous-owned businesses on your trip to northern Vancouver Island. I’ve got several recommendations in this post.

North Vancouver Island Map

I made a custom google map for you that includes everything I mention in this post. Enjoy! This map is all you’ll need if you plan to stick to the paved roads and major towns.

However, if you are venturing off onto any of the gravel roads, I highly recommend you bring a copy of the Vancouver Island BC Backroad Map Book so you don’t get lost. (There’s no cell service outside of the towns.) I also love the offline version of the Gaia GPS app for navigating backroads and hiking trails.

Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island

Northern Vancouver Island is a huge area, with lots of things to do. My list of things to do in North Vancouver Island is set out in geographic order, from south to north, in the order you could visit them if you were driving up the Island Highway from Campbell River towards Port Hardy. 

Visit Sayward and Kelsey Bay

The tiny logging-oriented village of Sayward has been around since the 1890s. Originally only accessed by boat, today it is connected by road to the Island Highway.

Drive the short spur road into town to visit the Cable Cookhouse, a local cafe that is completely wrapped in steel logging cables. Continue through town to the port of Kelsey Bay. The wharf here is a popular place to fish or to just enjoy the view across the Johnstone Strait. 

Learn About Logging Railways in Woss

Woss is another tiny logging town just off the Island Highway. It has the unique distinction of being home to the last operating logging railway in North America.

After a tragic accident in 2017, the railway finally closed after 100 years of operation. Today, you can drive into town to visit historic Steam Locomotive 113. A nearby pavilion has interpretive panels where you can learn about the history of railway logging.

There is currently talk of turning the 90 km-long railway into a biking and hiking trail, which would be amazing as it cuts through some real wilderness. 

Little Huson Caves

Despite being just 20 minutes from highway 19, it took me several visits to north Vancouver Island before I made it to Little Huson Caves. In fact, I didn’t even know they existed until a few years ago. There are tons of caves on Vancouver Island, but this is one of the easiest to visit.

Atluck Creek runs through an area of limestone that is easily eroded. That means that here the creek runs right through a huge cave! Take a short walk down a hill (with some stairs) to two different viewing platforms, one at the creek entrance to the cave, the other at the exit!

READ NEXT: Little Huson Caves Hiking Guide

Stroll the Boardwalk at Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove used to be the northern end of a telegraph line that stretched the length of Vancouver Island. It slowly changed from a telegraph station, into a fishing and cannery village, and today it is an eco-tourism hub. It’s definitely worth the detour off the highway – it’s really cute!

Stroll the wooden boardwalk past historic buildings to the Whale Museum or grab a drink at the cafe and soak up the views. Telegraph Cove is also a popular launching spot for fishing boats, whale watching, and kayaking tours.

Kayak with Whales in the Johnstone Strait

The Johnstone Strait off the coast of northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places in the world to see whales. Humpback whales migrate through all summer long and the area has a high concentration of orcas (killer whales). And one of the best ways to see whales is from a kayak.

I went on a life-changing kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait in 2020. We saw whales every day, visited Indigenous sites, saw tons of sea lions, seals, porpoises, and eagles, and visited some remote (and gorgeous) islands.

The most popular place to launch kayaks is from Telegraph Cove. You can rent kayaks or go on guided tours that last anywhere from an afternoon to a week.

I went with At the Water’s Edge Adventures who launch from a private beach next to Telegraph Cove. They are offering my readers 10% off any trip with them – just use code HAPPIESTOUTDOORS.

READ NEXT: My guide to Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

Visit Port McNeill

Port McNeill is the second largest town on Northern Vancouver Island. It’s a compact little town with shops, restaurants, and hotels. Wander along the seawall downtown for great views of the harbour.

Don’t miss the world’s largest burl at the east end of town. (Fun fact: Port McNeill is also home to another giant burl. It was the world’s largest burl until the current one was discovered in 2005. You can find the runner-up burl about 5 minutes east of town just off Highway 19.)

Take a Grizzly Bear Watching Tour

Taking a boat-based bear watching tour up Knight Inlet was definitely one of the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island. While Northern Vancouver Island has roads and settlements, the nearby mainland has only a few boat-in villages. The huge expanse of wilderness supports a healthy population of grizzly bears.

We watched a mother grizzly bear and her two nearly full-grown cubs explore the coastline in search of mussels and other food. Later, we switched to a smaller boat to cruise up a river estuary and spy on a huge male grizzly eating grass.

I did my tour with Sea Wolf Adventures, based in Port McNeill. They are a local indigenous-run company. Our guides (Sherry and Karissa) were knowledgeable and worked hard to make sure the boat was always in position to take the best photos. The food was great too! 

Go Whale Watching

With humpbacks migrating through every summer and a large resident orca (killer whale) population, northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places to see whales in BC.

Since I have been kayaking with whales and saw quite a few whales on my bear watching tour with Sea Wolf, I haven’t actually been on a whale watching tour on northern Vancouver Island.

But locals recommend Mackay Whale Watching out of Port McNeill. They are a small family-run company and have been running whale watching tours in the area for four decades. 

Ride the Eco-Conscious Island Aurora Ferry

BC Ferries runs the Island Aurora from Port McNeill to the nearby island communities of Alert Bay and Sointula on Malcolm Island. While the towns are definitely worth visiting (and info about them is below), the ferry ride alone is pretty fun.

This brand-new ferry was added to the BC Ferries fleet in 2020. It’s part of a move towards eco-consciousness and uses a hybrid engine. (It runs 20% on battery power, the remainder on diesel.)

Eventually, BC Ferries hopes to introduce a shore-based charging system so that the Island Aurora can run entirely on battery power. The hybrid system is much quieter than conventional engines, which is great for both passengers and the resident whales.

The views of Johnstone Strait from the ferry are spectacular, and with fairly low rates for both walk-on passengers and cars, it’s the cheapest way to get out on the water on northern Vancouver Island!

Pro tip: Take a day trip to both Alert Bay and Sointula on the same day using just one ticket to save money. You will need to take the ferry back to Port McNeill to switch between the two communities – just tell ferry staff you want to visit both.

Experience Indigenous Culture in Alert Bay

Alert Bay is a small community on Cormorant Island, just a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. About half of the island is a ‘Namgis First Nation reserve. The ‘Namgis are part of the larger Kwakwaka’wakw Nation. This is one of the best places to experience Indigenous culture in Canada.

I highly recommend a visit to the U’mista Cultural Centre to learn about their history and culture. This fabulous museum has a huge collection of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw dance masks and memorabilia used in cultural events like potlatches.

In the 1920s, potlaches were declared illegal and the government stole these ceremonial objects and gave them to museums around the world. The Kwakwaka’wakw have worked hard to bring these important cultural treasures back to their traditional territory and display them on their own terms. 

Alert Bay is also home to a forest of totem poles with over 30 poles spread around town. The world’s largest totem pole, at 173 feet tall (53m) also towers over the island.

If you want to go for a walk, the Alert Bay Ecological Park is a great option. Well-marked flat trails and boardwalks lead through an upland marsh fed by underground springs. It’s a great place for birdwatching.

You can also walk around the town and explore the historical buildings.

Visit Sointula and Malcolm Island

The village of Sointula on Malcolm Island has an interesting history. Finnish settlers founded the town in 1901 as a utopian collective society. In Finnish, Sointula means “place of harmony”.

Even though it is just across the water from Port McNeill, it has retained a lot of its unique character. Many older residents still speak Finnish and the cooperatively-run local store, the Sointula Coop, has been open for over 100 years. You can learn more about local history at the tiny Sointula Museum.

Today, the island is home to lots of artists and is a great place for hiking and biking.

If you have time, be sure to make the short drive out to Bere Point. The pebble beach there is a favourite spot for resident orcas to rub their bellies at high tide. A citizen science orca research team sets up tents near the viewpoint each year. Stop in to ask them about the most recent whale sightings.

Drive the Alice Lake Loop

If you are up for some backroads driving, take on the Alice Lake Loop. I haven’t had time for the 2.5-hour trip yet, but it’s high on my list. This mini-road trip visits some of northern Vancouver Island’s unique karst features, formed by centuries of water eroding rock.

Highlights include the Devil’s Bath, a water-filled sinkhole that connects to a river underground, and the Eternal Fountain, a waterfall that appears out of the side of a cliff, then disappears beneath your feet. Take a break in the town of Port Alice part-way along to have lunch and stroll along the ocean-front seawalk.

Visit Port Hardy

Port Hardy is the largest town on north Vancouver Island, its economic centre, and the jumping-off point for ferries to northern BC. It’s a good place to grab a meal, buy groceries, or shop for souvenirs.

Don’t miss the Book Nook and Drift, which share space with Cafe Guido on Market Street. Drift has really cute locally-made clothing and home goods and the Book Nook has a great selection of local books.

For the easiest eagle spotting around, go for a walk along the seawall. The resident eagles are sure to be flying overhead, foraging on the beach at low-tide, or calling out from their nests in the nearby treetops.

Although I haven’t had time to visit, I’ve also heard that the museum at the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre is great for rainy days, especially if you take a tour of the hatchery.

Another thing that’s on my list is visiting the nearby Kwagu’ł Nation community of Tsaxis (Fort Rupert) to visit Calvin Hunt‘s gallery of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw carvings.

Take the Inside Passage Ferry to Northern BC

Port Hardy is the departure point for the Inside Passage ferry to Northern BC. This epic all-day ferry cruises up the coast to Prince Rupert. Along the way, it passes spectacular scenery including picturesque islands, towering mountains, narrow inlets and tons of whales. On my trip we saw the best rainbows.

READ NEXT: Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC

Get Off the Beaten Path on Gravel Roads

If you venture off the paved Island Highway, you’ll be heading further off the beaten path than most tourists who visit north Vancouver Island. The remote communities of Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, Quatsino, and Holberg are small resource-based towns, focused on fishing and forestry with a growing community of summer residents.

But if you are into nature, the surrounding areas are worth investigating too. You’ll find remote beaches, deserted campgrounds, hiking trails, and incredible fishing.

Use the Vancouver Island North Recreation map to get ideas on where to go. You can drive sometimes rough gravel roads to Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, and Holberg, but you’ll need a boat to get to Quatsino.

If you make the drive, bring a map or use the Gaia GPS app since there is no cell service. Pack a spare tire, and be prepared to pull over for speeding logging trucks. Most roads go through the town of Holberg. If it’s open, be sure to stop at the Scarlet Ibis. It’s Vancouver Island’s most remote pub.

Visit Winter Harbour

Winter Harbour is a tiny town that has been around since the 1890s. It began as a fishing village but diversified to become a logging town as well by the 1950s. When the logging operation shut down in 2017, the town’s population dropped to just two year-round residents.

However, in the summer the old loggers shacks fill up with vacationers going salmon fishing or exploring the labrynith of inlets. Be sure to stop at the Outpost General Store, then walk the unique waterfront boardwalk which connects homes and businesses along the inlet and predates the road network.

If you’re up for adventure, drive the backroads to hike to Grant Bay. The short trail leads to what I think is one of the most beautiful remote sandy beaches on Northern Vancouver Island. To get there, take West Main from Winter Harbour Road, then follow it to its end.

Hike, Canoe, Camp, and Surf at Raft Cove Provincial Park

Remote Raft Cove Provincial Park is located on the wild west coast of Northern Vancouver Island. There are two ways to get there, but both start with a long drive on logging roads.

You can canoe 5 km down the Macjack River to its mouth from a put-in off Topknot Main FSR accessed from Winter Harbour. Or you can make a tough and muddy 3 km hike to the beach from a trailhead on Ronning Main FSR access from Holberg.

Once you arrive, the sand stretches for a kilometres and waves pound in from the Pacific Ocean. It’s a popular spot for surfers. There is a great backcountry campground on the peninsula at the mouth of the Macjack River.

Get more info on visiting Raft Cove in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Visit Ronnings Garden

Ronning’s Garden is one of the most unique places to visit on Northern Vancouver Island. Norwegian settler Bernt Ronning built a homestead on the wagon road between Holberg and Cape Scott around 1910. He cleared the bush to create an impressive garden that spanned nearly 5 acres.

He died in 1963 and the rainforest started to reclaim the garden. But in the last few decades new owners have worked on restoring the garden. Today you can walk into the garden to see huge monkey puzzle trees and many other interesting plants from around the world.

Find Ronnings Garden just off San Josef Main on the way to Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Hike and Camp at Cape Scott Provincial Park

Cape Scott Provincial Park sits at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. It’s a wild and beautiful place of white sand beaches, dense rainforest, incredible wildlife, and settler history.

The only way to explore the park is by day hiking or backpacking in to one of the remote backcountry campgrounds. The park has three main trails: the easy and flat day-hike to San Josef Bay, the moderate 3-day backpacking trip to Cape Scott Lighthouse, and the challenging 6-day North Coast Trail. Cape Scott is one of my favourite places and I’ve hiked into the park six times.

Get more info on visiting Cape Scott Provincial Park in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Get My Book…

Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
• Advice for extending your trip
• Points of cultural and natural history

Get the book

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide

READ NEXT: North Coast Trail Guide

Where to Eat on North Vancouver Island

Since many of the communities on northern Vancouver Island are small, you may have to do a bit of advance planning when it comes to where to eat. Most of the towns have at least one restaurant, pub, cafe, or general store but a few do not.

There are also a few restaurants that are worth planning for. Here are my picks for the best restaurants on north Vancouver Island.

Cafe Guido

This adorable hipster coffee shop in Port Hardy wouldn’t be out of place in a big city. Cafe Guido has sandwiches, baked goods, and of course coffee. They share space with the Book Nook and Drift, so allow time for browsing.

Duchess’ Bannock and Desserts

If you’re in Alert Bay, don’t miss trying Duchess’ Bannock. If you’ve never had bannock before, it’s a traditional indigenous fried bread. Duchess’ bannock was some of the best I have ever tasted.

If you have a sweet tooth, order the bannock and berries instead of just the plain bannock. It comes covered in three kinds of berries, berry sauce, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and sprinkles. Sooo good. (Just make sure you share it with someone – it’s huge!)

ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ Pub

The ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ pub at the newly refurbished Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy serve local, Indigenous-inspired west coast cuisine. (Fun fact: in Kwakwaka’wakw, ha’me‘ means food and nax’id’ means drink.)

We’ve eaten there a few times. My husband was really impressed with their salmon burger… which was served on bannock. 

Where to Stay on North Vancouver Island

With campgrounds, B&Bs, and lodges scattered across northern Vancouver Island, it’s easy to find a place to stay. Here are a few of my favourites:

Bere Point Campground, Malcolm Island

I haven’t actually camped here, but it’s high on my list after visiting for the day in 2020. Located next to the famous whale rubbing beach on Malcolm Island, it has incredible campsites, many of which are right on the ocean. On my visit, campers were trading stories of their many whale sightings! Book in advance as it is popular.

Telegraph Cove Resort, Telegraph Cove

We stayed in the Telegraph Cove Lodge building at the Telegraph Cove Resort before our Johnstone Strait kayaking trip. It has great views of the cove. You can also stay in their collection of historic homes right on the boardwalk – they are super cute! Check prices.

Kwa’lilas Hotel, Port Hardy

I spent three nights at the Indigenous-run Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy on my 2020 visit to northern Vancouver Island. It’s completely renovated with gorgeous First Nations art in every room. Definitely one of the more upscale places to stay on northern Vancouver Island (without being expensive or pretentious). Check prices.

The Quarterdeck Inn, Port Hardy

We stayed at harbour-front Quarterdeck Inn in Port Hardy in 2021. It has comfortable rooms and is right on the water. It’s the best place to stay if you are hiking the North Coast Trail since it is right next to the water taxi dock. (We stayed here the night before our 2021 NCT hike.) Check prices.

Nimpkish Hotel, Alert Bay

This boutique hotel stands out along the waterfront in Alert Bay. The Nimpkish Hotel is a bright blue historic building with a big deck and lots of windows for great views of the Alert Bay Harbour. With only nine rooms and breakfast included, you’ll feel like you’re staying at a B&B, not a hotel. Check prices.

Humpback Inn, Port McNeill

The Humpback Inn in Port McNeill is a newly refurbished motel with a cute retro vibe. It’s right by the water and an easy walk to everything including whale and bear watching tours. Friends stayed her and loved it. Check prices.

Cape Scott Provincial Park

If you want to get away from it all, you can’t beat a hike-in campsite at Cape Scott Provincial Park. The sea stacks at San Josef Bay are great if you want a short hike, but for the real experience, make the full-day trek out to Nel’s Bight for the full white sand beach experience. The best part: no reservations required! (Read my guide to Cape Scott to plan your trip.)

Now you have all the info you need to head to northern Vancouver Island. What is your favourite thing to do on north Vancouver Island? Tell me in the comments. And as always, send me your questions as I’m happy to help answer them.

More Things to do on Vancouver Island

• Little Huson Caves on Vancouver Island
• Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know
• The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island

Hiking Guides for Vancouver Island

• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide

The post Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Before this trip, I thought I knew what the west coast was all about. But seeing it from the water brought on a completely different perspective. I spent five days camping on tiny islands. Whales surfaced and exhale meters away from me. I paddled through narrow passages with water so clear, looking down to the bottom was like looking into an aquarium, complete with starfish, sea anemones, and fish. Getting out of the boat, I explored indigenous village sites, dating back innumerable years. I ate amazing fresh food that I didn’t have to cook. Between my phone, SLR, Go Pro, and my husband’s drone I took thousands of videos and photos, hoping desperately to capture the magic of this amazing place. 

I went into this experience as a beginner (and honestly nervous) kayaker, but I left feeling as if I’d visited a truly special area. In this post, I’ll give you even more reasons to plan a kayaking trip to the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago. And I’ll also give you all the info you need to make it happen. (I’ve also got a sweet discount code for you if you want to book your own trip. Scroll down for that.)

Hey there: Thanks so much to At the Water’s Edge Adventures, BC Ferries, and Vancouver Island North Tourism for hosting me on this trip. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Where is the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago?

The Johnstone Strait is a narrow body of water separating the northern part of Vancouver Island from mainland British Columbia. Sandwiched between the strait and the mainland are hundreds of islands. Some are tiny (really just a rock with a few trees), while others are huge. You’ll find the Broughton Archipelago at the east end of the area near the mouth of Knight Inlet and the entrance to Queen Charlotte Strait. Protected as a Provincial Marine Park, this group of islands and islets is very popular with kayakers.

Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago Kayaking Map

I made a custom Google map of the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago area for you. It has all the places I will talk about in this post.

How to Get to the Johnstone Strait

Most kayaking trips to the Johnstone Strait and Broughton archipelago start from Telegraph Cove on northern Vancouver Island since it is the closest kayak launch site. Telegraph Cove is a small resort community just south of the town of Port McNeill. To get there from the mainland, start by taking BC Ferries to Nanaimo. Next, drive the Island Highway north for 350km. The drive takes about 4 hours. (Plan to spend a few extra days in the area: there are so many other amazing things to do on North Vancouver Island.)

Where to Stay Before Your Johnstone Strait Kayak Trip

Since you will most likely be starting your kayak trips in the Johnstone Strait in the morning, it makes the most sense to stay in the area the night before your trip. We stayed at the Telegraph Cove Lodge. It’s a brand new building on the slope above Telegraph Cove. They also have historic cottages to rent right on the water, as well as a campground. You can also stay a little bit further away in Port McNeill. On a previous trip, we spent a few nights at the Black Bear Resort. I’ve also heard the Humpback Inn is nice.

When to go Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

There are two factors to consider when picking dates for your kayaking trip to the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago: weather and wildlife. With a wet marine climate, the area gets a LOT of rain in the winter. The driest months are July and August, but May, June, and September can also be nice. If you want to see orcas, plan a trip between the end of July and early September. Humpback whales migrate through the area from May until October so you will likely see them all summer long.

How Many Days to Spend Kayaking in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait

The amount of time you spend kayaking in the Johnstone Strait area is totally personal preference. However, plan to spend at least three days. That will be enough time to explore a few different areas and hopefully, you’ll be in the area long enough to see some whales.

My guides from At the Water’s Edge Adventures said their 5-day tours are really popular, and that’s how long my trip was. It was the perfect amount of time to experience a little bit of everything in the region.

If you want to paddle the more remote (and reportedly gorgeous) northern Broughton islands, give yourself more time as they are remote so it will take longer to get there and back again. Many tour companies offer 7-day trips that penetrate deeper into the archipelago. I’m already dreaming of coming back and doing a 7-day trip further into the Broughtons.

From talking to paddler friends of mine and to other groups we met on our trip, 10+ day expeditions in the area are common. Many groups don’t plan an itinerary. Instead, they wait to see what the weather has in store for them or follow the whales as they migrate through the strait.

How Difficult is Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait?

Kayaking does require physical strength and stamina. But if you’re in OK shape kayaking in the Johnstone Strait can definitely be beginner-friendly since it’s really low-impact. On my trip, we typically spent a few hours on the water in the morning, had a break for lunch for an hour or so, then paddled another couple of hours in the afternoon. I felt like I was getting a bit of a workout, but I was never exhausted. 

However, it’s worth noting that beginners should definitely go with a guide. The weather, tides, and currents can make things dangerous if you aren’t careful. We were really happy to have guides on our trip as they made sure we always paddled in the calmest conditions. (Scroll down for more of my thoughts on my you should hire a guide.)

How Much Does a Kayaking Trip in the Johnstone Strait Cost?

How much your Johnstone Strait kayaking trip will cost depends on how many days you go for and whether you go on a guided tour or go self-guided. There are no fees for camping or kayaking in the Broughton Archipelago or Johnstone Strait so your only costs will be food, gear rentals, and guides.

Renting Gear

Kayak outfitters in Telegraph Cove like At the Water’s Edge Adventures rent sea kayaks starting at $90/day for a single kayak and $150/day for a double and include a PFD (life jacket), spray skirt and other safety gear. Prices get cheaper the more days you book. You can also rent gear like waterproof paddling pants and jackets and drybags. It’s also possible to rent camping gear such as tents, sleeping bags, and stoves as well as emergency gear like a VHF marine radio or satellite messenger.

Guided Tours

Unless you are heading to the Johnstone Strait with experienced friends who know the area well, I think guides are well worth your money. Real talk: guided kayak tours aren’t cheap! Tours start at about $900/person for a three-day tour. You can also work with the guides to customize your tour. But I think having a guide is absolutely worth the money. (Read more about the choice to go guided or not below.)

Should You Go on a Guided Kayaking Trip in the Johnstone Strait?

If you are an experienced paddler, comfortable with self-rescue, navigation, and understanding currents and tides, you can definitely kayak in the Johnstone Strait without a guide. It’s easy to rent gear from local outfitters and plan your own trip. 

However… I think going with a guided tour is the way to do. Yes, it costs more. But I think it’s totally worth it.

On a guided tour you’ll be in a small group of 4-12 clients with 1 or 2 guides. The guides will do all the hard work for you including meal planning and cooking, providing all the camping gear, and outfitting you with paddling pants, jacket, and dry bags.

As an experienced backcountry camper, I found the food and gear to be a nice bonus and definitely a time saver. (And the food was incredible! We had fresh fruit and vegetables every day and appetizers every night before dinner. Dinners were things like tacos, pad thai, curry, and pasta. For lunch, we had sandwiches, bagels, and salads. Definitely, the best food I’ve ever eaten in the backcountry.)

But.. the real benefit of the guides for me was their local expertise and kayaking experience. Of course, this means a safer trip. But I also found that it made for a way more enjoyable trip. Our guides were able to consult the weather, tides, and currents each day to plan our route to avoid rough water and strenuous paddling. When the weather forecast changed and heavy fog became a factor, they altered our itinerary to avoid it, while maximizing whale sightings at the same time.

They knew from experience where the best campsites were, where to find indigenous village sites, clam gardens, and middens, and which narrow passageways between islands were the prettiest to paddle. Our guides also knew where to find the nicest campsites, the best lunch spots, and the best coves to pull over and get out of the kayaks for an emergency pee break. They also had one ear to their VHF radio all the time to listen for chatter about where to see orcas and humpback whales.

I really appreciated paddling with Josh and Alicia from At the Water’s Edge Adventures. To be honest, I was nervous about kayaking across big sections of open ocean and hitting rough weather. Josh and Alicia understood that and were so patient with me. They detailed our route plan every day to show us how we would avoid fast currents and high winds. And on the days we crossed the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound, one of them would stick close by my boat to make sure I felt comfortable, chatting with me the whole way to distract me from the waves.

I definitely recommend a kayaking trip with At the Water’s Edge Adventures. If you want to save some $$ on a Johnstone Strait kayak trip, I can help: Use code “HAPPIESTOUTDOORS” when you book with At the Water’s Edge Adventures to get 10% off.

How to Kayak with Whales in the Johnstone Strait

Although there is no guarantee that you will see whales while kayaking in the Johnstone Strait… it’s pretty likely. It’s one of the best places in the world to kayak with orcas! The three keys to seeing whales are timing, location, and a radio.

Best Time to See Whales in the Johnstone Strait

You can see humpback whales all summer, but the best time to see orcas in the Johnstone Strait is between the end of July and early September. At that time of year, the salmon are returning to rivers to spawn and the orcas come into the area to feed on them.

Where to See Whales in the Johnstone Strait 

To increase your chances of kayaking with whales, plan to spend time paddling in the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound. The whales like the deeper waters there. You are much less likely to see whales in the Broughton Archipelago or in any of the other small island groups. Robson Bight Ecological Reserve at the east end of Johnstone Strait provides important protection for orca habitat and is a popular spot for whale-watching boats. The orcas like to rub their bellies on the smooth river stones on the beaches in the reserve.  (They also do this on Malcolm Island near Port McNeill.) On my kayaking trip, we camped at Kaikash Creek, a few kilometres west of Robson Bight, and were treated to orcas swimming just off our beach – likely on their way to the ecological reserve and its rubbing beaches.

Listen to the Marine Radio to Know to Where to Find Whales

The last factor that will help you see whales is a marine VHF radio. Local boaters and whale watching companies keep up a constant chatter on the radio to report whale sightings. On our trip, our guides always had one ear to the radio and altered our planned route a few times to make sure we could see both orcas and humpbacks. Kayaking with killer whales is definitely something I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

What Species of Whales Live in the Johnstone Strait

There are two populations of orcas (also known as killer whales) in the Johnstone Strait area: the northern residents and the transients. There are about 300 northern residents, who live in small family groups called pods. The northern residents range up and down the coast, but are most commonly found in the Johnstone Strait and in nearby Blackfish Sound. We saw a few different groups of northern residents on our trip. 

Transient orcas look similar to residents but are genetically distinct. Unlike the salmon-eating residents, transient orcas are true killers, feasting on seals, sea lions, and dolphins. The transients don’t form pods and have a much less predictable migration pattern, so they are harder to spot. On my trip, we were lucky enough to spot three transients across Blackfish Sound.

Humpback whales also live in the Johnstone Strait between May and September. They migrate north from Hawaii and Mexico to summer feeding grounds along BC’s north coast and Alaska. Unlike orcas, they don’t have teeth. Instead, they are filter feeders, straining huge mouthfuls of crustaceans and small fish through their baleen. They eat up to 3000lbs of food per day!

While less common, grey whales and minke whales are also sometimes spotted in the Johnstone Strait area.

What Other Wildlife Can You See in the Johnstone Strait

While whales are the biggest reason why people choose to kayak in the Johnstone Strait, I would definitely encourage you to think of them as a bonus and not as the main event. There are SO many other animals to see. And honestly while on my trip the whale encounters were definitely magical, many of the other animals will stick in my memory forever too.

We spent ages watching seals tumble through the water just offshore from our camps, curiously peering up at us. A huge bull sea lion cruised by, just feet away from our kayaks one afternoon, surprising us as he emerged suddenly from the depths. A pod of porpoises splashed by one afternoon. Salmon leapt out of the water seemingly just for the joy of, expending precious energy on their journey back to their spawning rivers.

Eagles perched obligingly on cedar branches, posing for our cameras like bad-ass models. An inquisitive mink slunk around one of our campsites, and later we discovered its nearby den. (A member of my group spotted her two kits, but I wasn’t lucky enough to see them.)

Waterbirds rafted up around us or flew overhead. Noisy belted kingfishers were our constant companion. We spotted rhinoceros auklets, a relative of the puffin. We also saw some endangered marbled murrelets. These small brown and white birds nest high in the branches of old-growth trees near the ocean. As the old-growth disappears, so do the marbled murrelets. 

What Indigenous Sites Can You Visit in the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago

The Johnstone Strait, Broughton Archipelago, and surrounding area are the traditional territory of the ‘Namgis, Mamalilikulla, and Kwikwasut’inuxw Haxwa’mis people. They belong to the broader Kwakwaka’wakw group and have inhabited the area since time immemorial. Today they live in a few small villages on Vancouver Island, the neighbouring mainland, and a few other islands. But signs of their widespread habitation are everywhere if you know where to look. 

On my trip, our guides took us to visit a former village site on Mound Island. We saw the foundations of at least a dozen houses. The forest featured several culturally modified trees, stripped of cedar bark for basketry and other uses. The beach we landed on was actually a gigantic shell midden, resulting from hundreds of years of use. We also saw the remains of a clam garden, a raised terrace visible at low tide that expanded the natural area where clams like to live. 

Our guides also took us to see a pictograph on a cliff on Berry Island in Mamlilikulla territory. The pictograph is hundreds of years old and very fragile. Do not touch it as the oils from your hands could damage it. Next to the pictograph is an indention in the rock called the Chief’s Bath. According to indigenous oral history, the indentation fills at high tide and the chief would bath in it… if his subjects placed warmed rocks from the fire into it first.

I’ve labelled both Mound Island and Berry Island on my map of the Johnstone Strait area (above) but I haven’t given the exact locations of the indigenous sites. I’ll let you discover them yourself. If you visit, be sure to tread lightly and give them the respect they deserve. If you want to learn more about indigenous culture in the Johnstone Strait area, visit the U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay. It’s an amazing museum with some beautiful exhibits.

What Other Cool Places Should You Check Out in the Johnstone Strait

I’ve spent a lot of time on remote parts of British Columbia’s coast (like Cape Scott, the Nootka Trail, and the West Coast Trail). But I was still surprised at how stunning the coastline is in the Johnstone Strait area. In particular, weaving through all the little narrow passageways between tiny islands was so gorgeous. Each little hidden bay and inlet was like a new treasure to uncover. The water is crystal clear in places, so you can see all the starfish, anemones, and sea cucumbers on the bottom. I also loved watching the long strands of bull kelp wave in the water.  Some of my favourite spots for that type of paddling were the Plumper Islands, the southern Broughton Archipelago, and the bays on the north side of Hanson Island. 

We also stopped for lunch at a place called Red Cove where the rocks were covered in fossils. Just walking around, it was easy to spot ammonite and trilobite fossils from thousands of years ago!

How to See Bioluminescence in the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago

One of the most magical parts of my trip was paddling at night through sparkly bioluminescence. But what exactly is bioluminescence? Basically, it’s flashes of light that plankton or algae known as dinoflagellates emit. It’s only visible when it’s really dark out. When something disturbs the plankton, they emit a small flash of bright light.

You can “trigger” the bioluminescence by trailing your hands in the water, splashing, or simply dipping your paddle in. But my favourite way to water the bioluminescence was to paddle in close to a rocky cliff. There, the barnacles feed on the plankton, and the plankton flash as they get eaten. It looks a bit like the barnacles are having their own fireworks show just under the water. 

The best places to see bioluminescence are in small bays or coves that are calm and sheltered from wind and waves. You need to go at night when it’s fully dark out, and ideally when the moon isn’t too bright. On the last night of our trip, our guide led us on a really memorable night paddle to see the bioluminescence in a cove near our camp. It’s pretty hard to take photos or video of the bioluminescence from a moving kayak, so you’ll just have to take my word for it that it was awesome. Definitely recommended! 

What is the Weather Like in the Johnstone Strait

Northern Vancouver is notorious for rain, fog, and stormy weather. Thankfully that reputation is mostly due to their winter weather, but definitely expect some rain on any trip. July and August see the least rain, but May, June, and September can be drier too.

With a marine climate, the Johnstone Strait is not the world’s warmest place. In the summer, average temperatures are between 10 and 18C (50-64F). However, if you’re lucky like me, you might even get some warm weather. On my trip, we had highs up to 25C (77F) and the guides said it was one of the warmest trips they could remember.

The main weather factor for a Johnstone Strait kayaking trip will be the winds. Typically, mornings are calm with maybe a bit of fog. But in the afternoons the wind whips up, funnelling through the narrow Johnstone Strait. Having a guide along to plan the route and avoid the full force of the winds was one of the things I really appreciated about my trip.

What to Bring on a Johnstone Strait Kayaking Trip

If you go on a guided kayak tour in Johnstone Strait, the tour company will provide most of what you will need including kayaks, PFDs, safety gear, camping gear, food, and drinking water. The company I used (At the Water’s Edge Adventures) even gave us chairs and cots! (Omg so comfortable – now I want to buy camping cots.) They will give you a couple of dry bags to store your personal clothing and gear. Here’s my recommended list of things to bring if you take a guided kayak tour. Where possible, I’ve added links to stuff I actually brought.

Paddling Gear

• neoprene paddling booties (You’ll be getting in and out of the kayaks in shallow water so these are a must and much more comfortable than sandals or sneakers when wet.)
• quick dry underwear and sports bra
• synthetic hiking pants, shorts or tights to wear under paddling pants (x2)
• quick dry long-sleeve shirt for sun protection (x2)
• fleece jacket
• sunhat and sunglasses
• sunscreen
• camera and/or Go Pro
• Phone tether (I used this stretchy cord to attach my phone to my life jacket zipper so it would be impossible to drop but I could still take photos.)

Camp Gear

• warm, quick-drying, and comfortable non-cotton clothes
• rain jacket and pants
• thermal long underwear for sleeping in
• cozy socks and a toque for nighttime
• running shoes
• lightweight puffy jacket
• headlamp
• toiletries
• book or eReader (See my picks for the best Canadian Adventure Books including The Killer Whale Who Changed the World. It’s about the changing human relationship with orcas.)

If you go self-guided, you’ll need to bring your own camping gear, cooking gear, and food. (See my backpacking gear checklist for a rundown on what you will need – it’s basically the same stuff.) You will also need to pack drinking water for your entire trip as there are very few reliable places to get fresh water on the islands.

Where to Camp in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait

Established/Formal Campsites

The Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago areas have very few formal campsites. If you want to go camping in the Broughton Archipelago, there are campsites with basic pit toilets at Owl Island and Leone Island, but I didn’t visit them so I can’t tell you what they are like. There are also two BC Recreation Sites on the Vancouver Island side of Johnstone Strait east of Telegraph Cove: Blinkhorn Peninsula and Kaikash Creek. They both have outhouses and campsites. We stayed at Kaikash Creek on our first night and had a once-in-a-lifetime visit from a pod of orcas just off our beach. Magic! We also had lunch at Blinkhorn Peninsula on our last day. There is a great viewpoint from near the navigation light, but the campsites are set back into the beach behind the peninsula.

Informal Campsites

You can also find tons of informal campsites everywhere in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait. There are large pockets of private land and indigenous land. So you need to check before you camp to make sure it’s allowed. As well, camping in some areas can be tough as the beaches are steep or disappear at high tide and flat ground for tents can be hard to find. The informal campsites don’t have toilets so you will need to be prepared to use your best Leave No Trace bathroom etiquette. 

Private Base Camps

Some guiding companies also have established base camps that only their clients can use. If you’re looking for a glamping experience, you could book with one of those companies. The company I went with doesn’t have a base camp. Instead, they let the weather, currents, and wildlife dictate their schedule. Their guides know about all kinds of hidden campsites throughout the area, so they can adjust their route on the fly. That lets them explore a bigger area, instead of having to paddle back to the same base camp every afternoon. And as a backpacker, the experience of having someone else cook my food and a chair to sit on while I ate it already felt like glamping, so I was glad I didn’t do a base camp experience and get tied down to one area.

Where I Camped

On our trip, we stayed at Kaikash Creek Recreation Site on Vancouver Island, at Freshwater Bay on Swanson Island, and at a small cove on Hanson Island. We had hoped to stay on Flower Island, which is just offshore from Freshwater Bay, but it was full. If you can stay at Flower Island, do it. It has an amazing view of Blackfish Sound and humpbacks constantly cruised right by the shoreline!

I had a life-changing and amazing time kayaking in the Johnstone Strait. I plan to return in the next few years to do a longer trip and explore more of the northern Broughton Archipelago. (And of course, spend some time in the Johnstone Strait to hang out with the whales.) This post should have everything you need to plan your own Johnstone Strait kayaking trip. If you have any questions, as always, leave them in the comments as I’d love to help. (And don’t forget to use code “HAPPIESTOUTDOORS” when you book with At the Water’s Edge Adventures to get 10% off.)

MORE posts I think you’d like:

• Things to do on North Vancouver Island
• Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit: Paddling in British Columbia
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island
• Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide
• Sunshine on the Edge of the World: Nootka Trail Trip Report

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